Glamis Castle

Glamis Castle

Location: Forfar, Angus  Map

Tel. 01307 840393
Open:
Mar- Oct: 10:30am- 4:30pm daily
Nov& Dec: 10am- 6pm daily
Last tour at 4pm

Official site

 

Description

Glamis Castle, nestled in the fertile Strathmore Valley of Angus, Scotland, is a majestic baronial stronghold that blends medieval grit with fairy-tale elegance. Renowned as the family seat of the Earls of Strathmore and Kinghorne, it has stood for over 600 years, evolving from a defensive tower into a grand residence steeped in history, legend, and royal connections. Its striking turrets and lush grounds, set against the rolling Angus countryside, make it one of Scotland’s most picturesque castles, while its ties to Shakespeare’s Macbeth and the late Queen Mother add layers of mystique. Managed by the Strathmore family, Glamis remains a living estate, open to visitors for its architecture, gardens, and tales of intrigue.

 

Historical Overview

Origins and the Lyon Family (14th–15th Century)

Glamis Castle’s roots trace to 1372, when Sir John Lyon, Thane of Glamis, received the lands from King Robert II as a reward for loyalty. Lyon, who married the king’s daughter Joanna, began transforming an existing hunting lodge into a fortified tower house by 1376, leveraging the site’s defensibility amid Angus’ open plains. The Lyon family, rising from minor nobility, cemented their status through this union, with Sir John appointed Chamberlain of Scotland—only to be killed in a 1383 duel over a land dispute.

His son, Sir John Lyon II, completed the initial L-plan tower, a sturdy keep suited to the era’s clan feuds and English border raids. In 1404, the family’s fortunes grew when Sir John’s widow, Elizabeth Graham, secured a royal charter confirming Glamis as a barony. The castle saw little action during the Wars of Scottish Independence, its inland position sparing it from coastal sieges, but it served as a refuge during regional unrest, like the 1452 Battle of Brechin nearby.

 

Renaissance Expansion and Royal Ties (16th–17th Century)

The Lyons, ennobled as Lords Glamis in 1445, expanded the castle under Patrick, 1st Lord Glamis (d. 1459). By the 16th century, John, 6th Lord Glamis (d. 1528), added wings and a chapel, reflecting Renaissance influences. His widow, Janet Douglas, faced tragedy in 1537 when James V, suspecting her of treason and witchcraft (partly due to her Douglas clan ties), seized Glamis, burned her at the stake in Edinburgh, and held the castle until 1543. Her son, John, 7th Lord, reclaimed it, beginning a restoration.

In 1606, Patrick, 9th Lord Glamis, was created Earl of Kinghorne by James VI, reflecting the family’s loyalty post-Union of the Crowns. He rebuilt Glamis in baronial style, adding turrets and a grand staircase, transforming it into a noble residence. During the Civil War (1640s), Glamis sheltered Royalists, including James Graham, Marquis of Montrose, who stayed in 1645 before his defeat at Philiphaugh. Cromwellian troops briefly occupied it in 1651, damaging interiors but sparing the structure.

 

The Strathmore Era and Modern History (18th Century–Present)

In 1677, Patrick, 3rd Earl of Kinghorne, bought the earldom of Strathmore, renaming the title Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne. The family weathered the Jacobite Rebellions, remaining neutral in 1715 and 1745, thus avoiding Eilean Donan’s fate. The 18th century saw Glamis landscaped into a romantic estate, with Patrick, 7th Earl (d. 1789), hiring Capability Brown’s disciple, Thomas White, to design gardens.

The 19th century brought prosperity. Thomas, 11th Earl (d. 1865), modernized Glamis, adding Victorian flourishes like the Dining Room’s plasterwork. His grandson, Claude, 13th Earl (d. 1904), fathered Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, born at Glamis in 1900 (though possibly in London). Elizabeth, later Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, spent her childhood there, marrying the future George VI in 1923. Glamis became a royal retreat, hosting the royal family during World War II, when it served briefly as a convalescent home for soldiers.

The 14th Earl, Timothy Bowes-Lyon (d. 1972), opened Glamis to the public in the 1950s to fund upkeep, a tradition continued by his son, Michael, 18th Earl (d. 1987), and grandson, Simon, 19th Earl (b. 1986). On August 4, 2000, the Queen Mother’s 100th birthday was celebrated at Glamis, her last visit before her 2002 death. As of April 11, 2025, the castle remains a family home and tourist site, managed by the Strathmore Estates, with the 19th Earl residing in a private wing.

 

Architectural Description

Glamis Castle is an L-shaped tower house expanded into a baronial mansion, its pinkish sandstone façade adorned with turrets, crow-stepped gables, and conical roofs. Covering 14,000 square meters (including grounds), it blends medieval defensiveness with Renaissance and Victorian elegance.

 

Central Tower

The central tower, built in 1376, is the castle’s core:
Rising 30 meters (100 feet) over five floors, its 3-meter-thick walls of local sandstone feature narrow slits, originally for archers. The ground floor, a vaulted cellar, stored provisions, with a well (now sealed) beneath.
The Great Hall, on the first floor, spans 15 x 8 meters, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, oak paneling added in the 17th century, and a minstrels’ gallery. A massive fireplace, carved with the Lyon arms, warms the space, once hosting feasts.
Upper floors include the King Malcolm Room, where Malcolm II allegedly died in 1034 (a legend, as no evidence supports this), with 17th-century plasterwork and a four-poster bed. The tower’s conical cap, rebuilt in 1606, crowns a battlemented walkway.

 

Wings and Extensions

Flanking wings, added from the 15th century, create an asymmetrical courtyard:
The East Wing houses the Chapel, built c. 1500, with a painted ceiling of biblical scenes (restored 1688) and a pew for the Strathmore family. Its oak altar and stained glass evoke sanctity amid the castle’s martial past.
The West Wing, expanded in 1606, includes the Drawing Room, a 17-meter-long salon with gilded cornices, French furniture, and portraits by Joshua Reynolds. Victorian upgrades added a bay window overlooking the Italian Garden.
The Dining Room, completed in 1850, features ornate plasterwork, a 10-meter oak table, and a chandelier, reflecting 19th-century opulence.

 

Entrance and Defenses

The main entrance, a 17th-century addition, sits beneath a clock tower with a sundial dated 1678. A grand staircase, carved with lions (the Lyon emblem), leads to the Great Hall. Defensive remnants include a dry moat (filled in the 18th century) and a gatehouse, now decorative, with a portcullis slot. The castle’s 100+ rooms, from servants’ quarters to secret passages, weave a labyrinthine layout, with 10 towers punctuating the skyline.

 

Condition and Preservation

Glamis is remarkably intact, its sandstone weathered but sound. The 17th-century reroofing preserved interiors, though Victorian plumbing and 20th-century heating modernized it. Private areas remain unrestored, contrasting the polished public rooms. Maintenance, costing £500,000 yearly, is funded by tourism and events, with recent repairs (2024) addressing storm-damaged turrets.

 

Grounds and Gardens

Glamis’ 65 hectares (160 acres) of grounds are a horticultural and scenic triumph:
Italian Garden: Designed in 1910 by Cecilia Bowes-Lyon, this formal parterre features yew hedges, fountains, and roses, framed by the castle’s silhouette. A central sundial, gifted by George VI, marks time.
Walled Garden: Dating to the 17th century, this 1-hectare plot grows heritage vegetables, apples, and cut flowers, supplying the castle café. Its red-brick walls shelter a Victorian greenhouse.
Pinetum: Planted in the 19th century, this arboretum boasts sequoias, Douglas firs, and a 300-year-old yew, with paths winding past a Gothic fountain.
Nature Trail: A 2-mile loop through parkland reveals Strathmore’s fields, the River Dean, and roe deer habitats, with views to the Sidlaw Hills.
Driveway: A mile-long avenue of lime trees, planted in 1775, leads from Glamis village, its symmetry echoing baronial grandeur.

The grounds host events like the Glamis Proms, with 10,000 attendees enjoying music against the castle backdrop. Accessibility is strong, with paved paths for wheelchairs, though wet grass can challenge mobility.

 

Cultural and Social Significance

Glamis Castle is a cultural icon, rich with history and myth:

Royal Connection: As the Queen Mother’s childhood home and Princess Margaret’s birthplace (1930), Glamis links to Britain’s monarchy. Its royal guestbook includes Queen Victoria (1875) and Elizabeth II (multiple visits).
Shakespeare’s Macbeth: Glamis is tied to the fictional Thane of Glamis in Macbeth, though the historical Macbeth (d. 1057) had no connection. The legend stems from Malcolm II’s supposed murder there, fueling tales of a “Macbeth Room” with ghostly bloodstains (a romantic embellishment).
Ghost Stories: Glamis is Scotland’s “most haunted” castle, with tales of the Grey Lady (Janet Douglas’ spirit), a Monster of Glamis (a deformed heir allegedly hidden in a secret room), and card-playing ghosts in the crypt. These legends, amplified by 19th-century gothic fascination, draw paranormal enthusiasts.
Clan Legacy: The Strathmore family’s 600-year tenure, unbroken despite wars and taxes, embodies Scottish nobility. The castle’s Lyon and Bowes-Lyon artifacts—swords, tapestries, a 14th-century charter—preserve clan pride.
Cultural Events: The Glamis Extravaganza (July) features vintage cars and Highland games, while Christmas markets fill the grounds with lights, tying the castle to Angus’ community.

Its turrets grace postcards, and its interiors inspired Rebecca (1940) sets, cementing Glamis as a romantic archetype.

 

Visiting Glamis Today

Located 5 miles southwest of Forfar off the A94, Glamis is 12 miles north of Dundee (20-minute drive) or 1 hour from Aberdeen. Forfar’s bus (20C) stops at Glamis village, a 1-mile walk to the castle. Free parking fits 300 cars, with overflow for events.

Opening hours (2025):
March 29–October 26: Daily, 10:00 AM–5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM).
November 1–December 14: Weekends only, 10:00 AM–4:00 PM (grounds only weekdays).
Closed December 15–March 28, except for private bookings.

Admission: £16.50 adults, £10 children (5–16), £13 concessions, £45 family (2 adults, 3 children). Guided tours (50 minutes), included in the ticket, explore 10 public rooms, with self-guided garden access. Pre-booking is advised, especially for summer.

The castle offers:
Accessibility: Ground-floor rooms (Dining Room, Crypt) suit wheelchairs via ramps, but upper floors (70 steps) are stairs-only. A virtual tour aids those with mobility issues.
Family Appeal: Kids enjoy ghost tales and a nature trail treasure hunt, though narrow passages need supervision. Dogs are welcome in gardens (leashed, not indoors).
Facilities: The Pavilion Café serves scones and haggis, while the shop stocks Strathmore tartan and Queen Mother memorabilia.

Highlights include the Chapel’s ceiling, the Drawing Room’s grandeur, and garden strolls with Sidlaw vistas. Nearby, Dundee’s V&A Museum or Angus Glens hikes complement a visit.

 

Challenges and Preservation

Glamis faces preservation hurdles:
Upkeep Costs: Maintaining 100+ rooms and 65 hectares costs £1 million yearly, met by tourism, weddings (50 annually), and farming revenue from Strathmore Estates’ 2,000 hectares.
Weather Damage: 2023 storms cracked turrets, with repairs ongoing into 2025. Climate-driven rain threatens sandstone, prompting gutter upgrades.
Tourism Balance: 70,000 visitors yearly strain floors and paths, managed by timed entries and restricted private access.
Legends vs. History: Ghost stories boost appeal but overshadow factual narratives, a tension the family navigates in tours.
The Strathmore Trust, formed 1990, ensures longevity, with solar panels (2022) cutting energy costs. The castle’s private ownership keeps it a home, not a museum, preserving its soul.

 

Legends and fairy tales

The most famous legend about the castle is that of the Monster of Glamis, a hideously deformed child born to the Bowes-Lyon family. According to legend, the monster was imprisoned in the castle all his life and his chamber was walled up after his death.

An old story tells that once guests staying at Glamis Castle hung towels out of the windows of each room to find the monster's walled-up room. When they looked at the castle from the outside, they noticed that there were no towels hanging out of a number of windows.

The monster legend may have been inspired by the true story of the Ogilvie family. Somewhere in the almost five meter thick walls is the Bone Room. The Ogilvies had once sought protection from their enemies, the Lindsays, in this, but were betrayed and walled up alive.

According to the castle's official website, King Malcolm II was mortally wounded in a nearby battle in 1034 and taken to a royal hunting lodge that stood on the site of the present castle, where Malcolm II also died.

There is a small chapel in the castle that seats 46 people. Castle guides tell visitors that a seat in the chapel is always reserved for the "Gray Lady," a spirit that haunts the castle. According to the guide, the chapel is still used regularly by the Bowes-Lyon family. Despite this, no one is allowed to sit in this seat.

The late Sir David Bowes-Lyon is said to have seen a young woman at one of the castle's windows while taking a late-night stroll on the estate's lawn. He reportedly saw the girl clutching the bars of a window while staring absently out into the night. He was about to speak to the girl when she suddenly disappeared, as if someone had snatched her away from the window.

Earl Beardie was a guest at Glamis Castle. One night, when he was drunk, he asked to play dice. Since it was the Sabbath, his hosts refused him this request. Lord Beardie was so upset he screamed that he was playing with the devil himself. A stranger then appeared at the castle and asked if Lord Beardie wanted to play dice and they started playing in one of the rooms. Later, servants heard screams and curses coming from the room. One of the servants peered through the keyhole, and it is reported that a ray of light shining through the keyhole blinded him. The stranger disappeared. Many visitors reported hearing screams and the clatter of dice, and not a few say the earl still gambles with the devil for his soul.