Location: Belize District Map
Ambergris Caye, Belize’s largest island, stretches approximately 25 miles long and up to 4 miles wide, located in the Caribbean Sea just off the northeastern coast of Belize, near the tip of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. Pronounced “am-BUR-gris KEE,” it’s a vibrant destination known for its stunning natural beauty, rich history, and proximity to the Belize Barrier Reef, the second-largest barrier reef in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The island, often called “La Isla Bonita” (inspired by Madonna’s 1987 song, though she clarified it wasn’t specifically about this place), balances laid-back island charm with growing tourism infrastructure, making it a haven for adventurers, retirees, and expats.
Ambergris Caye is a low-lying island formed by coral fragments and
silt from the nearby Rio Hondo, featuring white coral sand beaches,
mangrove swamps, and a dozen lagoons, the largest being the
2.5-mile-long Laguna de San Pedro on the western side. Its eastern coast
runs parallel to the Belize Barrier Reef, just a quarter to half a mile
offshore, creating calm, shallow turquoise waters ideal for marine
activities. The island’s interior is largely mangrove forest, with a
limestone plateau and sandy ridges, much of it preserved as national
park or wildlife reserve, limiting real estate development. To the
north, the Bacalar Chico channel, possibly dug by the Maya for trade or
formed naturally, separates the island from Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.
The island’s climate is tropical, with cooling trade winds
moderating temperatures year-round. The dry season (December to April)
offers sunny days, while the rainy season (June to August) brings
occasional showers but fewer crowds. Ambergris Caye’s natural beauty
includes pristine beaches, cenotes, sinkholes, and caves, particularly
around areas like Secret Beach, a popular west-coast spot with
crystal-clear shallows and lively beach bars.
Ambergris Caye’s history is steeped in ancient and colonial
influences:
Pre-Columbian Era: The Maya inhabited the island as
early as 200 B.C., using it as a trading hub due to its strategic
location. They likely excavated the Bacalar Chico channel to facilitate
canoe-based maritime trade, leaving behind polished red ceramics as
evidence of their presence. By 1508, an estimated 10,000 Maya lived on
the island, trading fish and goods with mainland Belize and Chetumal.
Colonial and Pirate Era: By the 16th–17th centuries, European contact
reduced the Maya population, and pirates from Britain, France, and the
Netherlands used the island’s coves to ambush Spanish ships, hiding
behind the reef’s shallow waters. The island’s name derives from
ambergris, a valuable sperm whale byproduct that washed ashore, prized
for perfume-making. Pirates supplemented incomes with whaling, and small
treasure caches found on the island hint at their presence.
19th
Century: In the 1840s, during Mexico’s Caste War, mestizo and indigenous
refugees settled on Ambergris Caye, founding San Pedro in 1848. These
farmers and fishermen supplied British lumber crews on the mainland. The
island changed hands among British owners, with attempts to grow sea
island cotton failing. Coconuts became a key crop until the 1930s.
Modern Era: Fishing, especially lobster, dominated until tourism emerged
in the late 1950s. The first hotel opened in 1965, and dive shops
followed in the 1970s, capitalizing on the reef’s allure. Tourism
skyrocketed in the 1980s, transforming Ambergris Caye into Belize’s top
destination.
Ambergris Caye’s culture is a vibrant mix of Maya, mestizo, Creole,
and expat influences, with San Pedro Town as its heart. San Pedro, with
a population of about 20,000 (though estimates vary), is a colorful hub
of sandy or faux-cobblestone streets, wooden houses, and a laid-back
vibe reminiscent of the Caribbean decades ago. Most residents, known as
San Pedranos, are descendants of Mexican refugees, speaking English as
the primary language alongside Spanish and Creole. The island’s motto,
“go slow,” reflects its relaxed pace, though tourism has brought hustle
to San Pedro.
Festivals like San Pedro Day (June 27), Carnival,
Lobsterfest (June), and the International Costa Maya Festival (August)
showcase local music, food, and dance. Cuisine blends Belizean staples
(stew chicken, rice and beans, ceviche) with Maya-inspired dishes
(pibil) and fresh seafood like lobster and conch. Notable eateries
include Elvi’s Kitchen for Mayan buffets, Waraguma for lobster burritos,
and the Belize Chocolate Company for craft cacao treats.
Transportation is unique: golf carts are the primary mode, rentable near
the ferry or airport, with companies like Marks Golf Cart Rental
delivering to accommodations. Bicycles and walking are also common, and
sandy streets discourage cars. The island’s expat community, largely
American, is significant, drawn by the relaxed lifestyle and amenities
like high-speed internet, resorts, and a gourmet farmer’s market.
Ambergris Caye’s appeal lies in its aquatic and terrestrial
offerings, centered around the Belize Barrier Reef and the island’s
natural beauty:
Marine Activities: The reef’s proximity makes
Ambergris a global scuba diving and snorkeling hotspot. Key sites
include:
Hol Chan Marine Reserve: A 10-minute boat ride from San
Pedro, it features vibrant corals, sea turtles, nurse sharks, and
stingrays across four zones (The Reef, Seagrass Beds, Mangroves, Shark
Ray Alley).
Great Blue Hole: A 400-foot-deep limestone sinkhole, 1.5
hours by boat, famed for diving with angelfish, elkhorn coral, and
stalactites.
Shark Ray Alley: Ideal for snorkeling with nurse sharks
and stingrays.
Other dive sites like Mexico Rocks, Rocky Point, and
Turneffe Atoll offer diverse marine life. Non-divers can enjoy sailing,
windsurfing, jet-skiing, parasailing, or fishing for bonefish, tarpon,
and permit, with charters targeting the “Grand Slam” catch.
Secret
Beach: On the west coast, this “worst-kept secret” features shallow,
clear waters, beach bars with tables in the sea, and a remote vibe
despite growing popularity. It’s a 45-minute golf cart ride from San
Pedro.
Bacalar Chico National Park and Marine Reserve: In the north,
this protected area offers boat tours through mangroves, wildlife
spotting (birds, crocodiles, manatees), and Maya history.
San Pedro
Town: Explore its markets, shops, and nightlife, with bars and
restaurants like Waraguma and DJs for burgers. The Belize Chocolate
Company and Belizean Breezes offer local souvenirs.
Mainland Day
Trips: Excursions to Maya ruins (Altun Ha, Lamanai), cave-tubing, or
Caye Caulker are easily arranged.
Wildlife and Nature: The island
hosts diverse flora and fauna, including tropical birds, monkeys, and
protected species in its reserves. Mangrove tours and bird-watching are
popular.
Tourism drives Ambergris Caye’s economy, replacing historical
reliance on coconuts and fishing. The island hosts hundreds of thousands
of visitors annually, supported by over 70 hotels, from budget hostels
to luxury resorts like Alaia Belize, SunBreeze Hotel, and the upcoming
Six Senses property. Accommodations range from beachfront bungalows to
upscale villas, with prices higher than mainland Belize due to import
costs (e.g., beachfront condos exceed $500,000; rentals start at
$1,000/month).
San Pedro’s airstrip, serviced by Tropic Air and
Maya Island Air, connects to Belize City (15-minute flight) and other
destinations. Water taxis from Belize City (75 minutes) or Chetumal,
Mexico, and helicopter services like Astrum Helicopters provide
additional access. The island’s tourism infrastructure includes dive
shops, tour operators, and PADI certification programs, catering to
aquatic enthusiasts.
Real estate is limited by conservation
efforts, preserving the island’s natural state but driving up property
costs. Ambergris Caye’s popularity earned it TripAdvisor’s “best island”
award in 2013 and 2014, and its expat-friendly amenities attract
retirees seeking a sophisticated yet relaxed lifestyle.
Cost of Living: Higher than mainland Belize due to imports and
tourism demand. Electricity, gas, and rentals are pricey.
Development
vs. Preservation: While much of the island is protected, tourism growth
strains infrastructure, with some areas like San Pedro feeling busier
than the “go slow” ideal.
Weather: The rainy season may disrupt
plans, though showers are often brief. Hurricane season (June–November)
requires vigilance.
Accessibility: Limited real estate and high costs
can deter long-term stays, though budget options exist.