Death Valley

Death Valley

 

 

Location: Eastern California  Map

 

Description of Death Valley

Death Valley is situated in the Eastern California within borders of the Mojave Desert. Despite its grim name this endless expanse of land draws thousands of tourists annually to view landscapes that have no equals anywhere else in the World. Death Valley is intermountain basin in the west of the US state of California bordered by Telescope Peak in the West and Dante's View in the East. It is also the lowest point in North America at 86 meters below sea level. On July 10, 1913 the highest temperature on Earth was recorded at 56.7 Celsius. National park that protects this unique biosphere covers 3.3 million acres, making it the largest park in the United States. Its grim name of Death Valley was given by early American immigrants who crossed it in 1849 who crossed these barren lands to get to the gold mines of California. Many settlers remained here forever.
 
One of the most unique features of the Death Valley are so called "sailing stones". These are boulders of various sizes that seem to move on their own, leaving behind long visible tracks. Some stone measure as much as half a ton in weight. First such "sailing stones" were recorded in the early 20th century, however it took decades to figure out the reason for such seemingly miraculous movement. The explanation is rather simple and quiet materialistic. At night upper layers of the sand of the Death Valley freeze and form a thin layer of ice. Winds that blow through Death Valley "push" boulders across ice thus propelling it forwards.

 

Fees and permits

A seven-day pass with unlimited re-entry is $30 for a standard vehicle (car, truck or van) and $15 for each individual traveling on foot, motorcycle, or bicycle.

There are several passes for groups traveling together in a private vehicle or individuals on foot or on bike. These passes provide free entry at national parks and national wildlife refuges, and also cover standard amenity fees at national forests and grasslands, and at lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management and Bureau of Reclamation. These passes are valid at all national parks including Death Valley National Park:

The $80 Annual Pass (valid for twelve months from date of issue) can be purchased by anyone. Military personnel can obtain a free annual pass in person at a federal recreation site by showing a Common Access Card (CAC) or Military ID.
U.S. citizens or permanent residents age 62 or over can obtain a Senior Pass (valid for the life of the holder) in person at a federal recreation site for $80, or through the mail for $90; applicants must provide documentation of citizenship and age. This pass also provides a fifty percent discount on some park amenities. Seniors can also obtain a $20 annual pass.
U.S. citizens or permanent residents with permanent disabilities can obtain an Access Pass (valid for the life of the holder) in person at a federal recreation site at no charge, or through the mail for $10; applicants must provide documentation of citizenship and permanent disability. This pass also provides a fifty percent discount on some park amenities.
Individuals who have volunteered 250 or more hours with federal agencies that participate in the Interagency Pass Program can receive a free Volunteer Pass.
4th graders can receive an Annual 4th Grade Pass that allows free entry for the duration of the 4th grade school year (September-August) to the bearer and any accompanying passengers in a private non-commercial vehicle. Registration at the Every Kid in a Park website is required.
In 2018 the National Park Service will offer four days on which entry is free for all national parks: January 15 (Martin Luther King Jr. Day), April 21 (1st Day of NPS Week), September 22 (National Public Lands Day), and November 11 (Veterans Day weekend).

Unlike other national parks, few of the roads into Death Valley National Park have road-blocking ranger-manned fee booths. You are expected to pay the entrance fee though, and there are automatic kiosks at several places in the park.

 

Name origin

The valley got its name after two groups of travelers with a total of about 100 wagons were looking for a shortcut of the Old Spanish Trail in 1849 and ended up in the valley. After being unable to find a way out of the valley for weeks and already being forced to eat several of their oxen (using the wood from their wagons for fuel), they abandoned their remaining wagons and exited the valley via Wingate Pass. One of the women from the group turned around and shouted “Goodbye, Death Valley” after the valley.

Despite a widespread legend, none of the group is said to have died crossing the valley, except for an old man named Culverwell, who was deathly exhausted when entering the valley.[3] As a member of the tour group, William Lewis Manly described the events in his autobiographical work Death Valley in '49.

 

Geography

Death Valley is part of the endorheic Great Basin. The Amargosa Range bounds the valley to the east and the Panamint Range separates it from the Panamint Valley to the west.

The Badwater Basin is the deepest accessible point in North America at 85.95 meters below sea level, about 2 meters lower than the basin filled by the Salton Sea today. The highest point in the contiguous United States, Mount Whitney (4421 m), is just under 140 kilometers northwest. After heavy rainfall, the Amargosa River periodically flows through the valley before its water seeps away or evaporates there.

 

Geology

There have been at least four periods of active volcanism, three or four periods of sediment deposition, and some plate tectonic shifts in Death Valley in the past. In addition, the area was glaciated at least twice.

 

Natural resources

The valley is rich in metals such as gold and silver, and minerals such as talc and borax. A mining company worked here for many years, extracting borax for soap production. The finished product was transported out of the valley in large wagons, each drawn by 18 mules and two horses. Hence the brand name 20-Mule-Team.

 

Climate

Although Death Valley is only a few hundred kilometers from the Pacific Ocean, it is one of the driest places on earth. This is because the humid winds on their way from the Pacific rain down five ridges before they can sweep across the park's territory. Death Valley is also one of the hottest places in America.

On July 10, 1913, a temperature of 56.7 °C (134 °F) was recorded at Greenland Ranch (now known as Furnace Creek Ranch) by the National Weather Service, which is the highest temperature ever recorded on earth. However, some meteorologists, supported by more recent studies, attribute this result to an error in observation. While the 1913 reading continues to be officially recognized as the world heat record, the temperature of 130°F (54.4°C) recorded by an automated National Weather Service measurement system on July 10, 2021 at Furnace Creek is the highest yet undisputed on record air temperature measured on earth. A day later, another station in Death Valley reported the highest nighttime temperature in North American history at 42 °C (107.7 °F).

On July 12, 2012, the then highest night-time temperature in the world was measured in Death Valley at 41.7 °C (107 °F); this value was surpassed on June 17, 2017 in al-Khazab in Oman on the Arabian Peninsula with 44.2 °C (111.6 °F).

After an unusually heavy rainfall for the area on August 5, 2022 (at Furnace Creek 37 mm were measured), mudslides occurred and all access roads were damaged. Hundreds of visitors who came by car were locked up by the morning of August 7, cars were moved and damaged. In the history of measurements since 1911, rain has only been measured once on a day.

 

Fauna

The fauna is relatively diverse with over 400 species: These include 51 native mammal species, 307 bird species, 36 reptile species and three amphibian species. It is possible to encounter lonely roaming coyotes, mostly thin in stature. These animals are able to feed on almost all small animals and plant parts. They like to rummage through the leftovers and other rubbish left by tourists. Other mammals found in the park include kit foxes, bobcats, cougars and mule deer. Snakes usually only leave their hiding place at night, while the more numerous lizards inhabit rock crevices and crevices. Bighorn sheep live in and around the park. These are a subspecies of mountain sheep that live in small, isolated flocks in the Sierra Nevada and Death Valley. These highly adaptable animals can eat almost any type of plant. They have no natural enemies but compete with humans for habitat.

Death Valley National Park is a stopover and resting place for many migratory birds on their way through: Swallows, ibises and mallards can be observed, especially in spring. Only a few birds are native all year round; this includes the great roadrunner, also known as the roadrunner. Six species of fish from the Cyprinodontidae family live in the national park: Five species belong to the genus of desert medaka, including the endangered, endemic devil medaka, of which there were only around 100 specimens left in April 2011. Another species is the human-introduced koboldfish, a highly invasive species of fish.

 

Flora

The national park has over 1000 plant species; this includes 23 endemic species. Vegetation varies with elevation: sparse shrubbery such as the creosote bush and scattered plants of the genera Prosopis and Reporten in the valley, Joshua yucca, Slender Pine and Long-life Pine in the higher elevations. Striking are salt herbs, bushes rolling around freely in the wind. Adaptation is key to surviving in one of the driest, hottest places in North America: Loggers can develop a root system up to 15 meters long to reach deep groundwater. The leaves of Atriplex hymenelytra are coated with salt on the surface; this leads to the reflection of the sunlight and thus to a reduction in evaporation. A few rainy days in winter lead to short flowering times in some regions of the park; nevertheless, neither the low rainfall nor the overall sparse biomass are sufficient to form even remotely fertile soil. Every few years it rains more than usual, including 2016, 2005 and 1998. Then Death Valley turns into a sea of flowers.

 

Interesting places

Artist's Palette
Artist's Palette is on the slopes of the Black Mountains, which run parallel to the Panamint Range and enclose a rift valley; it is famous for its multicolored rock formations. The richness of color is caused by oxidation of various metals found in the rocks; for example iron (red to dark red) or copper (turquoise to green).

Badwater Basin
Badwater is the lowest point in the United States (85.95 meters below sea level) (♁36° 13′ 49″ N, 116° 46′ 3″ W). The hexagonal structures seen here are around 2 to 2.5 m in diameter and are part of a much larger and also hexagonal structure that can be observed from Dante's View, around 1750 meters higher. These structures are created by drying and the associated expansion of the salt crystals that occur here. There is a weather station near the flat salt pan, where temperatures of over 50 °C are regularly measured in summer. The salt pan was formed when a lake that was up to 200 m deep dried up 3000 years ago.

Barker ranch
The Barker Ranch site is located approximately 15 miles northeast of Searles Lake and Trona, California. The exact coordinates are ♁35° 51′ 34.4″ N, 117° 5′ 17.4″ W. It can only be reached via unpaved sand and gravel roads. Originally it was just a hut, built in 1937 by a former police officer and expanded over the following years. After his death, his widow sold the ranch to the Barker family. Barker Ranch became known as Charles Manson's last hideout. He stayed there with his sect (the so-called Manson Family) after they had committed brutal murders in Los Angeles. The members of the sect were arrested in two raids at the ranch on October 10 and October 12, 1969 respectively. The abandoned ranch is now owned by the National Park Service. A ground survey was undertaken in 2008 following indications that the bodies of other possible Manson Family victims may be buried on the site. However, the suspicion was not confirmed. In 2009, the buildings burned down in a fire.

Charcoal Kilns
The site was established in 1867 to produce charcoal, which was used to process ores found in Death Valley. However, the charcoal burning was given up again just three years after it had started.

Dante's View
Dante's View overlooks Death Valley at an altitude of 1669 m above sea level. Like Artists Palette, it belongs to the Black Mountains. From there you can see the central part of Death Valley and have a view of the Badwater Basin. You can also see the Telescope Peak with its 3366 meter high summit. The valley stretches from left (south) to right (north); in its center you can see a dry salt lake.

Devil's Golf Course
These jagged and jagged salt structures have led early visitors to believe that this inhospitable place must have been the devil's golf course.

Hidden Valley
The valley is in a remote area on the western side of the Cottonwood Mountains above Racetrack Valley. A variety of old abandoned mines are scattered throughout the valley. The dried-up valley, with little vegetation in summer, can turn into a snow-covered landscape in winter and surprise with a sea of flowers in spring.

Lipscott Rd
The Lippencott Road connects the racetrack to the Saline Valley. At the top of the road, on the west side of the Cottonwood Mountains, is the old Lippencott lead mine. Like many roads in Death Valley, the park administration only maintains the Lippencott Road at irregular intervals in order to limit mass tourism. Signs therefore warn against use with off-road vehicles.

Mesquite Sand Dunes
Located in the northern part of the valley, the 4km² Mesquite Sand Dunes have been used as a desert backdrop many times in films including Star Wars. The largest dune is the Star Dune. This is quite stable, since the wind tends to deposit the sand at exactly this point. The sand here is around 50 meters high.

Mesquite Springs
Mesquite Springs is the northernmost part of Death Valley. There are numerous cacti in this part of the valley. Above the spring there are 2000 to 3000 year old petroglyphs of the extinct Mesquite Springs culture.

Mosaic Canyon
Mosaic Canyon is located in the northwestern mountainous part of the valley. It is named for its patterned rock faces. The deposits from different rock formations (breccia) form varied patterns. The predominant rock deposit is dolomite, a type of limestone formed in a warm shallow sea that covered the Death Valley area 750 million years ago.

Racetrack Playa
The shifting rocks of Racetrack Playa leave traces of movement across a nearly year-round dry lake bed. In 2014, the cause of the movements could be clarified with the help of GPS and time-lapse recordings.

Rainbow Canyon
Rainbow Canyon runs through the Inyo Mountains in the west of the park and connects the lower Owens Valley in the west with the Panamint Valley in the east. It is used by the US Air Force and US Navy pilots as a training ground for low level and terrain following flight. Due to the depth of the canyon, it is possible to watch the fighter planes in flight from above against the ground.

Salt Creek
Most of Salt Creek is mostly dry and covered in a brilliant white layer of salt. This is caused by regular flooding and the subsequent evaporation of the water. Much of the salt inflow comes from brackish streams that flow year-round. Here is also the last remnant of the former Lake Manly.

Shoreline Butte
This mesa used to be an island in prehistoric lakes that filled Death Valley during Ice Ages.

Telescope Peak
Telescope Peak is the highest point in the park at 3,366 meters above sea level and is located in the Panamint Range.

Titus Canyon
Titus Canyon cuts into a Precambrian sea floor. Leadfield is a ghost town near Titus Canyon that was founded in the 1920's after a rumor spread that mining in the area was profitable.

Fix Crater
Ubehebe Crater is a maar about a kilometer in diameter and up to 230 meters deep. Its age was originally estimated at around 6000 to 7000 years; according to a more recent study from 2012, the age is only around 800 years. Ubehebe is a Native American word meaning "big basket in the rock". The crater was formed when hot magma surged near the surface of the earth, explosively evaporating groundwater.

Such phreatomagmatic explosions occurred more frequently in the area, but Ubehebe Crater is the most striking example. The coordinates are: ♁37° 0′ 35″ N, 117° 27′ 1″ W There is a series of gray deposits near the crater rim; further down the deposits become lighter. The gray deposits are from more recent, similar explosions. The lighter deposits are old sedimentary rocks.

Ventifact Ridge
Ventifact Ridge is a ridge formed by lava flow. The rocks found on this ridge are famous for having been eroded into a wide variety of shapes by wind. The wind blows very strongly here, and the sand that is thrown up acts on the rocks like a sandblaster.

Zabriskie Point
Zabriskie Point is known for its bizarre erosion landscapes. The rock formations are the sediments of the former Lake Zabriskie, which dried up nine million years ago.

Other locations in the park
Aguereberry Point
Crankshaft Junction
Desolation Canyon
Devil's Cornfield
Furnace Creek
Lake Manly
Myer's ranch
Scotty's Castle
Skidoo
Stovepipe Wells
Willow Springs