Castle Oliver (Clonodfoy), Ireland

Castle Oliver

Location: County Limerick Map

Constructed: 1658 by Captain Robert Oliver

Official site

 

Castle Oliver, also known as Clonodfoy (from the Irish Cloch an Otbhaidhigh, meaning "the stone structure of Otway"), is a Victorian castle-style country house located in the southern part of County Limerick, Ireland, near the villages of Ardpatrick and Ballyorgan. Built between 1845 and 1848 in the Scottish Baronial style, this magnificent red sandstone structure was designed for entertaining rather than defense, standing in stark contrast to the fortified tower houses like Castle Donovan or Carrigaholt Castle. Nestled under the Ballyhoura Mountains, Castle Oliver commands breathtaking views over its former 20,000-acre estate and boasts Ireland’s largest private wine cellar, reputedly holding 55,000 bottles.

 

History

The lands of Castle Oliver were first settled around 1658 by Captain Robert Oliver, a Cromwellian soldier from Kent, England, who was granted “all the land he could see from Seefin” in the Ballyhoura Mountains, initially 1,950 acres, which he expanded to 20,000 acres. This followed the suppression of the Irish rebellion of 1641–1652, during which lands were confiscated from Gaelic lords and redistributed to English soldiers. Robert Oliver, elected MP for Limerick in 1661, established his family at Clonodfoy House, a predecessor to the current castle located a thousand yards southwest. The earlier castle was the birthplace of Eliza Oliver, mother of the infamous Lola Montez, a 19th-century dancer and mistress of King Ludwig I of Bavaria, who brought scandal and intrigue to European courts.

Key Historical Developments
Oliver Family and Land Accumulation (1658–1812): The Olivers, through strategic marriages, amassed wealth and influence. By the late 17th century, they were settled at Clonodfoy, with Captain Robert Oliver receiving lands in the barony of Coshlea, Limerick, and Clanmorris, Kerry, in 1666. In 1734, Robert Oliver, MP for Kilmallock, married Jane Katherine Silver, co-heiress of John Silver, bringing lands in Cork and Tipperary. Their son, Silver Oliver, married Isabella Sarah Newman of Newberry Manor, Cork, and their grandson, Richard Philip Oliver, married Mary Turner, heiress to the Gascoigne estates in Yorkshire. This marriage brought significant wealth, prompting Richard to move to Parlington Hall, Yorkshire, in 1812, leaving Clonodfoy in the hands of a bailiff, James Galloway, who allowed it to fall into ruin by 1837.
Reconstruction by the Oliver-Gascoigne Sisters (1845–1848): After Richard Oliver-Gascoigne’s death in 1843, his daughters, Mary Isabella and Elizabeth Oliver-Gascoigne, inherited the estates. These accomplished sisters, both skilled artisans, commissioned Yorkshire architect George Fowler Jones to rebuild Castle Oliver in 1845, completing it by 1848. The new castle, constructed of local pink sandstone, was designed to provide employment during and after the Great Famine (1845–1852), with the sisters reportedly selling personal collections to fund relief efforts and feed the starving. Their altruistic work, though underrecognized, saved many lives. The sisters married into the Trench family of Woodlawn, Galway—Elizabeth wed Frederic Mason Trench, 2nd Baron Ashtown, in 1852—cementing ties between prominent Anglo-Irish families.
Decline and Restoration (20th Century): The last Trench family member, Mrs. Lynn Trench, sold Castle Oliver in 1978 to racing driver Billy Coleman. The castle changed hands multiple times, eventually falling to a local bank that divided the estate into lots. Unable to find a buyer, the castle suffered vandalism and theft, appearing in the Irish Georgian Society’s Vanishing Houses of Ireland. In 1988, Damian Haughton purchased it, halting major roof leaks. Nicholas Browne acquired it in 1998, continuing restoration, and in 2006, Declan and Emma Cormack from County Antrim bought and extensively restored it, reviving rooms like the library and St. Patrick’s stained glass window. In 2015, the Cormacks sold it to the Ralph family from Australia, who use it as a part-time residence.

 

Architectural Features

Castle Oliver is a masterpiece of Scottish Baronial architecture, characterized by its romantic, castle-like appearance with defensive elements purely for aesthetic purposes. Designed by George Fowler Jones, assisted by Sir Thomas Deane, it is built of local red sandstone, quarried on the estate, giving it a warm, distinctive hue. The castle’s irregular, multi-story layout over a basement includes a battlemented corner keep, a circular turret tower, and a stable block with an octagonal tower, creating a dramatic silhouette against the Ballyhoura Mountains.

Exterior: The castle stands on massive terraces, offering panoramic views of its former estate. It features stepped gables, corbelled oriel windows, and a pierced Jacobethan parapet adorned with heraldic beasts, including mythical griffins that guard the terraces. A double-story porte-cochère with battered piers forms the side entrance, while the high-pitched slate roof, supported by an innovative iron framework, was considered advanced for its time. The gate lodge and gateway, also in Scottish Baronial style, feature dressed sandstone, a battlemented parapet, and a plaque with the O’Sullivan motto Lámh Foisteanach Abú, Súileabháin Beare, reflecting historical ties.
Interior: The castle’s 110 rooms are designed for opulence, including a ballroom, drawing room, library, morning room, dining room, and Clonodfoy Hall. The interiors boast hand-painted ceilings, ornate corbels, and superb stained glass windows, many designed and executed by the Oliver-Gascoigne sisters. Notable features include a 16-foot stained glass window with heraldic symbols on the grand oak staircase and a ballroom fireplace with verre églomisé (back-painted glass panels). The wood-paneled library has intricately carved mahogany bookcases and a chimney piece, while the wine cellar, one of Ireland’s largest, can hold 55,000 bottles. A stone spiral staircase connects all floors, leading to a bell tower.
Grounds: The 15-acre estate includes manicured terraced lawns, a lake with ornamental fish and a viewing bridge, woodland trails, a sunken orchard garden with a fountain, and a folly with an outdoor hot tub. Mature oak, lime, and beech trees frame the grounds, offering privacy and stunning views of the Ballyhoura Mountains.
Condition: Extensively restored by the Cormacks, the castle is in excellent condition, with period furnishings, hand-carved four-poster beds, and luxurious en-suite bathrooms. Though a private residence, it was briefly open for public tours in 2014 during the Limerick City of Culture.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Castle Oliver is a testament to the Anglo-Irish ascendancy and the cultural shifts of the 19th century. Unlike defensive castles like Croagh Patrick or Carrigaholt, it reflects the Victorian era’s romanticized view of medieval architecture, prioritizing luxury and hospitality. Its construction during the Famine highlights the Oliver-Gascoigne sisters’ philanthropy, a rare act of compassion amid widespread suffering. The sisters’ artistic contributions, including stained glass and woodturning (Mary published The Handbook of Turning under a pseudonym in 1842), underscore their role as trailblazing women in a male-dominated era.

Notable Figures: The castle’s connection to Lola Montez, born at the earlier Clonodfoy House, adds a layer of intrigue. Her scandalous career as a dancer and courtesan, toppling a monarchy, contrasts with the sisters’ refined legacy. The Oliver family’s political influence, with multiple MPs, and their ties to Yorkshire estates illustrate the interconnectedness of Anglo-Irish and British elites.
Tourism and Events: As a private residence, Castle Oliver is not regularly open to the public but can be rented exclusively for weddings and events. The castle’s ballroom, with antique chandeliers and a period fireplace, is a highlight for receptions, while the bridal suite features a carved four-poster bed. Rental costs €3,500 for two nights (castle) and €3,200 for seven en-suite rooms, accommodating 16 guests with continental breakfast. Its proximity to Cork and Limerick cities (under an hour’s drive) and Dublin (two hours via M8) makes it accessible for international visitors.
Local Context: Nestled between Ardpatrick and Ballyorgan, the castle is part of the Ballyhoura region, known for outdoor activities like hunting, fishing, and racing. Nearby Castle Oliver Farm, a 17th-century estate, offers luxury self-catering with views of the castle, earning high praise on Tripadvisor for its scenic setting and hosts, Alyce and Michael.

 

Haunting Legends

Local lore suggests the estate is haunted by James Galloway, the bailiff blamed for Clonodfoy’s ruin in the 1830s. His ghost is said to wander the demesne, a reminder of neglect during a time of hardship. While less notorious than Carrigaholt Castle’s malevolent spirit, this tale adds a touch of mystique to the castle’s history.

 

Current State and Visitor Information

Castle Oliver is a private residence, primarily used by the Ralph family for part of the year. It is available for exclusive hire, making it a sought-after venue for weddings and luxury retreats. The castle’s restoration has preserved its Victorian splendor, with modern amenities enhancing its appeal.

Access: Located at coordinates 52.3266° N, -8.4841° W, Castle Oliver is near Upper Sunville, Ardpatrick, accessible via the R512 from Kilmallock or M8 motorway. Public tours are rare, but inquiries for events can be made at (00353) 06391826 or castleoliver@hotmail.com.
Visitor Experience: Guests enjoy the castle’s opulent interiors, terraced gardens, and mountain views. The ballroom and wine cellar are highlights, while the grounds offer trails and a serene lake. Nearby attractions include Ballyhoura’s hiking trails, Mallow’s racecourse, and the River Blackwater for fishing.
Safety and Recommendations: As a private property, access is by appointment only. Visitors should respect the estate’s privacy and book in advance for events. The surrounding area is rural, so bring supplies for day trips. Check weather forecasts, as the Ballyhoura Mountains can be windy.