Location: 16 miles South of San Ignacio, Cayo District
Che Chem Ha Cave, also known as Chechem Ha or the “Cave of the Poisonwood Water,” is a Mayan ceremonial cave located in the Cayo District of western Belize, approximately 16 miles (26 km) southeast of San Ignacio and 8 miles (13 km) southeast of Benque Viejo del Carmen, near the start of the Maya Mountains. This dry cave, set within the Vaca Plateau forest reserve on private land owned by the Morales family, is renowned for its extensive collection of intact Mayan pottery and artifacts, making it one of Belize’s most significant archaeological sites. Discovered in 1989 by local farmer William Morales, the cave offers a glimpse into ancient Maya rituals and storage practices, dating from the Middle Preclassic (900–300 BCE) to the Late Classic (700–850 CE) periods.
Che Chem Ha Cave is situated in the lush, rolling hills of the upper
Macal River Valley, near Vaca Falls, in a region characterized by
limestone karst topography. The cave is a “dry cave,” meaning it lacks
active water flow, a result of water escaping through porous limestone,
leaving behind a network of chambers and passages sculpted by ancient
erosion. The cave system is approximately 800 feet (244 meters) long,
with a small entrance—a narrow hole amidst boulders—that opens into a
main tunnel (200 meters long). This tunnel leads to a large central
chamber, which connects to smaller, elevated chambers accessible by
ladders or ropes.
The entrance, perched at about 1,400 feet above
sea level, requires a strenuous 30–45-minute uphill hike through dense
rainforest from the Morales family’s farm. The surrounding landscape
features jungle trails, medicinal plants, wild fruit trees, and the
Macal River, with scenic views of the valley. The cave’s name derives
from the Yucatec Maya term “Che Chem” (referring to the poisonous resin
of the Chechem tree, or black poisonwood) and “Ha” (water), though the
toxic trees have been cleared from trails for safety. Geological
formations like stalactites and stalagmites are present but less
prominent than the archaeological treasures, which are the cave’s
primary draw.
Che Chem Ha’s historical significance spans ancient Maya use and
modern rediscovery:
Maya Occupation: The cave was used by the
Maya from the Middle Preclassic (900–300 BCE) to the Late Classic
(700–850 CE) periods, as evidenced by ceramic dating aligning with
nearby sites like Cahal Pech. It served dual purposes: as a storehouse
for grains (e.g., maize) and as a ceremonial center for rituals,
including bloodletting and offerings to appease gods. The Maya viewed
caves as portals to Xibalba, the underworld, making Che Chem Ha a sacred
space for spiritual practices.
Discovery: In 1989, William Morales, a
local farmer, stumbled upon the cave while hunting with his dog. The dog
chased a gibnut (a small rodent) into a small hole among boulders,
leading Morales to the entrance. Inside, he found hundreds of untouched
pottery vessels, plates, and other artifacts, remarkably preserved due
to the cave’s inaccessibility. The Morales family, farming the land
since the 1940s, reported the find, and the cave was mapped and studied
by archaeologists through the 1990s.
Modern Protection: To prevent
looting, the Belize Institute of Archaeology restricts access, allowing
entry only with certified guides, often Morales family members like
William or his son, William Pleitez. The artifacts remain in situ,
creating a “living museum” experience.
Che Chem Ha is distinguished by its vast collection of Mayan
artifacts, one of the largest and best-preserved in Belize. Key findings
include:
Ceramics: Hundreds of pottery vessels, including large
storage jars (“ollas”), plates, lids, and bowls, line the cave’s
chambers. Some are intact, others in shards, with artistic decorations
like paintings, glyphs, and motifs. These date from 1000 BCE, among the
earliest recorded for Maya cave ceremonies in the region. Elevated
chambers, accessed by ladders, contain vessels used to collect “pure
water” (stalactite drippings) for rituals or store grains, some still
holding ancient seeds or decomposed maize.
Ritual Artifacts: The main
chamber features rocks arranged as altars, believed to be used for
sacred rituals. A stela (stone relief) at the tunnel’s end depicts Ix
Chel, the Mayan fertility goddess, suggesting offerings for agricultural
prosperity. Other chambers contain ceremonial items, possibly linked to
bloodletting or afterlife rituals.
Cultural Insights: The sheer
number of intact vessels—unlike the skeletal remains or calcified
artifacts at caves like Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM)—highlights Che Chem
Ha’s role as a storage and ceremonial hub. The artifacts provide
evidence of the Maya’s complex worldview, blending practical needs (food
storage) with spiritual practices (appeasing underworld gods).
Archaeologists note that the cave’s use spanned centuries, reflecting
continuity in Maya traditions. Its proximity to sites like Xunantunich
and Cahal Pech suggests it was part of a regional network of sacred and
economic centers.
Exploring Che Chem Ha is a physically demanding adventure, distinct
from more accessible caves like Barton Creek. Key features include:
Entrance and Access: The cave’s small, boulder-framed entrance
requires a crouch to enter. After a 30–45-minute uphill hike (910–15
minutes on some tours), visitors reach the summit, greeted by Mayan
motifs carved or painted at the entrance, setting a mystical tone.
Main Tunnel and Chambers: The 200-meter tunnel, with damp air and a
faint calcified odor, leads to a spacious main chamber. Narrow passages
wind through limestone walls, floors, and ceilings, with “curly”
pathways evidencing past water flow. The main chamber contains
rock-lined altars and pottery, while smaller, elevated chambers—reached
by short ladders or ropes—house additional vessels and relics. Visitors
navigate nine symbolic “levels” of the underworld, culminating at the Ix
Chel stela.
Geological Formations: Stalactites and stalagmites,
though not as dramatic as in Crystal Cave, add to the cave’s ambiance.
The dry environment preserves artifacts, unlike wet caves where water
might erode ceramics.
Tour Experience: Tours last ~90 minutes inside
the cave, guided by experts who explain Maya cosmology and artifact
significance. Visitors wear sturdy shoes to avoid slipping on damp
surfaces and use headlamps (provided) to illuminate dark passages.
Photography is allowed, but touching or removing artifacts is strictly
prohibited to preserve the site.
The Maya revered caves as sacred spaces, entrances to Xibalba where
gods and ancestors resided. Che Chem Ha’s artifacts suggest it was a
multifunctional site:
Ceremonial Role: Rituals likely included
offerings of maize, seeds, or blood to ensure fertility and divine
favor. The Ix Chel stela ties the cave to agricultural and reproductive
rituals, as she was a goddess of fertility and medicine.
Storage
Function: Large vessels indicate grain storage, vital for sustaining
communities during dry seasons or rituals. The collection of “pure
water” from stalactites underscores the cave’s spiritual and practical
importance.
Cosmology: The cave’s nine underworld levels reflect Maya
beliefs in a layered cosmos, with caves bridging the earthly and divine
realms. Guides often share stories of these beliefs, enriching the tour.
Compared to other Belize caves—ATM’s skeletal remains, Barton Creek’s
river tubing, or Crystal Cave’s crystalline formations—Che Chem Ha
stands out for its archaeological density, offering a museum-like
experience in a natural setting.
Visiting Che Chem Ha is an adventure combining physical challenge,
cultural immersion, and natural beauty. Key details include:
Access:
Located 16 miles from San Ignacio, reached via a 30-minute
drive (10 minutes on the Western Highway toward Guatemala, then 20
minutes south off Benque Viejo on Hydro Road). The final 7 miles are on
a rough dirt road (Mellojon Road), requiring a 4WD vehicle, especially
in the rainy season (June–November). A faded sign marks the turn to the
Morales farm.
From the farm, a 30–45-minute uphill hike through
jungle trails leads to the cave. Guides enforce rest and water stops to
manage the strenuous trek.
Tours:
Only certified guides, often
Morales family members, conduct tours to protect artifacts. Operators
like Pacz Tours, Jungle Splash Eco-Tours, or Belize Archaeology Tours
offer packages, or visitors can contact the Morales family directly
(e.g., via Robert at +501-652-2444). Group sizes are limited to 8 guests
per guide.
Tours cost ~$50–$125 USD per person, including entrance
fees (~$8 BZD), equipment (headlamps), water, snacks, and sometimes
lunch. Expanded tours may include Vaca Falls (a 214-foot waterfall) for
swimming or a Macal River pontoon ride.
Duration: ~3–4 hours total
(hike, 90-minute cave tour, return). Afternoon or night tours are
available with some operators.
What to Bring:
Hiking shoes
with good traction, long pants, mosquito repellent, camera, binoculars
(for birdwatching), and water. A headlamp is provided, but personal
flashlights are useful. Comfortable, lightweight clothing is ideal for
the humid cave.
Best Time to Visit:
Late winter to early
spring (January–April) for dry trails and clearer roads. Low season
(May–November) offers savings but muddy conditions. Check weather
forecasts, as rain can make the hike and drive challenging.
Facilities:
The Morales farm offers a small open-air restaurant for
lunch or cold drinks post-tour, with views of the Macal River valley.
Rustic lodging is available at Che Chem Ha Cave & Resort for overnight
stays. No on-site changing rooms or extensive amenities; bring
essentials.
Safety and Considerations:
The hike and cave
navigation require moderate fitness; the trail is steep, and cave
surfaces can be slick. Not recommended for those with mobility issues or
claustrophobia, though the cave is less confining than Crystal Cave.
Follow guide instructions to avoid damaging artifacts. Heat and humidity
can be intense; stay hydrated.
Birdwatching is a bonus, with species
like toucans and motmots along the trail. Wildlife (e.g., howler
monkeys, iguanas) is present but less common near the cave.
Preservation: The cave’s artifacts are vulnerable to looting,
prompting strict guided-only access. The Morales family and Belize
Institute of Archaeology monitor the site to keep relics in place,
unlike museum transfers at other sites. Visitors must respect
restrictions to maintain this “natural museum.”
Environmental Impact:
Tourism and trail use risk erosion, though the Morales family maintains
clear, canopied paths. Rainy season mud can complicate access, requiring
careful planning.
Cultural Sensitivity: The cave’s sacred status
demands respect; guides emphasize not disturbing artifacts or altars,
preserving the site’s spiritual and historical integrity.