Rovaniemi

 

Rovaniemi is a Finnish city and the regional center of Lapland, located near the Arctic Circle at the confluence of the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki rivers.

Rovaniemi is the provincial center, a university town and the center of trade, administration and education in its region, as well as a sports and culture city. Rovaniemi was separated as a township from Rovaniemi rural municipality (the former Rovaniemi municipality) in 1929, and in 1960 Rovaniemi township became one of the first six so-called new towns in Finland. Rovaniemi, which merged with Rovaniemi Rural Municipality at the beginning of 2006, is the 17th largest city in Finland in terms of population (in 2020), but the largest in Finland and Europe in terms of area. The city is also the second largest city in northern Finland in terms of population after Oulu. Rovaniemi is the northernmost city in Finland, although the central area of Kemijärvi is further north than the central area of Rovaniemi.

Rovaniemi's neighboring municipalities are Kittilä and Sodankylä in the north, Kolari, Pello and Ylitornio in the west, Tervola, Ranua and Posio in the south and Kemijärvi and Pelkosenniemi in the east.

The word rova means a wooded ridge or sparsely wooded upland. The word is a loan from the Sami language, where roavvi means an old fire area or a forested danger or ridge. The name of Rovaniemi in Sami languages is: Ruávinjargâ in Inari Sami, Roavvenjárga, Roavenjárga in Northern Sami and Ruäʹvnjargg in Koltan Sami.

 

Sights

Rovaniemi operates, among others, a theater, the Lapland Chamber Orchestra, the Lapland Military Band, the Lapland Student Theater, the Lapland Music College, the Lapland Ballet College, the theater Lentävä poro and, for example, the folk dance group Rimpparemmi.

The Rovaniemi Art Museum is the regional art museum of Lapland and its collections include 1,500 works of Finnish contemporary art.

Rovaniemi has a lively folk dance and folk music scene, the most famous ensembles are probably Rimpparemmi and Siepakat. In March 2007, a large folk music event, Samuel's Poloneesi, was organized in the city. The international folklore festival Jutajaiset takes place in Rovaniemi every year.

In summer, Konttinen's summer theater and the new Flying Reindeer's Summer Theater operate in Rovaniemi. The Konttinen summer theater was founded in 1996 and is located on the banks of the Kemijoki next to the Konttinen field. Konttinen's summer theater has performed plays for the whole family, such as Pekka Töpöhäntä and Cinderella. The Summer Theater of the Flying Reindeer was built in the summer of 2012 from forklift pallets and recycled wood on the upper platform of the Pekankatu parking garage. In addition to theater, the pop-up summer theater also organized other cultural programs, such as live music evenings.

The city of Rovaniemi annually awards a recognition award for cultural achievements. In Rovaniemi, the seven-day newspaper Lapin Kansa is published, which can be ordered throughout the province, and the twice-weekly city newspaper Uusi Rovaniemi and the free distribution newspaper Lappilainen, formerly Roi Press, which is distributed throughout Lapland.

Rovaniemi was nominated for the European capital of culture for 2011. The other candidates were Turku, Tampere, Mänttä, Oulu, Lahti and Jyväskylä.

Proceedings
Several large Christian summer events have been organized in Rovaniemi. The summer clubs of the old stadium players have been organized in Rovaniemi eight times, in 1912, 1925, 1931, 1936, 1951, 1965, 1979 and 1997.

In the summer of 2007, Simerock was organized for the first time in the city, replacing the earlier Rovaniemi Rock festival. Down By The Kemijoki festival was organized between 1992 and 2007. Down By The Kemijoki made a comeback in the summer of 2012. In the summer of 2016, the City Festival RolloPOP will be organized, which will bring the biggest names of Finnish rock and pop to the renewed Keskuskenta.

Arctic Design Week has been an annual event since 2009.

Music
Rock and pop bands from Rovaniemi that have made more than one album and achieved some degree of success have included Absoluuttinen Nollapiste, Greenhouse A.C., Jalla Jalla, The Nightingales, Tulenkantajat and Supperheads. Finland's first black metal band Beherit and rap duo Hannibal & Soppa are also originally from Rovaniemi.

Rovaniemi is also home to Linnunlaulupubi, an influencer of the new generation of underground culture, whose leading figures include singer/songwriter Jaakko Laitinen. In recent years, the Arctic Live Entertainment association has brought numerous domestic top names in heavy metal to Rovaniemi.

 

History

Early history

The history of Rovaniemi's settlement dates back to the Stone Age 8,000 years ago (around 6,000 BC). The 40-centimeter-long pine elk head found in Lehtojärvi has been dated to nearly 8,000 years old, and is thus the oldest wooden sculpture found in Finland; because its hollowed-out neck is suitable both for its size, position and shape for the bow of the ship, the hole on its side is suitable for a pin with which the sculpture would have been attached to the log, and when the ships in stone age petroglyphs usually have a deer's head as the prow, it is assumed that the sculpture was once the prow of the ship. A campsite has been held at Vaarala Matkavaara around the same time. Discoveries made in Ylikylä (treads, scrapers and spearheads.) have also been dated to approximately the same time. The current urban area, in Valionranta opposite the center on the Ounasvaara side, has been permanently inhabited in at least two periods: 2920–2690 BC. and around 1700 BC. – 300 shares. This result was reached based on the excavations, related discoveries and analyzes carried out in Valionranta in 2013. It is assumed that the inhabitants of the Stone Age supported themselves by elk and deer hunting and fishing; After Lake Anclylus turned into the salty Littoral Sea around 5500 BC. seals and salmon became important sources of food. The objects preserved from the first 3,000 years are made of stone, wood and bone, the most characteristic being the large turas, or the so-called Rovaniemi turas. Pottery making was learned in the Rovaniemi region around 4200 BC.

The first bronze objects arrived from the east around 1300–1000 BC. The first signs of farming are near Ylikylä, where a pollen analysis shows that seasonal activity referring to hoeing or burning began between 750 and 530 BC. about. On the east side of Ounasvaara, in Sierijärvi's Riitakanranta and Kotijängä, approximately 2,000-year-old iron smelting furnaces have been found, where iron was produced from local marsh or lake ore with the help of charcoal.

Permanent peasant settlement of the area began in the 12th–13th centuries, although the area has apparently been continuously inhabited since the Stone Age. The strong Hämälä-Satakunta element of the place name shows that the oldest new settlement came mainly from there. Later, mainly Hämä people came to Rovaniemi as settlers, but also true Finns, Karelians, Viennese, Swedes, Norwegians, Kainuus and Germans. Due to this fact, the dialect of the Rovaniemi region is a versatile mixture of different dialects and even different languages. However, the migration has not been very large-scale, because even in the 1540s, the population of Rovaniemi was just under 200 people, some of them descendants of Stone Age residents. Sami people also lived in the area, as evidenced by nomenclature (e.g. Kolpene Sami. Kolpa 'dry cloth'), artefact finds and genealogy. When Finland's local administration was organized, the Rovaniemi region became part of the Kemi region in the early 15th century; however, there was no permanent state representative in the region, and official matters were still handled in the 16th and 17th centuries, as a rule, in Kemi. Rovaniemi is mentioned for the first time in documents on September 7, 1453, when the Vout of Ostrobothnia confirmed the land deal concerning the properties of Korkalo and Rovaniemi. Until the 18th century, the Rovaniemi area was called Korkala.

From the time the administration was organized, Rovaniemi belonged to the parish of Kemi. However, for a long time there was not a single churchman in the area, and even in the 16th century, the people of Rovaniemi still had to make a mandatory trip to church in Kemi a few times a year. The Finnish ancient faith with its gods, elves, spirits, ghosts and the dead flourished alongside Christianity for a long time; as late as 1803, Jakob Fellman said that he saw a seida near the Muurola salmon dam, to which food and tobacco were sacrificed. At the beginning of the 17th century, a chapel congregation under Kemi was formed in Rovaniemi, and the first church was built in 1605–1611. It was destroyed by the people of Vienna in 1611. The new church was built by 1622, it was replaced by a new church in 1688, and this in turn was later replaced by the church burned in the Lapland War in 1817. At first, the vicar of Kemi held services in these churches a few times a year, but in the late 1630s Rovaniemi got its first chaplain, Christer Eric's.

In 1725, the population of the Rovaniemi area was around 450. Population growth accelerated in the 18th century, as in other parts of Finland: the limit of one thousand people was exceeded in the 1770s and the limit of 2,000 people in the early 1820s. The Rovaniemi region was separated from Kemi in 1785, when King Kustaa III confirmed the status of independent Rovaniemi parish and Rovaniemi parish. At the end of the 18th century, the current center, Korkalonniemi, started to become the center of the keeper: the chaplain and the locksmith used to live there, the border viscal came there, and the commission land surveyor lived variously in Ylikylä or Saarenkylä. Craftsmen and professionals also concentrated in the Korkalonniemi and partly Saarenkylä area.

In the second half of the 18th century, small-scale industrial activity also began to sprout in the area. The demand for timber in Europe and especially in England grew, which inspired two people from Oulu to apply for permission to establish a sawmill on the banks of the Raudanjoki in 1779; the application was accepted but the project failed due to lack of money. Lieutenant Magnus Fredrik Clementeoff from Rovaniemi and chaplain Esaias Fellman applied for permission to establish a sawmill on the banks of Sinetänjoki in 1780. The Royal College of Chambers confirmed the permit in 1782, and the sawmill probably started operating in 1784. Getting a permanent sawyer in 1790 made the operation more efficient, but the production was still modest, hardly more than 5,000 boards per year. In the following decades, the operation gradually became more efficient, and in the record year 1856, 15,120 boards were sawn. In Raudanjoki, two merchants from Ostrobothnia applied for a license to establish in 1837, and the Finnish Senate granted it to them in 1839. The place was determined to be Hakoköngäs in Raudanjoki, about 5 kilometers from Kemijoki. The operation of the sawmill began in the fall of 1840. In the record year 1856, 23,844 boards were sawn there. The third sawmill at the mouth of Meltausjoki, a few tens of kilometers upstream of Sinetä Ounasjoki, was granted a foundation permit in 1846. In total, these sawmills employed just over 100 professionals in the mid-19th century during the spring and summer seasons.

 

The rise of Rovaniemi as the center of trade, transport and administration in Lapland

Until the middle of the 19th century, Rovaniemi was a group of small rural villages, whose few inhabitants (about 2,800 still in 1850 in an area the size of present-day Rovaniemi) earned their living mainly from farming and livestock farming, with fishing and hunting being the most important side livelihoods. The prosperity of Rovaniemi began with the rise of Finnish forestry in the second half of the 19th century. Rovaniemi did not become a center of wood processing, although the sawmills established in the area (in addition to those mentioned above, e.g. the Pitkäniemi sawmill completed in 1901 on the site of the current Arktikum in Sahanperä) had considerable local importance. On the other hand, the central location in terms of log warehouses and the good traffic connections for the time at the confluence of the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki made Rovaniemi a significant traffic and trade center and later also an administrative center.

The highway to Kemi in 1839 connected Rovaniemi to the road network of the kingdom. In the following decades, road construction works that progressed slowly in Lapland mostly connected Rovaniemi to various local centers. Log harvesting, which began in the 1860s - the swimming of logs along the Kemi and Ounasjoki rivers to Kemi - emphasized Rovaniemi's position as a logistics hub. The railway completed in 1909 sealed Rovaniemi's position as a logistical center. At the beginning of the 20th century, steamboat traffic was an important connection between Rovaniemi and the tops of the Kemi and Ounasjoki. Construction of Rovaniemi Airport began in 1939 at its current location, and the first two grass-covered runways were completed in 1940.

Before the 1860s, there were no shops in Rovaniemi, but the people of Rovaniemi made their purchases from each other, from merchants in cities (e.g. Kemi) or from Viennese Karelia street vendors called laukuroyssi. The first land store got its license in the early 1860s, and the prosperity brought by forestry and the convenient location of the church village as a transit point increased the number of stores in the community to thirteen by 1877. The first pharmacy came in the 1880s, and in 1898 the number of shops was already 27. In 1906, the people of Rovaniemi founded a cooperative shop for themselves, and Työväen Osuusliike Lapinmaa started in 1922. At first, shops were only established near the church, but soon they began to appear in the countryside as well, and in addition, in connection with the logjavotos, so-called savotta shops, where local residents could also shop.

Along with the shops, the Rovaniemi market became an important economic institution. In 1880, the church village received market rights, and the first market was organized in February 1881. Soon they began to gain national fame, and at the turn of the century the market was already an important commercial event. They were held three times a year: the week-long main market in February, the midsummer market and the Mikkelin market in the fall. The market was a large, multicultural and colorful event where people came from all over Finland and even from neighboring countries. Among others, Russians, Norwegians, Swedes, Jews, Romani and Tatars sold fabrics, household items, tools, etc. to the residents who got rich from forest sales in the area or who made an extra living by forest work, and the locals sold e.g. Mostly furs for brokers from England.

In the wake of the economic upswing, live farming also progressed. The first library was built in 1860 and the first bookshop in 1895. The first folk school began its operations in the fall of 1870 in Rantavitikka; it was Northern Finland's first public school established outside the cities of that time. In Rovaniemi, there were far more children of public school age than the school could accommodate, so in 1882 two itinerant school teachers were hired, who stayed in each village for three weeks at a time before moving on to the next; in this way, about two-thirds of the Rovaniemi children of that time could be offered education. In 1902, Jaatila, Namma and Saarenkylä public schools started, and in 1908 there were already 10 public schools in Rovaniemi. The first middle school (Rovaniemi Keskikoulu, later Rovaniemi Yhteislyseo, nowadays Lyseonpuisto high school) started in 1908. The first newspaper, Rovaniemi Sanomat, started to appear in 1909, but because it had to be printed in Kemi, which was far from difficult transport links (printers were only allowed to be in towns), only 34 issues were published. When the law change allowed printing presses also in rural areas, the Rovaniemi newspaper was founded in 1921, which appeared three times a week. When it soon became connected to the coalition party, in 1928 the rural allies of the locality founded the People of Lapland.

In 1867, Rovaniemi got its own municipal administration, separate from the parish. The church village of Rovaniemi was founded in 1875. The church village of Rovaniemi was formed into a densely populated settlement in 1901, and after a long struggle, it received township rights in 1929; in the same context, the township was separated from the Rovaniemi rural municipality, which surrounds the township on all sides. Kauppala became the administrative center of Lapland County, founded in 1938.

 

Continuation war and the German garrison

In the subsequent war, Rovaniemi served as a garrison town for the Germans. There was not a single building stock in the area suitable for military use: the joint staff of the Germans and Finns was in the national school, the German officers' club was in an almost hundred-year-old farmhouse, and so on. Because of this, the Germans began large-scale construction work and built a large number of buildings (barracks, depots, warehouses, canopies, watch house, officers' club, etc.) and land construction sites (sports fields, roads, battle stations etc.) ), who quickly changed Rovaniemi's previously small fragmented areas from a rustic cityscape to a small-town one in a relatively large area in the current center and its outskirts. The nomenclature used by the people of Rovaniemi has remained from that time, for example, the sports field named after Erwin Rommel, which was built by German soldiers. The Germans also cleared Ounasvaara's first slalom slope in 1943; the commander of the German army, Eduard Dietl, was an avid skier.

At the end of hostilities between Finland and the Soviet Union on September 4, 1944, the requirement was to expel the Germans by September 15, 1944. The residents of Kauppala and the rural community went to the evacuation center with the help of the Germans. The town had 8,233 residents at the time. Of these, 4,800 were evacuated in Sweden, the rest in southern Finland.

 

The destruction of Rovaniemi in 1944

In the war in Lapland, the German troops used scorched earth tactics when retreating. In the town of Rovaniemi, the Germans' own barracks were burned on October 7. The other buildings of the store were burned or blown up between the 10th and 16th. October, and the destruction was completed on October 14 by a 400-ton ammunition train that apparently accidentally exploded in the center of the railway station. On the same day, Suutarinkorva and Ounaskoski bridges were blown up. Just before retreating north on October 16, the Germans set the Rovaniemi church on fire with fuel bottles. The store was completely destroyed: an estimated 90 percent of the buildings were destroyed. On the countryside side, the Germans destroyed about 60 percent of the building stock.

 

Reconstruction

The first residents who were evacuated on the Finnish side returned right at the end of November. The post office was opened in the railway station building on December 1, 1944. The temporary municipal office of Maalaiskunna was opened on November 25, the equivalent of the township in December, as well as the first shops. The first train from the south arrived on April 15, 1945. The majority of the rural community's residents had returned by September 1945, the majority of the township's residents were in Rovaniemi in the fall of 1946. The county government building was completed in 1947, the townhouse in 1948, and the new church in August 1950.

After the war, Alvar Aalto designed the new downtown Poronsarvi station plan, which was approved in 1947. The reconstruction of Rovaniemi took about eight years, and its completion was entrusted to KYMRO, the construction department of the Ministry of Transport and Public Works. The most important international aid organization during the reconstruction was UNRRA (United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration), which distributed e.g. foodstuffs, textiles, medicines and household items. Most of the aid came from the United States and Sweden. The Kiiruna neighborhood in Ounasvaara was built with funds received from Sweden.

 

A later time

The first residents who were evacuated on the Finnish side returned right at the end of November. The post office was opened in the railway station building on December 1, 1944. The temporary municipal office of Maalaiskunna was opened on November 25, the equivalent of the township in December, as well as the first shops. The first train from the south arrived on April 15, 1945. The majority of the rural community's residents had returned by September 1945, the majority of the township's residents were in Rovaniemi in the fall of 1946. The county government building was completed in 1947, the townhouse in 1948, and the new church in August 1950.

After the war, Alvar Aalto designed a new downtown Poronsarvi station plan[29][30], which was confirmed in 1947. The reconstruction of Rovaniemi took about eight years, and its completion was entrusted to KYMRO, the construction department of the Ministry of Public Works and Public Works. The most important international aid organization during the reconstruction was UNRRA (United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration), which distributed e.g. foodstuffs, textiles, medicines and household items. Most of the aid came from the United States and Sweden. The Kiiruna neighborhood in Ounasvaara was built with funds received from Sweden.

 

Economy

Settlement activities after the wars especially increased the intermediate population of Rovaniemi rural municipality. Settlement activity continued strongly until the mid-1960s. Based on the Land Use Act of 1958, almost 200 new farms were established in the rural municipality and additional land was given to 900 old farms. The population was also increased by the construction of hydropower plants: Petäjäskoski 1953–1957, Pirttikoski 1956–1959, Valajaskoski 1957–1960, Permantokoski 1960–1961 and Vanttauskoski 1967–1972. The number of rural construction workers increased tenfold during the 1960s.

In the 1960s, the complete transformation of agricultural policy to limit agricultural production favoring the establishment of new farms and the mechanization of forest work caused a great migration, a strong migration from the countryside to the cities of Southern Finland and to Sweden. The emigration loss of Rovaniemi rural municipality from 1965 to 1975 was 4,300 people. At the same time, service activities in the city expanded in terms of state district administration, school work, social work and health care. In 1970, an anti-aircraft battery from Kokkola was transferred to the rural municipality, and in 1973, an air base from Luonetjärvi to Häme, whose name was changed to Lapland air base. The city's migration gain from 1965 to 1975 was 2,500 people.

Uitto, which employed the residents of Rovaniemi, lived its heyday at the turn of the 1950s and 1960s, when the forest industry in the north needed a lot of raw material and the logging operations in Loka and Porttipahta increased the amount of wood. The last swim took place in 1991.

 

Culture

Rovaniemi's cultural life has been lively in the post-war period, compared to the size of the town, due to its position as a provincial center. In 1949, a theater run by a support association was founded, which operated in the old station restaurant until the completion of the Lappia house in 1976. In 1962, the institution became a professional theater supported by the state and the city, and in 1978, a permanent regional theater.

At the end of the 1940s, a music college was established in connection with the Rovaniemi free college, which initially operated as a support association; however, after the end of state aid, the college drifted into a crisis in the late 1960s, and the city of Rovaniemi founded the municipal Lapland Music College in 1969. The operation has since expanded so that the college has branches in Sodankylä, Pello, Ranua and Posio. The music school has operated in the Lappia building since 1972. In 1972, the Rovaniemi orchestra was founded, where teachers and students of the music school and members of the Garrison Band played. In 1973, the municipal string quartet started, in the mid-1970s, the city established the position of a conductor, and in 1982, the Rovaniemi city orchestra, with 13 players, started its activities. The city orchestra initially performed in the church, the Lappia house, the art museum and the Arktikum house, but today its home is the Kulttuuritalo Korundi.

Literary life has also been lively. Among the writers who started before the wars, A. E. Järvinen, K. M. Wallenius and Annikki Setälä-Sundquist continued into the 1950s and 60s. Prolific writers who started after the wars have been Annikki Kariniemi, Jorma Etto and Oiva Arvola, in whose books northern themes have played a significant role. Better known as a politician, Esko-Juhani Tennilä has also written collections of poems and short stories. In the 1990s, Jari Tervo brought Rovaniemi prominently into Finnish literature. Other contemporary writers from Rovaniemi include Rosa Liksom, Paula Havaste and Katja Kettu.

Rovaniemi Fine Art was detached from European fashion trends for a long time, and the works were portraits painted in a realistic style, Landscape paintings, etc. In the early 1960s, many Lappish artists adopted informalism, which as a spontaneous style was suitable for depicting Lapland's nature. In the same decade, other abstract trends also entered the city's visual art life. However, with the social upheaval of the 1960s and 70s, realism also reared its head again, and artists depicted migration to Sweden, the desolation of the countryside and unemployment. Significant visual artists who have influenced Rovaniemi are Andreas Alariesto, Matti Saanio, Elsa Montell-Saanio, Tapani Rantala, Toivo Turunen, Martti Isometta, Kari Tuisku, Tuula Mukka, Otto Suutari, Seppo Öfverström and Eero Kumpula.

Administration
Rovaniemi was a town until January 1, 1960, when it became one of the so-called "new towns" together with Hyvinkää, Salo, Kouvola, Seinäjoki and Riihimäki. The University of Lapland (University of Lapland since December 1990) was founded in 1979. In the same year, the Court of Appeal of Rovaniemi started operating.

Rovaniemi and Rovaniemi rural municipality merged on January 1, 2006. The name of the new municipality became the city of Rovaniemi and its coat of arms was the coat of arms of Rovaniemi rural municipality.

 

Nature attractions

Near the center, on the south side of Veitikanharju, there is a small, shallow and lush Harjulampi, one of the hundred best birding spots in Finland. 85 species of birds have been found there, of which 32 (purlin, red-legged plover, little gull, etc.) nest regularly and 17 occasionally. Lammi's bird tower is located at the intersection of Yliopistonkatu and Korvanranta, and there is a sign to get there from the intersection.

About 100 kilometers east of the city area, there is a waterfall called Auttiköngäs in the Auttijoki that flows into Kemijoki, which is surrounded by a 3.5-kilometer long nature trail with shelters. There are also historical floating dams and dams.

About 10 kilometers southwest of the urban area, on the slope of Sukulanraka in Rautiosaari, near the Valajaskoski power plant, there are 14 hiidenkirnu. They were first explored and cleared in 1966-67, but local residents have known about them for much longer. According to one folk tale, the kirtu were made into defensive positions by a bishop from Sweden who was coming with his entourage to visit Kemijokivarte. The biggest butterflies got their names from stories. The biggest one is about 15 meters deep and about 8 meters wide at its widest point, Paholainen liemikirnu. The second big one is Hiiden's hidden cave, 9 meters deep and 6 meters wide at its widest point, located on the rock above Paholainen liemikirnu. The third big one is Biispa Hemming's kirnu, 10 meters deep and 2.5 meters wide. There is guidance for Hiidenkirnu from the East side of Kemijoki.

In the Rovaniemi area, there are more than a thousand lakes of at least one hectare. Olkkajärvi, Norvajärvi, Vanttausjärvi, Sinetäjärvi, Perunkajärvi, Köyry and Iso-Kaarni are among the largest in terms of surface area.

In the southwest corner of Rovaniemi is the Pisavaara nature park, which partly extends into the territory of Tervola municipality. Access to the area requires a permit.

 

Cityscape

The area of the center of Rovaniemi in Korkalonniemi on the banks of the Kemijoki has already had urban characteristics since the beginning of the 19th century. In 1821, the vicar of Rovaniemi, Jacob Fellman, described that small area as follows: "Looking from a distance at the houses over the green meadows cut by the natural canals, they look like a small town or market town. It is called the city of Pihkapor. I don't know if the name comes from the wealth that existed in the village since old times, where there have been 70 springs, or from the fact that the houses there were clustered together, or from the fact that a market has been held there since the days of the Pirkka people, or, most likely, that it has been there for a long time made of resin and pitch."

Otherwise, Rovaniemi has been a rural landscape throughout almost until modern times. Before the arrival of the Germans in 1941, Rovaniemi was, with the exception of a few small areas in the center, a loosely built entity resembling a country church village. Its wooden buildings were Empire style peasant houses, or represented revival styles, art nouveau and 1920s classicism. In addition, the town had quite a lot of functionalist stone houses built in the 1930s. The site plan designed by architect Oiva Kallio, completed in 1933, had begun to create an urban look for the market; the site plan was based on large four-story blocks. The large-scale construction works of the Germans compacted the cityscape, and after they left, the compaction of the city continued, even though they destroyed most of the buildings and structures when they retreated. Today, Rovaniemi's cityscape mostly resembles an ordinary densely built Finnish city. In addition to the architecture of some key public buildings, the special quality of Rovaniemi is reminded by the rivers and the surrounding gentle boreal landscape, as well as the unique natural light, ice and snow of the north, which live with the seasons.

The Rovaniemi urban area is located at the junction of the Kemi and Ounasjoki. It is bounded by three high-rising dangers: Korkalovaara in the west, Ounasvaara behind Kemijoki in the east, and Syväsenvaara in the north behind the confluence of the rivers. In addition, Pöyliövaara is located south of the city area along the Kemijoki, and behind Korkalovaara is Vennivaara.

Three bridges lead across the Kemijoki in the urban area. The southernmost of them is the Ounaskoski railway and road bridge. The bridge was completed in 1934, and when retreating in 1944, the German troops destroyed it. However, it was rebuilt after the war. To the north of this is another bridge, Jätkänkynttilä, leading from the central area to the Ounasvaara side. It was completed in 1989. The third bridge leading over Kemijoki is the Suutarinkorva bridges leading from Ounasvaara to Saarenkylä, which are located in Kemijoki before it joins Ounasjoki. There is a railway bridge and a newer road bridge next to each other. The fourth bridge crosses the Ounasjoki at the point where it joins the Kemijoki, and connects the downtown area to Saarenkylä. It was completed in 1966. A little outside the city area is the Saarenputaa bridge (built in 1925, Kuusamontie).

 

Public buildings

The most significant concentration of public buildings in Rovaniemi is located in the area bounded by Hallituskatu, Kemijoki, Jorma Eto tie and Erottaja. The Lappia building (Jorma Eto tie 8 A), completed in 1976 and designed by architect Alvar Aalto, houses the music school, the city theater and Yleisradio's Lapland regional office. The Lappia house also hosts concerts and other public events. Aalto has also designed the adjacent Rovaniemi city library, completed in 1965 (Jorma Eto tie 6), which also serves as the provincial library of Lapland. The collections of the library's Lapland section contain material about Lapland, the Northern Cape, the Barents region and the Arctic regions. The department houses the Finnish Sami special library and the Finnish central collection of Greenlandic literature. Changing art exhibitions are organized in the library's Lapponica hall. The third building in the area is the town hall (Hallituskatu 7), completed in 1988, where the town council holds its meetings; it was designed by Alvar Aalto's architectural office. In addition, the center houses the police department (Hallituskatu 1 A) and the office building. Between Valtakatu and Ounaskoski, there is a building complex completed in 1947–1948, which includes an office building, three three-story residential buildings, and a two-story terraced house, which used to be the official residence of the lord and representative offices. The swimming association's house is also located in the area.

Kulttuuritalo Korundi (Lapinkävijäntie 4) was renovated from an old post car depot and opened in 2011. Korundi is a type of stone found especially in Lapland. However, a part of the building has served as an art museum since October 1986; the conversion of the premises from a post office depot to an art museum was designed by architect Juhani Pallasmaa. Kulttuuritalo is located next to highway 4, which cuts through the city center. There are facilities for the Lapland Chamber Orchestra and the Rovaniemi Art Museum.

The Arktikum house opened in 1992 (Pohjoisranta 4) is located on the shore of Ounasjoki, where the University of Lapland's Arctic Center, which popularizes northern science and research, and the Lapland Provincial Museum operate. Arktikum also has a library open to everyone. Next to the building is the science center Pilke, whose special area is northern forestry. In Pöykkölä, about 3.5 kilometers southeast of the center, there is the Lapland Forest Museum (Metsämuseontie 7) and the Rovaniemi Homeland Museum (Pöykköläntie 4). The Forest Museum describes the era of the great Savots in Lapland from the 1870s to the 1960s and 1970s; in the museum area there are savotte cabins, forest tools, floating equipment and forest machines from different parts of Lapland. The main building of the Kotiseutu museum, the shed and two sheds are from the 19th century and once belonged to the Pöykkölä estate, and 13 log buildings from the Rovaniemi area have also been moved to the museum area. The museum depicts a hundred-year-old wealthy peasant house and its buildings.

Many of Rovaniemi's significant public buildings are designed by Ferdinand Salokangka, personal and original, and completed during the reconstruction. These include, for example, a market building that is now a hotel (built in 1949, Valtakatu 18), a fire station (1949, Koskikatu 61), Ounaskoski secondary school (also known as a civic school, 1954, Maakuntakatu 3-5, will be demolished in 2022), a central school (1954, Pohjolankatu 23 ), teachers' residence (1954, Rovakatu 4), Rantavitika school's teachers' residence (1950, Eteläranta 2) and the former Vocational School and its dormitory (1961, Korvanranta 50).

The bus station (constructed in 1959, Lapinkävijäntie 2) is an architecturally significant traffic junction, designed by architects Kaarlo Leppänen, Niilo Pulkka and Pekka Rajala (architecture Aili and Niilo Pulkka). Its architectural artistic main idea is the shape of a fell in the roof structures and the entrance canopy, which describes the city's identity; the same theme was later applied by Alvar Aalto in the Lappia house. The station building and station yard were realized as a result of an architectural competition, and the corresponding model of a real estate company that gathers passenger services and the goal of architectural quality were later followed in the Sodankylä and Kemijärvi bus stations designed by the same architect office.

The Muurola railway station, on the other hand, represented well the post-war railway construction in the north. The unified whole of the station was formed by the station building and two residential buildings with outbuildings. The station building was destroyed in a fire in December 2014.

 

Rovaniemi church

Rovaniemi Church, designed by architect Bertel Liljequist, was completed in 1950. It is located on the south side of the town hall, on the other side of the railway line. The predecessor of the current church was burned in the Lapland war on October 16, 1944. The church's red neon lighted cross aroused wonder and discussion long after the church was completed. Today, the cross is illuminated with red LED lights.

 

Demolished and preserved historical buildings

Most of the houses in the Rovaniemi urban area were destroyed when the German troops retreated in October 1944. However, some significant buildings remained:

the former station building (Poromiehentie 1) was completed in 1909. After the completion of the new Kemijärvi line in 1934, the old station became a railway workers' apartment; in 1935, a second station building was completed in Rovaniemi for the Kemijärvi line, approximately at the current city library, but it was destroyed in 1944. After the war, the building has functioned as a post office, a temporary railway station, a women's workshop, the Lapland Museum and the Rovaniemi Art School. Nowadays the building is empty.
The station master's house (Poromiehentie 6) was once located next to the railway yard (today, the former railway yard is occupied by highway 4, which has been dug into the ground). Today, a daycare center operates in the building.
Alaruokanen's house (Valtakatu 8) represents typical 19th-century Peräpohja architecture. Originally, the red-mud house, standing on stone blocks and with a log frame, was built by Aapo Frans Ruokanen in the 1860s as his family's residence. Later, e.g. the stone blocks of the foundation have been partially replaced with concrete and three porches have been built into the house. In addition to the farm, it has also operated, e.g. as a military drill, as a recruiting station and during the Second World War as a German officer's club and command post. Nowadays, it can be rented by the townspeople for their parties.
The post car depot (Lapinkävijäntie 4) was built in 1931–1933. As a brick structure, it is a rarity in the architecture of old Rovaniemi. After the war, the depot was expanded and apartments were also built for the depot workers who lost their homes. Bricks collected from the ruins of the city were used as building material. After the postal depot ceased operations, the building was renovated to accommodate the Rovaniemi Art Museum, which opened in 1986. The building changed to Kulttuuritalo Korundi in 2011.
Marttiini's old factory (Vartiokatu 32) was built in 1940. It was partially destroyed during the wars, but was repaired after them. It is the only old industrial building in Rovaniemi that was spared from the destruction of the war. Today, the building has office spaces, residential apartments, Marttiini's factory store, and a medical center.
Tyttojen talo (Kansankatu 9) is a wooden house from the beginning of the 20th century. The house once served as a residence for the teachers of the nearby Kivikoulu, which was destroyed in the Lapland war. Today, it functions as a space for gender-sensitive youth work, which, except for open days, is only accessible to girls.
Raumankulma (Ainonkatu 3) was completed just before the wars as the building of Ville Rauma's car shop. Today, there are shops and restaurants in the building.
The building of Aho's car dealership (Koskikatu 27) is still in place. Kukkola Yhtiöt OY currently operates in Ahon Auto's premises.
Rautatieläinten talo (Poromiehentie 7) is also known as the railway master's house, and it was completed in 1910. Today, the house houses an interior decoration shop, and it is surrounded by the Ratamasterin park.
The cooperative bank building (Koskikatu 7) was built in 1936 as the building of Pohjola Osake-Pankki. It burned from the inside in the destruction of Rovaniemi, but the walls remained standing. There are business premises in the building, where e.g. bank and real estate agent.
The steel stone house (Valtakatu 33) was built in 1933. Its walls survived the war. The protected building will remain part of the future "ten block".
The cooperative store (Valtakatu 22) was built in 1933. It remained standing in the destruction of Rovaniemi, destroyed from the inside. Sokos worked in the building until 1993, after which there have been e.g. restaurants.
Kauppayhtiö's house (Valtakatu 24), the stone building of Rovaniemi Kauppayhtiö Oy was completed in 1920 as a commercial building. It partially burned down, but was rebuilt one floor higher than the original.
The Uittoyhdisten house (Koskenranta 1) is located looking north from the Ounaskoski bridge, behind the adjacent Niskanen house. It was designed by Arkitehtoimisto Lappi – Seppälä – Martas, and it was completed in 1937. The building is a gray two-story stone house and is located in the district of the county government, which also has a number of office and residential buildings built in the late 1940s. Today, the building houses the Rovaniemi office of the Finnish Safety and Chemicals Agency (Tukes).
The county hospital (Sairaalakatu 1) was built in 1937 next to the old hospital. The old hospital was destroyed in the winter war bombings on January 31, 1940. The county hospital was also damaged in the war, but was repaired and today functions as part of Sairaalakatu health center.
Nopanen's house (Jyrhämänkuja 5) was the residence of Väinö Nopanen, who ran a goldsmith and watchmaker's shop.
The Children's Hospital (Lähteentie 16) was built at the beginning of the 20th century. It was damaged in the war, but was repaired and served its original purpose for a long time. Today, the Rovaniemi Steiner school is located in the building.
There are some preserved buildings from the period before the Second World War in the Sahanperä district.
The Communicable Disease Hospital (Katajaranta 2) was built in the 19th century. The building has received a demolition sentence.
Mylläri's house (Kiviniemenkatu 24) on Katajaranna dates back to the 19th century, and is still owned and inhabited by the family. The house with its courtyard is classified as a significant cultural environment in the provincial plan. The yard circle is characteristic of Perepohja style, bordered by buildings on three sides. On its two sides are the former main building built at the end of the 18th century (the oldest preserved building in the city area) and the current main building (1820). The courtyard area also includes a courtyard building built in 1939. The construction group is located right next to the Kemijoki shore break.
Herva's house (Lukkarinkatu 16) was built in 1939. It is a three-story log house and contained apartments for two families. More recently, one family lives in the house.
Kallio's house (Kivikatu 6) is a four-apartment house designed by architect Oiva Kallio, originally built in the early 1930s. In the 1980s, the house was renovated into a two-family house.
The district of Kiiruna on the southern slope of Ounasvaara was born because the Swedes donated 30 prefab wooden houses to the Rovaniemi township as a result of a citizen's collection during the interim peace. When the gift houses were completed in January 1941, plaques were attached to their walls that told the origin of the houses. Most of the gift houses burned down in the Lapland war along with the rest of Rovaniemi. Eight houses were saved from destruction on Kiirunankatu and one house on Välikatu. However, the nature of the area did not change after the war, as new houses were built on the former stone foundations. The area between Kiirunankatu and Laitakatu is currently protected by a plan.
Niemelä talo (Pappilantie 75 A) in Viirinkanga was built in the 19th century as the main building of the farm and represents the Perepohja style. Later, the house served as a German military hospital during the Continuation War, and as a public school until the 1950s. Today, the house is available for rent for accommodation and various occasions.
Huvilatie 18 is a wooden house in Viirinkanga, built in the 1920s and used all along by Mikko Heikinheimo and his family.
Pappliantie 56 was a wooden house in Viirinkanga, its inhabitants were the Hyyryläinen family. The house survived the war but burned down in autumn 2020.
Significant buildings and cultural environments have also been preserved outside the urban area.

Hirvaa railway station was built in the first decade of the 20th century. In addition to the stop building, the building base of the former stop includes a residential building with outbuildings. Birch groves lead from the stop to the nearby Hirva forest school.
Körkö's group of houses in Lapinsuvanno on the Kemijokivarre consists of three Pere-Pohjalian courtyards representing riverside settlements, one built after the war, and a large number of sheds and barns in an open agricultural landscape.
The village of Ruika is also representative. One of the oldest farms in Ruika is Ala-Ruikka, whose main building was built at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries.
Teljasuvano's floating base on the banks of Ounasjoki dates back to the 1920s. Close to the rocky beach, there is a pool for swimmers, a beach sauna, a toilet, a storage room, and a litter box. The environment is a modest reminder that Rovaniemi has been the "cradle of dude culture".
Marrasjärvi is an example of early villages built outside the main riverbanks and routes, whose building stock dates back to the period before the war in Lapland. The village's building base is mainly inherited from the 1770s, but there is also the Nätyng shed, built in 1735 and moved from elsewhere. Ollila farm was founded in the 1790s. The most unified building groups are Kenttälä, Kallio, Kaishannu, Rauhala and Niemelä, as well as the separate Ylitalo. Many of these form intact yard circles.
Located on the isthmus between Lake Olkkajärvi and Olkkalammi, the courtyards of Kenttäharju and Keskitalo or Kenttälä estates (founded in the 1850s) represent Perepohja peasant construction at its most typical. In addition to residential buildings, there are several farm-related buildings in Pihipiiri. Kenttäharju's main building is from around 1860, and Keskitalo's mansard-roofed main building is from the 1920s. In the Kentäkannas area, there is one of the largest field ruins in Northern Finland. In the vicinity of the central building, there is also a summer barn with a pyramidal roof, typical and necessary for northernmost Finland. The area has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and as a reminder of the fishing grounds built in the 17th century, there are remains of fish huts and their stoves. According to tradition, the area was once the home of the Forest Sámi people.

After the Second World War, Rovaniemi has also demolished buildings that survived the destruction of the war:
the station restaurant of the railway station (Hallituskatu 9), completed in 1935, was used by the Rovaniemi theater for a long time after the wars. The house was demolished in the 1980s. Today, there is a grass field and a number of flagpoles.
Along Valtakatu, Huhtala's house, Konttinen's house and two other houses remained on the south side of Alaruokanen's house (see above), and Ruokanen's house on the north side. Today, there are apartment buildings in place of the houses on the south side, and the Court of Appeal of Rovaniemi is located in the place of Ruokanen's house.
Valtonen's house, pharmacist Valtonen's detached house with a mansard roof, located at Rovakatu 26, was demolished in 1956 to make way for a building called Kauppakero, which is located on the site today.
Ainonkatu 4, located opposite Raumankulma, the house of Aino Poikela (from whom Ainonkatu gets its name) who owned the cinema Inaria (from which Ainonkatu got its name) was also spared from the destruction, but was later demolished and today there is an apartment building built in the 1960s.
The Heikkilä house and the Vuoristo house were residential buildings between today's Pekankatu and Ruokasenkatu, and they were the few residential buildings in the area that were spared destruction. Today, there are apartment buildings in their place.
Aho's houses, both white in color, were located at the intersection of Rovakatu and Koskikatu.
The Karjapohjola house (Koskikatu 25) was completed in 1939, and was demolished in 1986 to make way for the Revontulikeskus shopping center located on the site today.
Autti's kaljatehdas (Koskikatu 1) was located opposite the hotel Pohjanhov. It was founded by Kalle and Siina Autti, but in 1933 it became part of the Tornio Porter and Beer Factory, or Lapin Kulta. During the war, only the walls of the building remained standing, but Lapland's gold rebuilt the roof and the interior and continued making drinks into the 1970s. Today, the hotel Rantasipi is located on the site.
The Saastamoinen house, located on the northern edge of Vanhantori, was the main building of the merchant Robert Saastamoinen's group of houses, in addition to which the house's garage was also spared from the destruction of the war. The house was demolished in the 1960s. Today, there is an apartment building on the site.
On the western side of Vanhantori, the Handicraft School and Gråsten's house were spared from the destruction of the war (approximately at the current Korkalonkatu 37 and 39). The craft school ended up being used by schoolchildren who returned from evacuation in 1945. Today, apartment buildings built in the 1970s and 1980s are located in their place.
Close to Lainaanranta, the house of shoe and clothing merchant Jussi Puhaka was preserved, as well as Eevi Ämmälä's house between ferry beach and saharanta, where municipal meetings were held at the turn of the 20th century.
The Rauhanyhdisten house is still located on the site of the Rauhanyhdisten house (Ruokasenkatu 3), but the current red brick apartment building was built in the 1960s.
A detached house with a mansard roof built in 1935 was located at Vartiokatu 13. It was demolished in the early 1980s, and an apartment building built in the 80s is located on the site.
Quite a lot of buildings from the pre-war era were preserved in Sahanperä. On Ounasjoenti, only a few houses at the beginning of the street were burned. Preserved houses were e.g. Ounasjoentie 11 and 13 (Kähkönen's house), where these are now apartment buildings; Heikkinen house group: Ounasjoentie 10-12 (currently Pilke museum and parking lot); Niininen's house (Ounasjoentie 9), now block of flats; Palmu house (Ounasjoentie 7), now block of flats; Tukkipojantie 17 (newer detached house on site).
Another of Kallio's houses (Kivikatu 8) was built of wood, designed by architect Oiva Kallio and completed in the late 1930s. Interesting details of the house were e.g. the round windows in the attic and the original floor plans of the apartments. The house was demolished in 1985.
The General's House, located in Viirinkanga, built by the Germans as a staff building during the war, fell into bad shape in the 1960s and was demolished in the 1970s because the city council deemed it too expensive to repair.

 

Significant private buildings built after the wars

Among the architects active after the Second World War, Alvar Aalto and Ferdinand Salokangas have had the most significant influence on Rovaniemi's building stock and streetscape.

Korkalonrinte's small and high-rise apartment complex - known by local residents as Tapiola - was designed by Alvar Aalto, built in the late 1950s and early 60s, and consists of two four-story apartment buildings (Sompiontie and Poroelontie) and three two-story townhouses (Sompiontie, Tanhuantie and Poroelontie). . The area has made it to the Finnish Museum Agency's list of nationally significant built cultural environments.
Maison Aho (Pohjolankatu 32) is a detached house designed by Alvar Aalto. The building was commissioned in 1964 by Aarne Aho, and it was completed the following year based on Aalto's sketches and the client's suggestions. The building has made it to the Finnish Museum Agency's list of nationally significant built cultural environments, as well
Aho's residential apartment buildings Koskikatu 18 (built 1959), the integrally connected Koskikatu 20 (built 1962) and Jaakonkatu 3 (built 1963) were designed by Alvar Aalto.
Inapolku 3, an apartment building designed by Ferdinand Salokangka.
Ferdinand Salokangka's residence and studio building (built 1953, Karhunkaatajantie 24).
The row houses on Evakkotie (Evakkotie 73) were designed by Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and were originally built for the personnel of the Finnish Defense Forces in the 1960s (completion year 1970). The compact area consisting of 12 terraced houses (126 apartments in total) is located on the southwest side of Korkalonrinte.
The Pirttikoski power plant complex consists of a concrete power plant (built in 1960), excavated rock cuttings, a housing area for workers built on the West Bank of Kemijoki in the 1950s (twelve townhouses, a total of 65 apartments) and a terraced house in Luusuanpirti, which is located on the west side of the power plant along the roads, designed by Kai Blomstedt and Birger Stenbäck.

Sculptures, works of art and monuments
A list of public works of art in Rovaniemi can be found on the website of the city of Rovaniemi. Near the Jätkänkynttilä in the center is the Jätkä statue, sculpted by Kalervo Kallio and completed in 1955, depicting a lumberjack peeling pine logs. On May Day, the guy gets a white cap on his head and the students sing May Day songs at the base of it. Next to the elementary school in the center, on Pohjolankatu, there is the Aseveliketju, a memorial to the Swedish and Norwegian volunteers of the winter war, designed by Bengt Lissegård and completed in 1964, which consists of a statue and a fountain; the statue, on the other hand, consists of four large chain links, which symbolize the countries of Scandinavia. The monument to the reconstruction of Lapland 1944–1955, known by the townspeople as Pulututka, is located on the slope next to the railway station; it was made by the sculptor Kari Huhtamo, and it was unveiled in 1981. In front of the town hall is Kain Tapper's sculpture Vuorten synty, which was completed in 1988. Alvar Aalto's Aurora Borealis sculpture on the wall of the apartment building at Koskikatu 18–20 shows the northern lights and jumping salmon, and is from 1962 .

There are three sculptures by professor Ensio Seppänen (1924–2008) from Kemläinen in Rovaniemi. One of them is the Jääkärilikuen monument completed in 1981 (Jääkäripuisto, opposite Lapinkävijäntie 31). The name of the sculpture is Katkenneet kahliete and it depicts Finland breaking away from Russian rule. The pale, upright stone in the center depicts independent Finland, a liberator that has broken the shackles of its former master, Russia. Other sculptures designed by Ensio Seppänen in Rovaniemi are the 1965 memorial to those who died in Sweden's evacuees erected in memory of the members of the Rovaniemi parish, which is located in Rovaniemi's second cemetery, and the beginning of life with milk erected by the Lapland County Agricultural Center, which was completed in 1984 and is located in Herva park.

Other than works of art are also monuments. Next to the railway station, along Ratakatu, there is an old steam locomotive as a monument to railway activity. There is a Folland Gnat fighter plane and two anti-aircraft guns as an air defense monument in Somerharju along Norvati.

In Norvajärvi, about 20 kilometers north of the center, there is a red granite chapel designed by the German architect Otto Kindt built in 1959–1963 on the initiative of a German veterans organization, the Deutsche Soldatenfriedhof, which serves as a memorial and cemetery for German soldiers who fell in northern Finland during the Second World War. In its vestibule there is Ursula Qerner's sculpture "Mother and Son", in the hall there are eight rows of limestone with the information of about 3,000 German soldiers buried in the basement below the hall. Norvajärvi also has a cemetery for the Norwegians who participated in the winter war as volunteers and died there.

 

Tourism

Rovaniemi is the official hometown of Santa Claus. Santa Claus spends time in Pajakylä every day of the year. It can be seen and heard in the city's streetscape, the Arctic Circle and Finland's third busiest airport in terms of passenger numbers. There are also events, safaris and places to visit such as Arktikum, Science Center Pilke, Joulupukin Pajakylä and Santa Park at the Arctic Circle. The vocalist and founder of the 2006 Eurovision winning band Lord Tomi ”Mr. Lordi" Putaansuu is from Rovaniemi. In December 2006, Lordi's Rocktaurant was opened in Rovaniemi. The restaurant was closed in the summer of 2011 and today a new restaurant is operating in its premises.

The Ounasvaara ski center is located near the city center, there have been recreational activities in the Ounasvaara area since 1927. Skiing has been practiced in Rovaniemi since 1943. Today, Rovaniemi is also easy to travel by public transport.