Surrey is a picturesque county in South East England, lying directly
southwest of London. It is the smallest
of the traditional Home Counties and is widely recognized as the
wealthiest county in Great Britain when measured by wealth per square
kilometre. Additionally, Surrey boasts the highest proportion of
woodland in England, with trees covering approximately 22.4% of its land
— far above the national average — including many areas of ancient
woodland that support rich biodiversity and scenic beauty.
Roughly
30–40 miles (50–65 km) from central London, a noticeable shift takes
place in the county's character. The northern parts of Surrey, closest
to the capital, reflect a blend of American and European-style
conspicuous consumption. This area is known for its high-end lifestyle,
featuring the greatest concentration of golf courses in the country
(with over 100 courses, many of world-class quality on the famous Surrey
heathlands), luxurious homes, designer shops, international cuisine, and
easy access to global entertainment, fashion, and services. It remains
deeply connected to metropolitan London, with excellent transport links
via motorways and trains, making it feel almost like an extension of the
city while surrounded by charming Arcadian woodlands, historic
parklands, and elegant architecture.
In contrast, South Surrey feels more authentically
rural and quintessentially English. Here, traditional local customs,
hearty country foods, real ales from local breweries, folk and acoustic
music scenes, and classic rural sports become more prominent. The
landscape features rolling hills (part of the Surrey Hills Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty), peaceful villages, and a slower pace of
life. This southern region often proves especially appealing to visitors
from London who want to experience the finest aspects of English
countryside culture — think cozy pubs, seasonal festivals, walking
trails through ancient woods, and a genuine sense of heritage — without
venturing too far from the capital. Overall, Surrey offers the perfect
balance: cosmopolitan sophistication in the north and timeless rural
charm in the south.
Guildford – Surrey's county town, university hub, and the county's
most populous settlement. Frequently mislabeled as a city owing to its
impressive cathedral and prominent role in Surrey. Boasts a
well-preserved medieval castle, the engaging Surrey Archaeology Museum,
a bold contemporary cathedral rivaling those in Liverpool and Coventry
in design impact, an expansive medieval undercroft cellar, and
atmospheric castle crypts. A serene river glides through town, dotted
with small boats reminiscent of Cambridge's punts. Excellent retail
therapy awaits on the charming cobbled High Street and adjacent North
Street, complemented by diverse dining options from international
flavors to local specialties, plus lively nightlife venues. Visitor
centers offer guidance and guided town tours. Cultural highlights
include a vibrant theatre and a multi-sport leisure complex. Nearby
English Heritage sites and National Trust properties feature stunning
country estates amid picturesque landscapes.
Camberley – A bustling
modern town in Surrey Heath district, known for its expansive heathlands
and proximity to the Surrey Heath, ideal for outdoor pursuits like
hiking and cycling. Home to the prestigious Royal Military Academy
Sandhurst nearby, it offers family-friendly parks, diverse shopping at
The Meadows center, and easy access to Windsor Great Park.
Chertsey –
A quaint historic town along the River Thames in Runnymede borough,
famed for its 7th-century abbey ruins and the Gothic Revival Chertsey
Abbey. Features a vibrant weekly market, scenic riverside walks, and the
fascinating British Museum's collection of Chertsey tiles; close to
Thorpe Park for thrill-seekers.
Dorking – Charming hillside town
nestled in a valley flanked by the North Downs to the north and Leith
Hill (Surrey's loftiest peak at 996 feet) to the south. Climb the
National Trust's Leith Hill Tower, complete with a compact museum
offering panoramic views. Hosts England's biggest vineyard (Denbies Wine
Estate) for tours and tastings; renowned for antiques markets, fine
jewelry, and period furniture shops. Exceptional trails for running,
hiking, cycling snake north to Box Hill and south through the Greensand
Hills.
Epsom – Iconic for hosting The Derby, a premier flat horse
race established in 1780, celebrated as a two-day extravaganza each
early June on Epsom Downs amid the North Downs' chalky landscapes. Draws
massive crowds for its Classic status; favored walking routes link to
Leatherhead or the Zig Zag trail up Box Hill.
Farnham – Vibrant
market town in Waverley borough with a rich brewing heritage (home to
Aldershot's former Courage Brewery site echoes), topped by a Norman
castle now housing a museum of art and local history. Lively cobbled
streets brim with independent shops, cafes, and the renowned Farnham
Pottery; gateway to the North Downs Way long-distance path.
Godalming
– Quintessential ancient market town beside the River Wey in Waverley,
celebrated for its affluent, refined vibe appealing to established
wealth—though neighboring Haslemere ups the ante with luxury boutiques
and gourmet dining. Exudes subtle sophistication, exemplified by
Gertrude Jekyll's Munstead Wood garden (a 16-acre Arts & Crafts
masterpiece) and its Lutyens-designed house. Lined with grand, secluded
Victorian and Edwardian detached homes screened by lichen-covered
yellow-orange stone walls, mature yews, and cedars.
Haslemere –
Elegant town huddled at the edge of the Devil's Punch Bowl, a dramatic
natural amphitheater in the westernmost Surrey Hills, offering sweeping
vistas and wild heathland hikes on the Greensand Ridge Walk.
Leatherhead – Timeless market town perched elegantly above the River
Mole in Mole Valley, showcasing Georgian and Victorian architecture in
its compact core, plus exceptional gastropubs and farm-to-table
eateries. Superior cinema and theatre scene outshines Dorking; prime
launch for Mole Gap Trail cycling/hiking, west to Westhumble's Stepping
Stones, east via Box Hill's trails, or south to Dorking.
Oxted –
Effortlessly relaxed market town with classic English tearooms serving
scones, cakes, and cream teas. Perched on Tandridge District hills with
rewarding countryside rambles; swift M25 links to Kent's orchards. Rail
from London connects seamlessly to East Grinstead and Uckfield, making
it a smart stop en route to Ashdown Forest's heaths and Pooh Bridge.
Redhill – Dynamic commuter hub in Reigate and Banstead borough, blending
high street chains with indie stores, modern office spaces, and the
Belfairs Wood nature reserve for woodland strolls; well-served by
Gatwick Airport proximity.
Reigate – Heritage-rich town with
atmospheric historic inns, trendy bars, cozy cafes, traditional tea
rooms, and an upscale nightclub scene. Echoes Dorking's North Downs
perch, with free-access hilltop trails, picnic spots, and vistas over
exclusive private golf courses like Reigate Heath.
Staines-upon-Thames – Riverside settlement on the Thames in Spelthorne
borough, forever etched as the stomping ground of Sacha Baron Cohen's
iconic chav persona Ali G from Da Ali G Show; features Thames Path
walks, the Thorpe Park Resort nearby, and a revitalized high street with
waterside dining.
Weybridge – Appealing suburban town hugging the
Thames, nearer central London via South Western Railway, with idyllic
Thames towpath ambles. Luxuriate at the historic Oatlands Park Hotel
with its sprawling grounds evoking a resort escape; striking Brooklands
Hotel amid motorsport lore. The Brooklands Museum dazzles with hundreds
of vintage cars, aviation icons from Concorde to de Havilland Comet,
plus Mercedes-Benz World for supercar thrills and simulators.
Woking
– Surrey's second-largest town on the South Western Railway line,
infused with striking modernist architecture like the Rhodium building
and H.G. Wells bronze statues honoring the sci-fi pioneer (local
resident). Houses Britain's oldest continuously operating mosque (Shah
Jahan Mosque, 1889, in intricate Mughal stonework). Over six premier
golf courses within a 5-mile radius; McLaren Production Centre nearby
for automotive tours. Perfect midpoint between Weybridge's motorsport
and Guildford's historic core.
Cobham
A picturesque and historic village in northern Surrey,
situated along the scenic River Mole. Cobham blends rural charm with a
vibrant high street featuring independent shops, cozy cafés, and
excellent restaurants. Highlights include the beautifully restored
Cobham Mill (the only working watermill in Surrey), the historic Grade
I-listed St Andrew's Church with its Norman tower and stunning
stained-glass windows (including one designed by Edward Burne-Jones),
and nearby attractions like the elegant Painshill Landscape Gardens and
the unique surviving Napoleonic-era semaphore tower at Chatley Heath.
It's an ideal spot for peaceful riverside walks and exploring Surrey's
heritage.
Thames Ditton
A delightful riverside village on the
banks of the River Thames, retaining a strong village atmosphere despite
its proximity to London. Known for its quaint high street with
independent shops, delis, and charming cafés, it offers lovely riverside
pubs (such as Ye Olde Swan and The Albany) with beautiful views across
the water. Popular features include scenic Thames towpath walks, the
peaceful Giggs Hill Green, and its convenient location near Hampton
Court Palace. The area is perfect for enjoying riverside dining,
cycling, and soaking up the relaxed, community-focused vibe.
Surrey Hills National Landscape
This stunning protected area,
officially designated as a National Landscape (formerly an Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty since 1958), covers approximately one quarter
of Surrey's land area — about 422 km² (163 square miles). It encompasses
diverse habitats including chalk downland, ancient woodlands (Surrey is
England's most wooded county), heathland, and the Greensand Ridge,
stretching from Farnham in the west to Oxted in the east. The highest
point is Leith Hill at 294 metres (965 ft), the tallest summit in
southeast England. The area is crisscrossed by excellent long-distance
walking trails, including the famous North Downs Way National Trail, the
Greensand Way, and the Pilgrim's Way, offering breathtaking views and
access to iconic spots like Box Hill, Newlands Corner, Devil's Punch
Bowl, and Frensham Great Pond. It's a paradise for nature lovers,
hikers, and anyone seeking tranquility on London's doorstep.
Hampton Court Palace
A magnificent Tudor palace on the
River Thames, originally built by Cardinal Wolsey in the early 16th
century and famously "acquired" by Henry VIII in 1529. Expanded by Henry
into a lavish royal residence (with enormous kitchens to feed up to
1,600 people daily), it later saw Baroque additions by Sir Christopher
Wren under William III and Mary II. Visitors can explore grand state
apartments, the world-famous Maze, the oldest surviving grape vine in
the world, beautiful formal gardens, and the site of key historical
events like Henry VIII's marriages and the birth of his son Edward VI.
It's one of Britain's most iconic historic attractions, blending Tudor
splendor with later royal grandeur.
Surrey, a picturesque county in southeast England just south of
London, is easily accessible thanks to its excellent transport links.
By plane
The county benefits from proximity to two major
international airports. Heathrow Airport (to the northwest, actually
bordering Surrey) is the most convenient option for reaching the
northern and western parts of the county, including areas like
Staines-upon-Thames and Woking. Gatwick Airport, the UK's second-busiest
airport, lies just across the border in West Sussex but provides quick
access to southern and eastern Surrey via direct trains or buses to
towns like Redhill, Horley, and Guildford.
By train
Rail
services are frequent and reliable, especially for northern and central
Surrey.
From London Waterloo, South Western Railway runs regular,
fast trains to key destinations such as Guildford (often just 30–45
minutes on express services), Woking, and many other towns across the
county. Services are extensive, covering most areas well.
From London
Victoria, Southern operates services to the south and east of Surrey,
including towns like Dorking, Reigate, Redhill, and Epsom.
Only the
far southern and mid-southern rural areas have more limited rail
coverage.
By car
Surrey enjoys superb road connections via
several major motorways and trunk roads:
The M25 (London's
orbital motorway) provides excellent access to the north of the county,
linking to other major routes.
The M3 serves the northwest,
connecting London to the southwest of England.
The M23 runs
north–south through the eastern part, offering good links to Gatwick and
beyond.
Other important routes include the A3 (London to Portsmouth,
passing through Guildford and the southwest), the A24 (London to
Worthing, via Epsom and Dorking), and the A25 (an east–west corridor
across much of the county). Traffic can be heavy near London, especially
during peak hours.
By coach
National Express and other
operators (including services like RailAir) provide affordable coach
connections from major airports (especially Heathrow and Gatwick),
central London, and other UK cities to popular Surrey destinations such
as Guildford, Woking, and directly to Gatwick Airport. These coaches
offer comfortable seating, Wi-Fi, and power outlets, making them a great
budget-friendly choice.
For more organized visits, many major coach
companies run tour buses with pre-booked accommodation packages.
A
popular and economical itinerary for visitors is a quick day trip to
Hampton Court Palace using buses from London (via Kingston-upon-Thames),
or a short coach tour of historic Guildford (often bookable in advance).
By bus
Local buses provide good coverage, especially in built-up
areas, though services can be less frequent in rural spots.
In the
far north (near London), Transport for London red buses and the Oyster
card/contactless payment system extend to places like Epsom, Esher, and
Staines-upon-Thames — handy for visiting the famous racecourses (Epsom
Downs, Sandown Park, and Kempton Park). These northern areas are also
very well connected by train.
Other operators like Metrobus (strong
in the east) and Arriva (covering much of the county, including
Guildford and Woking areas) run regular services. For the latest
timetables and routes, check the Surrey County Council website or apps
like Traveline.
Additional tips
Many of Surrey's most
beautiful attractions — including scenic countryside walks, historic
villages, and nature reserves like the North Downs Way or RHS Garden
Wisley — are in rural areas. These often require good physical fitness
and mobility, as public transport is limited and walking or cycling may
be needed. For the best experience, consider combining trains/buses with
a car rental or taxi for remote sites.
The Savill Garden is a stunning 35-acre ornamental garden nestled in
the heart of Windsor Great Park, widely regarded as one of Britain's
finest landscaped gardens. Created in the 1930s, it features beautifully
interconnecting sections including vibrant rose gardens, azalea walks, a
tranquil water garden, woodland areas, seasonal floral displays (such as
camellias and rhododendrons in spring, and spectacular autumn colors), a
New Zealand Garden, and the Queen Elizabeth Temperate House. The garden
offers peaceful walking paths, stunning vistas, and expert planting that
provides color and interest throughout the year.
Location: Wick Lane,
Englefield Green, Surrey TW20 0UU (well signposted from the A30 towards
Camberley, accessible from M25 Junction 14). Buses from Egham railway
station run along the A30 nearby.
Contact: +44 1784 435544 (or 0845
603 6228 for group bookings); enquiries@theroyallandscape.co.uk.
Opening hours: Generally open daily from 10AM, with closing times
varying seasonally (often around 4PM in winter and later in summer; note
occasional closures or reduced facilities in early January for
maintenance).
Admission: Around £8–£12 depending on the season
(higher in peak summer, discounts available; free entry in January and
February in some years). Advance online booking is recommended for the
best price. On-site facilities include a restaurant (The Savill Garden
Kitchen), café options, a gift shop selling plants, local products, and
garden accessories, plus free parking with paid garden entry (card
payments only).
It's an ideal spot for a relaxing, all-seasons
visit—whether enjoying spring blooms, summer vibrancy, or winter
evergreens.
Explore on Foot or by Bike: Cycle or Hike Around Box
Hill
For an active outdoor adventure, head to the iconic Box Hill
area in the Surrey Hills. Start along the low, flat Mole Gap Trail (a
scenic riverside path) past vineyards, then connect to the historic
Pilgrims' Way (an ancient trackway with roots in prehistoric times,
later used by pilgrims).
Cross the famous stepping stones over the
River Mole (a charming, wide set of flat stones laid in a monk-like
fashion—perfect for photos, though watch your step!). From here, you can
detour to see the picturesque Norman chapel ruins near Westhumble (about
500m west), then tackle the rewarding climb up Box Hill itself. The
summit delivers breathtaking 180° panoramic views across London, the
Surrey countryside, and the rolling North Downs.
On the northern
side, visit the charming village of Mickleham, with its quaint
Alpine-like feel thanks to colorful stone cottages, chalets, and the
beautiful St Michael's Church (featuring a Norman tower, chequerboard
flint and clunch in the late Perpendicular Norbury chapel, and lovely
stained glass). Snow is rare here except occasionally in mid-January,
adding to the magical atmosphere when it does arrive.
If you're
cycling, this area forms part of the famous London-Surrey Cycle Classic
routes, offering incredible views of the quirky hillside homes and the
challenging, zig-zag road climb (often compared to Alpine ascents). All
of this is completely free to explore—bring sturdy shoes for the hills
and enjoy the mix of woodland, downland, and river scenery.
Denbies Wine Estate
Denbies Wine Estate is one of England's largest
single-estate vineyards, sprawling across 265 acres of beautiful rolling
Surrey Hills countryside.
Contact: +44 1306 876616 (or +44 1306
876777 for the 4* farmhouse accommodation).
Opening hours: Generally
9:30AM–5:30PM (slightly shorter in winter months); open most of the year
except Christmas Day, Boxing Day, and New Year's Day.
Experience
guided winery tours and tastings, a 360° cinema experience about the
vineyard and winemaking process, cellar visits, and seasonal outdoor
vineyard train rides (around 50 minutes, with commentary and stunning
panoramic views—available in summer). Options include tastings with
sparkling wine, food pairings, or relaxed lunches overlooking the vines.
Prices start from around £10–£17 for basic tours and tastings, up to
£45+ for combined experiences with meals.
Additional facilities
include excellent restaurants (like The Gallery with vineyard views), a
gift shop, traditional luxury farmhouse accommodation, conference
spaces, and wedding venues. It's a fantastic all-weather option for wine
lovers.
Catch Some Cricket
Surrey County Cricket Club (Surrey
CCC) plays its home matches at The Kia Oval (commonly known as The
Oval), a historic and world-famous international cricket ground in the
Kennington area of Lambeth, south London. This iconic venue has been the
club's home since 1845 and hosts thrilling domestic and international
matches throughout the season.
To eat affordably, stick to the charming towns and villages where you
can find great value in traditional pubs and genuine, independent
restaurants. Surrey boasts a fantastic variety of cuisines — Indian and
Italian are especially popular and widespread, but you'll also discover
excellent Greek, Spanish, Portuguese, Korean, Japanese, and Chinese
options in many areas. These independent spots often deliver authentic
flavors at reasonable prices compared to bigger chains.
A true local
highlight in winter is roasted chestnuts, sold fresh from street
vendors, markets, and seasonal stalls. Surrey also excels in fine game —
think pheasant, partridge, venison, and rabbit — which features
prominently on restaurant menus during the season and is readily
available year-round (or seasonally) from local butchers and even some
supermarkets. Local butchers pride themselves on sourcing from nearby
shoots and farms, ensuring top-quality, traceable meat.
For a special
treat, consider renting a car to explore the countryside and reach those
idyllic pub-restaurants tucked away beside rivers, streams, rolling
hills, and lush parkland. Many of these picturesque spots are paired
with luxury spa resorts or top golf courses, offering exceptional fine
dining and wine experiences. Riverside locations along the Thames or Wey
Navigation provide stunning views, often with terraces perfect for sunny
days or cozy evenings.
One standout example is the Runnymede on
Thames Hotel and Spa (Windsor Road, Egham — well signposted from M25
Junction 14 along the A308 towards Egham and Windsor). This luxurious,
adults-only riverside retreat features elegant rooms, excellent
riverside dining, indoor and seasonal outdoor pools, a highly rated spa
with treatments like massages and wraps, private boat hire options, and
facilities for meetings, weddings, and more. Rates for a double room
typically start around £150–£250+ per night (including spa access or
vouchers), depending on season and package — it's a perfect spot for
indulgence.
Beer lovers should head to Hogs Back Brewery near Farnham (in
Tongham), Surrey's largest independent craft brewery. Famous for
classics like TEA (Traditional English Ale) made with local hops, plus
modern options like Hogstar Lager, it offers tours, tastings, and a shop
— a must-visit for real ale enthusiasts.
Surrey is also gaining a
reputation for English wine, thanks to its chalky soils and sunny
slopes. Denbies Wine Estate near Dorking stands out as one of the UK's
largest single-estate vineyards (265 acres!), producing award-winning
still and sparkling wines with vineyard tours, tastings, and a hotel.
Greyfriars Vineyard near Guildford is another gem, part of the scenic
Surrey Hills wine route. During the festive season, warm up with
delicious homemade mulled wine — many pubs and street vendors serve up
fragrant, spiced versions that are especially magical at Christmas
markets and events.
Surrey consistently ranks among the safest counties in the UK, with
one of the lowest overall crime rates nationwide — particularly when it
comes to violent crime, which remains especially rare. The county
benefits from good community policing and surveillance.
For cyclists
planning longer stays or tours, Surrey Police run a popular cycle
marking/security scheme — get your bike registered for added protection.
High-quality locks are strongly recommended anyway, as bike theft can
occur (though it's not a major issue).
Car-related crime is low
overall, but watch for parking restrictions — unauthorized parking on
yellow lines or private areas can lead to clamping fees of £50–£100 or
more. Always check signs or ask locals. The extensive CCTV network,
especially around railway stations, helps ensure safe, reliable, and
relatively spacious public transport across the county.
Police
stations can be found in key towns including Guildford, Woking (inside
the civic centre), Reigate, Epsom, and nearby areas like Crawley (just
over the border).
Prehistoric and Ancient Periods
Surrey's history dates back to
prehistoric times, with evidence of human activity from the Mesolithic
period. Archaeological sites reveal Bronze Age barrows and bell barrows,
such as those on Horsell Common near Woking, and Iron Age hillforts at
locations like Holmbury Hill, Hascombe Hill, Anstiebury near Capel, Dry
Hill near Lingfield, St Ann's Hill in Chertsey, and St George's Hill in
Weybridge. These fortifications, dating to the 1st century BC and
re-occupied in the 1st century AD, indicate early defensive settlements
and community structures amid a landscape of woodlands and emerging
agriculture.
The Roman era brought significant infrastructure and
settlement to Surrey, which was crisscrossed by major roads like Stane
Street (connecting Chichester to London) and Ermine Street, with
remnants still visible today. Small Roman towns developed at Staines,
Ewell, Dorking, Croydon, and Kingston upon Thames, while rural temples
were built at Farley Heath, Wanborough, Titsey, Chiddingfold,
Betchworth, and Godstone. Excavations, such as the villa sites on Broad
Street Common discovered in 1892, highlight a network of farms and
villas supporting agricultural production. The region was likely
inhabited by the Atrebates tribe, centered in Hampshire, with eastern
parts possibly under the Cantiaci from Kent. Political turmoil followed
the death of King Cunobelinus around AD 42, leading to conflicts and
alliances that culminated in the Roman invasion of AD 43, where the
Atrebates sided with Rome. Roman occupation fostered trade and cultural
exchange but ended with the empire's withdrawal in the early 5th
century, paving the way for Anglo-Saxon incursions.
Formation of
Surrey and the Anglo-Saxon Period
By the 5th and 6th centuries,
Surrey was conquered and settled by Saxon tribes, including the
Godhelmingas around Godalming and the Woccingas between Woking and
Wokingham. It formed part of a Middle Saxon kingdom or confederacy,
assessed at 7,000 hides (a unit of land measurement), and was named
Sūþrīge or "southern region" by the historian Bede. Christianity arrived
in the 7th century, with Surrey initially under the East Saxon diocese
of London before shifting to Winchester. Chertsey Abbey, founded in 666
by King Ecgberht of Kent, became a pivotal religious center, while
Farnham Abbey was established in 686 by King Caedwalla of Wessex.
The
region experienced territorial disputes among kingdoms like Kent, Essex,
Sussex, Wessex, and Mercia until its absorption by Wessex in 825
following King Egbert's victory at the Battle of Ellandun. Sub-kings
such as Frithuwald (c. 673–675) and Frithuric (c. 675–686) ruled
intermittently. Viking invasions in the 9th century posed threats,
though Surrey's inland position provided some protection. Key events
include the defeat of a Danish fleet by Æthelwulf at the Battle of Aclea
in 851, losses in battles at Thanet in 853 (including ealdorman Huda),
and victories by Alfred the Great's son Edward at Farnham in 892.
Further devastation came from Thorkell the Tall in 1009–1011 and Cnut's
forces in 1016, leading to Cnut's conquest of England.
Political
instability persisted after Cnut's death in 1035, culminating in the
murder of Alfred Ætheling in Guildford in 1036 by Godwin, Earl of
Wessex. This strained relations with Edward the Confessor and
contributed to the tensions leading to the Norman Conquest in 1066. The
Domesday Book of 1086 documented Surrey's landscape, divided into 14
hundreds (administrative divisions like Blackheath, Brixton, and
others), with major landowners including Chertsey Abbey and Harold
Godwinson. Ealdormen like Wulfheard (c. 823), Huda (d. 853), Æðelweard
(late 10th century), and Æðelmær (d. 1016) played roles in governance.
Medieval Period
Following the Norman Conquest, William the
Conqueror's forces advanced through Surrey, defeating English resistors
at Southwark and crossing the Thames at Wallingford. Native landowners
were displaced, and royal estates dominated, with figures like Richard
fitz Gilbert holding vast lands. In 1088, William II created the Earldom
of Surrey for William de Warenne, which passed to the Fitzalan Earls of
Arundel until 1415 and later to the Howards in 1483. Castles were
constructed or fortified, including Guildford (which became a royal
palace in the 12th century), Farnham (held by the Bishop of Winchester),
Bletchingley, Reigate, Starborough, and Betchworth.
Borough status
was granted to Reigate and Bletchingley by the early 13th century, with
Guildford and Southwark also thriving due to proximity to London.
However, Surrey's infertile soils limited agricultural wealth, making it
less prominent among English counties. The Weald region was cleared for
farming in the 12th–13th centuries, and woollen cloth production became
a key industry around Guildford, utilizing fuller's earth from Reigate
and Nutfield. Despite exports of "gilforte" cloth, the industry lagged
behind other areas.
Rebellions and conflicts marked the era: the
Peasants' Revolt in 1381, Cade's Rebellion in 1450, and passages during
the Wars of the Roses (1460, 1469, 1471). Monasteries flourished,
including Waverley Abbey (1128, England's first Cistercian house),
Merton, Newark, Tandridge, Southwark, Reigate, and a Dominican friary at
Guildford (1274), all dissolved during the 16th-century Reformation.
Magna Carta was sealed at Runnymede in 1215 amid King John's baronial
conflicts. In 1216, Prince Louis of France captured Reigate and
Guildford castles. Henry III favored Guildford, expanding its palace,
while Simon de Montfort's rebels traversed the area en route to the
Battle of Lewes in 1264. Socially, Surrey earned the nickname "Surrey
capon" for supplying fattened chickens to London markets.
Early
Modern Period
Under the Tudors, royal palaces like Richmond (rebuilt
by Henry VII) and Nonsuch (built by Henry VIII near Ewell) elevated
Surrey's status, though Guildford's palace declined. Rebellions included
the Cornish uprising in 1497, briefly occupying Guildford, and Wyatt's
Rebellion in 1554 through Southwark and Kingston. The cloth industry
waned in the 16th century and collapsed in the 17th due to competition,
but ironworking expanded from Sussex, peaking in the early 17th century.
New industries in the Tillingbourne valley included brass, wire, paper,
and gunpowder production. The Wey Navigation canal opened in 1653,
boosting trade.
Notable figures included George Abbot, Archbishop of
Canterbury (1611–1633), who founded Abbot's Hospital in Guildford; his
brothers Robert (Bishop of Salisbury) and Maurice (East India Company
founder). Southwark's Bankside became a hub for Elizabethan and Jacobean
theatre, hosting works by Shakespeare, Marlowe, Jonson, and Webster.
Edward Alleyn established the College of God's Gift in Dulwich, now
Britain's oldest public art gallery.
Surrey largely avoided direct
combat in the English Civil War (1642–1646), secured by Parliamentarians
under Sir Richard Onslow. Farnham Castle was briefly held by Royalists
in 1642. Radical movements emerged: Levellers drafted manifestos in
Guildford (1647), leading to the Putney Debates; Diggers formed communes
at St. George's Hill (1649) and Cobham (1650), challenging land
ownership.
Modern Period
Prior to the 1832 Reform Act, Surrey
returned 14 MPs, with the Onslow family dominating as Whigs. Kew Palace
served as a royal residence in the 18th century for George III and
others. Turnpikes and stagecoaches improved transport, but railways from
the 1830s revolutionized the area, enabling commuting and population
growth. Towns like Guildford, Farnham, and Croydon expanded, while new
ones like Woking and Redhill arose. London's northward expansion led to
the creation of the County of London in 1889, detaching areas like
Lambeth and Southwark. Further boundary changes in 1965 transferred
Croydon, Kingston, Merton, Sutton, and parts of Richmond to Greater
London, adding Spelthorne from Middlesex. Gatwick Airport moved to West
Sussex in 1974.
Innovations included Brookwood Cemetery (1849, with
its own railway), Britain's first crematorium in Woking (1878), first
mosque (1889), and public electricity in Godalming (1881).
Ecclesiastical shifts saw eastern Surrey under Rochester (1877) then
Southwark (1905), with Guildford Diocese formed in 1927 (cathedral
consecrated 1961). The Arts and Crafts Movement, influenced by Surrey's
vernacular architecture, inspired Edwin Lutyens. Industries like paper
and gunpowder declined post-1870, replaced by vehicle manufacturing
(Dennis Brothers, 1895) and aviation (Sopwith, 1912; Hawker, 1920).
World War II brought fortifications along the North Downs' GHQ Stop
Line. Post-war, Croydon Airport (opened 1920) closed in 1959. The 1972
British European Airways Flight 548 crash near Staines was a notable
tragedy. Surrey's population grew from 452,218 in 1891 to over 1.2
million by 2024, with a density of 751/km². Ethnicity in 2021: 76.6%
White British, 8.9% Other White, 7.7% Asian, 1.7% Black, 3.4% Mixed,
1.7% Other. Economically, it hosts headquarters for companies like
Canon, Samsung, Pfizer, and NGOs like WWF UK. Administratively, the
county council moved to Reigate in 2020, with proposals for
reorganization into East and West Surrey unitary councils by 2027.
Surrey is a ceremonial and non-metropolitan county located in South
East England, immediately southwest of London. It spans an area of
approximately 1,663 square kilometers (642 square miles), making it the
35th largest ceremonial county in England by area. As of 2024 estimates,
it has a population of around 1.25 million, with a density of about 751
people per square kilometer. The county is one of the Home Counties,
characterized by its proximity to the capital, which influences its
suburban and commuter-belt nature. Its administrative center is Kingston
upon Thames, though the historic county town is Guildford. Surrey's
landscape is diverse, blending urban fringes in the north with rural,
hilly terrain in the south, and it features significant green spaces
despite its high population density.
Location and Boundaries
Surrey is positioned at coordinates roughly 51°15′N 0°27′W. It borders
Greater London to the northeast, Kent to the east, East Sussex and West
Sussex to the south, Hampshire to the southwest, and Berkshire to the
west. The River Thames forms much of the northern boundary, historically
separating Surrey from Middlesex (now largely incorporated into Greater
London). Boundary changes over time have reshaped the county: in 1965,
significant portions in the northeast were transferred to Greater
London, including areas now in boroughs like Croydon, Kingston upon
Thames, Lambeth, Merton, Richmond upon Thames, Southwark, Sutton, and
Wandsworth. Conversely, Spelthorne (formerly in Middlesex) was added to
Surrey. In 1974, Gatwick Airport and its surrounding area in the
southeast were moved to West Sussex, reducing Surrey's size slightly.
Administratively, Surrey comprises 11 districts: Elmbridge, Epsom and
Ewell, Guildford, Mole Valley, Reigate and Banstead, Runnymede,
Spelthorne, Surrey Heath, Tandridge, Waverley, and Woking. These
divisions reflect a mix of urbanized northern areas and more rural
southern ones. The county's location places it within the London
commuter belt, with excellent transport links via motorways like the
M25, M3, and M23, as well as rail networks.
Topography
Surrey's topography is marked by a north-south divide created by the
North Downs, a prominent chalk escarpment running east-west across the
county. This ridge, part of a larger formation extending from Kent to
Hampshire, rises up to 200-300 meters and separates the densely
populated, low-lying Thames Basin in the north from the more rural,
undulating landscapes of the Weald in the south. The northern lowlands
are generally flat or gently sloping, consisting of river valleys and
alluvial plains below 50 meters in elevation, ideal for suburban
development.
To the south, the terrain becomes hillier. The Surrey
Hills, designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in
1958 and covering about 422 square kilometers (163 square miles),
feature sandstone ridges and valleys. This area includes notable peaks
and viewpoints such as Leith Hill, the county's highest point at 295
meters (968 feet) above sea level—the second-highest in southeast
England after Walbury Hill in Berkshire. Other prominent hills include
Box Hill (224 meters), Holmbury Hill, and Pitch Hill. The southwest
hosts heathlands and sandy plateaus, while the southeast transitions
into the Low Weald, a clay plain with gentle rises leading to the High
Weald. Gaps in the North Downs, carved by rivers like the Mole and Wey,
create dramatic features such as the Mole Gap and Wey Valley.
The
varied relief supports diverse land uses, from agriculture in the
valleys to recreation on the hills. Notable landmarks include the
Devil's Punch Bowl, a large natural amphitheater near Hindhead formed by
erosion, and Frensham Ponds, man-made but integrated into the sandy
heath landscape.
Geology and Soil Types
Geologically, Surrey
exhibits a concentric pattern of sedimentary deposits from the
Cretaceous and Eocene periods. The North Downs are dominated by chalk,
forming porous, well-drained uplands. South of this, the Wealden Clay
and Lower Greensand create fertile but heavy soils in the valleys, while
the Surrey Hills consist of harder sandstones like Bargate stone and
Hythe Beds, resistant to erosion and forming the ridges. In the north,
London Clay prevails in the east, offering impermeable, fertile soils
prone to waterlogging, while Bagshot Sands in the west create acidic,
infertile heathlands. Alluvial deposits along rivers provide rich, loamy
soils suitable for farming.
Soil types vary accordingly: calcareous
soils on the chalk downs support grassland and thin woodland; sandy,
podzolic soils in the west foster heaths with plants like heather and
gorse; and clayey soils in the Weald are used for mixed farming. Surrey
hosts England's principal concentration of lowland heath, covering
extensive areas like Thursley and Hankley Commons, due to these
infertile sands. This geology also influences building materials, with
local chalk, clay, and sandstone used historically in structures like
Guildford Cathedral.
Climate
Surrey experiences a temperate
maritime climate, moderated by the Gulf Stream, with mild winters, warm
summers, and even rainfall distribution. Based on 1981–2010 data from
the Met Office station at Wisley (near Guildford), average daily maximum
temperatures range from 7.9°C in January to 23.0°C in July, while minima
range from 2.1°C in January to 12.4°C in July. Annual precipitation
averages 658 mm (25.9 inches), spread over about 112 rainy days, with
slightly higher totals in the hilly south due to orographic effects.
Sunshine hours total around 1,564 annually.
Extremes include a record
high of 37.8°C (100.0°F) in August 2003 at Wisley and a low of -15.1°C
(4.8°F) in January 1982. The county's southern location makes it one of
England's warmest and driest areas, though frost can occur in valleys,
and occasional heavy snowfall affects the hills. Climate change trends
suggest warmer, wetter winters and hotter, drier summers, impacting
local agriculture and water resources.
Rivers and Water Bodies
The River Thames is Surrey's most significant waterway, forming parts of
the northern boundary and influencing settlement patterns. It runs from
west to east, with sections fully within Surrey (e.g., from
Staines-upon-Thames to Sunbury) and others marking borders with Greater
London and Berkshire. Major tributaries include the River Wey, the
longest Thames tributary above London, navigable via the Wey and
Godalming Navigations canal system; the River Mole, which flows
northward through gaps in the North Downs and features underground
sections near Leatherhead; the River Bourne (with branches like the
Addlestone and Chertsey); and the Hogsmill River, draining Epsom and
Ewell.
In the east, the River Eden's upper reaches are in Tandridge
District, feeding into the Medway system outside Surrey. The River Colne
and its anabranch, the Wraysbury River, briefly enter northern Surrey.
Water bodies include reservoirs like Queen Mary Reservoir and natural
ponds such as Frensham Great Pond, created for fish farming but now
recreational. These rivers support wetlands, floodplains, and
biodiversity, though urban development has led to flood risks, mitigated
by schemes like the Lower Mole Flood Alleviation.
Natural Areas
and Wildlife
Surrey boasts the highest woodland coverage in England
at 22.4% (compared to the national average of 11.8%), with districts
like Surrey Heath reaching 41% tree cover. Key natural areas include the
Surrey Hills AONB, encompassing woodlands, heaths, and chalk grasslands,
and home to rare species like the sand lizard and nightjar. Commons such
as Puttenham, Crooksbury, Witley, Hankley, and Frensham offer extensive
heathlands, designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs)
and Special Protection Areas (SPAs) for birds.
The county manages 80
reserves through the Surrey Wildlife Trust, one per district, protecting
habitats from ancient woodlands (e.g., with veteran oaks) to wetlands.
The Metropolitan Green Belt encircles much of northern Surrey,
preserving open spaces for recreation, including footpaths like the
153-mile North Downs Way. Biodiversity includes over 2,000 species of
moths and butterflies, rare plants like sundews on heaths, and mammals
such as deer and badgers. Surrey's geography supports a large horse
population and activities like hiking, cycling, and birdwatching.