Turkmenistan, officially - Turkmenistan is located in Central
Asia. It received its modern borders only in 1923-1924. The
independence of the country was proclaimed on October 27, 1991. The
official form of government is a secular constitutional unitary
presidential republic, but in fact it is a secular-traditionalist
super-presidential totalitarian-isolationist hereditary
dictatorship, with an almost ultra-right unspoken nationalist
ideology of the superiority of the Turkmen-Tekins.
Turkmenistan is the 4th country in the world in terms of natural gas
reserves. The territory of the country has a rich and ancient
history.
Geography
The area of the country is 491,200 km².
The country is located in the southwestern part of Central (Middle)
Asia, mainly within the Turan lowland and the Karakum desert.
Turkmenistan borders with Iran in the south and with Afghanistan in
the south and southeast, with Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan in the
north, in the west the coast is washed by the waters of the Caspian
Sea.
The Karakum desert occupies the central part of the
country, stretching from west to east for 880 km (375,000 sq. km).
Most of the country (about 80%) is a sandy plain. The southern parts
of the country are occupied by the Kopetdag mountains, which are a
buffer between Turkmenistan and Iran. In the east of the country is
the Kugitangtau cave, where the remains of ancient dinosaurs were
found. The Amu Darya River flows through the country.
Population
As of 2022, more than 6.2 million people officially
live in Turkmenistan, and according to unofficial data, no more than
3-3.5 million people remain in the country (due to irrevocable
emigration). The vast majority of the population are Sunni Muslims
(Hanafis) - over 96%. Christians (mainly Orthodox and the Armenian
Church) make up about 3% of the population, other religions (Shia,
Protestant movements, Baha'is and others) - about 2%.
More
than 80% of the population is officially classified as Turkmen, but
this number includes ethnic Uzbeks and representatives of other
Turkic peoples, who are recorded as Turkmen as part of the ongoing
“Turkmenization” in the country. The largest national minorities are
Uzbeks and Russians.
Akhal velayat is the central region of the country, the
administrative center of which is the small town of Annau. On the
territory of this velayat is located the capital of the country -
Ashgabat, which is considered a city with the rights of a velayat. The
northern part of the region is occupied by the Karakum desert, but the
southern territories are occupied by the picturesque mountains of
Kopetdag, which separate Turkmenistan from Iran. On the territory of the
velayat there are ruins and monuments of the ancient Parthian city of
Nisa, which are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The
population of Akhal velayat (excluding Ashgabat) is officially about one
million people, the bulk of which are Turkmens from the Tekin tribe.
The Balkan velayat is the western region of the country, which is
washed by the Caspian Sea, and from the north and south it borders on
Kazakhstan and Iran, respectively. The administrative center is the port
city of Turkmenbashi. It is one of the most developed regions of the
country. Avaza, the country's largest seaside resort, is located on the
territory of the Balkan velayat. The official population is
approximately 800,000, the majority of which are Turkmens, but there are
also Russians, Tatars and Ukrainians in significant numbers.
Dashoguz velayat is the northern region of the country, which borders on
Uzbekistan. The administrative center is the city of Dashoguz (it was
renamed as part of the “Turkmenization” policy, it used to be called
Tashauz). It is one of the most interesting regions of Turkmenistan in
terms of archeology and ancient architecture. Ancient buildings of the
era of the pre-Mongol invasion, built in the ancient Khorezm style, have
been preserved here. The population of the velayat is approximately 1.8
million people. Unlike other regions, in the Dashoguz velayat the
majority are Khorezmian Uzbeks (accordingly, the most common language is
Uzbek), most of whom are recorded as “Turkmen” in their passports due to
the “Turkmenizia” of the Turkic peoples living in the country. Ancient
architectural monuments and objects in this region are almost identical
in style and age with the monuments of Khiva and its environs in
neighboring Uzbekistan, since the Khorezm region of Uzbekistan and the
Dashoguz region of Turkmenistan are part of the ancient historical and
geographical region of Khorezm. The most famous ancient city on the
territory of the Dashoguz velayat is Kunya-Urgench (renamed in the
Turkmen manner to "Kunya-Urgench"), which is included in the UNESCO
World Heritage List.
Lebap velayat is the northeastern region of
the country, which borders on Uzbekistan and Afghanistan. The
administrative center is the city of Turkmenabad (it was renamed as part
of the “Turkmenization” policy, it used to be called Chardzhuy). Almost
the entire territory of the region is occupied by the Karakum Desert,
the full-flowing Amudarya River flows. The region is primarily
interesting for its ancient archaeological sites, which are more than
two and a half thousand years old. There are ruins of ancient Khorezm
and Parthian cities. The region is home to approximately one million
people. Mostly Turkmens live, but also the relative majority of ethnic
Uzbeks (accordingly, one of the two common languages is Uzbek), most of
whom are recorded in the passport as "Turkmen" due to the above reason.
Mary velayat is the eastern region of the country bordering
Afghanistan. The administrative center is the city of Mary (it was
renamed as part of the “Turkmenization” policy, it used to be called
Merv). Almost the entire territory of the region is occupied by the
Karakum desert, but the southern and eastern parts of the region are
occupied by hills. The region is primarily interesting for its ancient
archaeological and architectural monuments, which are more than two and
a half thousand years old. There are ruins of ancient Parthian and
Persian cities. The ruins and monuments of the ancient city of Merv are
included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. More than half a million
people live in the region. Mostly Turkmens live, but Uzbeks also live in
significant numbers.
Ashgabat - the capital of the state
Turkmenbashi (formerly
Krasnovodsk)
Turkmenabad (formerly Chardzhou)
Balkanabat (formerly
Nebit-Dag)
Mary
Other destinations
Desert Karakum
Fire
crater Darvaza
Gulf of Kara-Bogaz-Bol
Baharden underground lake
Merv oasis
Gainar-baba
Mollakara
UNESCO World Heritage
Sites
State Historical and Cultural Park Ancient Merv
Parthian
fortress Old Nisa
Köne-Urgench
Visa
Turkmenistan is one of the most closed countries in the
world, so citizens of absolutely all states, including Russia and other
post-Soviet countries, need a visa. Information about obtaining a visa
in Moscow is on the official website of the embassy. Turkmenistan does
not issue an e-visa. The Turkmen visa is one of the most difficult, it
is very difficult to get it for entry for the purpose of tourism.
There is a theoretical possibility to obtain a visa on arrival at
Ashgabat International Airport, for which you will need a passport, as
well as an original or a photocopy of an invitation from a legal entity
or individual, issued in the prescribed manner and agreed with the state
migration service of Turkmenistan.
Some travelers managed to get
a transit visa (for example, for a trip from Uzbekistan to Iran), which,
apparently, is somewhat easier.
By plane
The main
international airport is in Ashgabat. As of December 2022, only the
local airline Turkmenistan Airlines flies here (Moscow, Kazan, Istanbul,
Frankfurt am Main, Dubai, Beijing). From the Ashgabat airport, you can
also fly to the regional centers of Turkmenistan: to Turkmenbashi,
Dashoguz, Turkmenabad and Mary, as well as to the town of Kerki. All
these airports (except Kerkinsky) also have international status, but in
fact flights abroad are operated only from Turkmenbashi, and even then
only to Istanbul and Minsk (Turkish Airlines and Belavia, respectively).
Tickets for these flights are very difficult to find and buy for a
foreigner for adequate money, everything is quickly sold out by the
residents of Turkmenistan themselves.
By train
Turkmen
railways have access to Uzbekistan, Iran and Afghanistan (so far a
dead-end exit), but passenger transportation outside the country has not
been carried out since the mid-1990s, and everything is limited to
freight traffic, so even in the near future it is a traveler to enter
Turkmenistan by train fail.
By car
Turkmenistan has land
borders with Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Iran. Turkmenistan
is connected with these states by highways, built mainly in the Soviet
era. The border with Afghanistan is actually closed, and there is no
information about border crossings working for ordinary people. There is
only one crossing on the border with Kazakhstan. The main crossings to
Uzbekistan are located near the cities of Dashoguz and Turkmenabad, and
the main international crossing on the border with Iran is located in
the city of Serakhs in the southeast of the country.
Highways
between cities have been extensively repaired in recent years, but their
quality is still far from ideal. They pass through lifeless deserts,
which is why they are sometimes covered with sand.
By bus
International bus service is completely absent due to the isolationist
policy of Turkmenistan.
By ship
Before the pandemic, there was
a regular railway-passenger-cargo crossing from Baku on the Caspian Sea
to the port city of Turkmenbashi and back. The duration of the crossing
is 12-15 hours, depending on the weather. Each of the operating ferries
takes on board 28 railway cars and 200 passengers. Eight of the nine
ships operating at the crossing fly the Azerbaijani flag, and only one
under the Turkmen (but at the same time, the Turkmen ferry is the most
modern). There is an unconfirmed option of crossing this ferry in your
own private car. Ferry tickets can only be purchased in Baku and
Turkmenbashi respectively.
The state and official language of the country is Turkmen. About 80%
of older residents speak Russian, while not all young people speak
Russian, preferring English or Turkish. In the northern and northeastern
parts of the country, the Uzbek language is spoken, and partly Kazakh
and Karakalpak languages. In addition to their native Turkmen and
Russian languages, a sufficient number of the population in the country
speaks or at least understands Turkish and Azerbaijani, so the citizens
of Turkmenistan go to work mainly in Turkey, and there is a large
diaspora of Turkish businessmen and specialists in the country. English
is mainly spoken by young people and workers in the tourism sector.
Also, the Persian language has some popularity as the state language of
Iran, the southern neighbor of Turkmenistan.
Purchases
The
currency of Turkmenistan is the Turkmen manat.
Currency code: TMM
Exchange rate: There are actually two US dollar rates in the country.
Officially, for 1 $ they give about 3.50 manats, and on the black market
one dollar costs from 15 to 20 manats. The population and most tourists
use the black market exclusively. Keep in mind that currency exchange on
the black market is illegal, and you change at your own peril and risk
(you may get caught with a fake bill, you will fall into a raid on
illegal money changers), although with a favorable rate.
For more
information, visit the website of the Central Bank of Turkmenistan.
There are very few ATMs in Turkmenistan that accept international
bank cards (Visa, Mastercard). Please note that you will be asked to
show your passport before withdrawing money from the card.
Turkmen carpets are especially valued.
Food
Turkmen cuisine is
similar to Uzbek and Iranian, although there are also traditional,
primordially Turkmen dishes that are more reminiscent of the food of
nomadic peoples, since until the 1920s, Turkmens, unlike Uzbeks and
Iranians, did not lead a settled way of life.
In Ashgabat and
regional centers you can find modern restaurants, cafes and coffee shops
of the European type. In all settlements there are canteens and eateries
with national cuisine. Pretentious restaurants with Turkmen cuisine are
not uncommon. Fresh vegetables and meat can be bought at the bazaars.
The largest bazaars of the country are located in Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi
and Dashoguz. It is better to go to the market in the morning, when you
can buy fresh fruits and the best meat.
Night life
Against the
backdrop of neighboring Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Azerbaijan, there is
practically no real nightlife in Turkmenistan. Even in neighboring Iran,
you can count on more variety and a higher level of service. In the
capital and large cities there are old-fashioned nightclubs and discos,
there are also expensive restaurants and cafes open until 22-23 hours.
The main clients of these establishments are aggressive and arrogant
children of officials, security officials and local rich people. Going
to a nightclub or staying up late at a restaurant, you run the risk of
being found violating the unspoken curfew that is introduced here from
time to time. The police conduct regular raids and are especially
interested in heterosexual couples who may be asked for a marriage
certificate or other proof of relationship. Also, in Turkmen nightclubs,
you can often become an eyewitness or even a participant in a drunken
fight or brawl, and security will not help you if the instigator of the
fight is the son of an influential person. Many hot Turkmen guys carry
knives or sharpeners with them after the evening, and they can use them
when drunk.
Smoking is strictly prohibited in entertainment and
catering establishments.
Where to stay
Many empty hotels have
been built in the major cities of the country. They often have 4-5 stars
and seem fashionable from the outside, although in reality they do not
stand up to criticism in terms of service and infrastructure. Prices in
such hotels are simply cosmic, even for foreigners.
Hostels and
guesthouses are negligible, they are only in large cities. Soviet-era
hotels have been preserved, where, due to low prices, locals mostly
stay.
Precautionary measures
In a conversation with ordinary citizens,
and even more so with civil servants, be extremely careful in your
statements about the ruling regime, politics and the current
socio-economic situation in the country. Among the people there are many
Turkmen security officials dressed in civilian clothes, who are
primarily interested in foreigners. They also analyze the current mood
among the people. Rights and freedoms in the country are not respected.
Here the position of a lawyer (even a private one) is formal. Turkmen
security officers are especially vigilant in relation to journalists and
bloggers.
It is better not to go out after 22:00, as you may be
accused of violating the curfew, which is often announced without
notice. Turkmen Chekists and security forces in general are obsessed
with spy mania. Even at night there are many police patrols.
Internet access is limited. It is expensive and slow, and in addition,
many popular and seemingly harmless sites are blocked, including social
networks and instant messengers. A VPN won't help much as all known
services are blocked too, and the speed with a VPN is so slow that it
turns an already slow internet into a dead tortoise. In addition, local
security officials are suspicious of those who have installed programs
to bypass blocking.
Turkmenistan is perhaps the hottest country
in the post-Soviet space. There is a sharp, very dry, subtropical-inland
climate, that is, palm trees do not grow, but it is extremely hot in
summer. Winter is cold (there is almost no snow, and if it does, it
melts in a few hours or days) and windy, while in spring and autumn it
is rainy and overcast. During the summer period, from May to September,
it is even hotter in Turkmenistan than in neighboring Uzbekistan, but
slightly cooler than in Iran. In June, July and August, the temperature
in cities can approach +60 degrees, which is why there are very few
people on the streets during the day. Locals try to do all their
business in the morning or in the evening, when it is not so hot.
Hurricanes and dust storms often occur (dry and hot wind "Afghan" is
active here). In March-May and September-November, rainy and cloudy days
and weeks are not uncommon.
From the southeast, Turkmenistan
borders on Afghanistan through the steppe hills. Try not to approach the
border zone both with Afghanistan and with other neighbors, since the
danger comes not from imaginary Afghan militants, but from Turkmen
border guards and security officers, who, having seen a foreigner in
this zone, will definitely detain you and will not leave you alone,
suspecting of any deeds - from "an attempt to illegally cross the
border" to "espionage".
In Turkmenistan, even voluntary
homosexual relations between men are still a criminal offense and can be
punished with imprisonment from 2 to 5 years. If this is relevant to
you, try not to advertise your orientation at all.
Connection
The mobile operator "Altyn Asyr" operates on the territory of the
country. The international dialing code of Turkmenistan is +993. Country
internet domain .tm
Internet
Internet cafes are few in number
but well equipped in major cities. However, you should keep an eye on
opening hours. Internet cafes open early in the morning and close in the
evening, also early. You need to have your passport with you. Access is
provided by SCE "Turkmentelecom".