Eifel National Park (Nationalpark Eifel), Germany

Eifel National Park

 

Location: North Rhine-Westphalia Map

Area: 10,700 ha (26,400 acres)

 

Description of Eifel National Park

Eifel National Park is located in North Rhine-Westphalia in Western Germany. The nature reserve covers an area of ​​10,700 hectares (26,400 acres). Eifel National Park contains over 230 endangered species of animals and plants that are found here. Over 240 kilometers or 150 miles of hiking trails are open to the public. Additionally cyclists can enjoy 104 kilometers or 65 miles of biking trails. In winter this extensive web of roads is available for snowmobiles as well as cross country skiing. If you need to be accompanied by a ranger you will be provided on a site. Their service is completely free and no prior arrangement is required.

An especial caution should be practiced here. During the last months of World War II German troops places several Glasmine 43 anti personal mines around the forest. As the name suggests it outside shell is made of glass that makes it extremely difficult to detect if you know it is there. So use you common sense and don't ignore the signs that indicate presence of mine fields. Don't venture into wilderness off trail. It is difficult to say how many of these deadly mines might still be present at the site.

 

General

The technical goals of the IUCN apply to the Eifel National Park. Accordingly, at least 75 percent of the national park area will be left to nature without human use within 30 years of the park's founding. Framework goals, instruments and bodies are set out in the National Park Ordinance (NP-VO). The relatively young national park is located in the north of the Eifel between Nideggen in the north, Gemünd in the south and the Belgian border in the south-west. Since January 1, 2004, the state ordinance that lays the foundation for the park has been in force. The administration of the national park was thus transferred to the Eifel National Park Forestry Office based in Schleiden. Henning Walter was appointed head of the forestry office and thus the first head of the national park administration.

The area is approximately 10,770 hectares, borders the Rurstausee in the northwest and includes the Urfttalsperre and the former Vogelsang military training area, but not the former NS Ordensburg Vogelsang. The area of the Vogelsang military training area on the Dreiborn plateau, which was formerly managed and used by the Belgian military, accounts for around 3,300 hectares of the total area and has only been open to the public since January 1, 2006.

The Eifel National Park protects the Hainsimsen beech forest, which has been shaped by the Atlantic climate, parts of which have been preserved in the North Eifel and originally covered most of the Eifel and large parts of Central Europe. Deciduous and coniferous forests, lakes, streams and open grassy areas stretch over 110 square kilometers. A large undivided forest area with a high proportion of beech forest is the Kermeter, within which lies the natural forest cell Schäferheld and Wiegelskammer. This forest area is accessible on hiking trails, some of which are barrier-free.

 

Getting there

Bus and train
The Heimbach National Park can be reached via Düren (connection from Aachen and Cologne) with the regional train "RB 21" / Rurtalbahn.

From Aachen
Bus line "SB 63" (destination Simmerath or Vogelsang) from Aachen main station to Einruhr, Vogelsang and Gemünd (if necessary, change in Simmerath to bus line 63 in the direction of Vogelsang). Between May and October you can take bicycles with you in a trailer on Sundays.

from Cologne
Regional express "RE 22" from Cologne main station (departure there at xx: 9 pm) to Kall, then bus line "SB 82" to Gemünd and Vogelsang.

by car
A4 to AS Düren (7), then follow signs first in the direction of Düren and then in the direction of Nideggen (via Niederau & Kreuzau) (via country road also further to Heimbach)

From Aachen
B258 to behind Roetgen, then B399 to Lammersdorf, then B266 to Einruhr, Vogelsang or Gemünd.

from Cologne
either A1 to AS Wißkirchen (111), then B266 to Gemünd, Vogelsang or Einruhr
or B265 to Gemünd.

 

Fees

The area is freely accessible.
Large parts of the former military training area may not be entered for safety reasons (old ammunition).

 

Around the park

Few state and federal roads cross the national park. Bus stops that are well frequented and larger parking lots are mostly outside and on the edge. In the national park itself, the best way to move around is on foot. The bicycle can also be an alternative.

 

Public transport

The quality of public transport within and on the edge of the national park is very different. The north in the Düren district is easily accessible by the Rurtalbahn. Heimbach train station and Zerkall stop are on the edge of the national park, each have an information point and are served every hour. From Heimbach, the Mäxchen bus shoots the Mariawald monastery and the Kermeter during the season.

In the south of the national park in the Euskirchen district, the town of Kall is well connected by train. Kall station buses run every hour to Gemünd, Morsbach and the Eifel National Park Center.

The national park locations in the Aachen city region are difficult to reach by public transport. It is still easy to get to Monschau and Simmerath by bus from Aachen, beyond that the offer is very thin, especially on weekends. Places like Einruhr, Rurberg and Erkensruhr are only connected via individual trips on Saturdays and Sundays. Here you have to plan well how to get back.

 

Rates

Part of the national park is part of the Rhein-Sieg transport association (Euskirchen district) and the other part of the Aachen transport association (Aachen city region and Düren district). For journeys within the AVV or VRS area, the ticket offers of the respective transport association apply. In principle, the VRS tariff applies to journeys beyond the network. In the entire national park and beyond, for example, the Euregioticket is valid for 19 € for one day with which a second adult and up to three children can be taken on weekends and public holidays. Many overnight accommodations give their guests the guest card, with which they can use public transport free of charge.

 

Attractions

The Rurtalsee reservoir, usually called Rursee, is located in the Eifel in North Rhine-Westphalia. The Rur flows into the Meuse in Roermond (Netherlands) and should not be confused with the Ruhr in the Ruhr area.
Urftsee
Mariawald Abbey, also Mariawald Monastery or Trappist Convent Mariawald is a monastery near Heimbach / Eifel. This article also describes the area around the monastery.
Vogelsang

 

Activities

Hiking, for example on the Wilderness Trail, which leads 85 km from Monschau to Hürtgenwald.
Cycle touring only on approved cycle paths; not all of these paths are unreservedly recommended (possibly only for MTB). There are also cycle paths on the edge of and outside the national park.

 

Practical hints

There are various contact points around the national park that provide visitors with information. The most important is the National Park Center.

1 National Park Center Eifel. Tel.: +49 (0)2444 91 57 40, email: info@nationalparkzentrum-eifel.de

National Park Gates
The national park gates are information houses that contain tourist information and various exhibitions on topics related to the Eifel National Park. They have uniform opening times:

1 April to 31 October from 09:00 - 13:00 and 13:30 - 17:00

November 1 - March 31 from 10:00 - 13:00 and 13:30 - 16:00

2 Rurberg National Park Gate. Tel.: +49 (0)2473 937 70 Exhibition: "Lifelines of Nature" Open: daily 9:00 - 13:00, 13:30 - 17:00 (1 Apr - 31 Oct), 10:00 00-13:00, 13:30-16:00 (1 Nov-31 Mar).
3 Gemünd National Park Gate. Exhibition: "Gnarled oaks, colorful woodpeckers and exciting forest stories"
4 Heimbach National Park Gate. Exhibition: "Forest Secrets"
5 National Park Gate Höfen. Exhibition: "Daffodil Rush and Forest Change" The daffodil meadows are located in the Perlenbachtal near Monschau-Höfen. The flowering time is around the beginning of May.
6 Nideggen National Park Gate Exhibition: “Nature’s Treasure Chamber”

National Park Info Points
National Park information points are smaller contact points than the National Park gates without an exhibition, but also offer a wide range of information. The opening hours are different.

7 Bad Münstereifel national park information point. Open: Monday to Friday: 10am to 2:30pm.
8 Einruhr National Park Info Point. Open: April to October: 09:00 - 13:00 and 13:30 - 17:00 November to March: 10:00 - 13:00 and 13:30 - 16:00.
9 Schwammenauel National Park information point (Landal-Resort Eifeler Tor).
10 Hellenthal National Park Info Point (Town Hall). Open: April to November: Monday to Friday 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 1:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. May to October: Monday to Friday 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 1:30 p.m 5:00 p.m. All Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays: tour 10:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.
11 Zerkall National Park Info Point. Open: High season (beginning of the Easter holidays to October): Wednesday to Sunday: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday and Tuesday: 1:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. NRW school holidays: daily 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. November to the beginning of the Easter holidays): Sunday: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
12 National Park Info Point Kall (railway station). Open: Monday to Friday: 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
13 National Park information point in Kommern (“Forest house” in the open-air museum). Open: April 1 - October 31: 9am - 7pm November 1 - March 31: 10am - 5pm.
14 Marmagen National Park information point (Eifelhöhenklinik). Open: Monday to Friday: 06:30 to 20:00 Saturday: 08:00 to 13:00 and 13:30 to 17:00 Sunday and public holidays: 09:30 to 13:00 and 13:30 to 6:30 p.m.
15 Mechernich National Park Info Point (Mechernich Mining Museum). Open: Tuesday to Saturday: 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
16 Monschau National Park information point. Open: daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on 24./31. December from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
17 National Park information point in Nettersheim. Open: Monday to Friday: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, Sunday and public holidays: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
18 Roetgen National Park information point. Open: Summer time (01/04 to 31/10) 10:00 a.m. – 18:00 p.m. Winter time (01/11 to 31/03) 10:00 a.m. – 16:00 p.m.
19 Schleiden National Park Info Point. Open: Tuesday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday: 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
20 National Park information point Schmidt (parish church St. Hubertus). Open: April to October: 9am to 8pm November to March: 9am to 6pm.

 

General

The technical goals of the IUCN apply to the Eifel National Park. Accordingly, at least 75 percent of the national park area will be left to nature without human use within 30 years of the park's founding. Framework goals, instruments and bodies are set out in the National Park Ordinance (NP-VO). The relatively young national park is located in the north of the Eifel between Nideggen in the north, Gemünd in the south and the Belgian border in the south-west. Since January 1, 2004, the state ordinance that lays the foundation for the park has been in force. The administration of the national park was thus transferred to the Eifel National Park Forestry Office based in Schleiden. Henning Walter was appointed head of the forestry office and thus the first head of the national park administration.

The area is approximately 10,770 hectares, borders the Rurstausee in the northwest and includes the Urfttalsperre and the former Vogelsang military training area, but not the former NS Ordensburg Vogelsang. The area of the Vogelsang military training area on the Dreiborn plateau, which was formerly managed and used by the Belgian military, accounts for around 3,300 hectares of the total area and has only been open to the public since January 1, 2006.

The Eifel National Park protects the Hainsimsen beech forest, which has been shaped by the Atlantic climate, parts of which have been preserved in the North Eifel and originally covered most of the Eifel and large parts of Central Europe. Deciduous and coniferous forests, lakes, streams and open grassy areas stretch over 110 square kilometers. A large undivided forest area with a high proportion of beech forest is the Kermeter, within which lies the natural forest cell Schäferheld and Wiegelskammer. This forest area is accessible on hiking trails, some of which are barrier-free.

 

Forest in the national park

Large areas in the Eifel were still forest-free at the beginning of the 19th century due to former uses of the forest, in particular the extraction of charcoal. It was not until the Prussians in the 19th century that large parts of the Eifel were planted with spruce. This tree species was further promoted after the Second World War. Spruces grow faster than many deciduous tree species and thus enable faster reforestation. Since nature is largely left to its own devices after being declared a national park, many conifers can fall victim to the bark beetle. The Kermeter mountain range, which is bounded by the Rurtalsperre in the north and west and by the Urfttalsperre in the south, is particularly affected because the relatively low-precipitation climate there is pleasant for the bark beetle. This is a natural process, but one that is supervised. A spread to coniferous forest areas outside the national park should be prevented in good time.

When it was designated in 2004, the forest covered around 8,190 hectares or 75% of the national park area. Before the designation, the state of North Rhine-Westphalia acquired 1,300 hectares of private forest area in 2003, so that no private forest areas were available when the national park was designated. In 2004, the forest consisted of 40% spruce, 22% oak, 16% beech, 9% pine, 6% other forest, 4% other deciduous forest and 3% Douglas fir. With the designation, 4,122 ha or 38% of the area were placed under process protection. Process protection means that all use has been stopped to allow the forest to develop undisturbed. Only natural regeneration of non-native tree species such as spruce was removed, with the biomass or trees remaining on the areas. By 2034 at the latest, another 4,030 ha or 37% of the forest area should be left for process protection. After 2034, a further 1,310 hectares of forest are to be left for process protection. The forest will eventually occupy 9,462 ha or 87% of the area of the park. From 2004 to 2014, 250 ha of spruces were removed across the board. 156 ha of spruce forest were removed over 26 km along streams. Furthermore, spruce trees were removed from waterlogged soils. The resulting open spaces were left to natural reforestation. Emerging spruce natural regeneration was removed again. Between 2004 and 2019, 835 ha of spruce forests were planted with locally sourced beech trees in a buffer strip at the borders of the park. The beech thrives well in the shade and can also grow in spruce forests. However, it will still be a few decades before the beech is again the dominant tree species in these forest areas. Since 2004, 274 ha of forest with Douglas fir and the partially added tree species of fir and hemlock have also been removed or ringed in some areas in order to kill the trees. In some cases, the Douglas fir remained on the areas as lying dead wood or, in the case of ringed trees, as standing dead wood. Alien white pine and red oak present in the area were also ringed. The natural regeneration of non-European tree species, which can endanger native species, is actively combated. When hurricane Kyrill on 18./19. January 2007 63 hectares of spruce forest were felled. 30 ha of these spruce areas were left untreated to develop naturally. 700 hectares of spruce forest were left to process protection and dynamic development. No measures were taken in the Scots pine stands of 720 ha, since the natural regeneration of the Scots pine is not a relevant competitor to native tree species.

 

Biodiversity in the national park

Currently 10,549 species have been identified in the Eifel National Park. 2,405 of these species have an endangered status according to the Red Lists of North Rhine-Westphalia and Germany. With a share of 50%, the 1,336 insect species are by far the most species-rich group. Among the insects, 2,098 species of beetles were found and 1,379 species of butterflies were found, including 1,272 species of moths. Other important groups of insects are Diptera with 499 species, Hymenoptera with 435 species, Leafhoppers with 275 species, Bugs with 268 species and Caddis flies with 118 species. 1,949 species of fungi have been identified. Spiders are represented by 310 species and vertebrates by 251 species. 100 species of snails and mussels were found. Ferns and flowering plants have 900 species. There are also 768 species of algae (including cyanobacteria), 368 species of moss, 358 species of lichen and 371 other species. The development of biodiversity is documented by monitoring.

For the years 2015 to 2017, 1121 or 1276 red deer were calculated for the national park in two extrapolations, with a fluctuation range of ±84 animals or ±83 animals.

 

Star Park, Star Region

In February 2014, the national park received provisional recognition as a "star park" from the International Dark Sky Association because it still gets really dark here at night and you can see the stars clearly. It was also important to protect nature from the stresses of artificial light, especially its particularly harmful blue component. On April 5, 2019, the national park was finally designated as the "International Star Park Eifel National Park". The next higher goal that the national park region has set itself is recognition as a star region. The condition for this is that suitable measures against wasting light and improper use are carried out within a radius of 15 km around the national park. The awareness of the population has already started, so that this title is definitely achievable.

 

Path system

Around 240 kilometers of hiking trails are open to visitors in the Eifel National Park. Cyclists are allowed to use 104 kilometers and riders 65 kilometers. If there is enough snow, there are also two cross-country trails in the south of the national park, each five kilometers long. All paths are marked with wooden signs and entered in the current hiking map of the Eifelverein.

A number of hiking trails are signposted throughout the national park. The circular hiking trails "Theme Tours" and the four-day "Wilderness Trail" are specially designed for the protected area and supported by appropriate literature.

In 2016, the North Eifel Nature Park set up trekking sites in the Eifel National Park region with space for up to two tents (for a fee). These places can only be reached on foot. The nature camp "Nordstern" is located in the area of the former NS "Ordensburg" Vogelsang outside the national park area. In the meantime, further trekking sites have been set up, currently (2021) there are a total of 18.

 

The Wilderness Trail

In four demanding daily stages, visitors can cross the entire national park with its different landscapes. The 85-kilometer wilderness trail is designed in such a way that it winds its way from Monschau-Höfen in the south-west to Hürtgenwald-Zerkall at the northernmost tip of the protected area. In some sections, fallen trees, old giant trees and regrowing saplings give a first impression of how it should look almost everywhere in a few decades.

National Park Center with the adventure exhibition "Wildnis(t)räume"
In the middle of the Eifel National Park - with a panoramic view of the Urftsee - you will find the Eifel National Park Center with the adventure exhibition "Wilderness(t)rooms" at the International Platz Vogelsang. The barrier-free and multilingual exhibition offers a variety of sensory experiences and invites you to learn more about the national park idea and the dynamics of nature. Special events, guided tours with national park rangers and bookable programs complete the offer. away. The "Wildnis(t)räume" exhibition is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve until 2 p.m.).

 

National Park Gates

To welcome visitors and to provide information in the tourist service area, the respective towns and communities have set up five national park gates together with the Eifel National Park Administration. With free admission, they are open daily from April to October from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. - from November to March from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. In addition to the basic information, each information center offers a different main topic in the form of a small national park exhibition.

In the Rurberg National Park Gate on the Eiserbachdamm, the motto is Lifelines of Nature, and water is the central theme of the permanent exhibition there. In Gemünd, visitors experience exciting forest stories in the national park gate in the spa gardens. In Heimbach, in the old station building, forest secrets are the focus of a walk-in radio play. In the National Park Gate in Höfen, the daffodil meadows are a main theme. The largest occurrence of the yellow wild daffodil in Germany begins at the edge of the "Federal Gold Village". Nideggen is about people and nature, including the logistics of nature. The national park gates in Höfen and Nideggen in particular are also suitable for people with disabilities thanks to guidance systems, audio equipment that can be borrowed, etc. Barrier-free sanitary facilities are available in all five gates.

 

Guides

The national park offers regular, free guided tours with a trained ranger. Visitors can choose between at least eight offers per week with different requirements. Registration is not required. The rangers not only impart instructive information along the way, they also share nice anecdotes and their own experiences. All circular hikes are also suitable for blind and visually impaired people with an accompanying person and for families with children. Every fourth Saturday of the month, the rangers offer special tours that are thematically adapted to the season.

In addition to these ranger tours, groups can book trained forest guides for individual tours. Hikes in different languages, accompanied by sign language, accompanied boat trips, carriage rides and more are all possible. The monthly family days, which also take place on Tuesdays and Thursdays during the school holidays in North Rhine-Westphalia, are specially designed for children and parents. Information about these offers and the bookable forest guides for individual groups is available from the Eifel National Park Forestry Office.

 

Danger from military legacy

Large parts of the former military training area and thus the national park cannot be opened to the public without restrictions, as a large part of the former Vogelsang military training area is likely to be contaminated with ammunition residues and contaminated sites and a comprehensive and deep-acting clearance would be too costly. The problem is the contaminated sites, which not only result from the post-war use as a shooting range and general camp operations, but also to a large extent from ammunition residues from the shelling in World War II (dud). During the Second World War, glass mines were laid near the dam wall of the Urfttalsperre, which cannot be cleared even today. Known areas that may still contain remains of ammunition are cordoned off with fences; as in the entire national park, entering off the official paths is strictly forbidden.

 

Criticism of the concept

The Eifel National Park has been criticized by nature conservationists for years. In February 2008, Volker Hoffmann, the spiritual father of the national park, resigned as chairman of the association for the promotion of the national park and also resigned from his office as the BUND representative in the national park committees. He protested u. a. against excessive concessions to commerce and tourism. He also complained about the logging by the national park forestry office. Two years later, Wilhelm Bode sharply attacked the national park forestry office in his citizen forest concept written for the German Nature Conservation Union. He criticized clear-cutting that would be carried out under the pretext of silvicultural conversion. In December 2013, Holger Sticht, NRW state chairman of the BUND, drew a "sobering balance sheet" on the tenth anniversary of the national park: The "birth defect" is that the national park office is not a specialist authority, but a forestry office that belongs to the NRW state forest and wood company. "The buck was turned into a gardener." In January 2014, the ARD magazine Plusminus reported on "clear cutting in the nature reserve" and suspected a connection between long-term timber supply contracts that the state of North Rhine-Westphalia had entered into after hurricane Kyrill False allegation turned out.

 

Protected areas in the national park

In the area of today's national park there were already some nature reserves. According to information from the national park administration, the nature reserves continue to exist as legally binding areas. The National Park with its regulations of the National Park Ordinance is superimposed. In terms of content, nature reserve regulations such as protective purposes, goals and bids/bans do not contradict the determinations of the national park.

 

Wolf area Eifel - Hohes Venn

Since July 2019, the Eifel around Monschau has been the third region in North Rhine-Westphalia where a wolf has settled. The wolf area "Eifel/Hohes Venn" designated by the state's Ministry of the Environment is 505 square kilometers in size and is located in the Monschau, Hellenthal, Schleiden, Simmerath and Roetgen areas. Currently (2021) 5 wolves live in the High Fens.