Historic Columbia River Highway, USA

The Historic Columbia River Highway, often abbreviated as HCRH, is a roughly 75-mile scenic byway in Oregon, stretching from Troutdale (near Portland) eastward through the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area to The Dalles. Designated as America's first planned scenic roadway and a National Historic Landmark, it winds along the southern bank of the mighty Columbia River, showcasing dramatic basalt cliffs, lush temperate rainforests, and over a dozen waterfalls cascading from the gorge walls. Engineered with elegant viaducts, tunnels, and stone guardrails, the highway offers a blend of natural wonders and early 20th-century architecture, with no commercial development to interrupt the views. It's ideal for leisurely drives at 35-45 mph, cycling on car-free sections, and accessing hiking trails. Managed by the Oregon Department of Transportation, U.S. Forest Service, and Oregon State Parks, it's free to access, though some sites require permits for parking or hiking.

 

History in Depth

Conceived in the 1910s by visionary engineer Samuel C. Lancaster and philanthropist Simon Benson, the HCRH was constructed between 1913 and 1922 as part of the Progressive Era's push for accessible public recreation and tourism. Inspired by European alpine roads, it was designed to harmonize with the landscape, featuring low-speed curves, moss-covered stonework, and viewpoints that "reveal the beauty of the gorge." It opened the Columbia River Gorge—a 80-mile canyon carved by Ice Age floods—to automobiles, boosting regional economies through tourism. By the 1950s, much of the original route was bypassed by the faster Interstate 84 (Water Level Route), leading to abandonment and decay until restoration efforts in the 1980s-2000s revived segments as a state trail for non-motorized use. Today, it commemorates indigenous history (the gorge was home to tribes like the Multnomah and Wasco for millennia), Lewis and Clark's 1805 expedition, and the Civilian Conservation Corps' 1930s enhancements, with interpretive signs highlighting geology, ecology, and cultural significance.

 

The Route: Major Stops and Highlights

The highway is best driven west to east, following the river's flow, and can be completed in 3-5 hours non-stop, but plan 1-2 days for explorations. It's divided into three main segments: the western "Waterfall Corridor" (Troutdale to Ainsworth), the central restored trail sections, and the eastern drier plateau to The Dalles. Mileposts aren't consistently used, but distances from Troutdale provide reference. Below is a detailed list of key stops, organized west to east, with descriptions, significance, and activities. This focuses on highlights among dozens of pullouts and trails.

Section: Western Waterfall Corridor (Miles 0-30 from Troutdale)Key Stops: Portland Women's Forum State Scenic Viewpoint (Mile 3); Vista House at Crown Point (Mile 4); Latourell Falls (Mile 6); Shepperd's Dell Falls (Mile 8); Bridal Veil Falls (Mile 9); Wahkeena Falls (Mile 12); Multnomah Falls (Mile 13); Oneonta Gorge (Mile 15); Horsetail Falls (Mile 16)Description and Significance: Begins with sweeping gorge panoramas from the Women's Forum overlook, honoring the highway's female advocates. Vista House, a 1918 octagonal observatory atop a 733-ft promontory, serves as a memorial and info center with Art Nouveau details. Waterfalls abound: Latourell plunges 249 ft over columnar basalt; Multnomah, at 620 ft, is Oregon's tallest with a historic lodge and Benson Footbridge. Oneonta features a slot canyon hike through chest-deep water (seasonal). These sites showcase the gorge's volcanic geology and misty microclimate.Activities and Tips: Short hikes (e.g., 0.2-mile paved path to Latourell base); photography from viewpoints; picnicking at Multnomah Lodge. Tip: Start early to avoid crowds; timed-entry permits required for Multnomah area (May-Sept, $1 online); watch for rockfall and slippery trails.
Section: Central Gorge (Miles 30-50)Key Stops: Ainsworth State Park (Mile 30); Elowah Falls (Mile 32, via trail); Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail (various access points); Beacon Rock (Mile 35, across river in WA but visible); Bonneville Dam (Mile 40); Eagle Creek Trail (Mile 42); Cascade Locks (Mile 45)Description and Significance: Transitions to forested canyons with the car-free State Trail (restored HCRH segments for biking/hiking). Bonneville Dam, a 1930s New Deal project, includes fish ladders for salmon viewing. Eagle Creek features Punch Bowl Falls in a basalt amphitheater. Cascade Locks marks the site of historic rapids now submerged by the dam, with the Bridge of the Gods tying to Native legends.Activities and Tips: Biking the 14-mile trail from Hood River to Mosier (rentals available); salmon watching (Sept-Oct); camping at Ainsworth ($22/night). Tip: Detour north via Bridge of the Gods for Washington views; check for trail closures due to wildfires.
Section: Eastern Plateau (Miles 50-75 to The Dalles)Key Stops: Hood River (Mile 50, detour); Mitchell Point Overlook (Mile 55); Rowena Crest and Tom McCall Preserve (Mile 65); Memaloose Overlook (Mile 70); Columbia Gorge Discovery Center (Mile 75 in The Dalles)Description and Significance: Landscape shifts to arid grasslands and oak savannas. Rowena Crest offers hairpin turns and wildflower meadows (peak April-May). Memaloose provides river views with indigenous history ties. The Discovery Center museum interprets gorge ecology, Lewis and Clark, and pioneer trails.Activities and Tips: Wildflower hikes at Tom McCall (2-mile loop); windsurfing in Hood River (world-renowned spot); museum visits ($10 entry). Tip: End with fruit stands in Hood River Valley; watch for strong winds affecting driving.

 

Activities

Driving: The primary experience—curvy, two-lane road with pullouts for vistas; RVs under 35 ft recommended due to tight turns.
Biking/Hiking: Over 100 miles of trails, including the Eagle Creek to Tunnel Falls (12 miles round-trip) and car-free State Trail segments; e-bikes allowed on some paths.
Camping: Options like Ainsworth State Park (tents/RVs, reservations advised) or primitive sites; nearby RV parks in Hood River.
Other: Windsurfing/kiteboarding in the gorge's winds; wildlife viewing (osprey, salmon); wine tasting in Hood River Valley; sternwheeler cruises from Cascade Locks. Detours to Mt. Hood or Washington side add variety.

 

Best Times to Visit and Tips

Spring (April-June) for waterfalls at peak flow and wildflowers; summer (July-Aug) for warm weather but crowds; fall (Sept-Oct) for foliage and salmon runs; avoid winter due to ice/snow closures. Year-round access, but check ODOT alerts for rockslides or fires (e.g., post-2017 Eagle Creek Fire recovery). Download offline maps for spotty cell service; fuel up in towns as no services on the highway. Respect nature—stay on trails to prevent erosion; leashed pets allowed but not in some buildings. For families or accessibility, focus on viewpoints like Vista House; permits needed for popular hikes ($5/day via Recreation.gov).