Middleham Castle

Middleham Castle

Location: North Yorkshire       Map

Constructed: 1190 by Robert Fitzrandolph 3rd Lord of Middleham and Spennithorne
Tel. 01 969 623 899
Open:
Apr- Sept 10am- 6pm daily
Oct- Mar 10am- 4pm Mon- Wed, Sat, Sun
Closed: 1 Jan, 24- 26 Dec

 

Middleham Castle is a medieval fortress situated in North Yorkshire in United Kingdom. Construction of Middleham Castle began in 1190 by the orders of Robert Fitzrandolph 3rd Lord of Middleham and Spennithorne. t was built near the site of an old castle motte. In 1270, the castle passes into the hands of the Neville family, whose most important figure is Richard Neville, the "king maker", a prominent figure in the War of the Two Roses.

 

History

Middleham Castle, situated in the picturesque Wensleydale valley of North Yorkshire, England, is one of the most evocative ruins of a medieval fortress in Britain. Originally constructed in the late 12th century, it evolved from a defensive stronghold into a luxurious residence for powerful noble families. The castle is particularly renowned for its associations with the Neville family during the Wars of the Roses and as the northern base and childhood home of King Richard III. Today, managed by English Heritage, the extensive ruins—including a massive keep, curtain walls, and domestic ranges—offer insights into medieval architecture, politics, and daily life, attracting visitors interested in England's turbulent history.

Foundation and Early Development (11th–13th Centuries)
Evidence of pre-Norman activity in the Middleham area is limited, with the Domesday Book of 1086 recording land held by Gilpatrick under Edward the Confessor. Following the Norman Conquest, William I granted the lands to his cousin Alan Rufus, who likely commissioned the initial castle around 1086. This early structure was an earth-and-timber ringwork on William's Hill, south of the current site, featuring a circular earthwork with timber defenses, a deep ditch (partly water-filled), and an outer bailey. Archaeological remains of these features are still visible today.
The present stone castle began in the late 12th century, with the massive keep—one of the largest in England—likely built in the 1170s. Carved 'waterleaf' capitals in the chapel suggest Yorkshire craftsmanship from that era. In the early 13th century, an eastern tower was added, including a chapel on its upper floor. The castle passed to the Neville family in 1260 when Mary fitz Ranulph married Robert Neville, and their son Ranulph inherited it in 1271. Ranulph probably added the curtain wall around the keep in the early 14th century, though major expansions were delayed as focus shifted to other Neville estates like Raby and Sheriff Hutton.

Expansion and Peak under the Nevilles (14th–15th Centuries)
Ralph Neville, 1st Earl of Westmorland, inherited Middleham in 1388 and initiated significant improvements, possibly starting in 1397. These included raising the curtain walls to create first-floor residential ranges on three sides, heightening towers, and converting the north-east tower into a gatehouse around 1400. The work emphasized luxurious accommodation over defense, with additional latrines and chambers. By 1410, the castle hosted Henry IV, indicating completion. Architect John Lewyn, known for Bolton Castle, may have been involved.
Further enhancements came under Richard Neville, 5th Earl of Salisbury, in the early 15th century, including heightening the keep's east side and work on the gatehouse and chapel tower. The castle's zenith occurred under his son, Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick ('the Kingmaker'), who transformed it into a palatial residence. Warwick's expansions in the mid-15th century included refined domestic facilities, making it a center of power during the Wars of the Roses.

Architectural Developments
Middleham's architecture reflects its evolution from fortress to residence. The 12th-century keep, a hall-keep type with basement storage and a single upper storey, measures impressively large and features a central dividing wall creating parallel chambers: kitchens and services on the ground floor, a great hall, chambers, and chapel on the first. The curtain walls, initially low and thin (added c. 1300), were raised in the 14th–15th centuries to include lodgings with fireplaces, garderobes, and a grand south-side suite connected by a covered bridge to the keep. Unique features include the absence of early stone defenses (relying on a ditch and timber), and later additions like the gatehouse and viewing platform. The design prioritized comfort, with numerous well-appointed rooms, distinguishing it from more militaristic castles.

Key Figures and Events during the Wars of the Roses (Mid-15th Century)
Middleham played a pivotal role in the Wars of the Roses. Warwick supported Edward IV's ascension in 1461, hosting him at the castle that year. In 1464, defeated Lancastrians were executed there. By 1469, Warwick rebelled, capturing and imprisoning Edward IV at Middleham for weeks before his escape. Warwick was defeated at Barnet in 1471.
Richard III (then Duke of Gloucester) joined Warwick's household at Middleham in 1465 at age 13 for training, staying until 1468. After Warwick's death, Richard acquired the castle through marriage to Anne Neville in 1472. Their son, Edward of Middleham, was born there c. 1474 and died in 1484, reportedly in a nursery in the keep's south-west tower. Richard used it as a base, founding a collegiate church in the town and residing there before Bosworth in 1485.

Decline and Tudor Period (Late 15th–16th Centuries)
After Richard III's defeat at Bosworth in 1485, Middleham became Crown property under Henry VII. Minor upkeep occurred in 1531, but a 1538 survey noted decay: crumbling roofs, no portcullis, and ivy overgrowth. Antiquary John Leland described it as grand c. 1540, but it gradually deteriorated.

Post-Medieval History (17th–19th Centuries)
In 1604, James I sold it to Sir Henry Lindley; it passed to the Loftus family in 1643. During the Civil War (1642–51), Parliament ordered its slighting in 1647, but this may not have occurred; it was garrisoned in the 1650s with 30 men and used for prisoners. By the Restoration in 1660, it was sold to the Wood family and likely repurposed for farming or industry. In 1779, it was considered for housing French prisoners but saw further decay, with stone quarried for local buildings. In 1859, Colonel Thomas Wood built a wall to prevent further ruin and cleared debris. Sold to Samuel Cunliffe Lister in 1889, conservation began under architect Walter Brierley from 1897.

Current Status
Placed under guardianship in 1926 and gifted to the state in 1930, Middleham is now managed by English Heritage as a Scheduled Ancient Monument. Visitors can explore the ruins, including a viewing platform with Wensleydale views, exhibits like a replica of the 15th-century Middleham Jewel (a sapphire pendant found nearby), and remnants of an oven and horse mill. Its significance lies in its architectural evolution, Neville and Richard III connections, and role in the Wars of the Roses, making it a standout medieval site.

 

Architecture

Overall Layout and Site Planning
The castle follows a compact rectangular plan, characteristic of concentric castles, with a central keep enclosed by a curtain wall forming the inner bailey. This layout measures approximately 105 feet north-south and 78 feet east-west for the keep, with the surrounding walls creating a roughly square enclosure. The site was chosen for its strategic position guarding the road from Richmond to Skipton and overlooking Coverdale, though it was less defensible than the original motte-and-bailey site to the southwest. A deep ditch originally surrounded the castle on the north and east sides, with probable timber defenses; remnants of the ditch are still visible.
The main entrance, originally through an eastern gatehouse into an outer bailey (now largely vanished and built over by the town), was relocated around 1400 to a passage through the north-east curtain wall tower. This gatehouse was heightened in the 1440s, adding a third floor with turrets. First-floor bridges, likely timber, connected the curtain wall's residential ranges to the keep on the south and west sides, facilitating movement without descending to ground level. The outer court to the east included ancillary buildings, but only foundations remain. The design prioritized both defense and domestic convenience, with service buildings and lodgings integrated against the inner face of the curtain wall.

The Keep: Core of the Castle
The keep, constructed between 1170 and 1190, is one of the largest Norman keeps in England, standing about 49 feet (15 meters) high, 78 feet (24 meters) wide, and 105 feet (32 meters) long. It is a massive rectangular structure divided internally by a central spine wall running north-south, creating two main sections on each floor. Built of coursed rubble stone, it features corner turrets and mid-wall turrets, adding to its imposing silhouette. The exterior walls are thick and battered at the base for stability, with minimal ornamentation in keeping with Norman austerity.
Access to the keep is via an external stone staircase on the east side, leading to a first-floor entrance protected by a guardroom recess halfway up, complete with drawbar sockets and evidence of double doors for security. Beyond the entrance lies a vaulted ante-chamber, which opens into the great hall—a large space lit by high windows in the north and east walls, likely with a raised dais at the north end for the lord's table. The hall was remodeled in the 15th century: its ceiling was raised, and a clerestory with large perpendicular-style windows was added on the east and west sides to improve lighting and possibly accommodate an upper floor for additional lodgings.
The ground floor consists of two large vaulted chambers used for storage and kitchens, with two wells (still visible) at each end for water supply. A fine stone spiral staircase in the south-east turret ascends from the basement to the roof, with a narrow side staircase providing access to the battlements; around 1400, a branch of steps was added, leading to two small private chambers overlooking the southern gardens. The north-west section housed private accommodations, including a great chamber with a fireplace, two cupboards, and a wash basin, plus an inner chamber with latrine access via the west-side turrets. The south-west turret is sometimes called the "Prince's Tower," though historical records refer to it as the "Rounde Towre."
The keep's roof and battlements are lost, and internal floors have collapsed, but the structure retains much of its height and grandeur, with repaired spiral stairs in the south-east turret offering views of the surrounding area.

Curtain Walls, Towers, and Defensive Elements
The curtain wall, added around 1300, forms a concentric ring around the keep, creating a compact defensive perimeter. Constructed of stone with small buttresses for support, it is largely intact on the north, west, and south sides, though the east wall is mostly gone. The walls were heightened around 1400, reaching up to two or three storeys in places, and incorporate arrow slits for archery defense. Corner towers and mid-wall projections provided flanking fire and housed chambers.
The north-east gatehouse tower, remodeled in the 14th century, features diagonal turrets and an arched entrance with machicolations—openings in the stonework for dropping missiles on attackers. This defensive focus waned as the castle became more residential, but the walls retained their military appearance. The curtain wall's inner face supported ground-floor lodgings and service buildings, with first-floor chambers added in the 15th century for the Neville family, guests, and staff.

Chapel and Domestic Ranges
A three-storey chapel tower was added to the east side of the keep in the early 13th century. The second floor housed the chapel proper, with stone vaulting and a piscina (basin for washing sacred vessels) in the south wall; it was accessible from the keep's ante-chamber. The first floor served clergy quarters, and the ground floor was for storage.
Domestic ranges along the curtain wall included impressive halls and outbuildings. The south range featured a bakehouse inserted in the 16th century and a later circular horse-mill (possibly 18th or 19th century) for grinding grain. The west range had a pastry kitchen added around the same time. These ranges included private chambers, kitchens with vast fireplaces for feasts, and storage areas, transforming the castle into a comfortable residence. Timber bridges linked these to the keep, enhancing internal connectivity.

Architectural Styles and Evolution
Middleham's architecture began in the Norman style with the late-12th-century keep—characterized by thick walls, rounded arches, and minimal decoration—emphasizing defense. The 13th-century curtain wall and chapel tower introduced early Gothic elements, such as pointed arches and vaulting. By the 15th century, under the Nevilles (particularly Ralph Neville and his mason Henry Lewyn), the castle saw significant modifications in the Perpendicular Gothic style: heightened walls, larger windows for light, and luxurious domestic additions like clerestories and private chambers. Features such as turrets and windows are comparable to those at nearby Bolton Castle, also by Lewyn. This evolution reflects a shift from fortress to palace, with comforts like fireplaces, latrines, and gardens.

Materials and Construction Techniques
The castle is built primarily from local stone, including coursed rubble for walls and ashlar for finer details like doorways and windows. Timber was used for early defenses, roofs, and bridges, though little survives. Construction involved massive stone masonry with vaulted ceilings for strength, and later additions used buttresses for support. The keep's battered base and turrets enhanced stability, while modifications like the clerestory required skilled stonework to integrate new heights without compromising the structure.

Notable Features and Historical Modifications
Key features include the spiral staircases, vast fireplaces, and the horse-mill, which highlight adaptations for daily life. Post-1485, after Richard III's death, the castle passed to royal hands and was briefly garrisoned during the English Civil War (1654–1655) but saw no action. In the 16th century, proposals for conversion to a manor house were abandoned, leading to decay. Stones were quarried for village buildings in the 17th century, causing extensive damage. Modern restorations by English Heritage include stabilizing walls and adding viewing platforms, but the site remains roofless and floorless in many areas.

Current State as Ruins
Today, Middleham Castle's ruins evoke its former might, with the keep's walls standing nearly full height on three sides and the curtain wall providing a sense of enclosure. Managed by English Heritage since 1984, it is a Grade I listed building, open to visitors who can explore via modern staircases and paths. The site offers panoramic views and interpretive displays, preserving one of northern England's most significant medieval architectural ensembles.