Francisco Perito Moreno National Park, Argentina

Perito Moreno National Park

Location: Santa Cruz Province   Map

Area: 126,830 hectares

 

Perito Moreno National Park (strictly Perito Francisco P. Moreno National Park and Reserve) is a national park in Argentina, located in the center-west of the province of Santa Cruz in Patagonia, on the border with Chile. It covers 126,830 ha in a mountainous region cut by valleys, some of which are located at more than 900 meters above sea level. The area of ​​the Perito Moreno National Park is subdivided into two management areas: a national park with 85,500 ha, and a protected area with managed resources with 29,500 ha. Decree No. 2149/90 of October 10, 1990 designated a sector of the first area as a strict nature reserve.1 The limits of the national park cover territories corresponding to two ecoregions: the Patagonian steppe and the Patagonian forests.

Place names
The name of the national park perpetuates the memory of Dr. Francisco Pascasio Moreno, an outstanding naturalist, founder of the Argentine national park system and the Museo de La Plata.

 

Visiting tips

Best Time to Visit
The park is open roughly October 1 to April 30 and closed to the public in winter due to weather and road conditions. Summer (December–February) brings longer days and average temperatures around 15 °C, but strong westerly winds and sudden snow or rain can occur any month. Shoulder seasons (October–November or March–April) offer fewer people and, later in the season, reddish lenga foliage. Always check current road and trail status with the park before traveling, as weather can alter access.

Getting There
The nearest town is Gobernador Gregores, about 220 km away via National Route 40 and Provincial Route 37 (the final ~90 km is gravel/ripio). The drive typically takes 3.5–6 hours depending on conditions. Access is also possible from the town of Perito Moreno (longer route) or via a long drive from El Calafate (often with an overnight in Gregores). There is no regular public transport. You need your own vehicle (high-clearance recommended) or a private transfer/guided tour.
Vehicle preparation is essential: fill fuel in Gobernador Gregores or Bajo Caracoles (there is none inside the park), carry extra fuel, and bring two spare tires. Check road conditions in advance. Internal park roads are dirt/gravel.

Entry and Registration
Admission is free. All visitors must register at the Centro Operativo Clemente Onelli / Oficina de Informes Ceferino Fonzo (typically 9:00–19:00). Arrive with enough daylight to reach your intended camping or refuge spot. For overnight or longer mountain activities, complete the mandatory mountain activity registration after confirming reservations.

Trails and Things to Do
The park has more than 100 km of marked trails ranging from easy short walks to multi-day treks. Trails include bridges and signage where needed, but difficulty comes from distance, wind, exposure, and rapid weather changes rather than extreme elevation gain on many routes.

Main circuits:
Península Belgrano (parking ~10 km from Onelli): Circuito Chico (~9.6 km, moderate, 3–4 hours) and Circuito Grande (~16.8 km, higher difficulty, 5–6 hours). These offer views over turquoise Lago Belgrano, surrounding peaks (including toward Cerro San Lorenzo), and the Río Volcán. Four refugios are along the routes.
Circuito Azara (~52 km, high difficulty, 4–5 days): Transitions from steppe through lenga forest to Lago Azara, with views of peaks and a waterfall (Cascada del Azara). Multiple refugios along the way.
Valle del Río Lácteo / Laguna de los Témpanos (~17 km in sections, high difficulty, 2–3 days): Accesses the dramatic face of Cerro San Lorenzo (3,706 m) and a lagoon that can hold ice blocks from the Lácteo Glacier. Refugios include Gilberto and Kris & Doug Tompkins.
Shorter options: Mirador Lago Belgrano (~8 km, moderate); interpretive “Un Paisaje con Historia” trail near Onelli (easy, with rock art); Mirador Lago Volcán (~600 m one way); short ascents or viewpoints at Cerro León and Lago Burmeister; bird observatory at Lagunas del Mié (~8 km from Onelli).

Wildlife and birding: Common sightings include guanacos, Andean condors, foxes, and choiques. Huemul (a national natural monument) and pumas are present but rarely seen—observe from a distance and report any huemul sightings to rangers. The park and nearby areas form an Important Bird Area (AICA) with ~120 species, including flamingos, torrent ducks, and others around wetlands and lakes.

Accommodation and Reservations
The park offers shared refugios (huts/domos, typically for 3–6 people), adjacent camping plots, and limited motorhome spots. These are basic (tables, chairs, sometimes mattresses, and a wood stove/salamandra) and shared with other visitors. You must bring your own sleeping bag, food, cooking gear, utensils, and hygiene items. Open fires are prohibited everywhere—use only stoves. Maximum stay is usually two nights (occasionally three at specific sites).
Reservations are mandatory and must be made in advance via reservasperitomoreno@bancodebosques.org (managed through a partnership with Fundación Banco de Bosques; check for any updated online portal). After confirmation, complete the mountain activity registration. Book well ahead in peak season. There is no shop or provisioner inside the park, so bring everything. Limited lodging exists outside at nearby estancias or in Gobernador Gregores.

Practical Tips and What to Bring
Self-sufficiency is required: No fuel, food stores, ATM, or reliable phone signal inside the park (WiFi is available only at the visitor center). Carry offline maps/GPS, power banks, flashlight, first-aid kit, and extra layers.
Clothing: Layer system (base layer, fleece/insulation, waterproof/windproof shell). Good hiking boots, sun protection (strong UV and reflection off water/snow), gloves, and hat. Temperatures can drop to or below freezing even in summer.
Water and food: Carry sufficient safe water or treatment method—do not drink untreated from streams or lakes. Pack all food and pack out every piece of waste.
Time needed: At least two days (including travel) for a short visit focused on easier trails near the entrance; three or more days for multi-day circuits.
Rules and safety: No pets, no boating, no fires, stay on trails, and respect wildlife. Strong winds are common. Groups are advisable on longer routes. Inform the park of your plans. The isolation means preparation and self-reliance are critical.
Guides: Authorized guides are available if preferred—ask the park for the current list.

Contacts
Park intendancy: Paseo 9 de Julio 610, Gobernador Gregores, Santa Cruz. Phone: 02962-409358 (or 491477). Email: peritomoreno@apn.gob.ar
Overnight reservations: reservasperitomoreno@bancodebosques.org
Official information: argentina.gob.ar (search Parque Nacional Perito Moreno)

 

Geography

Location and Setting
The park lies in the Río Chico Department, centered near 47°49′ S, 72°15′ W. The nearest significant town is Gobernador Gregores, about 220 km away; access is via National Route 40 and Provincial Route 37 (partly gravel).
Valleys sit at roughly 900 m above sea level. The terrain consists of successive mountain chains running east–west and north–south that form a broad natural amphitheater when viewed from the eastern entry valleys. The western boundary follows the international border with Chile.

Relief and Peaks
Inside the park the highest summit is generally cited as Cerro Heros at about 2,770 m. Other notable features include:

Cerro León (~1,380–1,405 m) north of Lago Belgrano
Gorra de Vasco (~1,140 m) east of the same lake
Sierra Colorada (~1,200 m), named for its reddish western slopes and abrupt western face
Cerro Mié / Cerro del Mié (around 2,250 m), a central peak between major lakes

Just outside the western or northern margins stands Monte San Lorenzo (Cerro San Lorenzo / Monte Cochrane), at 3,707 m—one of the highest peaks in southern Patagonia and often cloud-shrouded.
The landscape transitions from high eastern plateaus and steppe through foothills into steeper Andean slopes with rocky outcrops, U-shaped glacial valleys, and occasional permanent snow or small glaciers.

Hydrography
Eight main lakes of glacial origin dominate the park, colored turquoise to emerald by glacial flour. They belong to two major drainage systems:

Pacific basin (the majority): Includes Lago Belgrano (one of the largest, with a long irregular shoreline and the Belgrano Peninsula), Mogote, Península, Volcán, Azara, Escondido, and Nansen, linked by rivers such as Volcán, Cabrera, San Lorenzo, Penitente, and Lácteo. These waters ultimately reach the Pacific (via systems connected to Lago San Martín / O’Higgins and the Pascua River).
Atlantic basin: Lago Burmeister (at ~932 m, with grayish waters) drains via the Río Roble into the Río Belgrano, then the Río Chico, and eventually the Río Santa Cruz to the Atlantic.

Numerous smaller lagoons, streams, and wetlands (mallines) occur, especially in the steppe. The lakes sit in basins carved or dammed by Pleistocene glaciation.

Climate
The climate is cold and strongly influenced by persistent, often gale-force westerly winds (frequently exceeding 100 km/h). Precipitation increases sharply from east to west due to the Andean orographic barrier: roughly 400 mm annually on the drier eastern steppe side to as much as 3,000 mm on the wetter western slopes.
Summer mean temperatures are around 15 °C, while winter minima commonly reach −25 °C to −30 °C. Snow can fall in any month, including summer. The combination of elevation, latitude, and wind produces a harsh environment with marked seasonal contrasts and frequent cloud cover over the higher peaks.

Geology and Landforms
The park spans a sector of the southern Patagonian Andes and the western edge of the Austral Basin. Exposed rocks include Devonian–Carboniferous metasediments (Río Lácteo Formation), Jurassic sediments and volcanic rocks (including the El Quemado Complex), thick Cretaceous marine and continental sequences of the Austral Basin, and later Cenozoic volcanic and intrusive rocks (granites, granodiorites, etc., of the San Lorenzo Plutonic Complex).
The modern topography was largely sculpted by extensive Pleistocene and Holocene glaciation, producing the characteristic U-shaped valleys, moraine-dammed lakes, and glacial deposits later modified by fluvial and mass-movement processes.

Ecoregions and Vegetation Zones
The park protects representative samples of two main ecoregions: the Patagonian Steppe and the Patagonian Forests (Andean-Patagonian forest).
Three broad zones are evident:
Eastern steppe: Dominated by dense tussock grasses (coirón) and twisted shrubs (mata torcida), with scattered lagoons that attract waterfowl.
Transition/ecotone: Stunted, wind-sculpted vegetation, mainly ñire (Nothofagus antarctica) and lenga (Nothofagus pumilio).
Forests: Primarily lenga woodlands (sometimes reaching substantial height in sheltered sites), concentrated along the shores of lakes such as Nansen and Azara; higher or more exposed areas support krummholz or shrub forms. Autumn colors of lenga are striking.

 

Flora and fauna

Fauna
Perito Moreno National Park in Santa Cruz Province protects a largely intact sample of southern Patagonian wildlife. Of the roughly 24 mammal species recorded in the area, only one is exotic (the European hare). One additional native species, the gato del pajonal or gato pajero (Leopardus pajeros / Leopardus colocolo), may also occur; it is listed as threatened on national red lists. The small gato huiña (Leopardus guigna), another endangered feline, finds refuge here as well. Among the canids are the small gray fox (Lycalopex griseus) and the larger red or culpeo fox (Lycalopex culpaeus).
Guanacos (Lama guanicoe) are abundant, and herds of these quiet camelids are frequently seen, especially on the peninsula of Lake Belgrano. The region’s most formidable predator is the puma (Puma concolor), which helps regulate populations of guanacos, huemul, and smaller prey. Other mammals include wildcats (including the gato montés, Leopardus geoffroyi), the piche or dwarf armadillo (Zaedyus pichiy), ferrets (hurón menor, Galictis cuja), skunks (zorrino patagónico, Conepatus humboldtii), and the tucu-tucu (a burrowing rodent).
The huemul (Hippocamelus bisulcus), a highly endangered native deer and National Natural Monument, finds a safe refuge in the park. In winter it descends from higher slopes into the valleys in search of food and shelter in the forests. Another distinctive resident is the pilquín, also known as the chinchillón anaranjado or orange mountain viscacha (Lagidium wolffsohni). This species lives on rocky cliffs and mesetas, is restricted to Santa Cruz and adjacent areas of Chile, and differs from other Patagonian mountain viscachas. It has a low reproductive rate and is considered data-deficient or previously endangered; recent sightings confirm its continued presence in the park.

Birds
About 115 bird species have been recorded in the park, of which a small number nest there. Among the most notable is the hooded grebe or macá tobiano (Podiceps gallardoi), a critically endangered aquatic bird endemic to Santa Cruz that historically found protection in the park’s lakes and lagoons. The peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) also occurs, as do Andean condors (Vultur gryphus) soaring over the hills, black-chested buzzard-eagles (águila mora, Geranoaetus melanoleucus), and other raptors. In the steppe, various tinamous and “corraleras” are present, and four species of snipe or seed-snipe breed among the coirón grasses. Flocks of diucas and other small birds frequent the higher slopes.
Lagoons and wetlands attract the Chilean flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis), various ducks (Anas and related genera) including steamer ducks and the piebald duck, grebes (hualas), and geese (cauquenes). There are also records of black-necked swans (Cygnus melancoryphus) and coscoroba swans (Coscoroba coscoroba). The lesser rhea or choique (Rhea pennata) is another characteristic species of the open steppe. The park and surrounding areas form an Important Bird Area.

Aquatic Fauna
The rivers and lakes support native fish locally called “peladilla” (small native galaxiids such as Galaxias platei), which are edible. Unlike many other Patagonian parks, exotic salmonids have not been widely introduced in the park’s waters, improving the chances that the native fish fauna can persist. Puyenes (other Galaxias species) are also present.

Flora
The park contains three clearly defined vegetation zones. The eastern steppe is dominated by dense coirón grasslands (Festuca and related tussock grasses) and scattered “mata torcida” or crooked, wind-sculpted shrubs. A transition zone features stunted, wind-pruned vegetation (tussock grassland and low shrubs). Farther west, a low or stunted forest of ñire (Nothofagus antarctica) and lenga (Nothofagus pumilio) gives way to climax lenga forest that grows mainly along the shores of Lakes Nansen and Azara. In milder, more protected sites, guindo (Nothofagus betuloides) can also appear. Lenga trees may reach 20–30 m in sheltered lowlands but form dense, low, twisted shrublands where exposure to wind and altitude is greater. High-Andean vegetation occupies a significant portion of the park and contributes much of its vascular plant diversity.