Antigua

Antigua

Location: Sacatepéquez Department Map

 

Description of the Antigua

La Antigua Guatemala was the colonial capital of Spanish Central America. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and perhaps Guatemala's most popular tourist attraction.

Usually just called "Antigua" (or La Antigua), most of the city's streets are arranged in the form of a network of parallel streets, forming a rectangle, with the Parque Central as the starting point. The north-south roads are avenues, numbered 1 through 8 from east to west. The avenues are divided into sur (south) and north. The east-west roads are calles or streets, numbered 1 to 9 from north to south. These are in turn divided into orient (east) and poniente (west). The intersection at the northeast corner of the Palace of the Captains-General, i.e. on the southeast corner of Parque Central, where avenues and streets divide. The avenues are south to south of 5a Calle, and north to north of it. The streets are east of 4th avenue, and west of 4th avenue.

Some roads have names that do not follow this numbering scheme, and some off-center roads do not follow the same plan. Most of the corners don't have any signs showing the names of the streets they pass. All roads are made of stone and of poor quality. House numbers are counted from the point of origin. The even numbers are on one side of the street and the odd numbers on the other.

It helps to remember that the north and south sides of Parque Central are 4th and 5th Calles, and the east and west sides are 5th and 4th avenues. Parque Central is a useful reference point on your trip. "5th ave. front #5" is north of Parque Central. "5a ave. sur #5" is south of Parque Central. Basically, if you know if Parque Central is to the north, south, east or west, you can move around the city without any problems.

Inguat Tourist Office 2nd Calle Oriente #11 (between 3rd and 2nd avenues), 7832-3782 ✆, info-antigua@inguat.gob.gt. Monday-Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.

 

Travel Destinations in Antigua

Parque Central in Antigua

Church and Convent of Capuchins (Convento las Capuchinas)

Cathedral of San Jose

La Merced Church

Church of Saint Augustine

 

The whole city is filled with historic buildings, monuments, fountains and ruins. The city was founded by the Spaniards in the 17th century, and follows the traditional layout: a Main Plaza, surrounded by Government buildings and the Catholic Church. The Cathedral, the Palace of the Gobernadores, the Convent of the Capuchinas, the Convent of Santa Clara, the Arch of Santa Catarina, the Church of La Merced and the Handicraft Market deserve a visit.

Entrance to the ruins is expensive, except for the Ruinas y Museo de San Francisco, which cost only 5 quetzals; Ruinas de Santa Clara, Ruinas de San Jeronimo, Ruinas La Recollecion and Museo Capuchino charge Q40 for foreigners (Q2 for locals). The Museo Hotel Casa Santo Domingo charges Q40, although here you can see the ruins for free.

Parque Central is a park in the center of the city. The park is the size of a city block, with concentric circular paths lined with trees and a fountain at its center. The trees are decorated with lights, and there are plenty of benches to sit and watch people go by. The town hall, police station, cathedral and various banks and tourist businesses surround the park. Many Antiguans live in the park, and it is pleasant, busy and lively during the day (not so much at night, so... use common sense).

On a hill north of the city stands a huge cross (Cerro de la Cruz). It's a pleasant, if somewhat strenuous, 30-minute walk from Parque Central. On a clear day, you have a great view of most of Antigua and the Volcán de Agua, which rises to the south. Note: there are many complaints of thefts on the trail. The Tourist Police guide a free walk at 10:00 am and 3:00 pm daily. Speak to the Tourist Police at their post on the north side of the Town Hall, on the northeast corner of Parque Central.

The Valhalla Experimental Station is a macadamia tree nursery with an interesting ecological and environmental plan. Valhalla has donated over 250,000 macadamia trees to indigenous communities in Guatemala. Macadamia nuts are big money, more so than coffee, with the potential to give Guatemalan peasants a better life. he farmer can use the trimmed branches of the trees for firewood. In addition, macadamia trees reduce the amount of carbon dioxide and transform it into wood, nuts and their husks. Walnut shells can be used to pave the streets. In addition, in Valhalla they found a way to transform plants into whole plants with genetic diversity, instead of grafts. This allows the trees to adapt to different environmental conditions. The season transforms macadamia nuts into snacks, chocolates, skin cream, pure oil and flour that can be used to make pancakes. Breakfast is served all day, every day until 3:30 pm. Breakfast includes 3 pancakes made from macadamia flour, served with macadamia butter, homemade blueberry marmalade and a drink of your choice. No need to book.

The Valhalla Experimental Station is located a few kilometers from Antigua, in the direction of San Miguel Dueñas. There are buses every 30 minutes on this route, and the price is around Q3.50 one way. The station offers guided tours in Spanish, English, and sometimes other languages as well. At the end of the visit they offer samples of their various macadamia products. Phone: +502 7888-6308, fax: +502 7831-5799. Open Monday-Saturday 8:00 am to 4:30 pm.

El Mercado or the Market is located about 3 blocks west of the northwest corner of downtown. Strolling through the market is a cultural experience. It's open every day, including Sunday, but the days it's biggest are Saturday, Monday and Thursday. It is very large and labyrinthine, and is likely to get lost. It is dark in covered areas, and lighter in outdoor sections. The cheapest food, gifts, fresh meat and all kinds of items can be found here. There are so many sections of the market that you need to spend a day to see them all. To the south is a modern, clean and well-stocked gift shop, local arts and crafts arranged around a central fountain. To the east is the avenue of restaurants and supermarkets. To the west, the bus terminal, where you can take a bus to all the towns in the region and to Guatemala City. To the north you can find football fields and second-hand clothing stores. In the center of the market there are narrow alleys crossing meat markets, flower shops, and numerous stalls with fruit for sale. In a large outdoor area next to the bus stop there is an open-air fruit market - where magnificent papayas, large mangoes, pineapples and all kinds of tropical fruit are sold. And, of course, the usual bananas, apples and grapes, of excellent quality and fresh. Occasionally, animals such as chickens and small mammals are also sold. It's a meeting point for all Antiguans, and it's where most families buy food. You are guaranteed to get lost every time you enter the main market area. The market has grown tremendously, much to the dismay of the locals, who speak of the clean, organized, small and prettier market they grew up with.

 

Getting here

Located just 45 km west of Guatemala City, a journey from La Aurora Airport takes just 45-60 minutes.

You can take a crowded bus from Guatemala City via Q8. More than 100 bus drivers have died due to gang clashes. Drivers who refuse to pay exorbitant sums of money for protection are killed. Despite this, many still consider public and "private" buses to be safer than taking a taxi or tuk-tuks (small tricycles with fabric doors). Antique tuk-tuks are famous for taking tourists to bad areas of the city, where they are robbed - so it is advisable to only ride a tuk tuk if you know the driver. In countries like Guatemala, where safety is a major concern, it's best to call a taxi company.

There are shuttles that go directly from the airport to the city for Q80, and they leave regularly during the day until 20:00. It is advisable to buy the ticket in advance because the bus may or may not be full, depending on the number of flights arriving at the same time. A taxi from the airport to Antigua should cost around Q350, but the price can come down considerably if you share it with one or two people. There are numerous travel agencies in Parque Central that arrange trips back to the airport. Usual cost is Q55-80. To take the bus from the airport, go to the bus stop near the car park. However, sometimes buses are not allowed to stop there (at least the unofficial ones), and you have to be prepared to walk a long way to reach another station, outside the airport grounds. However, a tourist dragging luggage behind him makes an easy target for a local thief. The second problem with taking buses is that they are often crowded with people, so it can be difficult to store your bags and make sure they don't get stolen.

There is a direct shuttle from Copán, Honduras that departs twice a day, at 5:30 am and at noon.

A tourist van costs around Q250-350. The driver will meet you at the airport with his name on a sign. If you are visiting Antigua for the first time, the convenience and safety offered by these types of vans may well offset the cost.

There is no airport or train station in Antigua.

 

Local transport

Antigua is a very compact city and is easy to walk around. Most tourist attractions are in an area of 8x8 blocks, less than 1 km wide. You can cross it in 15 minutes. Be careful: the sidewalks are narrow and not always in good condition, you may have to walk on the street with cars passing right next to you, and at night it's better to be careful and always be aware. Normal tourist maps are very linear and are only accurate in the center of the city, the outskirts being indistinct and imprecise. it is better to get a map with exact topography if you want to go to places far from the city center, because dead ends and streets that are not straight are not accurately represented.

If you don't know the city streets very well, and it's after 11 pm, it's best to take a taxi back to your hotel, especially if you're alone, or if you're going more than a few blocks away from the well-lit area of Parque Central.

Tuk-tuks and taxis can take you to any destination within the city center for Q10 or less - negotiate the price with the taxi driver before getting in. If you don't, they usually charge 50-100% more than usual. Hail a tuk-tuk or get a taxi at Parque Central; or along one of the main routes on the outskirts of the city.

 

What to do

Cultural walking tours of Antigua are offered six days a week. These are organized by Elizabeth Bell, who came to Guatemala in 1969 from the United States and stayed. She has written two books on Antigua (Antigua Guatemala: The City and Its Heritage and Lent and Holy Week in Antigua). This tour tells you what few people know-including about the people and forces that "drive" Antigua today and in the past, as you tour some of the city's top attractions. Since Elizabeth Bell is one of those people who drive Antigua, her perspective is hardly surpassed. An essential complement to a normal guided tour of the main monuments and their histories. It costs around Q150 (Q125 for project volunteers), including the cost of entrance fees to the monuments. Some of the profits are donated to cultural foundations in Antigua. Available in English and Spanish. Part of the fountain in Parque Central.

Tuesday-Wednesday, Friday-Saturday 9:30-24:30, with Elizabeth Bell.
Monday, Tuesday 14:00-17:00, with Roberto Spillari.
Mandatory reservation; contact Antigua Tours, 3ª calle nte #28, tel.: +502 7832-5821 and +502 7832-2046.

 

Coffee Route

You can arrange a Coffee Tour, organized by As Green As It Gets, which offers a unique opportunity to help local coffee farmers and meet their families. The visits start with a short walk with the farmer to his plantations. Visitors follow the journey of the coffee bean from seed to cup learning about all aspects of the coffee plantation from the farmer's perspective. Situated on the impressive Volcano de Agua, overlooking the Antigua Valley, visitors are invited into the farmer's home and learn how to grind and roast coffee. All farmers receive cash on delivery and visitors are encouraged to buy coffee directly from farmers. tel.: +502 5663-9764.

 

Hiking

For those who like to hike, two routes near Antigua are recommended: Climb Volcán Pacaya and/or Volcán Acatenango.

Climbing the still active Volcán Pacaya is easy and you will find dozens of travel agencies that can sell you tickets, which normally cost between Q60-75, depending on your bargaining skills. This includes a shuttle bus to and from the volcano. Once there, you have to pay an extra Q40 to enter the park. Pacaya is an active volcano, and you can go right up to the crater rim. And yes, occasionally some people do fall! The walk is not very difficult, except for the last 100 meters, which go through very loose volcanic rocks. Walking can be tiring and anyone who is not in good physical condition should consider whether or not to do it. If you go in the afternoon, be prepared to go down at night. It takes approximately an hour and a half to go up and 45 minutes to go down the mountain. There are some kiosks at the bottom of this trail that sell beer.
Guatemala Ventures has guided hikes to Pacaya Volcano.
Antigua Tours offers a guided trek from Antigua for US$75 (about Q625) for more than 5 people. 6:00-13:00 or 13:00-20:30 daily.
You can find more information on the Guatemala Turística website (Spanish).

Climbing Volcán Acatenango is something completely different: this hike goes from Antigua (1500 meters) to 3976 meters in one day. You need to be in shape, to carry the material, and to take precautions against Altitude Sickness. Most people who make this trip spend the night on the mountain, although some go up and down in one day. There are currently two companies offering the Acatenango Volcano trail. However, if you have the necessary equipment, you can make the trip alone, as there is only one way to go up.
Volcán Água, dormant, is located south of the city. Some people recommend that you go up the mountain with a company and with a police escort, to avoid problems; there have been reports of thefts of individual tourists. Take security seriously; ask for advice at the tourist office in Inguat, and go with a company you trust.

 

Other activities

GuatemalaVentures, 1era Av. Sur (down from Café Sky) - Offers a wide variety of outdoor activities, such as guided hikes to area volcanoes, mountain biking, kayaking, and birdwatching hikes. GuatemalaVentures guides speak, in addition to Spanish, German and English.
Guatemala World. A travel agency based in Antigua, with travel for individuals and groups in Guatemala and Central America. Options include: small excursions (1-3 days) or trips of 8 or more days, focusing on Mayan culture and tradition, relaxation, archaeology, nature and/or adventure. You can also arrange Spanish lessons and accommodation in a local's home. Also offers trips to or in: Belize, Honduras, El Salvador, Mexico, Costa Rica or Cuba.
Viaventure - Offers luxury trips for one or several days. It is better to contact in advance, because it is not customary to just show up there and buy a trip. They can arrange helicopter tours, VIP guides, jeeps, etc. Their services tend to be more expensive than other local agencies, but the offer is different from what you will find in one of the many agencies in the city.
Don Quijote Cruisers, 6ta. Calle Oriente (in front of the union tank). Rent a bike and cycle around Antigua's many scenic ruins and cafes. Prices range from Q80 for three hours to Q350 for the whole day.

 

Learn

Antigua is the most popular - although not the cheapest - place to learn Spanish in Guatemala. Price and hours vary, and may change depending on the season. Staying at a local's home is cheaper and more culturally enriching than a hotel; the average price of a room in a Guatemalan family's house is Q585 for 7 nights, in a private room with private bathroom and 2-3 meals a day (except Sunday). It's worth paying the extra price for a private bathroom or shower, and look for a family that only accepts one or a few students for full immersion in the local culture. Some families visit each other on Sundays and therefore may not be available to prepare meals. If you are the only student in that house, you may be invited to these family gatherings.

Escuela Tecun Uman - Run by Mario Castellanos, one of the most experienced teachers in the city, the school has a good reputation among foreigners.
Escuela Jimenez - This school offers private teachers, who adapt according to the level of learning, determined in an initial interview. Located near the main market street, the school is a family business run by Miguel Morales-Jiménez.
Don Pedro de Alvarado Spanish School - One student, two teachers. This school offers a course of 6 hours/day. The student studies with a teacher each morning, focusing on grammar and language usage. In the afternoon, he will study with another teacher who focuses on improving conversational skills.
Proyecto Lingüistico Francisco Marroquín - It is the oldest language school in Antigua, founded in 1969, which has grown to include courses in several Mayan languages, including Kaqchikel, K'iche and Mam. Your "Full Immersion Program" includes the option to stay with a Guatemalan host family.
Academia de Español Sevilla, 1ª Avenida Sur # 17C, +502 7832-5101 ✆, fax: +502 7832-5101. It offers private Spanish classes. It also offers accommodation in student houses or in the home of a Guatemalan family, both with 3 meals/day 6 days/week, and private bathroom (if you ask for one). The school offers daily activities such as cultural explorations.
Guate Linda Center - Languages offered include: Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Japanese, Korean, and a Mayan language called Kakchickel. You can stay at the school itself. There is a teacher for every student, with between 20-35 hours per week.
Academia de Español Ya! (5 blocks from Parque Central), info@espanolya.com. Teachers with university education. All necessary materials are included in the price. Private or group lessons. It has a garden for you to study. It helps him find activities to spend the afternoon and accommodation with a Guatemalan family. Q750 for 4 hours/day, 5 days/week.
AdE - Traveling Spanish, 4ª Calle Poniente No. 17 (2 blocks from Parque Central), +502 7832-8005 ✆, st@spanishtraveling.com. Learn Spanish while visiting Guatemala's most popular tourist attractions, including Lake Atitlán, Quetzaltenango, Río Dulce and Livingston. Classes can take place on coffee plantations, in a museum, in a park, on the shore of a lake, or in the classroom in Antigua.
Escuela de Espanol Cooperacion, 7th Av. Norte, 15B, mailto:escuela_coop@yahoo.com - A highly recommended school run as a cooperative, ensuring teachers receive fair wages. The school has a nice garden to study. Q750/week for 20 hours with a private tutor. You can arrange to stay with a Guatemalan family.
Escuela de Español Ixquic 7a Av. North No. 74A, info@spanishschoolixquic.edu.gt. Spanish school in operation since 1993.

 

Work

He easily finds work as a waiter or bartender, or as a Maitre d' in any of Antigua's bars, restaurants and hotels. They usually pay Q65-165 per day plus tips. It's important to speak Spanish to get a job in most restaurants, but in the more touristy areas, where most of the customers are foreigners, it's possible to get a job without knowing it. You can also volunteer to work for non-profit organizations. There are many local projects in education, health, and other fields that accept volunteers. An example is Common Hope, and other local churches and charities. These organizations must be contacted in advance, to see if there are vacancies and to register the volunteer - which is very important for the safety of the clients.

 

Buy

When changing money at the bank, you will need your passport. Banks are open seven days a week until 19:00-20:00. Most of the time, a passport is not required to exchange between dollars and quetzales. However, it is necessary to have a passport to, for example, exchange travelers checks for cash. ATMs are also available throughout the city.

The market - The market is located about three blocks west of the northwest corner of downtown. The market is open every day, but is bigger on Saturdays, Mondays, and Thursdays. it's a big and labyrinthine market, in which you will probably get lost. It's dark in the covered areas, and brighter outside. The cheapest food, the freshest meat, gifts and all kinds of objects can be found here.

What to Buy?
Carved wooden figures and masks are very popular in Guatemala, and easy to find in many of the shops and street stalls in La Antigua Guatemala. These are wonderful and unique souvenirs or gifts to bring home for friends and family, or simply something unusual to remember your trip.
Cheap clothes, shoes, and leather goods - Can be found in the market. You can buy new pants for Q8 or less. Check the quality and comfort before purchasing the shoes. Smaller sizes, difficult to find in Europe or the United States, are easy to find here due to the small stature of the population.
Cheap tropical fruits - Also found in the market. Papayas, mangoes, cherries, strawberries, melons, plums and other delicious tropical fruits abound in the market, depending on the season. The "lychas", covered by a red hair, have a great flavor, like the lychees found in other countries. Fruits are "safe" to eat if they are washed. However, it might be a good idea to stay away from strawberries unless you can soak them in bleach to get any "fertilizer" or contaminated water out.
Handcrafted jade and stone fabric and jewelry are sold by local indigenous women dressed in brightly colored clothing. They all say the same thing, "my mom made them by hand", which is probably true. You can usually haggle the price down to 25% less than the original price, or more if you leave.

 

Eat

Antigua has cafes and restaurants for all budgets and tastes. The city is the most touristic place in Guatemala, so you'll find everything you're looking for, including international fast-food chains. Be careful where you eat. Restaurants without toilets or dirty toilets are more likely to get food poisoning. Avoid cold salads, fresh vegetables, and undercooked meat. Ice cream carts are plentiful on city streets and popular with locals, but may not be suitable for sensitive stomachs.

Economic
The Bagel Barn, 5a Calle Poniente #2, in the city center, 10 meters from Parqie Central - Travelers come here to eat the delicious bagels, drink the excellent coffee and use the wireless internet (for those traveling with their portable). A very welcoming environment, with movie screenings in the afternoons and evenings.
Helados Marco Polo 5a Ave Nte, in front of Helados Sarita (see below). - Offers ice cream dishes in a more sophisticated setting.
Helados Sarita ("after 1948"), 5th Ave Nte. - Several dozen flavors of ice cream, in 3 different types of cones, sundaes, and other elaborate flavors.
Pan Colonial 7th Av. Norte, 13. Traditional Guatemalan pastry, with a good selection of breads, one of the best (and cheapest) pastry shops in Antigua.

Average
Cafe Mediterraneo 6 Calle Poniente 6A, +502 7832-7180 ✆. Dinners from 6 pm, Wednesday-Monday... A wide variety of delicious pasta.
Cinema Café Bistro 5a Ave Sur #14, two blocks south of the southwest corner of Parque Central. - Offers food with a movie running all the time, from mid-afternoon to late evening. Ask for movie times of the week.
Dabbawala Tandoori, Tel: +502 7832-9976. - A new Indian take-out restaurant. Samosas, onion bhajjiya, chicken madras, vindolho, naan, and other dishes. One of the owners brings you the order at a moro. Most small hotels in the city can order food if you ask for it. Remember to ask for plastic plates and forks if you need them!
El Mix 4th Avenue sur 4a (half a block from Parque Central), +502 7832-8934 ✆, elmix@mail.com. Music, a patio vegetarian dishes, Israeli food.
Mono Loco, 5th ave. sur - A tourist restaurant, with cheap international calls and some computers with internet. The food is very "gringo", but tasty all the same. There is a large bar on the ground floor, as well as a covered outdoor second floor. A good place to hang out or grab a burger.
El Pelícano Dorado At the South end of Calzada Santa Lucia, where it leaves for Ciudad Vieja, Nos. 7&7A. tel: +502 7832-7242. Authentic Food from Livingston: fresh fish and seafood, tapado, seafood broth, ceviches, rice and beans, giffity, etc. Also traditional Garifuna punta music played live on the weekends.
Rainbow Restaurant and Bookshop 7a. Ave Sur #6, one block south and two blocks west of the southwest corner of Parque Central. Phone: +502 7832-1919. It offers "tourist" breakfasts, lunches and dinners. There is a breakfast special with tomato, beans, egg, rice and tea or coffee, very cheap. Sandwiches and entrees are also inexpensive, and they also offer salads and desserts. They use purified water in all drinks, ice, and food preparation. There is also live music, poetry readings and interesting talks about Guatemala.
Sangre 5 Av. North #33. - Great food, good atmosphere. Moderate prices. Great wine selection.
Y tu Piña, también, 6a Calle Oriente & Primera Avenida Sur. - Breakfasts and lunches. It has liqueurs, flavored rums, "Luísa" soups, and espresso ons. Free Internet.

Expensive
Bistrot Cinq, 4a calle oriente #7. A French bistro with great food, featuring local cuisine and special dishes hard to find anywhere else in Antigua. Run by Americans. It has an open kitchen, so you can see the cooks at work, and a great bar.
Estudio35 5th avenue north. - Pleasant, with a good atmosphere, excellent pizza and tasty crepes. It also has a wide range of drinks and cocktails, as well as free wireless internet.
La Fonda de la Calle Real , tel.: +502 7832-0507. Guatemalan specialty, reasonably priced. The "De Todo Un Poco" ("a little bit of everything") menu combines steak, chicken, and a sausage for Q91. The "Pepian Vegetariano" menu offers green beans and other vegetables with an unusual sauce. The green salad is fresh and comes in a lot of quantity. Uses purified water in all beverages, ice and food preparation.
3a Calle Pte 7
5a Ave Nte 5 - Located in a rustic building with three floors, with balconies on the second floor.

Nokiate, 1st avenue sur #7. The only sushi bar in Antigua where you can watch the chef prepare summer rolls, sashimi and sushi. It also has a great selection of Latin-Japanese dishes. The atmosphere is very pleasant and inviting.
La Peña de Sol Latino, 5th Calle Poniente - A bar and restaurant with live Guatemalan and Central American music. The music, atmosphere and food make this a very special place. Try the brownies; they are simply fantastic. The macadamia grouper is also highly recommended, and the other desserts are fantastic too. They only use purified water and disinfect all food, so you can safely enjoy one of their creative salads. Open for lunches and dinners.
Restaurante Doña Luisa Xicotencatl, 4a Calle Ote 12 - A restaurant located in a magnificent courtyard of a historic building. The menu includes a great breakfast, burgers, and a Guatemalan version of Tex-Mex cuisine. They use purified water in food preparation, drinks and ice, which means the menu is safe for sensitive stomachs. There is a pastry shop in the building. Highly recommended for the cookies and delicious breakfast breads.
Sabor Cubano 4a Calle Oriente 3A, half a block east on the north side of Parque Central. - This restaurant has a slightly upscale atmosphere. There is live Cuban music from Thursday to Saturday night and Sunday afternoon.
Travel Menu, 6a Calle Pte #14, one and a half blocks south west of the southwest corner of Parque Central. A small restaurant, but with big servings. It seats about 20 people, with eight tables in a small, candle-lit room. They offer starters at low prices, with several vegetarian options. Portions are generous. Beer and wine are also available, but not desserts. It attracts many tourists.
Kloster 3a Calle Oriente No. 28. - Right next to Casa Santo Domingo, it has good fondue, tasty steaks, and delicious prawns. The bread is homemade, tasty and fresh. It has a decent selection of wines. There is a fondue for dessert, with excellent quality chocolate. The service is excellent.

 

Drink and leave

Café No Sé, Primera Avenida Sur - A place with a bohemian atmosphere, frequented by storytellers. Live music, corny art and colorful personalities. They serve Cuban fajitas and have a great selection of tequilas.
Cafe Sky, 1st Av. Sur 15. - One of the best spots in Antigua to see Volcan de Agua and the sunset.
Fernando's Kaffee, 7th Avenida Nte 43D - Best coffee in Antigua, plus great breakfasts, next to Posada La Merced. Fernando, the owner, is very friendly. A pleasant patio allows you to sit outside in summer. Breakfasts are fantastic: pancakes, crepes and fresh fruit. A great place to spend time while relaxing and drinking a coffee.
Mono Loco, half a block below Parque Central. - National and international beers. Pop/rock music. It has a big TV to watch sports.
Reilly's Irish Tavern, 5th Ave. nte. #31. - Antigua's only Irish pub. Serves Guinness and Jagermeister, among other things. Every Sunday at 18:00 they have a contest.
Y tu Piña, también, 6a Calle Oriente & Primera Avenida Sur. - Breakfasts and lunches. It has licuados, rum of various favors, and the famous "Luísa's soups". It also has good espressos and free wireless internet.
El Muro Pub 3ª Calle oriente 19 D (Antigua Guatemala), +502 7832-8849 ✆. Classic rock, with good drinks, as well as local, Asian and vegetarian cuisine. Credit cards accepted. Monday-Saturday 17:30-1:00.
Wiener. Austrian restaurant serving the best schnitzel west of Vienna. They serve great local food and have friendly, helpful staff.

 

Sleep

Economic
Antigua UmmaGumma Hostel, 7a Avenida Norte, #34, +502 7832-4413 ✆, ummagumma@itelgua.com. Two shared kitchens, fully equipped, with a common area with TV, wireless internet and two common computers, in addition to a terrace, laundry, international calls, and a travel agency. Dorms and private rooms available. Q40 for a bed in a dorm.
La Casa de los Abuelos, mrosori@gmail.com. A family home, turned into a beautiful hotel, 5 minutes from downtown La Antigua, with a great view of the volcanoes, and space packages for Spanish students.
Casa Bellona, Calle Coyolar # 11 (At the end of 2nd Avenida Sur), 7832-0124 ✆. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: noon. A nice guesthouse in Antigua. You can use the kitchen to cook your own meals, but breakfast is included. Nice clean rooms with shared bathroom which are also very clean. Garden with hammocks and a living room with cable TV and DVD, a great place to socialize with other travellers. A little far from the center (10-15 minutes walk), but it's a good hotel for a good price. $20 for a double room.
El Gato Negro, 6a Avenida Norte, 1a, +502 7832 1229 ✆, info@blackcatantigua.com. The biggest, and perhaps the funnest, motel in Antigua. The price includes breakfast (see the Desayuno menu). Free internet, including wireless internet. There is a "cinema" with more than 350 films, totally free. You can only book a double room via the website. It is better to book in advance as it is very popular. Q60 for a dorm bed, Q150 for a double.
Hotel Casa Cristina, Callejon Camposeco 3A (between Avenida nte 6 and 7, one block from Iglesia de La Merced). This small and charming 10-room hotel is located just four blocks from Parque Central, in the center of Antigua. All rooms have private bathrooms and hot water. Free tea, coffee and purified water. Wireless Internet in all rooms. USD18 for a single room with Cable TV (USD22); USD22 for a double room with cable TV ($26), USD35 for a deluxe room with views of Volcán de Agua and cable TV. Discounts when staying a week or a month.
Hostel 5, 4ª Avenida Norte #33 (about 3 blocks from the center). Q50 for a dorm bed with breakfast included. Friendly owner who takes good care of you, and a great cook. Comfortable beds, extremely clean establishments, lockers, hot showers, a spectacular terrace with picnic tables, hammocks, and a great view of the volcano. The bar/restaurant has cheap beer and great food.
Hostel Los Amigos 2nd Avenue, between 7th and 8th calle. Q35 for a dorm bed.
Hostel Calle 6 6ª Calle Poniente Nº 19 (one block from Parque Central), +502 5532-3274 ✆. A great motel. The price includes internet, laundry service, luggage storage, and 24 hour hot water. The hostel also includes a travel agency. Q35 a dorm bed.
Posada Juma Ocag Calzada de Santa Lucía # 13. Rooms with private bathrooms and iron-framed beds. The rooms are arranged around a small but beautiful courtyard. Small terrace. Friendly and helpful employees. Since Q110.
Jungle Party Hostel, 6ª Avenida Norte 20 (between 2nd and 3rd Calle Poniente), +502 7832 0463 ✆. A mid-size motel with a courtyard, a bar, a restaurant and hammocks. Free wireless Internet. Showers with hot water. The price includes breakfast. Note: No food or drink is allowed from outside the hostel. Q60 for a dorm bed.

Average
Dos Loros Inn, Calle de San Luquitas #20, Callejon de Burrito, +800 234-2705 ✆, info@doslorosinn.com. Modern and spacious rooms, with a comfortable Queen size bed and a huge bathroom with a huge bathtub. Free wireless Internet. USD56 (about Q447) for a queen size bed.
Hotel Boutique Euskadi [20], 3rd Calle Oriente #30 - A nice, clean hotel with a good restaurant and efficient staff.
Posada de la Merced, near Iglesia de la Merced - Very clean and well maintained hotel with helpful staff. The owner used to be a tour guide and he gives you great advice.
Hotel Casa Antigua, 3ª Calle Poniete #5 (1 block northwest of central park), +502 7832-9090 ✆, fax: +502 7832-9191, hotelcasa-antigua@hotmail.com. Check-in: 3pm, check-out: 1pm. Historic hotel just a two-minute walk from Parque Central. 22 rooms, all with bathtubs, three gardens with fountains and a terrace. All rooms are decorated with unique antiques. Discounts for large groups or weekly stays. Free Wi-Fi & internet terminals, free purified water, breakfast available, cafe, common kitchen, laundry service, bafafem storage, cable TV, 24 hour hot water and cars to pick you up from the airport. $45-85 (Q350-680).
Hotel Casa Rustica, 6th Ave Norte #8 (one block west of Parque Central), +502 7832-3709 ✆, casarusticagt@hotmail.com. Just one block from Parque Central. Gardens, terraces and hammocks. All rooms are private, have comfortable anti-stress beds and plenty of natural light. Single rooms with shared bathroom ($25), or with private bathroom and cable TV ($35) and garden view ($39). Double rooms with private bathroom ($35), or with private bathroom and cable TV ($45) and garden view ($47); triple and quad rooms are also available. Free Wi-Fi, free purified water, large communal kitchen, laundry service, luggage storage, internet terminals, internet café, airport pick-up cars, cable TV, and 24-hour hot water. USD19-47.
Hotel Quinta de las Flore. A 10-minute walk from the central square, the hotel offers several peaceful rooms arranged around a central fountain. It has a fireplace, with wood ready to burn. $75-95 for a double room (more on Holy Week and New Year).
Posada Don Valentino, 5ª Calle poniente #28 (two blocks west of Parque Central), +502 7832-0384 ✆, don.valentino@hotmail.com. Spacious, light-filled rooms and common areas with Guatemalan furniture and textiles. All rooms have a private bathroom, cable TV, 24 hour hot water and great views. 18 standard rooms and 3 suites. Two large terraces with views of the city and the volcano. It has an internet cafe, international calls, travel agency, common kitchen, laundry service, luggage storage, and free bottled water. Bilingual employees. $37 for a single, $48 for a double, $57 for a triple, $65 for a quad, suites also available. Discounts for large groups and long stays. $37-65.
Posada Dona Luisa. Located a few blocks from Parque Central. It has nice and friendly staff, and it's clean and quiet. Available single, double and triple. $30-45.
Posada Lazos Fuertes. A 15-room hotel whose profits supposedly help poor Guatemalan children. Q395 for a double.

Expensive
El Marques de Antigua, 4th avenue sur # 30, +502 7832-8259 ✆, info@elmarquesdeantigua.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 1PM. El Marques de Antigua is a unique hotel, completely made up of suites, 4 blocks from Parque Central. It is within walking distance of many spas, restaurants, art galleries and major tourist attractions. There are two types of suites: Loft Dona Beatriz (single) and Loft Don Pedro (double), both fully furnished and with a kitchen, a dining room, a mini-patio with a fountain, washing machine and dryer, TV, Free WiFi, and more. $75-135.
Palacio de Doña Leonor, 4a Calle Oriente Casa No.8, +502 7832 2281 ✆, reservations@palaciodeleonor.com. It received its name from the daughter of Pedro de Alvarado, conqueror and first governor of Guatemala. It offers twelve rooms and suites arranged around a magnificent patio/garden.
Casa Madeleine Bed & Breakfast and Spa, Calle del Espiritu Santo # 69, +502 7832 9348 ✆, fax: +502 7832 9358, casamadeleine@aol.com. A beautiful B&B located about 6-7 blocks from Parque Central. Comfortable rooms, hot water, Wi-Fi, shampoo, etc. It has a jacuzzi and spa. Great views from the hotel patio and the volcano. Discounts for groups, students and volunteers. $95-205.
Casa Santo Domingo, 3a Calle Oriente No. 28 "A" - A world-class luxury hotel located in the ruins of a refurbished convent. Included in the price are tickets to three great museums on Paseo De Los Museos. A 10-minute walk from the central park. Standard rooms for $170-190, suites for $215-360 (December 2005 prices). Domingoreservas@intelnet.net.gt. Phone: +502 7820-1222: Fax: +502 7832-4155.
Hotel Casa del Parque, 4th Ave Norte #5 (60 meters north of Parque Central), +502 7832-0961 ✆, fax: +502 7832-3709, hotelcasadelparque@hotmail.com. A four-star hotel just a 30-second walk from Parque Central. 16 rooms & 9 suites, with bathroom, breakfast, pool, jacuzzi, sauna, three gardens with fountains and a terrace. All rooms are decorated with beautiful typical Guatemalan furniture. Free Wi-Fi & internet terminals, free purified water, free breakfast & coffee, laundry service, luggage storage, airport pick-up cars, cable TV, and 24-hour hot water. $69-115.
Hotel Convento Santa Catalina, 5 Ave Norte #28, +502 7832-3080 ✆, fax: +502 7832-3610, hotelconvento@yahoo.com, mail@conventohotel.com. The Convent of Santa Catalina Martir was the second monastery founded by the order of Saint Augustine, in 1613. In 1693, a bridge was built to connect the monastery to a property acquired by the convent, on the other side of the street, so that the nuns could could walk down the street without being seen. Nowadays, it is one of the main tourist attractions of Antigua, el Arco de Santa Catalina. The hotel offers single, double, triple, and junior suites. 16 furnished rooms, seven of which have kitchenettes. 2 beautiful gardens and a magnificent view of the volcanoes. $70-100.
The Palace of Dona Beatriz. - A luxury B&B on a coffee plantation, close to the convent and museum of Santo Domingo. $100-165 for a single or junior suite.
Porta Antigua, 8ª calle poniente No.1, +502 7832-2801 ✆, fax: +502 7832-0807, ventasantigua@portahotels.com. A beautiful hotel, just a few blocks from Parque Central, on a quiet street. The hotel has a beautiful swimming pool, parrots that live by your window and great meals. Try the fantastic hot chocolate. $150-225.

In the home of a Guatemalan family
Home stays with Guatemalan families are easy to arrange through Spanish schools or by contacting the host family directly. As the stay is prepaid, you can change schools whenever you want and start attending a new one. Transfers from the airport are also pre-paid if arranged through a school, so if the driver asks for a tip of Q40 or Q80, smile and give him a maximum of Q10 or Q15 (a 20% tip), unless that he carried his luggage up a steep hill and dozens of steps. The houses are often on top of hills, so be prepared to find large black scorpions on the illuminated walls when going home at night. They are harmless if you don't disturb them. Choose a house in the city to avoid "climbing" hills, and to have less problems with mosquitoes. Families currently charge around Q580 for 7 days in a room with shared bathroom facilities and two meals. Expect to pay around Q80 or Q160 extra if you also want to eat lunch or if you want a private bathroom (well worth it if you don't want to share a bathroom with a dozen other people). One advantage of staying with a Guatemalan family for a Spanish student is the possibility of better absorbing the culture and learning the language better. The fewer students you have with a family, the better your experience. Too many students prefer to speak English with each other and destroy the experience for you. Before paying, ask how many people are in the house. You might find that more than 14 people share a sink and two toilets. The water pressure is low at night, and you may not be able to take a shower with hot water if the pressure is not enough to activate the shower. Buy your own shampoo and soap, because you can use the same soap for washing dishes and showering. Facilities can be a little more basic than a hotel: a simple adobe or cement building, shared bathroom, and small rooms. Ask if you have a lock for your room, because you might share the house with "dubious" people, and it's not a good idea to carry your camera and laptop around. Don't forget that mosquitoes are common, and owners sometimes leave the door open while cleaning. A mosquito net is necessary if you don't want to have mosquitoes buzzing in your ear while you sleep. Some areas of Antigua do not have mosquitoes, in others they are abundant. If you value cleanliness and convenience, book a room with a private bathroom. You have to get your own towels. If you leave one in a common bathroom, don't be surprised if everyone uses it. Meal times vary, with dinner being served at either 7.30am or 8pm, so it's best to eat elsewhere if you want to go to bed early. Dinner is simple - a few pieces of cold bread and perhaps a very light soup. If you want a more well-stocked dinner, you'll have to go to a restaurant. Fresh fruits and vegetables are often not served, so eat lots of beans or make your own source of fiber.

Ana & Dany, anaguate@hotmail.com. A friendly and nice couple offering rooms in their house. He has four rooms (only two of them with a private bathroom) in his small house on Calle De Los Pasos, near the Church of San Francisco. Their two children also live there. Both speak English, and are very helpful for Spanish students. They also teach Spanish privately and through schools. Rooms are small and basic, but clean.

 

Keep in touch

There are several internet cafes and call shops in Antigua. Usually the price of an hour of internet costs Q5-10. Some Internet cafes provide videophones for Internet phone calls. Many call shops use VoIP, and not all prefixes work. The call center in the city center cannot contact certain mobile phones or some prefixes, which are more recent. The price is $2 for one minute on the phone, to receive voice mail, or to speak with customer service.

The Bagel Barn 5a Calle Poniente #2 - The Bagel Barn offers free wi-fi for those traveling with laptops. Enjoy a cup of coffee or a bagel while surfing the net. Very close to Parque Central.
Escuela Español International Calls, 6a Calle Pte #8 - Has about twelve machines with internet access for just Q5/hour (December 2005 prices). The price is great, but the machines aren't very fast. One block south and one block west of Parque Central.
Rainbow Restaurant and Bookshop, 7a Ave Sur #8 - Has internet access. If you spend more than Q20 at the bookshop, you get 25 minutes of free internet. Phone: +502-7832-1919.
Funky Monkey Net - Now known as BambooNet, 5a Ave Sur L-2, Paseo de los Corregedores #6. Phone: +502-7832-4195. peter@bamboogroupsa.com. - A tourist-oriented café, south of Parque Central, offering internet machines for Q6/hour (July 2007 prices).
Hotel Casa Rustica, 6ª Ave Norte #8 - Has a small bar & internet cafe on the premises. Situated just one block from Parque Central. The internet is fast and the signal is strong. For hotel guests, the service is free. For the rest, it's Q5/hour, Q20/day or Q70/week. Check your emails sitting in the garden, terrace or in a hammock, while drinking a soft drink or eating a snack.

 

Security

Due to the presence of the "Tourist Police", Antigua is much safer than any other Guatemalan city. However, the tourist police are only present inside the city. During the day it is very unlikely to get robbed in Antigua. However, if you leave the tourist areas and wander the streets at night, there is considerable risk, especially at dawn when the police change shifts. It's best to leave your passport at the hotel and walk around with any identification. Instead of carrying cash, carry a credit card as there are ATMs available in the city. If you have to travel a lot, you can use a money belt, taking a wallet with just a few dollars to hand over to the thief in case it gets stolen. There are several places on your body where you can hide a few extra quetzals, or your credit card. Crimes committed against women do not receive much attention. Although Guatemala is a safe place for some, a woman will be safer riding in a public bus full of people than in a tuk-tuk or taxi with an unknown driver.

Almost all bars and restaurants can arrange a taxi for you. Asking the bartender for a taxi, rather than looking for one yourself, is a good idea, as they usually know which drivers to call. Ask them the price before he calls you, and ask him to confirm with the driver. In Antigua, many locals consider buses to be safer than tuk-tuks. Due to the crowd present, it is unlikely to get ripped off. Furthermore, some tuk-tuks take tourists to "doubtful" areas of the city to rob them. However, if the bar or hotel employee calls the tuk-tuk, it is likely to be safe.

During high season, such as during Holy Week or any other major festival in Antigua, pickpockets abound and it's best to carry your wallet with you. Avoid carrying large amounts of cash and showing it. When walking through the crowds in the market, walk with your backpacks and bags in front of you, because there are some thieves who use razors to cut the fabric of a backpack without you feeling anything, in order to steal its contents.

If you plan to visit monuments, such as "La Cruz", which are outside the city, make sure you go with a tourist police officer, who escorts tourists to "La Cruz" at least once a day. (See See section).

 

Health

Municipal water in Antigua is treated with chlorine. However, this is not completely secure. It's best to drink agua del garrafon or agua embotellada (purified bottled water), not agua del chorro (tap water). Some houses and restaurants have purified water in 20 liter bottles and serve it in glasses. It's rude to ask if the ice is made from purified water, but they'll never admit the truth about the source of the water either way.

Antigua is in an underdeveloped country. Therefore, irrigation water is often contaminated with human faeces. This puts travelers at risk of catching faecal infections such as Hepatitis A, salmonella, and E.coli. The Center for Disease Control has a list of recommendations for Guatemala. You should consider receiving the Hepatitis A vaccine at least 3 months before travelling. You should take the malaria pill if you are planning to climb the nearby hills or volcanoes. You can also get the typhoid vaccine, and you should consider getting it if you stay with a Guatemalan family and eat there often.

If you're lucky, you don't catch any diseases in Antigua. However, visitors who stay for an extended period of time are likely to get food poisoning or bacterial or viral enteritis. The best way to treat them without a doctor's intervention is to buy rehydration solution (solucion rehidracion oral). It is a simple mixture of potassium, sodium and glucose. Mix a liter of water with the powder, and take small, multiple sips throughout the day to consume two liters or more. This will calm the intestines and prevent nausea. The next day start eating small pieces of bread, before "attacking" the body. Antibiotics do not help with food poisoning, so they are not the most appropriate treatment unless recommended by a doctor.

Most cases of food poisoning or intestinal infection are due to street vendors; but homemade meals could also be the cause due to the easy upbringing and hygiene of some Guatemalan families. Street food is cheap but should be avoided unless you are used to eating it daily. A "virgin" stomach cannot handle the common bacterial toxins found in street sauces, salads and marinades. Cooked food is probably safe to eat, but it may not be completely free of toxins. If you stay with a Guatemalan family and you see that the cook has unhygienic practices, eat bread or cereal for breakfast, and don't eat lunch or dinner.

It is best to avoid ceviche due to the potential risk of containing bacteria such as cholera. Do not consume salads due to the problem of contamination of irrigation water. There are records of people getting Hepatitis A from strawberries contaminated with irrigation water. If you want to prepare your own salad or eat strawberries, it is advisable to soak the food in water with bleach or iodine. All fruit must be washed or peeled before eating. You should avoid eating rare steaks due to the risk of parasites, unless you are going to an expensive restaurant where the quality of the steaks is assured. Avoid all kinds of sauces and creams. Walking with sandals or without shoes is normal, however walking to one of the volcanoes or to "La Cruz" without shoes or with sandals can lead to "Cutaneous Larva migrans" (CML): the larvae penetrate the skin and cause marks on the skin that itch.

Staying in cheap motels can lead to infection through Pediculosis corporis, and scabies (the human equivalent of scabies). You can get rid of Pediculosis corporis simply by changing your clothes. To treat scabies, you need two treatments with a very concentrated permethrin cream, applied from head to toe, which must be kept for 8 hours, and repeat the same treatment two weeks later. You can get pubic lice in brothels. This is treated with permethrin cream or shampoo. It is difficult to get rid of bed bugs. It is easy to find them in hotels, both cheap and expensive. It's best to keep your luggage away from your hotel bed, unless you want to take the bed bugs home or want to take them to another hotel. Check the mattress and sheets for bed bugs so they don't make your arms their next meal. If you find bedbugs, ask for another room or your money back.

 

Daily

Laundry - Laundry can be done by several laundries in the city. They weigh your clothes and charge you a price per pound. The laundry is dried and can be recovered in just 2-4 hours. It is advisable to "take inventory" of the clothes you will be taking, to ensure that no item of clothing has been lost or stolen. Two backpacks full of clothes weigh about 16 pounds.
Rapi Lavado, 6a Calle Pte No. 14, between 5th and 6th Ave Sur. (December 2005 prices), they charge Q5 per pound.
Colonial Laundry, 4th Ave North #42.
Spring Laundry, Primera Avenida Sur, near Iglesia de San Francisco

 

Leave

Antigua is a great base for exploring the rest of Guatemala. The city is full of students and you will have no problem finding a bus to any other part of the country.

Almost all travel agencies in Antigua offer tourist shuttles to La Aurora Airport in Guatemala City. Prices vary between Q40-80. The earlier buses depart at 4:00 am, in time to arrive at the airport at 5:00 am and catch a flight at 7:00 am. Queues at the airport are very long, so don't arrive too late, unless you intend to miss your flight. Arrive at least an hour or so before your flight.

There are shuttles from Antigua to Copán, which leave at 4:00 am and 9:00 am and take about six hours to reach the destination. They cost around Q80-120.

El Hato is a small village in the mountains, twenty minutes from Antigua, where you can walk through the forest and coffee plantations, and enjoy the view of the city. Buses leave from the Antigua market to El Hato (about 40 minutes, Q4) several times a day, with irregular hours.