Mauritania

Mauritania is a country in the Sahara region. Part of the Maghreb, Mauritania borders Algeria, Senegal and Mali, as well as the disputed territory of Western Sahara.

Mauritania is basically made up of desert and ocean. It is not surprising that the main attractions for tourists are the desert, in the Adrar and Tagant areas (around Atar), and the ocean, in the Arguim Bank (a nature reserve full of dunes, with millions of birds and protected by the UNESCO). The Adrar region is exactly how you imagine the Sahara: endless ergs (dunes) and regs (rocky desert) with small mountains. Most tourists stay on the west coast of the country, although there are some attractions inland (for example, the rock formations of Aioun). If you decide to travel to these regions, you better have plenty of time.

Mauritania is an Islamic Republic. Don't be intimidated by the political status - most Mauritanians are not extremists, even though most people in the north of the country are very conservative and reserved. The southern part is full of friendly people, and very hospitable, even if they are not used to tourists.

Traveling to Mauritania has already been easier, with flights from France to Atar during the winter, although today they are suspended. Guides and tourist agencies are easy to find. However, Mauritania is not connected to the international banking system. A Visa card will only work at some international ATMs such as Atijari or the Société Générale in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou. Apart from these, credit cards are not accepted anywhere else. It is easy to exchange euros, dollars and CFA to ouguiya in Nouakchott, however.

 

Cities

Nouakchott, the capital and largest city of Mauritania. Highlights of the city include the Nouakchott Museum, various markets such as the Nouakchott Silver Market, and the beaches.
Atar - Known as a gateway to visit the ancient Moorish towns of Ouadane and Chinguetti (see below), it is also an important stop on the Dakar rally.
Chinguetti - Along with Ouadane, Oualata and Tichit, it's been a world heritage site since 1996. It's a former ksar, or medieval merchant town, center of the trans-Saharan routes. It continues to attract visitors who come to see its architecture, its old libraries and its exotic atmosphere.
Nouadhibou, a major fishing center and industrial port, as well as the second largest city in the country. Nouadhibou's tourist attractions include the Table Remarquable, several markets, a boat graveyard and Mediterranean monk seals.
Tichit, a partially abandoned city known for its ancient architecture. The small town also has a museum.
Other destinations
Banco de Arguim National Park - A national park on the Mauritanian coast, which is home to several species of birds (which, incidentally, are the main attraction of the park. It is close to Nouadhibou and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ouadane and Oualata - Along with Tichit and Chinguetti (see above) constitute a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their importance as ancient merchant towns. They contain a well-preserved historical heritage.

 

Getting there

All citizens of western nations need a visa to enter. People holding West African passports do not need a visa.

In 2009, visas to Mauritania could not be bought on arrival, so foreigners had to get them outside the country (eg Rabat). A single entry visa costs 37 euros, double entry is 52 euros. Two passport-sized photos are required, as well as a copy of the passport information pages. Visas are available the next day.

For most people, no vaccinations are needed to travel to Mauritania. Only people coming from yellow fever endemic areas need to present a vaccination certificate.

By airplane
Nouakchott International Airport is the only international airport in the country and the base of Mauritanian Airways, which flies from Paris (approximately five hours), Dakar, Abidjan and Nouadhibou. It also receives flights from Algiers through Air Algérie and from Paris through Air France. There are options for Tunes or Las Palmas. Another alternative is to take a charter flight, which costs around €400.

Of boat
The main port is Nouadhibou and there is also a small port at Nouakchott, while St. Louis in Senegal also serves Mauritania.

By car
You can enter Mauritania by land crossing the borders with Western Sahara, Mali or Senegal. These borders can be crossed by own vehicle or by bicycle.

The road from Western Sahara/Morocco enters the country near Nouadhibou. The road is paved all the way to the Moroccan border post of Fort Guerguarat, where you have to cross about seven kilometers on a winding and stony, yet simple, road until you reach the Mauritanian border, where the tarmac road starts again. Although the trip is simple, you have to be careful not to leave the road between the two border posts, because the region is a minefield. This danger is still present until you cross the train line, already on the Mauritanian side.

There are numerous roads that cross the border between Mauritania and Mali. The best choice is the one that connects Nara, in Mali to Ayoun al Atrous in Mauritania. Border formalities in Mali are carried out at various buildings around Nara (local children will take you to the police or customs in exchange for a small gift). Mauritanian formalities are carried out in a series of buildings along the border road.

An alternative route runs directly from Mauritania to Timbuktu, Mali. Travel to the road southeast of Néma, which is at the end of a tarred road leading from Nouakchott. This road continues to Bassekounou before crossing the border near Léré, Mali, then to Niafunké and on to Timbuktu.

 

By bus/coach or collective taxi
From Morocco: There are currently no buses, although CTM (the national bus company is planning to establish a service from Dakhla to Nouakchott. Access from Morocco is currently only available by hitchhiking (you can try Camping Moussafir north of Dakhla ) or by paying a passage from Mauritanian traders (which can be found north of Dakhla), costing between 250-380Dhs (negotiable). The journey should start very early and will take most of the day, and the border post is closed at night Cars driven by experienced drivers can be booked at Hotel Sahara This costs about 250Dhs per person Be careful and avoid a driver with an obvious disorder of facial pigmentation Has a reputation for being aggressive towards passengers
For Morocco: Cars and drivers can be arranged to cross the minefield from Mauritania to Western Sahara at hotels in Nouadhibou.
From Senegal: You can take a collective taxi from Dakar (6,000 CFA) and Saint-Louis (2,000 CFA) (among others) to Rosso, where a ferry makes the journey across the Senegal River, and other collective taxis can be taken as far as Nouakchott (about 2,000 UM). Beware of collective taxis offering deals that seem too good to be true. There may be illegal taxis and they can be a dangerous means of transport. There will likely be a few drivers waiting. Ask and find out the standard rate. Other border points with Senegal include the Diama Dam north of Saint-Louis.
From Mali: There are vans that leave Kayes for Selibaby daily. It is also possible to enter Nema, and across the southern border at several points.

by train/train
There are no trains between Mauritania and its neighbours.

   

Transport around the country

By airplane
Air Mauritanie (MR) operates flights between Nouakchott and Nouadhibou.

By car
There are good roads that connect Nouakchott with Rosso in the south of the country, Néma in the southeast and Akjoujt in the north. The Route de l'Espoir, a paved motorway runs from Nouakchott to Mali. All other routes are dust roads. In some regions during and after the rainy season, roads can be impassable. In the dry season the paths can be obscured by sand; a guide is highly recommended, if not essential.

It is recommended that you have an International Driving Permit, although it is not legally required.

Tourists should not attempt a desert trip without a spare set of parts and essential safety equipment. The Direction du Tourisme in Nouakchott, part of the Ministère du Commerce de l'Artisanat et du Tourisme, can provide further information and advice on trips of this type.

car hire
Available in Nouakchott, Nouadhibou and Atar. You can rent 4x4 vehicles and these are recommended, although they are expensive.

by bus/coach
Several companies (El Bouragh, El Gavileh, Global, Al-Moussavir, As-Salaam, Somtir, Sonef and LTM) operate the Nouakchott-Nouadhibou route, most of them making one trip per day.

by train/train
There is only one train line in the country, connecting Nouadhibou, Choum and Zouerat, which is a tourist attraction in itself. The train is said to be the longest in the world, with over 150 carriages and running over two kilometres. It is used to transport iron ore from the Zouerat mine to the port of Nouadhibou.

There is only one passenger carriage, but you can travel in one of the carriages carrying the iron ore (which is advisable as the passenger carriage is crowded). The ticket price is 1500 ougiyas if you go in the passenger car, while if you go in one of the other cars it's free. Remember to take a scarf to cover your face, as there is a lot of dust in the air.

 

Language

Hassaniya Arabic is the language of the Moorish majority, while other languages are spoken by black southern Africans, including Pulaar, Wolof, and Soninke (especially in the Guidimakha region around Selibaby). French is the second official language and is spoken by many, particularly near cities. In the countryside, people often speak several languages but not French.

It is considered polite to say Salaam aleikum when entering a taxi, office or when greeting someone. It is the greeting for many of the region's dialects.

 

Sights

Traditional villages in the interior of the country, such as Ouadane, Oualata, Tichitt and Chinguetti - In the interior of the country you can find old villages, forgotten by time and that have changed little over the centuries. They are one of the biggest attractions in the country, and well worth a visit.
Desert - The desert is one of the most characteristic elements of the country, and at sunset the dunes gain a new range of colors, and become much more beautiful. Very beautiful, one of the must-visit spots, especially during the cooler parts of the day (dawn and dusk; of course you could go at night, but you couldn't see anything).
Fishing villages - Scattered along the coast, these villages have a unique character. See the men pulling the fish and buy the freshest seafood in the country. Don't forget to haggle!

 

Shopping

You can buy souvenirs at Marche Capital or Marche Sixieme in Nouakchott, or in tourist shops on Adrar. Fabric is sold in boutiques across the country, but Kaedi is famous for its dyeing technique.

Overall, the quality of most Mauritanian souvenirs is not as high as one might expect. You can find leather products, pipes, wooden bowls, teapots and silver jewelry, among other things (be careful with the quality of the jewelry). The fabric, however, is hand-dyed and can be very beautiful. The fabric will be sold as a mulafa (veil) - usually transparent - or as material for a boubou, with two separate pieces, for a skirt and a top. Fabric costs between CU1500 to CU8000, depending on the quality and work involved.

When buying anything in Mauritania, try to negotiate the price. Sometimes the initial price can be up to three times more than the real price. Be nice, but don't worry if you insult someone by asking for a lower price.

 

Eat

There is a decent variety of restaurants in Nouakchott with dishes ranging from 1000 to 2500 UM. Most restaurants in the capital offer pretty much the same menu - simple pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches, and salads. There are a number of restaurants on the road from the Stade Olympique to the French Embassy. Some good restaurants on this road are: Pizza Lina, Cafe Liban, and Le Petit Cafe. Sahara Cafe, on the other side of the stadium, is also a good place for pizza, sandwiches or Lebanese food, and has some of the most reasonable prices in town. Close to the Marche Capitale, there is a street of sandwich shops offering almost identical menus, the best of which is Prince (which taxi drivers know by name).

Outside of Nouakchott, it is possible to find burgers in Atar. In addition, you only have traditional dishes to choose from: fish and rice (chebujin) in the south and meat with rice or couscous in the north. Mechui, or grilled sheep, is also delicious, although a bit more expensive. Some fruit can be found in most regional capitals. Most restaurants outside of Nouakchott are not very sanitary, so be careful. If you want, in the absence of a restaurant, you can pay a family to prepare the food for you, which should be relatively cheap (no more than 1500 one), although it takes a while (about two hours to buy the food and prepare it -there).

Bottled water can be purchased for 200 UM and is a good idea for people not used to Africa.

If none of the ideas appeal to you, you can go to a supermarket and buy bread, crackers and drinks.

Tea is normally served after a meal, but is not included with a meal in a restaurant. If you're offered tea at someone's house, it's not polite to leave until at least the second or third cup.

 

Drinks

Despite being an Islamic country there are some fun bars in the capital. Drinking can be expensive, however: beers can cost around 4.50 euros! There is a nightclub within the French Embassy complex. You can also try Salamander or Club VIP. Next to this is Casablanca, a bar with live music on weekends.

Note: It is illegal to import alcohol

 

Sleep

You can find accommodation of all types, although there are only higher class hotels in Nouakchott and Atar. "Auberges" and campsites can rent beds/mattresses for around 1500 ouguiya in Adrar and Nouadhibou.

There is usually at least one hotel in every regional capital, although they can be expensive. If possible, become friends with the locals and try to get invited to stay with the family. As long as you don't mind a) sleeping on the floor or a foam mattress b) sleeping/eating near animals, you're likely to have a memorable stay.

 

Security

The area near Western Sahara is a minefield, and traveling through this area is highly inadvisable. The border areas with Algeria and Mali are known for the number of robbers. In other areas, you should avoid showing money or expensive things. Although it can be intimidating, a little research and common sense will ensure a good trip to Mauritania.

Seek advice from your embassy or consulate. Due to the increasing number of attacks on Westerners in recent years, most Eastern nations advise great caution.

 

Health

For most Westerners, the local water is not safe to drink. Tourists should only drink bottled water if they don't have access to some sort of water filtration or purification system. The Sahara is a very dry climate. You can get dehydrated very easily, and not even realize it. In the hottest part of the year you may need to drink several liters of water a day.

The south of the country is an endemic area for malaria, and tourists should always use a mosquito net in this area. Mosquitoes are less common in the dry desert of the north of the country, but they exist all year round in the south, although there are fewer in the dry season (December-May).

 

Respect

Learn to say Salaam alaykum and greet people like that. If you're a man, don't try to shake a woman's hand, and vice versa (some African women have no problem shaking a man's hand, but it's best not to try to initiate contact). You can, however, say hello and touch your heart with your hand.

Be careful to eat with your right hand, especially outside of Nouakchott, as you may not be offered cutlery there. As elsewhere in the Arab world, the left hand is reserved for the toilet. If you're left-handed... try harder.

Covering your head isn't necessary, but it's polite. Westerners, especially women, can be targets of unwanted attention and harassment. Know, however, that many Mauritanians, both men and women, think that eye contact is a sexual invitation.

If you are traveling with someone of the opposite sex, avoid touching each other in public. It is much more common to see two men holding hands than a man and a woman. As for clothing, the more skin you show, the more negative attention you get. In Nouakchott, women can wear trousers, but avoid tops and knee-length skirts. Long skirts are the best choice for women. It's also a good idea to cover your arms.

If you are a woman there is no non-sexual reason to be private with a man. If they ask you to go into an office or go to the back of a store or something like that, don't go. If you stay private with a man, however briefly, everyone will assume you're going to have sex, and they'll judge you for it.

If you are gay or lesbian, do not reveal your sexuality to any Mauritanian. They would react very harshly to this. Don't do anything in public that implies you are, or you will be put to death.

If you are white, Nasrani, Toubac and Toubab are words referring to you. Small children, and sometimes naughty adults, may refer to you by this name. Nasrani means person from Nazareth. Since Christians follow the teachings of Christ, and Christ is from Nazareth, all Christians are Nazarenes.

Beware of people who take advantage of your good education to make a sale. Know that in markets, almost everyone will try to be your friend to sell you something for a higher price. They've tried various tricks to get him to buy (including "gifting"), and some might even accuse him of not liking Africans if he doesn't want to look into their shop.

 

Keep in touch

There are two GSM network operators: Mattel and Mauritel Mobiles. For more information on coverage and roaming, see GSM-World.

If you are traveling through the desert, where there is no network, you can use a satellite phone. Thuraya, Iridium or Inmarsat. Thuraya is the cheapest and easiest to use. Equipment is also available for hire.

You can find internet cafes with DSL internet in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou for 200-300 UM an hour. There are also "cybercafes" with slower internet spread across the country.

 

Geography

Nature

The surface of Mauritania presents a fairly uniform picture. The coastal strip, in the south between the mouth of the Senegal and Cap Timiris, is a flat, level coast, in the north a steep coast with bays and islands, and inland there is an extensive lowland, which forms the western edge of the Sahara with its sand dune fields. A short steep climb leads to the largely flat highland (300-500 m above sea level) in the central part of the country. Here lie the sandstone plateaus of Adrar, Tagant and Affollé as well as individual inselbergs, including Kediet Ijill, the highest elevation in the country at 915 m. The natural wonder of Guelb er Richat is located in the center of the Sahara, on the border between the administrative regions of Tiris Zemmour and Adrar. To the east, the plateaus, which are mainly covered with scree fields, descend to the sand-filled El Djouf basin, which has no outlet. The only river in Mauritania that has a constant flow of water is the Senegal, which forms the border with its neighbouring country of the same name to the south.

 

Climate

Located in the Tropic of Capricorn, Mauritania has a mostly dry, hot desert climate. The only source of cooling is the cold Canary Current off the coast, which often causes fog in the coastal area. In the northern half of the country, precipitation falls in winter, but rarely more than 100 mm per year; in the far south, it is 300–400 mm, mainly from July to October. Average January temperatures are 20–24 °C, July temperatures 30–34 °C, with maximum summer temperatures reaching 50 °C.

 

Flora and fauna

Grass and bush areas as well as acacias mark the transition from the desert steppe to the thorn savannah of the Sahel. Date palms grow mainly in the oases, and in the floodplain savannah of Senegal there are also raffia palms, baobabs and bamboo. There are extensive salt marshes in the coastal region.

Originally, the savannahs were home to large animals such as antelopes, elephants, lions and hyenas; the desert steppe provided sufficient food for gazelles, ostriches, warthogs, cheetahs and wild cats. However, most of the country's larger animal species are extinct. Various scorpions and snakes can be found in the dunes.

Nile crocodiles have also been discovered in Mauritania, which mostly live on gueltas and make the best use of the low rainfall to retreat into cool crevices underground during the dry season. They reduce their metabolism to a minimum and fall into a state of torpor that allows them to survive for months without water or food.

Between 1990 and 2000, the forest cover decreased by 2.7 percent.

 

National parks

There are two national parks in Mauritania:
Banc d’Arguin National Park (designated in 1976)
Diawling National Park (designated in 1990)

 

History

The earliest evidence of settlement by nomadic Berbers and black African peoples dates back to 10,000 BC. The country's name is derived from the Saharan tribe of the Moors. This is also where the names of the Roman provinces on the African Mediterranean coast, Mauretania Tingitana and Mauretania Caesariensis, come from, which have nothing to do with the present-day country of Mauritania.

When Arab warriors brought Islam to the Maghreb in the 7th century, nothing changed in the life of the community of peoples south of the Sahara. Islam spread along the trade and caravan routes through the Sahara, but remained a religion of "foreign traders" for centuries until the upper classes in the African urban communities also became interested in this religion and converted to Islam. Even when the great empires of West Africa converted to Islam in the 11th century and Islam penetrated further into the region from Lake Chad (Kanem-Bornu) and the Niger (Gana, Songhai, Mali), the life of the rural population, which was shaped by traditional religions and animism, was preserved. Muslims had their own city apart from the royal city - as is reported from the Niger Arc, for example - they led an independent life within the kingdoms, and when the ruler and his family converted to Islam, this did not simultaneously mean the Islamization of the entire state. Chinguetti was considered the seventh holiest site in Islam and was for a long time the religious center of a large area and a meeting point for pilgrims on their way to Mecca.

At the beginning of the 11th century, Islamized Moors founded the Almoravid Empire, which in its heyday in the 11th and 12th centuries also incorporated the kingdom of Gana and extended as far as the Ebro in Spain. This empire collapsed in 1147; the north of Mauritania remained loosely connected to Morocco, the south to Mali. Towards the end of the 15th century, the nomadic Kunta Arabs began to preach the doctrine of Islam again. Around the middle of the 16th century, the Qadiriyya brotherhood, to which the Kunta Arabs belonged, began to spread Islam throughout western Sudan. It was only during this period that Islam changed from a mere "religion of rule" to the religion of the individual, but non-Islamic ruling houses ruled in old Muslim strongholds until the 18th century. Then a reform of Islam began among the Fulbe and other tribes, which was accompanied by ideologization and radicalization.

 

Colonial period

Since the country's coast was difficult to access and the colonial powers had no knowledge of the natural resources available for centuries, they showed little interest in Mauritania until the end of the 19th century (see Arguin). At the turn of the 20th century, the French began to subjugate the country from the south, which was of strategic importance to them as a link between West and North African possessions. In 1904, the area became French territory as part of French West Africa (AOF), and in 1920 a French colony, but it was not until 1934 that the French succeeded in suppressing the last uprisings in the north. After the Second World War, Mauritania became an overseas province as part of the French decolonization policy and thus a member of the Union française.

According to the Loi Lamine Guèye of 1946, all citizens had the right to vote in elections to the French parliament and also in local elections. The right to stand for election was not explicitly mentioned in the law, but was not excluded either. In French West Africa, which included Mauritania, there was no two-class voting system for elections to the Paris Parliament as in other French colonies, but there was for all local elections. Until 1955, there were still areas in the east of the country that were unknown to Europeans: that year, the Frenchman Théodore Monod was the first European to cross the El Djouf region. On June 23, 1956, while still under French administration, the loi-cadre Defferre was introduced, confirming universal suffrage. The first elections took place in 1957. In 1959, Mokhtar Ould Daddah became head of government.

 

Independence

Despite Moroccan claims to Mauritania, the country gained its independence on November 28 (National Day) 1960. On May 20, 1961, women's active and passive suffrage was adopted in the now independent state. Ould Daddah, who also called himself "Father of the Fatherland", was also President from 1961 and Secretary General of the Mauritanian People's Party (PPM) from 1964. The disputes between the neighboring countries over ownership of the former Spanish overseas province of Spanish Sahara (Western Sahara), which had existed since around 1970, ended in 1976 after Spain withdrew from the territory with its annexation by Morocco and Mauritania. Since then, the Saharan guerrilla movement Polisario has been fighting to establish its own state. This conflict had catastrophic economic consequences for Mauritania, which ultimately led to the overthrow of Ould Daddah and the banning of the PPM in 1978. In August 1979, Mauritania gave up all claims to the Western Sahara territory. In the years that followed, Mauritania experienced several coups and government reshuffles. Colonels Mustafa Ould Salek (1978–1979), Mohamed Mahmoud Ould Louly (1979–1980) and Mohamed Khouna Ould Haidalla (1980–1984) ruled in succession. On December 12, 1984, Colonel Maaouya Ould Sid’Ahmed Taya came to power. At the beginning of 1991, he announced a democratic transformation of the country. In accordance with a constitution adopted in July 1991, free parliamentary and presidential elections were held in 1992, although these were contested by the opposition.

 

Military coup d’état in 2005

Due to the constant stagnation and the lack of reforms, there were repeated coup attempts against Taya, which finally succeeded on August 3, 2005. On that day, a group of officers calling themselves the Military Council for Justice and Democracy (Conseil Militaire pour la Justice et la Démocratie CMJD) occupied the army headquarters, the headquarters of the state radio and television, as well as the ministries and the presidential palace in Nouakchott and declared President Taya deposed. The putschists had taken advantage of Taya's stay abroad in Saudi Arabia for the funeral of King Fahd and suspended the constitution. Taya did not return to Mauritania, but after stops in Niger and Gambia, found refuge in Qatar. The putschists appointed the long-serving police and intelligence chief, Colonel Ely Ould Mohammed Vall, as the new leader of the country. The new military government announced that it would introduce democratic conditions in Mauritania within two years. Colonel Vall was appointed chairman of the 17-member military council and thus head of state and government. On August 5, Mauritania was temporarily excluded from the African Union (AU) "until constitutional order is restored."

A new, more democratic constitution was approved by the population in a constitutional referendum in June 2006. The first round of parliamentary elections took place on November 19 with a turnout of 69.5%, and the second round on December 3, 2006. Members of the military government had promised in the run-up to the elections not to run for public office themselves. Almost half of the seats were won by independent candidates, including many members of the former ruling party who did not want to be associated with the overthrown regime, as well as Islamists whose parties had been banned. In the run-up to the elections, the opposition and civil society groups had accused the military government of weakening the established parties and promoting independent candidacies in order to maintain greater influence on the political process. Election observers described the elections as free and fair. On January 21 and February 4, 2007, the Senate was elected in indirect elections by 3,688 local councils.

In the presidential elections on March 11, none of the 20 candidates was able to achieve the necessary absolute majority. The former finance minister Sidi Mohamed Ould Cheikh Abdallahi, who had lived abroad for 15 years and was considered the candidate of the military government, achieved the best result with 24.8% of the vote in a voter turnout of 70.2%, just ahead of the candidate of the opposition CFCD, Ahmed Ould Daddah, with 20.7%. Daddah is a half-brother of Mauritania's first president after independence, Mokhtar Ould Daddah. Since 2000, Daddah had become the most important opponent of the deposed President Taya and had been imprisoned several times. The third strongest candidate was the former head of the central bank, Zeine Ould Zeidane. While the two candidates from the black African minority did surprisingly well with eight to almost ten percent, the two candidates from the Islamist camp fell well short of expectations with just under two to almost eight percent. The runoff election on March 25 ended with a voter turnout of 67.4% and Abdallahi won, receiving 52.9% of the vote after Zeidane and other candidates recommended his election to their supporters. Daddah acknowledged his defeat. On April 19, Abdallahi appointed Zeidane as the new prime minister.

 

Elections 2006

After the 2006 parliamentary elections, the Coalition des Forces du Changement Démocratique (CFCD) won a total of 41 seats, the former ruling party Parti Républicain, Démocrate et Social (PRDS) only seven, and other parties and independent candidates a total of 47 seats. In the Senate, the independents have 38 seats and the CFCD 15.

 

After the military coup in 2008

On August 6, 2008, there was another military coup against the country's president and head of government. The military had taken both politicians into custody in the capital Nouakchott. The French Foreign Office initially reported that a group of Mauritanian generals had arrested the head of government, Yahya Ould Ahmed El Waghef. Eyewitnesses reported troop movements in Nouakchott to foreign press representatives. Radio and television stations stopped broadcasting as a result. The military junta was led by four high-ranking officers who had recently been dismissed for opposing an increasing turn to Islamist forces. The self-proclaimed "State Council" of eleven members of the army was led by the former commander of the presidential guard, General Mohamed Ould Abdel Aziz. Previously, 69 of the 95 members of parliament had called for President Abdallahi to resign.

 

Presidential elections 2009 to 2019

On July 18, 2009, presidential elections were held for the first time since the coup. There were nine candidates, including the former junta leader Aziz. The election was monitored by 250 international observers. On July 20, the Interior Ministry announced that Abdel Aziz had won 52.6 percent of the vote. He was thus the election winner. The four most promising competitors accused Aziz of electoral fraud.

In the second presidential election after the coup, which took place in June 2014, Mohammed Ould Abdel Aziz received more than 80 percent of the votes cast according to the official count. Voter turnout this time was more than 56 percent. Aziz had four opponents, with the larger opposition parties calling for a boycott of the election.

Mauritania has been relatively safe since 2011, mainly due to the stable security situation and effective measures against terrorism. There has not been a single attack in the Islamic Republic since then. Security is largely ensured by the Méharistes, dromedary-riding patrols that patrol the borders and play an important role in protecting the country. This unit not only supports national security, but also interacts with the local population (and supplies them with medicine, for example) to build trust and gather information, which contributes to stability in the region. Mauritania also enjoys the trust of the West because it is considered a reliable partner in the fight against terrorism.

 

Culture

The culture of the Moors is shaped by the formerly dominant nomadic way of life. The highly developed handicraft tradition produced jewelry and household items (wooden bowl gdah) that are intended for life in the tent (chaima) and for transport by camel (riding saddle rahla). In the tent, luggage is stored on a rack (amchaqab). The armrest cushion surmije was adopted from the tent into the living rooms of the houses. The centers of handicrafts are Boutilimit (silver and leather goods) and Mederdra (wood carvings and blacksmithing) in the administrative region of Trarza.

 

Music

The sophisticated music of the Bidhan historically belongs to the ruling class of the Hassani (warrior caste) and is influenced by Arabic music. The complex music theory is based on the musical possibilities of the internal spike lute tidinit, which is only played by men. Women play the bow harp ardin as the only melodic instrument. The usual rhythm instrument used by women is the kettle drum t'bol. Professional musicians traditionally belong to the Iggāwen (sing. iggīw) caste of musicians, who are counted among the West African Griots due to their social function as storytellers. In today's urban music scene, the tidinit has largely been replaced by the louder-sounding electric guitar.

The Arab-West African-influenced folk music of the Haratin and craftsmen (maʿllemīn) differs from the music of the Bidhan. Their musical instruments for private entertainment are the one-stringed calabash lute gambra (cf. gimbri) and the one-stringed bowed lute rbāb (cf. ribāb). There are also various flutes and percussion instruments, such as the calabash rattle daghumma. The music of the black African Soudans is based on the musical styles of Mali and Senegal.

 

Mauritanian cuisine

Due to the dry, hot desert climate, vegetables usually have to be imported to Mauritania at great expense, which is why they are rarely on the menu in Mauritanian cuisine. Fish and seafood are also rarely on the table, even though Mauritania is on the Atlantic. Popular types of meat are beef, lamb and chicken, but pigeons and antelopes are also popular.

In Mauritania, couscous is considered a national dish. Other typical Mauritanian specialties are Maru we-llham (rice with meat) and Al mechwi (meat cooked in heated sand). Popular drinks are tea, which is usually heavily sweetened, as well as milk, curds and zrig, a chilled drink made from yoghurt or milk, water and sugar. A cooking culture could not develop in a nomadic everyday life that was characterized by the search for pastureland, water and constant scarcity. The basis of nutrition in the desert is camel milk or cow's milk and dates. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century that the tea culture from Morocco spread throughout the country and green tea with peppermint became the national drink.

 

Sport

Until 2007, the Dakar Rally and since 2009 the Africa Eco Race have passed through Mauritania.

Special Olympics Mauritania was founded in 1997 and has taken part in the Special Olympics World Games several times.

 

Population

Demography

Mauritania had 4.9 million inhabitants in 2023. Annual population growth was + 2.6%. A surplus of births contributed to population growth (birth rate: 33.0 per 1000 inhabitants vs. death rate: 7.2 per 1000 inhabitants). The number of births per woman was statistically 4.3 in 2022. Starting from a high level of almost 7 children per woman, the fertility rate has been falling continuously since the 1960s. The life expectancy of Mauritania's inhabitants from birth was 64.7 years in 2022. The median age of the population in 2021 was 17.6 years. In 2023, 41.2 percent of the population was under 15 years old, while the proportion of people over 64 was 3.2 percent of the population.

 

Population structure

The previously high proportion of nomads has declined sharply. In 1957, 90% of the population still lived as nomads in tents; there were no larger cities. In contrast, by 2020, 55% of the population already lived in cities. Four fifths of the population live on 15% of the country's surface area, mainly in the south.

More than other cities, Nouakchott reflects the problems caused by rapid and uncontrolled urbanization. Initially built as a small central administrative center with around 30,000 inhabitants in 1959, it reached more than 40,000 inhabitants by 1970 and grew by 15 to 20% per year in the 1970s. This rapid growth continues at the beginning of the 21st century: in 2013, the city had almost a million inhabitants. The resulting lack of water and housing is a major problem. Most of the new arrivals end up in so-called kebbas (suburban districts) that have sprung up in the vicinity of the capital. In 1983, a French researcher estimated that more than 40% of Nouakchott's population lived in kebbas and that the proportion would continue to rise. The Mauritanian government tried to solve this problem by offering land and seeds as well as transport to all those willing to return to the rural areas. However, the implementation of this ambitious program proved difficult in view of the persistent drought.

A significant number of foreigners - more than 15% of the workforce in modern economic sectors - are necessary to meet the demand for skilled workers. At the same time, more than 600,000 Mauritanians left their country in search of employment in West Africa, the Middle East and Western Europe.

 

Ethnic groups

In Mauritania, Arab, Berber and black African ethnic groups come together, which have mixed so much with each other that it is almost impossible to give percentages for individual ethnic groups. Around 70% of the population speak Hassania. They belong to the Arab-Berber Moors. Around half of these Hassania speakers are called Bidhan or White Moors and belong to the two upper classes of the traditionally highly hierarchical Mauritanian society, the Hassani (warriors) and Marabout (Islamic scholars). The other half are called Haratin. These people, who are on average somewhat darker-skinned, have ancestors who were formerly slaves. The remaining 30% of the total population is shared by several black African peoples (together known as Soudans), who live predominantly along the Senegal River in the south. A similar classification estimates roughly 30% (white) Moors, 40% dark-skinned Moors and 30% blacks for 2010. The black African peoples include the predominantly agricultural Tukulor and the Fulbe, traditionally cattle herders. Both are grouped together as Halpulaaren because of their common language, Pulaar. Smaller ethnic groups are the Sarakolé, Wolof and Bambara. Around 5,000 Europeans (mostly French) live in the country.

The compromise between the different cultures of Mauritania is important for the cohesion of the nation. Traditionally, the country is divided - also geographically - according to these ethnic groups into the so-called Ard al-Bīdān, which means "land of the whites", and Ard as-Sūdān, "land of the blacks". However, these frequently used terms are not intended to be pejorative. The division is more of an economic and traditional origin than an ethnic one. In fact, many black Africans belong to the nomadic world, and the term "Moors" or "Bīdān" applies to all nomadic groups that have been culturally Arabized - regardless of their ethnic origin, i.e. including the "Moors" with a black African background. The category "black Africans" (négro africains) includes all non-Arabic-speaking Mauritanians. An even broader classification propagated by black nationalists also includes the Arabic-speaking Haratins as "black Mauritanians" (négro-mauritaniens), with the intention of being able to form a larger front against the "white" Mauritanians. Today, Islam is seen as a bond between the different ethnic groups and is the only legitimization of any law recognized by the people.

In 2017, 3.8% of the population was born abroad. Most foreigners come from Mali, Senegal and France.

 

Languages

The only official language today is Arabic; French, which was officially spoken during the colonial period, has been preserved as a working, commercial and educational language. French is the language of instruction alongside Arabic.

The majority of the language spoken is Hassania, the Moorish variety of Arabic. The West Atlantic languages ​​Pulaar and Wolof and the Mande language Soninke are also recognized national languages. The Berber languages ​​Imeraguen and Zenaga are also spoken, but they are almost extinct.

 

Religion

Almost 100% of the population are now Sunni Muslims who belong to the Maliki school of law. The tiny minority of Mauritanian Christians, mainly Catholics, play no role in public life. There are hardly any followers of the Jewish religion.

 

Education

Although there is compulsory schooling for 6- to 11-year-olds, only around 75% of children are enrolled in school. Around 46.5% of the population are illiterate despite increasing primary school attendance (2017). The average length of schooling for those over 25 in 2020 was only 4.7 years, while the expected length of schooling for the next generation is 8.6 years. In 2013, the country spent only 2.9% of its already small economic output on education. The school system used to be divided into a (dominant) Arabic-speaking branch and a (smaller) French-speaking branch. Since 1999, all teaching in the first year of primary school has been in Arabic, but French lessons have become compulsory for all pupils and students. Science subjects are generally taught in French at universities.

The country has had the University of Nouakchott, the École Normale Superieure de Nouakchott and the Chinguetti Modern University since 1983.

 

Health

The country's health expenditure amounted to 4.1% of gross domestic product in 2021. In 2020, there were 2.1 doctors per 10,000 inhabitants practicing in Mauritania. The mortality rate for children under 5 was 39.2 per 1,000 live births in 2022. The life expectancy of Mauritania's inhabitants from birth was 64.7 years in 2022 (women: 66.4, men: 63). Life expectancy increased by 6% from 61 years in 2000 to 2022.

The largest and most modern hospital is the Centre Hospitalier National de Nouakchott (National Hospital) in the country's capital, completed in 2001. The regional hospital in Kaédi (Hôpital de Kaédi) received an architecture award in 1995 for its ecologically adapted construction.

Different ethnic groups in Mauritania practice female genital mutilation to varying degrees. From the results of the Mauritanian population and health study (EDSM - Enquête Démographique et de la Santé) of 2000/01, the GTZ concludes that 71% of women and girls are affected. A law from December 2005 now criminalizes "intervention on the genital organs of a female child" "if the child has suffered harm as a result". The Association of Imams and Oulémas issued a fatwa against female genital mutilation in 2006. In contrast to most other African countries, AIDS is not a major problem in Mauritania. In 2020, less than 0.3% of the population was affected.

 

Politics

Political system

According to the 2006 constitution, Mauritania is an Islamic presidential republic. The head of state is elected directly by the people every five years for a maximum of two terms. He appoints and dismisses the government.

In the presidential elections on June 22, 2019, Mohamed Ould Ghazouani was elected with 52% in the first round to succeed Mohamed Ould Abdel Aziz, whose second term ended. Both are members of the Union for the Republic (Union pour la république, UPR) and are considered close political confidants. Although election observers found irregularities, they nevertheless assessed the election as peaceful and overall satisfactory. For the first time in the country's history, a non-violent transition was achieved. Since the election, the new president has increasingly distanced himself from his predecessor and isolated him from political influence. At the same time, Ghazouani is pursuing a more inclusive political style by consulting more frequently with representatives of civil society and the opposition. In August 2019, he appointed Ismaïl Ould Bedda Ould Cheikh Sidiya (UPR) as prime minister, whose government resigned after just one year. He was succeeded by Mohamed Ould Bilal.

Parliament consists of the National Assembly, whose 157 members are elected every five years in a mixture of majority and proportional representation. Four MPs are elected by Mauritanians abroad. Men and women have the right to vote from the age of 18. Almost 100 parties took part in the last election in September 2018, including opposition parties that boycotted previous elections. The ruling UPR won a majority of 89 seats. The largest opposition party is the Islamist Tawassoul party. Election observers from the African Union criticized inconsistencies, but did not call into question the validity of the election.

A bicameral parliament existed until 2017. However, the Senate was abolished in a constitutional referendum. Its 56 members (three representatives of Mauritanians living abroad) were elected indirectly every six years.

 

Human rights

Islam is the state religion. Islamic law (Shari'a) applies. A Muslim who converts to another religion is threatened with the death penalty under Article 306 of the criminal law for apostasy (Ridda), but this has not yet been imposed.

In its 2010 annual report, the human rights organization Amnesty International particularly pointed to disproportionate violence and systematic torture against demonstrators, prisoners and the civilian population. Amnesty International also received reports in 2009 of harsh and arbitrary punishments. The prisons are overcrowded.

A UN special rapporteur who deals with modern forms of slavery, including its causes and consequences, visited Mauritania in October and November 2009. She praised the efforts of the government and civil society to abolish slavery. At the same time, however, she stressed that an approach to combating all forms of discrimination and poverty must be found that is based on more holistic thinking, cooperation and sustainability. This approach must also encompass the whole of society. Slavery has been officially abolished since 1980, but is still practiced throughout the country. According to estimates by the anti-slavery organization SOS Esclaves, there were 600,000 slaves in Mauritania in 2010. The proportion of slaves in the total population is the highest in the world. Despite its repeated official abolition - most recently in 2007 - slavery in Mauritania continues and affects the descendants of people who were enslaved generations ago and have not yet been freed, the majority of whom are black. Many of these people include children. The proportion of working children among ten to fifteen year olds was estimated at 20% in 2019.

A UN special reporter on modern forms of racism expressed concern about the ongoing discrimination against the black population of Mauritania in politics, the economy and society. The white Moor elite has long held most of the political power, while hundreds of thousands of black Moors still live in slavery and the Sudanese have been oppressed. Conflicts between white Moors and Sudanese culminated in 1989, when tens of thousands of Sudanese fled across the border to Senegal after attacks. In 2007, the new Mauritanian government signed an agreement with Senegal to enable the return of these refugees.

Although Mauritania signed the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination against Women (CEDAW) in 2000, targeted attacks continue to occur. On April 19, 2009, for example, security forces kicked and beat numerous women, including former ministers, MPs and human rights defenders. They used sticks and belts. The women had gathered in front of the United Nations representation in Nouakchott for a sit-in. The former education minister Nebghouha Mint Mohamed Vall and her daughter were beaten by the police. Another woman, who was also beaten, lost consciousness and had to be taken to hospital.

The situation of homosexuals, bisexuals and transgender people in Mauritania is threatening; they are persecuted, threatened and punished with death.

 

Military

The Mauritanian armed forces comprise 15,870 soldiers. The military is divided into the army, air force and navy. The defense budget in 2020 was an estimated 200 million US dollars, which corresponds to 2.5% of the gross domestic product.

 

Foreign policy

Mauritania is a member of the United Nations, the African Union (AU), the Organization of the Islamic Conference (OIC), the Arab Maghreb Union (UAM) and the Arab League. It was one of the few member states of the Arab League to maintain diplomatic relations with the State of Israel. Israel had an embassy in the capital of Mauritania until it was closed under pressure from the Arab League following previous protests against the Gaza War in 2009 and has not yet been reopened.

 

Administrative divisions

Mauritania is divided into 15 regions, three of which form the capital Nouakchott. The following list shows the names of the regions and the corresponding capitals in brackets.
Adrar (Atar)
Assaba (Kiffa)
Brakna (Aleg)
Dakhlet Nouadhibou (Nouadhibou)
Gorgol (Kaedi)
Guidimaka (Sélibaby)
Hodh Ech Chargui (Néma)
Hodh El Gharbi (Ayoun el-Atroûs)
Inchiri (Akjoujt)
Nouakchott North
Nouakchott Ouest
Nouakchott Sud
Tagant (Tidjikja)
Tiris Zemmour (Zouérat)
Trarza (Rosso)

 

Economy

Mauritania is one of the poorest countries in the world and suffers from rural exodus, inadequate infrastructure in the cities, poor transport conditions and an uncertain political situation that discourages foreign investment. The main economic sectors in Mauritania are agriculture, fishing and ore mining. The most important mineral resources are iron ore mining in the F’dérik/Zouérat area, while copper and gold mining take place on a smaller scale near Akjoujt. Since 2006, oil has been extracted from the Chinguetti oil field off the coast in the Atlantic. Using traditional methods, millet, pulses, rice and maize are grown in the Senegal Valley, mainly for self-sufficiency; the cultivated area is limited to just 0.2% of the country's surface area. New dam projects on the Senegal River are intended to open up new irrigation areas. Livestock farming with sheep, goats, cattle and camels was the main economic sector until 1960 and is run by nomads and, in the south, by semi-nomadic farmers.

Mauritania's coastal waters are very rich in fish, but their ability to regenerate is threatened by excessive catches. In 1975, the state began to develop its own fishing industry, which was intended to find a way out of the economic crisis caused by years of drought and the conflict in the Western Sahara. The fishing zone was extended to 200 miles. Through joint ventures with foreign fishing companies, which the Mauritanian state entered into from 1979, the income from the fishing industry exceeded the income from iron ore exports in the 1980s and 1990s. Having its own fleet proved to be less profitable than granting concessions to European, Russian and Chinese fishing companies.

In 2017, agriculture contributed 22.5%, industry 37.8% and the service sector 39.7% to the gross domestic product (GDP), which grew by 3.8% that year. In 2014, however, 50% of the workforce was employed in agriculture and only 1.9% in industry. In 2017, goods worth US$2,190 million were imported, mainly petroleum products and industrial products; export products were iron ore, fish and fish products, gold and copper. Mauritania imported 21% of its imports from Belgium, 11.5% from the UAE, 9.2% from the USA and 7.5% from China. Exports amounted to US$1,606 million and went 31.2% to China, 14.4% to Switzerland, 10.1% to Spain and 8.2% to Germany. Inflation was 2.1% in 2017, and unemployment was 11.7% in 2016. Underemployment is very high.

In the Global Competitiveness Index, which measures a country's competitiveness, Mauritania ranked 137th out of 138 countries (as of 2016-17). In the Index of Economic Freedom, the country ranked 131st out of 180 countries in 2017.

 

State budget

The state budget in 2016 included expenditure of the equivalent of 1,430 million US dollars, compared to revenues of the equivalent of 1,143 million US dollars. This corresponds to a budget deficit of 8.1% of GDP. The national debt in 2016 was 99.6% of GDP.

 

Infrastructure

The entire road network in 2010 covered around 10,628 km, of which 3,158 km are paved.

The only railway line runs from a mine near F’dérik in the north of the country across the Sahara to the port city of Nouadhibou. The trains that run here are among the longest and heaviest in the world. Over 200 wagons are pulled by up to four locomotives. They carry up to 21,000 tons of iron ore. The railway line’s biggest enemy is sand. A sand removal team is stationed every hundred kilometers, whose job it is to clear the tracks that have been covered in sand. The sand is so aggressive that the tracks and the train's wear and tear parts only have a sixth of their normal lifespan.

The only international airport with regular flights from abroad is in Nouakchott. Nouadhibou and the oasis town of Atar have international airports with irregular or seasonal connections abroad.