Devon, sometimes referred to as Devonshire (though this name is quite
rare today), is one of the largest counties in South West England,
forming a key part of the region's picturesque West Country. What makes
it truly distinctive among English counties is its two separate
coastlines: the southern shore borders the English Channel, while the
northern coast faces the Bristol Channel and Celtic Sea. These
shorelines are dotted with charming resort towns, historic harbours, and
excellent surfing beaches that attract visitors year-round.
The
county is home to two stunning national parks — Dartmoor in the heart of
Devon, with its wild granite tors, ancient woodlands, and free-roaming
ponies, and Exmoor (shared with Somerset) in the north, featuring
dramatic moorland, heather-covered hills, and red deer. Devon also
includes the remote island of Lundy in the Bristol Channel, a haven for
wildlife and seabirds.
The name "Devon" originates from the ancient
Celtic tribe known as the Dumnonii, who inhabited much of south-western
Britain during the Roman invasion. The term reflects their homeland of
deep valleys and rugged terrain.
Historically, Devon has been a major
centre for mining. Tin has been extracted from the granite of Dartmoor
since prehistoric times, while copper and other metals were mined in
surrounding areas. In the 19th century, the Devon Great Consols mine
near Tavistock became one of the world's most productive copper
operations, yielding hundreds of thousands of tons of ore between the
1840s and early 1900s — it was widely regarded as the largest copper
mine globally during its peak, later shifting to arsenic production as
copper prices fell.
Devonport, now integrated into the city of
Plymouth, has deep ties to the Royal Navy. In 1588, legendary explorer
Sir Francis Drake famously finished his game of bowls on the Hoe before
sailing out to help defeat the Spanish Armada. Today, Devonport remains
the largest naval base in Western Europe, underscoring the county's
enduring maritime heritage.
The northern Exmoor coastline boasts the
highest cliffs in southern England and Wales. The dramatic "hog's-back"
hills of Exmoor National Park roll down to the sea, reaching their most
impressive point at Great Hangman — a 318-metre (1,043 ft) hill with a
sheer cliff face of around 250 metres (820 ft). Nearby, the Little
Hangman rises to 218 metres (716 ft). These awe-inspiring features are
best appreciated from the water, such as on boat trips departing from
Ilfracombe, or occasionally from Lynmouth, or even via the scenic ferry
route from Penarth in South Wales to Ilfracombe that passes right by
this majestic stretch.
Hartland Point marks the south-western
boundary of the Bristol Channel, where it transitions into the open
Atlantic Ocean (the northern limit being St Anne's Head in
Pembrokeshire, about 48 miles/77 km away).
Geologically, Devon is
extraordinary — many of its rocks date from the Devonian Period
(approximately 419 to 359 million years ago), a time of ancient tropical
seas, early forests, and the "Age of Fishes." The county's name was
given to this entire geological period because of the wealth of
distinctive Devonian rocks studied here, including slates, sandstones,
and limestones.
Notable geological highlights include:
The
Jurassic Coast (shared with Dorset), England's only natural UNESCO World
Heritage Site, featuring fossil-rich layers of chalk, clay, and
limestone along the south-east coast, revealing millions of years of
Earth's history.
Dawlish Sea Wall and surrounding areas, showcasing
striking wind-blown "Young Red Sandstone" deposits alongside ancient
250-million-year-old conglomerate rocks like Langstone Rock.
Fine
limestone exposures around Torquay.
Exeter Castle, dramatically built
atop the remains of an ancient volcano, where volcanic rocks were
incorporated into Roman-era structures.
North Devon's Bideford
Bay, with its sweeping westward-facing curve into the Atlantic, ranks
among the UK's premier surfing destinations — comparable to parts of
North Cornwall and the Gower Peninsula in South Wales. Popular spots
include the expansive white-sand beaches at Woolacombe, Putsborough,
Croyde, Saunton, and the uniquely named Westward Ho! (one of the few
place names worldwide with an exclamation mark). Croyde stands out for
its fast, hollow waves at low tide, often compared to top breaks like
Fistral in Cornwall. However, it can become very crowded in summer, with
limited parking and high fees — nearby Woolacombe and Saunton generally
offer more space and easier access.
Exeter
Devon's historic county town, Exeter traces its roots back
to Roman times when it was known as Isca Dumnoniorum. It boasts a
magnificent medieval cathedral (one of the finest in England), a vibrant
university, and a rich heritage as one of the country's most important
cities during the Middle Ages. Today, it's a lively cultural hub with
excellent shopping, museums, and a mix of ancient Roman walls alongside
modern amenities.
Plymouth
As Devon's largest city and a major
urban center, Plymouth has deep connections to the Royal Navy. It serves
as the home of the largest naval base in Western Europe and features a
storied maritime history, including its role as the departure point for
the Mayflower in 1620. The waterfront, historic Barbican area, and
modern aquarium make it a fascinating blend of naval heritage and
contemporary life.
Dartmoor (Dartmoor National Park)
This
expansive upland area dominates the heart of Devon and forms one of the
country's most iconic national parks. Characterized by rugged granite
tors, vast open moorland, ancient stone circles, and free-roaming
Dartmoor ponies, it's a paradise for hikers, nature lovers, and those
seeking solitude. Key moorland settlements include Okehampton (with its
historic castle ruins and military history), Princetown (home to the
famous high-security prison), and Tavistock (a pretty market town with
medieval roots). The moor's weather can turn dramatically bleak and
misty in winter, but its surrounding small towns and villages provide
cozy, scenic bases for exploration year-round.
English Riviera
and South Devon (Torbay area: Brixham, Paignton, Torquay)
This sunny
coastal stretch, often called the English Riviera, lies between Exeter
and Plymouth and is famous for its sheltered Tor Bay, sandy beaches, and
unusually mild microclimate that supports subtropical plants like palm
trees. The area gained popularity in Victorian times as a genteel
holiday destination, earning comparisons to the French Riviera. Torquay
stands out as the vibrant hub, with its sparkling harbor, white Georgian
buildings, and cultural ties (famously parodied in the TV comedy Fawlty
Towers). Nearby Paignton offers family-friendly beaches and a
traditional pier, while Brixham remains a working fishing port known for
fresh seafood and colorful harbor scenes. The region's dramatic cliffs,
coves, and UNESCO Global Geopark status add geological interest to the
seaside charm.
North Devon (Barnstaple, Ilfracombe)
Lying west
of the River Exe and stretching toward the Bristol Channel, this largely
rural region features rolling farmland, traditional market towns, and a
rugged northern coastline. Barnstaple serves as the main hub, with its
historic pannier market and riverside setting. Coastal resorts like
Ilfracombe offer dramatic cliffs, beaches, and surfing spots. A portion
of Exmoor National Park spills into the area, bringing spectacular
moorland scenery, high coastal hills, and wildlife.
East Devon
(Exmouth, Seaton, Sidmouth)
East of the River Exe and bordered by
Lyme Bay to the south, this area combines attractive coastal holiday
resorts with classic inland English market towns. The coast features red
sandstone cliffs and part of the famous Jurassic Coast World Heritage
Site, while towns like Sidmouth are known for elegant Regency
architecture and gardens. Exmouth provides a lively seaside vibe, and
inland spots often retain traditional industries alongside charming high
streets and local markets.
Cities
Exeter — The historic cathedral and university city,
proudly serving as Devon's county town.
Plymouth — Devon's biggest
city, with its strong naval legacy and bustling port atmosphere.
Principal Towns
3. Barnstaple — North Devon's largest town, a
historic market center with a welcoming rural feel.
4. Exmouth — A
popular East Devon seaside resort with a long promenade and views across
the Exe Estuary.
5. Newton Abbot — A key market town with good
transport links and proximity to both coast and moor.
6. Tiverton — A
traditional Mid Devon town with canal heritage and historic buildings.
7. Torquay — The heart of the English Riviera, blending stunning white
architecture with the blue sea, and forever linked to British comedy
through Fawlty Towers.
Dartmoor National Park — A vast, wild expanse of moorland right in
the county's center, offering endless walking opportunities and unique
prehistoric sites.
Exmoor National Park — While mostly in neighboring
Somerset, its eastern fringes extend into Devon, providing breathtaking
coastal and moorland scenery.
Lundy — A remote island in the Bristol
Channel, managed as a wildlife reserve with dramatic cliffs, seabirds,
and a peaceful, car-free environment.
By Train
Exeter is well-connected by rail, with two primary
stations in the city centre: Exeter St Davids, which handles the
majority of long-distance and intercity services, and Exeter Central,
which is slightly closer to the high street and key attractions. The two
stations are conveniently linked by a pleasant 10-15 minute walk along
well-signposted paths, making it easy to transfer if needed.
If
you're travelling from Cornwall, the scenic route crosses the iconic
Royal Albert Bridge at Saltash, designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. As
the train glides over this impressive Victorian engineering marvel,
you'll be treated to stunning panoramic views down the River Tamar
estuary, with Plymouth on one side and the Cornish countryside on the
other.
Travellers coming from London and the south typically arrive
via the Waterloo to Exeter line (via Salisbury and Yeovil), which winds
through the rolling hills and picturesque villages of east Devon before
reaching Exeter St Davids.
From the north (including Bristol, the
Midlands, northern England, and Scotland), most services use the Great
Western Main Line. Some trains stop at Tiverton Parkway (about 10 miles
from Tiverton town, with good bus connections), then continue directly
to Exeter St Davids. The route then proceeds south-west through south
Devon, passing Newton Abbot (where the branch line to the English
Riviera towns of Torquay and Paignton splits off), before heading on to
Plymouth and deeper into Cornwall.
Direct trains also operate from
northern England and the Scottish Lowlands to destinations further west,
such as Paignton, Plymouth, and even Penzance.
By Road
The M5
motorway is the principal high-speed route into Devon. Approaching from
the north-east (Bristol, Birmingham, or beyond), it ends at Exeter,
where it seamlessly connects to the dual-carriageway A38 expressway
towards Plymouth and Cornwall. From Exeter, the A30 dual carriageway
branches north-west, serving destinations in north Devon (via
Okehampton) before continuing into Cornwall.
Be aware that the M5
frequently experiences heavy congestion during peak holiday seasons,
especially summer weekends and school holidays. A single incident can
cause lengthy delays across large sections. If driving, consider setting
off very early in the morning or travelling in the evening/night to
avoid the worst of the traffic buildup.
Coach services provide an
alternative: National Express operates long-distance routes from London
and other major cities, with stops at Honiton Road Park & Ride on the
outskirts of Exeter as well as the central bus station, before
continuing to Plymouth. Budget operator FlixBus also serves Exeter and
Plymouth city centres with competitive fares.
For those driving into
Exeter itself, the city offers several efficient park-and-ride sites on
the main approach roads—details can be found in the National Park and
Ride Directory.
By Boat
Ferry services offer a relaxed way to
reach the region. Brittany Ferries operates car and passenger routes to
Plymouth from Roscoff and Saint-Malo in France, as well as from
Santander in northern Spain—ideal for those combining a continental road
trip with a Devon visit.
Alternatively, Poole in Dorset
(approximately 80 miles/130 km from Exeter by road) has sailings with
Brittany Ferries from Cherbourg (France) and Condor Ferries from Jersey
and Guernsey in the Channel Islands. Other cross-Channel ports, such as
Portsmouth and Dover, are within a 3-5 hour drive of most parts of
Devon.
By Air
Exeter International Airport (EXT) provides
convenient scheduled flights from various UK and near-European
destinations. Year-round direct routes include Aberdeen, Belfast City,
Dublin, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Guernsey, Jersey, Newcastle upon Tyne,
Alicante, and Málaga. During the peak summer season, the schedule
expands significantly with additional charter and scheduled flights,
primarily catering to outbound holidaymakers heading to Mediterranean
resorts, though inbound travellers can also take advantage of these
options. The airport is compact and easy to navigate, located about 6
miles east of the city centre with good taxi, bus, and car hire
connections.
By Car
Devon boasts some truly picturesque but challenging driving
conditions, especially in the southern regions. Areas around Blackpool
Sands (the beautiful shingle beach near Dartmouth, not to be confused
with the famous seaside resort in northern England) and the vicinity of
Torcross feature particularly narrow lanes. These roads are often long,
winding, and lined with high hedges, making them tricky to navigate.
It's strongly recommended to carefully plan your route in advance —
especially if you're driving a larger vehicle such as a motorhome,
campervan, or SUV. Satellite navigation systems frequently suggest these
minor roads, which can lead to difficult or even impassable sections for
bigger vehicles. Smaller cars or vans are generally manageable, but
anything oversized may prove impossible or require significant detours
onto wider main routes.
By Bus
For the latest and most
reliable bus information across Devon, check the Devon County Council's
Travel Devon website, which provides up-to-date timetables, routes, and
service details. Alternatively, use Traveline to plan journeys, check
schedules, and explore connections between towns and rural areas.
Dorset and East Devon Coast — Better known as the Jurassic Coast,
this stunning stretch is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. It
showcases dramatic cliffs and reveals 185 million years of Earth's
geological history through its layered rocks, fossils, and unique
landscapes.
Lundy Island — This remote island sits in the Bristol
Channel and serves as a vital conservation area. It boasts England's
only statutory Marine Nature Reserve, offering rich wildlife, including
seabirds, seals, and diverse marine life — a paradise for nature lovers
and those seeking tranquility.
Buckfast Abbey in Buckfastleigh — A
serene and historic Benedictine monastery renowned for its beautiful
architecture, peaceful gardens, and the famous Buckfast bees that
produce the well-known tonic wine.
Crealy Great Adventure Park
(Sidmouth Road, Exeter, EX5 1DR; phone +44 1395 233200) — One of Devon's
premier family attractions, this top-rated theme park delivers thrilling
rides, interactive experiences, and family-friendly entertainment. It
also has a sister park in Cornwall for even more adventure options.
Fly Fishing (phone +44 1363 82786) — Devon's clear rivers are home to
thriving populations of brown trout, sea trout, and salmon. Professional
guides offer equipment hire, expert instruction, and guided trips
suitable for beginners through to experienced anglers. For those
focusing on Dartmoor and South Devon, check out Flyfishing Devon for
specialist services.
North Devon Coastal Road (primarily the A39,
with sections including A399 and A3123) — A spectacular scenic drive
that runs from Bridgwater through to places like Lynton, Ilfracombe,
Woolacombe, Bideford, and Clovelly (note that some points extend into
Somerset but the route is continuous). This route showcases charming old
towns, dramatic hairpin bends at Porlock and Lynton, golden sandy
beaches at Woolacombe, and the delightful car-free, pedestrianized
village of Clovelly with its cobbled streets and harbor views — perfect
for a leisurely touring drive.
Cycling — Devon offers fantastic
options for cyclists of all levels. Tackle the full Devon Coast to Coast
route — a challenging 99-mile (about 159 km) National Cycle Network
journey from the northern coastal town of Ilfracombe to the historic
port of Plymouth. It incorporates the scenic Tarka Trail and Drake’s
Trail, following former railway lines with tunnels, viaducts, and
stunning countryside. For easier family-friendly rides, try gentle paths
along the River Exe from Exeter, the peaceful Stover Trail from Newton
Abbot, or sections of the Tarka Trail starting from Barnstaple. Road
cyclists can enjoy scenic circuits around Dartmoor, while mountain
bikers will find thrilling trails across the moorland.
Cricket —
Catch a match with Devon County Cricket Club (Devon CCC), who compete in
the National Counties Cricket Championship (the modern name for the
former Minor Counties level, below first-class cricket). The team
doesn't have a fixed home ground but plays at various venues throughout
the county, offering a great chance to experience traditional English
village and county cricket in authentic settings.
Devon is renowned for its outstanding local food and drink scene,
celebrating fresh, seasonal produce from the region's stunning coastline
and rich countryside.
South Devon Crab
South Devon crab is
widely considered some of the finest in the world. Its sweet, delicate
meat comes from the clean, nutrient-rich waters along the South Devon
coast. The crab is caught using sustainable potting methods that are
environmentally responsible, minimising by-catch and allowing undersized
or soft-shelled crabs to be returned to the sea alive. This approach has
earned recognition from leading marine conservation organisations.
The fresh crab is a highlight on menus across the county, appearing in
many excellent restaurants, harbourside cafés, and traditional pubs.
Whether served simply dressed, in salads, sandwiches, or as part of a
luxurious seafood platter, it’s a true taste of the Devon coast.
The Traditional Cream Tea
Few experiences capture the essence of
Devon quite like a proper cream tea. This beloved treat consists of
freshly baked scones, strawberry jam, thick clotted cream, and a pot of
tea. The tradition is said to date back over 1,000 years to Tavistock
Abbey in Devon, although neighbouring counties have their own claims to
its origins.
The most famous (and fiercely debated) difference
between Devon and Cornwall lies in the assembly: in Devon, the correct
order is cream first, then jam; in Cornwall, it’s jam first, then cream.
Another delightful variation replaces the classic scone with a “split” —
a soft, lightly sweetened yeasted bun.
A cream tea is the perfect way
to pause and enjoy the slower pace of Devon life, whether in a cosy
tearoom, a garden café, or overlooking the sea.
Hocking's Ice
Cream
In North Devon, Hocking's Dairy Cream Ices is a much-loved
institution. This family business, founded in the 1930s, continues to
delight visitors each season from March to October.
Their instantly
recognisable cream-and-maroon vans can be found at classic coastal and
countryside locations including Bideford Quay, Appledore Quay,
Torrington Commons, Westward Ho!, Northam Burrows, and Ilfracombe
seafront. Traditionally famous for rich, creamy vanilla, they now offer
a selection of additional flavours from a dedicated van. The signature
finishing touch? A generous dollop of clotted cream on top — pure North
Devon decadence.
The Classic Pasty
The pasty is a hearty,
portable favourite of the West Country, with both Devon and Cornwall
proudly claiming its heritage. This hand-held pastry consists of a
circle of shortcrust dough filled with raw ingredients — traditionally
beef, sliced potato, swede (rutabaga), and onion — then folded, crimped
along the edge to seal, and baked until golden.
While the Cornish
pasty has protected status with specific rules (including a side crimp),
Devon pasties often feature a distinctive top crimp and subtle regional
variations. Whatever the origin, it remains an ideal, satisfying meal
for a day of exploring the countryside or coast.
Discover More
For anyone passionate about food, Food Drink Devon is an excellent
resource. Their website offers comprehensive information about the
county’s best producers, restaurants, farmers’ markets, food festivals,
and more — all focused on championing quality, local sourcing, and
sustainability.
Whether you’re enjoying crab fresh from the boat,
debating the “correct” way to eat a cream tea, savouring a legendary ice
cream, or biting into a proper pasty, Devon’s food and drink scene is a
celebration of fresh, honest, and utterly delicious West Country
flavours.
Devon offers a wonderful selection of traditional and local alcoholic
drinks that reflect its rich rural heritage and craftsmanship.
Cider
Devon is famous for its authentic farm-made cider, especially
the classic Devon scrumpy. This traditional style is often cloudy and
vibrant, resembling bright orange juice with small pieces of apple
floating throughout. It's produced using locally grown Devon apples,
traditional cider mills, and old-fashioned presses. Historically,
scrumpy was crafted from windfall apples—those that had fallen naturally
to the ground. These apples were typically bruised, not ideal for eating
or cooking, and often slightly underripe, giving the cider a sharper,
drier, and more tart flavour profile. The natural impurities picked up
from the soil actually aided the fermentation process. True Devon
scrumpy is usually quite potent in alcohol content, so it's wise to
approach it with caution if you're not accustomed to it — it can be
surprisingly strong and, in larger quantities, may have a laxative
effect.
Beer
The county boasts an excellent craft beer scene,
supported by a thriving community of microbreweries. Devon is home to
numerous small-scale independent breweries producing high-quality real
ales and other beers. The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) provides
detailed information and directories covering breweries across different
areas of the county, including South Devon, North Devon, Exeter, and
East Devon — making it easy for visitors to discover local favourites
and enjoy fresh, characterful pints.
Gin
One of Devon's most
iconic spirits is Plymouth Gin, a protected style with a long history
dating back to 1793. The Original Strength version is bottled at 41.2%
ABV, offering a distinctive taste that's noticeably smoother and less
dry compared to the more widespread London Dry Gin. This difference
comes from a higher proportion of root botanicals (such as orris and
angelica), which lend an earthy depth, along with a more rounded and
gentle juniper character. The brand also produces a Navy Strength
variant at 57% ABV (equivalent to 100° English proof). This higher
strength follows the historic Royal Navy requirement — it ensured that
if gin spilled on gunpowder aboard ship, the powder would still ignite,
preventing any compromise to the ship's defences.
Wine
Devon
has a growing reputation for quality English wine, thanks to its mild
climate and sheltered valleys. A standout example is the renowned
Sharpham wine (now produced at Sandridge Barton, the home of Sharpham
Wine), located near the River Dart in a picturesque part of South Devon
(close to areas like Stoke Gabriel and formerly associated with
Paignton/Totnes). The estate features south-facing vineyards and
produces a range of elegant still and sparkling wines from varieties
well-suited to the local terroir.
Overall, Devon remains a very safe destination for both residents and visitors. Crime rates are significantly lower than the national average for England, largely due to the county's predominantly rural character and dispersed population. That said, like anywhere else, certain urban or more deprived areas in some towns may experience higher levels of petty crime. In rural pubs, newcomers or "outsiders" might occasionally draw curious glances or light-hearted attention from locals, but this is typically friendly and no different from what you might encounter in other parts of the UK.
Prehistoric Devon
Devon's history begins as one of the earliest
settled regions in Great Britain following the end of the last Ice Age.
Evidence from Kents Cavern in Torbay indicates occupation by modern
humans as far back as the Paleolithic era, making it one of England's
oldest known human sites. By the Mesolithic period around 6000 BC,
hunter-gatherers inhabited the area, particularly Dartmoor, where they
cleared oak forests that eventually transformed into the moorland
landscape seen today. The Neolithic era, starting around 3500 BC,
brought farming communities who constructed monumental structures using
local granite. Dartmoor boasts over 500 Neolithic sites, including
burial mounds (cairns), stone rows, circles, and settlements like
Grimspound. These stone rows, some extending over 3 km, often terminate
in cairns or standing stones, representing some of England's oldest
surviving architecture. The region's acidic soils and minimal
agricultural disturbance have preserved this archaeological record
exceptionally well.
The Bronze Age saw the emergence of a trading
port at Mount Batten in Plymouth Sound, facilitating exchange networks.
Recent discoveries in 2022 at Sherford near Plymouth uncovered Ice Age
animal remains, including woolly mammoths, reindeer, rhinoceros, bison,
wolves, and hyenas, dating back 30,000–60,000 years, underscoring
Devon's long environmental and human history. The Iron Age was dominated
by the Celtic Dumnonii tribe, from whom the county's name
derives—possibly meaning "deep valley dwellers" or followers of the god
Dumnonos. Unlike neighboring tribes, the Dumnonii did not mint coins,
though artifacts from the Dobunni have been found, suggesting trade
links.
Roman Occupation
Roman influence arrived with the
invasion of Britain in AD 43, but Devon remained on the fringes of the
empire, less Romanized than eastern counties like Somerset and Dorset.
The Dumnonii initially retained autonomy, but by AD 55, Roman military
forces established a presence, including a naval base at Topsham and a
legionary fortress at Exeter (Isca Dumnoniorum). The Second Augustan
Legion occupied Exeter for about two decades, building barracks,
workshops, and a bathhouse before relocating to Caerleon in Wales.
Civilian administration followed, with a forum, basilica, and stone
walls encircling the city, which served as a regional hub for over three
centuries.
Beyond Exeter, Roman traces are sparse, particularly west
of the River Exe, where native life continued largely unchanged. Smaller
forts dotted the landscape, and pagan shrines (nemetons) gave rise to
place names like those in the Nymet villages. High-status locals resided
in fortified homesteads known as "rounds," while eastern Devon featured
luxurious villas, such as the one at Holcombe near Uplyme, complete with
mosaics and hypocaust heating. Roman roads, often cobbled, connected key
sites, but the western uplands like Dartmoor saw little imperial
development. The region supplied resources like tin, but overall, Roman
control was more military than cultural.
Post-Roman and Early
Medieval Periods
With the Roman withdrawal around AD 410, the
independent kingdom of Dumnonia emerged, encompassing Devon, Cornwall,
and parts of Somerset. Named after the Dumnonii, it preserved elements
of Roman episcopal structures, with bishops mentioned in correspondence
from figures like Aldhelm in AD 705. Kings such as Constantine
(criticized by Gildas in the 6th century) and Geraint ruled an itinerant
court, possibly centered at sites like High Peak near Sidmouth or
Celliwig in Cornwall. Exeter, known as Caer Uisc, became an
ecclesiastical focal point, with early Christian cemeteries.
Anglo-Saxon expansion from Wessex began in the 7th century, accelerating
under King Ine (r. 688–726). By 682, the West Saxons controlled Exeter,
and Dumnonia's territories shrank rapidly. Ine's victory over Geraint in
710 marked a turning point, leading to the anglicization of place names
and the establishment of Anglo-Saxon institutions. Devon integrated into
the emerging English kingdom, with its bishopric initially under
Winchester, then Sherborne (AD 705), Crediton (AD 910), and finally
Exeter (AD 1050) under Bishop Leofric.
Viking raids intensified in
the 9th century, prompting defenses like Alfred the Great's burhs
(fortified towns) at Exeter, Lydford, Halwell, and Pilton. Key battles
included the defeat of a Cornish-Danish force at Callington in 832 and
the repulse of Danish sieges at Exeter in 894 and 1001. Norse influences
linger in names like Lundy Island, and Devon forces played roles in
wider conflicts, such as the Battle of Cynwit in 878.
Norman
Conquest and High Medieval Era
The Norman Conquest of 1066 brought
significant changes. William the Conqueror besieged Exeter in 1068,
overcoming an 18-day resistance before granting honorable terms. Large
estates, or "honours," were redistributed to Norman lords, including
Plympton, Okehampton, Barnstaple, Totnes, and Harberton. Families like
the Redvers (later Courtenays) held the Earldom of Devon from 1335,
while the Hollands briefly claimed the Dukedom of Exeter in the 14th
century. Notable figures included ancestors of Walter Raleigh, who held
lands from this period.
Devon had its own sheriff, initially
hereditary, and participated in national conflicts. During King
Stephen's anarchy (1135–1154), castles like Plympton and Rougemont in
Exeter were strongholds. The 14th–15th centuries saw French coastal
raids, Black Death devastation in 1348 (leading to abandoned villages
like Hound Tor), and Wars of the Roses skirmishes between the
Lancastrian Courtenays and Yorkist Bonvilles. Economic growth came from
wool, tin trade, and sheep farming, with Dartmoor and Exmoor as royal
forests until disafforested in 1242 for a fee. Tin mining, dating back
to prehistoric times, flourished under a unique stannary parliament from
the 12th century, which held independent legal authority and met at
Crockern Tor on Dartmoor until the 18th century. Its infamous Lydford
gaol symbolized harsh "Lydford law."
Tudor, Stuart, and Civil War
Periods
The Tudor era highlighted Devon's maritime prowess. Henry VII
faced Perkin Warbeck's rebellion in 1497, with Exeter besieged but
loyal. The Prayer Book Rebellion of 1549 erupted in Sampford Courtenay
over Edward VI's religious reforms, spreading to Cornwall and besieging
Exeter before suppression. Elizabethan explorers like Francis Drake
(Mayor of Plymouth), Humphrey Gilbert, Richard Grenville, and Walter
Raleigh hailed from Devon, with Drake famously playing bowls on Plymouth
Hoe upon sighting the Spanish Armada in 1588.
The Stuart period saw
the Mayflower's departure from Plymouth in 1620, carrying Pilgrims
(though mostly from elsewhere). During the English Civil War
(1642–1651), urban areas like Plymouth and Exeter leaned
Parliamentarian, while rural gentry supported the Royalists. A 1643
neutrality treaty for Devon and Cornwall failed amid skirmishes,
culminating in Parliamentary victories at Dartmouth, Exeter, and
Torrington in 1646. Post-Restoration, the Monmouth Rebellion's aftermath
brought Judge Jeffreys' Bloody Assizes to Exeter in 1685. William of
Orange landed at Brixham in 1688, launching the Glorious Revolution, and
was hosted in Devon en route to London.
Industrial and Victorian
Eras
Devon's economy transitioned during the Industrial Revolution,
though less industrialized than northern England. Agriculture dominated,
with population growth slower than national averages. Mining peaked:
Devon led in tin production until 1300, with Dartmoor operations from
pre-Roman times to the mid-20th century. The 18th-century Devon Great
Consols near Tavistock became Europe's largest copper mine, and tungsten
extraction at Hemerdon supported WWII efforts. Coastal trade and
shipbuilding thrived, but challenges included cold winters (e.g., 1676),
epidemics, and earthquakes (1690 in Barnstaple).
Daniel Defoe's 1720s
tour praised South Devon's fertility but critiqued the north's
barrenness. The Napoleonic Wars saw Dartmoor Prison built for French and
American captives. Victorian growth included naval expansion at
Devonport in Plymouth, making it the county's largest city.
20th
Century and Contemporary Devon
The World Wars profoundly impacted
Devon. Plymouth's naval base was crucial in both conflicts, suffering
heavy bombing during WWII's Blitz, as did Exeter. South Devon served as
a D-Day training ground, with tragic rehearsals at Slapton Sands
claiming hundreds of lives. Post-war rebuilding in the 1960s modernized
cities.
Economic shifts saw declines in farming, fishing, and
traditional mining, offset by tourism's rise, particularly on the
"English Riviera" (Torbay area). National parks at Dartmoor and Exmoor
preserve natural heritage, while coastal storms (e.g., destroying
Hallsands in 1917) highlight vulnerabilities. Modern developments
include new towns like Cranbrook in East Devon, holiday homes in places
like Salcombe, and cultural icons such as clotted cream and cider.
Politically, Devon leans Conservative and Liberal Democrat, with ongoing
urbanization and conservation efforts shaping its future.
Devon is a large ceremonial and non-metropolitan county located in
South West England, forming part of the South West Peninsula (also known
as the Cornish Peninsula). It spans approximately 6,707 square
kilometers (2,590 square miles), making it the fourth-largest ceremonial
county in England and the third-largest geographic county. The county is
bordered by Cornwall to the west (primarily along the River Tamar),
Somerset and Dorset to the east, the Bristol Channel (leading to the
Celtic Sea and Atlantic Ocean) to the north, and the English Channel to
the south. This positioning gives Devon the unique distinction among
English counties of having two separate coastlines, totaling over 500
kilometers in length, with about 65% designated as Heritage Coast. The
administrative county includes districts such as East Devon, Mid Devon,
North Devon, South Hams, Teignbridge, Torridge, West Devon, and the city
of Exeter (the county seat), while the geographic county also
encompasses the unitary authorities of Plymouth and Torbay. Devon's
population is around 1.25 million, concentrated in urban centers like
Exeter, Plymouth, and the Torbay area, but the county remains
predominantly rural.
Devon's landscape is highly varied,
transitioning from high moorlands in the interior to rolling hills,
fertile valleys, and dramatic coastal cliffs. The county's topography is
influenced by its position on a peninsula, with elevation generally
increasing inland from the coasts. Much of the terrain is uneven and
hilly, with the highest land in southern England outside of Derbyshire
found here. Urban areas like Plymouth and Exeter are situated on
relatively flat coastal or riverine plains, surrounded by higher
elevations, while agricultural lands dominate the flatter, gentler
slopes. The southern coastline tends to be flatter, contrasting with the
steeper northern coast.
Topography and Landforms
Devon's
topography features a mix of uplands, plateaus, and lowlands. The
central and northern regions are dominated by high moorlands, including
Dartmoor National Park (entirely within Devon) and the southern portion
of Exmoor National Park (shared with Somerset). Dartmoor is a vast
granite plateau rising to over 600 meters (2,000 feet), characterized by
shallow marshy valleys, thin infertile soils, coarse grasses, heather,
bracken, and distinctive granite tors (isolated weathered rock
formations). Its highest point is High Willhays at 621 meters (2,039
feet), the tallest summit in southern England. This area is used for
rough grazing, reforestation, reservoirs, military training, and
tourism, with prehistoric sites like Drizzlecombe menhir adding
historical depth.
Exmoor, reaching elevations above 480 meters (1,575
feet), offers a similar but more farmland-integrated plateau with rough
grazing and tourism. It features the highest cliffs in southern Britain,
such as Great Hangman (318 meters or 1,043 feet high, with a 250-meter
cliff face) near Combe Martin Bay, and Little Hangman (218 meters or 715
feet). South of Dartmoor, the South Hams district has rolling hills with
fertile soils ideal for farmland, dotted with small towns like
Dartmouth, Ivybridge, Kingsbridge, Salcombe, and Totnes. North Devon is
more rural, with fewer large towns (e.g., Barnstaple, Bideford, Great
Torrington, Ilfracombe) and expansive grasslands. The county's overall
slope is mostly gentle, aiding agriculture, which covers the majority of
land use, though steeper areas influence hydrology and soil
distribution.
Geology
Geologically, Devon is diverse and
significant, giving its name to the Devonian period (395–359 million
years ago). A major dividing line, the Tees–Exe line, runs roughly along
the Bristol to Exeter route, separating southeastern lowlands (gently
dipping sedimentary rocks) from northwestern uplands (igneous and
metamorphic rocks). Key formations include:
Devonian strata:
Sandstones, shales, and limestones in north and south Devon, extending
into Cornwall.
Carboniferous Culm Measures: In northwest Devon,
featuring soft coal and contorted layers, creating a gentler, greener
landscape from Bideford to Bude.
Granite intrusions: Dartmoor forms
part of the Cornubian batholith, the "spine" of the southwestern
peninsula.
Older rocks: Silurian and Ordovician clastics on the south
coast; Precambrian metamorphic rocks on Eddystone Rocks offshore.
Eastern sediments: Permian and Triassic sandstones (red soils), Bunter
pebble beds near Budleigh Salterton, Jurassic rocks in the east,
Cretaceous chalk at Beer Head, and Eocene-Oligocene ball clays and
lignite in the Bovey Basin (formed under ancient tropical forests).
This geology shapes the landscape, from red sandstone cliffs on the
south coast to the granite tors of Dartmoor.
Climate
Devon
experiences a mild oceanic climate moderated by the North Atlantic
Drift, with average January highs around 8°C (46°F) and mild summers
occasionally reaching warmer spells. Rainfall varies significantly: over
2,000 mm (79 inches) annually on Dartmoor and Exmoor, decreasing to
about 750 mm (30 inches) in the southeastern rain shadow near Exeter and
the south coast. Sunshine hours range from under 1,400 on the moors to
over 1,800 on the southeast coast around Brixham and Berry Head, one of
the UK's sunniest spots. Westerly or southwesterly winds dominate, and
high pressure can create foehn wind effects in sheltered areas like
Torbay and Teignmouth, leading to warm, sunny conditions. Snow is rare
except on high ground, and the climate becomes more extreme with
elevation and distance from the sea.
Rivers and Hydrology
Most
rivers in Devon originate from the Dartmoor and Exmoor uplands, flowing
radially outward. Major rivers include:
Northern rivers: Taw and
Torridge, forming an estuary at Bideford Bay.
Southern/southeastern
rivers: Dart, Teign, and Exe (the Exe Estuary marks the western end of
the Jurassic Coast).
Border river: Tamar, the longest in Devon,
rising in the northwest hills and forming much of the Cornwall boundary.
These rivers support diverse ecosystems and have historically
influenced settlement and agriculture.
Coasts
Devon's dual
coastlines are a defining feature. The north coast, facing the Bristol
Channel and Atlantic, includes west-facing beaches like Woolacombe,
Saunton, Westward Ho!, and Croyde, popular for surfing, as well as bays
like Bideford Bay and dramatic points like Hartland Point. The south
coast, on the English Channel, features the Jurassic Coast World
Heritage Site with Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous cliffs, including
red sandstone formations and the coastal railway between Newton Abbot
and the Exe Estuary. Seaside resorts abound, such as Ilfracombe (north),
and Torquay, Paignton, Brixham (south, forming the English Riviera with
its subtropical climate). Picturesque villages like Salcombe, Lynmouth,
and Clovelly dot both coasts. Offshore features include Lundy Island and
Eddystone Rocks. The South West Coast Path traverses the entire
coastline, highlighting its scenic and ecological value.
National
Parks, Protected Areas, and Ecology
Devon hosts two national parks:
Dartmoor (the largest open space in southern England, with granite tors
attracting walkers) and Exmoor (open moorland spanning Devon and
Somerset). Five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (National
Landscapes) cover parts of the county. Ecologically, Devon is rich, with
biodiversity hotspots including rare species like the cirl bunting,
greater horseshoe bat, Jersey tiger moth, sand crocus at Dawlish Warren,
all six native UK reptiles (via reintroductions), and Eurasian beavers
on the River Otter. Wildlife ranges from Dartmoor ponies to bottlenose
dolphins offshore. Ancient Celtic rainforests exist, with plans to plant
over 100,000 trees in northern Devon, including endemic species like the
Devon whitebeam. Forest cover is limited, mostly evergreen and deciduous
woodlands (over 3 meters tall with varying canopy closure), concentrated
in mid-Devon and higher elevations like Dartmoor, while Exmoor has
minimal forests. The Devon Wildlife Trust manages numerous nature
reserves and Sites of Special Scientific Interest. North Devon's UNESCO
Biosphere Reserve, centered on Braunton Burrows, underscores the
county's ecological importance.