Brest, France

 

Brest is a French commune, capital of the arrondissement of the Finistère department in the Brittany region. It is an important port, the second military port in France after Toulon, located at the western end of Brittany.

With its 140,064 inhabitants (2017), Brest is the 25th most populous municipality in France. With a metropolis of 209,722 inhabitants (2017), it represents the first agglomeration in western Brittany and the second in the Brittany region after Rennes. Although Brest, also called the city of Ponant, is the most populous city in Finistère, the department prefecture is Quimper.

In the Middle Ages, the history of Brest merges with the history of its castle. Then Richelieu made it a military port. Brest will develop around its arsenal, until the second half of the twentieth century. Strongly marked by bombardments during the Second World War, Brest saw its historic center almost entirely renewed during Reconstruction. At the end of the twentieth and the beginning of the twenty-first century, the deindustrialisation of the city was accompanied by the development of the tertiary sector. Brest is labeled City of Art and History.

Brest is today a major university town with more than 29,000 students. Its university is multidisciplinary and notably includes a faculty of medicine. In addition, Brest and its country have several grandes écoles: engineering schools (ESIAB, IMT Atlantique, ENSTA Bretagne, ENIB and ISEN), the Brest Business School, the EURO-Institut d'Actuariat EURIA, Brest is also an important research center, focused on the sea, and notably hosts the head office and the largest of the Ifremer centers, CEDRE, SHOM as well as the European University Institute of the Sea and the French Polar Institute. The Technopôle Brest-Iroise facilitates the implementation of these scientific and technical skills in the economic and industrial field.

Brest has always been very marked by its maritime past: the Marine Academy was founded there in 1752, the Charles de Gaulle aircraft carrier was built there, and every four years, in July, Brest hosts the great international celebration of the sea, boats and sailors. Brest also hosts the Maistrance school (initial training school for petty officers), the foam school at the Naval Instruction Center, and numerous nautical businesses within the Breton Sailing Valley.

 

Culture and sights

Buildings and museums
See also: List of monuments historiques in Brest (Finistère)

The Brest Fortress (French Château de Brest) above the Penfeld estuary offers a good overview of the roadstead and the naval port. One of the towers houses the Musée de la Marine (a branch of the Musée national de la Marine) with a collection on the history of the port and the Navy.
Océanopolis since 1990, an ocean-themed theme park with 42 seawater display aquariums of different sizes and a focus on the flora and fauna of the Brittany coast.
Various vestiges of Vauban's fortifications
In a medieval tower, the Tour Tanguy, on the right bank of the Penfeld Estuary, there is a small museum with models and historical documents on the appearance of the city of Brest before the Second World War.
The 1954 Pont de Recouvrance lift bridge over the Penfeld.
The submarine bunker built by the German occupiers between 1940 and 1944, which offered space for a total of 13 submarines.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts presents a small collection of European paintings from the 16th-21st. century from.
Church of St-Louis, originally from the 18th century, rebuilt between 1953 and 1958 after being destroyed in the war.

 

Regular events

Since 1992, the Fêtes maritimes de Brest has been held every four years in July, an international festival of the sea and sailors (Brest 92, Brest 96, Brest 2000, Brest 2004, etc.), including a show of international tall ships. In 2012, 715,000 people attended the event in and around the Rade de Brest.
The city's stage, Le Quartz, is known beyond the department's borders.
The short film festival Festival européen du film court de Brest takes place every autumn.
For several years now, the Astropolis festival has been attracting French and international electronic music stars to Brest (usually at the beginning of August).
Since 1891, Brest has been the turning point of the Paris-Brest-Paris cycle race (Brevet), held every four years, and the Paris-Brest-Paris cycle race (Audax), held every five years

 

Getting here

By plane
Brest Airport - Aéroport Brest-Bretagne (IATA: BES) - is the main airport in Brittany. There are Air France flights several times a day from the two Paris airports of Orly (ORY) and Charles-de-Gaulle (CDG). Other connections within France are offered by Chalair (Bordeaux several times a day, Caen once a day), Hop! (Lyon several times a day, Lille once a day) and Ryanair (Marseille daily). TUIfly flies from/to holiday areas on the Mediterranean (Malaga, Mallorca) and Marrakech. From the German-speaking countries you need a transfer connection, usually via Paris. The small airline Finist'air flies twice a day with a turboprop aircraft (Cessna 208) from Brest to the island of Ouessant and back.

The airport is about 11 km northeast of the city center. A shuttle bus (Navette) runs 1-2 times per hour from the airport to the Porte de Guipavas bus stop (journey time 10 minutes). There you can change to tram line A, which goes to the city center (including Place de Strasbourg and Liberté). The ticket costs €1.50 and entitles you to transfer to the tram and other bus routes (valid for one hour).

By train
The TGV high-speed train runs from Paris Montparnasse station to Brest (via Rennes) every 1-2 hours. The journey takes around 3½ hours. Coming from Germany or Switzerland, you have to change trains in Paris and also change the train station (from Gare du Nord or Est to Gare Montparnasse).

Rennes to Brest takes around 2 hours by TGV (not high-speed line) or 2h15-2h20 by Regional Express (TER; only during morning and afternoon/evening rush hours). Trains stop at St-Brieuc en route , partly also in Lamballe, Guingamp and Morlaix. There are seven TER trains a day from Quimper to Brest (journey time 1 hour 15 minutes), otherwise buses. Connections between Brest and Roscoff always require a change in Morlaix and take between 1:15 and 2 hours.

The train station (Gare de Brest) is at the east end of the city centre. Here you can change to the city bus lines 1, 3, 4 and 5. There are no luggage lockers in the train station.

By bus
The bus station (Gare routiére) is located in front of the station.

In the street
The national roads N12 (from Rennes/St Bieuc) and N165 (from Nantes/Lorient), which have been developed as expressways, end in Brest. For example, you can park for free at the Parc à chaines.

By boat
The cruise port is not far from the city center, you can reach it on foot or with a free shuttle bus.

 

Getting around

The public transport system of the city of Brest is called Bibus and is operated by Keolis Brest. It consists of a modern tram (tramway) with so far one line (A), which was inaugurated in 2012, a cable car (téléphérique, line C) and 29 bus lines, which are designated by numbers.

The Brest region can be reached by using the Penn-ar-Bed (Viaoo29) regional buses.

 

Climate

The climate of Brest is a temperate maritime climate influenced by the Gulf Stream. This climate is characterized by cool summers and mild winters. Frost is rare, while wind is almost constant. The city belongs to a climate zone of the Cfb type (according to Köppen and Geiger): warm temperate rainy climate (C), fully humid (f), warmest month below 22 °C, at least four months above 10 °C (b).

The annual mean temperature is 10.9 °C; January is the coldest month at 6.3 °C and August is the warmest at 16.3 °C. Annual rainfall is 1,109.4 mm; July is the driest month at 46.3 mm, while December has the highest rainfall at 140.2 mm.

 

History

At the site of today's Brest, from the end of the 3rd century, in Roman times, there was a fortified base that served to protect the coast and was called Gesocribate. In the 5th century, British tribes immigrated from England, after whom the country was named Brittany. Later a fort was built here to protect against Norman attacks. Along with Brittany, Brest also came under English suzerainty in the 12th century, but returned to French feudal rule in 1202.

With the beginning of modern times, the city experienced an upswing due to overseas trade. In 1593, Brest received city rights from King Henry IV. In 1631, Cardinal Richelieu made Brest a military port and had the naval arsenal for the Fleet du Ponant built there. In 1683 Vauban expanded the complex into a fortress. On June 18, 1686, a delegation from Siam arrived here to travel to Versailles to see King Louis XIV, an event that to this day is commemorated by the name of the city's main street, Rue de Siam. In 1749 the Brest "Bagno" (penitentiary) was set up, a labor camp on the site of the naval arsenal. It could accommodate up to 3700 convicts and existed until 1858. The main building of the Bagno, built in 1750/51 by the master builder Choquet de Lindu, with a façade 254 m long, was one of the characteristic buildings of old Brest before the Second World War. The inmates made up around 10% of the city's population and played a major role in Brest life. In addition to shipbuilding work, the prisoners also carried out earthworks in the harbor basin and on the canal from Nantes to Brest. In 1752 a naval academy was established in Brest. The naval arsenal was also known for its powerful cannon, which announced the opening and closing of the arsenal grounds daily – according to a controversial theory, this is where the French phrase tonnerre de Brest (mighty thunderstorm) derives from.

In 1789, the people of Brest were initially enthusiastic about the French Revolution. However, her sympathies were then increasingly with the Girondins and a federal state structure, which earned her the displeasure of the Jacobins, who sent 70 citizens to the guillotine. After the fall of Robespierre, the city was again administered by Girondins. However, the port soon lost its importance due to the continental blockade, trade lay idle and the result was an economic crisis that set the city back. Under Napoleon, the construction of the navigable Canal de Nantes à Brest was started, with which the naval blockade should be bypassed. With the industrialization one found again connection to the economic development, for example through the construction of the bridge over the Penfeld in 1856 or the construction of the Brest train station in 1865; the city was then 18 hours by train from Paris. The penitentiary was abandoned in 1858, and instead the inmates were shipped directly from Bordeaux to convict islands overseas.

During World War I, Brest was an important supply port for US troops in Europe in 1917/1918. In the post-war period, the port was constantly expanded, in 1930 the facilities of Plougastel were added. During the Second World War, the German Wehrmacht took Brest on June 19, 1940 and made it one of the most important bases on the Atlantic Wall, where the 1st U-Flotilla and a naval hospital were also stationed. In 1941/1942 the two battleships of the Scharnhorst class and the cruiser Prinz Eugen were also based here. A sea rescue squadron was also set up in Brest. To protect the submarines, a submarine bunker was built immediately in front of the former Ecole Navale, whose building now served as the headquarters of the submarine flotilla. It was 192 m wide, 333 m long and 17 m high. The ceiling thickness was 6.20 m.

 

In January 1944, Hitler designated all the important port cities in the West - including Brest - as "fortresses", which was primarily of a symbolic nature. In February 1944 OKW orders for the defense of fortresses ordered to fight "to the last man" and under no circumstances to surrender. After the Normandy landings, Brest was besieged by the Allies for 43 days in the Battle of Brittany (making it one of the longest besieged places) before the commander, Hermann-Bernhard Ramcke, surrendered.

The city was severely damaged by Allied fighting and bombing and had to be rebuilt from scratch according to the plans of Jean-Baptiste Mathon. In 1961 the reconstruction was essentially complete. Since little remains of the historic building fabric, Brest today gives the impression of a largely faceless planned city with concrete buildings. Economically one had to reorient oneself, since the importance as a naval port declined; instead, the service sector and modern industries as well as marine research experienced an upswing. The founding of the Université de Bretagne Occidentale in 1960 also contributed to its importance as an educational center.