West Sussex is a scenic county located in the South East of England,
offering a delightful combination of rolling countryside, historic
towns, picturesque villages, and an attractive coastline.
It is
bordered by Hampshire to the west, Surrey to the north, East Sussex to
the east, and the English Channel to the south, where visitors can enjoy
beautiful beaches and traditional seaside towns.
Chichester – the historic county town and the only city in West
Sussex, renowned for its Roman heritage, magnificent cathedral, Georgian
architecture, and lively cultural festivals.
Arundel – a charming
market town dramatically positioned beneath the impressive medieval
Arundel Castle, one of England's most striking and well-preserved
castles.
East Grinstead – a popular starting point for nostalgic
journeys on the heritage Bluebell Railway, a beautifully preserved steam
railway that travels through stunning Sussex landscapes.
Midhurst –
beautifully situated in the heart of the South Downs National Park.
Petworth – a delightful small town famous for Petworth House and Park, a
grand National Trust stately home surrounded by a vast deer park and
containing an exceptional art collection.
Other popular coastal and
inland towns include Bognor Regis, Worthing, Littlehampton, Selsey
(famous for Selsey Bill), Crawley, Horsham, Burgess Hill, Haywards
Heath, and Shoreham-by-Sea.
Charming smaller places include the
historic harbour village of Bosham in Chichester Harbour, the large
coastal village of Lancing, the pretty village of Amberley (home to an
industrial heritage museum), and the quiet village of Wiston.
South Downs National Park
This stunning national park stretches
across rolling chalk hills, ancient woodlands, dramatic white cliffs,
and sweeping coastal views. As one of Britain's newest national parks,
it offers over 3,300 km of footpaths, bridleways, and trails — including
the iconic South Downs Way — ideal for hiking, cycling, or simply
soaking in panoramic vistas. Highlights include the breathtaking Seven
Sisters cliffs, Devil's Dyke valley, ancient yew forests at Kingley
Vale, and excellent stargazing spots as an International Dark Skies
Reserve. It's a perfect gateway for outdoor adventures just a short
distance from London.
Bracklesham Bay
A picturesque
sandy and shingle beach along the Sussex coast, Bracklesham Bay is a
haven for families and adventure seekers alike. With gentle shelving
shores and strong winds, it's one of the south coast's top spots for
windsurfing, kitesurfing, paddleboarding (SUP), and other watersports —
equipment hire and lessons are readily available nearby. When the tide
is out, explore wide expanses of wet sand for fossil hunting, enjoy
relaxed beach walks, or spot occasional seals. It's a laid-back coastal
gem with nearby eateries like Billy’s on the Beach, great for a
refreshing day by the sea.
Knepp Wildland (New Barn Farm, Dial
Post, RH13 8NN, ☏ +44 1403 713230, safaris@knepp.co.uk)
This
pioneering 3,500-acre ecological estate is one of the UK's most
inspiring rewilding projects, transformed since 2000 from intensive
farmland into thriving wilderness. Free-roaming herds of longhorn
cattle, Exmoor ponies, Tamworth pigs, red deer, fallow deer, and roe
deer naturally shape the landscape, creating dynamic habitats of
scrubland, wild meadows, wetlands, and wood pasture.
The results have
been remarkable: wildlife has surged back dramatically, making it a
breeding hotspot for critically endangered species such as nightingales,
turtle doves, and purple emperor butterflies (the UK's largest
population), alongside returns of rare birds like cuckoos, white storks
(first wild chicks in England for 600 years), peregrine falcons, and
more — plus thriving populations of bats, owls, butterflies, and small
mammals.
Visitors can experience this living success story through
expert-led wildlife safaris, garden tours, workshops, glamping stays
(including yurts, treehouses, and shepherd’s huts), and events focused
on nature and sustainability. It's a powerful example of how letting
nature lead can revitalize biodiversity.
Amberley Castle
Nestled at the foot of the South
Downs, this enchanting 900-year-old medieval castle (now a luxury hotel)
features dramatic curtain walls up to 60 feet high, a working portcullis
(one of the few remaining in Europe), formal gardens with koi ponds,
lakes, an 18-hole putting course, and a thatched treehouse. Originally a
12th-century manor fortified in the 14th century, it offers a romantic
glimpse into history while providing modern comforts — non-guests can
visit the grounds, enjoy afternoon tea, or dine in its award-winning
restaurant.
Arundel Castle
Perched dramatically above the River
Arun, this fairy-tale-like castle is the historic seat of the Dukes of
Norfolk and boasts nearly 1,000 years of history. Highlights include the
11th-century Norman keep with sweeping views, grand state rooms filled
with masterpieces by Van Dyck, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Canaletto,
the magnificent Baron's Hall, and the Fitzalan Chapel. The beautiful
gardens feature quirky features like a stumpery and collector's garden.
It's a must-visit for its blend of medieval architecture, royal
connections, and stunning South Downs backdrop.
The local accent belongs to the Home Counties family – generally clear and straightforward. Visitors speaking other languages may occasionally find the pace or pronunciation challenging, but locals are typically very patient and helpful. Multilingual phrasebooks and dictionaries are widely available in local bookshops.
London Gatwick Airport (LGW) is conveniently located just six miles north of Crawley. It offers excellent worldwide connections and has direct road and rail links to many parts of the south coast, meaning visitors can easily reach most of West Sussex without passing through central London.
West Sussex is part of England's flourishing sparkling wine region. Excellent English sparkling wines are produced at vineyards such as Nyetimber (near Pulborough), Wiston Estate, and Bolney Estate (near Haywards Heath). Many of these vineyards welcome visitors for tours and tastings of their award-winning bubbly wines.
Prehistoric Era
Human settlement in West Sussex dates back to the
Lower Paleolithic period, approximately 500,000 years ago. The most
significant discovery is the remains of Homo heidelbergensis, known as
Boxgrove Man, unearthed at Eartham Pit near Chichester. This site
provides evidence of early hominins using flint tools for hunting and
butchering large animals like horses and rhinoceroses. Archaeological
finds also include tools from around 35,000 years ago near Pulborough,
potentially linked to late Neanderthals or early modern humans. During
the Neolithic period (around 4000 BC), flint mines on the South Downs,
such as those at Cissbury Ring, represent some of Europe's earliest
mining activities. The Bronze Age saw the construction of burial mounds
like the Devil's Jumps near Treyford, while the Iron Age brought hill
forts including Cissbury Ring and Chanctonbury Ring on the South Downs,
serving as defensive and communal sites for Celtic tribes.
Roman
Period (AD 43–410)
The Roman invasion of Britain in AD 43 marked a
transformative era for West Sussex, which was inhabited by the Atrebates
tribe, part of the Belgic confederation. The Romans landed on the Sussex
coast and quickly subdued the region, incorporating it into the province
of Britannia. A key figure was Togidubnus (or Tiberius Claudius
Cogidubnus), a client king of the Regni (or Regnenses) tribe, who ruled
from Noviomagus Reginorum (modern Chichester) and maintained alliances
with Rome. The Romans constructed elaborate structures, including
Fishbourne Roman Palace near Chichester, built around AD 70 as one of
the largest Roman residences north of the Alps, featuring intricate
mosaics and hypocaust heating systems. Other notable sites include
Bignor Roman Villa, discovered in 1811, with its well-preserved mosaics
depicting mythological scenes.
Infrastructure flourished with a
network of roads: Stane Street connected Chichester to London, the
Chichester to Silchester Way linked to other Roman centers, and the
Sussex Greensand Way facilitated trade. The Weald region in northern
West Sussex became a hub for iron production on an industrial scale,
with bloomeries extracting ore for tools and weapons. Coastal defenses
were bolstered against Saxon raids, though Sussex remained relatively
peaceful until the empire's decline. By AD 410, Emperor Honorius
withdrew Roman support, leaving the area vulnerable to invasions.
Anglo-Saxon Kingdom and Early Middle Ages (AD 477–1066)
The
post-Roman vacuum led to Saxon settlement, traditionally dated to AD 477
when Ælle and his three sons landed at Cymenshore (possibly near Selsey
or Bracklesham Bay) with three ships, defeating local Britons as
recorded in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. Though partly mythical,
archaeology confirms Saxon arrivals in the late 5th century. Ælle became
the first bretwalda (overlord) of southern Britain, expanding Sussex's
territory between the Ouse and Cuckmere rivers. The Kingdom of Sussex,
or South Saxons, emerged as one of the Heptarchy kingdoms, with its
capital initially at an uncertain location but later centered around
Chichester.
Christianization was delayed; Sussex was the last
Anglo-Saxon kingdom to convert, thanks to St. Wilfrid's missions
starting in AD 665 and intensifying in 681, establishing a see at Selsey
Abbey. Conflicts with neighboring Wessex were frequent: King Æðelwealh
allied with Mercia but was slain by Cædwalla of Wessex around 685. By
the 8th century, Sussex incorporated the Haestingas tribe in the east.
Viking raids intensified from AD 895, with defeats near Chichester, and
in 994, they ravaged villages. The kingdom was annexed by Wessex around
AD 827 after the Battle of Ellandun, becoming an earldom by 860. In
1075, the bishopric moved from Selsey to Chichester, solidifying the
city's ecclesiastical role. Inheritance customs like borough-English
(property to the youngest son) were common in areas like Bramber Rape.
Norman Conquest and Medieval Period (1066–1485)
The Norman
Conquest profoundly shaped Sussex. In 1066, William the Conqueror's
forces defeated King Harold Godwinson at the Battle of Hastings
(actually near Senlac Hill in East Sussex, but with implications for the
whole county). To secure control, William divided Sussex into six
rapes—Chichester, Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Pevensey, and
Hastings—granting them to loyal nobles like Roger de Montgomery
(Arundel) and William de Warenne (Lewes). These rapes, unique to Sussex,
served administrative and defensive purposes. Castles proliferated:
Bramber Castle (1070), Arundel (1067, besieged in 1102), and Knepp
Castle (confiscated by King John in 1208). Chichester Castle was
besieged in 1216 by rebels and destroyed in 1217.
Medieval Sussex was
strategically vital, part of the Cinque Ports for naval defense. The
Battle of Lewes in 1264 saw Simon de Montfort capture King Henry III,
advancing baronial reforms. Economic activities included wool exports
from Chichester (granted Staple Port status in 1353) and ironworking in
the Weald. Calamities struck: the Black Death in 1348 decimated
populations, crop failures in 1315 caused famine, and French raids in
1545 targeted the coast. Religious institutions thrived, with the
Knights Templar at Shipley (granted 1125, dissolved 1312) and Chichester
Cathedral (consecrated 1184, fires in 1114 and 1187). Rebellions like
the Peasants' Revolt (1381) and Jack Cade's (1450) reflected social
unrest.
Tudor, Stuart, and Early Modern Period (1485–1800)
The
Tudor era brought religious turmoil. Henry VIII's Reformation in 1538
vandalized shrines like St. Richard's at Chichester Cathedral. Under
Mary I, Protestants were burned, including at East Grinstead in 1556.
Elizabeth I visited Cowdray House in 1591. Glassmaking thrived around
Wisborough Green from 1567, introduced by Huguenot refugees, but
declined after a 1615 ban on wood fuel. Beacons were established in 1587
to warn of Spanish invasion.
The English Civil War (1642–1651) saw
sieges at Chichester (captured by Parliamentarians in 1642) and Arundel,
with a skirmish at Haywards Heath. Royalist strongholds like Stansted
and Cowdray were seized in 1643. Charles II fled via Shoreham in 1651
along the Monarch's Way. Quakerism emerged, with George Fox visiting in
1655 and meeting houses like Ifield (1676) and Blue Idol (1691). Storms
devastated the coast in 1703, and the last Black Death outbreak hit
Goring in 1721.
Economic shifts included turnpike roads from 1749
(e.g., Hindhead to Chichester) and Capability Brown's landscaping at
Petworth Park (1752). Seaside resorts began developing: Richard
Russell's 1750 treatise promoted seawater cures, leading to bathing
machines in Worthing by 1789 and Princess Amelia's visit in 1798.
19th Century and Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution
transformed West Sussex unevenly. Canals like the Wey and Arun
(1813–1871) and Portsmouth and Arundel (1823–1853) aided transport but
closed due to railways. Railways arrived: Brighton to Shoreham (1840),
London to Brighton (1841), Shoreham to Worthing (1845), and others
connecting Horsham (1859) and Petworth (1866). Seaside towns boomed:
Worthing gained town status in 1803, its pier opened in 1862; Bognor
Regis developed from 1785, with a pier in 1865 and railway in 1864.
Social issues included the Swing Riots (1830) against agricultural
mechanization and the Salvation Army Riots in Worthing (1884). Epidemics
struck: typhoid in Worthing (1893, killing 188). Institutions emerged:
Royal West Sussex Hospital (1828), Ardingly College (1858), and St.
Francis' Hospital (1859). Arundel Cathedral was built in 1873 (initially
as a church). The county was divided administratively in 1889 under the
Local Government Act 1888, creating separate councils for East and West
Sussex.
20th Century and Modern Era
The 20th century brought
rapid change. Education reforms in 1902 shifted responsibility to Sussex
County Council. Aviation pioneered: Shoreham Airfield's first flight
(1910) and Art Deco terminal (1936); Gatwick Aerodrome (1930) evolved
into a major airport. Seaside infrastructure included Worthing's
Homefield Park (1880) and Bognor's concrete sea wall (1870).
World
Wars impacted heavily. In WWI, Sussex regiments fought at Boar's Head
(1916); armistice terms were agreed at Danny House. WWII made West
Sussex a frontline: bombings killed 7 in Horsham (1940), 28 in Petworth
(1942), and 108 in East Grinstead (1943). Airfields supported the Battle
of Britain, and it served as a D-Day base with Mulberry harbors.
Post-war, the New Towns Act (1946) designated Crawley as a New Town,
spurring growth. The Local Government Act 1972 reformed boundaries,
making West Sussex a single ceremonial county and transferring Mid
Sussex areas (e.g., Haywards Heath, Burgess Hill, East Grinstead) from
East Sussex. The South Downs National Park was established in 2010,
preserving the landscape. Modern West Sussex blends historic sites like
the Weald and Downland Living Museum with contemporary developments,
celebrating Sussex Day on June 16.
West Sussex is an administrative county in southern England, situated
along the English Channel. It borders Hampshire to the west, Surrey to
the north, East Sussex to the east, and the sea to the south. The county
spans approximately 769 square miles (1,991 square kilometers), making
up about 1.52% of England's land area and ranking as the 30th largest
county. It lies within the historic county of Sussex, except for a small
northern area around Gatwick Airport that belongs to Surrey. The region
is characterized by a mix of rural landscapes, coastal plains, and
upland areas, with a population concentrated along the coast.
Landscape and Topography
The landscape of West Sussex is diverse,
featuring a fertile coastal plain in the south, the rolling chalk hills
of the South Downs running east-west across the county, and the wooded
Weald in the north. The South Downs form a prominent ridge, with abrupt
northern slopes transitioning sharply from chalk to the heavy clays and
sands of the Weald, while the southern slopes descend more gently toward
the English Channel. This escarpment divides the county into northern
and southern sections, creating a natural barrier. The coastal plain
south of Chichester is flat and fertile, extending to the headland of
Selsey Bill, and has historically supported market gardening, though
much is now urbanized into a conurbation from Chichester to Brighton.
North of the Downs lies the Weald, a well-wooded area divided into the
High Weald, Low Weald, and Greensand Ridge. Ancient woodlands cover
significant portions, with winding lanes and small villages dotting the
rural interior. The highest point in West Sussex (and all of Sussex) is
Blackdown at 280 meters (919 feet), a pine-clad hill near the Surrey
border in the Weald. Other notable elevations include Chanctonbury Hill
at 240 meters and Crown Tegleaze at 255 meters within the South Downs.
Unlike East Sussex, which emphasizes eastern High Weald features, West
Sussex highlights the Greensand Ridge and more extensive coastal plains.
The overall topography reflects erosion patterns, with the Weald basin
formed from softer sands and clays.
Geology
West Sussex's
geology is dominated by east-west bands of Upper Jurassic and Lower
Cretaceous rocks, part of the Weald–Artois Anticline. The South Downs
consist of chalk ridges with dry valleys known as coombes, such as
Devil's Dyke, the largest chalk karst coombe in Britain. The Weald
exposes Wealden Beds, including Hastings Beds and Weald Clay, which
yield resources like Sussex marble and Horsham Stone. The coastal plain
features Tertiary rocks (e.g., London Clay and Bagshot Beds) and
superficial deposits from glacial periods, such as raised beaches,
gravels, and Coombe rock. Natural resources include gypsum mining
(though more in East Sussex), oil drilling at Singleton, and potential
shale gas near Balcombe. Erosion of softer materials has shaped the
Weald basin and indented coastline, differing from East Sussex's chalk
cliffs like the Seven Sisters.
Rivers and Water Bodies
The
county's rivers primarily originate in the Weald and flow southward to
the English Channel. The longest river entirely within Sussex is the
River Arun, at 60 kilometers (37 miles), which rises near Horsham and
drains much of West Sussex along with its tributary, the western River
Rother. It enters the sea at Littlehampton. The River Adur, with its
western branch, also drains the region, while the River Lavant is a
winterbourne (intermittent stream) flowing from springs on the chalk
downs north of Chichester to Chichester Harbour. Other intermittent
streams, locally called "rifes," supplement the drainage. Marshlands and
wetlands are common along the coast, including Pagham Harbour and the
Manhood Peninsula. In contrast to East Sussex's eastward-flowing rivers
like the Cuckmere, West Sussex's waterways emphasize southern drainage
through chalk-supplemented streams.
Coastline
West Sussex
boasts a varied coastline along the English Channel, stretching from
Shoreham-by-Sea in the east to the Hampshire border in the west. It is
predominantly low-lying, with sandy and shingle beaches supporting
resort towns like Worthing, Littlehampton, and Bognor Regis. The western
part is indented, featuring Chichester Harbour—a large ria (drowned
river valley) with minimal development, ideal for recreational
sailing—and Pagham Harbour. The Manhood Peninsula culminates at Selsey
Bill, Sussex's southernmost point (50°43′21.62″N 0°47′16.77″W), where
coastal erosion continually reshapes the shoreline, particularly around
the flat headland. The "Bay of Sussex" extends from Selsey Bill to
Beachy Head (73 kilometers or 45 miles). Beaches range from sand to
shingle, with raised beaches and gravels as superficial deposits. Unlike
East Sussex's bold chalk cliffs, West Sussex's coast is flatter and more
estuarine, with marine habitats like chalk reefs (e.g., Worthing Lumps)
and the Shoal of the Lead offshore.
Climate
West Sussex
experiences an oceanic climate, typical of southern England, with mild
temperatures, moderate rainfall, and influence from the sea. It is
classified as "British" with below-average precipitation, heaviest on
the South Downs at around 950 millimeters (37 inches) annually. Coastal
areas, especially resorts like Bognor Regis, are among the sunniest in
the UK, benefiting from sea breezes that clear clouds. Summers are warm
and humid, while winters are cool, occasionally affected by cold
easterly winds or south-westerly fronts bringing rain from January to
March. The region falls mostly in Hardiness zone 8, with the coastal
plain west of Brighton in the milder zone 9. Selsey is a noted tornado
hotspot, with events recorded in 1986, 1998, and 2000. Thunderstorms
occur in summer, and the proximity to Europe can bring continental
weather extremes. There is little climatic distinction from East Sussex,
though the western coast shares similar maritime moderation.
Natural Features and Protected Areas
West Sussex is rich in natural
features, including ancient woodlands (covering 17.5% of the land),
heathlands, and lowland calcareous grasslands on the chalk Downs. The
South Downs National Park, shared with Hampshire and East Sussex,
protects the chalk hills and offers trails like the South Downs Way.
Chichester Harbour is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and a
Special Area of Conservation, featuring islands like Thorney and Pilsey.
Other protected sites include Pagham Harbour (a wetland and bird feeding
ground), RSPB Pulborough Brooks, Kingley Vale National Nature Reserve
(with ancient yew trees), WWT Arundel (a Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust
reserve), and St Leonard's Forest. Biodiversity highlights include the
county flower, Round-headed Rampion, on chalk grasslands, and marine
environments with chalk reefs. West Sussex emphasizes coastal harbours
and Wealden woodlands, contrasting with East Sussex's levels and marshes
like Pevensey and Romney.