Ternopil oblast, Ukraine

Ternopil region (Ukrainian Ternopil region), colloquial. Ternopilshchyna (Ukrainian: Ternopilshchyna) is an administrative-territorial unit in western Ukraine, founded on December 4, 1939. The regional center is the city of Ternopil. Until August 9, 1944, it was called the Tarnopol region (the center is the city of Tarnopol).

In historical and ethnographic terms, it covers the eastern part of Galicia, the western part of Podolia and southern Volhynia. Geographically, it is located on the Podolsk Upland; the southern border of the Ternopil region runs along the Dniester River, the eastern border - along the Zbruch River.

On the territory of the region there is the longest karst cave in the world Optimisticheskaya with a length of 260 kilometers, as well as one of the "Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine" - the Dniester Canyon. Also, the Ternopil region is known for the Pochaev Lavra, the miraculous Icon of the Mother of God in Zarvanytsia and the spiritual center of Zarvanytsia. By the number of castles (34) Ternopil region ranks first in Ukraine.

Area - 13,824 km² (2.29% of the territory of Ukraine), 1,038,923 inhabitants (December 1, 2020), including 474,992 urban people (44.18%) and 599,931 rural people (55.82%). There are 18 cities, 17 urban settlements, 1022 rural settlements, 3 districts (until July 17, 2020 - 17 districts), 580 village councils in the region. The national composition of the population, according to the 1970 census: Ukrainians - 96.1%, Russians - 2.3%, Poles - 1%, Jews - 0.5%.

 

Cities

Cities
Ternopil
Kremenets
Chertkov or Chortkov

 

Attractions

On the territory of the Ternopil region there are: 426 archeological monuments (of which 6 are of national importance), 1673 historical monuments (of which 1 is of national importance), 1315 monuments of architecture and urban planning (of which 180 are of national importance), 164 monuments of monumental art. The List of historical settlements of Ukraine, approved by the Decree of the Cabinet of Ministers of Ukraine dated July 26, 2001 No. 878, includes 30 settlements of the Ternopil region: Berezhany, Borshchiv, Buchach, Vyshnevets, Grimailov, Husyatyn, Zheleznye, Zalishchyky, Zbarazh, Potok, Kozova, Kopychintsy, Koropets, Kremenets, Lanovtsy, Mill-Podolskaya, Mikulintsy, Monastyriska, Pidvolochisk, Podgaytsy, Pochaiv, Skala-Podolskaya, Skalat, Terebovlya, Ternopil, Tolstoy, Khorostkov, Chortkiv, Shumskoye.

There are 962 cemeteries in the region, 14 are closed. There are burial places for Jews, Poles, Czechs, Slovaks, Austrians, Germans and other nationalities. There are many graves of participants in the hostilities of the period 1941-1944 on the territory of the region. There are 5 burials (tombs, chapels, necropolises and mausoleums) of the 17th-20th centuries, included in the state register of national and cultural heritage: the Chapel of the Mikhailovsky family in the city cemetery of the city of Chortkov, the Sapigs' Tomb (XVIII century) in the village of Bilche-Zolotoe, the Sapigs' Tomb ( XVIII century) in the village of Pilatkovtsy, the tomb of Marcelina Darovskaya (XVII-XVIII centuries) in the village of Yazlovets, the Poninsky Mausoleum (XIX century) in the village of Nyrkov and the Jewish necropolis of the XV-XX centuries in the town of Podgaitsy.

About 85 wooden churches are concentrated on the territory of the Ternopil region, 2 more churches - a church from the village of Sokolov, Buchatsky district and a church from the village of Zelenoe, Gusyatinsky district, as well as a wooden bell tower from the village of Kut-Tovstoye, Husyatinsky district, were transferred to the skansens of Lviv and Kiev.

Tourism
The main tourist sites now are the National Natural Parks "Dniester Canyon" and "Kremenets Mountains", the Kremenets-Pochaev Historical and Cultural Reserve and the National Reserve "Castles of the Ternopil Region", the cities of Ternopil, Chortkiv, Berezhany, Buchach, Borshchiv, the resorts of Husyatin and Mikulintsy, with. Zarvanitsa, Terebovlya district.

According to the register of the State Agency of Ukraine for Tourism and Resorts in the region in 2012, 123 tourism enterprises operated: 23 tour operators and 100 travel agencies. In 2009-2012, enterprises engaged in tourism activities provided services to about two million people, including 600 thousand people for domestic tourism and 200 thousand foreign tourists. Excursion services were provided to 700 thousand people. The number of employees employed in tourism and related industries in the Ternopil region is tens of thousands of people. Since 2006, the newspaper Tourism and Recreation has been published in Ternopil.

 

Physical and geographical characteristics

Geographical position

Ternopil region is located in the west of Ukraine. It borders in the north with Rivne, in the east - with Khmelnytsky, in the south - with Chernivtsi, in the southwest - with Ivano-Frankivsk and in the northwest - with Lviv regions of Ukraine. Territory - 13,823 km² (2.29% of the territory of Ukraine).

The northernmost settlement of the region is the village of Peremorovka, Kremenets district. There are two westernmost here - these are the villages of Shaybovka and Dulyaby of the Ternopil region. And at the same time, the most southern and eastern settlement is the village of Okopy (Ternopil region) of the Chortkovsky district.

 

Relief

The region is located within the Podolsk Upland, the extreme northwestern part is on the plains of Lesser Polissya. The relief of the region is elevated plateau-like with a general slope from north to south. The amplitude of absolute heights exceeds 300 m, the maximum height is 443 m (in the Berezhany district near the village of Mechischev on the border with Ivano-Frankivsk region), the minimum is 116 m (in the southeast). The relief of the extreme north-western part of the region is low-lying hilly, absolute heights are 210-250 m. Flat and hilly areas predominate in the central part (Ternopil plateau). Separately, the Tovtr region (6–12 km wide and 380–400 m high) is singled out, crossing the central part of the region from the northwest to the southeast. In the north of the region are the Kremenets mountains (heights up to 408 m), in the extreme south-west - Opole (heights 360-400 m). The relief of Transnistria is hilly forest, deeply cut by canyon-like river valleys, gullies and ravines; absolute heights are 120–170 m. Karst landforms predominate in the southeast.

Geological structure and minerals
The territory of the Ternopil region is located on the Volyn-Podolsk plate of the East European platform. At a depth of 1500-3000 meters lies the Precambrian crystalline basement. From above it is covered with sedimentary rocks.

The oldest deposits that come to the surface of the region are the rocks of the Upper Silurian (in the Dniester valley, downstream from the village of Dniester - and to Zbruch). They are represented by dolomites, dolomitic marls, limestones, mudstones and siltstones. Devonian rocks lie on the Silurian rocks and are found west of the village of Dnestrovskoye in the Dniester valley, as well as in the valleys of its tributaries (Golden Linden, Strypa, Seret, Koropets, Nichlava). They are represented by dolomites, limestones, red sandstones, clays and mudstones.

From the Mesozoic period in the Ternopil region, Jurassic and Cretaceous rocks have an exit to the surface. In particular, rocks of the Jurassic period are found in the southwestern part of the region, as well as in the valleys of the Dniester and its tributaries (Zolotaya Lypa and Koropets). They are represented by clays, mudstones, sandstones, dolomites, limestones and conglomerates. The rocks of the Cretaceous system are most common in the Lesser Polissya, as well as in the river valleys of the Pripyat, Zolotaya Linden, Koropets, and the upper reaches of the Seret and Strypa. These are limestones, sandstones, marls, chalk, chalk-like limestones.

The largest area of the Ternopil region is covered by Cenozoic rocks. Breeds from all its periods are presented. The rocks of the Paleogene do not have a significant thickness and occur in the valleys of Viliya and Goryn. These are sands, sandstones and marls. The most common deposits in the Ternopil region are the rocks of the Lower Neogene. They are represented by sands, clays, sandstones, limestones, gypsums, marls and brown coal.

Three geomorphological regions can be distinguished in the region: Lesser Polissya, Podolia and Opole.

Maloye Polissya is represented by denudation flat-undulating, slightly undulating and, in some places, stepped plains. The glacier was moving towards them. There are sandy hills - "manes". In some places there are remnant hills and depressions of karst origin.

Most of the territory of Podolia is occupied by loess plateaus. In the north and in the middle part, the river valleys are slightly incised here - up to 80-100 meters. In the south, the river valleys are much more dissected - up to 150 meters or more. In the southern part - Transnistria - karst landforms are quite common: caves, lakes, leuko- and dish-like depressions. Here, ravines and deeply incised canyon-like river valleys are also widely distributed.

The watershed structural-denudation upland, slightly transformed by a heap of loess deposits, occupies the territory of the Kremenets mountains and Medobory. In the Kremenets mountains there are many ledges, depressions, ravines, ravine-like valleys and mountains-outliers. Tovtrovy ridge consists of limestone hills and ridges with significant ledges on the south side.

In the Ternopil region there are significant reserves of building mineral raw materials (limestone, chalk, marl, gypsum, quartz sand, sandstone, brick-tile clay, loam, gravel-pebble materials). There are also peat reserves and small deposits of brown coal. There are significant reserves of mineral medicinal waters that can be used for diseases of the internal organs, the musculoskeletal system and other diseases. Sources of hydrocarbonate, chloride, hydrogen sulfide and sulfate waters have been explored.

 

Soils and land resources

The soils of the Ternopil region were formed as a result of the interaction of the parent rock (subsoil), climate, vegetation, and microorganisms. The bases of soil formation of rocks in the region are loess and loess-like loams, limestones, clays, and alluvial deposits. These rocks on the territory with flat relief and forest-steppe vegetation became the basis for the formation of different types of soils.

The largest area in the region (about 72%) is occupied by forest-steppe podzolized soils:
chernozems
light gray
gray forest
dark gray

The most common are podzolized chernozems. They occupy the interfluve of the Strip and Seret rivers and the gentle slopes of the hills. They are distinguished by deep humus content: the humus layer has a depth of 83-90 cm, humus coloring is also observed in the parent rock, the humus content in the upper horizon is 3.6-3.9%.

Of the total area of the land fund, which is 1382.4 thousand hectares, 85% are lands used for agriculture. The plowed area is 64%. Arable land in the structure of agricultural land is 84.2% (about 890 thousand hectares), which is one of the highest rates in Ukraine.

 

Hydrography

120 rivers flow through the territory of the region, each more than 10 km long. They belong to the basins of the Dniester (Golden Linden, Koropets, Strypa, Dzhurin, Seret, Nichlava, Zbruch, Rotten, Secret) and Pripyat (Goryn, Gorynka, Ikva, Zherd, Zhirak). The Dniester flows in the south along the border with the Ivano-Frankivsk and Chernivtsi regions. Rivers are fed by rain, snow and groundwater. On the territory of the region there are about 270 ponds and reservoirs, including part of the Dniester reservoir. On the Dzhurin River there is the largest flat waterfall in Ukraine - Dzhurinsky (Chervonogradsky).

Recreational resources
About 200 thousand hectares of landscape areas of the region (15% of the total area) are of recreational importance. There are more than 400 territories and objects of the natural reserve fund in the Ternopil region, including the Medobory reserve, 89 reserves, including 15 of state importance, 308 natural monuments, including 12 of state importance, 18 parks - monuments of landscape art, of which 4 state importance.

The main objects of sightseeing tourism are the Tovtrovy Ridge, the Kremenets Mountains, the Dniester Canyon, karst caves (among them the largest cave in Europe - Optimisticheskaya).

 

History

Traces of human existence on the territory of the Ternopil region belong to the Paleolithic. Layer III at the Middle Paleolithic site Veliky Glybochek 1 has a thermoluminescent date of 175 ± 13 kyr ago. The Buglov site belongs to the Middle Paleolithic. On the outskirts of the city of Kremenets, on the slope of Mount Kulichivka, on the right bank of the Ikva River, there is the late Paleolithic archaeological site Kulichivka.

Near the village of Petrikov, a paired burial of the Bronze Age was found, belonging to the Vysotsky culture dating back to 1100-600 BC.

In the cave of Verteba, a Paleolithic settlement of Bilche-Zolotoe, two settlements of the Trypillia culture, burial mounds of the early Scythians (VI-V centuries BC) were found.

The Eastern Slavs, who inhabited the modern territory of Ukraine, formed a large association of tribes in the 4th century, known as the Ants.

In the 9th-13th centuries, the Zbruch cult center was located in Medobory on the banks of the Zbruch River, which had a complex structure and consisted of three sanctuary towns (Bokhit, Zvenigorod, Govda) on the right bank of the Zbruch and, possibly, one sanctuary on the left bank of the Zbruch (Ivankovtsy , Zamchishche tract).

Most of the territory of the Ternopil region, together with Lviv and Ivano-Frankivsk, is part of the historical region of Galicia. This region was part of Kievan Rus, Volyn, Terebovl, Galicia and Galicia-Volyn principalities, and since the XIV century it was part of Poland, the Commonwealth (1349-1772), Austria (the kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria, 1772-1918), Russia (1809-1815), Poland (1918-1939), USSR (1939-1941), under German occupation (1941-1944), CCCP (1944-1991).

Most of the Kremenets region (the Pochaev Lavra is located on its territory) fully or partially belongs to the historical region of Volyn. These lands were part of the Volyn province of the Russian Empire since 1795 and were ceded to Poland in 1921 under the Treaty of Riga.

Ternopil region has always been and remains an agrarian region. However, with the beginning of industrialization in the second half of the 19th century, 8 steam and 680 small water mills, 170 alcohol and breweries, the number of which increased to 390 in 1910, worked on the territory of the modern Ternopil region. century. In 1939, there were about 1,700 enterprises in the Ternopil region, which employed only about 8,800 workers.

Until August 9, 1944, it was called the Tarnopol region (the center is the city of Tarnopol).

Having survived the destruction of the Great Patriotic War, the Ternopil region has developed its agro-industrial potential in the post-war years. New branches of industry arose: mechanical engineering, the chemical industry, instrument making, the building materials industry, and others. Ternopil has become one of the industrial and cultural centers of Ukraine.

 

Agricultural sector

The agricultural sector is the leading branch of the economy of the Ternopil region. Its share in the gross output of the region is over 60%. The agrarian sector of the Ternopil region produces 3% of the all-Ukrainian agricultural products; sugar and alcohol - more than 10%. At present, there are 1018 thousand hectares of agricultural land, including 834 thousand hectares of arable land - 0.82 hectares per inhabitant; 9307 tractors, 2547 grain combines (16 tractors per 1000 hectares of arable land, 7 combines per 1000 hectares of grain). 78.3 thousand people work, or 28% of all those employed in social production. After the reform of the agrarian sector, 578 agricultural enterprises were created, including 297 private-lease ones, 247 economic companies, 14 cooperatives, 8 state-owned ones, 12 other forms, 721 peasant farms, and 25 service cooperatives.

In the Ternopil region, the grain product and sugar-beet subcomplexes have the largest share. The grain product sub-complex unites 432 thousand hectares of grain and leguminous crops, 15 grain receiving points, over 250 mills and groats, almost 150 bakeries and workshops. The sugar beet subcomplex includes 9 sugar factories with a total production capacity of 35 thousand tons per day, as well as over 500 sugar beet farms with a total area of 78 thousand hectares. Since 1997, the region's farms have suffered losses from the sale of raw sugar. Most sugar factories have reduced sugar production due to lack of raw materials.

 

Industry

In the structure of industrial production in the Ternopil region, the food industry, mechanical engineering, and light industry have the largest share. In the structure of production of consumer goods, the share of food products is 71%. In general, 270 industrial enterprises operate in the region, and 347 small industrial enterprises also operate.

The decisive role in the industry of the region is played by the city of Ternopil. Vatra JSC, Orion and Saturn radio plants, and a car repair plant are located here. The light industry is represented by Texterno OJSC, a clothing and haberdashery factory; food industry - sugar, two bakeries, two breweries, a dairy, a meat-packing plant. Among the enterprises of the construction industry, a factory of reinforced concrete structures, a brick, asphalt concrete and porcelain factories stand out. There are also woodworking enterprises (furniture factory) and chemical industry (pharmaceutical factory).

 

Social problems

Since 2008, Ternopil region has consistently recorded the lowest level of wages among all regions of Ukraine and the highest level of officially registered unemployment.

 

Culture

There are 1927 institutions of culture and art in the Ternopil region, including 927 club-type cultural institutions and 927 libraries, 52 schools of aesthetic education, 4 state museums, two theaters, a regional philharmonic society, 2 higher educational institutions of 1-3 degrees of accreditation, a regional methodological center of folk creativity and the regional communal educational and methodological center. On the territory of the Ternopil region is one of the most revered monasteries of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church - the Pochaev Lavra.

 

Ecology

An analysis of the ecological state for 2001-2003 showed that the largest air pollutants in the region belong to the Gusyatinsky gas compressor station, the Ternopil linear department of main gas pipelines, sugar factories, and thermal stations. In industry, most pollutants are emitted into the atmospheric air during the combustion of fuel in thermal units. The largest contribution to the gross emissions of pollutants into the atmospheric air of the Ternopil region was made by enterprises: Ternopil city - 0.902 thousand tons, Gusyatinsky district - 1.344 thousand tons, Kremenets district - 0.954 thousand tons, Ternopil region - 1.317 thousand tons ., Chortkovsky district - 1.211 thousand tons. The highest density of emissions per 1 sq. km. km. was observed in the city of Ternopil - 15.203 tons. About 74% percent (27.139 thousand tons) of all emissions of pollutants in the region were emitted by road transport.

The greatest use of water is carried out from the basins of the rivers Seret, Strypa, Zolotaya Lypa, Horyn. Less water is taken from the basins of the Zbruch, Koropets, Nichlava, and Ikva rivers.

According to the data of 2001-2003, the main pollutants of surface water sources were housing and communal facilities - Chortkovsky VUVKG, Monastyryssky, Shumsky, Lanovetsky, Borshevsky, Zborovsky combines of public utilities, Kremenets housing and communal complex, Berezhany State Enterprise "Kommunalshchik", etc.; enterprises of the dairy and food industry - OJSC "Vyshnivetsky Cheese Plant", OJSC "Monastyryssky Dairy Plant", OJSC "Berezhany Butter Plant", OJSC "Agrofood", Zalishchitsky Cannery, healthcare facilities, education, etc. Not all settlements of Ternopilskaya are provided with wastewater treatment plants waters, dilapidated many existing treatment facilities.

More than a third of arable land is subject to water erosion, and in Berezhany and Zborovsky districts, it manifests itself on almost two-thirds of arable land, and in Zbarazhsky, Lanovetsky, Monastyrissky, Podvolochinsky, Shumsky districts, more than half of the sown areas are subject to washout. As a result of the Chernobyl accident in the Ternopil region, 18.7 thousand hectares of agricultural land remain partially contaminated with cesium-137, of which 17824 hectares (94.6%) are arable land, 709 hectares (3.8%) are meadows and pastures, 316 ha (1.6%) are perennial plantations.