Mauritania is a country in the Sahara region. Part of the
Maghreb, Mauritania borders Algeria, Senegal and Mali, as well as
the disputed territory of Western Sahara.
Mauritania is
basically made up of desert and ocean. It is not surprising that the
main attractions for tourists are the desert, in the Adrar and
Tagant areas (around Atar), and the ocean, in the Arguim Bank (a
nature reserve full of dunes, with millions of birds and protected
by the UNESCO). The Adrar region is exactly how you imagine the
Sahara: endless ergs (dunes) and regs (rocky desert) with small
mountains. Most tourists stay on the west coast of the country,
although there are some attractions inland (for example, the rock
formations of Aioun). If you decide to travel to these regions, you
better have plenty of time.
Mauritania is an Islamic
Republic. Don't be intimidated by the political status - most
Mauritanians are not extremists, even though most people in the
north of the country are very conservative and reserved. The
southern part is full of friendly people, and very hospitable, even
if they are not used to tourists.
Traveling to Mauritania has
already been easier, with flights from France to Atar during the
winter, although today they are suspended. Guides and tourist
agencies are easy to find. However, Mauritania is not connected to
the international banking system. A Visa card will only work at some
international ATMs such as Atijari or the Société Générale in
Nouakchott and Nouadhibou. Apart from these, credit cards are not
accepted anywhere else. It is easy to exchange euros, dollars and
CFA to ouguiya in Nouakchott, however.
The climate is characterized by extreme temperatures and irregular and scarce precipitation. Annual temperature variations are small, although diurnal variations can be extreme. The harmattan, a warm dry and sometimes dusty wind, comes from the Sahara during the long dry season and is the predominant wind, except along the coast, which is influenced by ocean winds. Most of the rain falls during the short rainy season (hivernage), from July to September, and annual rainfall ranges from 500 to 600 millimeters in the far south to less than 100 millimeters in the north, about two-thirds of the country.
Nouakchott, the capital and largest city of Mauritania.
Highlights of the city include the Nouakchott Museum, various markets
such as the Nouakchott Silver Market, and the beaches.
Atar - Known
as a gateway to visit the ancient Moorish towns of Ouadane and
Chinguetti (see below), it is also an important stop on the Dakar rally.
Chinguetti - Along with Ouadane, Oualata and Tichit, it's been a world
heritage site since 1996. It's a former ksar, or medieval merchant town,
center of the trans-Saharan routes. It continues to attract visitors who
come to see its architecture, its old libraries and its exotic
atmosphere.
Nouadhibou, a major fishing center and industrial port,
as well as the second largest city in the country. Nouadhibou's tourist
attractions include the Table Remarquable, several markets, a boat
graveyard and Mediterranean monk seals.
Tichit, a partially abandoned
city known for its ancient architecture. The small town also has a
museum.
Other destinations
Banco de Arguim National Park - A
national park on the Mauritanian coast, which is home to several species
of birds (which, incidentally, are the main attraction of the park. It
is close to Nouadhibou and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ouadane
and Oualata - Along with Tichit and Chinguetti (see above) constitute a
UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their importance as ancient merchant
towns. They contain a well-preserved historical heritage.
All citizens of western nations need a visa to enter. People holding
West African passports do not need a visa.
In 2009, visas to
Mauritania could not be bought on arrival, so foreigners had to get them
outside the country (eg Rabat). A single entry visa costs 37 euros,
double entry is 52 euros. Two passport-sized photos are required, as
well as a copy of the passport information pages. Visas are available
the next day.
For most people, no vaccinations are needed to
travel to Mauritania. Only people coming from yellow fever endemic areas
need to present a vaccination certificate.
By airplane
Nouakchott International Airport is the only international airport in
the country and the base of Mauritanian Airways, which flies from Paris
(approximately five hours), Dakar, Abidjan and Nouadhibou. It also
receives flights from Algiers through Air Algérie and from Paris through
Air France. There are options for Tunes or Las Palmas. Another
alternative is to take a charter flight, which costs around €400.
Of boat
The main port is Nouadhibou and there is also a small
port at Nouakchott, while St. Louis in Senegal also serves Mauritania.
By car
You can enter Mauritania by land crossing the borders with
Western Sahara, Mali or Senegal. These borders can be crossed by own
vehicle or by bicycle.
The road from Western Sahara/Morocco
enters the country near Nouadhibou. The road is paved all the way to the
Moroccan border post of Fort Guerguarat, where you have to cross about
seven kilometers on a winding and stony, yet simple, road until you
reach the Mauritanian border, where the tarmac road starts again.
Although the trip is simple, you have to be careful not to leave the
road between the two border posts, because the region is a minefield.
This danger is still present until you cross the train line, already on
the Mauritanian side.
There are numerous roads that cross the
border between Mauritania and Mali. The best choice is the one that
connects Nara, in Mali to Ayoun al Atrous in Mauritania. Border
formalities in Mali are carried out at various buildings around Nara
(local children will take you to the police or customs in exchange for a
small gift). Mauritanian formalities are carried out in a series of
buildings along the border road.
An alternative route runs
directly from Mauritania to Timbuktu, Mali. Travel to the road southeast
of Néma, which is at the end of a tarred road leading from Nouakchott.
This road continues to Bassekounou before crossing the border near Léré,
Mali, then to Niafunké and on to Timbuktu.
By bus/coach or collective taxi
From Morocco: There are currently
no buses, although CTM (the national bus company is planning to
establish a service from Dakhla to Nouakchott. Access from Morocco is
currently only available by hitchhiking (you can try Camping Moussafir
north of Dakhla ) or by paying a passage from Mauritanian traders (which
can be found north of Dakhla), costing between 250-380Dhs (negotiable).
The journey should start very early and will take most of the day, and
the border post is closed at night Cars driven by experienced drivers
can be booked at Hotel Sahara This costs about 250Dhs per person Be
careful and avoid a driver with an obvious disorder of facial
pigmentation Has a reputation for being aggressive towards passengers
For Morocco: Cars and drivers can be arranged to cross the minefield
from Mauritania to Western Sahara at hotels in Nouadhibou.
From
Senegal: You can take a collective taxi from Dakar (6,000 CFA) and
Saint-Louis (2,000 CFA) (among others) to Rosso, where a ferry makes the
journey across the Senegal River, and other collective taxis can be
taken as far as Nouakchott (about 2,000 UM). Beware of collective taxis
offering deals that seem too good to be true. There may be illegal taxis
and they can be a dangerous means of transport. There will likely be a
few drivers waiting. Ask and find out the standard rate. Other border
points with Senegal include the Diama Dam north of Saint-Louis.
From
Mali: There are vans that leave Kayes for Selibaby daily. It is also
possible to enter Nema, and across the southern border at several
points.
by train/train
There are no trains between Mauritania
and its neighbours.
By airplane
Air Mauritanie (MR) operates flights between
Nouakchott and Nouadhibou.
By car
There are good roads that
connect Nouakchott with Rosso in the south of the country, Néma in the
southeast and Akjoujt in the north. The Route de l'Espoir, a paved
motorway runs from Nouakchott to Mali. All other routes are dust roads.
In some regions during and after the rainy season, roads can be
impassable. In the dry season the paths can be obscured by sand; a guide
is highly recommended, if not essential.
It is recommended that
you have an International Driving Permit, although it is not legally
required.
Tourists should not attempt a desert trip without a
spare set of parts and essential safety equipment. The Direction du
Tourisme in Nouakchott, part of the Ministère du Commerce de l'Artisanat
et du Tourisme, can provide further information and advice on trips of
this type.
car hire
Available in Nouakchott, Nouadhibou and
Atar. You can rent 4x4 vehicles and these are recommended, although they
are expensive.
by bus/coach
Several companies (El Bouragh, El
Gavileh, Global, Al-Moussavir, As-Salaam, Somtir, Sonef and LTM) operate
the Nouakchott-Nouadhibou route, most of them making one trip per day.
by train/train
There is only one train line in the country,
connecting Nouadhibou, Choum and Zouerat, which is a tourist attraction
in itself. The train is said to be the longest in the world, with over
150 carriages and running over two kilometres. It is used to transport
iron ore from the Zouerat mine to the port of Nouadhibou.
There
is only one passenger carriage, but you can travel in one of the
carriages carrying the iron ore (which is advisable as the passenger
carriage is crowded). The ticket price is 1500 ougiyas if you go in the
passenger car, while if you go in one of the other cars it's free.
Remember to take a scarf to cover your face, as there is a lot of dust
in the air.
Hassaniya Arabic is the language of the Moorish majority, while other
languages are spoken by black southern Africans, including Pulaar,
Wolof, and Soninke (especially in the Guidimakha region around
Selibaby). French is the second official language and is spoken by many,
particularly near cities. In the countryside, people often speak several
languages but not French.
It is considered polite to say Salaam
aleikum when entering a taxi, office or when greeting someone. It is the
greeting for many of the region's dialects.
Traditional villages in the interior of the country, such as Ouadane,
Oualata, Tichitt and Chinguetti - In the interior of the country you can
find old villages, forgotten by time and that have changed little over
the centuries. They are one of the biggest attractions in the country,
and well worth a visit.
Desert - The desert is one of the most
characteristic elements of the country, and at sunset the dunes gain a
new range of colors, and become much more beautiful. Very beautiful, one
of the must-visit spots, especially during the cooler parts of the day
(dawn and dusk; of course you could go at night, but you couldn't see
anything).
Fishing villages - Scattered along the coast, these
villages have a unique character. See the men pulling the fish and buy
the freshest seafood in the country. Don't forget to haggle!
You can buy souvenirs at Marche Capital or Marche Sixieme in
Nouakchott, or in tourist shops on Adrar. Fabric is sold in boutiques
across the country, but Kaedi is famous for its dyeing technique.
Overall, the quality of most Mauritanian souvenirs is not as high as
one might expect. You can find leather products, pipes, wooden bowls,
teapots and silver jewelry, among other things (be careful with the
quality of the jewelry). The fabric, however, is hand-dyed and can be
very beautiful. The fabric will be sold as a mulafa (veil) - usually
transparent - or as material for a boubou, with two separate pieces, for
a skirt and a top. Fabric costs between CU1500 to CU8000, depending on
the quality and work involved.
When buying anything in
Mauritania, try to negotiate the price. Sometimes the initial price can
be up to three times more than the real price. Be nice, but don't worry
if you insult someone by asking for a lower price.
There is a decent variety of restaurants in Nouakchott with dishes
ranging from 1000 to 2500 UM. Most restaurants in the capital offer
pretty much the same menu - simple pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches, and
salads. There are a number of restaurants on the road from the Stade
Olympique to the French Embassy. Some good restaurants on this road are:
Pizza Lina, Cafe Liban, and Le Petit Cafe. Sahara Cafe, on the other
side of the stadium, is also a good place for pizza, sandwiches or
Lebanese food, and has some of the most reasonable prices in town. Close
to the Marche Capitale, there is a street of sandwich shops offering
almost identical menus, the best of which is Prince (which taxi drivers
know by name).
Outside of Nouakchott, it is possible to find
burgers in Atar. In addition, you only have traditional dishes to choose
from: fish and rice (chebujin) in the south and meat with rice or
couscous in the north. Mechui, or grilled sheep, is also delicious,
although a bit more expensive. Some fruit can be found in most regional
capitals. Most restaurants outside of Nouakchott are not very sanitary,
so be careful. If you want, in the absence of a restaurant, you can pay
a family to prepare the food for you, which should be relatively cheap
(no more than 1500 one), although it takes a while (about two hours to
buy the food and prepare it -there).
Bottled water can be
purchased for 200 UM and is a good idea for people not used to Africa.
If none of the ideas appeal to you, you can go to a supermarket and
buy bread, crackers and drinks.
Tea is normally served after a
meal, but is not included with a meal in a restaurant. If you're offered
tea at someone's house, it's not polite to leave until at least the
second or third cup.
Despite being an Islamic
country there are some fun bars in the capital. Drinking can be
expensive, however: beers can cost around 4.50 euros! There is a
nightclub within the French Embassy complex. You can also try Salamander
or Club VIP. Next to this is Casablanca, a bar with live music on
weekends.
Note: It is illegal to import alcohol
You can find accommodation of all
types, although there are only higher class hotels in Nouakchott and
Atar. "Auberges" and campsites can rent beds/mattresses for around 1500
ouguiya in Adrar and Nouadhibou.
There is usually at least one
hotel in every regional capital, although they can be expensive. If
possible, become friends with the locals and try to get invited to stay
with the family. As long as you don't mind a) sleeping on the floor or a
foam mattress b) sleeping/eating near animals, you're likely to have a
memorable stay.
The area near Western Sahara is a
minefield, and traveling through this area is highly inadvisable. The
border areas with Algeria and Mali are known for the number of robbers.
In other areas, you should avoid showing money or expensive things.
Although it can be intimidating, a little research and common sense will
ensure a good trip to Mauritania.
Seek advice from your embassy
or consulate. Due to the increasing number of attacks on Westerners in
recent years, most Eastern nations advise great caution.
For most Westerners, the local water is not safe to drink.
Tourists should only drink bottled water if they don't have access to
some sort of water filtration or purification system. The Sahara is a
very dry climate. You can get dehydrated very easily, and not even
realize it. In the hottest part of the year you may need to drink
several liters of water a day.
The south of the country is an
endemic area for malaria, and tourists should always use a mosquito net
in this area. Mosquitoes are less common in the dry desert of the north
of the country, but they exist all year round in the south, although
there are fewer in the dry season (December-May).
Learn to say Salaam alaykum and greet people like that. If you're a man,
don't try to shake a woman's hand, and vice versa (some African women
have no problem shaking a man's hand, but it's best not to try to
initiate contact). You can, however, say hello and touch your heart with
your hand.
Be careful to eat with your right hand, especially
outside of Nouakchott, as you may not be offered cutlery there. As
elsewhere in the Arab world, the left hand is reserved for the toilet.
If you're left-handed... try harder.
Covering your head isn't
necessary, but it's polite. Westerners, especially women, can be targets
of unwanted attention and harassment. Know, however, that many
Mauritanians, both men and women, think that eye contact is a sexual
invitation.
If you are traveling with someone of the opposite
sex, avoid touching each other in public. It is much more common to see
two men holding hands than a man and a woman. As for clothing, the more
skin you show, the more negative attention you get. In Nouakchott, women
can wear trousers, but avoid tops and knee-length skirts. Long skirts
are the best choice for women. It's also a good idea to cover your arms.
If you are a woman there is no non-sexual reason to be private with
a man. If they ask you to go into an office or go to the back of a store
or something like that, don't go. If you stay private with a man,
however briefly, everyone will assume you're going to have sex, and
they'll judge you for it.
If you are gay or lesbian, do not
reveal your sexuality to any Mauritanian. They would react very harshly
to this. Don't do anything in public that implies you are, or you will
be put to death.
If you are white, Nasrani, Toubac and Toubab are
words referring to you. Small children, and sometimes naughty adults,
may refer to you by this name. Nasrani means person from Nazareth. Since
Christians follow the teachings of Christ, and Christ is from Nazareth,
all Christians are Nazarenes.
Beware of people who take advantage
of your good education to make a sale. Know that in markets, almost
everyone will try to be your friend to sell you something for a higher
price. They've tried various tricks to get him to buy (including
"gifting"), and some might even accuse him of not liking Africans if he
doesn't want to look into their shop.
There are
two GSM network operators: Mattel and Mauritel Mobiles. For more
information on coverage and roaming, see GSM-World.
If you are
traveling through the desert, where there is no network, you can use a
satellite phone. Thuraya, Iridium or Inmarsat. Thuraya is the cheapest
and easiest to use. Equipment is also available for hire.
You can
find internet cafes with DSL internet in Nouakchott and Nouadhibou for
200-300 UM an hour. There are also "cybercafes" with slower internet
spread across the country.