Laos is located in Southeast Asia. The official name of the
country is the Lao People's Democratic Republic (Lao PDR). This is a
presidential-parliamentary one-party authoritarian republic, where
the Marxist-Leninist and communist People's Revolutionary Party of
Laos (PRPL) is in power. One of the poorest countries in Southeast
Asia, but with a stable political situation and a mixed planned
market economy. Neighboring Vietnam and China (politically and
economically), as well as Thailand (socially and economically) have
a strong influence on the country.
Laos, along with Myanmar,
is the least visited country in Southeast Asia by tourists, losing
in the struggle for tourists to neighboring Thailand, Vietnam and
even Cambodia, although there are many interesting places of their
own. Laos is also the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia.
Laos consists of the following provinces:
Northern Laos
Hill
tribes, mountains and the former capital.
Bokeo · Luang Namtha ·
Luang Prabang · Oudomxay · Phongsali · Sainyabuli
Central Laos
Southeast Asia's sleepiest capital and the Plain of Jars.
Bolikhamsai
· Houaphan · Khammuan · Vientiane · Vientiane Province · Xieng Khouang
Southern Laos
The Mekong and the surrounding mountains, little
visited by tourists.
Attapeu · Champasak · Salavan · Savannakhet ·
Sekong
1 Vientiane (ວຽງຈັນ) – The capital, which is increasingly losing its
village character. Nevertheless, still an enchanting ambience.
2 Vang
Vieng (ວັງວຽງ) – The tourist magnet north of Vientiane, borders on the
highest mountain range in Southeast Asia.
3 Luang Prabang
(ເມືອງຫຼວງພະບາງ) - The old royal capital was declared a World Heritage
Site by UNESCO and offers countless temples. About 25km north of Luang
Prabang are the Tham Thing caves, which are home to many Buddha figures.
4 Muang This city should be visited about 1 week after the Festival of
Lights in Vientiane. A festival also takes place here at this time.
5
Pakse (ປາກເຊ) – starting point for trips south to the 4000 Islands, the
Mekong Waterfalls and the border crossing to Cambodia.
6 Phonsavan
(ໂພນສະຫວັນ) - Starting point to visit the Plains of Jars.
Wat Phou. The Khmer temple complex, located 8km southeast of
Champasak, is the most important Khmer sanctuary outside of Cambodia. In
2003 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Plain of Clay Jars
(ທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ) . Plains with large clay jars, the origin of which is still
unclear - one of the country's mysteries. It was named after 2,100
tubular megalithic stones that were used for burial purposes in the Iron
Age.
Plain of Clay Jars (ທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ) . Plains with large clay
jars, the origin of which is still unclear - one of the country's
mysteries. It was named after 2,100 tubular megalithic stones that were
used for burial purposes in the Iron Age
The first choice here is the plane. There are mainly flights from
Bangkok to Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse. Direct flights from
Europe are significantly more expensive than connections to Bangkok with
onward travel by train.
You can travel by train from Bangkok Hua
Lamphong Station and Nong Khai via the 1st Friendship Bridge to Laos.
Unfortunately, the journey currently ends in Tha Na Leng, just behind
the border. Further construction to the capital Vientiane is planned.
There are several ways to enter Laos from Thailand by car and bus.
Between Vientiane and Nong Khai (Thailand) is the “1. Friendship Bridge”
over the Mekong. Since 2007, a second bridge has connected Mukdahan in
Thailand with Savannakhet. Since 2011 there has been a third bridge
between Thakhek and Nakhon Phanom (Thailand). At the end of 2013, the
fourth bridge was opened in the far north near Chiang Khong / Ban
Houayxay.
Germans and citizens of other European countries require a visa to
enter the country. At the Embassy of Laos, Bismarckstr. 2a, in Berlin
you can apply for a tourist visa (type T-B3) for €40. It is valid for 15
day stays. Visitors wishing to stay 15-30 days will receive an entry
permit (NI-B3) for the same price, but must provide a travel
confirmation from Laos. In Berlin they are also responsible for citizens
of Poland, the Czech Republic, Lithuania and Latvia. Austrians can
obtain a visa at the embassy Sommerhaidenweg 43, 1180 Vienna +43 1 890
2319-13).
Applications, including by post, will be accepted at
the earliest 50 days before planned entry; the biometric passport must
be valid for at least 6 months. An “Immigration Card” must be filled out
upon entry. The visa is also available at the Lao Embassy in Bangkok and
the Consulate in Khon Kaen (Thailand). Extensions (only possible once
for tourists) may need to be applied for at the Foreigner Control
Department in Vientiane (versus Talat Sao, Morning Market). If you
exceed the permitted length of stay, a fee of US$ 10 will be charged
every calendar day.
Since September 1, 2009, citizens of
Switzerland and Luxembourg no longer need a visa if they will be in the
country for less than 15 days (information from the Honorary Consulate
of Laos in Switzerland, Bahnhofstrasse 52, CH-6430 Schwyz).
It is
also possible to apply for a “visa on arrival” upon entry. This is
possible at the international airports of Vientiane, Luang Prabang and
Pakse as well as at more important border posts (overview map) if you
are not entering by plane. The tourist visa costs depending on
nationality (US$30 or US$35), but can also be paid for with Thai Baht,
although a somewhat unfavorable exchange rate will then be applied. A
passport photo is required, but for a $1 surcharge, the officer will
make a photocopy of the passport. Especially at smaller border
crossings, “overtime surcharges” or similar amounting to US$ 1-2 are due
in cash, for which the border guards sometimes do not issue a receipt!
(The temperature is sometimes measured at the Vietnam - Laos border -
costs 1 US$)
Please ensure that an entry stamp is affixed upon
entry. A lack of an entry stamp can lead to considerable difficulties
(i.e. demands for bribes) during police checks or when leaving the
country.
The usual international allowances of 1 liter of schnapps or 2 liters of wine and 200 cigarettes apply. Please note the strict export ban on Buddha figures and antiques.
International connections:
Vientiane: is served by Lao Airlines
(home airport), Thai Airways, Vietnam Airlines, China Eastern Airlines,
China Southern Airlines (from November 6, 2007) and Air Asia (from Kuala
Lumpur). Vientiane Airport
Luang Prabang: Lao Airlines flies the
route Vientiane - Luang Prabang - Chiang Mai (Thailand), and Bangkok
Airways flies Bangkok - Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang Airport
Pakse:
Lao Airlines flies the route Vientiane - Pakse - Siem Reap (Cambodia).
The 6km long railway line Nong Khai (Thailand) - Thanalaeng in Laos has been in operation since March 2009 (extension of the Bangkok - Nong Khai line; 621km, 3 night trains daily). Departure from Nong Khai daily at 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.; Arrived in Thanalaeng about 15 minutes later. Tickets start from 20 baht, depending on class. The visa on arrival is available in Thanalaeng. From Thanalaeng train station to Vientiane by tuk-tuk (300 Baht per person), taxi or minibus. A connection from Vientiane is planned for later. There is no railway in Laos (yet) - apart from the no longer functional 5km railway line with which the French had overcome the Mekong Falls in the south and thus enabled goods to be transported on the Mekong.
From/to Thailand
There are four scheduled bus routes between
Thailand and Laos:
Nong Khai - Vientiane
Udon Thani - Vientiane
Mukdahan - Savannakhet
Ubon Ratchathani - Pakse
Another connection
Chiang Mai - Nan - Luang Prabang is reportedly being planned.
For
details on timetables and prices, please contact the bus station at the
departure point.
From/to Vietnam
Direct buses from Hanoi (Giap
Bat Busstation, 6 Giai Phong) depart as night buses in the early
evening. Prices may vary depending on the company and bus quality. To
Vientiane in 2015 you pay 550,000 dong (approx. 20 hours), to Luang
Prabang 1.15 million (approx. 24 hours).
The more important
border crossings served by buses are:
Tây Trang, (no “visa on
arrival” here in 2016), accessible via Laot. Highway № 279 to Điện Biên
Phủ.
Cầu Treo, Highway № 8 to Vinh, Prov. Nghệ An. From Phonsavan
(Plain of Clay Jars) a Vietnamese sleeper bus leaves at 6:30 in the
morning directly to Vinh in 10 hours.
Lao Bảo, Highway № 9A to Đồng
Hà, Prov. Quảng Trị.
The Dakta Ok (LAO) / Nam Giang (Quảng Nam,
VI) border crossing on national road 14D has also been allowed to be
used by third-country nationals since May 2023. Open from 8 a.m. to 5
p.m.
From/to Cambodia
A bus leaves Phnom Penh every morning
via Stung Treng “directly” to Pakse. The vehicle must be changed at the
Dom Kralor crossing (aka Dong Kalaw), which is always reached after the
official closing time, so that an “overtime surcharge” is due. (The
Cambodian side also likes to hold out their hand!)
Car/motorcycle/bicycle
In principle, entry by vehicle or bicycle
should be possible at all border crossing points already mentioned under
“bus”. You will need an international driving license and a Carnet de
Passage for your own vehicle to enter the country.
Entry is
possible, for example, via the Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai to Laos
(official name: First Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge - the second friendship
bridge has connected Mukdahan in Thailand with Savannakhet in Laos since
the beginning of 2007). The road condition is improving every year.
Route 13, which crosses the country from north to south, is now
accessible all year round. Other roads (mostly not national highways)
are sometimes impassable during the rainy season.
Vietnam
It
should be noted that a special permit is required to enter Vietnam by
motorcycle.
Myanmar
Although there is a land border crossing
at Xieng Kok (Laotian Highway № 178), due to the restrictive residence
regulations in Myanmar, western foreigners may only be able to pass this
with a special permit.
China
From Kunming (Laotian Consulate
there: 6800North Cai Yun Rd., Guan Du District) or Jinghong (景洪市), on
the Chinese National Road No. 213 direction, by night bus from Kunming
via Jinghong to the northern bus station of Mengla (勐腊镇) , from the
southern bus station there by shared taxi to the Laotian post Boten on
Highway № 13.
Mekong: If the water level is high enough, you can travel almost
every section of the route by boat. However, only the two-day trip from
Chiang Khong (Thailand) / Ban Houayxay (Laos) to Luang Prabang, with a
stopover and overnight stay in Pakbeng, is likely to be of interest when
entering Laos from Thailand. However, a lot of patience is required
here. There isn't a seat for everyone and you can't reserve one (even if
the seller says otherwise).
You no longer need to bring your own
pillows. Depending on the equipment, there are either enough cushions on
the boats from previous passengers, or the seating consists of
comfortable padded coach seats. It makes much more sense to bring your
own drinks, as they are more expensive on board (but they are chilled).
There are no life jackets.
There is no rail transport in Laos, apart from the border crossings with Thailand.
Laos has a very good and relatively punctual bus system, which mainly
works along the main road № 13.
From a European perspective, the
buses in Laos, mostly second-hand from China, are old and “finished”,
but accidents and breakdowns occur very rarely. The price-performance
ratio is unbeatable.
The bus stations are mostly outside the
cities/towns; Even small towns can have several bus stations (e.g. Muang
Xay). You can change between the bus stations with a tuk-tuk or
songthaew - the prices for the tuk-tuk or songthaew transport can
(unless you negotiate) reach the price level of a bus journey lasting
several hours. The price often drops when you start to leave the bus
station area.
There are also minivans for all tourist routes. The
prices are about the same as on the bus, the 9 or 12 seaters are
air-conditioned and stop at bus stops in smaller villages about every
three hours, where you can quickly have a hot noodle soup and do other
important things (toilet fee 2000 -4000 kip). Because of the bad roads
and the route over the mountains, the minivans only reach an average
speed of around 30km/h, i.e. H. Each onward journey always takes almost
a day. However, the trip is very interesting because you not only see
the fascinating mountain world, but also many small villages of the
Hmong and other mountain tribes, some of whom still live and work in a
very original way.
It is better to travel longer distances (e.g.
from Luang Prabang to Hanoi or Pakse) by plane. For example, the 12-hour
bus trip in the sleeper bus from Phonsavan to Vinh in Vietnam is really
only for the very die-hard (smoking allowed on the bus, constant sound
with Vietnamese comedy series and hits, rare stops, no toilet).
Anyone who is used to western, regulated traffic will describe the
Laotian driving style as chaotic. Traffic signs and road markings are
ignored and many Laotians drive as they please. Anyone who is involved
in a traffic accident as a foreigner will usually be responsible for any
costs, even if they are innocent, or even have to cover them entirely.
Many foreigners living in Laos refuse to drive, preferring to employ a
Laotian as a driver.
However, there are very few vehicles on the
road outside the cities. If you adapt to the leisurely (and therefore
cautious) Laotian driving style, you shouldn't have any problems. When
approaching blind curves or overtaking slower buses and trucks in the
mountains, you simply honk. The same applies on the street as everywhere
in Laos: Lao PDR (= please don't rush...).
In urban areas there
is a maximum speed of 40 km/h, 20-30 km/h near schools and hospitals. On
country roads you can go 90km/h.
Since there is little traffic in Laos, cycling on lonely roads is an
experience. In the cities, however, the streets are no longer as
“lonely” as they were 5 or 10 years ago. There are 250cc motorcycles for
rent in Vientiane and Pakse. Wearing a helmet is mandatory. Warning:
Laotians on the road (see above under "Car").
Road No. 13 is
easily passable from the Cambodian border to China. There is a nice tour
(800km) from Vientiane - Paksan - Phonsavan - Kasi - Vang Vieng and back
to Vientiane. However, longer distances on a 250 cc moped are torture.
The entire route is now asphalted. There are plenty of guesthouses in
every town. The route is interesting because there are still huge
forests and numerous spectacular bomb craters, at least between Paksan
and Phonsavan.
There is a nice - albeit very adventurous - route
from Champasak to Attapeu in the very south of the country. Road No. 18
has some river crossings, but they are not very difficult to navigate in
the dry season. However, it is advisable to walk through the river first
to avoid deep places (the engine should not suck in water). On the route
there is a small village every few kilometers where you can get
something to eat in an emergency.
On the Mekong, which partly forms the border with Thailand, you can get along very well in two boat variants. Once in slower, comfortable boats (20-50 people) or in narrow, loud speedboats. The first option is recommended for traveling downstream, the very mountainous landscape is beautiful. Steep rocky slopes with paintings and villages embedded in the slopes stretch along the river. The speedboats are extremely loud, narrow and dangerous because of driftwood and shoals or rocks.
In Laos people speak Lao, which is related to Thai (especially Isaan
Thai). In the hotels, the staff can usually speak some English. Some
older locals still speak French from the times of the former occupying
power, France. German is also understood and spoken by some people who
were sent to the former GDR for training.
The transcription of
words written in Lao (for travelers, place and street names as well as
names of temples, etc. are particularly important) into Latin spelling
is not standardized. Depending on whether the language is English or
French, names are spelled differently. In this article and in the other
articles on Laotian topics, the English variant is used throughout (not
always consistently). Here you can find, for example: For example, the
spelling is “Samsenthai”, but street signs in Vientiane, which are
bilingual in Lao and French, say “Samsènethai”. The city of Pakse is
also sometimes spelled Pakxe, Sainyabuli sometimes Sayaboury, etc.
Especially for those who speak English, please note: “Th” (as in
Thanon, street) is pronounced as a breathy T, like in German “Tee” - not
like in English “the” or “think “. “Ph” is a breathy P as in “Pater,”
and never F. The “X” (as in Lane Xang) is pronounced as an S.
ATMs: There are now ATMs everywhere throughout the country that also
work with a European ATM card. According to BCEL, the maximum amount per
transaction is 2,000,000 Kip and you can withdraw this amount up to 10
times a day using a credit card (Visa, Master Card, Diners Club, JCB)
(but a visitor hardly ever needs that much). BCEL charges 20,000 kip for
each transaction. This is in addition to the card issuer's fees.
Other currencies: In addition to the Kip, US dollars and Thai baht are
often easily accepted in shops and restaurants, although the exchange
rates used are hardly less favorable than those used by the banks. Some
restaurants in Vientiane also accept Euros!
Exchange rate
In
2022 inflation was over 40%. Current exchange rates (as of Dec 2022)):
1€ = approx. 17900 kip
1$ = approx. 17300 kip
100 Thai Baht =
approx. 490 kip
The current rates for the most important
currencies can be found on the BCEL (Foreign Trade Bank) website.
Banknotes: They are available in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000,
5000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000 and 100,000 kip.
Anyone expecting a special kind of nightlife will be very disappointed, especially if you look for “bars with ladies” like those common in Thailand and Cambodia. Some casinos have been licensed in the area near the border with China.
Simple guesthouses all over the country from 40,000 kip, clean double rooms with private bathrooms, air conditioning and TV around 100,000 kip.
In 2016, the German Foreign Office warned in particular: 1, in the
eastern parts of the country, away from the main roads, of explosive
residues from the times of the American bombings (see below); 2,
Increasing petty crime, especially in tourist centers with the use of
violence, especially by drug addicts; 3, Car and bus travel in the dark
between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng due to increasing armed attacks on
travelers. In parts of Saysomboun (= Xaysomboun) province, night-time
curfews have been in place since November 2015.[5]
Another
security problem in Laos are unexploded bombs that date back to the
Vietnam War. They make Laos the country with the largest amounts of
unexploded war material in the ground. There are still many accidents
every year. The cities and tourist attractions are safe, but outside of
them you should exercise caution and, for example, never leave the paths
and paths in remote areas. This applies in particular to the Plain of
Jars in Xieng Khuang.
The medical infrastructure in Laos is very poor. Therefore, you
should visit the country with a well-equipped first aid kit. The most
common illnesses are colds and diarrhea. Furthermore, dehydration can
occur in the summer. For complicated cases, you should consider visiting
a hospital in Thailand.
Vaccinations - Hepatitis vaccination is
necessary. Vaccination against typhus is also recommended. In some
forums you can also find recommendations to get vaccinated against
rabies and Japanese encephalitis.
Malaria - Large areas of Laos are
already resistant to the common prophylaxis with mefloquine. Therefore,
prophylaxis is generally not recommended. The usual preventative
measures against mosquito bites (long, light-colored clothing; mosquito
spray, mosquito net) are important. Every tourist should have emergency
medication prescribed by a doctor with them. Malaria is a risk in much
of Laos, but not in the city of Vientiane. But what occurs here is:
Dengue fever is quite common, especially in the rainy season, and can be
fatal if left untreated. No vaccination possible. Dengue, unlike
malaria, also exists in Vientiane. Preventive measures as described
under Malaria!
Rabies: caution is advised due to the large number of
stray dogs, some of which can often be quite aggressive. If you are
bitten by a dog, be sure to see a doctor, even if you had a rabies
vaccination before the trip. In this case, only a booster vaccination is
necessary.
Drinking water can only be bought in bottles, the water
from the tap is not drinking water (the locals don't drink it either).
Stomach/intestinal problems can always occur, but can largely be avoided
if you exercise the necessary caution, i.e. pay attention to hygienic
conditions, especially at cheaper eating places; Peel fruits or at least
wash them with drinking water from the bottle; Do not eat raw or
undercooked meat or fish.
Eating and drinking customs. If you are
invited to a Laotian house, you will often be offered a drink from a
“community glass”, which is handed to everyone in the group one after
the other. Probably not entirely harmless, but difficult to refuse.
Spooning, with your own spoon, from a shared bowl also belongs in this
chapter.
In any case, you should consult a doctor before departure to
discuss the necessary precautions (vaccinations, malaria prophylaxis).
The country is somewhat conservative and the government resists
overly modern developments. The first-time visitor will be surprised to
occasionally see the old Soviet or party flag. However, Thai television
is almost universally available and popular, at least in the west of the
country, and Laotians understand and speak Thai fairly well. People are
open to new and foreign things, as tolerance is one of their most
outstanding character traits. Great importance is generally placed on
appropriate clothing: women should always have their shoulders and knees
covered, and their clothing should be clean.
Please note the
following travel warning: “Extramarital sexual contacts are
traditionally not permitted in Laos. This is particularly true for
intimate relationships between foreigners and Laotians. In the past,
suspected violations have been punished in individual cases with more
than symbolic fines (the official penalty is US$ 500 to US$ 5,000) or
imprisonment. Cases of extortion and night raids on hotels and private
accommodation are not uncommon.”
The post from Laos abroad works surprisingly well; However, to Laos there are sometimes delays or the mail is put in the wrong PO box (there is no home delivery unless you pay an annual flat fee for it, or the addressee does not have a PO box and the accuracy of the address allows home delivery - with a corresponding delay). A card or letter weighing up to 20 g to Europe costs around 13,000 kip (March 2016); If the nice lady at the counter asks for more, you ask with a friendly smile to see the tariff list.
Landline: Tariffs for international connections have been massively
reduced in recent years. For example, did you have to For example, in
2000 you would pay almost $4 per minute for a call via Lao Telecom to
Western Europe, but now it is only $0.20.
Mobile communications:
Mobile phone providers offer a special area code for international
calls.
Lao Telecom. Best network coverage and availability. Price:
Domestic: 800 kip/minute; Abroad: 2000 kip/minute.infoedit
ETL.
Network coverage slightly less good than Lao Telecom; GPRS is available.
Price: Domestic: 800 kip/minute; Abroad: 2000 kip/minute.
Tigo.
Roughly the same prices and network coverage as ETL.infoedit
Roaming
(as of December 2007). Tigo has the most agreements with foreign network
operators: over 100 - see their website (including with Orange in
Switzerland; none yet with German or Austrian operators. Laotel has
agreements with around 30 operators (none yet in Germany, Austria and
the Switzerland) - see their website.
Free WiFi is offered in
practically all restaurants and guesthouses.
Archaeological finds in the provinces of Houaphan and Luang Prabang
provide evidence of human activity in what is now Laos around 40,000
years ago. Settlements of sedentary, agricultural residents existed
around 4000 BC. BC, while finds in burial sites from around 1500 BC. BC
indicate a complex, developed society. From around 700 BC In the 4th
century BC, iron tools were used in what is now Laos, indicating close
contacts with neighboring Indian and Chinese civilizations. The
monumental stone jugs in the level of the stone jugs can also be
assigned to the Iron Age (around the turn of the Christian era).
The oldest ethnic groups in today's Laos are the Lua and Khmu (often
combined to Lao Theung - "Highland Laotians"), which belong to the
Austroasiatic language family. They were referred to as kha by the
Tai/Lao who immigrated later, but this is seen as derogatory as it can
also mean “servant” or “slave”. Their presence has been documented since
around 500 AD. At that time, the south of what is now Laos belonged to
the state-like structure Funan. The city of Shrestapura was probably
located in the southern Laotian province of Champasak, one of the
capitals of the Chenla state association that existed from the 6th to
8th centuries, a successor to Funan and forerunner of the later Khmer
Empire (Kambuja). At the beginning of the 8th century, according to
Chinese chronicles, Chenla split into a “land Chenla” and a “sea
Chenla”. Southern Laos was part of the core area of “Land-Chenla”.
Tai peoples, to which the Lao belong, probably migrated from China
to the northern parts of Southeast Asia, including northern Laos, during
the first millennium. The Tai tribes that settled in the middle Mekong
Valley are called Lao; Another Tai people, the Phuan, settled in the
“Plain of the Stone Jars”. Until the turn of the 19th and 20th
centuries, 'Lao' and 'T(h)ai' could still be used synonymously, only
then did separate national identities emerge. Since the Tai/Lao settled
in the river valleys and cultivated wet rice fields, while the "kha"
lived on the mountain slopes, where they lived from slash-and-burn
agriculture, the two ethnic groups coexisted largely without competition
- a differentiation that still exists to some extent to the present day.
The Lao - like other Tai peoples of Southeast Asia - formed tribal
principalities called Müang, each consisting of several villages and
ruled by a chief (chao). One of the oldest Müang was Müang Sua, today's
Luang Prabang, which was probably founded in the 11th century. The Lao
adopted Buddhism, but also continued to maintain animistic traditions of
the Tai peoples, such as the worship of ancestors and local spirits
(phi). In the 12th and 13th centuries, large parts of what is now Laos
belonged to the Khmer Empire of Angkor.
The starting point of the
actual history of Laos is usually assumed to be the year 1353, when the
ruler of Müang Sua, Fa Ngum (who had previously served as a commander in
the army of Angkor), founded the kingdom of Lan Xang Hom Khao, the
"Empire of a Million Elephants." a white umbrella”. Lan The emergence of
Lan Xang was favored by the decline of Angkor. At the time of his
greatest strength, Lan Lan Trade and education reached a high level
during this time.
After Sulinyavongsa's death, Lan The smaller
Phuan principality in Xiang Khouang was also virtually independent for a
time. However, they all faced repeated invasions from more powerful
neighbors from Burma, Siam (Thailand) and Vietnam, who claimed
supremacy. Since Vietnam viewed the Mekong as its western border and
Siam viewed the Annamite Cordillera as the eastern border of its zone of
influence, Laos belonged to both overlapping spheres of power and formed
a buffer between them. The various Lao rulers balanced the two powerful
neighbors, sometimes leaning towards one and sometimes the other, and at
times paying tribute to both sides at the same time. In internal
affairs, however, they maintained extensive autonomy, although the Lao
Müang in what is now northeast Thailand (Isan) increasingly came under
the direct control of Siam and Xiang Khouang came under that of Vietnam.
In 1827, King Anuvong of Vientiane rebelled against Siamese
supremacy. However, his troops were repelled after initial successes.
Anuvong was put on public display and executed in Bangkok. Today he is
revered as a Laotian national hero, even though a nation of Laos was not
yet conceivable at the time. The Kingdom of Vientiane lost its autonomy
and the capital was razed. A large part of the population of what is now
central Laos was transported to the western side of the Mekong (today's
Thailand).
From the middle of the 19th century, France gained
increasing influence as a colonial power in continental Southeast Asia.
In 1893 the French conquered the left bank of the Mekong and forced Siam
to recognize the Mekong as its border. The areas populated by Laotians
west of the Mekong, however, remained with Siam. They still form the
Thai Isan today. The Mekong became the border river from the central
artery of the Laotian settlement area. Today's Laos was incorporated
into the French colony of French Indochina as the Laos Protectorate.
However, all plans for the country's economic development remained
unrealized. In the early 20th century, resistance movements against
colonial rule formed in French Indochina; the idea of a Lao nation
emerged. Among other things, Ho Chi Minh founded the Communist Party of
Indochina in 1930, whose goal was to drive out the colonial rulers.
During World War II, Laos was occupied by the Japanese army. After
Japan surrendered unconditionally and had to withdraw from the country,
Laos declared its independence on October 12, 1945. However, it again
came under French rule. On July 19, 1949, the Franco-Lao Treaty was
signed, which was intended to make Laos an independent member within the
Union Française. The Lao Issara (“Free/Independent Lao” – independence
movement) then split because only some of the Lao independence fighters
were satisfied with this treaty. In the years that followed, France's
influence declined, elections were held, and the United States gained
influence. France was ultimately defeated in Vietnam, and on July 21,
1954, during the Indochina Conference (Geneva Conference), France
officially gave up all claims in Indochina and agreed to withdraw its
troops and recognize Laos' independence, with which Laos finally gained
complete sovereignty. In 1958, active and passive universal women's
suffrage was introduced.
The Laotian Civil War was linked to the
Vietnam War. The North Vietnamese supported the Pathet Lao guerrillas
against the Laotian government, which was supported by the United
States. Laos was officially neutral in the Vietnam War. In 1959, North
Vietnam invaded Laos to control and expand the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The
CIA organized a guerrilla counter-army composed of members of the Hmong
people of Long Tieng to fight the Pathet Lao in the 1960s. This conflict
was largely unknown to the international public. The initially
successful operation ended in disaster and resulted in the death and
flight of many Hmong. The Ho Chi Minh Trail, which runs largely through
Laos, was only a partial aspect of the fight against communism; an
estimated 2.5 tons of explosives per inhabitant were dropped on Laos
during American area bombings. This is why Laos is one of the most
heavily bombed countries in the world, with a high proportion of
unexploded bombs and landmines to this day.
After the end of the
Vietnam War, the communist-influenced forces of Pathet Lao took power in
1975 through a bloodless revolution - compared to what happened in
neighboring Cambodia - and proclaimed the Lao People's Democratic
Republic on December 2, 1975. The Lao People's Revolutionary Party was
chosen as the country's ruling party, and the first prime minister,
Kaysone Phomvihane, remained in office until 1992. Political and
economic repression continued to leave the country unsafe and unstable,
and around 10% of the population left Laos, primarily for Thailand,
France, the USA and Australia.
Due to serious economic problems,
Laos initiated an opening and reform policy from 1986 under the name New
Economic Mechanism with the aim of realizing the gradual transition from
a planned to a market economy. As part of these reforms, economic
liberalization was carried out and economic relations with foreign
countries were strengthened.
Political reforms are also gradually
being undertaken. On August 14, 1991, the People's Assembly adopted the
first constitution since the communists came to power, and Laos has been
a member of ASEAN since 1997.
There is still an unresolved
conflict in the Saysomboun special zone northeast of Vientiane, where
fighting between the communist government and armed resistance groups
continues to this day. The members of these resistance groups are mainly
recruited from members of the Hmong minority and have retreated to the
mountainous regions where they live in great poverty. There have been
repeated attacks and attacks in and around Vientiane and on important
transport routes, of which foreign tourists have fallen victim. On the
other hand, there are also reports of serious human rights violations by
the military in the fight against the insurgents.
The narrow southern part of Laos lies on the Indochinese Peninsula between Vietnam in the east, Cambodia in the south and Thailand in the west. The northern part of the country lies on the actual Southeast Asian mainland, where Laos also shares borders with Myanmar and the southern Chinese province of Yunnan.
Laos has a tropical climate with high temperatures, although the large differences in altitude can lead to strong regional temperature fluctuations. The climate is heavily influenced by the monsoons. The summer or southwest monsoon prevails from May to October, which is associated with heavy rainfall and high humidity. During this time, an average of 1,778 millimeters of precipitation falls, while from November to February the northeast monsoon provides a drier and cooler climate. The months of March and April are humid and hot.
Laos can be topographically divided into two areas:
An area
characterized by the Truong Son Mountains stretches almost across the
entire country in a north-south direction and reaches heights of over
2000 meters. Its highest mountain is Phu Bia at 2819 m. This mountainous
region covers around nine tenths of the country.
The remaining
region, which also includes the capital Vientiane, is a small lowland on
the southern and southwestern border with Thailand.
The most
important river is the Mekong, which rises in Tibet and branches out
into a river delta extending over 39,000 km² near Ho Chi Minh City
(Vietnam). The Mekong Delta drains into the South China Sea. The Mekong
forms the border with Thailand and Myanmar over a length of around 1000
kilometers; In total it touches 1,898 kilometers of Laotian territory.
Most of the country thus drains into the South China Sea. Only 12% of
the territory, in the very northeast, drains into the Gulf of Tonkin.
The capital Vientiane and the city of Luang Prabang lie on the Mekong.
Tributaries of the Mekong are the Nam Ou, Nam Ngum (with the Nam Ngum
Dam) and the Nam Xebanghieng.
Large-scale deforestation in recent decades has caused groundwater
levels to drop in some areas, leading to a precarious drinking water
situation in Laos. In addition, due to the destruction of the habitat of
flora and fauna, a large number of animal and plant species are
threatened with extinction. In 1996, 68 species of mammals, birds,
reptiles and fish were considered endangered. However, 35 protected
areas, which cover almost 19 percent of the country, have now been
designated. The forest is particularly at risk from timber extraction,
clearing for arable land and fuel production, with around 8 percent of
the country's energy needs being met by wood. Annual forest loss is
estimated at around 3,000 square kilometers.
A major
environmental problem in Laos is unexploded bombs from the Vietnam War.
They make the country one of the states with the largest amounts of
unexploded war material in the ground. Of the more than 2 million tons
of bombs dropped by American air forces over Laos between 1964 and 1973
in more than 530,000 air raids, around 50 percent of the territory is
still affected today. This is a major problem for an agricultural
country like Laos, as people are regularly injured or killed by
unexploded bombs. The UXO-LAO project, which is concerned with educating
the population and eliminating unexploded bombs, is one of the country's
largest employers and is financed by the UNDP as well as some
industrialized countries and aid organizations, but not by the polluter,
the USA.
The country is about 50 percent forested. There are both tropical
rainforests and monsoon forests. Around 8 percent of the forests are
classified as virgin forest.
Laos is home to predator species
such as leopards and tigers. Since 2013, it has been assumed that after
the Indochinese leopard, the Indochinese tiger has also been extinct in
the Nam Et - Phou Louey National Park and tigers are no longer found in
Laos.
As in other countries in Southeast Asia, working elephants
are used as pack animals.
Laos had a population of 7.3 million in 2020. Annual population growth was +1.5%. A surplus of births (birth rate: 22.4 per 1000 inhabitants vs. death rate: 6.4 per 1000 inhabitants) contributed to population growth. The number of births per woman was statistically 2.5 in 2020, and that of the East Asia and Oceania region was 1.6. The median age of the population was 23.5 years in 2020. In 2020, 31.4 percent of the population was under 15 years old, while the proportion of those over 64 years old was 4.3 percent of the population.
The population is distributed very unevenly across the territory. The
plains on the Mekong have the highest population density, especially the
region around the capital. The mountainous areas in the east and north
are very sparsely populated.
The ethnic population composition of
Laos is controversial. At the beginning of the 20th century, the French
colonial power initially divided the population based on phenotypic
characteristics, with the “Lao”, “Kha” and “Tai” being the largest
groups. The Laotian kingdom initially adopted this classification, but
combined "Tai" and "Lao" into one group, which led to the
underestimation of the "Kha", which was probably not politically
intended, also because they populated less accessible areas. In the late
1950s, the classification scheme that is still used today by the
government and even occasionally by scientists was developed. Three main
groups are distinguished: the Lao Loum ("lowland Laotians"), the Lao
Theung ("mountain slope Laotians") and the Lao Soung (“Highland
Laotians”) are defined pro forma ethnically and culturally, but
correspond exactly to the old racialized categories of the former
colonial power France. This classification was again modified by the
state when the communists came to power in 1975.
Building on a
Leninist image of the nation and against the background of Vietnamese
nationality policy, more importance was given to the various ethnic
groups, particularly those living in the mountainous regions of Laos. As
a result, the Leninist regime used pseudo-scientific studies to pursue a
policy that produced rigid ethnic identities, which was intended to
bring about both the “civilization of backward groups” and the
integration of members of ethnic minorities into the government
apparatus. The 1985 census distinguished 68 ethnic groups with 820
ethnic subgroups. In 1995, after long discussions, the census
distinguished 47 ethnic groups; in the 2000 census there were 49 ethnic
groups.
In 2017, 0.7 percent of the population was born abroad.
From a linguistic perspective, there are four major language families
in Laos, namely the Tai-Kadai, Mon-Khmer, Tibeto-Burmese and the
Hmong-Yao families. This division is the subject of discussion and
changes - in the 1985 census, six language families were distinguished.
Laos is, especially given its low population, a country with
extraordinary linguistic diversity, but due to its remoteness it is
still very little researched. The exact number of distinguishable
languages is unknown and is given as 70 to 120.
The languages
belong to four different language groups:
Tai languages, whose
southwestern and northern branches have been spoken in what is now Laos
for around 2000 years. The presence of these languages is the result of
the southwest migration of Tai peoples from southwest China about 2000
years ago. The Tai languages also include the country's official
language, the Lao language.
Lolo-Burman languages (branch of
Tibeto-Burman languages)
Miao-Yao languages have only been spoken in
Laos for around 200 years; they came to the country with migrants from
southwest China.
Mon-Khmer languages that predominated before the
arrival of all other languages. They are geographically the most
widespread and have the highest internal diversity. However, many of
these languages are on the verge of extinction. Other languages that are
particularly widespread in the north are an integral part of the
cultural life of the local population, such as Khmu.
The official
language in Laos is Lao, which is a tonal language and is very similar
to Thai. It is spoken as a native language by around two million people
in Laos, plus around 20 million people in northern Thailand who speak a
Thai dialect that is very similar to Lao. Lao has become the language of
communication between the country's Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups. There
is a distinct Lao script, the development of which can be traced to an
origin in the Indian Brahmi script, as is the case with most
non-Romanized scripts of Southeast Asia. The Lao script also shows great
similarities to the Thai.
Although Lao is the official language
and the government is trying to enforce the use of this language
throughout the country, not every resident of the country speaks it.
This is mainly due to the weak infrastructure, but also to the degree of
distribution of other languages, especially the Hmong languages.
However, the advance of Lao is progressing quickly, especially through
the media and through internal migration from the mountains to the
plains.
The two most important foreign languages in Laos are Thai
and Vietnamese. Thai is very easy to learn for Laotians and is present
in the country primarily through the Thai media, but also through
Laotian guest workers who work temporarily in Thailand. Vietnamese is
spoken along the border with Vietnam to facilitate border traffic, and
there are also significant groups of Vietnamese in the cities. The
French language is important due to its colonial past and is still
learned by the majority of the Laotian elite. Laos is a full member of
the Francophonie, the community of French-speaking countries. It is
traditional for the Laotian president and foreign minister to speak
French. However, it is now increasingly being replaced by English, the
only official ASEAN language.
Laotian cultural practices are often religiously influenced. In
earlier times, Buddhist temples formed the spiritual center of every
village. The life of the Laotian population was determined by religion,
and most everyday activities followed the Buddhist calendar. Vientiane
and Luang Prabang are known as the cities of a thousand temples and
feature many examples of traditional art and architecture. The Royal
Palace in Luang Prabang and the That Luang Stupa in Vientiane are the
most famous national shrines.
The largest religion in Laos is
Theravada Buddhism, which came to this area around 800. It is a common
custom for boys or young men to spend a few days to weeks in a temple as
a monk. Likewise, many families have a small altar in their home.
Ethnic religions with ancestor worship and animism are particularly
widespread in mountain regions, with some members of the mountain tribes
converting to Buddhism without completely giving up their traditional
faith.
Small groups of Muslims, Christians (Catholic Church of
Laos and Protestants in Laos) and followers of Vietnamese and Chinese
religious communities can be found in the cities.
According to
human rights organizations, Christianity in particular is seen as a
foreign influence, and the religious practice of Christians is subject
to massive restrictions, while that of Buddhists is largely guaranteed
by the government.
According to a 2010 study, 66.3% of the
population were Buddhists, 30.7% were followers of ethnic religions,
1.5% were Christians and 0.01% were Muslims; 0.9% did not belong to any
religion.
The residents of what is now Laos have been familiar with opium since
the 18th century, when the opium trade with China began and, as a
result, drug addiction spread in the country. Knowledge of opium
production came to Laos in the early 19th century with the Hmong
immigrants.
Since 1899, the French colonial administration had
controlled opium production and placed production under a state
monopoly, under which 75 tons of opium were sold through licensed
dealers in 1928, as well as contraband from the nearby Chinese province
of Yunnan. The immigrant Hmong produced 3.5 t in 1909, but after the
uprisings of 1919–1922 and 1923 they already produced 23 t. From 1930
onwards, increased control almost completely suppressed cultivation. The
Vichy administration, which continued to exist under Japanese
occupation, was forced for fiscal reasons to expand cultivation
throughout Indochina, where up to 100,000 drug addicts lived at the
time. The quantity delivered to the monopoly by intermediaries such as
Touby Lyfoung rose from 7.5 tons in 1940 to 60 tons four years later.
In the First Indochina War, the GCMA unit set up by the French
secret service SDECE under the command of the infamous Roger Trinquier
used opium grown in Laos to finance its war against the Pathet Lao
fighters until 1954.
Officially, Laos abolished the French-era
opium monopoly (Opium Régie du Laos) in 1961 and criminalized the opium
trade. However, cultivation and export, which had originally been
massively expanded to finance the GCMA until 1954, continued. Under
General Phoumi Nosavan, Air Force General Ouane Rattikone was tasked
with running the government's opium business from 1962 onwards. At that
time, around 1 t of opium per month was delivered to Nguyen Kao Ky's
cronies in South Vietnam, who specifically sold it to US soldiers.
Exports tripled by 1964. After Ouane drove out Deputy Prime Minister
Phoumi in 1965, he took over the opium trade himself, especially in the
northwest. First, he eliminated the Air Laos Commerciale as
transporters, but this resulted in logistical problems. In order to
avoid weakening the air force, the American development aid organization
USAID bought two Douglas DC-3 transport aircraft for him and Vang Pao,
who was operating in the northeast. A factory was operated that produced
Double-U-O Globe brand heroin starting in 1965.
In the early
1970s, the number of opium-dependent residents was estimated at 50,000.
In 1992 it was estimated that around two percent of the population was
addicted to opium. The cultivated area was 15,000-20,000 ha, with a
production of 60-140 t. 60 percent of the addicts were residents of the
mountainous regions in the north of the country. In 1995, it was
estimated that Laos produced 80 tons of opium for domestic consumption
and continued to export 40 to 60 tons. This made Laos the third most
important opium-producing nation after Afghanistan and Myanmar.
Only since 1996 has the production, distribution and consumption of
opium actually been punished. Nevertheless, a number of 58,000 drug
addicts was estimated in 2001. In addition to opium, heroin,
amphetamines and adhesives are increasingly being consumed as
intoxicants.
The government of Laos, in collaboration with the
UNDP and non-governmental organizations, is trying to combat the problem
of drug abuse. The focus is to offer opium producers an alternative
source of income. At the same time, educational programs are being
carried out in the affected regions. Substance abuse prevention and
treatment projects that are consistent with local culture will be
launched. There are also measures to enforce the opium trade law.
Article 135 of the Criminal Code provides for the death penalty for drug
traffickers, but this has not yet been applied. The lack of their only
“cash crop” leads to impoverishment. The government's goal was to be
drug-free by 2015.
In 2015, Laos recorded a literacy rate of around 85% (90% for men,
almost 80% for women). At the beginning of the 2000s, only two thirds of
men and one third of women over the age of 15 could read and write. Many
Laotian children drop out of primary school early in order to be able to
contribute to the family's livelihood, especially in field work.
In larger towns there are primary schools that are primarily sponsored
by private and international organizations such as UNICEF. In the very
rural areas, especially in the mountainous regions, there are central
primary schools that ensure the school education of the residents of
many towns. As a result, very long distances (20 km or more, mostly on
foot) often have to be covered, there is no school bus facility in rural
areas, and in most regions mopeds and even bicycles are considered
luxury goods. Secondary schools are subject to fees, which contributes
to the fact that only a few people can attend such a school. The
official duration of compulsory schooling in Laos is 8 years; according
to UNESCO, the school enrollment rate (as of 2008) is 83%. School
uniforms are compulsory in Laos. In larger cities – e.g. B. in Phonsavan
and in Thakhek - there are kindergartens based on the GDR model, which
are also called “kindergarten” in Lao.
The Laos school system was
rebuilt by the government in 1975. It normally consists of eleven school
years and is divided as follows: primary school (from the age of six)
five years, lower secondary school three years, upper secondary school
three years. Classes are taught in the national language, Lao. Some
schools also teach the foreign languages French and English.
In
1996, the country's eleven universities were combined to form the
National University of Laos (NUOL). Most of the facilities are located
in the capital Vientiane, some are also in Luang Prabang or other larger
cities. The university includes the following faculties: natural
sciences, engineering, architecture, social sciences, agriculture,
forestry, pedagogy/education, economics, law, politics, literature and
medicine. There is also a Center for Sustainable Development and the
School of Foundation Studies. Before starting their studies, all
candidates must attend the two-year School of Foundation Studies, which
roughly corresponds to upper secondary school. There are currently
around 26,600 students being trained at NUOL (as of 2008).
Laos has a
one-party system, the government of the country is carried out by the
People's Revolutionary Party of Laos (PRPL) of the communist type. The
President of Laos is elected by Parliament for a five-year term. The
government is headed by the Prime Minister of Laos, who is appointed by
the President upon approval by the National Assembly. Government policy
is determined by the Party through the nine-member Politburo and the
49-member Central Committee.
The new constitution of Laos, which
establishes the procedure for elections to the parliament (National
Assembly), was adopted in 1991. Despite the one-party system, elections
to the Lao parliament are formally held partially on an alternative
basis - in the 2016 vote, 211 candidates competed for 149 mandates.
After the death of Kason Phomvihan, who headed the PRPL for 36
years, and the country for 16 years, that is, until his death, a state
regime close to the Chinese was established in Laos, in which the leader
of the party and state remains in office for a limited amount of time
(maximum for currently 10 years), after which he resigns and is replaced
by another member of the leadership of the NRPL.