Palau, officially the Republic of Palau (Palau Beluu er a Belau,
English Republic of Palau, Jap. パラオ共和国) is an island nation
associated with the United States in the Philippine Sea of the
Pacific Ocean, located 800 km east of the Philippines and to the
north from Indonesia.
Consists of 328 islands with a total
area of 458 km², belongs to Micronesia.
According to the
2005 census, the population of the country was about 19,907 people
(in 2008 - 20.9 thousand, an estimate for July 2014 - 21,186, 2015 -
21,271).
The main religion is Christianity (Catholics and
Protestants). About 8.7% of the population professes local beliefs,
the syncretic cult of modekngei.
The country's capital is
Ngerulmud, Melekeok State. There is an international airport.
The country consists of 16 states.
The head of the
executive branch is the president, the legislature is a bicameral
national legislative assembly (the Senate and the House of
Delegates).
The average temperature on the islands is
+24-28°C.
The name of the islands in Palau is probably derived from beluu ("village"), or from aibebelau ("indirect answers") referring to the creation myth. In English, the name "Palau" came from the Spanish. Los Palaos through it. Palau. The archaic name for the islands in English was the "Pellew Islands". "Palau" should not be confused with "Pulau", a Malay word for "island" found in several place names in the region.
Palau is an archipelago consisting of many (more than 250) islands.
The climate is tropical, the rainy season is from May to November.
1500 species of tropical fish and many rare mammals live in the
coastal waters. Also, according to environmentalists, off the coast of
Palau live 130 species of sharks from among those threatened with
extinction. In 1995, Palau was declared an underwater wonder of the
world by the International Committee of Marine Biologists and
Conservationists. Palau's tropical gardens and forests are home to
orchids and many exotic flowers, as well as about 50 species of birds.
Eil Malk Island has a popular tourist destination, Jellyfish Lake, which
is home to millions of jellyfish.
Prehistory and Early Settlement
The history of Palau, a
Pacific island nation consisting of over 340 islands in the western
Caroline Islands, begins with human settlement dating back thousands
of years. Archaeological evidence, including carbon dating from cave
burials, indicates that the islands were initially inhabited around
1000 BC, though some studies suggest migrations as early as 3,000 to
4,000 years ago. These early settlers are believed to have come from
Maritime Southeast Asia, particularly regions now part of Indonesia,
the Philippines, or New Guinea, with influences from Melanesian,
Philippine, and Polynesian peoples. This resulted in a diverse
population, with the southwest islanders (from areas like Sonsorol)
tracing their origins to canoe survivors from Ulithi Atoll, making
them culturally and linguistically distinct from mainland Palauans.
Early Palauan society was matrilineal, with land, titles, and wealth
passing through the female line—a system possibly derived from
Javanese precedents. Evidence of a pygmy population due to insular
dwarfism appears in burials from around 1000–2500 BC until about
1100 AD. Radiocarbon dates from sites like Kayangel (1st to 5th
centuries AD) and Badrulchau (AD 161) show early occupation,
including midden deposits. By the second millennium, terrace
construction on volcanic islands like Babeldaob intensified, leading
to nucleated settlements. Cultural materials from rock islands date
to 620 AD, with villages forming by 1200 AD but abandoned in the
15th century. By the 14th–15th centuries, village systems evolved,
and a structured social organization was in place by the late 16th
century. The Palauan language, an Austronesian outlier, reflects
these migrations, with no significant influx after the first
centuries AD.
Traditional Palauan life revolved around fishing,
farming (taro, yams, and bananas), and a clan-based society with
chiefs (known as rubak) holding authority. Artifacts such as stone
money (rai), though more associated with Yap, and intricate wood
carvings highlight a rich cultural heritage. The islands' isolation
fostered unique adaptations, including the famous Rock Islands,
which served as village sites and burial grounds.
European
Exploration and Contact
European contact with Palau began
sporadically in the 16th century. The islands were likely first
sighted by Europeans in 1522 during Ferdinand Magellan's
circumnavigation, when the Spanish ship Trinidad spotted two small
islands around the 5th parallel north, naming them "San Juan"
without landing. However, verifiable knowledge came on December 28,
1696, when a group of Palauans shipwrecked on Samar in the
Philippines provided descriptions to Czech missionary Paul Klein,
who drew the first map of Palau and sent a letter to Europe in June
1697. This sparked interest, leading to failed Jesuit missions in
1700, 1708, and 1709.
A more direct encounter occurred on
November 30, 1710, when a Jesuit expedition led by Francisco Padilla
visited Sonsorol, leaving priests Jacques Du Beron and Joseph Cortyl
stranded after a storm. The priests were killed and reportedly eaten
by locals, highlighting early cultural clashes. Pre-18th century
interactions were limited, mainly with Yap and Java.
The 18th
century saw increased British involvement. In 1783, the British ship
Antelope, captained by Henry Wilson, shipwrecked near Ulong in the
Rock Islands. High Chief Ibedul (also called Abba Thulle) of Koror
assisted the crew, allowing them to build a new vessel. In
gratitude, Wilson took the chief's son, Prince Lee Boo, to England
in 1784, where he died of smallpox shortly after arrival. This event
marked the beginning of sustained European intervention, with Wilson
naming the islands the "Pelew Islands." British traders became
prominent visitors, trading for bêche-de-mer (sea cucumbers) and
other resources.
Colonial Era
The 19th century brought
formal colonial claims. In 1885, Pope Leo XIII affirmed Spain's
rights over the Caroline Islands, incorporating Palau into the
Spanish East Indies, administered from the Philippines. Catholic
missions were established in Koror and Melekeok, introducing
Christianity and European education.
Following Spain's defeat in
the Spanish-American War of 1898, Palau and most of the Carolines
were sold to Germany in 1899 via the German-Spanish Treaty, becoming
part of German New Guinea. German rule focused on economic
exploitation: mining bauxite and phosphate on Angaur, developing
copra plantations, and implementing social reforms like village
relocations and public works (e.g., piers and beacons). Forced labor
was common, and a significant project included digging a ditch on
Babeldaob.
During World War I, Japan seized Palau in 1914 under
the Anglo-Japanese Alliance. Post-war, it was awarded as a Class C
League of Nations Mandate. From 1922, civilian administration under
the Nan'yō Government made Koror the capital, dubbed "little Tokyo."
Japan encouraged immigration, with Japanese, Okinawans, and Koreans
outnumbering Palauans by 1938 (15,000 vs. 6,000). Economic
activities included phosphate mining, bonito canning, copra
processing, pearl diving, and large plantations on Babeldaob.
Infrastructure improved with schools, water systems, and
electricity, but Palauans were treated as second-class citizens,
often relegated to labor roles. Cultural exchanges occurred, with
about 20% of modern Palauans having Japanese ancestry and over 1,000
Japanese loanwords in Palauan, reflecting shared values like
hospitality and environmental respect.
World War II
Palau
became a strategic battleground in World War II. From the late
1930s, Japanese restrictions intensified, with Palauans forced into
labor for defenses. In 1944, U.S. forces targeted the islands: the
Battle of Peleliu (September 15–November 25, 1944) was one of the
war's bloodiest, with over 2,000 American and 10,000 Japanese
deaths. Japanese defenses featured extensive tunnels and bunkers.
Angaur was also captured, but Koror and Babeldaob were bypassed,
subjected to air raids instead. Bombings caused starvation and
disease; fewer than 5,000 Palauans survived the war, and some
adopted orphaned Japanese children. All Japanese were repatriated
post-war. Sunken warships and aircraft remnants remain, and efforts
continue to recover missing U.S. servicemen (about 100) through
groups like the BentProp Project. Japanese civilians were evacuated
before major fighting, but the battles devastated infrastructure and
killed many.
Post-War US Administration
After Japan's
surrender, Palau became part of the United Nations Trust Territory
of the Pacific Islands (TTPI) in 1947, administered by the United
States. Initially, a "zoo policy" minimized development to preserve
culture, but this shifted in the 1960s–1970s with Peace Corps
volunteers, technical aid, and infrastructure projects like roads
and schools. The U.S. used the islands as a military base.
In
1979, four TTPI districts formed the Federated States of Micronesia,
but Palau opted out for separate independence. A 1978 referendum
confirmed this path.
Path to Independence
Palau approved
its constitution in 1981 and signed a Compact of Free Association
with the U.S. in 1982. However, ratification required eight
referendums and a constitutional amendment due to debates over
nuclear policies (Palau's constitution banned nuclear materials).
The Compact was finally ratified in 1993 with 68% approval, entering
force on October 1, 1994, after de facto independence on May 25,
1994. Under the Compact, the U.S. provides defense for 50 years,
financial aid (over $500 million initially), and allows
nuclear-capable vessels. Palau joined the United Nations in December
1994.
Early independence was turbulent: President Haruo Remeliik
was assassinated in 1985, and Lazarus Salii died by suicide in 1988
amid scandals. Japan provided significant post-war aid, funding
infrastructure like roads, water systems, and patrol vessels,
fostering strong ties without resentment.
Modern Palau
Since independence, Palau has focused on tourism, environmental
conservation (e.g., designating 80% of its waters as a marine
sanctuary), and economic diversification. The capital moved from
Koror to Ngerulmud in Melekeok on Babeldaob in 2006. Immigration
from the Philippines has grown, with foreigners comprising over
one-fourth of the population by the early 21st century. Palauans
have migrated to Guam, Hawaii, and the U.S. West Coast. The economy
relies on U.S. aid, with the dollar as currency and no central bank;
it joined the IMF in 1997. Legislation in 1998 made it an offshore
financial center, with anti-money laundering laws in 2001.
Recent
presidents include Tommy Remengesau (2001–2009, 2013–2021) and
Surangel Whipps Jr. (elected 2020). Cultural ties with Japan
persist, with Japanese tourism (though declined post-pandemic) and
repatriation efforts for war remains, including visits by Emperor
Akihito in 2015. Palau remains committed to peace, environmental
protection, and international partnerships.
Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an archipelago nation
situated in the western Pacific Ocean. It forms the westernmost part of
the Caroline Islands chain and consists of approximately 340 islands,
though many are small atolls or islets. The total land area is about 459
square kilometers (177 square miles), making it one of the smallest
countries in the world by landmass. Despite its modest size, Palau's
exclusive economic zone spans over 600,000 square kilometers of ocean,
highlighting its vast maritime domain.
Palau shares maritime
boundaries with international waters to the north, the Federated States
of Micronesia to the east, Indonesia to the south, and the Philippines
to the northwest.
The islands are divided into several key groups.
The main cluster includes the largest island, Babeldaob (also spelled
Babelthuap), which hosts the capital, Ngerulmud, in Melekeok State.
Nearby are the populous islands of Koror (the economic center and former
capital, home to about two-thirds of Palau's population), Peleliu, and
Angaur. These are encircled by a shared barrier reef. To the north lies
the coral atoll of Kayangel. West of the main group are the famous Rock
Islands, a collection of around 200 uninhabited limestone formations
rising dramatically from the sea, known for their mushroom-like shapes
and turquoise lagoons. Further southwest, extending about 604 kilometers
(375 miles) from the main islands, are the remote Southwest Islands,
including the states of Hatohobei and Sonsorol, which are sparsely
populated and consist of small atolls and islets.
Geographically,
Palau straddles the equator, with coordinates roughly between 7°30'N
latitude and 134°30'E longitude. It lies on the edge of the Philippine
Sea to the west and the broader Pacific Ocean to the east. The
archipelago's formation is volcanic and coral in origin, with Babeldaob
featuring volcanic hills and ridges, while many smaller islands are
uplifted coral reefs or atolls.
Terrain and Physical Features
Palau's terrain varies significantly across its islands. Babeldaob, the
largest at about 331 square kilometers, is characterized by rolling
hills, dense forests, and mangrove swamps along its coasts. Its highest
point is Mount Ngerchelchuus at 242 meters (794 feet) above sea level.
The island's interior includes rivers, waterfalls, and savannas, with
laterite soils that support agriculture in some areas.
The Rock
Islands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2012, are perhaps Palau's
most iconic feature. These ancient coral reefs, uplifted by tectonic
activity, form a labyrinth of over 200 mushroom-shaped islets covered in
lush vegetation. They enclose marine lakes, such as the famous Jellyfish
Lake, where non-stinging jellyfish thrive in isolated ecosystems. The
surrounding lagoons are shallow and protected by barrier reefs, creating
ideal conditions for coral growth and biodiversity.
Southern islands
like Peleliu and Angaur are flatter, with sandy beaches, phosphate
deposits (historically mined), and remnants of World War II
battlefields. Peleliu, in particular, has rugged karst landscapes with
caves and sinkholes. The Southwest Islands are low-lying atolls,
vulnerable to sea-level rise, with minimal elevation—often just a few
meters above sea level—and fringed by coral reefs.
Overall, Palau has
no significant land boundaries, but its coastline stretches about 1,519
kilometers (944 miles), dominated by mangroves, beaches, and reefs.
Natural hazards include occasional earthquakes due to its position near
tectonic plates, volcanic activity (though inactive in recent history),
and tropical storms.
Climate
Palau enjoys a tropical
rainforest climate, classified as Af under the Köppen system, with
consistently warm temperatures, high humidity, and abundant rainfall
year-round. The annual mean temperature hovers around 28°C (82°F), with
minimal seasonal variation—daily highs typically reach 31°C (88°F) and
lows around 24°C (75°F). Humidity averages 82%, contributing to a steamy
atmosphere.
Rainfall is heavy, totaling about 3,800 millimeters (150
inches) annually, distributed fairly evenly but peaking between June and
October during the wetter monsoon season. Even in drier months, showers
are common, and the islands receive ample sunshine, averaging over 2,300
hours per year. Palau sits on the periphery of the typhoon belt, where
tropical disturbances form, but major cyclones are infrequent. Notable
typhoons that have affected the area include Mike (1990), Bopha (2012),
and Haiyan (2013), which brought strong winds, heavy rain, and storm
surges.
The population is 20.9 thousand (July 2010 estimate).
Annual
increase - 0.4% (fertility - 1.73 births per woman).
The average
life expectancy is 68 years for men, 75 years for women.
Literacy
- 92%.
Ethnic composition: Palau - 72.5% (14,438 people),
Filipinos - 16.3% (3253 people), Chinese - 1.6% (317 people), Vietnamese
- 1.6% (321 people). ), other Asians - 3.4% (675 people), whites - 0.9%
(186 people), Carolinians - 1.0% (197 people), other Micronesians - 2.4%
(470 people). ), others - 0.3% (50 people) (according to the 2005
census).
Languages: Palau (state) - 62.1% (12,354 people),
English - 14.4% (2871 people), Filipino languages - 10.0% (2000
people), Chinese - 1.7% ( 331 people), other languages (according to
the 2005 census). The official languages are Palauan and English. In
some states, other languages have official status: Sonsorola and
English in Sonsorola, Tobi and English in Hatohobei, Palau, Japanese and
English in Angaura.
According to the 2005 census, the majority of believers are Catholics 49.4% (9825 people), Protestants - 23.2% (4610 people), Seventh-day Adventists - 5.3% (1046 people) and followers of the Modekngey religion - 8, 7% (1733 people). Followers of other religious movements (Mormons, Jehovah's Witnesses) are few in number (according to the 2005 census).
Palau is a republic. The head of state and government is the
president, elected by the population for a 4-year term (re-election for
a second consecutive term is acceptable).
The Parliament of Palau
is bicameral and consists of the Senate (13 members elected by the
people for 4 years) and the House of Delegates (16 members elected by
the people for 4 years).
There are no political parties.
There are no armed forces.
The country retains, along with the
official, traditional institutions of power, there are leaders of the
northern and southern territories of Palau. The leader of the southern
territory, which includes the most developed island of Koror, whose
title sounds like Ibedul, is usually considered the "king" of all Palau.
The chiefs interact with the official authorities through the Council of
Chiefs, an official advisory body.
Diplomatic relations between Russia and
Palau were established on August 8, 2006.
On November 28 of the
same 2006 in New York, the permanent representatives of the Russian
Federation and the Republic of Palau to the UN - Vitaly Churkin and
Stuart Beck - signed a joint statement on the establishment of
diplomatic relations between the two countries at the level of
ambassadors. The Russian Ambassador to Palau is concurrently the
Ambassador to the Philippines. Palau's interests in Russia are
represented by the US Embassy.
Israel was the first non-Pacific country to establish diplomatic relations with Palau since that country's independence in 1994. Israel voted for the admission of Palau to the UN and offered financial assistance to the state. The Israeli Foreign Ministry organized trips of agricultural and fishing specialists to Palau to educate and train the local population. The Israeli Embassy is located in Koror.
The basis of Palau's economy is tourism (85 thousand tourists
in 2007, in 2016 - 150,000 tourists, which is 70% more than in 2010),
fishing, art crafts. In agriculture, coconut palm and tapioca are
cultivated.
The volume of GDP is $ 250 million (in 2017), mainly
provided by subsidies from the United States. GDP per capita - 8.1
thousand dollars (119th place in the world).
In 2016, the volume
of imports amounted to 185.3 million dollars, exports - 24.1 million
dollars, the negative balance of foreign trade amounted to almost 161.2
million dollars.
Export goods for 2016 are fish and seafood (up
to 60% of the value), ships and boats (up to 31% of the value). Imports
- oil products (about 13% of the value), passenger and cargo ships
(about 11% of the value), other engineering products, fish and other
food products, medicines.
Main export trading partners in 2016:
Japan ($14.1 million) - 58%, Greece ($7.4 million) - 31%, USA ($1.27
million) - 5.2%. The main trading partners for imports in 2016: the USA
(61.8 million dollars) - 33%, Japan (36.2 million dollars) - 19%,
Singapore (17 million dollars) - 9.1%.
The monetary unit is the
US dollar.
It is a member of the international organization of
African, Caribbean and Pacific countries.
The Palau Islands have long served as a source of stone mining for the manufacture (issue) of a special monetary unit - the rai of the Yap Islands. There was no suitable material on Yap itself, so rai stones were made in Palau and delivered by rafts to Yap. Often, when transporting multi-ton money, people died, but this circumstance significantly increased the cost of the stone. The stones that sank during transportation and lay on the bottom of the sea also participated in all financial transactions, just like those that were on land.