Khajuraho Archaeological Site

Khajuraho Archaeological Site

Location: Chhatarpur District Map

Closed: Aug- Sept

MP Tourism Chandela Cultural Center

(07686) 27 4051

Description of Khajuraho Archaeological Site

Khajuraho Archaeological Site

Khajuraho is a massive religious complex situated in Chhatarpur District in India. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Khajuraho Archaeological Site was constructed in the 10th and 11th centuries during rule of the Chandela dynasty. Legend claim that the original founder of the dynasty was son of Hemavati (young daughter of Brahmin priest) and moon god. Pregnant woman was forced to venture deep into a forest of a central India. There a boy was born and raised. Eventually he became a leader of a large regional empire. In total where were about 85 temples constructed in the country's capital, although about quarter of the original structures remain standing. Its original name is derived from Kharjuravāhaka which means "date palm" (Kharjura- Phoenix dactylifera) and "one who carries" (vāhaka). It is famous for beautiful carved statues in poses that were probably derived from reading Kama Sutra. The site went into decline in the 13th century and re- discovered in 1838 by a British army engineer Captain T.S. Burt.

 

To know

Khajuraho is a small town famous for its Hindu and Jain temple groups. These temples are a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their beautiful and erotic rock carvings. Khajuraho art is a manifestation of the essence of Indian philosophy and aesthetics. Khajuraho's erotic sculptures depicting the Kama Sutra are unique in the world.

These sculptures representing Indo-Aryan architecture, freeze in stone a lyrical hymn to love and passion and reflect the Chandela dynasty's immense appreciation for the forbidden art, paradoxically, in the land of the Kama Sutra. Not to be passed off as simple erotic sculptures, the temples represent some of Hinduism's most revered deities.

 

Geographical notes

Khajuraho has the Vindhya mountain range as a beautiful backdrop. Khajuraho is located 55 kilometers south of Mahoba, 47 kilometers from Chhatarpur town in the east, 43 kilometers from Panna, 175 kilometers by road from Jhansi in the north and 600 kilometers south-east of Delhi.

 

When to go

Khajuraho's climate is quite extreme, with wide variations in day and night temperatures along with minimal rainfall. Summers are hot at 45°C and winters are extremely pleasant at 27°C. Precipitation of 14 cm is observed every year. Since summer is too hot, winter is a good time to visit. So September to March is the best time to visit Khajuraho.

 

Background

The name Khajuraho, or Kharjuravāhaka, comes from ancient Sanskrit (kharjura, meaning date palm, and vāhaka, वाहक meaning "he who brings" or bearer). Local legends state that the temples had two golden date palms (missing when rediscovered) as their gateway. Desai states that Kharjuravāhaka also means "scorpion-bearer", which is another symbolic name for the deity Shiva (who wears snakes and scorpion garlands in his ferocious form).

The Khajuraho group of monuments was built during the rule of the Chandela dynasty. Construction activity began almost immediately after their rise to power in their kingdom then known as Bundelkhand. Most of the temples were built during the reigns of Hindu kings Yashovarman and Dhanga.

The first documented mention of Khajuraho was made in 641 by Xuánzàng, a Chinese pilgrim who described encountering several dozen inactive Buddhist monasteries and a dozen Hindu temples with a thousand worshiping Brahmins. In 1022, Khajuraho was mentioned by Abu Rihan-al-Biruni, the Persian historian who accompanied Mahmud of Ghazni on his raid of Kalinjar; he mentioned Khajuraho as the capital of Jajahuti. The raid was unsuccessful and a peace agreement was reached when the Hindu king agreed to pay a ransom to Mahmud of Ghazni to end the attack and leave.

The Khajuraho temples were in use until the end of the 12th century. In the 13th century the army of the Delhi Sultanate, under the command of the Muslim sultan Qutb-ud-din Aibak, attacked and took over the kingdom of Chandela. About a century later, Ibn Battuta, the Moroccan traveller, in his memoirs of his stay in India, from 1335 to 1342, mentioned visiting the temples of Khajuraho, calling them "Kajarra", as follows:

«...near the temples, which contain idols mutilated by Muslims, live numerous yogis whose disheveled curls have grown as long as their bodies. And due to extreme asceticism they are all yellow. Many Muslims frequent these men to take (yoga) lessons from them.”
(Ibn Battuta)

Until the 12th century, Khajuraho was under Hindu kings and featured 85 temples. Central India was conquered by the Delhi Sultanate in the 13th century. Under Muslim rule, many temples were destroyed and the rest left abandoned. The region of central India, where the Khajuraho temples are located, was controlled by various Muslim dynasties from the 13th to 18th centuries. In this period some temples were desecrated, and then left abandoned for a long period. In 1495, for example, Sikandar Lodi's temple destruction campaign included Khajuraho. Khajuraho's remoteness and isolation protected Hindu and Jain temples from continued destruction by Muslims. Over the centuries, vegetation and forests invaded the temples.

In 1830, local Hindus guided a British surveyor, T.S., to the temples. Burt, and were thus rediscovered by the public. Alexander Cunningham later reported, a few years after the rediscovery, that the temples were secretly used by yogis and that thousands of Hindus would arrive on pilgrimage during the Shivaratri celebrated annually in February or March according to a lunar calendar. In 1852, F.C. Maisey prepared the first drawings of the Khajuraho temples. Of the 85 temples that made up the complex, just over twenty have come down to us.

 

How to orient yourself

The city center is located opposite the entrance to the Western Monuments. Here the area is pedestrianized and in the evening families meet for a walk. Jain Mandir Rd passes next to it where most of the city's hotels and restaurants are located.

The rest of the city and its monuments are located a few kilometers from the center, as are the large five-star hotels.

 

How to get here

By plane
1 Khajuraho Airport (IATA: HJR) (located 5 km from the city), ☎ +91 7686 740-415. Served by Air India offering flights from Delhi, Varanasi and Mumbai. If one is not prepared for a bumpy journey of 5-6 hours from Jhansi to Khajuraho, then flight is the best mode.
Having arrived by plane in Khajuraho, it is best to head to Panna National Park (located 30 km away) to spend the night.

By car
The nearest city is Jhansi, 176 km northwest. Beyond them are the centers of Gwalior (277 km), Agra (396 km), Mathura (454 km) and finally Delhi (600 km).

On the opposite direction (east) is Allahabad (286 km). Beyond you come across Varanasi (or Benares) (390 km)

On the train
2 Khajuraho Station (about 6 km from the city). Connected to Jhansi (Uttar Pradesh) (175 km) on the Delhi - Chennai / Bangalore / Thiruvananthapuram main line. It is not possible to purchase train tickets at Khajuraho Railway Station. You have to go to the bus station, about 1 km walk outside of town, to buy train tickets (much cheaper than buying tickets through your hotel). Train tickets can also be booked online with credit/debit cards or Indian bank account at www.irctc.co.in or [here]. Without an IRCTC account, tickets can be booked on the 12Go Asia website with credit card or PayPal.
There are direct trains from New Delhi station (Hazarat Nizamuddin railway station), Agra and Varanasi. The train leaves Delhi every day except Wednesday at 8.15pm and arrives at 6.15am the next morning at Khajuraho railway station.
Uttar Pradesh Sampark Kranti / Khajuraho Nizamuddin Express (train number 22447) runs from Delhi Hazarat Nizamuddin to Khajuraho 6 days a week except Wednesdays. If you have to go back to New Delhi from Khajuraho, try to book tickets for this train because it is very convenient to go from Khajuraho by train rather than bus. It departs from Khajuraho (train no. 22447) at 6.20 pm and reaches Delhi at 5.30 am. To come to Khajuraho the train (train no. 22447) leaves from H. Nizamuddin at 8.15pm and reaches Khajuraho the next day at 6.35am.
The other options are through Jhansi. It takes around six hours to reach Jhansi from Delhi by train and another 3-4 hours (plus connecting time) to go to Khajuraho. Take the Dakshin Express from Delhi (10.50pm) and reach Jhansi by 5am, connecting with the Jhansi-Khajuraho Link Passenger (train no. 51821) which now runs along with the Jhansi-Allahabad Passenger (train no. 51821) which leaves Jhansi at 7.10am and reaches Khajuraho at 12.05pm. Another option is the Bhopal Shatabdi train from Delhi (6:00) to Jhansi. Khajuraho to Jhansi train departs from Khajuraho at 12.25pm and will reach Jansi by 5.30pm. Both trains stop at Orchha.
An alternative station is Satna (Madhya Pradesh) (117 km) on the Allahabad – Mumbai main line. Another option is Mahoba station on the Varanasi-Jhansi route. Alight at Mahoba and take the 11:00 passenger (train no. 229A) to Khajuraho.
Connections
The Western Temples group is about 5 km from the railway station, in fact the airport is much closer to the temples than the railway station. There is no bus service from the railway station to the city and you will have to travel in a "Vikram"/Diesel Auto, you can join a group of passengers for ₹10 or rent one, which will cost between ₹100-150 one way.

By bus or taxi
Satna and Jhansi are both connected to Khajuraho by a regular bus service. It takes around 3 hours to reach Khajuraho from Satna or Jhansi by taxi and 5-6 hours by bus. From Jhansi Railway Station, take an auto rickshaw to Jhansi Bus Station, which is 5 km away. It is very difficult to take a bus to Khajuraho from Jhansi after 5pm. So try to reach Jhansi in the afternoon if you want to take a bus to Khajuraho from Jhansi.

Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh (225 km, 5 hours), Satna (117 km, 4 hours), Harpalpur (94 km), Jhansi (172 km) and Mahoba (61 km). Khajuraho is located 600 km (11 hours travel) south-east of Delhi. There are bus services from Agra (12 hours), Gwalior (9 hours) and Jhansi.

Taxis are recommended because the bus and road conditions are not good and the journey is exhausting. If you travel with your car and are a novice driver, the chances of having an accident are very high.

 

How to get around

A good way to get around and see the temples and village life in Kharujaho is by bicycle, which you can easily rent from bike shops near the main temple complex. They charge ₹20 per day.

By public transport
Khajuraho is well connected by public and private buses. Private tour operators can arrange Non Ac or deluxe Ac buses for passengers from major bus stations within the city.

The cycle rickshaw costs around ₹15 per km and ₹200 for the whole day.

By taxi
Taxis to and from the airport cost ₹150; however motor rickshaws cost ₹50 for the same distance.

 

What see

West group of temples
There is an entry fee of ₹10 (for Indians) and US$5 (for foreigners) to enter the western group of temples. (If you have a ticket from the Taj Mahal, you can use it here again.) All temples are open from dawn to dusk. These are the richest and largest temple groups.

This Western group of temples, consisting of the Kandariya, Matangeshwara, and Vishvanatha temples, is likened to a "cosmic drawing of a hexagon (a yantra or Cosmogram)" representing the three forms of Shiva.

1 Lakhmana Temple. The oldest (10th century) and most beautiful of the Western group of temples, it was built by King Yashovarman. It is dedicated to Vaikuntha Vishnu, an aspect of Vishnu. It is a Sandhara temple of the Panchayatana variety. Its structure is composed of all the elements of Hindu temple architecture. It has an entrance porch (ardh-mandapa), Mandapa, Maha-Mandapa, Antarala and Garbhagriha. Unlike other temples of Khajuraho, its shrine is Pancharatha in plan view (top view). His sikhara is grouped with minor urushringas. The wall part is dotted with balcony windows with ornate balustrades. It has two rows of sculptures including divine figures, couples and erotic scenes. The door of the shrine is of seven sakhas (vertical panels). The central one is decorated with the ten incarnations of Vishnu. The architrave depicts the goddess Lakshmi in the center flanked by Brahma and Vishnu. The shrine contains the four-armed sculpture of Vishnu. In one of the niches the image of the sculptor and his disciples at work is depicted.
2 Varaha Temple (next to (south) the Lakshmi Temple and opposite the Lakshman Temple.). This temple houses a colossal monolithic image of Varāha, the boar incarnation of the god Vishnu (avatara). Legend has it that Vishnu appeared in the form of a Boar to defeat Hiranyaksha, a demon who had taken the Earth (Prithvi) and brought it to the bottom of what is described in history as the cosmic ocean. It is believed that the battle between Varaha and Hiranyaksha lasted for a thousand years and the former ultimately won. Varaha carried the Earth out of the ocean in his fangs and returned it to her place in the universe. Vishnu married Prithvi (Bhudevi) in this avatar. Varaha is depicted in art as purely animal or as anthropomorphic, with the head of a boar on the body of a man. In this latter form he has four arms, two of which hold the wheel and the shell while the other two hold a club, a sword or a lotus or perform a gesture (or "mudra") of blessing. The Earth is held between the tusks of the boar.
It is dated to c. 900–925 AD built on a high pedestal, it is simple and modest. It has an oblong pavilion with a pyramidal roof with receding tiers, resting on fourteen flat pillars. The sanctuary is built entirely of sandstone. The Varaha statue is 2.6 m long and 1.7 m high. The sculpture is colossal and monolithic and made of sandstone, carved with numerous figures all over the body. Between the nose and mouth, it depicts the goddess (of Sarasvati) carrying Veena in her arms.
3 Lakshmi Temple (opposite Lakshaman Temple). It is dedicated to the goddess Lakshmi, consort of Vishnu. The structure of the temple rests on modest square shapes (chabutara). It has a small sanctuary. The side and back walls are devoid of sculptures.
4 Matanageswara Temple (Matangeśvara Mandir). A temple dedicated to Shiva, dated to 900-925 AD. The temple is a large-scale version of the Brahma temple in terms of plan and style. It has a square plan. It houses a 2.5 m high lingam, with a diameter of 1.1 m. with Nagari and Persian inscriptions. It is not richly decorated: the internal walls, the external walls and the curved tower are devoid of carvings. The ceiling has elementary floral cusps. This is the only active place of worship. Around Maha Shivaratri, a three-day ceremony is organized.
5 Kandariya Temple (Kandāriyā Mahādeva Mandir) (west of the Vishnu temple). The Temple is one of the best examples of preserved temples from the medieval period in India, it is also the largest of the Western group of temples. Shiva is the main deity deified in the sanctum sanctorum. It was built during the reign of Vidyadhara (1003-1035 AD). The architecture is an assemblage of porticoes and towers terminating in a shikhara or spire, a common feature from the 10th century onwards in central Indian temples. The temple is founded on a massive base 4 meters high. The structure above the pedestal is deftly designed and pleasantly detailed. The superstructure is built into a steep mountain shape, symbolic of Mount Meru which is said to be the mythical source of the creation of the world. This has richly decorated roofs that rise in a grand form terminating in the shikara, which has 84 miniature spiers. A series of steep steps with a high rise leads from ground level to the entrance. The layout of the temple is a five-part design, a commonality with the Lakshmana and Vishvanatha temples in the Khajuraho complex. Right at the entrance there is torana, a very intricately carved garland which is carved from a single stone; such entrances are part of a Hindu wedding procession. The carvings on the entrance gate show the "tactile quality of the stone and also the character of the symmetrical design" which is visible in the entire temple which has high relief carvings of the statuettes. Finely chiselled, the decorative quality of the ornament with the sharp inscribed lines has "strong angular shapes and brilliant chiaroscuro motifs". The carvings are of circles, undulations emanating spirals or sprays, geometric patterns, lion masks and other uniform designs that have created a pleasing image that is unique to this temple, among all others in the complex.
In the internal space from the entrance there are three mandapas or rooms, which successively rise in height and width, including a small room dedicated to Shiva, a room where the Shiva linga, the phallic emblem of Shiva, is deified. The sanctum sanctorum is surrounded by interconnected passageways that also have side and front balconies. Due to insufficient natural light in the balconies, the sanctuary has very little light thus creating a "cave-like atmosphere" which is in total contrast to the external parts. In the internal halls and on its external faces are richly carved sculptures of gods and goddesses, musicians and apsaras or nymphs. The huge pillars of the halls have architectural features of the "vine or scroll motif". In the corners of the rooms there are inserts carved on the surface with engraved motifs. There is one main tower above the shrine and there are two more towers above the other mandapas which are also "semi-circular, stepped, pyramidal in shape with progressively greater height". The main tower is surrounded by a series of smaller interconnected towers and spiers. These are in the shape of a repeating subset of miniature spiers resting on a central core which gives the temple an irregularly cut outline similar to the shape of a mountain range of Mount Kailasa of the Himalayas where the god Shiva resides, which is appropriate to the theme of temples.
The external surfaces are entirely covered with sculptures in three vertical layers. Here there are horizontal ribbons carved with images, which shine brightly in the sunlight, providing rhythmic architectural features. Among the images of gods and celestial beings, Agni, the god of fire, stands out. These are niches where erotic sculptures are placed all around which constitute a great attraction for visitors. Some of these sculptures are very finely carved and are in mithuna (coitus) positions with maidens flanking the couple, which is an often noted motif. There is also a "male figure suspended upside down" in a coitus position, a kind of yogic pose, upside down. The niches also have sculptures of Saptamatrikas, the septad of mother goddesses along with the gods Ganesha and Virabhadra. The seven fearsome protector goddesses include: Brahmi seated on a Brahma swan; Three-eyed Maheshwari sitting on Shiva Nandi's bull; Kumari; Vaishnavi mounted on Garuda; the boar-headed Varahi; Narasimhi and the lion-headed Chamunda, the slayer of the demons Chanda and Munda. The image of Sardula, a mythical creature with lion face and human limbs in the bottom panel, is a unique figure seen in the temple.
6 Devi Jagadambi Temple. Dedicated to Goddess Devi, this is a smaller and much more delicately proportioned temple and is home to some of Khajuraho's finest sculptures. The garbha griha has a huge image of the Devi of the Universe (Jagdambi), although it appears to have started as a Vishnu temple. It has the usual three bands of sculptures, but the third and tallest of these houses some of the more erotic sculptures.
7 Chitragupta Temple. Temple dating back to 1020-1025 AD. dedicated to the god Chitragupta (accountant of good and bad deeds) and Sūrya (god of the sun). The temple is very similar to the nearby Jagadambi temple. It has a sanctum with a circumambulatory path, a vestibule, a maha-mandapa (great hall) with transepts and an entrance porch. The great hall has an octagonal ceiling, more ornate than the corresponding ceiling in the Jagadambi temple. This suggests that it was built slightly later than the Jagadambi temple. The building has two balconies and the ascending staircase of the roof is not as impressive as that of the larger temples of Khajuraho.
Here lies a partially broken 2.1 meter tall statue of Surya riding a chariot of seven horses. He is shown standing, dressed in an armored coat and boots, and holding lotus flowers. The door lintel of the shrine also features three similar, but smaller, images of Surya. The outer walls are covered with erotic couples, surasundari and various deities, including an 11-headed Vishnu. The sculpture of Vishnu shows the god in his para rupa (supreme form) with his 10 incarnations: this rare representation is seen nowhere else, and finds no mention in any historical text. Other sculptures include figures of couples engaged in Maithuna and apsaras displaying their yoni while holding their robes lower. There is also a sculpture of Shiva's assistant, Nandi, depicted with a human body and bull's head.
8 Vamana Temple. It is a Hindu temple dedicated to Vamana, the dwarf form of Vishnu. The temple was built between approximately 1050-75. and is known for its simple architecture.
9 Javari Temple (about 200 m from Vamana Temple). It was built between c. 975 and 1100 AD The temple is dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva. It has well-proportioned architecture, with a shrine, a vestibule, a mandapa and a portico, but without pradakshinapatha (circumambulatio). It has a notable Makara Torana (Capricorn Arch) and shikhara (the roof). It has three bands of sculptures carved on the outer wall. The temple bears a close resemblance to the Chaturbhuja temple, also in Khajuraho. The main idol of the temple (Vishnu) is broken and headless.
The entrance gate of the shrine has sculptures depicting nava-graha at the top, furthermore the sculptures of Hindu deities Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva can also be seen.
10 Vishvanatha Temple (Vishwanath Mandir). The temple is dedicated to Shiva, also known as "Vishvanatha" which means "Lord of the Universe". The temple is believed to have been commissioned by King Chandela Dhanga and was probably completed in 999 AD. or 1002 AD Its architectural style is similar to that of the older Lakshmana temple and the more recent Kandariya Mahadeva temple. It features several sculptures of various deities, surasundari (celestial maidens), lovemaking couples and mythical creatures. The temple was designed as a Panchayatana complex, comprising a main shrine surrounded by four smaller sub-shrines. However, only two of the smaller shrines now survive. The main sanctuary is oriented towards the east. The eastern shrine is dedicated to Mount Nandi of Shiva, whose 2.2 m tall statue stands in front of the main shrine. The southwestern shrine is dedicated to Shiva's consort, Parvati. The Parvati temple is partially damaged, of which only the shrine (Garbhagriha) and the roof (Sikhara) survive. The shrine houses an idol of Parvati standing on an iguana.
The main shrine is an example of the Nagara style: it contains an entrance porch (ardha-mandapa), a small hall (mandapa), a large hall (maha-mandapa), a vestibule (antarala) and a shrine (garbhagriha) with a roof tower (Sikhara). All of these sit on a base with several sculptures. The stairs leading from the base to the portico are flanked by lions on one side and elephants on the other. The shrine has a stone linga; The emerald linga mentioned in the inscription is missing. The linga is surrounded by a passage for Pradakshina (circumambulation). The sanctum has balconies on three sides for light and ventilation. The base of the temple has several niches with sculptures of the Saptamatrikas (seven goddesses), Shiva's consort Parvati and a dancing Ganesha. The outer part above the base has three bands with sculptures of various deities, surasundaris (female figures) as well as apsaras and mythical creatures. Surasundari are shown performing various daily activities, such as applying sindoor (vermilion powder) on their foreheads and kohl on their eyes, twisting their hair after bathing, playing the flute, pulling thorns from their feet, dancing, admiring themselves in a mirror, by dressing or simply posing provocatively. The north and south walls of the temple feature erotic reliefs. The junction of the vestibule and sanctum features a variation of the famous "acrobatic sex" sculpture in the new Kandariya Mahadeva Temple.

11 Nandi Temple (opposite Vishvanatha Temple). It is dedicated to Nandi, the bull who serves as the mount (vāhana) of Shiva, in Hindu epics. As a common architectural trend, Shiva (and Parvati) temples display stone images of a Nandi seated facing Shiva. The temple stands on a modest rectangular plan (chabutara). The plan of the main structure is in the shape of a square cross (combination of cross and rectangle), where the rectangle forms the sanctuary and the edges of the cross form the four balconies (one on each side). The walls of the temples are like balcony walls and do not completely cover the sanctuary. The roof rests on pillars (one for each corner). The border design consists of carvings depicting an elephant (front view with head, trunk and two legs). Human figures are also depicted on both sides of the elephant. Erotic sculptures of couples can also be seen on the outside roof. The sculpture of Shiva (with trishula on the right shoulder and serpent on the left shoulder) can also be seen on the outer roof and wall (along with the border design). Inside is a large hall of over 20 square pillars with a spectacular circular ceiling.
You can spend some quiet time here as it is one of the least crowded places in Khajuraho.
12 Parvati Temple (southwest of Vishvanath Temple). It is a temple dedicated to the goddess Parvati, consort of Shiva. The portico is completely lost and only the base of the sanctuary has survived. The arch above the door of the shrine depicts the sculpture of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Numerous erotic sculptures of couples can also be seen on the front wall (on the door side of the sanctuary). The side and back walls are devoid of sculptures.
13 Pratapesvara Temple. The temple is a 19th century Chhatri style monument built here by Raja Pratap Singh of Chhatarpur, a princely state under the protection of British colonial India. The temple is different from all pre-13th century Hindu and Jain temples in Khajuraho. It shows the extraordinary contrast within 600 years from the skills that built highly sophisticated large designs and temple architecture to that which built the Pratapeshvara temple. This memorial is an amalgamation of the Hindu temple sikhara with lower and middle sections having Chhatri arches and domes resembling Indo-Islamic architecture. These domes and arches are visible in Rajputana and Maratha era monuments and temples, reflecting readily available skills and expertise as well as those lost over the centuries due to lack of demand and schools. The monument is simple inside, like other chhatris of Bundelkhand. It has a small Shiva linga and a small Nandi inside under the sikhara.
14 Archaeological Museum (opposite Shiv Sagar and near Hotel Lakeside). It is a very small museum but is a must-visit place as it features a large selection of sculptures unique to the area. Originally built in the year 1910 and recently renovated in 2016. The place offers tourist attractions that tell stories of the past, making it a unique place for tourists, historians. Inside you can see a rare collection of sculptures, architectural ruins and various galleries. Furthermore, you can find some information on the panel depicting the story of Chandela. Photography is strictly prohibited.

 

Group of eastern temples

15 Parshvanatha Temple (Pārśvanātha Mandir). It is a 10th century Jain temple dedicated to Parshvanatha. The largest of the bunch, with exquisite carving details. Despite the temple's Jain affiliation, its external walls feature Vishnuite themes. The entrance also has an inscription with a perfect magic square. This magic square contains all the numbers from 1 to 16. The sum of the numbers in each horizontal row, each vertical column and the two diagonal rows is 34. The temple is believed to have been built by a prominent Jain family between 950 and 970 AD, during the reign of King Chandela Dhanga. It has an entrance porch, a small hall, a large hall (mandapa), a vestibule and a shrine. The temple structure has an oblong architectural plan with projections at both ends. The front (eastern) projection forms the entrance portico, the rear (western) projection is a sanctuary attached to the sanctuary. The ceiling of the entrance porch has chain and floral motifs and a pair of intertwined flying vidyadharas. The door lintel of the mandapa has the sculpture of Adinatha's assistant: a ten-armed Chakreshvari (a deity) riding a Garuḍa.
The sculptures on the northern outer wall are the highlights of this temple and feature three bands of sculptures. These sculptures feature surasundari (graceful women), flying couples, dancers, musicians and celestial beings. Despite the Jain affiliation of the temple, the outer walls also depict Vishnuite themes including sculptures of Hindu deities and their incarnations with their consorts. These include Vishnu - Lakshmi, Rama - Sita, Balarama - Revati, Parashurama, Hanuman, Brahma and Yamalarjuna legend of Krishna. These sculptures are similar to those of the Lakshmana Temple in modeling, proportions and balance. Unlike the Lakshmana temple, the Parshvanatha temple does not feature any explicit erotic sculptures, although one particular image appears to show a cross-legged Apsaras masturbating with an object.
16 Brahma Temple (on the banks of Khajuraho Sagar lake). Although named after the Hindu god Brahma, the temple is dedicated to Shiva. It is from the 9th or early 10th century. The garbhagriha (sanctum) of the temple contains a four-faced lingam, the symbol of Shiva, and local worshipers mistook it for a sculpture of Brahma, which has four faces. The western windows and central positions of the garbhagriha lintels contain figures of Vishnu. Unlike most other temples, which are made of granite stone, this temple is made of granite. The shikhara (the tower above the chamber where the deity is enshrined) is made of sandstone. The temple originally consisted of a portico and a garbhagriha. The porch has been destroyed and only the garbhagriha crowned by the shikhara remains. Externally, the garbhagriha is cruciform in shape and contains projections on each side. Internally it is square in shape and rests on 12 granite pillars. The eastern projection contains the main door and the western projection contains a smaller door. On the remaining two side projections there are screened windows. The main portal is largely unadorned. It contains only a sculpture of the trimurti on the lintel and Ganga and Yamuna at the base.
17 Gantai Temple. Also known as Ghanti temple, it is a ruined Jain temple. Similar in style to the Parshvanatha temple, it was dedicated to the Jain tirthankara rishabhanatha (also known as Adinatha). The construction can be dated to around 995 AD. It is similar to the Parshvanatha temple, but has a much larger scale, which indicates that it was built after the Parshvanatha temple. Only the pillars of its entrance porch and its maha-mandapa (great hall) have survived. The maha-mandapa has an elaborate portal, but the surrounding walls have collapsed. The surviving pillars feature a chain and bell (ghanti) motif. The door lintel of the mandapa features Adinatha's assistant yakshini, Chakreshvari. She is depicted with eight arms and sitting on a garuda. The lintel on the door has carvings of six auspicious symbols said to have been dreamed of by Mahavira's pregnant mother. The ceiling of the entrance porch is coffered. The oblong panels that border the ceiling are carved with figures of dancers and musicians. A large sculpture, now located at the Khajuraho museum, was found at the temple ruins. This sculpture features figures of 52 Jinas, including a central figure of Rishabha standing in kayotsarga pose. The sculpture also features Sarvanubhuti on the left side and a four-armed Chakreshvari on the right side.
18 Adinatha Temple. It is a Jain temple dedicated to the Jain god Tirthankar Adinath dated to the late 11th century AD. In the Garbhagriha there is a black schist (or basalt) statue of Adinath with an inscription in three lines. The plan and design of the temple are similar to that of the Vamana temple. There are only a few differences between the two temples. For example, the top row of the outer wall of the Adinatha temple depicts a flying vidyadhara, while that of the Vamana temple displays diamond-shaped decorations. The curvilinear tower of the temple is of better proportions than that of the Vamana temple. This, combined with a somewhat more advanced sculptural style, suggests that the Adinatha temple was built after the Vamana temple. Now only two main parts survive: the vestibule and the sanctuary.
The outer walls have three bands of sculptures depicting surasundaris (graceful women), pairs of flying vidyadharas, vyalas (mythical lion-like being) and a dancer with musicians. Despite the Jain affiliation of the shrine, the outer walls also feature carvings of Hindu deities. The niches feature sculptures of the Jain Yakshinis: Ambika, Chakreshvari and Padmavati. A sculpture found in the temple shows a seated Adinatha with an ushnisha on his head. It features a Dharmacakra with a small bull figure. The right side of the seat has the figure of a pot-bellied Yaksi with a cup and a bag of money in his hands. The left side has the figure of the yakshini Chakreshvari sitting on a Garuda. He has four arms; each of the two upper arms holds a chakra. The Adinatha is shown sitting in padmasana pose on a seat padded with lotus flowers and diamond patterns.
19 Shantinatha Temple (Śāntinātha Mandir). It is a Jain temple dedicated to tirthankara Shantinatha and includes 18 shrines with numerous Jain images. The temple incorporates two shrines along with fragments of other temples. The current structure may have been built in 1870 AD. Although the current structure of the temple features modern renovations, the core is quite ancient. It features an oblong enclosure of sanctuary cells depicting the oldest sculptures. Two sides of the structure incorporate Chandella period structures. The temple and the images installed therefore span 10 centuries. The current structure is a quadrangle, as are many nineteenth-century Jain temples, with an open courtyard in the center. The structure and the oldest stone elements are clearly visible set in the nineteenth-century masonry structure. The shrine in the center contains the ancient image of Shantinath which is flanked by smaller images of all 24 tirthankaras. The gate includes the conventional images of goddess Ganga and Yamuna, and there is a notable image of the guardian deity Kshetrapala. The 18 sanctuaries house numerous images from the 11th/12th century and the 19th/20th century. Some of the ancient images were brought here from ruined Jain temples from Fatehpur Sikri (near Hatta in damoh dist) and Bilahri in Katni district. One of the quadrangle's wings serves as a gallery displaying historic photographs and prints from the early 20th century.
20 Jain Museum. ₹5 (Jun 2023). Mon-Sat 8am-5pm. Museum dedicated to the Jain community.

 

Other

21 Chausath Yogini Temple. It is a Yogini temple (i.e. dedicated to a woman who practiced yoga) in ruins. Unlike Yogini temples in other places, it has a rectangular plan, but like them it is hypoetra, open air. The temple is part of the Western Group of temples on a 5.4 m high platform. The temple is made of large blocks of coarse granite, with an open courtyard in the center. The courtyard was originally surrounded by 65 sanctuary cells. Only 35 of these 65 cells now survive. No sculptures remain in the temple ruins. Three large statues of mother goddesses or Matrikas, found among the ruins, are now in the Khajuraho museum. The goddesses have been identified as Brahmani, Maheshvari and Hingalaja or Mahishamardini. The image of Brahmani has three faces; his vehicle is a hamsa (swan or goose). Maheshvari is depicted with a trident and a humped bull. The image of Mahishamardini has one foot on a buffalo which she has defeated; he holds its legs and in two of his eight arms he wields a sword and a shield. These statues are among the oldest sculptures in Khajuraho.
22 Lalguan Mahadeva Temple. It is a ruined Shiva temple. The construction of the temple can be dated to around 900 AD. It is the second oldest surviving temple in Khajuraho, after the Chausath Yogini temple. Both temples are made of granite. The temple appears to have been built in a period when sandstone (used in other Khajuraho temples) was being introduced, but the use of granite had not completely ceased. It was built on the bank of a lake, now called Lalguan Sagar. Compared to later temples it is small in size and simple in style. Its layout and style are similar to those of the nearby Brahma temple. It has a pyramid-shaped roof. The only carving on the door is a diamond pattern. The curvilinear tower of his sanctuary has fallen and the entrance portico has disappeared.
23 Chaturbhuj Temple (Jatakari Temple) (3 km from the Eastern Group). The name Chaturbhuja (lit. "He who has four arms") is an epithet of Vishnu, the deity to whom it is dedicated. This idol is south facing as Vishnu's favorite place, the same south facing plane is incorporated into the Angkor Wat temple in Cambodia. The temple was built by Yasovarman of the Chandela dynasty in c. 1100 AD This is the only temple in Khajuraho that lacks erotic sculptures. The temple consists of a sanctum without an ambulatory, vestibule, mandapa and an entrance porch. It stands on a modest (chabutara). Around the wall there are three bands of sculptures.
24 Duladeo Temple (Kunwar Math) (south of Ghantai Temple). The temple is dedicated to God Shiva in the form of a linga. 'Duladeo' means "Holy Spouse". It faces east and is dated to 1000-1150 AD. It is the last of the temples built during the Chandela period. The statuettes carved in the temple have soft expressive characteristics unlike other temples. The walls have a display of sculpted celestial dancers (apsaras) in erotic postures and other figures. The temple is classified as a nirandhara temple, that is, without an ambulatory, a vestibule, a main hall (maha-mandapa) and an entrance porch. The pinnacle (shikhara) is made up of three rows of smaller shikharas. The main room is very large and octagonal in shape. Its ceiling has elegantly carved celestial dancers (apsaras). There are twenty such corbels carved with apsaras, with two or three apsaras next to each other in each corbel. It is said to be "the afterglow of Khajuraho architectural and sculptural mastery". The upper rows of the facade have sculptures of supernatural beings (vidyadhara) in a vibrant mode. In the portico entrance there are sculptures of river deities covered by umbrellas and pompom decorations. A striking sculpture is the carving of the profile of a celestial dancer in the inner passage of the temple fringed between buttresses, which has the decoration of a necklace with hands ready as if to throw a dice. Also noteworthy is the carving of a flying god (deva), decorated with a long rectangular necklace. There is also a sculpture of the trinity of Surya, Brahma and Shiva. A figure of Shiva is carved on the lintel at the entrance to the shrine (garbhagriha). The central linga icon in the shrine is not the original but a duplicate, as the original is not traced. A unique feature of the depictions on the linga is that it has 999 other lingas carved across its entire surface. Its religious significance is that going around the linga would be equivalent to circumambulating 1,000 times around it.
25 Beejamandal Temple (in Jatkara village). It is a ruined temple and is near Chattarbhuj temple. Popularly known as Vijaya Temple it is full of archaeologically interesting objects. The building is said to have been built in the 8th century and later rebuilt in the Paramara period in the second half of the 11th century by Emperor Naravarman. Since Emperor Naravarman was a devotee of Goddess Charchika, also known as Vijaya, this landmark is popularly known as Vijaya Temple. The building was never finished, as can easily be seen from the carved niches and unfinished architectural pieces found around the base of the temple's plinth. During the time of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb (1658 AD-1707 AD), the temple was demolished by Aurangzeb and he built a mosque on the demolished remains of the temple and named it "Alamgir Mosque". (around 1682). Muslims started praying in the mosque after the construction of the mosque for many years. In 1991, there was a heavy rain that caused one of the walls of the mosque to collapse. Due to this destruction, many Hindu idols that were inside the mosque for more than 300 years were exposed and brought to the public's attention that it was a Hindu temple. An investigation by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) found that Hindu idols were buried under the platform on the northern side, which was used as a prayer hall conducted especially on Eid days. The figures of goddess Mahishasur Mardini and Ganesha were also recovered during excavations in (1972-1974).

26 Adivart Tribal & Folk Art Museum. It houses a rich collection of tribal art and artefacts from Madhya Pradesh. There are over 500 tribal antiques, folk paintings, jewellery, masks, terracotta items, etc. Apart from this, the museum also showcases the evolution of artefacts over the past centuries.

 

Events and parties

Dance Festival (Khajuraho Dance Festival). February March. Organized every year by the Madhya Pradesh government, it is a week-long festival of classical dances. Nowadays, famous artists from India and abroad organize dance performances. The festival highlights the richness of Indian classical dance styles with the best performances of all Indian classical dance styles. Modern Indian dance was recently added. The dances are performed in an open-air auditorium, usually in front of the Chitragupta temple dedicated to Surya (the sun god) and the Vishwanath temple dedicated to Shiva belonging to the Western group.
Maha Shivaratri, Matangeshvara Temple. February or March. A three-day ceremony is organized to celebrate the marriage of Shiva. Around 25,000 people participate. The lingam is washed, dressed and decorated like a human groom during the ceremony.

 

What to do

Audio guides. ₹100 (+tax) in English and foreign languages or ₹60 in Hindi and Indian languages.. The Archaeological Survey of India provides visitors with an official facility for self-guided audio tours of international standards. The tour allows visitors to experience the Khajuraho group of monuments at their own pace, with authentic and factually accurate information. Visitors can enjoy the audio guide at the official audio guide booth near the monument ticket office.
Light and sound show in the Western Temple Group. Entrance fee ₹120 for Indians and ₹300 for foreigners. At the end of the visit to the temple complex, the sound and light show is held every evening, narrated by Bollywood icon Amitabh Bachhan.
Arhanta Yoga International, P.O. Onta Purwa, near Bamitha, Bansarai (about 15 km south of the city), ☎ +91 8120121002, info@arhantayoga.org. Hatha Yoga classes can be taken in a traditional ashram lifestyle.
I swim. Some good hotels like Jas Raddison and Chandela offer the use of their swimming pool for ₹300 onwards, which is a popular activity during summer.
The Kairali Ayurgram Treatment & Massage center (Khajuraho Airport Rd, Khajuraho Airport Area), ☎ +91 9893144219.

 

Shopping

Iron, brass and stone sculptures depicting poses from the Kama Sutra are a specialty of Khajuraho and are available in the town's craft shops.

Crafts Emporium, VW2G+88F, Hotel Gem Palace, Jain Temple Road, ☎ +91 7686274100. Government authorized shop. It sells gold and silver ornaments, sandstone statues and various other local handicrafts.
Market, Rajinagar (5 km from Khajuraho). Tuesday. The market is a good place to buy silver and brass items.

 

How to have fun

Shows
Khajuraho Sound & Light Show, Bhanumati Road, Sevagram (Western Group of Khajuraho Temples). 750 INR. October-February Mon-Sun 6.30pm-7.25pm, March-September Mon-Sun 7.30pm-8.25pm. Light and sound show to understand the history and myths related to the monuments of Khajuraho.

 

Where to eat

The area offers a good opportunity to try some local delicacies. The region is famous for its sweets, although there is also a spicy variety called namkeen. Popular desserts are cashew burfi, jalebi, lavang lata, kusli, khurma, moong dal ka halwa (a pudding made from green lentils), sabudana ki khichadi and shikanji.

Moderate prices
1 Madras Coffee House (opposite the Western Group of Temples). A restaurant specializing in South Indian cuisine
2 Temple Cafe, Radisson Hotel Khajuraho, By pass road, ☎ +91 7686272777.

Average prices
3 Agrawal Marwadi Bhojanalay (Vegetarian Restaurant) (next to Hotel Gem Palace). Mon-Sun 8am-10pm. It offers excellent quality vegetarian food, especially alu tamatar and boondi raita. Especially the Jain cuisine is a delight and the waiters are very friendly.
4 Zaheer Paratha & Lassi Corner, Rajnjendra Nagar, Road, Sevagram (opposite Bella Italia), ☎ +91 9575606996. Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. The only place where you can get sweet lassi for ₹15, aloo paratha for ₹15 (starting from) and milk coffee also for ₹15. Long menu, pancakes also available. Just one stand on the street.
5 La Bella Italia Restaurant, Jain Mandir Rd, Sevagram, ☎ +91 8962159510. Restaurant serving Italian cuisine.
6 Maharaja Cafe & Restaurant (opposite the Western Temple Group and close to the main square). Mon-Sun 8am-10pm. Famous restaurant run by two Swiss sisters. Good Swiss food and breakfast for ₹70.
7 Garden View Restaurant, Jain Mandir Rd, near Hotel Surya Khajuraho, Sevagram, ☎ +91 9424346608.
8 Mediterranean Restaurant, ☎ +91 8962290523. A Greek specialty café, rooftop cafe serving Western food and snacks.
9 Paradise Restaurant, ☎ +91 9179386484. A small but cozy restaurant offering delicious and affordable meals. It is also a very clean facility with helpful and friendly staff. Try the breakfast specialty of mango pancakes.
10 Shiv Mahima Restaurant, Jain Rd (150m from the Western Group of Temples), ☎ +91 9200271589. 8am-11pm. Only pure vegetarian food ₹50 per thali.

 

Where stay

The three hotels Rahil, Jhankar and Payal are offered by the Madhya Pradesh tourism board and can be booked through the same site.

Moderate prices
1 Hotel Princess, Next to main market parking lot, near western group of tample, ☎ +91 9755226495, hotelprincesskhajuraho@hotmail.com. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:00. New hotel with luxury bathrooms, TV, but no outside view. In the middle of Jain temple rd. next to several restaurants and friendly staff. WiFi only in the reception area. Very flexible checkout time.
2 Hotel Gautama, Main Road, near Shivsagar Lake, ☎ +91 7686272675, hotelgautama@gmail.com. Check-in: 00:00, check-out: 11:00.
3 Hotel Gem Palace, Jain Temple Rd, ☎ +91 8085673754, gempalace1995@hotmail.com. ₹200-₹475. Check-in: 12pm, Check-out: 12pm.
4 Hotel Greenwood, opposite to Khajuraho Airport Road, Khajuraho Airport Area (Not far from the airport), ☎ +91 9893844562. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 11:00. Structure immersed in a beautiful green garden.
5 Hotel Jain, Jain Temple Road, ☎ +91 9425143652.
6 Hotel Marble Palace, Near Western Group of Temples (Opposite Gole Market), Jain Mandir Rd, ☎ +91 7686274353. Check-in: 10:00, check-out: 10:00.
7 Hotel Surya, Jain Mandir Rd, Sevagram, ☎ +91 9893636315, hotel_surya2001@yahoo.co.in. ₹200-₹500. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 11:00. Economical, welcoming and clean room, good value for money at least out of season. Nice garden but very expensive. This hotel is a mainstay of touts (commission boys). Touts always cheat tourists. Don't trust them.
8 Hotel Yogi Lodge (opposite the Western Group of Temples), ☎ +91 7686274158, yogi_sharma@yahoo.com. ₹80-300. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean, good food. Water-cooled rooms are actually cool during the summer.
9 Hotel Zen, Jain Mandir Rd, Sevagram, ☎ +91 9910888113. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Owned by a student of Osho.

Average prices
10 Hotel Jhankar, Khajuraho Airport Rd, Sevagram, ☎ +91 7686 274 063, +91 7686 274 194, mptjhankar@sancharnet.in. ₹1990. Check-in: 2pm, check-out: 12pm.
11 MPT Payal, Bypass, Rajnagar Rd, near Western Group Of Temples, ☎ +91 7686 274 064, +91 7686 274 076, mptpayal@sancharnet.in. ₹690-₹1990. Check-in: 2pm, check-out: 12pm.
12 Hotel Harmony, Jain Mandir Rd, Sevagram, ☎ +91 7686274135. Check-in: 10:00, check-out: 12:00. Rooms with air conditioning and without air conditioning. Rooftop restaurant serving Chinese, Indian and Continental dishes.

High prices
13 The Grand Temple View, ☎ +91 7686 272 111, +91 7686 272 333, fax: +91 7686 272 123. Check-in: 2pm, check-out: 12pm. There is a shop, gym and swimming pool.
14 Hotel Clarks Khajuraho (1 Km from the airport), ☎ +91 7686 274 038, fax: +91 7686 274 257. About $70. Facilities include a SPA, gym and swimming pool.
15 Radisson Jass Khajuraho, By Pass Road, Khajuraho, 471606, India (By Pass Road), ☎ +91 768 6297044, reservations@radissonkhajuraho.com. Price around $70. The rooms and suites include free WiFi, a flat-screen TV, a desk, a minibar, room service and a courtesy tray with tea and coffee. All offer views of the garden or pool. The property has a bar, outdoor swimming pool with sun terrace, gym, leisure area, business center and shopping centre.
16 Usha Bundela, Usha Bundela Temple Road, ☎ +91 7686 272 386, +91 7686 272 387, fax: +91 (07686) 272 385, reservations@ushalexushotels.com. Price around $90. The rooms feature simple furnishings and neutral colors and are equipped with cable TV. The higher category rooms also offer a relaxation corner. Room service is available. Parking and breakfast are included. The property includes a regional restaurant, bar and café. It also has an outdoor swimming pool with solarium, billiard room, games room and garden.
17 Lalit Temple View Khajuraho, ☎ +91 7686 272 111, +91 7686 272 333, khajuraho@thelalit.com. About $160. With spa, pool, large garden and member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
18 Syna Heritage Hotel (500 meters from the western group of temples), ☎ +91 9821393830, booking@synaheritagehotel.com. Approximately $85. Check-in: 2pm, check-out: 12pm. The rooms are tastefully furnished and overlook the hotel gardens. The accommodation offers a glimpse of the charm of India of yesteryear, along with all the comforts a traveler might expect.
19 Hotel Chandela, Khajuraho Airport Rd, Sevagram, ☎ +91 7686 272 355-64, chandela.khajuraho@tajhotels.com. Approximately $100. Check-in: 2pm, check-out: 12pm.

 

Safety

Always listen to travel advisories and frequent warnings, as some areas of Khajuraho are considered extremely dangerous for foreign travellers.

Beware of fake school teachers, principals and students who are too interested in your money in terms of donation, which hardly goes to the school itself. If you really want to donate, check the authenticity of the request, otherwise your charity will go to someone.

Try not to give money to children or beggars found in all major tourist spots as this will encourage them to earn a living this way. They will try all the tricks of the trade to take your money away. Even a dollar or fifty cents given by foreign tourists is a lot of money in India.