Location: 3 km (2 mi) West from Cahersiveen Map
Constructed: 16th century
Ballycarbery Castle, also known as Baile Carbery, is a striking 16th-century ruined castle situated approximately 3 kilometers west of Cahersiveen in County Kerry, Ireland, on the Iveragh Peninsula along the scenic Ring of Kerry. Perched on a grassy hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the estuary of the Fertha River, the castle commands panoramic views southwest toward Valentia Island and eastward to Cahersiveen and its surrounding hinterland, allowing for early detection of approaching threats by land or sea. The structure, now heavily ivy-covered and partially collapsed, features an L-shaped tower house plan measuring about 74 by 42.6 feet, with a four-storey projecting tower in one corner and remnants of a surrounding bawn (defensive wall). Inside, the ground floor includes several chambers, one still roofed, with two staircases leading to the grassy first floor containing windows and small rooms; higher levels are inaccessible due to the missing back wall. The castle's strategic coastal location not only provided defensive advantages but also facilitated trade, as the wealthy McCarthy Mor clan imported goods from European cities via the sea. Today, it stands as one of the largest castles on the Iveragh Peninsula, its ivy-draped ruins evoking a romantic, timeless quality amid the rugged Irish landscape.
Early History and Construction
The site's history
dates back to at least 1398, when the death of Taghd MacCarthaigh (Tadhg
na Mainistreach Mac Carthaigh Mór), a member of the McCarthy family, was
recorded there, suggesting an earlier residence or fortified structure
existed on the location since the late 14th century or possibly even the
13th century. Local tradition attributes the castle's construction to
Carbery O'Shea in the 15th century, but historical records indicate it
belonged to the Gaelic Lords of Desmond, specifically the McCarthy Mor
clan, who built the present tower house in the 16th century on the
foundations of this older building. The castle was constructed on an
embankment along the river estuary, featuring a high surrounding wall
(now partially remaining with arrow slits at the base), three
ground-floor rooms, a dangerous staircase to the first floor with two
large rooms, and a window overlooking the Fertha River. This design
reflected typical Irish tower houses of the era, emphasizing defense
while accommodating residential needs.
Ownership and Occupants
Ballycarbery Castle was primarily associated with the McCarthy Mor
family, the powerful Gaelic chieftains of Desmond, who used it as a
stronghold and residence from the 16th century onward. However, it was
often occupied and maintained by their wardens or constables, the
O'Connell family, starting around 1350, who served as caretakers for the
McCarthys. The McCarthys' wealth is evident in their ability to import
luxury goods, underscoring the castle's role in trade and prestige.
Following the death of Donal (or Daniel) McCarthy More in 1596,
ownership passed to Sir Valentine Browne, an English planter, marking a
shift amid the Tudor conquest of Ireland. The O'Connells retained
control until the early 17th century, when much of the McCarthy Mor
territory, including areas around the Lakes of Killarney, was
transferred to the Brownes, who later became the Earls of Kenmare. In
the 18th century, the Lauder family occupied the site, constructing a
new house incorporating the castle's barn wall.
Significant
Events and Decline
The castle's most pivotal event occurred during
the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland (part of the War of the Three
Kingdoms) in 1651-1652, when Parliamentary forces under Oliver Cromwell
captured and "slighted" (deliberately damaged) the structure while
fortifying nearby Valentia Harbor. Cannon fire inflicted severe damage,
particularly to the southern section, leaving cannonballs exposed to the
elements for centuries and accelerating the castle's ruin. Despite this,
enough of the structure survived for later use.
In the 18th century,
the Lauder family's house was built on site, as depicted in a 1792
watercolor by Daniel Grose, which shows the castle already in partial
ruin. By 1910, a tenant farmer demolished about 25 feet of the southern
outer bawn wall for stone clearance, further contributing to its
deterioration until halted. The Lauder house was demolished in the early
20th century, leaving the castle in its current ruined state.
Legends and Notable Stories
Ballycarbery Castle is steeped in local
folklore. One prominent legend suggests it was connected by an
underground tunnel to the nearby Leacanabuaile and Cahergal Stone Ring
Forts, a belief supported by the presence of souterrains (underground
passages) and small tunnels in those ancient forts. This tale
underscores the site's ancient defensive networks and adds a layer of
mystery to its history.
Another well-known story involves two
O'Connell brothers serving as constables for the MacCarthy Mór. The
elder brother occupied the lower storey, while the younger resided on
the upper. Both wished to host a dinner for their lord on the same
night. To settle the rivalry, MacCarthy Mór decreed he would dine with
whoever prepared the meal first. The elder blocked the stairs and posted
guards to prevent the younger from accessing his quarters or exiting.
Undeterred, the younger brother ingeniously cooked his food in pots
filled with Spanish wine, allowing him to ready the dinner faster and
host the lord. This anecdote highlights the resourcefulness and familial
tensions among the castle's occupants.
Current Status and
Preservation
Today, Ballycarbery Castle remains in ruins, with less
than half of its original high wall intact and no preservation efforts
undertaken despite its status as a listed building. It was in use from
1398 until the 20th century but fell into disrepair following the Lauder
house's demolition. Since 2017, the site has been closed to the public
as it is on privately owned land, with access restricted for health and
safety reasons due to its unstable condition. Visitors can admire the
ruins from a parking area about 100 meters away or from the adjacent
beach, but entry is prohibited. The castle's enduring presence continues
to attract those interested in Ireland's medieval history, serving as a
poignant reminder of the region's turbulent past.
Overall Structure and Layout
The castle exhibits an
L-shaped plan, typical of Irish tower houses from the period, combining
residential and defensive functions. Its main body forms a rectangular
block measuring approximately 74 feet by 42.6 feet (about 22.5 meters by
13 meters), with a prominent projecting tower at the northeast corner
that rises to four storeys. This tower, a key architectural feature,
provided elevated vantage points for defense and living quarters. The
entire complex was originally enclosed by a bawn—a defensive outer
wall—that formed a protective courtyard, though much of this was
demolished in 1910 by a tenant farmer seeking building materials,
leaving only fragments of the west and northwest sections intact. Less
than half of the original walls remain standing, with the southern and
back sections largely collapsed, exposing the interior to the elements.
The layout emphasizes verticality, with multiple levels accessed via
internal staircases, reflecting the tower house style where upper floors
housed private chambers while the ground level served utilitarian
purposes.
Materials and Construction
Constructed primarily
from local stone masonry, the castle's walls are composed of roughly
hewn limestone blocks, typical of medieval Irish fortifications in the
region. The stonework features lintelled and splayed embrasures for
windows and loops, with some areas showing corbels—projecting stone
brackets—at second-story height to support upper floors or vaults.
Vaulted ceilings, roofed with stone slabs, are evident in surviving
ground-floor chambers, providing structural stability and fire
resistance. The extensive ivy coverage, which has overgrown much of the
facade, adds to the romantic ruin aesthetic but also contributes to
ongoing deterioration by infiltrating mortar joints. No evidence of
elaborate decorative elements survives, underscoring its utilitarian
design as a fortified residence rather than a grand palace.
Defensive Features
As a defensive stronghold, Ballycarbery
incorporated several military architectural elements suited to its
coastal location. The high bawn wall, now partially ruined, featured
arrow slits (narrow vertical openings) along its base for archers or
early firearms, allowing defenders to repel attackers while remaining
protected. Narrow defensive loops—slit windows with splayed interiors
for wider firing angles—are scattered throughout the walls, particularly
in the entrance lobby and lower levels, providing light and ventilation
while serving as gunports. The corner tower enhanced this with elevated
battlements, originally crenellated for cover during sieges, though
these are now eroded. The castle's hilltop siting offered natural
defense, with clear sightlines to detect approaching threats from sea or
land. Historical damage from 1652 cannon fire is visible in the
collapsed southern sections, where large chunks of masonry were
dislodged, highlighting the structure's vulnerability to artillery
despite its robust design.
Interior Details
The interior
layout reflects a multi-level design focused on functionality. The
ground floor comprises three vaulted chambers, two of which lack their
southern walls and are open to exploration. One large chamber remains
fully intact with a high vaulted roof and a corner staircase leading
upward. Access to the first floor is via two mural (wall-embedded)
staircases: one well-preserved internal flight from the ground-floor
chamber, roofed with slabs and lit by three narrow loops, and another
external one that is slightly damaged. The first floor, now
grass-covered and mostly open, features remnants of small rooms, arched
windows (including a possible three-light window and smaller eastern
ones), and large halls indicated by corbels. Higher levels in the tower
include vaulted rooms and additional staircases, but the second floor
and beyond are inaccessible due to the collapsed back wall, where steps
likely once attached. Windows throughout are narrow and splayed,
balancing light with security.
Changes Over Time and Current
State
Architecturally, the castle evolved from a simple tower house
in the 16th century to include later modifications. Post-1652 damage
left it in ruins, but in the 18th century, the Lauder family added a
house attached to the bawn wall, incorporating parts of the barn-like
structure; this was depicted in a 1792 watercolor showing fallen masonry
from the mid-17th-century attack. The house was demolished in the early
20th century, and further wall sections were removed around 1910. Today,
the ruin is heavily overgrown with ivy, with unstable walls posing
risks—public access was closed by 2017. Despite this, it remains a
picturesque testament to Ireland's medieval heritage, blending defensive
architecture with the natural landscape.
Since 2017, Ballycarbery Castle has been closed to the
public due to its location on private land and concerns over safety, as
the crumbling stonework poses significant risks. Visitors can view the
castle from a small parking area approximately 100 meters away, where an
information board provides historical context. Signs prohibiting
trespassing and electric fences reinforce the restricted access, a
change attributed to the landowner’s concerns about liability following
incidents of visitors climbing the ruins and sustaining injuries. Prior
to 2017, visitors could explore the grounds and even climb parts of the
ruins, though this was always at their own risk.
The castle’s
isolation and restricted access contribute to its relative obscurity
compared to other Ring of Kerry attractions, making it a quieter
destination even during peak tourist seasons. Its photogenic quality,
particularly during sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the
texture of the stone and ivy, makes it a favorite for photographers. The
castle is often used as a backdrop for wedding photos, though permission
from the landowner is required.
Ballycarbery Castle is a listed building, but little has been done to preserve it, leading to ongoing deterioration from weathering and neglect. After the 1652 bombardment, much of the castle’s stone was taken for local construction, further reducing its integrity. Discussions on platforms like Reddit highlight local frustration over the lack of government intervention to protect the castle, especially compared to other heritage sites in Kerry that receive maintenance. The castle’s private ownership complicates preservation efforts, as the landowner has prioritized safety and liability over public access or restoration. Some advocate for its classification as a heritage asset to secure funding for stabilization, but no progress has been made.
To reach Ballycarbery Castle, visitors should follow
directions from Cahersiveen, locally known as the “over the water” area.
From the town, drive past the library and the Old Barracks (Cahersiveen
Castle) on Bridge Street, cross the estuary bridge, and continue for
about 600 meters to a crossroads. Turn left, drive 1.4 kilometers, and
take a left at the signposted turn for the castle. The parking area is
100 meters further on the left. The narrow country roads require
cautious driving, and guided tours are recommended for those unfamiliar
with the area.
The best time for photography is in the evening
from the nearby beach, where the castle’s silhouette against the sunset
or high tide creates a dramatic effect. Visitors should bring
comfortable shoes, rain gear, and a camera, but must respect the
no-trespassing signs to avoid legal or safety issues.
Ballycarbery Castle’s ruinous state enhances its
romantic and evocative appeal, as noted by travelers who find its
decrepit condition hauntingly beautiful. The ivy-covered walls, set
against the wild Kerry landscape, evoke a sense of timelessness and
mystery, aligning with Ireland’s reputation for fairy-tale-like scenery.
Its relative solitude, compared to more tourist-heavy sites, allows
visitors to appreciate its grandeur in a serene setting, fostering a
connection to Ireland’s medieval past.
The castle’s story also
reflects broader themes in Irish history: the rise and fall of Gaelic
lords, the impact of English conquest, and the challenges of preserving
heritage in a modern context. Its current state serves as a poignant
reminder of the fragility of historical sites and the tension between
private ownership and public access.