Location: Mahdia Governorate Map
When: October- April
El Djem (also spelled El Jem), located in eastern Tunisia, is a small town renowned for its remarkably well-preserved Roman amphitheater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. This ancient structure, one of the most impressive Roman monuments in Africa, draws visitors from around the world and offers a window into the region’s rich historical and cultural tapestry.
El Djem, known in antiquity as Thysdrus, was a thriving city in the
Roman province of Africa Proconsularis. Situated in what is now
Tunisia’s Mahdia Governorate, Thysdrus benefited from its strategic
location in a fertile region ideal for olive cultivation. By the 2nd and
3rd centuries CE, the city grew wealthy from olive oil production,
becoming one of the most prosperous cities in Roman North Africa. This
wealth funded the construction of monumental architecture, most notably
the grand amphitheater.
The town’s prominence peaked during the
Roman period, but its history stretches further back. Before Roman rule,
the area was influenced by Punic (Carthaginian) culture, following the
Phoenician settlement of the Tunisian coast. After the fall of Carthage
in 146 BCE, the region came under Roman control, and Thysdrus emerged as
a key economic hub. Following the decline of the Roman Empire, Thysdrus
waned in importance, but the amphitheater and other remnants endured,
later incorporated into the medieval and modern town of El Djem.
The Amphitheater of El Djem, often compared to Rome’s Colosseum, is
the town’s centerpiece and one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters
in the world. Constructed in the late 2nd to early 3rd century CE (circa
238 CE), it reflects the grandeur of Roman engineering and the wealth of
Thysdrus.
Architecture and Design
Size and Capacity: The
amphitheater measures approximately 148 meters long, 122 meters wide,
and 36 meters high, with a capacity of up to 35,000 spectators, making
it the third-largest Roman amphitheater after the Colosseum in Rome and
the amphitheater of Capua. Its oval shape and tiered seating are typical
of Roman design.
Materials: Built primarily of local limestone, the
structure features three stories of arches (60 per level) framed by
Corinthian and Composite columns. The stone was quarried nearby, and the
precision of the masonry highlights Roman architectural expertise.
Features: The arena floor, now partially exposed, included underground
chambers (hypogea) where gladiators, animals, and props were staged.
Trapdoors allowed dramatic entrances during spectacles. The seating was
divided into sections based on social class, with the best views
reserved for elites.
State of Preservation: Unlike many Roman
structures, El Djem’s amphitheater remains largely intact, though some
damage occurred over centuries. In the 17th century, parts of the
structure were used as a quarry, and in 1695, Ottoman forces bombarded
it to dislodge rebels hiding inside, creating a large breach in one
wall. Despite this, much of the original structure stands, offering a
vivid sense of its original scale.
Function
The amphitheater
hosted gladiatorial contests, animal hunts (venationes), and public
spectacles, reflecting Roman entertainment culture. These events were
funded by wealthy local patrons to gain political favor and demonstrate
Thysdrus’ prosperity. The amphitheater’s size suggests it served not
only the city but also the wider region, drawing crowds from surrounding
areas.
Historical Significance
The amphitheater is tied to a
notable historical event: in 238 CE, Thysdrus was the site of a revolt
against Roman Emperor Maximinus Thrax, sparked by heavy taxation. The
local elite proclaimed Gordian I as emperor, marking the start of the
“Year of the Six Emperors.” The amphitheater, completed around this
time, may have been a symbol of the city’s ambition and defiance.
Beyond the amphitheater, El Djem is home to other archaeological
treasures that illuminate its Roman past:
Roman Villas:
Excavations around El Djem have uncovered luxurious villas with
intricate mosaics, many now housed in the El Djem Archaeological Museum
(located near the amphitheater). These mosaics depict mythological
scenes, daily life, and hunting, showcasing the wealth and
sophistication of Thysdrus’ elite. Notable examples include the “Peacock
Mosaic” and scenes of Dionysus.
Smaller Amphitheater: A second,
older, and smaller amphitheater exists in El Djem, dating to the 1st
century CE, though it is less well-preserved.
Roman Infrastructure:
Remnants of roads, aqueducts, and public buildings indicate Thysdrus was
a well-planned urban center. The grid-like street layout and drainage
systems reflect Roman urban planning.
Punic and Byzantine Remains:
Traces of pre-Roman Punic structures and later Byzantine fortifications
highlight the site’s long history of occupation.
The El Djem
Archaeological Museum, established in 1970, is a must-visit for
understanding the site’s context. It displays artifacts such as pottery,
statues, and inscriptions, alongside the renowned mosaics, which rival
those of Tunisia’s Bardo Museum.
Today, El Djem is a quiet town of about 20,000 residents, a stark contrast to its bustling Roman past. The amphitheater dominates the skyline, and the town’s economy relies heavily on tourism, agriculture (especially olive and date production), and small-scale trade. The modern town is built around the ancient site, with narrow streets and traditional Tunisian architecture blending with the Roman ruins.
Visiting the Amphitheater: The amphitheater is open to visitors
year-round, with guided tours available. Visitors can explore the arena,
underground chambers, and upper tiers, enjoying panoramic views of the
town and surrounding plains. The site is particularly striking at
sunrise or sunset.
International Festival of Symphonic Music: Since
1985, the amphitheater has hosted this annual summer festival
(July–August), where international orchestras perform classical and
contemporary music. The acoustics of the ancient structure enhance the
experience, blending history with modern culture.
Film Location: The
amphitheater’s dramatic setting has made it a backdrop for films,
including scenes in Monty Python’s Life of Brian (1979), where it stood
in for a Roman arena.
Local Life
El Djem retains a traditional
Tunisian character, with markets (souks) selling local crafts, spices,
and produce. Cafés and small restaurants near the amphitheater serve
Tunisian dishes like brik, couscous, and harissa-spiced stews. The
town’s residents are known for their hospitality, and many locals are
proud of their Roman heritage.
The amphitheater of El Djem is a powerful symbol of Tunisia’s layered
history, reflecting Phoenician, Punic, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and
modern influences. It underscores the region’s role as a crossroads of
Mediterranean civilizations. For Tunisians, the site is a source of
national pride, showcasing the country’s contribution to global
heritage.
The structure also highlights the enduring legacy of
Roman engineering. Its survival through centuries of invasions, neglect,
and reuse (as a fortress, quarry, and refuge) speaks to its robust
construction and cultural resilience. UNESCO’s designation recognizes
its universal value as a testament to human creativity and history.
Location: El Djem is 210 km southeast of Tunis, 60 km from Sousse,
and 30 km from Mahdia. It’s accessible by car, bus, or louage (shared
taxi) from major Tunisian cities.
Getting There: The town is on the
main coastal railway, with trains from Tunis, Sousse, and Sfax. Driving
offers flexibility, with well-maintained roads and parking near the
amphitheater.
Best Time to Visit: Spring (March–May) and autumn
(September–November) offer mild weather. Summer is hot (up to
40°C/104°F), but the music festival is a draw. Winter is cooler but less
crowded.
Tickets: Entry to the amphitheater costs around 12 TND
(approx. $4 USD, 2025 rates), with discounts for students. A combined
ticket includes the museum.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for uneven
stone surfaces, bring water, and consider a guide for historical
context. Photography is allowed, and drones are permitted with prior
approval.
The amphitheater faces threats from weathering, tourism pressure, and urban encroachment. Tunisia’s government, with UNESCO and international partners, has undertaken restoration efforts to stabilize the structure and protect mosaics. However, funding constraints and political instability in the region occasionally hinder conservation. Visitors are encouraged to respect the site by avoiding climbing on fragile areas or littering.