Lancaster (called the Red Rose City) is a city of 58,039 people (2020 census) in southern Pennsylvania and the county seat of Lancaster County. From the major cities of Philadelphia, Baltimore, Harrisburg and Washington D.C. it is between 55 and 140 kilometers away.
Lancaster, Pennsylvania, often referred to as the "Red Rose City" due
to its historical ties to the House of Lancaster in England, is one of
the oldest inland cities in the United States. Located in south-central
Pennsylvania, it serves as the county seat of Lancaster County. The area
was originally inhabited by Indigenous peoples, including the
Susquehannock (also known as Conestoga), before European settlement.
Lancaster's history is marked by its role in colonial expansion, the
American Revolution, industrial growth, and modern preservation efforts.
Today, it is known for its rich Amish community, vibrant arts scene, and
historic architecture, with a population of around 58,000 as of recent
estimates. The city's grid layout, centered on Penn Square, reflects its
planned origins, and it boasts one of the largest urban historic
districts in the nation, encompassing over 14,000 buildings.
Founding and Colonial Era (1681–1775)
The roots of Lancaster trace
back to William Penn's establishment of the Pennsylvania colony in 1681
as a haven for religious freedom, particularly for Quakers. Early
European settlers, including Swiss Mennonites, Germans, Scots-Irish, and
English immigrants, began arriving in the region around 1710, drawn by
fertile farmland in the Conestoga Valley. By the 1720s, the population
had grown significantly, with about 3,500 residents in the area by 1729.
In 1729, Lancaster County was carved out of Chester County to address
administrative challenges posed by the distance to the county seat in
Chester (up to 100 miles away). A petition from settlers highlighted
issues like poor infrastructure, difficulty in accessing justice, and
the area becoming a haven for outlaws. Governor Patrick Gordon approved
the creation of the county on May 10, 1729, naming it after Lancashire,
England, likely at the suggestion of local leader John Wright, a native
of the region. The county seat was established in Gibson's Pasture,
where a temporary courthouse and jail were built. The first elections
were held that fall, with eight justices of the peace appointed.
The
city of Lancaster itself was laid out in 1730 by James Hamilton on a
grid pattern, officially becoming a "townstead" that year. It was
incorporated as a borough in 1742. Early economy revolved around
agriculture, fur trading, and craftsmanship. The area hosted diverse
religious groups, including Anabaptists fleeing persecution in Europe.
In 1744, Lancaster served as the site for treaty negotiations between
the colonies (Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Virginia) and the Six Nations
of the Iroquois, solidifying alliances and land claims. By 1760,
Lancaster had grown into the largest inland town in America.
Slavery
was present in colonial Lancaster, with enslaved individuals working as
ironworkers, farmhands, and household servants, though the Quaker
influence led to early abolitionist sentiments.
Revolutionary War
Period (1775–1783)
Lancaster played a pivotal role during the
American Revolution, earning a reputation as a munitions center due to
its production of rifles, gunpowder, and wagons for the Continental
Army. The city's Scots-Irish settlers were known for their independent
spirit, which drew British attention and led to several skirmishes.
Local militias were organized, including the 1st Battalion under Colonel
Phillip Greenawalt in 1777 and others throughout the war.
A defining
moment came on September 27, 1777, when the Continental Congress,
fleeing British-occupied Philadelphia, convened in Lancaster's
courthouse, making it the nation's capital for just one day before
moving to York for safety. Notable figures included John Hubley and John
Miller, local leaders involved in revolutionary activities. The war also
fostered unique stories, such as the friendship between British Major
John André (later executed as a spy) and local Quaker Caleb Cope during
André's imprisonment in Lancaster in 1775–1776.
19th Century:
Growth, State Capital, and Industrialization (1784–1900)
Post-Revolution, Lancaster served as Pennsylvania's state capital from
1799 to 1812, with the legislature meeting in the courthouse until the
capital moved to Harrisburg for better centrality. The city was
incorporated in 1818, and its population grew from about 6,000 to over
50,000 by century's end, fueled by immigration and industrialization.
Infrastructure boomed: The Philadelphia & Lancaster Turnpike, America's
first hard-surfaced road, was completed in 1795. The Conestoga
Slackwater Canal opened in the early 1800s, and the Columbia and
Philadelphia Railroad followed in 1834, enhancing trade. Industries like
textiles, ironworks, and tobacco processing thrived, giving the city a
Victorian character with rowhouses, factories, and grand buildings.
Lancaster was a key stop on the Underground Railroad, aiding enslaved
people escaping to freedom, reflecting its abolitionist leanings. Native
son James Buchanan became the 15th U.S. President in 1857, though his
presidency is often criticized for failing to avert the Civil War. His
home, Wheatland, remains a landmark. Franklin and Marshall College was
founded in 1787, adding to educational growth.
During the Civil War,
Lancaster supported the Union with troops and supplies, though it faced
threats from Confederate invasions in 1863.
20th Century to
Present: Modernization and Preservation (1901–Today)
The 20th century
brought architectural shifts, with Colonial Revival and Art Deco styles
prominent in buildings like theaters and public structures. Lancaster
surrendered its ancient charter in the early 1900s to become a Third
Class City under state laws. Industries diversified into manufacturing
(e.g., Armstrong Cork Company), but post-WWII suburbanization led to
urban challenges like decline in the city core.
Preservation efforts
intensified in the late 20th century. In 2001, Lancaster's historic
district was listed on the National Register, covering three square
miles and emphasizing Victorian-era structures. The city became a
Certified Local Government for historic preservation. Modern
developments include the 21st-century Marriott Hotel and Convention
Center at Penn Square and the Ware Center.
Today, Lancaster's economy
focuses on healthcare, tourism (attracting millions for Amish culture
and history), and education. Institutions like Lancaster Bible College
(founded 1933) contribute to its vibrancy. The city celebrates its
African American heritage through sites linked to the Underground
Railroad and black leaders. Ongoing revitalization balances growth with
heritage, making Lancaster a model for historic urban living.
Lancaster, Pennsylvania, often referring to both the city and its
surrounding Lancaster County, is situated in the southeastern part of
the state. The city serves as the county seat and is a central hub of
Pennsylvania Dutch Country, known for its rich Amish heritage and
agricultural landscapes. Geographically, Lancaster lies approximately 70
miles west of Philadelphia, 59 miles southwest of Allentown, and 61
miles west of Philadelphia, placing it in the heart of the Susquehanna
River Valley. The region is part of the broader Piedmont physiographic
province, characterized by fertile lowlands that make it one of the most
productive agricultural areas in the United States.
Lancaster County
encompasses a total area of 984 square miles (including the Susquehanna
River), or 951 square miles excluding the river, making it a moderately
sized county in Pennsylvania. Its coordinates center around latitude
40°02’31.77” N and longitude 76°14’51.35” W, with the county courthouse
at 40°02’21.24” N, 76°18’13.76” W. The city itself covers about 7 square
miles at an elevation of 368 feet above sea level. Adjacent counties
include Chester to the east, Berks to the northeast, Lebanon to the
north, Dauphin to the northwest, York to the west, and Cecil County,
Maryland, to the south.
The topography of Lancaster County is predominantly a hilly piedmont
region, featuring rolling hills and gentle valleys that transition into
more pronounced elevations in certain areas. This landscape is part of
the middle Susquehanna River Basin, with terrain that varies from broad
agricultural plains to low-lying hill ranges. The highest point in the
county reaches 1,183 feet above sea level in West Cocalico Township,
north of Deer Road, while the lowest point dips to 115 feet at the edge
of the Susquehanna River in Fulton Township. To the west, the South
Mountains provide a natural barrier along the Susquehanna River,
contributing to the area's scenic diversity.
These rolling hills are
extensively used for farming, creating a patchwork of fertile fields
that define the visual character of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. The
piedmont setting results from ancient geological processes, including
uplift and erosion, which have sculpted the land into its current form.
Notable parks, such as Susquehannock State Park near Muddy Run
Reservoir, highlight the area's natural beauty with overlooks and trails
traversing these elevations.
Water features play a crucial role in Lancaster's geography, with the
mighty Susquehanna River forming the western boundary of the county.
This major waterway, one of the longest rivers on the East Coast,
creates impoundments such as Lakes Clarke and Aldred, as well as the
larger Conowingo Reservoir to the south. The river not only defines the
county's edge but also influences local ecosystems, providing habitats
for wildlife and opportunities for recreation.
Other significant
bodies of water include the Conestoga River, which flows through the
central part of the county and into the Susquehanna, along with
tributaries like Chickies Creek, Little Conestoga Creek, Pequea Creek,
and Conowingo Creek. To the northwest, Conewago Creek marks part of the
boundary, while Octoraro Creek delineates the southeast edge, feeding
into Octoraro Lake. These streams and creeks contribute to the region's
fertility by depositing nutrient-rich sediments across the valleys.
Muddy Run Reservoir, located near Susquehannock State Park, is another
key feature, used for pumped-storage hydroelectricity and offering
scenic views.
Lancaster experiences a humid continental climate, typical of
southeastern Pennsylvania, with four distinct seasons. Winters are
moderately cold, with average January temperatures around 29.1°F, while
summers are warm and humid, averaging 74.4°F in July. The annual average
temperature is about 52.2°F. Precipitation is fairly consistent
throughout the year, totaling around 43 inches of rain and 31 inches of
snow annually.
The region's position exposes it to occasional severe
weather, including remnants of Caribbean hurricanes that can bring high
winds and heavy rainfall, particularly in late summer and fall. This
climate supports the area's agriculture, with ample moisture and a
growing season long enough for crops like corn, tobacco, and dairy
production. Climate change trends, such as warmer temperatures and
increased precipitation variability, are increasingly noted in local
reports, but the core humid continental pattern remains dominant.
The city has a high percentage of ethnic minorities compared to the
rest of the country. It is a popular home for many Puerto Ricans and
Latinos from other countries. In 2000, 24.34% of Lancastrians were
Puerto Ricans, the highest percentage in the state. Since 1980, a Puerto
Rican festival has been held once a year. There is a high concentration
of Amish farms to the east of the city, and horse carriages are common
there.
At the 2000 census there were 56,348 people, 20,933
households, and 12,162 families living in the city. The population
density was 2,940/km2 (7,616.5/mi2). There were 23,024 housing units at
an average density of 3,112.1/mi2 (1,201.3/km2). The racial makeup of
the city was 61.55% European American, 14.09% African American, 0.44%
Native American, 2.46% Asian, 0.08% Pacific Islander, 17.44% from other
races, and 3.94% from two or more races. 30.76% of the population were
Hispanic or Latino of any race.
There were 20,933 households, out
of which 31.6% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 33.4%
were married couples living together, 19.0% had a female householder
with no husband present, and 41.9% were non-families. Alone individuals
made up 33.1% of all households, and those over the age of 65 living
alone made up 9.9%. The average household size was 2.52 and the average
family size was 3.23.
The population was spread out with 27.5%
under the age of 18, 13.9% from 18 to 24, 30.5% from 25 to 44, 17.7%
from 45 to 64, and 10.5% who were 65 years of age or older. The median
age was 30 years. For every 100 females, there were 95.2 males. For
every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 91.4 males.
The
median income for a household there was $29,770, and for a family was
$34,623. Males had a median income of $27,833 versus $21,862 for
females. The per capita income for the city was U$13,955. About 17.9% of
families and 21.2% of the population were living in poverty, as were
29.2% of those under the age of 18 and 12.9% of those 65 or over.
Compared to the surrounding area, the unemployment rate in Lancaster is relatively high at 7.8%; in the south-eastern parts of the city it was even over 10% in 1999. At the same time, only 4.9% of the county were unemployed. Around 34,900 new jobs were created between 1999 and 2002, but many people, especially in the southeast, still live on the subsistence level.
Lancaster is home to Franklin & Marshall College, a college named after Benjamin Franklin and John Marshall. Those who want to study for a teaching degree in Lancaster County will usually attend the neighboring Millersville University of Pennsylvania (also in Lancaster County).
William Henry (1729–1786), politician, armourer, arms dealer and
inventor
John Gibson (≈1740–1822), two-time territorial governor of
Indiana
Robert Smith (1757–1842), politician, the 2nd Secretary of
the Navy and the 6th Secretary of State
Simon Snyder (1759–1819),
third governor of Pennsylvania
Benjamin Smith Barton (1766–1815),
botanist
Jenkin Whiteside (1772–1822), U.S. Senator for Tennessee
Alexander McNair (1775–1826), Governor of Missouri
John Rhea Barton
(1794–1871), surgeon, namesake of Barton's fracture and pioneer of
arthroplasty
John Wise (1808–1879), balloonist
John Fulton
Reynolds (1820–1863), US Army Major General, killed at the Battle of
Gettysburg
Charles Demuth (1883–1935), painter
Leo Houck
(1888–1950), boxer
Richard Winters (1918–2011), Major in the US Army
Peck Morrison (1919–1988), jazz musician
John D. Anderson, Jr. (b.
1937), engineer
Carl H. Ernst (1938–2018), herpetologist
Bob Lutz
(born 1947), tennis player
Colin McLarty (born 1951), mathematical
logician, philosopher and historian of mathematics
Paul Imm (born
1956), jazz musician
Andrew Jay Feustel (born 1965), astronaut
Jennifer Gareis (born 1970), actress
Rya Kihlstedt (born 1970),
actress
Carla Kihlstedt (born 1971), musician
Taylor Kinney (born
1981), actor
Beth Behrs (born 1985), actress
Jonathan Groff (born
1985), actor
Adam Cole (born 1989), professional wrestler
Derrick
Morgan (born 1989), American football player
Abigail Lynn Dahlkemper
(born 1993), soccer player
Russell Canouse (born 1995), soccer player
Tyler Zink (born 2001), tennis player