Lanzarote is an island in the Atlantic Ocean. It is the fourth largest of the Canary Islands and only about half the size of its neighbor Fuerteventura. It is 1000 km away from mainland Spain, but it is only about 125 km to the African coast. It was named after Lancelotto Malocello, who is considered to be the (re)discoverer of the Canary Islands. The island's old Canarian name was Titerrogatra or the red mountains, referring to the volcanism that shaped the island more than any other Canary Islands. Another special feature is the influence of the local artist César Manrique, who worked on his home island and vehemently campaigned for nature and landscape protection - and this is how the island became really interesting for tourists. After all, it has been a biosphere reserve since 1993.
The resorts of Lanzarote are located in the south and south-east of
the island. Most of them were only designed on the drawing board a few
decades ago. Farming is still practiced in some of the traditional
communities in the center of the island. The northwest of the island is
sparsely populated and is characterized by bizarre volcanic structures.
To the north is the Chinijo Archipelago. It includes the smaller island
of La Graciosa and four other islands, including Alegranza and Montana
Clare, both of which are uninhabited. Driving across the island you will
find a large number of farms, hamlets and small towns divided into seven
municipalities:
Arrecife, largest town, capital of the island
Teguise, former capital of the island, with the holiday resort Costa
Teguise
Tías with the large resort of Puerto del Carmen
Yaiza with
the tourist center and ferry port Playa Blanca
San Bartolomé in the
center of the island
Tinajo on the edge of the Parque Natural de Los
Volcanes
Haría in the north with volcanic caves worth seeing
Arrecife
Arrecife is the capital of Lanzarote. Arrecife has a
population of 55,000, less than half the island's total population
(141,000). Lanzarote's only airport, the Aeropuerto de
Lanzarote-Arrecife, is also located here. Numerous holiday and charter
planes from all over Europe land at the airport. In addition, the
individual airlines operate between the Canary Islands. The capital also
has the port of Los Mármoles, an important transshipment point for goods
and a passenger port for shipping connections to the other Canary
Islands and to Cadíz on the Spanish mainland. Other destinations in the
Arrecife area can also be reached on foot. The fishing port of Puerto
del Naos, for example, is interesting here. Lanzarote is home to the
largest fishing fleet in the eastern Canary Islands and the seventh
largest in Spain. Even today, large quantities of tuna are caught. With
a bit of luck you can watch the spectacle. Just above the fishing port
is a large area of disused salt pans where salt was extracted. This is a
worthwhile excursion, especially for those interested in the economic
history of Lanzarote. Directly above the port of Los Mármoles is a fort,
the Castillo de San José. Today it houses the Museum of Contemporary
Art. The exhibition is open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Admission is
2.50 euros for adults and 1.25 euros for children aged 7 to 12, children
up to 6 years have free admission. The museum also has a restaurant
(serving times from 1pm to 4pm and from 8pm to 11:30pm) and a bar (open
until 1am). There is a guarded parking lot available.
Haría
Haría is (apart from La Graciosa, which belongs to Teguise) Lanzarote's
northernmost municipality. It is also called the valley of 1000 palm
trees and anyone who visits it on a day trip can agree: the north of the
island has the greenest and most diverse vegetation. The main town of
Haría itself is worthwhile, there is a lot to see: laurel bushes and
eucalyptus trees grow in the Plaza León y Castillo. There is a
handicraft market in Haría every Saturday, but it is not comparable to
the one in Teguise as it is a lot quieter and more leisurely - sometimes
there are also groceries and other products such as honey, cheese or
baskets for sale. From 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monte Corona is a 609 m high
volcano that characterizes the north of Lanzarote. Those who are good on
foot should not miss the ascent. The ascent and descent takes only one
and a half hours. However, it is advisable to hike in groups, as in the
event of a fall, no help can often be expected for days.
From
another mountain, the Mirador del Río, there is a wonderful view of the
small neighboring island of La Graciosa. You can see the island from
behind huge picture windows. There is also a small café. Opening times:
Daily from 10am to 5:45pm. Admission is €4.50 and €2.25 for children
aged 7 to 12. The Famara beaches, an ideal surfing paradise, are
certainly worthwhile. However, be warned of the strong current. Also
important is the town of Orzola, a center for bus tourists. Here you can
eat good fish right on the surf. The area around Arrieta is also
interesting: there are various sandy bays with very white sand. When the
weather is nice, a visit is worthwhile, as you can swim in the shallow
and therefore warm water.
Yaiza is the southernmost of all Lanzarote's municipalities. The
towns of Playa Blanca (as a new holiday destination), El Golfo, Femés
and Yaiza itself are particularly important. The building mania of
investors seems to know no bounds: Large new holiday complexes and
apartments are being built. A marina was also built. And the avalanche
seems to be rolling on, because the government doesn't seem willing to
decree a serious construction freeze, as 90,000 building applications
have already been waved through. However, Playa Blanca is not nearly as
noisy as Puerto del Carmen or Costa Teguise. There is practically no
nightlife here and it is also rather quiet during the day. The beautiful
Playas de Papagayo invite you to swim. They can be reached by car, but a
fee of around 5 euros per car must first be paid. Then you have the
choice between several beaches. The ones closest to Playa Blanca tend to
be the busiest and most families congregate there.
In El Golfo
you can eat very good, freshly caught fish in the large selection of
fish restaurants. The small hotel in town, the Hotelito del Golfo, is
ideal for individualists. Another attraction is very worthwhile: The
Charco de los Clicos. This is a bay and at the same time a lagoon, which
has a captivating green as the water color. This is the result of heavy
algae growth and the constant flow of seawater through an underground
connection. This is also an ideal place to look for a beautiful rock:
olivine. If you keep your eyes open in the black lava gravel, you will
quickly find plenty. The Salinas de Janubio are salt production
facilities located just outside of El Golfo. Unfortunately, the salt
pans are now only partially and automatically in operation, while wind
power was used in the past. In Femés you can visit the town square and
the Hermitage, both sights are very worthwhile. In addition, you have a
wonderful view and with good visibility you can see as far as
Fuerteventura. In Femés you can also eat well, especially the typical
Lanzarote cuisine. Yaiza has been voted Spain's most beautiful place
several times, and it seems to be maintaining this reputation: those who
drive through the town are amazed at the sparkling cleaned sidewalks. A
visit to the village square is worthwhile, in the evening you can sit on
one of the benches and listen to the magnificent chirping of the birds.
Yaiza also has the La Era restaurant, designed by César Manrique. A very
typical cuisine for Lanzarote is offered there, and the wine list is
also sophisticated.
Arrecife
Arrecife has been the capital of Lanzarote since 1852. In
contrast to Teguise, the city itself does not represent any
architectural beauty. In Arrecife, other buildings catch the eye: The
Gran Hotel was built in the 1970s and was the only high-rise building on
the island. Visible from afar and also from the plane, it was in
operation in 1991. A major fire destroyed the hotel in 1994. A reopening
took place in July 2004.
The seawater desalination plant, which
was put into operation in 1964, is also interesting in terms of
infrastructure. This plant ensures the water supply of Lanzarote by
producing 90% of the fresh water. Thus, Lanzarote is very dependent on
it and in particular on the diesel oil that powers the factory. This
dependency on supply is now being attempted with a wind farm project
near Los Valles. There are other desalination plants on the island, for
example in Costa Teguise and Puerto del Carmen. Even a few homeowners
operate desalination with solar energy. Incidentally, the water is
drinkable, but almost nobody consumes it: mineral water can be bought in
all shops, mostly imported.
Teguise
Teguise is the former
capital of Lanzarote. The place is relatively centrally located in the
interior of the island. The center of the town is the Plaza de la
Constitucion. The city's landmark, the three-aisled Church of Señora de
Guadeloupe, is also located here. The Palacio Spinola forms the west
side of the square. The palace was built between 1730 and 1780. Today it
is used for representative purposes and can be visited as a museum.
While the town is tranquil during the weekdays, it comes alive on
Sundays when traders from all over the island gather for the market. A
wide variety of items are offered. You can find clothes, jewellery, bags
and handicrafts. From a culinary point of view, no wish remains
unfulfilled. In addition to local specialties, those who can't do
without their Weißwurst or Currywurst on holiday also get a chance here.
In the case of articles without a price tag, it makes sense to obtain
information before ordering in order to avoid unpleasant surprises. In
contrast to the other markets in the Canary Islands, the market is quite
spectacular. The size, although indistinguishable from other Canarian
markets, is enormous. It is said that up to 800 stands can be
accommodated here.
A former Habsburg fortress, the Castillo Santa
Barbara, is located on the Guanapay volcanic cone on the eastern
outskirts. From here you have a good view of the city and Lanzarote. The
fortress served the wealthy families as a refuge from pirate raids.
Today a museum is housed inside, which provides information about the
emigration of the Lanzaroteños.
Playa Blanca
Just 20 years
ago, where Playa Blanca is today, there was only a small fishing
village. This village has completely disappeared. A completely new
tourist center has been created around the port. A good 15 years ago
there was only one street system here, which made the planning for the
center visible. Although there were quite demanding requirements for the
hotel construction, a thriving, artificial city has developed here. The
requirements were not always met either, as evidenced by a few high-rise
hotels on the outskirts of Playa Blanca.
Playa Blanca is the
third largest tourist center in Lanzarote after Puerto del Carmen and
Costa Teguise. In Playa Blanca there are two small well-kept sandy
beaches. The actual Playa Blanca is in the city center, a little further
east is Playa Dorada. The usual shops, pubs and restaurants can be found
on the seafront. Calle Limones, a pedestrian zone with other shops, runs
parallel to the beach promenade.
The stretches of coast both to
the east and west of the town center located at the harbor are mainly
built up with hotels and bungalows. The Marina Rubicon, which opened in
2002, stands out pleasantly from the rest of the tourist infrastructure
on the island. Here a Spanish colonial style village was built around
the marina. You can take a leisurely stroll in the pedestrian zone. The
street cafés, tapas bars and restaurants invite you to linger.
Ferries run regularly from Playa Blanca to the neighboring island of
Fuerteventura. You have the choice between the state ferry company Armas
and the Fred Olsen line. The Armas ship is a bit cheaper but slower (30
min). The futuristic Fred Olsen catamaran is significantly faster and
slightly more expensive (3/2007: 34 euros for a return trip without a
car). There is a miniature golf course near the port. Hotel Playa Dorada
offers a pitch and putt course open to the public. However, the
enjoyment is relatively expensive at 20 euros for one round (nine holes)
or 25 euros for two rounds (prices as of 3/2007).
If you like
going on bike trips, you will find a bike rental in the harbour. The
only bike path in Lanzarote so far was created between Playa Blanca and
Femés. In the Marina Rubicon there is a bowling center where you can
also play pool billiards. Playa Blanca can also be used as a starting
point for hikes to the nearby Atalaya Mountain.
Immediately
adjacent to Playa Blanca in the east are the parrot beaches (Playa de
Papagayo) (see there). This is where the beach lover goes. The city's
beaches themselves are overcrowded and not very pretty.
Playa
Blanca is a family vacation destination. The hotel facilities are very
spacious. There are many resorts offering bungalows here. Many hotels
offer quite complex animation for children. The holiday for dad and mom
can also be nice.
If you want to see a lot of the Canary Islands,
Playa Blanca is a good choice. With a rental car you can visit both
Fuerteventura and Lanzarote in one week without missing a single
highlight. For both islands you need two to three days, then you really
have seen everything.
Puerto del Carmen is the tourist town of Lanzarote. The majority of
all vacationers spend their holidays here. Great Britain leads the way
in terms of visitor nationality, closely followed by Germany. Spain
itself and the Scandinavian community of states can also be found among
the guests of the original fishing village. Over a length of about eight
kilometers, hotel follows hotel and apartment follows apartment. In
between there are also boutiques with Italian fashion, photo shops,
electronics retailers, diving shops, restaurants, bars, discos, doctors'
surgeries (Puerte del Carmen is a gold mine for foreign doctors who
speak a foreign language), followed by gambling halls, supermarkets and
other shops. Puerto del Carmen is also where the nightlife of
Lanzarote's tourists takes place.
Costa Teguise
Besides Puerto
del Carmen, Costa Teguise is the tourist center of Lanzarote. In the
1970s, new buildings began to be built on a large scale, with César
Manrique being involved at the beginning, such as the Hotel Melia
Salinas. Hardly any locals live in the town itself, but many tourists
do. Costa Teguise's trump card is the ideal conditions for surfers: the
wind hits the four artificial beaches - Playa de los Charcos, Playa de
las Cucharas, Playa del Jablillo and Playa Bastián - optimally. There is
no actual city center here, but there are several large streets (for
example the Avenida de las Islas Canarias and the Avenida del mar) where
there are shops and shops similar to those in Puerto del Carmen:
restaurants, other pubs, boutiques and the like . Overall, Costa Teguise
resembles a huge retort city that serves to entertain the large tourist
crowd. As an individual tourist and interested in the history and nature
of Lanzarote, there are certainly few opportunities to discover the
unknown. Due to its central location, however, the place is ideal for
visitors who want to do a lot on vacation.
Los Hervideros
The stretch of coast between the Salinas do Janubio
and El Golfo is characterized by bizarre rock formations. The interplay
of lava that has run into the sea and the surf mean that there are
always impressive views when driving on the road. Los Hervideros is a
section where the rocks have formed bridges into the sea or the water
caves. The rock protruding tongue-shaped into the sea can be walked on,
and when the waves are right, the water splashes meters high through the
rock caves.
Jameos del Agua
Overall, the Jameos del Agua site
is a building designed by the Canarian artist César Manrique. In a
guided tour you arrive at the entrances of the caves. Here it goes down
to the underground lakes, which are illuminated by some sunlight. It is
a peculiar atmosphere that characterizes this spectacle. In the
underground lake, there are shrimp that are completely white. No one
knows how they managed to survive up here. Here you should linger a
little and taste the flair.
A staircase leads down to the
underground lake. But then the cave opens up. A white swimming pool
borders the cave. At the small underground lake you come to the pool,
which has achieved worldwide fame. You should linger here too. The pool
is below the land surface in a depression.
If you go up the
stairs, you first have an overview of the pool. There is a small
restaurant where you can drink coffee and cold drinks. You have a
special view of the pool from up here, which you can enjoy. You also get
to see a small museum that shows how the caves were formed here.
Here you have to take your time in all parts in order to be able to
enjoy what is special about this area. Just going through it once is not
enough. The view of the pool from different sides alone is worth the
effort.
Mirador del Rio
Mirador del Rio is the
northernmost point of the island. From it you can admire the island of
La Graciosa, which is located in the north of the island. If you look to
the south, you have a wonderful view over Lanzarote and the cliffs.
Especially in spring and after rainy days you can experience a green
Lanzarote here.
Monumento del Campesino
Playa de Papagayo
These beaches are named after the abandoned former fishing village of
Papagayo. In addition to the actual Playa de Papagayo, there are a
number of other beaches, all of which are relatively sheltered from the
wind and the surf in small bays. All beaches have light, fine sand. In
combination with the azure color of the water, these beaches almost
perfectly fulfill the image of a dream beach. Despite their remote
location, the beaches are very popular and some tourists travel from the
northern part of Lanzarote to get to the beaches. The easiest way to
reach the beaches is by car via a bumpy gravel road. A fee is payable
per vehicle. Alternatively, you can also cycle or walk from Playa Blanca
(approx. 1 to 1.5 hours on foot). Unofficial nudism is also practiced on
some beaches.
Timanfaya National Park The Fire Mountains
(Montañas del Fuego), a volcanic area formed during a series of
eruptions in 1726–1730. The last minor volcanic eruptions took place in
1824. The Timanfaya National Park covers an area of 51 square
kilometers. If you are traveling by car, there is a turn off the
Yaiza-Tinajo road to the Islote de Hilario. There is a parking lot here.
Access to the national park costs eight euros per person (2012). It is
not possible to explore the national park on your own. After
registration, there is the possibility of taking guided hikes through
the park. Since the hikes are in great demand and are booked out early,
it is advisable to register before you travel if you are interested. At
the Islote de Hilario there is already a temperature of 140°C at a depth
of 10 cm and 400°C at a depth of 6 m. The heat is demonstrated by park
employees by burning camel thorn with the help of the volcano's heat.
There are artificial geysers in which cold water is filled into pipes
and a few seconds later escapes explosively as water vapor. The El
Diablo restaurant was designed by César Manrique. Here you have the
opportunity to eat dishes that have been prepared on a natural volcano
grill. The national park itself can be experienced on a 14 km tour with
tourist buses. During the journey, explanations are played in Spanish,
English and German.
Another way to explore the volcanic landscape
is to ride a camel. The starting point is a parking lot on the road that
runs through the national park. However, the ride is relatively short,
but given the inconvenience of this method of locomotion, this is easy
to get over.
Montana del Fuego
Tel. 928840057
Fax:
928173788
Visiting hours: from 9:00 a.m. to 5:45 p.m
last bus
tour: 5:00 p.m
Restaurant: from 12:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m
The national language on the Canary Islands is Spanish, but due to the long tradition of tourism on the islands it is quite possible to spend a holiday there without knowing a word of the local language. With both German and English, you can usually get by without any problems, especially on the islands of Gran Canaria, Tenerife, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, which are better developed for tourism.
By plane
95% of all vacationers arrive by plane. The pure flight
time from Germany is about four to five hours, depending on the place of
departure. There are several options for this journey: charter flight,
last-minute flights and only flights.
A charter flight is a
flight with accommodation. This is offered by all major charter
airlines. It is necessary to book the flight in the summer if you are
staying in Lanzarote around Christmas time.
Flights only are
flights that do not include accommodation. The prices are between 300
and 500 euros, depending on the season. The highest prices can be
expected at Easter and Christmas. It is useful to compare all companies
and then choose the best offer. One-way flights are also interesting,
i.e. only the outward flight. There are airlines that offer this flight
for around 200 euros. This variant is particularly worthwhile for
long-term vacationers, since the return flight can usually be organized
in Lanzarote itself without any problems. Sometimes there are special
offers for 200 euros.
With the last variant, the last-minute
flights, there is rarely low tide, i. H. the flights are available all
year round. Only in the absolute high season does it become a little
more difficult to find a flight. The market leader is the company L'tur,
which is present at all major German, Austrian and Swiss airports. In
the case of last-minute trips, a further distinction can be made between
package tours, i.e. flight and overnight stay, and flight-only. These
types of flights cost about 200 to 250 euros, sometimes a little less.
Fun fact: It's important to note that the flight is only around four
hours, not seven. With the last variant, the destinations Gran Canaria,
Tenerife or Fuerteventura are often served first. Sometimes it happens
that the airlines only announce the change of plan shortly before
departure.
Arrival
Lanzarote Airport is just south of the
capital, Arrecife. The distances at the airport are quite short. The
check-in is very modern. After landing, you go to the baggage claim area
in an organized manner. Here it takes a while for the luggage to arrive.
But the toilets are pleasantly clean.
Upon arrival, you will be
greeted as usual by employees of the travel company and assigned to the
appropriate transfer buses. Everything is very clear and stress-free.
Departure
Leaving Lanzarote Airport is just as easy as arriving.
The airport has only one terminal where all flights are handled. As
everywhere, the departure level is the upper floor and the arrival level
is the lower floor. In addition to the usual check-in counters, there
are a number of small shops here. But you don't need to worry, you will
also be well looked after in the waiting room, even if the prices are
not particularly cheap.
After checking in, you go to the aviation
security checkpoint. It has European standards, but is not quite as
friendly as in Germany. Only a little German or English is spoken here,
which is why the staff is quite taciturn.
You can always get what
you want in the waiting room. There is a duty-free shop and a few shops
here.
By boat
There is only one connection from mainland
Europe to the Canary Islands: from Cádiz to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
The ferry leaves once a week and arrives in Gran Canaria about 39 hours
later - this means two overnight stays on board. There is a connection
to Lanzarote three times a week from Gran Canaria, directly to the
capital Arrecife. The return trip is much more comfortable, since the
direct Arrecife-Cádiz connection is still in operation. All in all, you
should calculate about six days from Germany to Lanzarote. This travel
option is therefore more worthwhile for long-term residents with a car
or other bulky luggage. Alternatively, there is also the possibility of
traveling by train to Barcelona, from there by car train and sleeping
car to Seville and then covering the Seville-Cádiz route by car. As a
last option, you can travel to Seville and from there continue by plane
to Lanzarote. In the meantime, the car will be shipped to Gran Canaria
by ferry. There you can have it transported further or pick it up after
a flight to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and transport it yourself to
Lanzarote.
rental car
The best way to get around Lanzarote is to rent a car.
The roads are good and the island is small, so you can see the main
sights in two to three days. It is easy to rent a car in all three
holiday centers, Puerto del Carmen, Costa Teguise and Playa Blanca as
well as in the capital Arrecife. The market leader is Cabrera Medina (as
of 2007) with around 20 branches on the island. The prices are around
30-50 euros per day (as of 2013), including taxes and comprehensive
insurance. It is much cheaper to book a rental car in advance via an
online portal. The prices are then around 10-20 euros per day (as of
2018).
As a rule, a driver must be at least 21 years old. A
deposit is usually required. The offer mostly consists of simple cars
from the brands Seat, Opel, Renault or Peugeot. Jeeps can also be hired,
which make navigating the dirt roads easier, but they also cost almost
twice as much per day. In the low season there are regular special
offers for several days. Incidentally, fuel is about a third cheaper
than in Germany.
Public transport
Bus: The bus hub of
Lanzarote is Arrecife. From there buses leave for the following places
on the island: Arrieta, Puerto del Carmen, Costa Teguise, Playa Blanca,
Conil, Femés, Guatiza, Haría, La Asomada, La Caleta de Famara, La Santa,
Los Valles, Máguez, Mala, Montaña Blanca, Orzola, Playa Honda, Tahiche,
Teguise, Tiagua, Tinajo, San Bartolomé, Sóo, Uga and Yaiza. In general,
the buses run from the villages to the center in the morning and back in
the evening. Unfortunately, departure times are only posted at the
Arrecife bus station, but timetables are available from the train
station offices and tourist information offices. In an emergency, due to
the small size of the island, a taxi can also be arranged. Tickets are
purchased on the bus itself. Price examples (Nov. 2012):
* Arrecife -
Puerto del Carmen €1.65
* Arrecife - Playa Blanca 3.40€
* Arrecife
- Teguise €1.30
Taxi: All taxi drivers are licensed and are
generally friendly and honest. There are fixed prices for an overland
trip, otherwise taximeters are used. There are four tariffs: tariff 1
applies to journeys in cities, tariff 2 for return journeys, tariff 3
for intercity journeys (which have no fixed prices) and tariff 4, which
applies to public holidays. There are taxi ranks in all major towns,
otherwise taxis can be stopped by hand signal when the green light on
the roof light is on.
More private transport
Bicycle: Because
Lanzarote is a flat island (about 600 m as the highest point), it is
ideal for cycling. Almost all paved roads can be used, even the main
axis between Arrecife and Tías, the LZ-2, can be used because shoulder
strips have been installed. Lanzarote is also suitable for using
mountain bikes. It should be remembered that it is not allowed to drive
off the slopes, roads and paths, as this will disturb the growth of the
lichens.
Hiking: The island is certainly not a big paradise for
hikers. There is too little vegetation and the landscape is too bare.
Nevertheless, it is very worthwhile to hike around Lanzarote. There are
guided hikes, for example in the Timanfaya National Park. The guides
pass on a lot of information about the lava landscape. On the other
hand, you can also hike individually and on sight without any problems.
A bigger problem is the bad transfer situation, since you always have to
go to the starting point by rental car or taxi. It is beneficial to wear
sturdy and durable footwear, as the sharp-edged lava will easily and
quickly cut through sneakers or sandals. It is also necessary to take
plenty of water or other liquids with you, as there are very few water
sources. Summer is often too hot for long hikes. The most suitable are
early spring and spring itself, as that is when the plants sprout.
Beware of sudden changes in the weather: it is useful to take rain gear
with you, even if the sky is cloudless.
Ferry connections: The small
neighboring island in the north, La Graciosa, as well as the larger
island, Fuerteventura, can be visited by ferries. La Graciosa is car
free, so the car must be left in Lanzarote. Not all providers allow you
to take a rental car to Fuerteventura. In this case, please ask directly
when renting whether this is permitted.
Geological Origins and Prehistory
Lanzarote is one of the oldest
Canary Islands, formed around 15 million years ago by volcanic activity
linked to the Canary hotspot. Its rugged landscape of craters, lava
fields (malpaís), and black-sand beaches predates human presence by
eons.
The first known inhabitants were the Majos (or Mahos), a
subgroup of the Guanches—indigenous peoples of Berber (Amazigh) descent
from North Africa. Archaeological evidence suggests settlement around
1000 BC (or at least 2,000 years ago). They called the island Tyterogaka
(or Tytheroygaka), possibly meaning “the one that is all ochre,”
referring to its reddish tones before later eruptions. Living in caves
or simple dry-stone settlements, the Majos were primarily pastoralists
herding sheep and goats, supplemented by fishing, gathering, and limited
agriculture. Their society was organized into one kingdom under
hereditary rulers, with social strata based on wealth and livestock.
They practiced a matrilineal system in some aspects, animist beliefs
tied to sun and moon worship, and cultural traditions including singing,
dancing, and hospitality.
Ancient visitors may have included
Phoenicians, Greeks, or Carthaginians, though evidence is scant. The
Romans knew the islands as the Insulae Fortunatae (“Fortunate Isles”);
Pliny the Elder described Lanzarote and neighboring Fuerteventura as the
“purple islands” in his Naturalis Historia (1st century AD), likely due
to orchilla lichen used for dye. Roman trade artifacts (potsherds) from
the 1st–4th centuries AD have been found, indicating contact but no
permanent settlements. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the
islands faded from records until Arab mariners arrived around 999 AD,
naming Lanzarote al-Djezir al-Khalida (“the eternal island”).
European Rediscovery and Spanish Conquest (14th–15th Centuries)
European interest revived in the early 14th century. In 1312 (or circa
1336), Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello (also spelled Lanzarotto
Malocello) reached the island, built a fort near modern Teguise (at
Montaña de Guanapay), and gave it the name Lanzarote. Early Castilian
slaving raids in the 1380s–1390s captured hundreds of Majos, weakening
the population.
The decisive moment came in 1402. Norman-French
explorer Jean de Béthencourt (backed by Castilian King Henry III) and
his lieutenant Gadifer de la Salle landed at Playas de Papagayo in the
south. The island’s flat, open terrain offered little natural defense.
The Majos’ king, Guadarfía (or Guardafia), surrendered relatively
quickly after initial resistance. The first permanent European
settlement, El Rubicón (in Yaiza municipality), was established that
year, complete with a cathedral dedicated to Saint Martial of
Limoges—the starting point for the broader Castilian conquest of the
Canary Islands (completed with Tenerife’s fall in 1496). Many Majos were
enslaved or killed; survivors were baptized, and the indigenous
population was largely decimated or assimilated through intermarriage.
Béthencourt was named “King of the Canary Islands” under Castilian
overlordship. The lordship later passed to the Herrera family (1477
onward), who held feudal rights until the late 18th century. Lanzarote
became Spain’s first overseas colony in the modern sense, serving as a
testing ground for tactics later used in the Americas.
Colonial
Era, Pirate Raids, and Economic Struggles (16th–17th Centuries)
Under
Spanish rule, Lanzarote supplied wheat and cereals to the more populous
central islands (Tenerife, Gran Canaria), though this often caused local
famines as landowners prioritized exports. The economy also relied on
orchilla dye (from lichen) and later cochineal insects for red dye.
Population remained small and vulnerable.
Pirate attacks plagued the
island for centuries. French, Moroccan, English, and Barbary corsairs
raided repeatedly. Notable events include the 1586 Ottoman incursion by
Murat Reis and the devastating 1618 Barbary pirate assault (led by Tabac
Arráez), which captured around 900–1,000 inhabitants from Teguise; many
hid in volcanic caves like Cueva de los Verdes. Fortifications such as
Castillo de Santa Bárbara were built in response. These raids, combined
with earlier slaving and disease, further eroded the indigenous legacy.
The Great Volcanic Eruptions and Transformation (18th–19th
Centuries)
The 18th century brought the most dramatic natural
upheaval. From September 1, 1730, to April 16, 1736, a series of
basaltic fissure eruptions created 32 new volcanoes across 18 km of the
island, covering roughly one-quarter of Lanzarote in lava and ash.
Eleven villages were destroyed, fertile land buried, and the landscape
forever altered—forming the Montañas del Fuego (Fire Mountains) and what
is now Timanfaya National Park. Priest Andrés Lorenzo Curbelo chronicled
the terror in real time. A smaller eruption followed in 1824.
Initially catastrophic, the volcanic ash (picón) eventually proved a
boon. Islanders developed innovative dry-farming techniques in areas
like La Geria: digging pits through the ash to reach soil, planting
vines (especially Malvasía), and surrounding them with semicircular
stone walls (zocos) for wind protection and moisture retention. This
created the island’s iconic vineyards, still productive today.
Droughts and famines triggered mass emigration—to Cuba, the Americas,
and even Spanish settlements in Texas (e.g., contributors to San Antonio
de Béxar). Feudalism waned; the capital shifted from Teguise to Arrecife
in 1852. Lanzarote joined Las Palmas province in 1927.
20th
Century to Present: Tourism, César Manrique, and Sustainability
The
early 20th century saw continued poverty, fishing growth, and
emigration, especially under Franco. Post-World War II, tourism emerged
as a lifeline. The island’s unique volcanic scenery, beaches, and mild
climate drew visitors, but unchecked development threatened its
character.
César Manrique (1919–1992), a Lanzarote-born artist and
architect, returned in 1966 and became the island’s visionary guardian.
Through works like Jameos del Agua (a converted lava tube with a natural
auditorium, pool, and gardens), Fundación César Manrique, and Mirador
del Río, he championed “art-nature harmony.” He influenced strict
building codes to preserve traditional whitewashed architecture with
green or blue trim, preventing high-rises and promoting low-impact
tourism. His legacy helped Lanzarote earn UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
status in 1993 (the entire island and surrounding Chinijo Archipelago)
and later UNESCO Global Geopark recognition. The airport was renamed
César Manrique-Lanzarote Airport in 2019.
Today, Lanzarote
(population ~163,000 as of recent estimates, capital Arrecife) thrives
on tourism while protecting its volcanic heritage, vineyards, and
biodiversity. Challenges persist—coastal development scandals in the
2000s nearly jeopardized UNESCO status—but the island remains a symbol
of human adaptation to a harsh yet beautiful environment. From Majos
caves to Manrique’s artistic interventions, Lanzarote’s history is one
of constant reinvention amid fire, wind, and waves.
Size, Shape, and General Layout
The island measures approximately
60 km from north to south and 25 km from west to east at its widest
point, covering an area of 845.94 km² (making it the fourth-largest of
the Canary Islands). Its coastline stretches about 191–213 km (sources
vary slightly), predominantly rocky and volcanic, with only around 10 km
of sandy beaches and 16.5 km of beachfront overall. The shape is
somewhat irregular and elongated along a northeast-southwest axis,
resembling an oval with two prominent “appendages” formed by ancient
volcanic massifs at the northern and southern ends.
Geological
Origins and Volcanic History
Lanzarote is a classic oceanic volcanic
island, one of the oldest in the Canary chain (along with
Fuerteventura). It began forming around 15 million years ago during the
Miocene as an underwater seamount that eventually emerged. Volcanism
progressed in distinct phases:
Shield-building stage (Miocene):
Two main shield volcanoes formed the foundational massifs—Los Ajaches in
the south (starting ~15.6–12 Ma) and Famara in the north (~10.2–3.8 Ma).
These eventually merged into a single island around 4 million years ago.
Erosional pause and rejuvenation: After a period of erosion (roughly
3.9–2.7 Ma), younger volcanic activity resumed along northeast-southwest
fissures. This produced strombolian-style eruptions of basaltic lava and
scoria cones.
Recent major eruptions: The most dramatic event
occurred between 1730 and 1736, when over 30 new volcanoes erupted in
the central-western region, covering nearly a quarter of the island
(~200 km²) in lava flows and ash. This created the iconic malpaís
(“badlands”) lava fields. A smaller eruption followed in 1824.
Geothermal heat from these events persists today—fissures in the
Montañas del Fuego can still reach temperatures high enough to grill
food.
The island’s rocks are primarily basaltic, with extensive
lava flows of varying morphologies (pahoehoe, aa, etc.), tephra
deposits, and volcanic cones. Erosion has sculpted U-shaped valleys and
steep cliffs on the older massifs.
Topography and Major Landforms
Lanzarote is the least mountainous of the major Canary Islands, with a
subdued, mature volcanic topography. Its highest point is Peñas del
Chache (671 m / 2,201 ft) in the northern Famara massif. Key features
include:
Northern Massif (Famara-Guatifay): A dramatic 23 km-long
plateau and cliff system (Risco de Famara) rising 500–600 m, with sheer
west-facing drops to the sea. This eroded shield volcano exposes ancient
alkali basalts interspersed with sediments. La Corona volcano (a
Pleistocene cone, ~21,000 years old) sits atop it and feeds the famous
7.7 km lava tube system (including the Cueva de los Verdes, part of the
world’s longest underwater volcanic tunnel, the “Tunnel of Atlantis”).
Southern Massif (Ajaches/Los Ajaches): Older and more eroded, reaching
608 m, with deep ravines and cliffs. It forms the backdrop for pristine
southern beaches like those in the Papagayo area.
Central and Western
Volcanic Zones: Low-lying plains dominated by recent lava fields,
scattered monogenetic cones, and extensive malpaís. The standout is
Timanfaya National Park (51 km², established 1974), often called Spain’s
only fully geological national park. Its Montañas del Fuego (“Fire
Mountains”) feature colorful volcanic cones (reds, blacks, ochres),
craters, and solidified lava flows that create a stark, lunar-like
landscape.
El Jable Desert: A unique central feature south of
Famara—a wide valley filled with marine-origin sands (from seashells and
beaches, blown inland by trade winds). This semi-desert ecosystem
contrasts sharply with the surrounding volcanic terrain and supports
specialized dry-farming techniques and endemic flora/fauna.
Coastline
and Beaches: Highly varied—dramatic rocky cliffs and lava platforms in
the north and west contrast with golden-sand beaches (e.g., 6 km Famara
beach backed by cliffs, popular for surfing) and sheltered coves in the
south and east. Black-sand beaches also occur near volcanic areas. There
are no permanent rivers or large bodies of freshwater due to the arid
conditions.
Climate and Its Influence on Geography
Lanzarote
has a subtropical hot desert climate (Köppen BWh), often called the
“Island of Eternal Spring.” Average annual temperatures hover around
21°C, with minimal seasonal variation (e.g., January highs ~22°C, August
~30°C). Rainfall is extremely low (~100–150 mm/year, mostly in winter),
and the island enjoys nearly 3,000 hours of sunshine annually.
Persistent northeast trade winds and sea breezes moderate temperatures
but enhance aridity and wind erosion.
This climate shapes the
landscape: sparse vegetation (succulents, lichens, and adapted shrubs),
prominent calcrete (caliche) formations, and wind-sculpted dunes in El
Jable. It has also driven unique human adaptations, such as the zocos
(volcanic ash pits) in the La Geria wine region, where vines are planted
in black volcanic soil to capture scarce moisture and protect roots from
wind.
Associated Features and Human-Geographic Notes
To the
north lies the Chinijo Archipelago (including inhabited La Graciosa and
uninhabited islets like Montaña Clara and Alegranza)—volcanic remnants
that form one of Europe’s largest marine reserves. Underwater, Lanzarote
sits on the Canary Ridge with insular platforms, submarine canyons, and
evidence of ancient landslides.
Overall, Lanzarote’s geography is
defined by its raw volcanic heritage: a mosaic of craters, lava tubes
(such as the illuminated Cueva de los Verdes), malpaís badlands, cliffs,
sandy deserts, and contrasting beaches—all preserved remarkably well and
protected for their scientific and scenic value.