La Gomera

The island of La Gomera is (after El Hierro) the second smallest of the seven main islands of the Canary Islands with a diameter of 25 km.

 

Places

There are 6 municipalities on the island, divided into numerous smaller and larger places

San Sebastián - capital of the island and ferry port
Agulo - winding town on the north coast
Alajero -
Playa de Santiago - seaside resort in the south
Hermigua - Green Valley in the North
Vallehermoso - district town in the north
Chipude - Small place on the plateau
El Cercado - pottery village in the interior of the island
Valle Gran Rey - tourist center in the south-west

Like the other Canary Islands, La Gomera is of volcanic origin, with volcanic activity on the Canary Islands developing from east to west. That is, La Gomera is historically younger than the eastern islands of Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria and Tenerife, but older than the western islands of La Palma and El Hierro. The country was probably settled between the 5th and 3rd centuries. v. by Berbers from North Africa. This is indicated by the original language of the Guanches (natives of the Canary Islands).

It is unclear whether Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans knew the archipelago, but various ancient writings repeatedly refer to an archipelago of the same name, often in connection with the legendary land of Atlantis. The islands are also referred to in numerous Arabic, Byzantine and European writings from the Middle Ages.

However, conquests only began at the beginning of the 15th century. Jean de Béthencourt, who had already taken Lanzarote and Fuerteventura on behalf of the Spanish crown, failed in 1404 when attempting to conquer La Gomera due to the massive resistance of the natives. At the second attempt at conquest, two of the then four Gomerian tribes submitted to him, but the other two tribes put up fierce resistance until the end of the century.

From 1447 the Peraza family was enfeoffed by the Spanish king with the "County of Gomera", from 1477 Hernán Peraza d. J. The population rebelled against his reign of terror in 1488 and murdered Hernán, after which his wife Beatriz de Bobadilla succeeded him. Christopher Columbus, who repeatedly landed on Gomera before his voyages to America, is said to have been in love with the beautiful Beatrice and for this reason repeatedly delayed his departure.

 

Language

Spanish. However, German is also spoken in almost all shops and restaurants. Many Germans live in Valle Gran Rey and San Sebastián in particular, and many shops are run by Germans. Sometimes English is also helpful.

La Gomera is also known for the whistled language El Silbo, which is spoken by some of the locals and is now a compulsory subject in all schools. It was probably created for communication from mountain to mountain and has also been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

 

Getting there

International airlines do not fly directly to La Gomera. The best way to get to the island is via Tenerife by ferry or speedboat. From Los Cristianos, two companies travel several times a day to San Sebastian on Gomera. The fastest is the Fred Olsen Express, which also operates the largest ships and is therefore certainly the best choice for potential seasickness candidates. An alternative to this is the Naviera Armas ferry, which opened in June 2006. Unfortunately, a ferry connection to Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey is no longer offered.

The small airport near Playa de Santiago is only served by Binter Canarias in regional air traffic from Gran Canaria and Tenerife North and not from Tenerife South.

 

Getting around

Unfortunately, there are only a few bus connections inland. An overview of lines and tariffs can be found at GuaguaGomera. The most convenient and mobile means of transport is certainly a rental car, which can be rented inexpensively from various providers on La Gomera. But hikes by bus or car stop are quite tedious and, in the long run, quite expensive with taxis.

 

Public holidays

The public holiday calendar is redefined every year by the individual autonomous regions of Spain. For example, if a public holiday falls on a Sunday, in some cases the following Monday or the preceding Friday is also designated as a public holiday.

Here are the public holidays that apply throughout the island:
Mon, Jan 1, 2024 Año Nuevo
Sat, Jan. 6, 2024 Los Reyes Epiphany: On this day, children in Spain receive their Christmas presents, which the Three Kings bring with them.
Tue, Mar 19 2024 San Jose
Maundy Thursday Jueves Santo
Good Friday Viernes Santo
Easter Sunday Pascua
Mon, May 1, 2023 Day of Trabajo
Tue, May 30, 2023 Día de las Islas Canarias Canary Islands Day
Whit Sunday Pentecostés
Corpus Christi
Ascension of Christ Ascension del Señor
Tue, Jul 25, 2023 Santiago Apostle Apostle James
Tue, Aug 15, 2023 Asunción Maria Himmelfahrt
Thu, Oct. 12, 2023 Día de la Hispanidad Day of the Discovery of America
Wed Nov 1, 2023 Todos los Santos All Saints' Day
Wed, Dec 6, 2023 Día de la Constitución Constitution Day
Fri, Dec 8, 2023 Immaculada Concepción Maria Immaculate Conception
Mon 25 Dec 2023 Navidad Christmas

 

Sights

Los Organos - This is an exposed lava vent. The typical hexagonal structure was created by cracks as the lava cooled.
Garajonay National Park - Evergreen cloud forest with a unique atmosphere, has been protected as a national park since 1981 and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986.
El Chorro Waterfall - not a particularly long waterfall but the hike is great and 200 meters still looks spectacular.
Alto de Garajonay mountain - the view is not to be missed. On a good day you can see as far as Tenerife.

 

What to do

Hike
La Gomera is a paradise for hikers!

A good starting point is the climatically very balanced Valle Gran Rey (the most touristically developed place on La Gomera). From there you can make some nice hikes, and you can get to the mountains relatively quickly by bus, rental car or taxi. However, it is also advisable to choose the north as a starting point for hikes for a few days (e.g. Hermigua, Agulo, Vallehermoso).

The equipment absolutely includes hiking shoes, warm clothes and rain protection. When the weather is bad, it can get really cold in the mountains! It is also advisable to take a mobile phone with you.

Some interesting hikes:
San Sebastian - Lomo Fragoso - San Sebastian
Degollada de Peraza (High Road) - La Laja - Cruce de la Zarcita
Agulo-La Palmita-Agulo
La Calera-Arure
Chipude - Fortaleza - Alto de Garajonay - Chipude
High Road - El Cedro - High Road
In 2004/2005 numerous hiking trails on Gomera were re-marked. Two main routes (around the island and right across the island) are marked red and white, other routes yellow and white. Detailed information boards have been set up at all important starting points for hikes.

Whale Watching
La Gomera has one of the largest whale populations in the world. There is the possibility to practice "gentle whale watching" all year round, which means that the organizers undertake to comply with certain guidelines (minimum distance, no running engine in the immediate vicinity of the whales and dolphins, no touching, no swimming, etc.). and also donate a portion of their profits to whale conservation organizations. There are also efforts to set up a whale sanctuary in the coastal waters of La Gomera. In general, it is advisable to find out from the operator beforehand whether they meet the requirements for gentle whale watching and, if so, to forego the trip.

Whale sightings are almost guaranteed, mostly pilot or pilot whales, but often dolphins as well. With luck, even a sperm whale can be spotted.

 

Cuisine

A watercress soup is an island specialty. Gofio serves as an insert. This differs from our flour in that the grain is first roasted and then ground. This way you can use it without having to reheat it. Soup with gofio was once a staple of the locals and today it's a matter of taste.

Palm honey is made from the sap of date palms and special know-how is required to extract just enough sap from a date palm for the palm to survive. Palm honey is widely used as an ingredient. An example are pancakes with palm honey.

On an island one may expect fish. The menu often features "pescado del dia" (fish of the day). What is meant is what the fishermen happened to catch on the same day. A special feature and not exactly commonplace is "cantadero". This fish has a huge head and looks triangular. It has a lot of bones and tastes very aromatic. "Atún al la plancha" is also typical of the island, fresh tuna fillets that have been prepared in a special marinade, which takes a lot of time. The fish includes "papas arrugadas", which are often translated as "shriveled potatoes". More specifically, they are small jacket potatoes boiled in sea water that are eaten with their skins on. This includes "Mojo". That's two different sauces. One green with coriander and the other red with chili. You can season the fish or potatoes to taste.

Among the drinks, only wine comes from the island and that's not even enough. The vineyards are to be expanded in order to quench the thirst of tourists. "Zumo" is a juice made from fruit that has been pureed in a blender. First of all, there are fruits of the island in it: bananas, papaya, mango, passion fruit, kiwi.

 

Nightlife

Especially in Valle Gran Rey there are many restaurants, e.g. B. La Salsa or Habibi (both in Vueltas), El Coco Loco (Borbalan) or El Baifo (La Playa) and some bars and pubs; Canarian cuisine is z. B. in Charco del Conde (La Puntilla) or in El Palmar (Borbalan). Smaller restaurants such as Abisinia (Vueltas) offer original, typical Canarian cuisine. Tuyo in Vueltas offers very creative cuisine, but is also a bit more expensive than the other restaurants.

In Hermigua, the Basque restaurant Iraxtere stands out (not cheap!). A popular meeting place in Hermigua is the Casa Creativa (the purple house) with a beautiful terrace and a nice bar. Unfortunately, the Casa Creativa restaurant is usually closed lately.

In San Sebastian, Casa del Mar offers fresh fish and paella.

 

Accommodation

The number of places to stay is relatively limited. Valle Gran Rey is recommended for hikers. There are also some accommodation options in the north of the island (e.g. in Hermigua). There are relatively few good hotels, good experiences have been made with the **** Hotel Parador (relatively expensive) in San Sebastian and the Ibo Alfaro in Hermigua. Booking in advance is recommended, especially on weekends free hotel beds can be very scarce and you have to take what's available. Even a ** hotel can be downright lousy (e.g. the windowless Pension Colon in San Sebastián).

Apartments and studios/rooms are best rented on site. You should definitely take a close look at them beforehand if you want to avoid surprises in terms of cleanliness, bugs, noise, etc. In the high season (around Christmas and Easter), however, it is advisable to book in advance if you don't want to spend the nights in the car or in some hideous flophouse. Brokerage offices are also risky. You can make the nicest promises, and in the end you get an expensive but miserable apartment. The best thing to do is take your time and knock on the doors of houses that seem interesting.

Gomera Lounge, La Playa 9, Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera. Tel: +34 (0)922 805195. This accommodation was described in the insert of a popular women's magazine as pleasant and under German management. Price: Apartment/2 people from €45.