The Historic Columbia River Highway, often abbreviated as HCRH, is a roughly 75-mile scenic byway in Oregon, stretching from Troutdale (near Portland) eastward through the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area to The Dalles. Designated as America's first planned scenic roadway and a National Historic Landmark, it winds along the southern bank of the mighty Columbia River, showcasing dramatic basalt cliffs, lush temperate rainforests, and over a dozen waterfalls cascading from the gorge walls. Engineered with elegant viaducts, tunnels, and stone guardrails, the highway offers a blend of natural wonders and early 20th-century architecture, with no commercial development to interrupt the views. It's ideal for leisurely drives at 35-45 mph, cycling on car-free sections, and accessing hiking trails. Managed by the Oregon Department of Transportation, U.S. Forest Service, and Oregon State Parks, it's free to access, though some sites require permits for parking or hiking.
Origins and Planning
The origins of the Historic Columbia River
Highway trace back to the challenges of traversing the Columbia River
Gorge, a dramatic landscape carved by the Columbia River through the
Cascade Mountains. In the 19th century, Oregon Trail pioneers struggled
with this barrier until the Barlow Road opened in 1846 as a detour
around Mount Hood. By the 1870s, a rudimentary wagon road known as The
Dalles and Sandy Wagon Road was built along the south shore, but it
featured treacherous 20% grades and narrow paths unsuitable for emerging
automobiles.
The push for a modern highway gained momentum in the
early 1900s amid the "good roads" movement and the rise of automobiles
like the Model T. Key figures included lawyer and entrepreneur Sam Hill,
a fervent advocate for improved infrastructure who traveled extensively
in Europe and was inspired by scenic routes such as Switzerland's
Axenstrasse. Hill, founder of the Maryhill Museum of Art, experimented
with innovative designs on the Maryhill Loops Road in Washington
State—the first asphalt road there, completed in 1911 using horseshoe
curves to navigate steep terrain. Facing resistance in Washington, Hill
shifted focus to Oregon, helping establish the Oregon State Highway
Commission in 1913.
Engineer Samuel C. Lancaster, Hill's
collaborator, was appointed to lead the project. Lancaster conducted
surveys from September 1913 to January 1914, prioritizing aesthetic and
scenic value over purely economic considerations. As locating engineer
John Arthur Elliott noted, factors like grades, curvature, and cost were
secondary to accessing "natural beauty spots" such as waterfalls,
canyons, and mountain vistas. Multnomah County initially funded $75,000,
with the state overseeing design to bypass local politics. Governor
Oswald West demonstrated feasibility in 1912 by using prison labor to
clear a path over Shellrock Mountain.
Other notable contributors
included timber magnate Simon Benson, who financed Hood River County
bonds in 1914 to cover cost overruns, and bridge designer Conde
McCullough, who later gained fame for his work on U.S. Route 101.
Construction Timeline and Phases
Construction unfolded in phases
across Multnomah, Hood River, and Wasco Counties, costing about $11
million in total (adjusted for inflation, a significant investment). The
highway featured gentle 5% maximum grades, 200-foot minimum curve radii,
and an 18-foot-wide macadam or asphalt pavement with gravel
shoulders—standards advanced for the era.
Multnomah County
(1913–1916): Work began with a 21-mile survey to the Hood River County
line. Innovations included comprehensive drainage systems with concrete
curbs, gutters, and culverts to protect against the gorge's heavy
rainfall. Eleven reinforced concrete bridges and viaducts were built,
along with masonry retaining walls. The Oneonta Tunnel, the first of
five, opened in October 1914 near Horsetail Falls. Surfacing with
Warrenite (a bituminous material) was completed by summer 1915, making
it the first paved highway in the Pacific Northwest. A new Sandy River
Bridge replaced one destroyed in 1914, and the section was dedicated in
June 1916 at Multnomah Falls and Crown Point. Photographers like William
Henry Jackson captured the process.
Hood River County (1914–1916):
Funded by bonds, construction included the iconic Mitchell Point Tunnel,
begun in March 1915 and opened in September for $47,000. This 390-foot
tunnel featured five windows for light and views, mimicking European
designs. Loops were added to ascend steep grades, and the Hood River
Bridge was rebuilt in 1918.
Wasco County (1918–1922): The final
inland route via Rowena Crest incorporated dramatic loops to descend 600
feet over 2 miles. Bridges designed by McCullough spanned canyons, and
the section followed an abandoned railroad grade. The highway was fully
paved and opened on June 27, 1922, with Benson symbolically laying the
last asphalt. It became part of Columbia River Highway No. 2, extending
to Astoria and Pendleton.
Engineering Features and Scenic
Highlights
The highway's design emphasized harmony with the
environment, minimizing earthmoving while maximizing views. Standout
features included:
Bridges and Viaducts: Structures like the
Multnomah Creek Bridge, Shepperd's Dell Bridge, and Eagle Creek Bridge
showcased reinforced concrete and elegant arches.
Tunnels: Besides
Oneonta and Mitchell Point, the Mosier Twin Tunnels (1920) had windows
in the east tunnel.
Loops and Overlooks: The Figure-Eight Loops at
Crown Point, Hood River Loops, and Rowena Loops allowed graceful
navigation of steep terrain. Vista House at Crown Point, completed in
1918 as a rest area with marble interiors, offered panoramic views and
served as a memorial to Oregon pioneers.
Guard Walls and Drainage:
Dry masonry walls blended with the landscape, and innovative drainage
prevented erosion.
Usage and Early Popularity
Upon opening
sections progressively from 1914 onward, the highway quickly became a
tourist draw, integrated into U.S. Route 30 in 1926. It facilitated
pleasure drives through the gorge, connecting coastal and eastern Oregon
while promoting economic growth through tourism.
Decline and
Bypassing
By the 1930s, increasing traffic, rockfalls, and the need
for faster routes led to its decline. The Bonneville Dam construction in
the 1930s necessitated realignments, closing parts like the east portal
of Toothrock Tunnel. The Mosier Tunnels were widened in 1938 for trucks,
but the highway was largely bypassed by the water-level route of
Interstate 84 (originally Columbia River Highway No. 2) from the 1930s
to 1950s. Sections were abandoned, with the Oneonta Tunnel sealed in
1948.
Preservation and Current Status
Preservation efforts
began in earnest with its 1983 addition to the National Register of
Historic Places as the Columbia River Highway Historic District,
encompassing 38 structures over 529 acres. The 1986 Columbia River Gorge
National Scenic Area designation spurred reconnections. Restorations
included reopening the Oneonta Tunnel in 2009 for pedestrians and
cyclists after a $1.5 million project. The 2017 Eagle Creek Fire damaged
sections, but they reopened in 2018.
Today, the highway is maintained
by the Oregon Department of Transportation as Historic Columbia River
Highway No. 100 (partially U.S. Route 30) and by the Oregon Parks and
Recreation Department as the Historic Columbia River Highway State
Trail. About 40 miles remain open to vehicles, with 7 miles between Hood
River and Mosier dedicated to non-motorized use since 2000. It serves as
a bicycle-friendly alternative to I-84, attracting visitors for its
historical and scenic value.
The highway is best driven west to east, following the river's flow,
and can be completed in 3-5 hours non-stop, but plan 1-2 days for
explorations. It's divided into three main segments: the western
"Waterfall Corridor" (Troutdale to Ainsworth), the central restored
trail sections, and the eastern drier plateau to The Dalles. Mileposts
aren't consistently used, but distances from Troutdale provide
reference. Below is a detailed list of key stops, organized west to
east, with descriptions, significance, and activities. This focuses on
highlights among dozens of pullouts and trails.
Section: Western
Waterfall Corridor (Miles 0-30 from Troutdale)Key Stops: Portland
Women's Forum State Scenic Viewpoint (Mile 3); Vista House at Crown
Point (Mile 4); Latourell Falls (Mile 6); Shepperd's Dell Falls (Mile
8); Bridal Veil Falls (Mile 9); Wahkeena Falls (Mile 12); Multnomah
Falls (Mile 13); Oneonta Gorge (Mile 15); Horsetail Falls (Mile
16)Description and Significance: Begins with sweeping gorge panoramas
from the Women's Forum overlook, honoring the highway's female
advocates. Vista House, a 1918 octagonal observatory atop a 733-ft
promontory, serves as a memorial and info center with Art Nouveau
details. Waterfalls abound: Latourell plunges 249 ft over columnar
basalt; Multnomah, at 620 ft, is Oregon's tallest with a historic lodge
and Benson Footbridge. Oneonta features a slot canyon hike through
chest-deep water (seasonal). These sites showcase the gorge's volcanic
geology and misty microclimate.Activities and Tips: Short hikes (e.g.,
0.2-mile paved path to Latourell base); photography from viewpoints;
picnicking at Multnomah Lodge. Tip: Start early to avoid crowds;
timed-entry permits required for Multnomah area (May-Sept, $1 online);
watch for rockfall and slippery trails.
Section: Central Gorge (Miles
30-50)Key Stops: Ainsworth State Park (Mile 30); Elowah Falls (Mile 32,
via trail); Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail (various access
points); Beacon Rock (Mile 35, across river in WA but visible);
Bonneville Dam (Mile 40); Eagle Creek Trail (Mile 42); Cascade Locks
(Mile 45)Description and Significance: Transitions to forested canyons
with the car-free State Trail (restored HCRH segments for
biking/hiking). Bonneville Dam, a 1930s New Deal project, includes fish
ladders for salmon viewing. Eagle Creek features Punch Bowl Falls in a
basalt amphitheater. Cascade Locks marks the site of historic rapids now
submerged by the dam, with the Bridge of the Gods tying to Native
legends.Activities and Tips: Biking the 14-mile trail from Hood River to
Mosier (rentals available); salmon watching (Sept-Oct); camping at
Ainsworth ($22/night). Tip: Detour north via Bridge of the Gods for
Washington views; check for trail closures due to wildfires.
Section:
Eastern Plateau (Miles 50-75 to The Dalles)Key Stops: Hood River (Mile
50, detour); Mitchell Point Overlook (Mile 55); Rowena Crest and Tom
McCall Preserve (Mile 65); Memaloose Overlook (Mile 70); Columbia Gorge
Discovery Center (Mile 75 in The Dalles)Description and Significance:
Landscape shifts to arid grasslands and oak savannas. Rowena Crest
offers hairpin turns and wildflower meadows (peak April-May). Memaloose
provides river views with indigenous history ties. The Discovery Center
museum interprets gorge ecology, Lewis and Clark, and pioneer
trails.Activities and Tips: Wildflower hikes at Tom McCall (2-mile
loop); windsurfing in Hood River (world-renowned spot); museum visits
($10 entry). Tip: End with fruit stands in Hood River Valley; watch for
strong winds affecting driving.
Driving: The primary experience—curvy, two-lane road with pullouts
for vistas; RVs under 35 ft recommended due to tight turns.
Biking/Hiking: Over 100 miles of trails, including the Eagle Creek to
Tunnel Falls (12 miles round-trip) and car-free State Trail segments;
e-bikes allowed on some paths.
Camping: Options like Ainsworth State
Park (tents/RVs, reservations advised) or primitive sites; nearby RV
parks in Hood River.
Other: Windsurfing/kiteboarding in the gorge's
winds; wildlife viewing (osprey, salmon); wine tasting in Hood River
Valley; sternwheeler cruises from Cascade Locks. Detours to Mt. Hood or
Washington side add variety.
Spring (April-June) for waterfalls at peak flow and wildflowers; summer (July-Aug) for warm weather but crowds; fall (Sept-Oct) for foliage and salmon runs; avoid winter due to ice/snow closures. Year-round access, but check ODOT alerts for rockslides or fires (e.g., post-2017 Eagle Creek Fire recovery). Download offline maps for spotty cell service; fuel up in towns as no services on the highway. Respect nature—stay on trails to prevent erosion; leashed pets allowed but not in some buildings. For families or accessibility, focus on viewpoints like Vista House; permits needed for popular hikes ($5/day via Recreation.gov).