Rozafa Castle, Albania

Rozafa Castle

Description

Rozafa Castle

RozafaCastle Museum
Open: 8:00 to 19:00
Entry fee: 150 LEK

Rozafa Castle, also known as Shkodër Castle, is a historic fortress located in northwestern Albania, just south of the city of Shkodër. Perched on a rocky hill rising 130 meters (430 feet) above sea level, it overlooks the confluence of the Buna and Drin rivers, with stunning views extending to Lake Shkodra (also known as Lake Scutari). This strategic position has made it a key defensive site for millennia, controlling vital trade routes and waterways in the region. Today, it stands as one of Albania's most iconic landmarks, blending ancient ruins with layers of historical modifications, and serves as a symbol of Albanian resilience and cultural heritage.

 

Historical Background

The history of Rozafa Castle spans from prehistoric times to the modern era, reflecting the turbulent past of the Balkans. Archaeological evidence indicates human settlement on the hill dating back to the Early Bronze Age, with the earliest fortifications constructed by the Illyrians in the 4th or early 3rd century BCE. This initial citadel served as the core of the Illyrian city of Scodra (or Skodra), the capital of tribes like the Labeates and Ardiaei under rulers such as King Gentius. During this period, the city flourished as a political and economic center.
In 168 BCE, during the Third Illyrian War, Roman forces under Lucius Anicius Gallus besieged and captured Scodra, marking the end of Illyrian independence. The Romans incorporated the site into their empire, followed by Byzantine control. Over the subsequent centuries, the castle changed hands among various powers, including the Duklja principality, the First Bulgarian Empire, the Serbian Grand Principality, the Kingdom of Serbia, the Serbian Empire, the Lordship of Zeta, and the Principality of Zaharia.
By the late 14th century, Venice took control, fortifying the castle extensively in the 15th century as a bulwark against Ottoman expansion along the eastern Adriatic coast. One of the most famous events was the Siege of Shkodër in 1478–1479 during the First Ottoman-Venetian War, where Ottoman forces under Sultan Mehmed II besieged the castle. Despite fierce resistance, the Venetians ceded it to the Ottomans in a peace agreement in April 1479. The Ottomans held the castle for over four centuries, using it as an administrative and military base until the Siege of Scutari in 1912–1913, when Montenegrin forces, part of the Balkan League, captured it after a grueling six-month siege.
In the 20th century, the castle saw involvement in both World Wars and became a symbol during Albania's National Awakening and path to independence in 1912. Archaeological excavations since 2011, led by teams including Polish archaeologist Piotr Dyczek, have revealed Hellenistic pottery, walls from the 3rd to 1st century BCE, amphorae fragments, and evidence of a larger Illyrian lower town along the riverbanks, confirming the site's extensive ancient urban footprint.

The confluence of the rivers Buna and Drini

Rozafa Castle

Architecture and Key Features

Rozafa Castle's architecture is a testament to its multifaceted history, with an irregular layout that conforms to the natural contours of the rocky hill, creating a naturally fortified structure. The castle spans approximately 9 hectares and is divided into three baileys (courtyards), connected by pathways and gates. The walls, primarily built from local limestone and brick, feature Cyclopean-style masonry from the Illyrian era, with later additions including Venetian reinforcements and Ottoman modifications.

Notable structures include:
Entrance Gate and Pathways: Visitors enter via a cobblestone path leading to the main gate, a fortified Venetian-era portal with defensive towers.
Venetian Tower: A prominent round tower offering panoramic views, used historically for surveillance.
Church-Mosque (St. Stephen's Cathedral/Fatih Sultan Mehmet Mosque): Originally a 13th-century Venetian Catholic church in the second bailey, it was converted into a mosque after the 1479 Ottoman conquest, featuring ruins that blend Gothic and Islamic elements.
Cisterns and Arsenal: Underground water reservoirs and storage facilities designed to withstand sieges, including a Venetian cistern with inscriptions.
Ossuary and Ottoman Remains: An ossuary for bones, an Ottoman road, and a 14th-15th century cemetery near the Lead Mosque (though the mosque itself is outside the main walls).
Illyrian Gateway: Ancient entrance with stalactites and milkweed sap, tied to local folklore.

The castle's design emphasizes defense, with high walls, battlements, and strategic positioning. Recent preservation efforts have focused on stabilizing these features through local and international collaborations.

Rozafa Castle

The Legend of Rozafa

Central to the castle's cultural significance is the poignant legend of Rozafa, a tale of sacrifice rooted in Albanian folklore and documented as early as 1505 by historian Marin Barleti. According to the story, three brothers (sometimes identified as members of the Mrnjavčević family in variants) attempted to build the castle, but the walls mysteriously collapsed each night. A wise old man advised them that the foundations required a human sacrifice: the wife who brought them food the next day must be immured alive in the walls. The brothers swore secrecy under the Albanian code of besa, but the two elder ones warned their wives, leaving the youngest's wife, Rozafa, unaware.
When Rozafa arrived with the meal, she learned her fate but selflessly agreed, on the condition that openings be left in the wall for her right eye (to watch her infant son), right hand (to caress him), right foot (to rock his cradle), and right breast (to nurse him). After her immurement, the walls stood firm. The legend symbolizes themes of maternal love, loyalty, and sacrifice, with locals believing that the "weeping wall"—where milkweed sap and limestone stalactites form—represents Rozafa's enduring milk. Women traditionally scrape these deposits to create remedies for lactation and to instill patriotic virtues in children. This motif echoes ancient earth mother goddess worship in Albanian beliefs and appears in similar Balkan tales, such as the Serbian epic The Building of Skadar.

 

Views and Surroundings

From the castle's ramparts, visitors are treated to breathtaking vistas of the turquoise rivers snaking through fertile valleys, the expansive Lake Shkodra, distant mountains, and the city of Shkodër below. These panoramic views highlight the site's strategic importance and natural beauty, making it a photographer's paradise.

 

Current Status and Tourism

Today, Rozafa Castle is owned by the Albanian state and designated as part of an archaeological park, open to the public year-round with a small entrance fee that supports preservation. It attracts around 50,000 visitors annually (as of 2017 data, with numbers likely growing), offering a museum within the walls that houses artifacts, including a life-sized sculpture of Rozafa by artist Skender Kraja. As of 2025, ongoing restoration projects, in partnership with international organizations, aim to conserve the site amid cultural events like summer concerts, folk festivals, and dance performances that celebrate Albanian heritage. Access is easy from Shkodër's center by car, taxi, or a short hike, though comfortable shoes are recommended due to uneven terrain. The best times to visit are spring or autumn for milder weather, and it's often combined with nearby attractions like the Mesi Bridge or Lake Shkodra excursions. Dining options in Shkodër feature traditional Albanian cuisine, enhancing the cultural immersion.