Location: Oughterard Map
Constructed: 16th century by O'Flahertys
Aughnanure Castle, located near Oughterard in County Galway, Ireland, is a well-preserved 16th-century tower house situated on a rocky outcrop along the Drimneen River, close to Lough Corrib in the heart of Connemara. Built around 1500 by the O’Flaherty clan, a powerful Gaelic family, it served as their primary stronghold in Iar-Connacht (West Connacht) for over 300 years. Renowned for its rare double bawn and strategic riverside position, Aughnanure is a striking example of Gaelic Irish architecture and a symbol of resistance against Anglo-Norman and English encroachment. Managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW) as a National Monument since 1952, the castle is a popular heritage site, offering visitors a glimpse into medieval Connemara’s turbulent history.
Origins and O’Flaherty Dominance (13th–16th Centuries)
Aughnanure
Castle’s history is inseparable from the O’Flaherty clan, one of
Connacht’s most formidable Gaelic families, whose motto, Fortuna Favet
Fortibus (“Fortune favors the strong”), encapsulated their warrior
ethos. The O’Flahertys controlled Iar-Connacht, a region spanning from
Lough Corrib to the Atlantic, using its waterways for trade, piracy, and
defense. Their power was rooted in maritime prowess and strategic
strongholds, with Aughnanure becoming their chief seat by around 1500.
The castle’s name, Achadh na nIubhar (“field of the yews” in Irish),
derives from a once-extensive yew forest that stretched toward Galway,
symbolized by an ancient yew tree near the entrance, possibly planted in
the 19th century to honor the name. The site, on a limestone outcrop
virtually surrounded by the Drimneen River, was a natural fortress,
described as a “rocky island” ideal for defense. Its proximity to Lough
Corrib, Ireland’s second-largest lake, facilitated supply lines and
raids, reinforcing the O’Flahertys’ dominance.
In the 13th
century, the Anglo-Norman de Burgo (Burke) family briefly seized
O’Flaherty lands west of Lough Corrib in 1256, possibly building an
earlier fortification at Aughnanure. The O’Flahertys reclaimed their
territory by the late 13th century, consolidating power through
intermarriage and alliances. Their reputation as the “ferocious
O’Flahertys” intimidated Galway’s Anglo-Norman citizens, who inscribed a
city gate with the plea, “From the ferocious O’Flahertys, oh Lord
deliver us,” reflecting frequent raids.
A pivotal moment came in
1546 when Donal an Chogaidh (“of the Wars”) O’Flaherty married Grace
O’Malley (Granuaile), the Pirate Queen of Mayo, whose motto, Terra
Marique Potens (“Powerful by land and sea”), complemented O’Flaherty
strength. This alliance bolstered their maritime influence, with
Aughnanure serving as a base for regional control.
English
Conquest and Internal Betrayal (16th–17th Centuries)
The 16th century
brought increasing English pressure. In 1537, Lord Grey, Henry VIII’s
Lord Deputy, visited Galway to enforce English authority, receiving
nominal submissions from O’Flaherty chieftains, though they offered no
hostages, signaling resistance. By the 1560s, the Tudor policy of
“surrender and regrant” aimed to co-opt Gaelic lords. In 1569, Murrough
na dTuadh (“of the Battle-axes”), a junior O’Flaherty, accepted an
English pardon and betrayed his kinsmen by revealing a planned
rebellion. In 1572, Sir Edward Fitton, President of Connacht, besieged
Aughnanure with artillery, capturing it—the only recorded fall of the
castle. Fitton granted it to Murrough, appointed chieftain over Donal an
Chogaidh, splitting the clan. Murrough fortified the castle, adding the
outer bawn and banqueting hall visible today.
During the
Cromwellian conquest (1649–1653), Aughnanure played a key role in the
1652 blockade of Galway, then held by Richard Burke, 4th Earl of
Clanricarde, a royalist. The castle maintained supply lines until
Galway’s surrender, after which it was granted to Clanricarde.
Post-Restoration (1660), Roderick O’Flaherty, a scholar and author of
Ogygia (1685), petitioned Charles II to reclaim Aughnanure, residing
there until his death in 1718. His son briefly held the castle before it
was lost to creditors.
Decline and Restoration (18th–20th
Centuries)
In the 18th century, Aughnanure was acquired by Lord St.
George through a mortgage foreclosure, ending O’Flaherty ownership. The
castle fell into ruin, with parts collapsing into the underground river
beneath. In the 19th century, an O’Flaherty descendant planted yew trees
to commemorate the castle’s name. In 1932, Peadar O’Flaherty, a
Wexford-based descendant, purchased the castle and donated it to the
Irish State in 1952, recognizing its historical value. He died shortly
afterward.
The OPW began restoration in the 1960s, repairing the
tower house, bawns, and banqueting hall, and opened Aughnanure to the
public in 1974. Restoration stabilized the structure while preserving
its medieval character, with a modern roof protecting the tower. In
2024, marking 50 years of public access, the OPW launched a community
initiative to collect photos, stories, and folklore, highlighting the
castle’s enduring cultural resonance.
Aughnanure Castle is a six-storey tower house, one of over 200 in
County Galway, distinguished by its rare double bawn, robust
fortifications, and picturesque riverside setting. Built primarily
around 1500, with 16th-century enhancements by Murrough na dTuadh, it
exemplifies Gaelic tower house architecture—functional, defensive, and
deliberately rugged compared to Anglo-Norman castles like Claregalway.
Its limestone construction and strategic design reflect the O’Flahertys’
martial lifestyle.
Tower House
Structure: The six-storey
tower, including a garret, stands approximately 12 meters high on a
limestone outcrop with a battered (sloping) base for stability. Its
thick walls (up to 1.5 meters) resist artillery, a concern by the 16th
century.
Interior Layout:
Basement: A vaulted chamber for storage,
now housing a display on the castle’s bat population (three species:
common pipistrelle, soprano pipistrelle, and Leisler’s bat).
Second–Fourth Storeys: Sleeping quarters for family and retainers, with
a third-storey fireplace marking the chieftain’s chamber. Narrow windows
prioritize defense.
Fifth Storey: The main hall, used for gatherings
and administration, features a large fireplace and wide, mullioned
windows for light, reflecting status.
Sixth Storey: Additional
quarters or storage, with access to the wall walk via a spiral stair
(closed to visitors for safety).
Defensive Features: Two mid-height
bartizans (overhanging turrets) on the tower’s corners enhance its
silhouette and provide defensive positions. Internal loopholes on stair
landings allow defenders to target intruders. Machicolations (openings
for dropping projectiles) line the wall walk.
Spiral Stair: A mural
stair in the east wall, carved into the masonry, connects all floors,
with small chambers for storage or ambushes.
Double Bawn
Inner
Bawn: The earlier 15th-century enclosure, partially preserved, surrounds
the tower house with a round flanker tower (now isolated due to wall
collapse) and a gatehouse. It protected livestock and retainers during
raids.
Outer Bawn: Added in the 16th century under Murrough, this
larger enclosure features five turrets and bastions, including a
southeast flanker and a dry harbor for river access. Its robust design
reflects English military influences.
Significance: The double bawn
is rare among Irish tower houses, doubling defensive capacity and
showcasing O’Flaherty wealth.
Banqueting Hall
Description: A
16th-century rectangular hall in the southwest outer bawn, partially
collapsed into the underground Drimneen River. The surviving east wall
has two windows with carved soffits depicting vine leaves and grapes,
suggesting wine imports via Galway’s trade networks.
Trap Door: A
historically documented feature, now sealed, allowed unwanted guests to
be dropped into the river below, a notorious O’Flaherty tactic. A
16th-century account describes the drowning and decapitation of an
Anglo-Norman lord’s son, highlighting the clan’s ruthlessness.
Additional Features
Watchtower: A small, conical-roofed tower in the
outer bawn, isolated by river erosion, served as a lookout over Lough
Corrib.
Dry Harbor: A riverside dock enabled boats to supply the
castle directly, leveraging its strategic position.
Underground
River: The Drimneen River flows beneath the castle through natural
caverns, enhancing its impregnability and contributing to the banqueting
hall’s partial collapse.
Restoration and Condition
The OPW’s
1960s restoration rebuilt damaged sections of the tower and bawns using
original limestone, adding a hipped slate roof to protect the interior.
The banqueting hall was stabilized, though its western end remains open
to the river. The castle’s secluded setting, accessed via a rock bridge,
preserves its medieval ambiance, but erosion threatens outer bawn walls,
monitored by the OPW.
Aughnanure Castle is a potent symbol of Gaelic identity and
Connemara’s medieval heritage. As the O’Flahertys’ chief stronghold, it
embodied their 400-year rule over Iar-Connacht, a region insulated by
Lough Corrib and Killary Harbour, where Gaelic traditions thrived beyond
English control. The clan’s piracy, cattle-raiding, and defiance of
Galway’s Anglo-Norman elite shaped Connemara’s rugged character, with
Aughnanure as their nerve center.
The castle’s capture in 1572 by
Sir Edward Fitton, enabled by Murrough na dTuadh’s betrayal, illustrates
the Tudor strategy of fracturing Gaelic alliances through “surrender and
regrant.” Its role in the 1652 Galway blockade underscores its strategic
value, while its association with Grace O’Malley links it to Ireland’s
maritime legacy, blending O’Flaherty ferocity with O’Malley’s naval
dominance.
Culturally, Aughnanure is Connemara’s only intact
medieval castle open to the public, offering a tangible connection to
Gaelic lordship. Its folklore, including four reported hauntings (a
gamekeeper’s ghost, a rolling head, choking sounds, and a banshee’s
wail), adds mystique, though these tales are likely embellished for
tourism. The 2024 OPW initiative to collect visitor stories reflects its
community significance, aiming to preserve oral histories.
As
part of the Connemara Gaeltacht, where Irish is still spoken, Aughnanure
reinforces the region’s linguistic and cultural heritage. Its proximity
to Galway city (27 km) makes it a key stop on the Wild Atlantic Way,
connecting visitors to Connemara’s untamed beauty and history.
Aughnanure Castle’s 3-acre site offers a rich exploration of medieval
architecture and history, with key features including:
Tower
House: The six-storey tower, with its spiral stair, fireplaces, and
bartizans, provides a vertical journey through O’Flaherty life,
accessible up to the fifth floor.
Double Bawn: The inner and outer
bawns, with turrets and a flanker tower, showcase defensive ingenuity,
offering panoramic views of the Drimneen River.
Banqueting Hall: The
hall’s carved windows and trap door legend captivate visitors, with the
underground river adding drama.
Watchtower and Harbor: The isolated
watchtower and dry harbor evoke the castle’s riverside role, ideal for
photography.
Yew Tree: The ancient yew near the entrance, possibly
19th-century, ties to the castle’s name and Gaelic heritage.
Visitors
enter via a modern rock bridge, with a visitor center providing tickets
and exhibits on the O’Flahertys, bats, and local ecology. The site is
compact but immersive, requiring 45–90 minutes to explore. Guided tours
(available June–September) offer deeper insights, while self-guided
visits use informative panels. The castle’s serene setting, with Lough
Corrib views and Connemara hills, invites picnics and reflection.
Management and Facilities
The OPW manages Aughnanure Castle as a
National Monument, maintaining its historical integrity while ensuring
public access. Facilities include:
Visitor Center: A small
building with tickets, a gift shop (books, postcards), and exhibits on
the castle’s history and bats (€5 adults, €3 children, €13 family, 2025
rates). Open daily 9:30 am–6:00 pm (March–October), weekends only
(November–February).
Guided Tours: Offered June–September, included
in admission, lasting 40 minutes, covering the tower and bawns (max 20
people).
Toilets and Parking: Basic restrooms and a free car park (50
spaces) are available near the entrance.
Accessibility: The grounds
and visitor center are wheelchair-accessible, but the tower’s spiral
stair limits upper-floor access. Audio guides are available for visually
impaired visitors (contact +353 91 552 214).
Events and
Activities
Heritage Week (August): Free entry, medieval music, and
reenactments, drawing 1,500 visitors in 2024.
Bat Talks: Seasonal
evening talks on the castle’s bat population, with ultrasound detectors
(€10, booking required).
School Tours: Curriculum-linked visits for
primary and secondary students, focusing on Gaelic history (€2 per
student).
Getting There
Location: Aughnanure Castle,
Oughterard, Co. Galway, 4 km east of Oughterard on the N59, 27 km
northeast of Galway city (GPS: 53.4153, -9.2786).
By Car: From Galway
(30 minutes), take the N59 toward Oughterard; the castle is signposted 2
km off the N59. From Oughterard (5 minutes), follow signs east. Free
parking is available.
Public Transport: Bus Éireann route 419
connects Galway to Oughterard (40 minutes, €8–€12, 6 daily services).
From Oughterard, a 4-km taxi (€10) or 40-minute walk reaches the castle.
Cycling/Walking: The castle is on a quiet road, ideal for cycling from
Oughterard (bike rentals €15/day). A scenic 4-km walk from Oughterard
follows the N59 and a side road.
Best Time to Visit
Open
year-round, spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer mild
weather (10–18°C), vibrant greenery, and fewer crowds. Summer
(June–August) is busiest, with guided tours and longer hours (last
admission 5:15 pm). Winter (November–February) is quieter, with
weekend-only access and occasional closures for maintenance. Plan 1–2
hours; book summer tours in advance via opw.ie or +353 91 552 214.
Visitor Tips
Preparation: Wear sturdy shoes for uneven grounds;
bring a raincoat for Galway’s frequent showers. Read about O’Flaherty
history (Wikipedia, OPW site) for context.
Photography: The castle’s
riverside setting and bartizans are photogenic, especially at sunset.
Drones require OPW permission.
Nearby Attractions: Combine with Lough
Corrib boat tours (5 km), Oughterard’s Quiet Man Bridge (6 km), or
Galway city’s Spanish Arch (27 km).
Respect the Site: Stay on paths
to protect the grounds; do not climb walls or disturb bats.
Aughnanure’s preservation faces challenges from its riverside
location and Connemara’s wet climate, which erodes limestone walls and
threatens the banqueting hall’s stability. The OPW’s annual maintenance
(€40,000) includes stone repointing and vegetation clearance, with a
2023 project reinforcing the outer bawn (€25,000). The underground
river’s erosion risks further collapse, monitored via regular surveys.
Visitor numbers (approximately 20,000 annually) strain the narrow
tower stair, managed through timed entries. The castle’s bat colony,
protected under EU law, requires low lighting and restricted access
during hibernation (November–March), balancing ecology with tourism.
Climate change, with increased rainfall, heightens flood risks from the
Drimneen, prompting OPW drainage improvements planned for 2026.
The castle’s rural setting protects it from urban pressures but limits
funding for facilities. The OPW’s 2023–2028 heritage plan prioritizes
sustainable access, with digital guides and solar-powered signage
introduced in 2024 to reduce environmental impact.