Nonoch Che'en, Belize

Nonoch Che'en

Description

Nohoch Che’en, commonly referred to as Caves Branch, is a prominent archaeological reserve and adventure destination in the Cayo District of central Belize. Renowned for its extensive network of limestone caves carved by the Caves Branch River, it is one of Belize’s top attractions for cave tubing, kayaking, and exploring ancient Maya history. The name "Nohoch Che’en" translates to “Great Cave” in Yucatec Maya, reflecting its significance as both a natural wonder and a sacred site for the ancient Maya. Spanning a lush jungle landscape, the reserve offers a unique blend of adrenaline-pumping activities, geological marvels, and cultural heritage, drawing thousands of visitors annually, from cruise ship tourists to archaeology enthusiasts.

 

Location and Geography

Nohoch Che’en is located approximately 12 miles (19 km) southeast of Belmopan, Belize’s capital, and about 37 miles (60 km) from Belize City, making it accessible for day trips. The reserve’s entrance is off Mile 37 on the George Price Highway (formerly Western Highway) at Frank’s Eddy Village, followed by a 6-mile chip-sealed road leading to the parking area. The site lies within Belize’s karst landscape, characterized by limestone formations shaped by water erosion over millennia. The Caves Branch River, a clear, slow-moving waterway, flows through 19 interconnected caves, creating a subterranean network that ranges from tight passages to vast chambers.

The reserve’s geography is a textbook example of an “old age” karst landscape, featuring:
Karst Windows: Collapsed cave sections where the river alternates between underground and open-air flow, exposing the jungle above.
Stalactites and Stalagmites: Calcium carbonate formations adorn the caves, some resembling eerie shapes or ancient sculptures.
Meandering Channels: The underground river mimics surface streams, with curves, scallops (erosion patterns indicating water velocity), and gravel beds of chert and silica from the nearby Maya Mountains.
Collapsed Rooms: Large, open chambers where cave roofs have fallen, creating dramatic spaces illuminated by natural light filtering through jungle canopies.
The surrounding area is a broadleaf tropical forest, teeming with biodiversity—mahogany trees, ceiba, orchids, and wildlife like howler monkeys, agoutis, and over 200 bird species, including toucans and motmots. The jungle’s humidity and vibrant greenery enhance the sense of adventure, while the river’s cool waters provide relief from Belize’s tropical heat (averaging 80–90°F year-round).

 

Historical and Cultural Significance

Nohoch Che’en’s caves were sacred to the ancient Maya, who inhabited Belize from around 1500 BC to AD 1200. The Maya viewed caves as portals to Xibalba, the underworld, where gods like Chac (rain deity) resided. Archaeological evidence, documented by experts like Dr. Jaime Awe, reveals the caves’ use for rituals between AD 300 and 900, during the Maya Classic period. Key findings include:

Ceremonial Artifacts: Pottery, obsidian blades, and jade offerings, often broken deliberately as part of rituals to release spiritual essence.
Cave Paintings: Faint Maya glyphs and figures, high on cave ceilings, depict deities or astronomical symbols, visible with headlamps during tours.
Human Remains: Rare skeletal fragments, possibly from sacrifices or burials, though less prevalent than at sites like Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM Cave).
Altar Sites: Natural ledges used for ceremonies, sometimes marked by soot from ancient torches.
The reserve’s 19 caves vary in accessibility, with some, like Crystal Cave (also called St. Herman’s Cave in some contexts), containing well-preserved artifacts accessible only on specialized tours. The Maya likely navigated these caves using pine torches, as evidenced by carbon traces, to conduct rituals tied to agriculture, fertility, or rain. Nohoch Che’en’s proximity to major Maya sites like Xunantunich and Cahal Pech (both within 30 miles) suggests it was part of a broader ceremonial landscape in the Cayo District, a heartland of Maya civilization.

Culturally, Nohoch Che’en reflects Belize’s diverse heritage. The modern Maya (Q’eqchi’, Mopan, and Yucatec descendants) coexist with Mestizo, Creole, and Garifuna communities in the region. Guides, often local Belizeans, share stories blending Maya lore with Creole humor, using Belizean Kriol alongside English, the country’s official language. This multicultural lens enriches tours, connecting visitors to Belize’s living traditions.

 

Activities and Visitor Experience

Nohoch Che’en is synonymous with adventure, particularly cave tubing, which has made it Belize’s top destination for this activity. The reserve offers a range of experiences, customizable based on time, fitness, and interests. Below are the main activities:

Cave Tubing (1.5–3 hours, ~$60 USD per person):
Guests float on inflated inner tubes along the Caves Branch River, guided through two to three caves. The journey begins with a 20–30-minute jungle hike (moderate, with some uneven terrain) to the river’s entry point.
Inside the caves, headlamps reveal stalactites, eyeless cave fish, and Maya paintings. The float is gentle, with occasional ripples, and guides link tubes for safety in deeper sections (3–6 feet).
Highlights include passing through karst windows, where sunlight illuminates the jungle, and spotting bats or swallows darting overhead.
Tours end with a float into an open lagoon, surrounded by tropical flora, followed by a short walk back to the base.

Cave Kayaking (~$65–75 USD):
Similar to tubing but using inflatable kayaks, offering more control and a faster pace. Ideal for those wanting a hands-on experience.

Ziplining (~$25–40 USD add-on):
A canopy zipline course, often paired with tubing, spans the jungle near the reserve, offering views of the Caves Branch valley and distant Maya Mountains.

Crystal Cave Exploration (3–5 hours, ~$95–125 USD):
A more strenuous tour involving hiking, crawling, and wading through side passages to reach Crystal Cave, known for sparkling calcite formations and intact Maya pottery.
Requires agility and a small group (max 8–10), with guides emphasizing respect for artifacts. Not recommended for claustrophobics.

Combined Tours (~$85–150 USD):
Full-day packages pair Nohoch Che’en with nearby attractions like Xunantunich Maya ruins, Belize Zoo, or ziplining. Lunch (often rice and beans with stewed chicken) is typically included.

Jungle Hiking (free or guided, ~$20 USD):
Self-guided or guided trails showcase the reserve’s flora and fauna, with chances to see leafcutter ants, morpho butterflies, or kinkajous.

The visitor experience is highly rated, with TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Award recognizing Nohoch Che’en for consistent reviews praising its guides’ knowledge and enthusiasm. Guests highlight the balance of relaxation (floating through caves) and adventure (hiking, exploring side passages). Local guides like Reggie, often mentioned in reviews, customize tours, sharing insights on Maya history or pointing out wildlife, and may connect visitors to artisans selling butterfly art or coconut drinks at the market near the entrance.

 

Infrastructure and Accessibility

The reserve is well-equipped for tourism, reflecting Belize’s focus on eco-adventure:
Facilities: Restrooms, changing areas, lockers, and a small market with snacks and crafts. Life vests, helmets, and headlamps are provided for tubing and kayaking.
Guides: Mandatory for cave entry, ensuring safety and preservation. Rates vary ($5 USD entry + $50–65 USD guide for basic tours; higher for specialized ones).
Connectivity: A 4G LTE tower installed by Belize Telemedia in 2023 at Frank’s Eddy enhances mobile service, allowing real-time photo uploads—a boon for cruise ship visitors.
Access: The road is paved, suitable for rental cars or shuttles. Self-drive options cost less but exclude lunch or transport, unlike organized tours from Belize City or San Ignacio (~$80–100 USD with transfers).
The reserve operates daily, with tours starting as early as 8 AM. The dry season (February–May) is ideal, with lower water levels ensuring smoother tubing, though the wet season (June–November) adds lush scenery and faster currents.

 

Ecological and Conservation Context

Nohoch Che’en lies within Belize’s Mesoamerican Biological Corridor, a biodiversity hotspot. The reserve’s caves and forests support unique ecosystems:
Fauna: Cave-dwelling species like blind fish and bats thrive alongside jungle residents—jaguars (rarely seen), ocelots, and parrots.
Flora: Orchids, bromeliads, and hardwood trees (mahogany, sapodilla) dominate, with medicinal plants like copal used by the Maya.
Geology: The limestone caves, formed over 100,000 years, are part of Belize’s largest cave system, rivaled only by Chiquibul in the south.
Conservation is a priority, with guides enforcing strict no-touch policies for artifacts and formations. Tourism revenue supports the Belize Audubon Society and local communities, though challenges persist—illegal logging and limestone quarrying in nearby areas threaten karst landscapes. Nohoch Che’en’s status as a protected reserve helps mitigate these risks, but its popularity requires careful management to prevent overcrowding.