Location: Map
Rhodopes is one of the most isolated regions of Bulgaria. Famous for its traditional throat singing the region keeps its unique culture and traditions. Several natural amphitheatres were used since the ancient times for singing contests. Additionally almost every village claims to be the homeland of Orpheus, a legendary Greek singer.
Open: daily
Devil's Threat Cave is one of the largest and most famous
caves in the Rhodopes. These natural underground system
tunnels have been known since the time of the Antiquity. Ancient
Greeks believed that it was one of the entrances to the
Underground Kingdom of the Hades. People believed that legendary
Thracian singer Orpheus once lived here. He fell in love with a
lovely Euridice. They intended to get married, but on the
wedding day angry gods send a poisonous snake to kill the bride.
She died and her soul went in Kingdom of the Dead deep
underground. Orpheus descended there and tried to convince God
of the Dead, Hades, to give back his loved one. Orpheus
beautiful voice and his ability to play his lyre persuaded god
to let Euridice go. There was only one condition. Euridice was
suppose to follow her groom, but Orpheus couldn't look back
until he reached the light of day. Orpheus was too tempted to
look back at the love of his life and he turned around. Euridice
slipped from the embrace of her lover and returned to the
Kingdom of the Dead deep in the Devil's Threat Cave. She stayed
there for good this time.
Open: daily
Tel. 03419 200
Open: 9am- 5pm
May- Sept
Entrance Fee: 4 lv
Yagodina Cave is situated
near a small village of Yagodina in the Buynovo Gorge. It is one of
the most famous caves in the Rhodopes mountains and Bulgaria
in general with a total length of 8.5 km, although only a small
portion is open to the general public. The temperature inside the
underground tunnels range between 6 and 8 degrees Celsius, so dress
warmly. Modern visitors get inside the cave through an artificial
entrance that was cut in the 20th century, however the natural
entrance of the cave lies few kilometres down the Buynovo River
Gorge. Several archaeological digs conducted here by Bulgarian
scientists discovered remains and artefacts from the Neolithic
times.
Name
The name of the Rhodope Mountains is of
Thracian origin. It was first discovered in Herodotus (5th century
BC). In the ancient tradition is preserved only one etymological
legend, which clarifies (according to the notions of the era) the
name and appearance of the mountain. It is known through Trasil of
Mendes (1st century AD) and Pseudo-Plutarch (3rd - 4th century AD):
“The Rhodopes and Hemus were brother and sister and began to desire
each other, as Hemus called her. Hera, and she named her beloved
Zeus. Because the gods felt offended and suffered so much, they
turned them into the mountains of the same name. Undoubtedly, the
same legend is meant by Ovid when he speaks of "the Rhodopes and
Hemus, now icy mountains, but once mortal, who claimed the names of
the greatest gods." Variants of this legend come to life in
Bulgarian folklore.
It should be noted that it is more
correct in relation to antiquity to use the name Rhodope (Rhodope),
instead of the Rhodopes, because in ancient texts the oronym always
appears in the singular. This is also proved by the appearance of a
personification of the mountain on the reverse of four Philippopolis
coin issues, representing a female image with the Rhodope
inscription clearly referring to it.
In the Middle Ages the
mountain was known as Slaveevi forests (Slaveevi mountains), and
during the Ottoman rule - as Dospatski mountains.
Physico-geographical characteristics
Geographical location, area,
altitude distribution, peaks
The Rhodopes occupy the eastern part
of the Rila-Rhodope massif, in the central part of the Balkan
Peninsula. The mountain stretches over the territory of Southern
Bulgaria (parts of the districts of Blagoevgrad, Pazardzhik, Plovdiv
and Haskovo and entirely of the districts of Smolyan and Kardzhali)
and Northern Greece.
Their length from west to east is about
240 km, and the width from north to south - exceeds 100 km. The
total area of the Rhodopes is about 18,000 km², of which 14,738
km² are on Bulgarian territory, which represents 81.88% of its
entire territory.
The average altitude of the mountain is 785
m - it is a medium-high mountain. More than ⅓ of the mountain area
(36.45%) is occupied by low and hilly hills with an altitude of 200
to 600 m, the other close ⅓ (30.83%) is occupied by medium-high
parts (between 1000 and 1600 m), and the rest of the mountain falls
at the lowest (from 0 to 200 m) and above 1600 m altitudes.
Boundaries
The borders of the Rhodopes are the following:
Western border - From the Greek village of Statmos, located 10 km
southwest of the town of Xanthi, the border climbs northwest along
the valley of the Mesta River, near the Bulgarian village of
Godeshevo crosses our state border and continues north along the
river valley through the Gotse Delchev Gorge. Maiden gorge and
reaches the Razlog valley. This border separates the Rhodopes from
the Urvil and Bozdag mountains in Greece and Pirin in Bulgaria.
Northwestern border - To the northwest the Rhodopes border Rila.
From the village of Banya the border ascends along the valley of
Mesta and its left tributary Dreshtenets, passes through the saddles
Avramova (1455 m) and Yundola (1400 m) and along the valley of the
river Yadenitsa descends to the river Maritsa near the town of
Belovo.
Northern border - To the north, the Rhodopes border the
Upper Thracian lowland, and here its slopes are significantly
steeper than the southern ones facing the Aegean Thrace. The border
starts from the town of Belovo and follows the northern slopes of
the hills Alabak, Karkaria, Besaparski, Chernatitsa, Dobrostan,
Dragoyna, Mechkovets, Haskovo hilly region, Huhla, Gradishte and
Gorata and reaches the town of Svilengrad.
Eastern border - The
eastern border of the mountain is on Greek territory and is very
indefinite. In general, it follows the extreme eastern low branches,
which almost reach the valley of the lower reaches of the Maritsa
River.
Southern border - The southern border of the mountain
starts west of the Maritsa delta, passes north of the city of
Alexandroupolis, follows the southern, western and northwestern
slopes of Mount Ovcharitsa and the western slope of Mount Butterfly.
from there it continues west, following the foothills of the
Maglenik ridge and the Gyumyurjinski Snezhnik, Momchil and Ruyan
mountains, and reaches the village of Statmos by the Mesta River.
Division
According to geological-tectonic and morphographic
features, the Rhodopes are divided into two parts - Western (high)
and Eastern (low). The border between these two parts starts at the
village of Iskra, ascends along the Kayaliyka River (right tributary
of the Maritsa), passes through the Kitkata saddle and descends
along the Borovitsa River valley to the Arda River at the Kardzhali
Dam. From there it climbs up the Arda Valley and its right tributary
Madanska River, crosses our state border and along the Sushitsa
River (flows into the Aegean Sea) reaches the Greek village of
Poliantri, 15 km west of Gyumyurjina.
Western Rhodopes
The
Western Rhodopes cover an area of 8732.1 km2 (or 59.25%) and the
higher part of the Rhodopes. Their average altitude is 1098 m, and
more than half of their area (51.9) is occupied by lands with an
altitude between 1000 and 1600 m. They have a mid-mountainous
appearance with a highly indented, dense and deeply dug river
network. The valley of the river Vacha divides them into two parts -
western Dabrashko-Batashka and eastern Perelik-Prespa. In the first
part the highest peak is Golyama Syutkya (2186 m), and in the second
part is the peak of the Rhodopes in the Mursalitsa ridge - Golyam
Perelik (2191 m). The western part has an asymmetric orohydrographic
plan with a well-developed ridge system, delineated by deep valleys
to the north and a very narrow area to the south. The main watershed
between the catchment areas of Maritsa and Mesta is shifted to the
southwest along the wide and powerful ridge of the
Velijsko-Videnishki section. The Alabak hill deviates from the main
watershed hill to the north, Batashka mountain is its extreme
branches Karkaria and Besaparski hills. To the south of the main
hill stretches the wide hill Dabrash. The eastern part of the
Western Rhodopes comprises two powerful watersheds: in the northwest
Pereliksko-Prespanski and in the southeast Ardinski part, separated
by the valley of the river Cherna (left tributary of the Arda). The
powerful hills Chernatitsa, Radyuva Mountain and Dobrostan deviate
from the Perelik-Prespa part to the north. To the west are the
Chepinska, Batashka and Dospatska valleys, and to the east are the
high Chepelarska and Smolyanska valleys, as well as the small
Hvoynenska valley. The largest Rhodope rivers originate from the
Western Rhodopes: Vacha, Chepinska, Chepelarska, Arda, Dospat, Stara
Reka and others, which flow into deep gorge valleys.
Eastern
Rhodopes
The Eastern Rhodopes cover an area of 6005.4 km² (or
40.75%) and the lower part of the Rhodopes. Their average altitude
is only 329 m, ie. they are more than three times lower than the
Western Rhodopes. Nearly 3/4 of their area (71.5%) is occupied by
lands with an altitude between 200 and 600 m. Unlike the Western
Rhodopes, the Eastern Rhodopes are lower, with a low mountain and
hilly appearance. Although they retain their massive mountainous
character, they are divided by wide valleys in which gorges narrow
alternate. The ridges of the mountain are less torn and have a
flattened appearance. In their orographic plan there are three
central mountain ridges: to the west between the valleys of the
rivers Arda and Varbitsa the mighty Yellow section; to the north of
the Arda valley alternate low, rounded and mostly elongated hills -
Dragoyna, Mechkovets, Chukata, Gorata, Gradishte and Huhla and the
low Haskovo hilly area. In the southernmost part of the Eastern
Rhodopes are the northern slopes of the high border hills Maglenik
and Gyumyurjinski Snezhnik, where Peak Veikata (1463 m) is located,
which is the southernmost Bulgarian point and the highest peak in
the Bulgarian part of the Eastern Rhodopes. The highest peak in the
eastern part of the Rhodopes is Orlitsata peak (1482 m) in Greece.
From the Maglenik ridge to the north to the Arda valley, the mighty
Steep Hill and the Black Mountain deviate along the lower Irantepe
and Sirte. In this part the larger valleys are the Valchepol and
Dzhebel valleys.
The Arda River flows through the Eastern
Rhodopes from west to east, and its main tributaries here are:
Perperek, Varbitsa, Krumovitsa and Byala Reka. In the past, the
Eastern Rhodopes were occupied by a water basin with active
underwater volcanism, so in addition to sedimentary rocks, volcanic
rocks were formed here - andesites, rhyolites, tuffs and others. As
a result of the external relief-forming forces, bizarre rock forms
have formed from these rocks.
Geological structure, geomorphological features, minerals
The
Rhodopes are built of metamorphic rocks - gneisses, shales, marbles,
amphibolites, and others, among which are embedded serpentinites,
granites and other intrusions. Slightly metamorphosed Mesozoic rocks
(shales, quartzites, diabases) have been found in the Eastern
Rhodopes. Above the metamorphites lies a powerful cover of Young
Paleogene sedimentary and volcanic rocks - sandstones, marls,
conglomerates, limestones, andesites, latites, rhyolites, tuffs,
tuffs and others. Pliocene lake sediments are deposited on the
periphery of the mountain.
The formation of the modern
appearance of the Rhodopes is carried out during the late Tertiary.
During the Miocene, Pliocene and Quaternary the mountain was
subjected to cyclic denudation, as a result of which four main
denudation levels were formed - flat surfaces (four in the Western
Rhodopes and three in the Eastern). The oldest and highest
denudation level - the Old Miocene is represented only in the
Western Rhodopes and occupies the vast ridge plains between 1800 and
2000 m, above which rise the secluded fortresses of the highest
Rhodope peaks. The second denudation level in terms of height and
age - the Young Miocene level is observed in both parts of the
mountain, as in the Western Rhodopes it is located at an altitude of
1300 - 1600 m, and in the Eastern Rhodopes it is the highest at 1000
- 1100 m and occupies the ridges. of Gyumyurjinski Snezhnik and
Maglenik. The third level in height and age is the Old Pliocene
(Pontic). It is also observed in both parts of the Rhodopes, as in
the west it is at an altitude of 1000 - 1200 m and occupies the
ridges of the lower hills, and in the Eastern Rhodopes it is 550 -
800 m and covers the tops of the hills Yellow part, Steep hill,
Irantepe and Sirta and the ridges of the lowest hills Chukata and
Gora. The last lowest and youngest denudation level is the Young
Pliocene (Levantine), which in the Western Rhodopes is at an
altitude of 700 - 900 m and is a typical mountain slope step,
covering mainly the northern slopes of the Rhodopes facing the Upper
Thracian lowlands. In the Eastern Rhodopes this level is located at
350 - 550 m and covers the lower parts and the foothills of most of
the hills in the eastern part.
During the Quaternary the
river network is cut rhythmically, due to which a series of river
terraces is formed in the valleys of the main rivers - from 5 to 7
in the Western Rhodopes and 6 - 7 in the Eastern.
The
mountain is rich in minerals: lead-zinc, iron ore, asbestos and
others. Volcanic tuffs, marble, etc. are exploited for construction
needs.
Climate
In the Western Rhodopes, due to the higher
altitude, a mountainous climate prevails. The climate there is
mitigated by the warm Mediterranean air masses penetrating the
rivers. This climate mitigation is more noticeable in the Eastern
Rhodopes, because there the altitude is lower and the river valleys
offer an easy way to the warmer air from the south. In the Western
Rhodopes the Mediterranean influence is weaker, and in the Eastern -
stronger, which is evident from the average annual temperatures and
the average annual amount of precipitation for five meteorological
stations: Velingrad 9 ° С, 550 mm; Smolyan 8.5 ° C, 981 mm;
Zlatograd 10.9 ° C, 986 mm; Kardzhali 12.5 ° C, 663 mm; Ivaylovgrad
12.7 ° C, 736 mm. In the Western Rhodopes the precipitation is
mainly during the summer months, and in the Eastern - in the winter.
Water
The Rhodopes are a mountain with a dense and complex
river network. The mountain belongs entirely to the Aegean
watershed, as the rivers springing and flowing through it flow to
two main rivers (Maritsa and Mesta) or flow directly into the Aegean
Sea. In almost 80% of the territory of the mountain, except for its
southwestern and southern parts, the outflow is directed to the
Maritsa River through its right tributaries Chepinska River, Stara
Reka, Vacha, Parvenetska River, Cherkezitsa, Mechka, Kayaliyka,
Banska River, Harmanliyska River, Biserska Reka, Arda, Luda Reka and
other smaller ones. The southwestern parts of the mountain belong to
the catchment area of the Mesta River and its left tributaries -
Zlataritsa, Kanina, Chechka Bistritsa, Dospat, Dyavolska River and
others. In the southernmost parts of the Rhodopes (in Greece) the
rivers flow directly into the Aegean Sea - Xanthi River, Sushitsa,
Aksu, Tarnava and others.
In the high belt of the Western Rhodopes the large amount of
precipitation, the manifestation of prolonged snow retention,
insignificant evaporation, the large slope of the relief and the
predominant waterproof geological base are prerequisites for the
high value of the runoff module (over 25 l / s / km2). Within the
average altitude zone of the area, due to the lower amount of
precipitation and the stronger evaporation, the runoff modulus
decreases to 10 - 15 l / s / km2. In the low belt and at the foot of
the mountain slopes, at the contact with the Upper Thracian lowland,
its value is the lowest (2 - 3 l / s / km²) due to the small amount
of precipitation, the significant evaporation, the small slope of
the relief and the permeable geological base.
In the Eastern
Rhodopes, the rivers have a predominant rain-snow supply and a
pronounced winter maximum of the outflow. Due to the significantly
lower altitude, the much stronger Mediterranean influence, the
exposure of the slopes and in this connection different evaporation
and different water permeability of the geological base, the modulus
of river flow in the Eastern Rhodopes varies widely, ranging from 5
to 25 l / s / km².
Most of the rivers in the Rhodopes flow
into deep gorge valleys, which is a prerequisite for the
construction of hydraulic facilities and the utilization of their
large water resources. Some of the largest Bulgarian and Greek dams
have been built in the mountain: Dospat, Shiroka Polyana, Batak,
Golyam Beglik, Vacha, Krichim, Tsankov Kamak, Kardzhali, Studen
Kladenets, Ivaylovgrad, Tisavros, Platanovrisi and many other
smaller ones.
Soils
The soil cover in the Western Rhodopes
is significantly influenced by the nature of the climate, the
geological base and the peculiarities of the relief. The foothills
and the main belt of the mountain slopes are occupied by cinnamon
forest soils, higher in the middle belt and above all on the
northern slopes light brown soils predominate, and even higher
between 1500 - 1900 m are distributed mainly dark brown forest
soils. In the valleys and valley bottoms the young accumulative
deposits are accompanied by alluvial soils. In the eastern Rhodopes
along the valley of the Arda River and on the other larger rivers
the alluvial soils are widespread, and in the other higher parts of
the district cinnamon forest soils predominate. On the northern
slopes of the hills in the eastern part there are also light brown
forest soils. Much of the Haskovo hilly region is occupied by
smolnitsa.
Flora and fauna
The great climatic and soil
diversity determine the great plant diversity in the Rhodopes. More
than 2,000 species of higher plants have been identified on the
territory of the mountain, of which 90 are Balkan endemics and
highly endangered species. In the lower parts of the Eastern
Rhodopes the forests give way to the sub-Mediterranean low-stem
species - Virgil oak, breccia, hornbeam, wild pear, dracaena, red
juniper and others.
At an altitude of over 800 m, forests of
common sessile oak, Moesian beech, hornbeam, ash, maple, six, etc.
In the coniferous belt, which is developed mainly in the Western
Rhodopes, there are common spruce, white pine, black pine and beech.
Shrub vegetation and alpine meadows predominate at higher altitudes.
Human activity
Population
The ethnic composition
(Thracians, Greeks, Bulgarians, Vlachs, Armenians, Turks, Cumans,
Pechenegs, Tatars, Latins and Jews) of the old population of the
Rhodopes is described in detail in the following title by Catherine
Asdrasha, who, however, failed to consider separately the presence
of the Thracians and the Slavs, and the Paulicians - Armenians is
included in the Bulgarian ethnic group. By the way, in the modern
historiography as a whole there are no studies on the ancient
population of the Rhodopes.
Places related to the Rhodopes:
Smolyan, Vievo, Madan, Chepelare, Momchilovtsi, Stoykite, Gela,
Shiroka Laka, Bachkovo, Asenovgrad, Zlatograd, Momchilgrad, Garnati,
Bostina, Kardzhali, Nedelino, Ardino, Devin, Buynovo, Dospat, Sarn
Batak, Krichim, Rakitovo, Velingrad, Bratsigovo, Peshtera, Rudozem,
Lucky, Selcha, Startsevo, Borino.
Tourism
Ski resorts: Pamporovo, Tsigov Chark, Chepelare.
Mineral
baths and spas: Velingrad, Narechenski Bani, Devin, Banite, Haskovo
Mineral Baths.
Beautiful places: Yundola, Trigrad Gorge,
Wonderful Bridges, Belintash, Devil's Bridge, Buynovo Gorge, Wolf's
Leap, Kastrakli Reserve, Kemerov Bridge and others.
Caves:
Snezhanka, Devil's Throat, Yagodinska Cave, Uhlovitsa, Martsiganitsa
(1412 m), Topchika (727 m), Ivanova Dupka, Hralupata, Yamata,
Biserna, Olimpiyska, Lednitsata, Gargina Dupka (524 m), Vodna Cave,
Troitsata [8]
Christian places of worship: Bachkovo
Monastery, Cross Forest.
Archaeological sites: Perperikon,
Belintash, Tatul, Tsepina, Ustra fortress, megalithic and rock
sanctuaries, Goz Tepe - the oracle of Dionysus, Assen's fortress.
Farm
In the Rhodopes are developed the mining and ore
processing industry, logging and woodworking, electricity
generation, metalworking, machine building, light industry.
The predominant transport in the mountains is road. Sections or the
entire routes of 29 roads of the State Road Network pass through it
on the territory of Bulgaria: 2 first-class roads with №№ 5 and 8; 5
second-graders with №№ 37, 58, 59, 84 and 86; 22 third graders with
№№ 197, 375, 376, 377, 505, 506, 507, 508, 509, 591, 597, 598, 593,
808, 842, 843, 861, 862, 863, 865, 866 and 867.
In the
Eastern Rhodopes from north to south, from Dimitrovgrad to Podkova
passes a section of the route of the railway line Ruse - Gorna
Oryahovitsa - Stara Zagora - Podkova, and in the Western Rhodopes -
part of the route (station Krichim - station Peshtera) of the
railway Stamboliyski - Peshtera and part of the route (Varvara
station - Avramovi kolibi station) of the narrow-gauge railway line
Septemvri - Velingrad - Dobrinishte.