Location: Ma'an Governorate Map
Montreal Castle, also known as Shobak Castle or Qal’at ash-Shawbak, is a 12th-century Crusader fortress perched on a rocky, conical hill in the arid landscape of southern Jordan, near the modern town of Shoubak. Built in 1115 CE by Baldwin I, the first king of the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem, it was strategically positioned to control vital trade and pilgrimage routes between Egypt and Syria, as well as to tax caravans and pilgrims en route to Mecca and Medina. Expanded and renovated by the Mamluks in the 14th century, the castle blends Crusader and Islamic architectural elements, offering a striking testament to Jordan’s medieval history. Its remote, windswept location, dramatic ruins, and ongoing restoration efforts make it a compelling destination for historians, archaeologists, and tourists.
Montreal Castle, originally named Mons Regalis or Mont Real (Latin
for “Royal Mountain”), was constructed in 1115 CE by Baldwin I during
his expedition to secure the southern frontiers of the Crusader Kingdom
of Jerusalem. Following his capture of Aqaba on the Red Sea, Baldwin
sought to dominate the fertile plateau of Edom and the trade routes
along the King’s Highway, a historic road linking Damascus to Aqaba. The
castle’s elevated position in the Arabah Valley, overlooking wadis and
caravan paths, made it a formidable sentinel, allowing the Crusaders to
monitor and tax commerce while protecting Christian pilgrims.
The
castle was the first Crusader fortress built east of the Jordan River,
marking the establishment of the lordship of Oultrejordain
(Transjordan). It housed up to 6,000 people at its peak, including
soldiers, administrators, and their families. Its strategic importance
drew attention from Muslim forces, particularly under the Ayyubid sultan
Saladin, who besieged it repeatedly. After an 18-month siege, Saladin
captured Montreal in 1189, a year after seizing Karak Castle, weakening
Crusader control in the region.
In the 14th century, the Mamluks,
who succeeded the Ayyubids, renovated and expanded the castle, adding
Islamic architectural features like Kufic and Quranic inscriptions. The
Mamluks used the castle as a military outpost, administrative center,
and school, and possibly built a nearby shrine to Abu Suleiman
al-Dirany, still visited today for fertility and healing rituals. The
castle was damaged by Ibrahim Pasha in the 19th century and plundered by
locals for building materials until the 1950s, when it was abandoned.
Since the 1990s, the Jordanian government, in collaboration with Italian
archaeologists from the University of Florence, has undertaken
restoration and excavation, uncovering new features and preserving the
site’s historical integrity.
Montreal Castle is a quintessential example of medieval military
architecture, blending Crusader and Mamluk elements. Perched at an
elevation of over 1,300 meters, its isolated, conical hilltop location
enhances its defensive capabilities, offering panoramic views of the
surrounding desert and mountains. The castle’s design prioritizes
fortification, water security, and strategic oversight, with later
Mamluk additions adding aesthetic and functional enhancements. Below are
its key architectural features:
1. Defensive Structures
Walls
and Battlements: The castle is encircled by thick stone walls,
reinforced with watchtowers and battlements, designed to withstand
sieges. The walls, built from local limestone, feature both Crusader
masonry (large, roughly hewn blocks) and Mamluk refinements (finer
stonework with inscriptions). The northeastern keep, with four arrow
slits, is adorned with Kufic script, possibly from Saladin’s era.
Entrance: The original entrance is a dog-legged triple gate, a Crusader
design that forced attackers through a narrow, defensible passage. Above
the gate, Mamluk calligraphy in large, braided letters dates to the
1290s, adding an Islamic aesthetic.
Semicircular Keep: At the
northern end, a semicircular keep provides additional defense, with
arrow slits for archers and a commanding view of the valley. Dark steps
nearby lead to a prison, reflecting the castle’s role in maintaining
order.
2. Water Supply System
Secret Passage: One of the
castle’s most remarkable features is a secret passage with over 375
steps carved into the bedrock, descending approximately 75 meters to a
subterranean spring. This tunnel, accessed from within the castle,
allowed defenders to retrieve water during sieges without exposure to
attackers. Only about 150 steps have been excavated, and the passage is
steep, dark, and claustrophobic, requiring a torch and caution.
Wells
and Cisterns: Several wells within the castle walls supplemented the
spring, though the tunnel was the primary water source. The engineering
of this system highlights Crusader ingenuity in addressing the region’s
aridity, a challenge also faced at Lot’s Cave’s monastic complex.
3. Religious Structures
Crusader Churches: The castle contains
two churches, reflecting its Christian origins:
The first, near the
entrance, has an apse, two smaller niches, and a baptistery on the west
side, with strategic views of the old village. It features Crusader
architectural elements, such as a simple vaulted ceiling.
The second,
near the southeast corner by a Mamluk watchtower, includes a Crusader
cross carved into the east wall, symbolizing its religious function.
Mamluk Additions: The Mamluks adapted the second church’s vicinity,
adding a watchtower with Kufic inscriptions, blending Islamic and
Christian elements, similar to the interfaith significance seen at Lot’s
Cave and the Church of Saint George.
4. Living and Administrative
Quarters
Baldwin I’s Court: A large room with antechambers, partially
reconstructed, served as the administrative heart of the castle, where
Baldwin and later lords managed trade and governance.
Market and
School: The Mamluks converted a two-story Crusader building with
archways into a market and school, with vaulted ceilings and open spaces
for education and commerce. This adaptation parallels the civic
functions of Jerash’s Colonnaded Street.
Living Quarters and Stables:
The castle included storerooms, stables, and residences for a large
garrison, supporting its self-sufficiency during sieges. These
facilities were vital for the 6,000 residents at its peak.
5.
Architectural Style
Crusader Elements: The castle’s Crusader
architecture features robust, utilitarian designs with European
influences, such as Gothic-like arches and vaulted ceilings, seen in the
churches and entrance gate. These contrast with the classical
Greco-Roman style of Jerash’s Temple of Zeus or North Theatre.
Mamluk
Enhancements: Mamluk renovations introduced Islamic architectural
motifs, including Kufic and Quranic inscriptions, intricate stonework,
and a watchtower, reminiscent of Mamluk Cairo. These additions add a
layered aesthetic, similar to the Byzantine-Islamic synthesis at Lot’s
Cave.
Ruined Aesthetic: The castle’s partially collapsed walls,
eroded stones, and open rooms create a dramatic interplay with the
landscape, with sunlight casting patterns through broken openings. This
“ruined architecture” enhances its romantic appeal, as noted by
visitors.
6. Surrounding Features
Abu Suleiman al-Dirany
Shrine: Below the castle, a Mamluk-era shrine attracts women who leave
henna handprints to pray for fertility or healing, adding a living
cultural dimension akin to the pilgrimage traditions at Lot’s Cave and
the Church of Saint George.
Villages: The castle is surrounded by
about ten villages (e.g., Al-Jayeh, Mugar’ieh, Nijil), whose residents
inhabited the castle until the 1950s, with clans occupying different
towers. This community connection mirrors Madaba’s integration with its
Christian population.
Montreal Castle served multiple roles, reflecting its strategic and
cultural importance:
Military Stronghold: As a Crusader fortress,
it controlled trade routes, taxed caravans, and defended against Muslim
armies. Its elevated position and thick walls made it a formidable
barrier, withstanding sieges until Saladin’s victory in 1189.
Administrative Center: Baldwin I’s court and later Mamluk school and
market facilitated governance and education. The castle managed the
lordship of Oultrejordain, overseeing the fertile Edom plateau, similar
to the civic functions of Jerash’s North Theatre.
Religious Site: The
two churches hosted Christian worship, baptisms, and ceremonies, serving
the Crusader garrison and residents. The Mamluks’ Islamic additions,
like the Kufic inscriptions, reflect a shift to Muslim administration,
paralleling the interfaith dynamics at Lot’s Cave.
Economic Hub: By
taxing trade and pilgrimage routes, the castle generated wealth,
supporting its large population. The market and storerooms ensured
economic resilience, akin to the commercial vibrancy along Jerash’s
Colonnaded Street.
Social Community: The castle’s 6,000 residents,
including soldiers, families, and administrators, formed a
self-contained community. After the Mamluk period, local clans inhabited
the castle until the 1950s, maintaining a cultural connection to the
surrounding villages.
Daily life involved military patrols, religious
services, trade management, and water retrieval via the secret passage.
The Mamluks’ school educated local elites, while the shrine below drew
pilgrims, creating a blend of martial, administrative, and spiritual
activities.
Montreal Castle is a mix of ruins and restored sections, with
significant damage from 19th-century conflicts and looting. The
Jordanian government, in collaboration with Italian archaeologists from
the University of Florence, has been excavating and restoring the site
since the 1990s, balancing preservation with authenticity.
Current State: Much of the castle is ruined, with collapsed walls,
eroded stones, and partially excavated passages. The Crusader churches,
Mamluk inscriptions, and secret tunnel are well-preserved highlights,
though the tunnel’s full extent remains unexplored. The castle’s “bones”
reveal its Crusader and Mamluk anatomy, as noted by visitors.
Restoration: Italian efforts have reconstructed parts of the entrance
gate, churches, and Baldwin’s court, but some restorations are
criticized as “amateurish,” with new stonework appearing too modern
compared to the ancient ruins. A balance between restored and untouched
sections maintains the castle’s historical feel.
Visitor Experience:
The castle is accessible via a steep climb from the base, doable for
healthy visitors (10–15 minutes). Parking is at the bottom, with a 3 JOD
golf cart option to the entrance. Entry is free with the Jordan Pass or
1 JOD otherwise. Local guides (5–10 JOD, often tipped) provide
historical context, as signage is minimal. The secret tunnel is a
highlight but requires caution due to its darkness and steepness. The
castle’s remote setting and stunning views of Jordan’s mountains and
desert enhance its appeal, though it’s less crowded than Karak or Petra.
Recent Tripadvisor reviews (2025) praise the castle’s “breathtaking”
location, “spiritual stature,” and the tunnel’s adventure, but some note
the lack of signage, advanced ruin state (“a pile of rocks”), and
inconsistent restoration quality. Visitors recommend sunset visits for
optimal light and hiring a guide for context, as the site’s history is
complex.
Montreal Castle is a powerful symbol of Jordan’s medieval past, with
multifaceted significance:
Crusader Legacy: As the first Crusader
fortress east of the Jordan, it represents the Kingdom of Jerusalem’s
expansion and the Crusades’ impact on the Middle East. Its fall to
Saladin in 1189 marked a turning point in Muslim-Christian conflicts,
contrasting with Jerash’s peaceful Greco-Roman heritage.
Mamluk
Contributions: The Mamluk renovations, with Kufic inscriptions and civic
adaptations, highlight Islamic architectural and cultural influence,
paralleling the Byzantine-Islamic synthesis at Lot’s Cave and the Church
of Saint George.
Military Architecture: The castle’s thick walls,
secret tunnel, and strategic hilltop design exemplify medieval
fortification, distinct from the urban planning of Jerash’s Colonnaded
Street or the religious focus of Madaba’s churches.
Cultural
Crossroads: The blend of Crusader (European Gothic) and Mamluk (Islamic)
elements reflects Jordan’s role as a historical melting pot, akin to
Madaba’s Greco-Roman-Byzantine mosaics and Lot’s Cave’s interfaith
reverence.
Touristic Appeal: Though less visited than Petra (30 km
away) or Karak, Shobak’s remote beauty, “pristine” landscape, and
ongoing excavations draw adventurers and history enthusiasts. Its
inclusion on Jordan’s tourism circuit, alongside Lot’s Cave and Madaba,
enhances its value.
Montreal Castle is a hidden gem on Jordan’s tourism circuit, located
30 km from Petra, 150 km from Wadi Rum, and 200 km from Amman along the
King’s Highway. Its remote, “pristine” landscape, described as
reminiscent of 1960s Jordan, offers a stark contrast to the urban
accessibility of Madaba or Jerash. Recent web sources (e.g.,
lonelyplanet.com, tripadvisor.com) and X posts emphasize its romantic,
windswept allure and historical depth. Key visitor insights include:
Access: Reachable by car or bus from Petra (15–20 JOD taxi
roundtrip) or Amman (25–30 JOD). The steep climb to the entrance takes
10–15 minutes, with a 3 JOD golf cart option. Entry is free with the
Jordan Pass or 1 JOD.
Experience: The castle’s ruins, secret tunnel,
and views are highlights, best seen at sunset for dramatic lighting.
Guides (5–10 JOD) are recommended due to minimal signage; a government
guide with historical expertise is praised. The tunnel is adventurous
but not for claustrophobic visitors.
Challenges: The advanced ruin
state and lack of signage can make navigation difficult without a guide.
Some restored sections appear too modern, detracting from authenticity.
The site is less developed than Petra or Karak, appealing to those
seeking solitude.
Nearby: Pair with Petra, Dana Biosphere Reserve, or
Lot’s Cave (100 km away) for a southern Jordan itinerary. The Abu
Suleiman al-Dirany shrine below adds a cultural stop.
An X post from
2022 highlights Shobak’s resilience against Saladin’s attacks,
underscoring its historical significance as a Crusader outpost.