Markree Castle, Ireland

Markree Castle

Location: Collooney Map

Constructed: 14th century

 

Markree Castle, located in Collooney, County Sligo, Ireland, is a historic gem that blends centuries of rich history, architectural grandeur, and modern luxury. Nestled in a romantic landscape that inspired the poet W.B. Yeats, the castle is set on a 500-acre estate partially moated by the River Unshin, surrounded by lush gardens, rolling hills, and the rugged beauty of Ireland’s northwest along the Wild Atlantic Way.

 

History

Early Origins (14th Century to 1663)
The site’s history begins in the 14th century as a fortified outpost of the Irish McDonagh Clan (with possible ties to the O’Brien Clan), guarding a strategic ford across the River Unshin. It was not originally a grand castle but a functional defensive structure.
In 1663, following Oliver Cromwell’s campaigns in Ireland, Cornet Edward Cooper (c. 1616–1676), who served in Lord Collooney’s regiment of dragoons, received the Markree estate and lands under the 1662 Act of Settlement of King Charles II. This was granted in lieu of payment for military service after the defeat of the O’Brien Clan at the Battle of Limerick (or related engagements). Edward married Máire Rua (“Red Mary”), the widow of Conor O’Brien (who died in battle). Their family resided briefly at Dromoland Castle before settling at Markree; one son inherited Dromoland (remaining with the O’Briens), while the other took Markree and adopted the Cooper name for protection.
Edward’s descendants established the Cooper line at Markree. His son Arthur Cooper (1667–1693) inherited after Edward’s death in 1680. In 1686, King James II officially granted Markree the status of a manor, allowing Arthur to maintain a prison, enclose 500 acres, and hold fairs.
Times remained unstable. During James II’s attempt to reclaim the throne, Catholic forces occupied the castle, forcing the Protestant Coopers to flee. They returned after the Protestant victory at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690 and have resided there continuously since (with one brief exception during the Irish Civil War).

18th Century: Land Expansion and Manor Transformation
By the late 17th century, Markree had evolved from a fort into a more comfortable manor house, and the Coopers became major landowners in County Sligo.
The pivotal moment came in 1727 when Arthur Cooper’s eldest son, Joshua Cooper (c. 1696–1757), purchased Lord Collooney’s estate. This expanded the family holdings to about 40,000 acres, making Markree the center of one of the largest estates in the region. Joshua and his successors (including Joshua II) focused on progressive farming and further improvements to the manor.
Joshua II (who married into wealth via Alicia Synge) and Joshua III continued estate management. By 1800, the annual rental income reached around £10,000, providing ample resources for grander ambitions.

19th Century: Golden Age of Architecture, Astronomy, and Gothic Revival
The castle as seen today largely dates from the early 19th century. In 1802, Joshua III (1762–1837) commissioned the renowned Irish architect Francis Johnston (designer of Dublin’s General Post Office, parts of Dublin Castle, and Charleville Castle) to transform the existing manor into a castellated mansion.
Johnston removed the southeast corner, extended the south front eastward (creating an 11-bay façade with five interconnecting reception rooms, including a large library), relocated the entrance to the west side with a new hall and staircase under a glazed cupola, and added Gothic crenellations for a “castle” aesthetic. Italian craftsmen executed much of the ornate interior work. This remodel forms the core of the present structure.

Historical 1863 sketch of Markree Castle (post-Johnston remodel).
Further enlargements occurred under later owners. In 1866, Lt-Col Edward Henry Cooper (1827–1902) added a massive battlemented tower (expanding the dining room), a Gothic Revival porte-cochère, and a chapel designed by architect Joseph Gwilt. Interiors were updated in the 1890s (by James Wardrop and James Munro) with features like ornate Louis Philippe-style plasterwork, a billiard room, and Gothic elements. A monumental stone staircase leads to the main floor; beyond lies a grand oak double-staircase lit by a heraldic stained-glass window depicting the Cooper family tree (tracing back to King John).
The most famous 19th-century addition was the Markree Observatory, established in 1834 by Col. Edward Joshua Cooper (1798–1863, nephew and successor to Joshua III). A passionate astronomer who inherited his mother’s interest, he built what was described as “the most richly furnished private observatory known,” featuring the world’s largest refracting telescope at the time (13.5-inch lens in a cast-iron tube). His assistant, Andrew Graham, discovered the asteroid 9 Metis on 25 April 1848—the first (and, until 2008, only) asteroid found in Ireland. They produced the celebrated Markree Catalogue of ~60,000 stars. The observatory operated actively until Edward Henry Cooper’s death in 1902.
Cecil Frances Alexander reportedly wrote the hymn All Things Bright and Beautiful (1848) while a guest at Markree, inspired by the estate’s views. In 1881, Ireland’s lowest officially recorded temperature (−19.1 °C) was measured on the grounds.

20th Century: Decline, Turmoil, and Revival
By the early 20th century, landholdings had shrunk dramatically (from 40,000 acres to around 5,000). Bryan Cooper (1884–1930), a soldier, politician, and TD, inherited in 1902 and lived there with his family (except during World War I).
The Irish Civil War (1921–1922) brought damage when the Irish Free State army occupied the castle. Post-World War II, the property fell into derelict condition; it stood empty from 1982–1992 (except for use as a filming location for the 1988 TV miniseries Troubles) and appeared on the cover of The Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland.
In the late 1980s, Charles Cooper (younger son of Edward Francis Patrick Cooper, and the 10th generation of the family to live at Markree) and his wife Mary—drawing on Charles’s hotel management background—purchased the near-ruin from his brother and undertook a heroic restoration. They opened it as a hotel in 1990/1992. Notable guests included Johnny Cash and June Carter (who stayed in what is now the “Johnny Cash Room”).

Modern Era (2015–Present)
In 2015, after more than 350 years of continuous Cooper ownership, Charles and Mary retired and sold Markree Castle to the Corscadden family (renowned hoteliers behind Cabra Castle, Ballyseede Castle, and Bellingham Castle). They invested millions in extensive renovations, preserving historic features while adding modern luxury. The castle reopened in March 2017 as part of the “Romantic Castles of Ireland” collection.
Today, it offers 30+ guest rooms, fine dining, weddings, events, and exclusive hire. The 300+ acre estate remains a conservation area with red squirrels, otters, kingfishers, and manicured gardens.

 

Architecture

The castle evolved in distinct phases:
Pre-1802: Early defensive origins as a fort guarding a ford on the Unshin River. By the late 17th/18th century, it had become a more comfortable manor house under the Coopers, who expanded their estate dramatically. Elements of these earlier structures (especially the raised basement) were incorporated into later builds.
c. 1802 (Francis Johnston phase): Prominent architect Francis Johnston (known for works like the GPO in Dublin and Charleville Castle) was commissioned by Joshua Cooper to enlarge and remodel the house into a castellated mansion. Johnston removed the southeast corner, extended the south front eastward with a shallow bow plus four additional bays (creating an approximately 11–12-bay façade with five interconnecting reception rooms, the central one a large library). He relocated the entrance from the south to the west side, adding a new principal-floor entrance hall reached by broad steps under a single-storey porch. A central main staircase was introduced, lit from above by a large glazed cupola. The first and top floors were remodelled for 14 bedrooms and dressing rooms each. The entire house was lightly Gothicised with crenellations to evoke a “castle” feel.
c. 1866–1870 (Gothic Revival enhancements): Under Lt-Col Edward Henry Cooper MP, the castle was further enlarged (likely with input from architects like James Wardrop). Key additions included a massive battlemented and machicolated square tower (enlarging the dining room), a Gothic Revival porte-cochère, a chapel on the north front, and a two-storey canted bay window on the west front.
1896: Additions to the south (garden) front included a central crenellated projecting bow and an ornamental doorway.
20th–21st century: Damage during the Irish Civil War (1921–1922), periods of disuse, and major hotel conversions (1980s onward, with extensive sensitive restoration by Niall Smith Architect and others completed in 2017). The building preserves its historic fabric while incorporating modern comforts.

Exterior Architecture
Markree Castle is a detached, roughly 12-bay, three-storey-over-raised-basement stone mansion of monumental scale, presenting a harmonious yet imposing silhouette. The main roof is hidden behind a battlemented parapet wall, with dressed limestone diagonally-set corbelled chimney stacks, octagonal turrets, and cast-iron downpipes contributing to its fortified appearance. Materials include uncoursed rubble limestone in earlier sections and squared limestone for later north/west elevations, with ashlar surrounds on many features. Sill and string courses run throughout.

North (entrance) front: Dominated by the Gothic Revival porte-cochère (with pointed-arch openings and vaulted ceiling) and the adjacent battlemented/machicolated square tower featuring pointed-arch windows and a prominent two-storey square-profile oriel window. The chapel wing (with pitched slate roof and Gothic pointed-arch stained-glass windows) extends here.

West front: Features the two-storey canted bay window added c. 1870.
South (garden) front: More symmetrical and balanced, with square-headed windows (timber casements in ashlar limestone surrounds with chamfered reveals). The central crenellated projecting bow and ornamental pointed-arched doorway (with battlemented canopy, carved sandstone spandrels, pink granite colonettes, and semi-circular double perron steps) create a grand garden approach.

The overall effect is Romantic and castellated—evoking medieval permanence—while underlying Georgian proportions remain evident in the balanced bays and window rhythms. Ancillary structures (e.g., neo-classical farmyard, Gothic gate lodge, icehouse ruins) complement the main building.

Interior Architecture
The interiors provide a rich contrast: opulent florid classical decoration (with some Gothic elements) against the exterior’s Gothic Revival shell. Many original 19th-century features survive, including elaborate plasterwork, timber joinery, and stained glass.

Entrance and staircases: A straight flight of stone stairs leads under the porte-cochère to a vaulted entrance hall on the principal floor. This opens into a grand hall featuring a vast Victorian double (or cantilevered carved) oak staircase. The landing is illuminated by a huge heraldic stained-glass window tracing the Cooper family tree back centuries (to King John, Henry VIII, and early ancestors). The space includes Gothic detailing, cornicing, and period lighting.

Public/reception rooms: Five interlinked spaces on the principal floor (including a long library behind the south bow, drawing room, and enlarged dining room). These feature high ceilings, Corinthian columns, and ornate Louis Philippe-style (or Louis Quatorze) plasterwork with abundant gilding, high-relief putti supporting cartouches, trailing swags of fruit/flowers, and gold-leaf latticework. One striking room has a domed ceiling and multi-faceted bay windows. Fireplaces, panelling, and mirrors enhance the opulent atmosphere.

Chapel: A rare on-site private chapel (added c. 1866–1870, attributed to Joseph Gwilt or similar) with dark wood panelling, ornate Gothic woodwork, pointed-arch stained-glass windows, an antique church organ, and a dramatic chandelier. It features a red-carpeted aisle and vaulted timber ceiling—ideal for ceremonies.

Upper floors and other spaces: Remodelled bedrooms (many with turret or bay features) and service areas. A former billiard room over the porte-cochère has Gothic Revival panelling and roof lighting. The raised basement retains some of the oldest fabric (kitchens, stores, servant quarters).

The interiors emphasize grandeur for entertaining, with interconnected rooms flowing naturally and natural light highlighting craftsmanship throughout.

 

Modern Amenities and Offerings

Today, Markree Castle operates as a four-star luxury hotel, part of the Romantic Castles of Ireland Collection and Original Irish Hotels. It is renowned for its relaxed yet elegant atmosphere, making it a premier destination for romantic getaways, weddings, and events. Key offerings include:

Accommodation: The 31 en-suite rooms range from double and twin bedrooms to family rooms and suites, all finished to high standards with Egyptian cotton sheets, premium bedding, and modern conveniences like free WiFi. Guests describe the rooms as spacious, comfortable, and steeped in historic charm.
Dining: The castle’s restaurant serves Irish and international cuisine, with vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free options. Guests rave about the outstanding food, from delicious dinners to complimentary breakfasts, often enjoyed in the elegant dining rooms or outdoor seating areas.
Events and Weddings: Markree is a sought-after venue for weddings, with its Grand Hall and 500-acre grounds providing a fairy-tale backdrop. The castle offers exclusive-use options for events, ensuring privacy for conferences, team-building retreats, or celebrations.
Activities: The estate offers horse riding, and nearby attractions include six golf courses, the 30-mile Lough Gill trail, and historic sites like Creevelea Abbey, Parke’s Castle, and the prehistoric tombs of Carrowmore. Guests can explore Sligo’s beaches, Benbulben, or cultural sites tied to W.B. Yeats.
Service: The staff is consistently praised for their friendliness, efficiency, and dedication to guest satisfaction. Reviews highlight the warm, down-to-earth service that enhances the castle’s home-like feel.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Markree Castle is a vital part of Ireland’s architectural and cultural heritage. Its 350-year association with the Cooper family reflects the nation’s complex history, from Cromwellian conquest to the Great Famine and beyond. The castle’s observatory and the Coopers’ philanthropy underscore its role as a center of intellectual and social progress.

The castle’s connection to W.B. Yeats, whose poetry was inspired by Sligo’s landscapes, adds literary significance. Some sources suggest that Cecil Frances Alexander wrote the hymn All Things Bright and Beautiful while a guest at Markree in 1848, though this is unconfirmed. The estate’s natural beauty and historical features, like the stained-glass family tree, make it a living museum of Irish heritage.

 

Unique Features and Anecdotes

Haunted Reputation: Markree is said to be haunted by a friendly child ghost named “Pippa,” who playfully locks doors or causes minor mischief. Guests and staff embrace her presence, and some suggest bringing a gift to avoid her tricks. A 2014 guest reported hearing a little girl singing at night, adding to the castle’s mystique.
Record-Breaking Cold: On January 16, 1881, Markree recorded Ireland’s lowest official temperature, -19.1°C (-2.4°F), a testament to its exposed location.
Resident Mascot: Roisin, an Irish Wolfhound, is a beloved presence, delighting guests, especially dog lovers.
Faded Glory Charm: Unlike polished five-star hotels, Markree’s slightly worn edges and quirky character appeal to those seeking an authentic, unpretentious castle experience. Guests describe it as a “step back in time” with a magical, fairy-tale ambiance.

 

Guest Experiences

Reviews from platforms like Tripadvisor, Booking.com, and Expedia highlight Markree’s appeal. Guests call it “spectacular,” praising the stunning interiors, immaculate grounds, and exceptional service. Many describe their stay as a “once-in-a-lifetime” experience, particularly for weddings, which benefit from the castle’s romantic setting. Some note that rooms in the tower can be smaller, and solo diners may find the formal dining experience less engaging, but overall, the castle exceeds expectations.

 

Practical Information

Location: Markree Castle is in Collooney, 10 km south of Sligo City, accessible via the N4 and R200. It’s 27 miles from Ireland West Knock Airport.
Seasonality: The castle is open spring through fall, with winter bookings primarily for weddings. August is both high and low season, offering a balance of availability and vibrant atmosphere.
Pricing: Rates start at around $239 per night, though prices vary by season and booking platform. For SuperGrok subscription details, visit https://x.ai/grok.
Contact: Phone: +353 (0)71 916 7800; Website: www.markreecastle.ie. Reservations can be made via Booking.com or Expedia.