Subway: Retiro, Ibiza, Atoch
Open: daily
El Retiro Park, officially known as Parque del Buen Retiro, is one of Madrid's most iconic green spaces, spanning approximately 125 hectares (about 308 acres) and featuring over 15,000 trees. Located in the heart of the city near the Prado Museum and Puerta de Alcalá, it serves as a vibrant urban oasis for locals and visitors alike, offering a blend of natural beauty, historical monuments, and cultural venues. In 2021, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the "Paseo del Prado and Buen Retiro, a Landscape of Arts and Sciences," recognizing its unique integration of nature, art, and history. The park's name, meaning "Good Retreat," reflects its origins as a royal sanctuary, and today it attracts millions for activities like boating, jogging, picnics, and seasonal events.
Origins in the 16th Century
The history of Parque del Buen Retiro,
often simply called El Retiro, dates back to 1505 during the reign of
the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella I and Ferdinand II. At that time, the
Jeronimites monastery was relocated from its original site to a new
Isabelline Gothic-style building on what is now the location of the
Church of Saint Jerome the Royal (San Jerónimo el Real) in Madrid. As
part of this relocation, the royal family constructed a modest retreat
adjacent to the monastery, providing a secluded space for contemplation
and rest away from the growing urban bustle of the city. This area,
initially an uncultivated wilderness east of Madrid proper, earned the
name "El Retiro," meaning "the retreat," due to its role as a spiritual
sanctuary for the devout King Philip II, who moved the Spanish court
permanently to Madrid in 1561. Philip II, known for his piety, expanded
the Retiro by adding special rooms connected to the church, allowing him
to attend mass privately from his bedroom. Under his direction,
architect Juan Bautista de Toledo formalized the layout with tree-lined
avenues, marking the beginning of the site's transformation into a more
structured garden space.
Expansion Under the Habsburgs in the
17th Century
The park's significant development occurred in the 1620s
and 1630s under King Philip IV, a patron of the arts during Spain's
Golden Age. Philip IV's father, Philip III, had been criticized for his
disinterest in governance and libertine lifestyle, so Philip IV sought
to restore the monarchy's image through cultural patronage, including
commissioning works from artists like Diego Velázquez. His powerful
minister and favorite (valido), Gaspar de Guzmán, the Count-Duke of
Olivares, played a pivotal role by donating adjacent lands and
spearheading the creation of a lavish royal complex to indulge the
king's passions for theater, balls, and entertainment. Construction
began around 1630, with architects Giovanni Battista Crescenzi and
Alonso Carbonell overseeing the palace buildings, while Italian
landscaper and engineer Cosimo Lotti, fresh from designing Florence's
Boboli Gardens, shaped the park's layout.
The Buen Retiro Palace
complex grew to include over 20 buildings, a theater for plays by
renowned dramatists like Lope de Vega, and extensive gardens featuring
water elements such as the great pond (Estanque Grande del Retiro), a
great canal, a narrow channel, and a chamfered pond. The pond, built in
1634, hosted elaborate spectacles like mock naval battles, gondola
rides, and orchestral performances on a central island, all for the
private enjoyment of the court. This era positioned Retiro as the
vibrant center of Habsburg court life under Philip IV and his successor,
Charles II, symbolizing Spain's imperial grandeur amid the Thirty Years'
War and economic strains that led to royal bankruptcies and public
resentment over the site's exclusivity. Commoners were strictly
forbidden entry, heightening tensions during a time of high taxes and
hardship.
After Philip IV's death in 1665, the park fell into neglect
during the regency for the young Charles II, though minor restorations
occurred.
Bourbon Reforms and 18th-Century Enhancements
With
the arrival of the Bourbon dynasty, the park saw French-influenced
updates. King Philip V (reigned 1700–1746) introduced a formal parterre,
the only French-style garden in the complex, reflecting the
Versailles-inspired trends of the era. His successor, Ferdinand VI, used
the site for Italian operas, adding cultural vibrancy. Charles III
(reigned 1759–1788) replaced the old walls with elegant wrought-iron
railings, continued using the palace, and established the Astronomical
Observatory and the Buen Retiro Royal Porcelain Factory, emphasizing
scientific and industrial pursuits. He also began allowing partial
public access, marking a shift from total royal exclusivity. Under
Charles IV (reigned 1788–1808), architect Juan de Villanueva further
developed the observatory.
Tragedy struck in 1734 when a fire
destroyed the original palace and theater, prompting Ferdinand VI to
rebuild the palace, though much of it would not survive long.
Devastation During the Peninsular War and 19th-Century Recovery
The
early 19th century brought destruction during the Peninsular War
(1807–1814), part of the Napoleonic Wars. French troops under Napoleon
invaded in 1808, occupying Retiro and converting it into a military
fortress called the Citadel of Madrid. They practiced maneuvers,
exploded structures, and razed most of the palace and gardens, leaving
only remnants like the Casón del Buen Retiro (a former ballroom) and the
Salón de Reinos (Hall of Realms). The porcelain factory was also
destroyed, possibly by French or British forces to eliminate
competition. Remarkably, the park's oldest tree—a Mexican cypress
(ahuehuete) planted in 1632—survived, allegedly because French soldiers
used its trunk as a cannon stand. The great pond also endured.
Post-war recovery began under Ferdinand VII (reigned 1813–1833), who
rebuilt parts of the palace (later razed) and added the Casa de Fieras,
a royal zoo with a pier on the pond for boating and fishing. He
permitted limited public entry, but the zoo remained exclusive. During
Queen Isabella II's reign (1833–1868), extensive tree planting and
landscaping filled in barren areas.
The pivotal moment came in 1868
with the Glorious Revolution, which deposed Isabella II and transferred
ownership from the monarchy to the City of Madrid, opening the park
fully to the public for the first time. Initial rules were strict—women
had to cover shoulders, men wear capes and hats—but it quickly became a
beloved urban oasis. That year marked the 150th anniversary of its
public status in 2018. The zoo opened to all, growing during World War
II as European zoos relocated animals; it closed in 1972, with exhibits
moved to Casa de Campo, and the site repurposed as a public library.
The late 19th century brought international events: the 1883 Exposición
Nacional de Minería and the 1887 Philippines Exposition, for which
architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco built the iconic Palacio de Cristal
(Crystal Palace), a glass pavilion inspired by London's Crystal Palace
to display tropical plants from the then-Spanish colony. The exposition
controversially included a human zoo. Nearby, the Palacio de Velázquez
(originally the Mining Building) was also constructed. Both now host art
exhibits under the Museo Reina Sofía.
20th Century
Transformations and Modern Legacy
In the early 20th century, the park
evolved into an open-air sculpture museum with additions like the
Monument to Alfonso XII (erected 1902–1922) by José Grases Riera,
featuring an equestrian statue overlooking the pond. The Paseo de la
Argentina (Statue Walk) displayed royal statues originally sculpted for
the Royal Palace in the 1750s. The Fountain of the Fallen Angel (1922),
by Ricardo Bellver, depicts Lucifer's fall and stands at 666 meters
above sea level, adding a unique, somewhat ominous feature.
Chief
Gardener Cecilio Rodríguez reshaped the park in the 1930s and 1940s,
creating the Rosaleda (Rose Garden) in 1915 (expanded later) with over
5,000 rose bushes inspired by Paris's Bagatelle, and the Jardines de
Cecilio Rodríguez (1940), featuring trimmed hedges, fountains, and
peacocks. In 1935, it was declared a Garden of Historic-Artistic Value
(Bien de Interés Cultural).
The Spanish Civil War (1936–1939) caused
further damage, including to the zoo and Crystal Palace, which was
renovated in 1975. In May 1936, the Crystal Palace hosted a
parliamentary vote electing Manuel Azaña as president of the Second
Spanish Republic.
In the 21st century, the park honors somber events
with the Bosque del Recuerdo (Forest of Remembrance), a memorial planted
in 2004 for the 191 victims of the Madrid train bombings. Spanning
118–142 hectares with over 15,000 trees, including a 627-year-old olive
planted in 2023, it remains a green oasis. In 2021, it was inscribed as
part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Paseo del Prado and Buen Retiro,
a Landscape of Arts and Sciences." Today, managed by Madrid's City
Council, it hosts annual events like book fairs, concerts, puppet shows,
and sports, blending its royal past with public vitality.
El Retiro is organized around a central axis, with winding paths,
manicured gardens, and water features creating a serene yet dynamic
environment. The park's design draws from French, English, and
Andalusian influences, evolving from formal 17th-century layouts to more
romantic 19th-century styles.
At the heart lies the Estanque Grande
(Great Pond), an artificial lake dating to the 1630s, where visitors can
rent rowing boats for a leisurely paddle. Overlooking it is the grand
Monument to Alfonso XII, a 1922 equestrian statue and colonnade that
offers panoramic views from its recently opened observation deck. This
area buzzes with street performers, musicians, and vendors, especially
on weekends.
To the south, the Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace) is
a stunning 1887 glass-and-iron pavilion built for a Philippine flora
exhibition, exemplifying cast-iron architecture. Now managed by the
Reina Sofía Museum, it hosts contemporary art installations amid a small
lake teeming with turtles and ducks. Nearby, the Palacio de Velázquez,
another late-19th-century structure, serves as an additional exhibition
space.
The park boasts diverse gardens, including the Rosaleda (Rose
Garden), home to over 4,000 rose varieties that bloom spectacularly in
spring. The Parterre Francés features formal French-style landscaping
and Madrid's oldest tree, a nearly 400-year-old Mexican cypress
(ahuehuete). Other notable gardens include the Jardines de Cecilio
Rodríguez with Andalusian-inspired patios and peacocks, and the Jardín
de Vivaces for perennial plants.
Sculptures and fountains add
artistic flair: The Fountain of the Fallen Angel (1878) is the world's
only public monument to Lucifer, depicting his fall from heaven at
exactly 666 meters above sea level—a detail that fuels legends. The
Galápagos Fountain, honoring Isabella II, features turtles and dolphins.
Along the Paseo de las Estatuas, a lineup of 18th-century royal statues
creates a regal walkway.
In the northeastern section, the Reservado
de Fernando VII preserves royal "whims" like the Casa del Pescador (a
fisherman's cottage), the recently restored Cat Mountain (an artificial
hill with viewpoints), and the Casa del Contrabandista, now a venue
called Florida Park for dining and events. The Teatro de Títeres hosts
free puppet shows every weekend, one of Europe's few dedicated puppet
theaters.
Beyond sightseeing, El Retiro is a hub for recreation. Rent bikes or boats, join yoga sessions, or attend cultural events like book fairs and concerts. It's pet-friendly and accessible, with paths for all abilities, though some areas have uneven terrain. Entry is free, open daily from dawn to dusk (specific hours vary by season, typically 6 a.m. to midnight in summer). Cafes and kiosks dot the park for refreshments, and it's especially magical in autumn with colorful foliage or spring during rose blooms.