Location: shore of Lough Derg Map
Constructed: 1610- 1618
Portumna Castle, located in Portumna, County Galway, Ireland, is a remarkable example of a semi-fortified Jacobean manor house, blending Renaissance elegance with defensive features. Built in the early 17th century by Richard Burke, the 4th Earl of Clanricarde, it stands on the northern shores of Lough Derg, near the River Shannon, in the heart of Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands. The castle, with its symmetrical design, formal gardens, and rich history, is a testament to the Anglo-Irish aristocracy’s influence during a period of transition in Ireland. Partially destroyed by fire in 1826, it was acquired by the Irish State in 1948 and is now managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW), which has restored parts of the castle and its grounds for public access.
Portumna Castle’s origins are tied to the Burke (or de Burgh)
family, Anglo-Norman lords who became the Earls of Clanricarde,
one of the most powerful families in Connacht. The castle was
constructed between 1610 and 1618 by Richard Burke, the 4th Earl
of Clanricarde, a Gaelicized Anglo-Norman noble who sought to
establish a grand residence reflecting his wealth and status.
The choice of Portumna, strategically located near Lough Derg
and the Shannon, underscored its importance as a regional power
base, connecting Galway, Tipperary, and Offaly.
The
castle was built during a period of relative peace following the
Nine Years’ War (1594–1603) and the Flight of the Earls (1607),
when Gaelic and Old English lords adopted English architectural
styles to align with the Crown’s plantation policies. Richard
Burke, a loyalist to King James I, was rewarded with extensive
lands, and Portumna Castle was designed to showcase his
allegiance and sophistication, incorporating Renaissance
influences rare in Ireland at the time.
Key historical
events include:
1640s: During the Irish Confederate Wars, the
castle was a stronghold for the Clanricarde family. It was
briefly besieged but remained intact, serving as a refuge for
Protestant settlers during the 1641 rebellion.
1650s: During
the Cromwellian conquest, the castle was occupied by English
forces under Sir Charles Coote but was not destroyed, unlike
many Irish strongholds.
1688–1691: During the Williamite War,
the castle was garrisoned by Jacobite forces loyal to James II.
It was captured by Williamite troops in 1691, but the Burke
family retained ownership.
1826: A devastating fire, caused
by an unattended candle, gutted the castle’s interior, leaving
it a roofless shell. The Clanricarde family, by then Marquesses
of Clanricarde, moved to a nearby residence and did not rebuild.
1920s: The castle fell into further disrepair during the Irish
War of Independence and Civil War, with local tensions targeting
Anglo-Irish estates.
1948: The Irish State acquired the
castle and its 1,500-acre demesne from the Clanricarde estate.
The OPW began conservation in the 1960s, stabilizing the
structure and restoring the ground floor and gardens.
The
castle remained in the Burke family’s possession until the 20th
century, with the 14th Earl, Hubert George de Burgh-Canning, the
last Marquess of Clanricarde, known for his controversial
landlord practices, selling it to the State. Today, Portumna
Castle is a national monument, celebrated for its architectural
significance and historical role in Galway’s heritage.
Portumna Castle is a rare Irish example of a Jacobean manor
house, combining Renaissance symmetry and classical motifs with
defensive elements typical of earlier Irish tower houses.
Constructed from local limestone, it is noted for its rectangular
plan, corner turrets, and large mullioned windows, which mark a
departure from the verticality of medieval castles like Leap or
Ross. The castle’s design reflects English and European influences,
likely inspired by the work of architects like Inigo Jones, though
no definitive architect is recorded. The 1826 fire destroyed much of
the interior, but ongoing OPW restoration has preserved and
reconstructed key features.
Exterior
The castle’s exterior
is a striking blend of elegance and fortification:
Rectangular Plan: The castle measures approximately 30 by 20 meters,
with a symmetrical facade that is almost square, a hallmark of
Renaissance design. Its two-story structure (plus basement) is
topped by a parapet and four corner turrets.
Corner Turrets: Each
corner features a three-story, square turret with conical roofs
(reconstructed by the OPW), adding a defensive yet decorative
element. The turrets have gun loops and small windows, reflecting
the castle’s semi-fortified nature.
Mullioned Windows: Large,
multi-paned windows with stone mullions dominate the facade,
flooding the interior with light and signaling the castle’s domestic
purpose. These windows, unusual for Irish castles of the period,
reflect Dutch and English Renaissance influences.
Entrance: The
main entrance, on the south facade, is framed by a classical
pediment with carved armorial bearings of the Burke family,
including a lion and shield. A double staircase, partially restored,
leads to the first-floor entrance, a defensive feature.
Gatehouse: A fortified gatehouse, built around 1618, guards the
approach to the castle. Its crenelated parapet and arched entrance,
restored by the OPW, evoke the castle’s martial past.
Courtyard:
The castle is enclosed by a bawn (defensive courtyard), with the
gatehouse and remnants of perimeter walls. The courtyard, once used
for livestock and defense, now forms part of the visitor experience.
Interior
The 1826 fire destroyed most of the castle’s
interior, including its roof, floors, and furnishings, leaving a
hollow shell. The OPW has restored the ground floor to its
17th-century appearance, while the upper floors remain roofless but
stabilized. Key interior features include:
Great Hall: The
ground-floor great hall, the heart of the castle, has been
reconstructed with a flagged stone floor, lime-plastered walls, and
a large fireplace. Originally used for banquets and courtly
functions, it features replica oak furniture and interpretive
displays.
Kitchen and Service Areas: Adjacent to the great hall,
the restored kitchen includes a massive hearth, stone sink, and
wooden trestle tables, evoking 17th-century domestic life. A
basement below housed storage and servants’ quarters.
Spiral
Staircases: Two spiral staircases in the corner turrets, partially
rebuilt, connect the ground floor to the upper levels. The upper
floors, now open to the sky, retain traces of fireplaces and window
embrasures.
Chimney Stacks: The castle’s six large chimneys, a
Jacobean feature, are visible from the exterior and supported
multiple fireplaces, indicating the Burkes’ wealth and comfort.
Decorative Elements: Surviving fragments of plasterwork and carved
stone, including a Renaissance-style frieze in the great hall, hint
at the castle’s original opulence. The OPW has added replica
tapestries and portraits to enhance the atmosphere.
Structural Evolution
1610–1618: Built as a semi-fortified manor
with Renaissance features, including symmetry, large windows, and
classical detailing.
1640s–1690s: Strengthened during the
Confederate and Williamite wars with additional fortifications,
though it retained its domestic character.
1826: Fire destroyed
the roof, interiors, and most furnishings, leaving the castle a
ruin.
1960s–Present: The OPW’s restoration focused on the ground
floor, gatehouse, and turrets, with a modern roof added to the great
hall and kitchen. The upper floors remain unrestored to preserve the
castle’s ruinous character.
The castle’s architecture is
significant for its early adoption of Renaissance principles in
Ireland, bridging the medieval tower house tradition with the grand
country houses of the 18th century.
Portumna Castle’s 17-acre grounds include formal gardens, a walled
kitchen garden, and parkland, reflecting the Burkes’ vision of a
European-style estate. The gardens, laid out in the 17th century, were
designed to complement the castle’s symmetry and grandeur, with later
Victorian additions. The OPW has meticulously restored the gardens,
making them a highlight for visitors.
Formal Gardens
Located
in front of the castle, these gardens were designed in the Renaissance
parterre style, with geometric patterns and low hedges:
Knot
Garden: A reconstructed knot garden, based on 17th-century designs,
features boxwood hedges in intricate patterns, symbolizing order and
prestige.
Rose Beds: Victorian-era rose beds, added by the
Clanricarde family, provide seasonal color, with varieties like Rosa
Mundi and Gallica.
Avenue of Trees: A double row of lime trees,
planted in the 17th century and replanted in the 20th century, frames
the approach to the castle, enhancing its grandeur.
Walled
Kitchen Garden
The 2-acre walled garden, located 100 meters east of
the castle, is a restored 17th-century feature:
Heritage
Vegetables: The garden grows period-appropriate crops, including
cabbage, leeks, and herbs, using organic methods. These supply the
castle’s tearoom and local markets.
Fruit Trees: Espaliered apple and
pear trees, trained against the walls, include heritage varieties like
Bramley and Irish Peach.
Beehives: Modern beehives produce Portumna
Castle honey, sold on-site, reflecting sustainable practices.
Glasshouse: A reconstructed Victorian glasshouse houses tender plants,
such as grapevines and citrus, echoing the garden’s historical role in
supplying the castle.
Parkland and Lough Derg
The wider
demesne includes:
Woodland Walks: Paths through oak and ash woodlands
lead to Lough Derg, offering views of the lake and Tipperary hills.
Wildflower Meadow: A modern addition promotes biodiversity, with native
species like orchids and buttercups.
Riverside Path: A trail along
the Shannon connects the castle to Portumna town, ideal for birdwatching
(herons, kingfishers).
The gardens are maintained by OPW
horticulturists, with input from historical records and archaeological
surveys, ensuring authenticity. They are part of Ireland’s Garden
Tourism Network and are celebrated for their historical and ecological
value.
Portumna Castle is a cultural and historical landmark, representing
the transition from Gaelic and medieval Ireland to the Anglo-Irish
ascendancy of the 17th century. Its Jacobean architecture, one of the
earliest examples in Ireland, marks a shift toward European Renaissance
ideals, reflecting the Burkes’ alignment with English culture while
retaining their Gaelic roots. The castle’s role in the Confederate and
Williamite wars underscores its strategic importance in Connacht, a
region often contested by Gaelic, Old English, and New English powers.
The Burke family’s legacy, as Earls and Marquesses of Clanricarde,
is central to the castle’s story. Richard Burke’s patronage of the arts
and architecture, and his son Ulick’s governance of Galway, highlight
the family’s influence. The castle’s survival through centuries of
conflict, followed by its ruinous state after 1826, mirrors the decline
of the Anglo-Irish aristocracy in the 19th century, particularly under
the controversial 14th Marquess, whose land disputes fueled local
unrest.
In modern times, Portumna Castle is a symbol of Ireland’s
heritage, preserved by the OPW as a national monument. Its inclusion in
Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands tourism initiative emphasizes its role in
showcasing Galway’s history alongside sites like Clonmacnoise and Birr
Castle. The castle has appeared in media, including RTÉ’s Nationwide and
historical documentaries, and its gardens are featured in gardening
publications. Local folklore, including tales of a ghostly lady in the
great hall, adds a layer of mystique, though less pronounced than at
Leap Castle.
The 1826 fire left Portumna Castle a ruin, with collapsed roofs and
charred interiors. The OPW’s acquisition in 1948 marked the start of a
long-term conservation effort:
1960s–1980s: Initial stabilization
focused on the castle’s walls, turrets, and gatehouse, preventing
further collapse. Archaeological excavations uncovered artifacts like
pottery, coins, and glass, now displayed in the visitor center.
1990s–2000s: The ground floor was restored, with a modern roof added to
the great hall and kitchen. The corner turrets were rebuilt, and the
gatehouse was fully reconstructed.
Gardens: The formal gardens and
walled kitchen garden were recreated based on 17th-century plans, with
input from historians and horticulturists.
Ongoing Work: The OPW
continues to conserve the upper floors, though they remain roofless to
preserve the castle’s ruinous aesthetic. Recent efforts focus on
weatherproofing and enhancing accessibility.
The restoration balances
historical authenticity with visitor safety, using traditional materials
like lime mortar and oak. The castle’s partial ruin state is deliberate,
allowing visitors to appreciate its history while imagining its former
glory.
Portumna Castle is a major attraction, drawing over 50,000 visitors
annually for its architectural beauty, restored gardens, and scenic
location. Managed by the OPW, it offers guided tours, self-guided
exploration, and access to the grounds, making it a highlight of County
Galway’s heritage.
Guided Tours
Castle Tour: A 45-minute
guided tour of the ground floor, available daily (April–October: 9:30
AM–6:00 PM; last tour 5:15 PM). The tour covers the great hall, kitchen,
and service areas, with guides detailing the Burke family, Jacobean
architecture, and the 1826 fire. Visitors can view the roofless upper
floors from below. Tickets cost €5 for adults, €3 for children/seniors,
or €13 for a family (2+2).
Self-Guided Grounds: The gardens,
gatehouse, and courtyard are accessible without a tour for €2 (adults)
or €1 (children/seniors). Interpretive panels provide context.
Booking: Tours don’t require pre-booking, but groups (10+) should
contact the OPW at portumnacastle@opw.ie or +353 90 974 1658.
Visitor Facilities
Exhibition: A small visitor center in the
gatehouse features artifacts (17th-century glass, ceramics),
architectural models, and a short film on the castle’s history and
restoration.
Tearoom: The walled garden’s tearoom, open during castle
hours, serves tea, coffee, homemade scones, and dishes using garden
produce (e.g., vegetable soup, apple tarts). Outdoor seating overlooks
the knot garden.
Gift Shop: Sells postcards, books on Irish history,
and Portumna Castle honey.
Restrooms and Parking: Available near the
entrance, with free parking for visitors.
Accessibility: The ground
floor, gardens, and tearoom are wheelchair-accessible, with ramps and
flat paths. The upper floors are inaccessible due to stairs and open
exposure. Audio guides are available for visually impaired visitors.
Gardens and Grounds
Access: Included with castle or grounds
tickets, the formal gardens and walled kitchen garden take 1–2 hours to
explore. The woodland walk to Lough Derg adds 30 minutes.
Highlights:
Visitors enjoy the knot garden’s symmetry, the kitchen garden’s apple
arch, and the lake views. Families appreciate the open lawns for
picnics.
Feedback: The gardens are praised for their tranquility and
historical charm, though some note the kitchen garden’s produce is
seasonal, limiting variety in early spring.
Events
Heritage
Week (August): Free guided tours, historical reenactments, and gardening
workshops.
Summer Events: Occasional concerts, craft fairs, and
children’s activities (e.g., treasure hunts) in the gardens.
Private
Hire: The castle grounds are available for weddings and events, with the
great hall used for receptions (by arrangement with the OPW).
Getting There
Location: Portumna, Co. Galway, H53 YK27, 2 km from
Portumna town center.
By Car: 45 km from Galway City, 60 km from
Limerick, 150 km from Dublin via the M6/N65. Free parking is available
at the castle.
By Public Transport: The nearest train station is
Ballinasloe (25 km), with bus connections to Portumna (Bus Éireann route
547 from Galway or Nenagh). A 20-minute walk or taxi from Portumna town
is required.
On Foot/Cycle: A scenic 2-km path along the Shannon
connects Portumna town to the castle, ideal for walkers and cyclists.
Nearby Attractions
Portumna Forest Park (2 km): Offers hiking,
cycling, and wildlife (red deer, fallow deer).
Lough Derg (0.5 km):
Popular for boating, fishing, and kayaking.
Clonmacnoise (40 km): A
6th-century monastic site.
Birr Castle Gardens (30 km): Features
historic gardens and a science center.
Visitors describe Portumna Castle as “a hidden treasure,” praising its elegant architecture, informative tours, and serene gardens. The great hall’s restoration and the kitchen garden’s authenticity are highlights, though some wish the upper floors were accessible or more furnished. The tearoom’s fresh food and friendly staff earn high marks, but peak-season crowds can cause delays. Families appreciate the open spaces, though parents note the lack of a playground. The Lough Derg views and woodland walks are universally loved, with photographers citing the castle’s symmetry as a draw.
Portumna Castle is a cornerstone of Ireland’s Jacobean heritage,
offering a rare glimpse into the early 17th-century Anglo-Irish world.
Its Renaissance design, unique in Ireland, bridges the medieval and
modern eras, reflecting the cultural ambitions of the Clanricarde
family. The castle’s survival through wars and its partial ruin state
after the 1826 fire tell a story of resilience and loss, resonating with
Ireland’s complex history of colonization and independence. The OPW’s
restoration has made it a model of heritage preservation, balancing
authenticity with accessibility.
As a key attraction in Ireland’s
Hidden Heartlands, Portumna Castle supports local tourism, drawing
visitors to Galway’s lesser-known east. Its gardens and tearoom promote
sustainable practices, while events like Heritage Week foster community
engagement. The castle’s inclusion in guidebooks, TV programs, and
tourism campaigns (e.g., Fáilte Ireland) underscores its national
importance. Though less haunted than Leap Castle or as opulent as
Lismore, Portumna’s understated elegance and historical depth make it a
cultural gem.