Kirirom National Park, officially named Preah Suramarit-Kossamak Kirirom National Park, is Cambodia’s first designated national park, established in 1993. Located primarily in Phnom Sruoch District, Kampong Speu Province, with a smaller section in Koh Kong Province, it spans approximately 35,000 hectares (86,487 acres) in the eastern Cardamom Mountains. Situated at a mean elevation of 675 meters (2,215 feet), the park is known for its unique pine forests, cascading waterfalls, diverse wildlife, and cool climate, earning the name “Happiness Mountain” from King Monivong in the 1930s. Historically a retreat for Cambodian elites and a Khmer Rouge hideout, Kirirom today is a haven for ecotourism, offering hiking, birdwatching, and cultural exploration.
Kirirom National Park’s history reflects Cambodia’s
cultural, colonial, and turbulent past, evolving from a sacred natural
site to a protected reserve.
Pre-Colonial and Early Significance:
The park’s ancient name, Phnom Vorvong Sorvong, derives from a Khmer
legend about two princely brothers, Vorvong and Sorvong, whose heroic
deeds are tied to the region’s two main hills. The Cardamom Mountains,
including Kirirom, were revered by Khmer communities for their spiritual
significance and abundant resources, such as resin and timber, traded
regionally as early as the 15th century.
Colonial and Royal Era
(1930s–1960s): In the 1930s, King Monivong named the area Kirirom,
meaning “Happiness Mountain,” reflecting its serene beauty. During the
French colonial period, Kirirom served as a retreat for elites, with
grand villas built for respite from lowland heat, similar to Bokor Hill
Station. King Norodom Sihanouk constructed a royal residence in the
1950s, and the area became a playground for Cambodia’s wealthy, hosting
social gatherings amid pine forests. Construction faced challenges from
Khmer Issarak guerrillas until the 1960s, delaying full development.
Khmer Rouge and Civil War (1970s–1990s): The park was abandoned during
the Cambodian Civil War (1967–1975) and became a Khmer Rouge refuge in
the 1970s, with its forests providing cover for guerrilla operations.
The royal villas and infrastructure fell into ruin, and landmines posed
dangers until the mid-1990s, when the area was cleared for public
access. The Khmer Rouge’s presence persisted into the 1990s, delaying
conservation efforts.
National Park Establishment (1993–Present): In
1993, Kirirom was designated Cambodia’s first national park under King
Sihanouk’s reign, named after his parents, Preah Suramarit and Kossamak,
to protect its pine forests and wildlife. Part of the “Southwest Cluster
Protected Areas” (including Bokor, Preah Sihanouk, and Kep National
Parks), it aimed to balance conservation with ecotourism. Recent
developments, such as the vKirirom Pine Resort (2010s) and ecotourism
initiatives in nearby Chambok village, have revitalized the park, though
luxury villas and resorts have sparked concerns about environmental
impact.
Kirirom National Park is located 112–117 km southwest
of Phnom Penh, accessible via National Highway 4, halfway between Phnom
Penh and Sihanoukville. It rises from the flat rice fields and mango
plantations of Kampong Speu to a high-altitude plateau at 700 meters,
offering a stark contrast to Cambodia’s tropical lowlands.
Landscape:
Terrain: The park features rolling hills, steep cliffs,
and a plateau dominated by Pinus merkusii pine forests, unique to
Cambodia. The landscape includes wooded valleys, rocky outcrops, and
panoramic viewpoints like Phnom Srong, offering sweeping vistas of the
Cardamom Mountains and distant plains.
Water Bodies: Kirirom
Waterfall, the park’s main attraction, cascades through pine forests,
with smaller falls like Chambok Waterfall (10 km away) accessible via a
40-minute trek. Lakes, streams, and artificial ponds feed Kampong Speu’s
water systems, supporting agriculture. The wet season (May–October)
enhances waterfall flow, creating swimmable pools.
Climate: The
park’s elevation ensures a cool climate, with temperatures ranging from
15–25°C (59–77°F), 10°C cooler than Phnom Penh. The dry season
(November–April) offers clear skies and dry trails, ideal for hiking,
while the monsoon season (May–October, 150–200 inches of rainfall)
brings lush greenery but muddy paths and fog.
Ecological Context:
Spanning 35,000 hectares, Kirirom is part of the Cardamom Mountains’
rainforest ecoregion, one of Southeast Asia’s largest unexplored
forests. Its eastern slopes, in the rain shadow, receive 1,000–1,500 mm
of rainfall annually, supporting pine and mixed deciduous forests,
distinct from the wetter western slopes’ tropical rainforests. The
park’s water systems are headwaters for Kampong Speu, highlighting its
ecological role.
Kirirom National Park hosts a diverse but threatened
ecosystem, with over 450 bird species, numerous mammals, reptiles, and
amphibians, though poaching and logging have reduced populations.
Flora:
Dominant Species: The park’s hallmark is its Tenasserim
pine forest (Pinus merkusii), covering much of the plateau, a rarity in
Cambodia’s tropical landscape. Mixed deciduous trees, wild orchids, and
medicinal plants like wildflowers thrive, supporting pollinators and
traditional medicine.
Conservation Efforts: Reforestation with native
pines aims to restore logged areas, but non-native species like
eucalyptus, introduced for timber, disrupt ecosystems. The park’s flora
supports ecotourism, with orchid-spotting tours popular.
Fauna:
Mammals: Historical populations included Asian elephants, tigers,
leopards, pileated gibbons, sun bears, pangolins, and silvered langurs,
but most are extinct or critically endangered due to poaching. Current
species include rhesus macaques, gold jackals, small Indian civets, and
porcupines, with rare sightings of dholes.
Birds: Over 450 species,
half of Cambodia’s total, inhabit Kirirom, including four endemics:
chestnut-headed partridge, Lewis’s silver pheasant, green peafowl, and
Siamese partridge. Hornbills and tailorbirds are common, with
birdwatching tours offered seasonally.
Reptiles and Amphibians:
Pythons, checkered keelbacks, Flower’s long-headed lizard (endemic), and
Vogel’s pit viper are present, alongside amphibians like the spot-legged
tree frog. A 2007 survey by Fauna and Flora International discovered new
species, such as the Cnemaspis neangthyi gecko.
Challenges: Poaching
for bushmeat and traditional medicine, as noted in a 2015 Tripadvisor
review offering “forest animal” for lunch, threatens wildlife.
Deforestation has fragmented habitats, driving animals deeper into
forests, especially during crowded weekends.
Ecological Role:
Kirirom’s forests sequester carbon, and its streams sustain Kampong
Speu’s agriculture. The park’s “silent zone” aims to protect wildlife,
but enforcement is weak, and the 2016 ranger program has had limited
impact.
Kirirom National Park is accessible via National
Highway 4, a 2–3-hour drive (112 km) from Phnom Penh or 3–4 hours from
Sihanoukville. Its infrastructure supports hiking, camping, and cultural
exploration, though facilities are basic compared to Angkor or Bokor.
Access:
By Bus: Buses from Phnom Penh’s main station (e.g., VET
Air Bus Express) or Sihanoukville cost $5–10 and take 2–4 hours,
dropping at the Kirirom junction. From there, tuk-tuks or motos ($5–10)
cover the final 10 km. Three daily VET buses from Phnom Penh were noted
in a 2025 Reddit post.
By Taxi/Car: Taxis ($30–80 round-trip) or
rental cars ($20–50/day) offer comfort and flexibility, taking 2–2.5
hours from Phnom Penh. The road becomes bumpy past the junction,
requiring cautious driving.
By Motorbike: Rentals from Phnom Penh
($10–15/day) are popular, but the winding, sometimes muddy road demands
skill, especially in the wet season. A 2025 Reddit user noted safety
concerns for non-riders.
Entry Fee: $5 per person (foreigners), with
Cambodians entering free. Some sources mention $1–2 for locals or no
fee, reflecting inconsistent enforcement.
Key Attractions:
Kirirom Waterfall: The park’s centerpiece, a multi-tiered cascade
surrounded by pine forests, offers swimmable pools in the wet season
(July–October). Bamboo huts and platforms provide picnic spots, though
2023 reviews noted overcrowding and litter. Smaller falls, like Chambok
Waterfall (3 km trek, $3 entry), are quieter.
Phnom Srong Viewpoint:
A cliff offering panoramic views of the Cardamom Mountains and valleys,
ideal for sunrise/sunset. The site, praised for its “breathtaking”
vistas in 2025 reviews, is a 30-minute hike from the main road.
New
Pagoda: A recently built Buddhist temple, described as the “most
beautiful” spot in 2023 Tripadvisor reviews, features colorful statues
and serene surroundings, attracting pilgrims and tourists.
Royal
Villa Ruins: Abandoned residences of King Sihanouk and other elites,
including Preah Kosamak town, dot the plateau. A 2019 visitor center
near a ruined mansion with a multi-part chimney showcases conservation
efforts, though the deck is unsafe, per a 2023 review.
Chambok
Ecotourism Site: Adjacent to the park, this community-based project
offers a 4 km trek to Chambok Waterfall, ox-cart rides, and homestays
($10–20/night). It promotes sustainable tourism, with activities like
birdwatching and village interactions.
Recreational Facilities:
Hiking/Trekking: Over a dozen trails (1–5 miles) range from easy walks
to Kirirom Falls to challenging treks to Phnom Srong. The 2023 Arise
Cambodia guide lists routes through pine forests and viewpoints, but
signage is poor, necessitating guides ($10–20).
Camping: Designated
campsites with tents ($5–8/night) or wooden shelters offer starry nights
amid pines. The Camping Park Resort in Ou Bak Roteh provides 150 mobile
tents, 15 family tents, and treehouses ($20–50/night), with campfires
and a restaurant. Litter from campers, noted in 2025 reviews, is a
concern.
Birdwatching: Guided tours ($10–20) target endemic species
like the chestnut-headed partridge, best in early morning. Binoculars
are recommended, per 2023 reviews.
Boating/Kayaking: Boat trips on
park lakes ($5–10/hour) offer mountain views, while kayaking is
available through resorts like vKirirom.
Mountain Biking: Trails suit
experienced riders, with rentals ($10–15/day) at Kirirom Pine Resort. A
2025 review praised the “adrenaline rush” of biking through pines.
Amenities: The visitor center (2019) offers displays on flora/fauna but
is small and crowded. Stalls sell snacks ($1–3), but no full restaurants
exist; visitors should bring food, as advised in 2023 Holidify. Toilets
(small fee), basic shelters, and hammocks are available near waterfalls.
Resorts like Kirirom Hillside ($30–50/night) and Romdoul/Romheouy
($50–100, mountain views) provide modern lodging. No ATMs are present;
cash (USD or KHR) is required.
Kirirom National Park holds cultural and spiritual
importance as a former elite retreat and a natural sanctuary, though its
modern role centers on ecotourism.
Cultural Role: The park’s
name, “Happiness Mountain,” and its Vorvong-Sorvong legend tie it to
Khmer folklore, while the new pagoda and Buddhist shrines draw pilgrims,
especially during Khmer New Year (April) and Pchum Ben. The royal villas
and French-era ruins evoke Cambodia’s colonial and monarchical past,
though they lack the prominence of Bokor’s hill station.
Community
Impact: The park serves Kampong Speu’s 900,000 residents and attracts
50,000–100,000 annual visitors, generating $250,000–500,000 in ticket
revenue ($5/foreigner). Chambok’s ecotourism employs locals as guides
and homestay hosts, boosting incomes (~$1,200/year), but benefits are
uneven, with resorts like vKirirom favoring urban investors.
Conservation Narrative: As Cambodia’s first national park, Kirirom
symbolizes early conservation efforts, but poaching, logging, and arson,
as noted in 2023 Rough Guides, threaten its integrity. Community
projects and ranger patrols (since 2016) aim to curb destruction, yet
enforcement lags, reflecting Cambodia’s broader conservation struggles.
Kirirom National Park faces significant challenges
that undermine its ecological and touristic potential, mirroring issues
in Cambodia’s protected areas.
Deforestation and Logging: Illegal
logging, driven by timber demand and agricultural expansion, has
degraded 20–30% of the park’s forests, particularly in the north. The
2023 Holidify noted villa and resort construction (e.g., vKirirom)
encroaching on pine forests, fragmenting habitats.
Wildlife Decline:
Poaching for bushmeat and medicine has decimated large mammals
(elephants, tigers, gibbons), with only smaller species like macaques
common. Bird populations, though diverse (450+ species), are retreating
due to noise, as 2023 Tripadvisor reviews reported animals fleeing on
crowded Sundays.
Tourism Pressure: High visitation (100,000 annually,
peaking Sundays) causes litter, with 2025 reviews decrying garbage piles
and burnt waste at campsites. Overcrowded waterfalls and platforms,
noted in 2015 reviews, disrupt tranquility and wildlife. The $5 fee is
affordable but underfunds maintenance (~$100,000/year).
Infrastructure Gaps: The bumpy access road, described as “slippery” in
2015 reviews, delays visits, with a 2023 tour taking 3.5 hours from
Phnom Penh (2 hours planned). Poor trail signage and no park map, raised
in 2023 reviews, hinder exploration. Limited amenities (no restaurants,
few toilets) force reliance on external supplies.
Cultural
Preservation: Royal ruins and the visitor center are neglected, with the
mansion’s deck “dangerously” decayed (2023 review). The new pagoda
overshadows historical sites, and no archaeological focus, unlike Phnom
Kulen, limits cultural tourism.
Equity Concerns: The $5 fee and
transport costs ($20–80) exclude low-income Cambodians, despite free
local entry. Economic benefits favor resorts over villages like Oamrei
Phong (median income ~$1,000/year). Chambok’s ecotourism is a model but
small-scale.
Strengths:
Unique pine forests and cool climate
(15–25°C), rare in Cambodia.
Diverse activities: hiking, camping,
birdwatching, and waterfall swimming.
Accessible from Phnom Penh (2–3
hours, $5 entry) with ecotourism potential.
Cultural significance via
royal history and Buddhist shrines.
Opportunities:
Expanding
Chambok-style ecotourism to more villages.
Reforestation with native
pines and wildlife reintroduction.
Developing a visitor center with
maps and guided tours.
Promoting off-peak visits (weekdays, dry
season) to reduce crowds.
Kirirom National Park offers a refreshing escape from
Phnom Penh’s heat, with pine forests, waterfalls, and cultural sites,
best as a day or overnight trip. Its “Mediterranean” vibe, per a 2023
review, captivates, though crowds and litter can detract.
Highlights:
Kirirom Waterfall: A scenic cascade with picnic huts,
ideal for swimming in the wet season. A 2023 reviewer praised its
“picturesque” setting, though platforms crowd the view. Chambok
Waterfall offers a quieter trek.
Phnom Srong Viewpoint: Stunning
sunrise/sunset views of the Cardamoms, a 30-minute hike. A 2025 review
called it “breathtaking” for photography.
Pine Forests: Trails
through pines, evoking Europe, are meditative, with birdwatching for
hornbills and tailorbirds. A 2023 review noted “peaceful” silence.
New Pagoda: A colorful Buddhist site, the “most beautiful” per 2023
reviews, with serene vibes and monk-led rituals.
Royal Ruins: The
visitor center and Sihanouk’s villa ruins offer historical intrigue,
though the decayed deck requires caution.
Activities:
Hiking/Trekking: Trails (1–5 miles) suit all levels, with Kirirom Falls
and Phnom Srong accessible. Guides ($10–20) are recommended, per 2023
Arise Cambodia.
Camping: Campsites ($5–8) or Camping Park Resort’s
tents/treehouses ($20–50) offer starry nights. A 2025 reviewer loved the
“fantastic campfires.”
Birdwatching: Early morning tours ($10–20)
target endemic species, with binoculars advised.
Boating: Lake boat
trips ($5–10) provide mountain views, available via resorts.
Tips:
Best Time: November–February for dry trails and cool weather
(15–20°C). Wet season (July–October) enhances waterfalls but muddies
paths. Avoid Sundays for fewer crowds, per 2023 Tripadvisor.
Essentials: Bring water, snacks, sunscreen, insect repellent, sturdy
shoes, and cash (no ATMs). Modest attire (shoulders/knees covered)
respects pagoda etiquette.
Safety: Trails are slippery in the wet
season; a 2015 reviewer noted muddy roads. Wildlife like pythons is rare
near tourist areas. The park suits ages 5+ and fit seniors, per 2023
reviews.
Planning: Book tours ($30–100) or transport in Phnom Penh
(e.g., Cambo Tours, Green Era Travel). Motorbikes or cars offer
flexibility; confirm bus schedules (3 daily, $5–10). A half-day (4–6
hours) covers main sites, but camping adds depth.
Visitor Feedback:
2025 Tripadvisor reviews praise the “nice view” from cliffs, “great
sunset,” and “unique” pine forests, recommending it as a “must-visit”
escape. However, complaints about litter, “small streams” instead of
“majestic waterfalls,” and Sunday crowds (2023 reviews) highlight
management issues. A 2025 Reddit user lauded Romheouy Resort’s
“magnificent” mountain views.