La Gomera is one of the smaller, westernmost Canary Islands (part of Spain’s Santa Cruz de Tenerife province), with a rich, layered history shaped by its isolated volcanic geography, indigenous Berber-rooted inhabitants, prolonged resistance to European conquest, and pivotal role in the Age of Discovery. Its roughly circular shape (about 22 km in diameter, 370 km²), steep ravines (barrancos), and central highlands (peaking at 1,487 m at Alto de Garajonay) created natural barriers that influenced settlement, defense, and culture for millennia.
There are 6 municipalities on the island, divided into numerous
smaller and larger places
San Sebastián - capital of the
island and ferry port
Agulo - winding town on the north coast
Alajero -
Playa de Santiago - seaside resort in the south
Hermigua - Green Valley in the North
Vallehermoso - district town
in the north
Chipude - Small place on the plateau
El Cercado -
pottery village in the interior of the island
Valle Gran Rey -
tourist center in the south-west
Like the other Canary
Islands, La Gomera is of volcanic origin, with volcanic activity on
the Canary Islands developing from east to west. That is, La Gomera
is historically younger than the eastern islands of Lanzarote,
Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria and Tenerife, but older than the western
islands of La Palma and El Hierro. The country was probably settled
between the 5th and 3rd centuries. v. by Berbers from North Africa.
This is indicated by the original language of the Guanches (natives
of the Canary Islands).
It is unclear whether Phoenicians,
Greeks and Romans knew the archipelago, but various ancient writings
repeatedly refer to an archipelago of the same name, often in
connection with the legendary land of Atlantis. The islands are also
referred to in numerous Arabic, Byzantine and European writings from
the Middle Ages.
However, conquests only began at the
beginning of the 15th century. Jean de Béthencourt, who had already
taken Lanzarote and Fuerteventura on behalf of the Spanish crown,
failed in 1404 when attempting to conquer La Gomera due to the
massive resistance of the natives. At the second attempt at
conquest, two of the then four Gomerian tribes submitted to him, but
the other two tribes put up fierce resistance until the end of the
century.
From 1447 the Peraza family was enfeoffed by the
Spanish king with the "County of Gomera", from 1477 Hernán Peraza d.
J. The population rebelled against his reign of terror in 1488 and
murdered Hernán, after which his wife Beatriz de Bobadilla succeeded
him. Christopher Columbus, who repeatedly landed on Gomera before
his voyages to America, is said to have been in love with the
beautiful Beatrice and for this reason repeatedly delayed his
departure.
Spanish. However, German is also spoken in almost all shops and
restaurants. Many Germans live in Valle Gran Rey and San Sebastián in
particular, and many shops are run by Germans. Sometimes English is also
helpful.
La Gomera is also known for the whistled language El
Silbo, which is spoken by some of the locals and is now a compulsory
subject in all schools. It was probably created for communication from
mountain to mountain and has also been recognized by UNESCO as a World
Heritage Site.
International airlines do not fly directly to La Gomera. The best way
to get to the island is via Tenerife by ferry or speedboat. From Los
Cristianos, two companies travel several times a day to San Sebastian on
Gomera. The fastest is the Fred Olsen Express, which also operates the
largest ships and is therefore certainly the best choice for potential
seasickness candidates. An alternative to this is the Naviera Armas
ferry, which opened in June 2006. Unfortunately, a ferry connection to
Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey is no longer offered.
The small
airport near Playa de Santiago is only served by Binter Canarias in
regional air traffic from Gran Canaria and Tenerife North and not from
Tenerife South.
Unfortunately, there are only a few bus connections inland. An overview of lines and tariffs can be found at GuaguaGomera. The most convenient and mobile means of transport is certainly a rental car, which can be rented inexpensively from various providers on La Gomera. But hikes by bus or car stop are quite tedious and, in the long run, quite expensive with taxis.
The public holiday calendar is redefined every year by the individual
autonomous regions of Spain. For example, if a public holiday falls on a
Sunday, in some cases the following Monday or the preceding Friday is
also designated as a public holiday.
Here are the public holidays
that apply throughout the island:
Mon, Jan 1, 2024 Año Nuevo
Sat,
Jan. 6, 2024 Los Reyes Epiphany: On this day, children in Spain receive
their Christmas presents, which the Three Kings bring with them.
Tue,
Mar 19 2024 San Jose
Maundy Thursday Jueves Santo
Good Friday
Viernes Santo
Easter Sunday Pascua
Mon, May 1, 2023 Day of Trabajo
Tue, May 30, 2023 Día de las Islas Canarias Canary Islands Day
Whit
Sunday Pentecostés
Corpus Christi
Ascension of Christ Ascension
del Señor
Tue, Jul 25, 2023 Santiago Apostle Apostle James
Tue,
Aug 15, 2023 Asunción Maria Himmelfahrt
Thu, Oct. 12, 2023 Día de la
Hispanidad Day of the Discovery of America
Wed Nov 1, 2023 Todos los
Santos All Saints' Day
Wed, Dec 6, 2023 Día de la Constitución
Constitution Day
Fri, Dec 8, 2023 Immaculada Concepción Maria
Immaculate Conception
Mon 25 Dec 2023 Navidad Christmas
Los Organos - This is an exposed lava vent. The typical hexagonal
structure was created by cracks as the lava cooled.
Garajonay
National Park - Evergreen cloud forest with a unique atmosphere, has
been protected as a national park since 1981 and as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site since 1986.
El Chorro Waterfall - not a particularly
long waterfall but the hike is great and 200 meters still looks
spectacular.
Alto de Garajonay mountain - the view is not to be
missed. On a good day you can see as far as Tenerife.
Hike
La Gomera is a paradise for hikers!
A good starting
point is the climatically very balanced Valle Gran Rey (the most
touristically developed place on La Gomera). From there you can make
some nice hikes, and you can get to the mountains relatively quickly by
bus, rental car or taxi. However, it is also advisable to choose the
north as a starting point for hikes for a few days (e.g. Hermigua,
Agulo, Vallehermoso).
The equipment absolutely includes hiking
shoes, warm clothes and rain protection. When the weather is bad, it can
get really cold in the mountains! It is also advisable to take a mobile
phone with you.
Some interesting hikes:
San Sebastian - Lomo
Fragoso - San Sebastian
Degollada de Peraza (High Road) - La Laja -
Cruce de la Zarcita
Agulo-La Palmita-Agulo
La Calera-Arure
Chipude - Fortaleza - Alto de Garajonay - Chipude
High Road - El
Cedro - High Road
In 2004/2005 numerous hiking trails on Gomera were
re-marked. Two main routes (around the island and right across the
island) are marked red and white, other routes yellow and white.
Detailed information boards have been set up at all important starting
points for hikes.
Whale Watching
La Gomera has one of the
largest whale populations in the world. There is the possibility to
practice "gentle whale watching" all year round, which means that the
organizers undertake to comply with certain guidelines (minimum
distance, no running engine in the immediate vicinity of the whales and
dolphins, no touching, no swimming, etc.). and also donate a portion of
their profits to whale conservation organizations. There are also
efforts to set up a whale sanctuary in the coastal waters of La Gomera.
In general, it is advisable to find out from the operator beforehand
whether they meet the requirements for gentle whale watching and, if so,
to forego the trip.
Whale sightings are almost guaranteed, mostly
pilot or pilot whales, but often dolphins as well. With luck, even a
sperm whale can be spotted.
A watercress soup is an island specialty. Gofio serves as an insert.
This differs from our flour in that the grain is first roasted and then
ground. This way you can use it without having to reheat it. Soup with
gofio was once a staple of the locals and today it's a matter of taste.
Palm honey is made from the sap of date palms and special know-how
is required to extract just enough sap from a date palm for the palm to
survive. Palm honey is widely used as an ingredient. An example are
pancakes with palm honey.
On an island one may expect fish. The
menu often features "pescado del dia" (fish of the day). What is meant
is what the fishermen happened to catch on the same day. A special
feature and not exactly commonplace is "cantadero". This fish has a huge
head and looks triangular. It has a lot of bones and tastes very
aromatic. "Atún al la plancha" is also typical of the island, fresh tuna
fillets that have been prepared in a special marinade, which takes a lot
of time. The fish includes "papas arrugadas", which are often translated
as "shriveled potatoes". More specifically, they are small jacket
potatoes boiled in sea water that are eaten with their skins on. This
includes "Mojo". That's two different sauces. One green with coriander
and the other red with chili. You can season the fish or potatoes to
taste.
Among the drinks, only wine comes from the island and
that's not even enough. The vineyards are to be expanded in order to
quench the thirst of tourists. "Zumo" is a juice made from fruit that
has been pureed in a blender. First of all, there are fruits of the
island in it: bananas, papaya, mango, passion fruit, kiwi.
Especially in Valle Gran Rey there are many restaurants, e.g. B. La
Salsa or Habibi (both in Vueltas), El Coco Loco (Borbalan) or El Baifo
(La Playa) and some bars and pubs; Canarian cuisine is z. B. in Charco
del Conde (La Puntilla) or in El Palmar (Borbalan). Smaller restaurants
such as Abisinia (Vueltas) offer original, typical Canarian cuisine.
Tuyo in Vueltas offers very creative cuisine, but is also a bit more
expensive than the other restaurants.
In Hermigua, the Basque
restaurant Iraxtere stands out (not cheap!). A popular meeting place in
Hermigua is the Casa Creativa (the purple house) with a beautiful
terrace and a nice bar. Unfortunately, the Casa Creativa restaurant is
usually closed lately.
In San Sebastian, Casa del Mar offers
fresh fish and paella.
The number of places to stay is relatively limited. Valle Gran Rey is
recommended for hikers. There are also some accommodation options in the
north of the island (e.g. in Hermigua). There are relatively few good
hotels, good experiences have been made with the **** Hotel Parador
(relatively expensive) in San Sebastian and the Ibo Alfaro in Hermigua.
Booking in advance is recommended, especially on weekends free hotel
beds can be very scarce and you have to take what's available. Even a **
hotel can be downright lousy (e.g. the windowless Pension Colon in San
Sebastián).
Apartments and studios/rooms are best rented on site.
You should definitely take a close look at them beforehand if you want
to avoid surprises in terms of cleanliness, bugs, noise, etc. In the
high season (around Christmas and Easter), however, it is advisable to
book in advance if you don't want to spend the nights in the car or in
some hideous flophouse. Brokerage offices are also risky. You can make
the nicest promises, and in the end you get an expensive but miserable
apartment. The best thing to do is take your time and knock on the doors
of houses that seem interesting.
Gomera Lounge, La Playa 9, Valle
Gran Rey, La Gomera. Tel: +34 (0)922 805195. This accommodation was
described in the insert of a popular women's magazine as pleasant and
under German management. Price: Apartment/2 people from €45.
Pre-Hispanic Era: Indigenous Gomeros and Amazigh Roots
The first
human settlers reached La Gomera from North Africa (likely modern-day
Morocco or the Ghomara region of the Maghreb) in waves possibly starting
around 3,000 years ago, with archaeological and genetic consensus
pointing to the early centuries of the Common Era (around the 1st
century AD). These were Berber/Amazigh peoples—collectively called
Gomeros (or sometimes grouped under the broader “Guanche” label for
Canary Islanders). Genetic studies show modern La Gomerans retain the
highest proportion of indigenous maternal ancestry (U6b1a haplogroup)
among all Canary Islanders, with about 44% in the contemporary
population tracing directly to this founding group.
By the 15th
century, the island was divided into four autonomous cantons or
“kingdoms,” each tied to major valleys and ruled by chiefs descended
from a legendary king, Hupalupa:
Mulagua (roughly Vallehermoso
area)
Hipala/Ipalán (San Sebastián/Hermigua area)
Agana (Valle
Gran Rey)
Orone (parts of the north/west)
Society was
hierarchical and partly matrilineal, with nobles, vassals, and resource
access determined by status, gender, and age. Boys became warriors at
15. The Gomeros were primarily pastoralists and gatherers—herding goats,
sheep, and pigs; cultivating wild barley; collecting shellfish
(evidenced by large concheros shell middens); and fishing modestly. They
produced simple pottery from local clay, tools from basalt and volcanic
stone (taparuchas), and clothing from animal skins or plant fibers dyed
with local plants. Weapons included spears and darts; they lived in
caves, stone huts, or small villages.
Religion centered on the deity
Orahan (or variants like Abora/Arocan elsewhere in the Canaries). Sacred
sites included the central highlands (now Garajonay National Park),
where they performed offerings of goats/sheep on pyres and maintained
ceremonial stone structures (altars or solar markers). Burials occurred
in caves, often in fetal position, sometimes with grave goods; older
bones were sometimes moved to reuse space. A unique cultural legacy is
Silbo Gomero, a whistled language invented by the indigenous people to
communicate across the island’s deep ravines (audible up to 2 miles/3
km). It survived into the modern era and was later taught in schools to
prevent extinction.
European contact began sporadically in the 14th
century, but the Gomeros remained largely isolated until the 15th
century.
The Spanish Conquest and Gomeran Rebellion (1404–1489)
La Gomera was the last of the Canary Islands to fall fully under
European control, resisting for nearly 90 years—longer than many others.
French-Norman explorer Jean de Bethencourt attempted invasion in 1404
but failed against fierce local opposition.
In the mid-15th century,
Castilian noble Hernán Peraza “El Viejo” (the Elder) founded the
settlement that became San Sebastián de La Gomera around 1440–1447 as a
base for slave-raiding and trade. The Peraza family secured lordship
over the island in 1478 when the Crown of Castile granted Hernán Peraza
“el Mozo” (the Younger) the first seigneurial title for the Canaries.
Peraza the Elder initially made pacts with local clans (e.g., the
Guadehum Pact with the Hipala, sealed by shared milk-drinking rituals to
create kinship ties). However, ongoing mistreatment—arbitrary rule,
enslavement, and exploitation—bred resentment.
Tensions exploded in
the Gomeran Rebellion of 1488. Peraza the Younger (governor from 1477,
married to Beatriz de Bobadilla in 1482) was accused of an incestuous
affair with Yballa, a noblewoman from the allied Hipala clan (his “blood
sister” via the pact). The clan council, led by elder Hupalupa,
condemned it. Warrior Hautacuperche (Yballa’s cousin) speared Peraza to
death at Degollada de Peraza. Rebels besieged the Peraza stronghold,
Torre del Conde (the Count’s Tower, built earlier for defense and still
standing today), but failed to capture it. Hupalupa died soon after.
Beatriz de Bobadilla (widow, later known as a ruthless slave-trader and
reportedly a lover of King Ferdinand) appealed to Pedro de Vera,
governor of Gran Canaria. In 1489, de Vera arrived with 200 soldiers,
crushed the remaining resistance (executing warriors from multiple clans
and enslaving women and children), and ended the conquest in the sacred
central highlands of Garajonay, where many natives had taken refuge.
From an estimated indigenous population of ~2,000, roughly 10% actively
resisted over decades; over 200 rebels were killed, with many more
enslaved. The Gomeros were largely assimilated by the 16th century,
though cultural traces (especially Silbo) endured.
Columbus, the
New World, and Early Colonial Era (1492 onward)
La Gomera gained
global fame as Christopher Columbus’s last Old World stop. In 1492, he
anchored in San Sebastián for a month (far longer than planned) to
reprovision his fleet with food, water, and—thanks to Beatriz de
Bobadilla—sugarcane cuttings that became the first introduced to the
Americas. He reportedly stayed in what is now the tourist site “Casa de
Colón” and prayed at the Church of the Assumption (Iglesia de la
Asunción). He returned in 1493 (second voyage, with 17 ships) and 1498
(third voyage). The island’s natural bay and resources made it an ideal
waypoint.
Post-conquest, La Gomera operated under a seigneurial
regime until the 19th century. The economy shifted to export
monocultures: sugar cane (16th century), vines, silk, cochineal (for
dye), tomatoes, and later bananas. These were vulnerable to market
fluctuations and often relied on foreign capital. The 18th century was
turbulent (pirate raids and economic woes), but recovery came late in
the century. The 19th century saw fish-processing factories provide some
stability, alongside continued polyculture and livestock for local
needs.
20th Century to Present: Emigration, Modernization, and
Preservation
Population peaked near 30,000 in 1950 but plummeted to
~12,000 by the 1980s due to emigration (especially to Venezuela, Cuba,
and larger Canary islands like Tenerife) amid rural decline. Improved
infrastructure—the first modern dock in San Sebastián and regular
ferries from 1974—facilitated change. By the late 20th century, tourism
emerged as the economic engine, drawn to the island’s hiking trails,
laurel forests (laurisilva) in Garajonay National Park (UNESCO World
Heritage Site since 1986), and Biosphere Reserve status (2012).
Today
(population ~22,000 as of early 2020s), La Gomera blends agriculture
(bananas, vineyards, palm honey/miel de palma), small-scale tourism, and
cultural preservation. Silbo Gomero is mandatory in schools, recognized
as a unique intangible heritage. The island retains strong indigenous
genetic and cultural echoes, with sites like Torre del Conde, Garajonay,
and Columbus-related landmarks drawing visitors. Festivals, such as the
Bajada de la Virgen de Guadalupe (every five years), reinforce community
ties.
Shape, Size, and Overall Character
The island appears roughly
circular (or semi-circular in its emerged portion) with a diameter of
22–25 km, resembling “an orange that has been cut in half and then split
into segments.” This segmented structure creates a highly dissected
landscape dominated by steep slopes and deep radial valleys. It rises
dramatically from the sea to a central high point, giving it a steep,
mountainous profile that feels more eroded and mature than its younger,
more volcanically active neighbors.
Geology and Formation
La
Gomera is a classic oceanic volcanic island formed by submarine
eruptions that built up from the seafloor. Unlike most other Canary
Islands, it has experienced no significant Quaternary (recent) volcanic
activity—the last eruptions occurred around 2 million years ago—placing
it firmly in a long “post-shield erosional stage.” Prolonged erosion has
sculpted its original volcanic edifice into the rugged terrain seen
today.
Its geology includes:
A Basal Complex of ancient
submarine volcanic rocks, sedimentary deposits, and plutonic intrusions
visible in places along the coast.
Successive phases of
shield-building (basaltic) and later felsic (more silicic) volcanism.
Prominent volcanic plugs and dykes exposed by erosion.
A radial
drainage pattern centered near the island’s highest point.
The
submarine base rests on a relatively shallow ocean floor compared to
neighboring islands. The insular slopes feature submarine canyons and
channels carved by turbidity currents (sediment gravity flows), with
evidence of past mass-wasting events but relatively limited catastrophic
landslides compared to other Canaries.
Topography and Landforms
La Gomera’s interior is extremely mountainous and steeply sloping, with
a flattish central dome culminating at Alto de Garajonay (also called
Garajonay Peak) at 1,487 m (4,879 ft) above sea level. From this central
high point, deep, steep-sided ravines—known locally as barrancos—radiate
outward like the segments of that proverbial orange, separating the
island into distinct ridges and valleys. These barrancos are the
defining feature of the landscape: narrow, dramatic gorges that channel
runoff and create microclimates along their floors.
The coastline is
predominantly rugged and precipitous, especially on the west, with high
cliffs plunging directly into the sea. There are few extensive
beaches—only about 15 km of the 100 km coastline qualifies as “beach,”
mostly black volcanic sand, pebble, or rocky coves tucked at the mouths
of barrancos. Notable exceptions include sandy stretches around Valle
Gran Rey on the south coast. The north and east coasts feature more
sheltered bays, while the west remains wild and cliff-bound.
Climate and Microclimates
La Gomera exhibits striking climatic
contrasts driven by its topography and the northeast trade winds:
Low
altitudes (coastal and southern areas) fall into a hot, arid to
semi-arid desert climate with very low rainfall (often <200 mm/year
annually at sea level) and high evaporation.
Higher elevations
(especially the central and northern highlands) experience a cooler,
Mediterranean-influenced climate with significantly more
precipitation—up to 50 inches (about 1,270 mm) per year in the cloud
belt—plus frequent mist and fog.
The central mountains act as a
moisture trap, forcing trade-wind clouds to rise and condense. This
creates a sharp north–south divide: the northern half is lush and humid,
while the southern half is markedly drier and more desert-like. Valleys
benefit from springs and channeled runoff, supporting irrigated
agriculture (bananas, date palms, vineyards) even in otherwise arid
zones. Annual averages at La Gomera Airport (219 m elevation) show mild
temperatures (daily mean ~20.5°C) and low overall rainfall (~181 mm),
but higher elevations are much wetter and cooler.
Major
Geographical Highlight: Garajonay National Park
At the heart of the
island (and extending into all six municipalities) lies Garajonay
National Park, covering about 40 km² of the central plateau and northern
slopes (altitudes 790–1,487 m). It protects the largest remaining tract
of laurisilva—a rare, humid subtropical laurel forest that is a living
relic of the Tertiary-era woodlands that once covered much of southern
Europe and North Africa. The park is almost permanently shrouded in
clouds and mist, fostering lush vegetation including endemic laurels
(Laurus species), ferns, mosses, and heather. Northern valleys host the
richest “valley laurisilva” with towering trees, while southern
exposures are sparser.
The park’s topography features eroded volcanic
plugs and massive rock formations (some historically sacred to the
indigenous Guanches). It exemplifies how altitude, orientation, and
orographic lift create biodiversity hotspots within a small area.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986, it is the island’s
premier geographical and ecological jewel.
Other Notable Features
Los Órganos (near Vallehermoso in the north): spectacular columnar
jointing in volcanic rock, resembling organ pipes.
Roques (volcanic
plugs) just outside the park, such as Zarcita, Carmen, Ojila, and
Agando.
Irrigated valley floors and terraced agriculture that soften
the rugged terrain in lower barrancos.
Dramatic coastal cliffs and
sea stacks visible from boat tours, highlighting the volcanic origins.
In summary, La Gomera’s geography is a masterclass in long-term
volcanic erosion: an ancient shield volcano now deeply incised by radial
barrancos, ringed by precipitous cliffs, and crowned by a misty
laurel-forest plateau. Its small size belies an extraordinary range of
landscapes—from arid southern deserts to lush northern cloud forests—all
compressed within a 22–25 km diameter circle. This dramatic relief and
climatic zonation make it one of the most varied and visually striking
islands in the entire Canary archipelago.