County Laois, located in the heart of Ireland’s Midlands, is a landlocked county known for its rich history, diverse landscapes, and cultural heritage. Often overshadowed by more famous Irish destinations, Laois (pronounced "Leesh") offers a blend of ancient sites, rolling hills, vibrant towns, and a strong sense of community.
County Laois spans approximately 1,720 square kilometers, making it
one of Ireland’s smaller counties. It is bordered by counties Offaly,
Kildare, Carlow, Kilkenny, Tipperary, and Westmeath. The county’s
central location places it within easy reach of Dublin (about 80 km
southwest) and other major cities like Cork and Galway.
Topography: Laois features a mix of flat, fertile plains and gently
rolling hills. The Slieve Bloom Mountains, shared with County Offaly,
form the county’s most prominent natural feature. These low mountains,
rising to about 527 meters at Arderin, are among Ireland’s oldest ranges
and offer scenic hiking trails, blanket bogs, and diverse flora and
fauna.
Rivers and Waterways: The River Barrow, River Nore, and River
Erkina flow through Laois, shaping its fertile agricultural lands and
providing opportunities for fishing and kayaking. The Grand Canal, a
historic waterway, also passes through the county, connecting it to
Dublin and the River Shannon.
Climate: Laois experiences Ireland’s
typical temperate oceanic climate, with mild summers (average highs of
18–20°C) and cool, wet winters (average lows of 2–5°C). Rainfall is
evenly distributed throughout the year, supporting lush greenery.
Laois has a storied past, with evidence of human settlement dating
back to the Neolithic period. Its history is marked by Gaelic
chieftains, Norman invasions, English colonization, and Ireland’s
struggle for independence.
Prehistoric and Early History:
Archaeological sites like the Rock of Dunamase, a dramatic hilltop
fortress, reveal Laois’s ancient significance. The county is dotted with
ring forts, standing stones, and ogham stones, indicating early Celtic
activity.
Medieval Period: The arrival of the Normans in the 12th
century left a lasting mark, particularly at Dunamase, which became a
stronghold for figures like Isabel de Clare and her husband, William
Marshal. Laois was part of the medieval Kingdom of Leinster.
Plantation and Renaming: In the 16th century, Laois was one of the first
areas subjected to English plantation schemes under Queen Mary I. The
county was renamed "Queen’s County" (with Portlaoise as "Maryborough")
to honor the queen. Gaelic chieftains, notably the O’Moores, fiercely
resisted English rule, leading to prolonged conflict.
19th and 20th
Centuries: Laois played a role in Ireland’s Land War and War of
Independence. After independence in 1922, the county reverted to its
Irish name, Laois, and Portlaoise became its official county town.
Modern Era: Today, Laois is a peaceful county with a focus on preserving
its heritage while embracing modern development.
Laois has a strong sense of local pride, rooted in its Gaelic
heritage and community spirit. The county’s culture is expressed through
music, sports, festivals, and language.
Gaelic Games: Laois is
passionate about Gaelic football and hurling, with local clubs and the
county teams competing in national competitions. O’Moore Park in
Portlaoise is the hub for GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association) activities.
Music and Arts: Traditional Irish music thrives in Laois, with sessions
in pubs across towns like Portlaoise, Mountmellick, and Abbeyleix. The
county hosts festivals like the Laois International Music Festival and
the Electric Picnic, a major music and arts festival held annually in
Stradbally, attracting international acts and tens of thousands of
visitors.
Irish Language: While English is the primary language,
efforts to promote Irish (Gaelic) are evident in schools and cultural
events. Laois has a small but active Irish-speaking community.
Literature and Folklore: Laois has inspired writers and poets, and its
folklore includes tales of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, fairy forts, and
legendary figures like the warrior Fionn MacCumhaill.
Laois’s economy is diverse, balancing agriculture, industry, and
tourism.
Agriculture: The county’s fertile plains support dairy,
beef, and arable farming. Laois is part of Ireland’s agricultural
heartland, with many family-run farms.
Industry and Commerce:
Portlaoise, the county’s largest town, is a commercial hub with retail,
logistics, and manufacturing. The town is home to Ireland’s largest
maximum-security prison and several government offices. Other towns,
like Mountmellick and Abbeyleix, have small-scale industries, including
textiles and crafts.
Tourism: Tourism is growing, driven by Laois’s
heritage sites, outdoor activities, and festivals. The Slieve Bloom
Mountains attract hikers and nature enthusiasts, while historic sites
like Emo Court and the Rock of Dunamase draw history buffs.
Connectivity: Laois benefits from excellent transport links, including
the M7 motorway and rail connections from Portlaoise to Dublin, Cork,
and Limerick, making it a commuter-friendly county.
Laois has several vibrant towns and villages, each with its own
character:
Portlaoise: The county town and administrative center,
Portlaoise (population ~22,000) is a bustling hub with shops,
restaurants, and cultural venues. It’s home to the Dunamaise Arts Centre
and the historic Portlaoise Fort.
Abbeyleix: A picturesque heritage
town known for its Georgian architecture, Abbeyleix boasts the
Morrissey’s Pub (one of Ireland’s oldest) and the Abbeyleix Bog Project,
a conservation initiative.
Mountmellick: Famous for its Quaker
heritage and Mountmellick embroidery, this town has a rich industrial
past tied to textiles and brewing.
Stradbally: A small town famous
for hosting the Electric Picnic and the National Steam Rally, showcasing
vintage steam engines.
Mountrath and Rathdowney: Smaller market towns
with strong community ties, offering access to the Slieve Bloom
Mountains and local crafts.
Laois offers a wealth of attractions for visitors and residents
alike:
Rock of Dunamase: A ruined castle perched on a limestone
outcrop, offering panoramic views and a glimpse into medieval Ireland.
Emo Court: A stunning neo-classical mansion designed by James Gandon,
surrounded by formal gardens and parkland, now maintained by the Office
of Public Works.
Slieve Bloom Mountains: Ideal for hiking, cycling,
and birdwatching, with trails like the Slieve Bloom Way and eco-friendly
initiatives like the Slieve Bloom Eco Park.
Heywood Gardens: A
romantic Edwardian garden in Ballinakill, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens,
featuring lakes, woodlands, and formal lawns.
Timahoe Round Tower: A
12th-century monastic site with a well-preserved round tower, one of
Ireland’s finest.
Outdoor Activities: Laois is a haven for outdoor
enthusiasts, with kayaking on the River Barrow, fishing, golfing, and
cycling routes like the Laois Cycling Trail.
Heritage Sites: The
county has numerous castles (e.g., Castle Durrow, Lea Castle), churches,
and museums, including the Laois Heritage Trail, which links key
historical sites.
Population: Laois has a population of approximately 91,657 (2022
Census), with steady growth due to its proximity to Dublin and
affordable housing.
Diversity: While predominantly Irish, Laois has a
growing multicultural population, particularly in Portlaoise, with
communities from Eastern Europe, Africa, and Asia.
Education: The
county has numerous primary and secondary schools, with Portlaoise
hosting the Laois Education Centre. Third-level education is accessible
in nearby cities like Carlow or Dublin.
Community: Laois is known for
its tight-knit communities, with active voluntary groups, sports clubs,
and cultural organizations.
Challenges: Laois faces issues common to rural Ireland, including
youth emigration, limited public transport in rural areas, and the need
for economic diversification. The county also grapples with balancing
development and environmental conservation, particularly in the Slieve
Bloom Mountains.
Opportunities: Laois’s strategic location, growing
tourism sector, and investment in green energy (e.g., wind farms)
present opportunities for sustainable growth. The county’s cultural
festivals and heritage sites are increasingly drawing international
visitors.
Laois is nicknamed "The O’Moore County" after the prominent Gaelic
O’Moore clan.
The Electric Picnic, one of Europe’s top music
festivals, has put Laois on the global cultural map.
The county’s
name derives from the Irish "Laoighis," meaning "place of the people of
the glen."