Location: 16 km (10 mi) North of Tel Aviv Map
Apollonia, also known as Arsuf, Arsur, or Sozusa in different historical periods, is an ancient coastal city located on the Mediterranean shore of modern-day Israel, approximately 15 kilometers north of Tel Aviv and 34 kilometers south of Caesarea. Situated within the Herzliya municipality, the site is now part of Apollonia National Park, a well-preserved archaeological site that offers a window into over a millennium of history. Perched on a kurkar (calcareous sandstone) cliff overlooking the sea, Apollonia’s strategic location along the Via Maris, the ancient coastal trade route, made it a coveted settlement for numerous civilizations, from the Phoenicians to the Crusaders.
Origins and Phoenician Foundation (6th–5th Century BCE)
Apollonia-Arsuf was founded by the Phoenicians during the Persian
period, likely in the late 6th or early 5th century BCE, under the
hegemony of Sidon. The site, known initially as Arshaf or Arsuf, was
named after Resheph, a Canaanite-Phoenician deity associated with
fertility, war, and the underworld. The Phoenicians, renowned seafarers
and traders, established the settlement to exploit the natural anchorage
and produce purple dye from murex mollusks, a valuable commodity
exported to the Aegean. An inscription from the tomb of Eshmun‘azor II,
King of Sidon (displayed in the Louvre), indicates that the Persian
Achaemenid king granted Sidon control over the fertile Sharon Plain,
including Apollonia, likely as a reward for naval support during Persian
campaigns in Egypt. Archaeological evidence confirms no significant
settlement existed at the site prior to this period, though Chalcolithic
and Iron Age II remains have been found.
Hellenistic Period
(4th–2nd Century BCE)
During the Hellenistic period, following
Alexander the Great’s conquests, the city was renamed Apollonia,
reflecting the Greek identification of Resheph with Apollo, the god
associated with plague, prophecy, and divine distance. This
interpretatio graeca, first suggested by Clermont-Ganneau in 1876,
underscores the cultural syncretism of the time. Under Seleucid rule,
Apollonia flourished as a commercial and cultural hub, benefiting from
its coastal location. The Periplus of Pseudo-Scylax (mid-4th century
BCE) notes that Apollonia, along with Dor and Joppa, was under Sidonian
suzerainty, highlighting its administrative importance. By this time,
Apollonia had likely become the main city and harbor in the southern
Sharon Plain, especially after the decline of nearby Tel Michal.
Roman Period (1st Century BCE–4th Century CE)
Under Roman rule,
Apollonia grew in size and significance, though it remained a
medium-sized coastal town compared to regional centers like Jaffa and
Caesarea. The Roman proconsul Gabinius found the city in ruins in 57 BCE
and ordered its rebuilding. A notable feature from this period is a
grand seaside villa, excavated in the 1980s and 1998, dated to the 1st
century CE and destroyed by an earthquake in 118 CE. The villa, with its
elegant architecture, reflects the prosperity of the local elite.
Apollonia is mentioned by ancient authors such as Pliny the Elder
(Historia Naturalis, V, 14), Ptolemy (V, xv, 2), and Josephus
(Antiquities of the Jews, XIII, xv, 4), and is depicted in the Tabula
Peutingeriana as 22 miles from Caesarea along the Via Maris. Unlike
major Roman cities, Apollonia did not mint coins, indicating it was not
a provincial administrative center.
Byzantine Period (4th–7th
Century CE)
In the Byzantine period, Apollonia, renamed Sozusa
(Greek: Σώζουσα, meaning “city of the Saviour”), reached its peak,
covering approximately 70 acres (280 dunams). The name change,
influenced by Christianity’s rise as the state religion, linked the
byname of Apollo (Soter, “savior”) with Christ. Sozusa in Palaestina was
distinguished from other cities like Sozusa in Libya. The city was
unwalled and featured a prosperous economy, with a significant glass
industry producing raw glass from silica-rich beach sand. Excavations
have uncovered 12 glass furnaces, one of which is visible at the park’s
entrance, used for single firings at 1,100°C. Other industrial
installations included wine and oil presses, and a polychrome
mosaic-floored church with column bases was discovered in Area K. The
city was home to Christian and Samaritan communities, with a Samaritan
synagogue identified at the site. Sozusa served as a suffragan episcopal
see under Caesarea, the provincial capital of Palaestina Prima.
Early Islamic Period (7th–11th Century CE)
Apollonia fell to Muslim
forces in 640 CE, during the early Islamic conquests, and reverted to
its Semitic name, Arsuf (Arabic: أرْسُوف). The Umayyad Caliph ‘Abd
al-Malik (685–705) fortified the city with a wall encompassing 22 acres
(77 dunams) to protect against Byzantine naval attacks. The Samaritan
community was destroyed, and the city’s size decreased. By the late
Early Islamic period, Arsuf became a ribbat (fort), housing Muslim
philosophers. The fortified walls, later reinforced by Crusaders,
included buttresses, and remains from this period are visible today.
Crusader Period (12th–13th Century CE)
Arsuf, known as Arsur to
the Crusaders, was conquered by Baldwin I in 1101 with Genoan naval
support, becoming a key stronghold in the Kingdom of Jerusalem. The city
was refortified, and a substantial dry moat was dug around the landward
sides, with cliffs providing natural defense on the seaward side. In
1187, after the Crusader defeat at the Horns of Hattin, Arsuf fell to
Saladin, who dismantled its walls. Richard the Lionheart’s victory at
the Battle of Arsuf (September 7, 1191), fought nearby, restored
Crusader control. In 1241, Jean d’Ibelin built a formidable castle on a
northern outcropping, featuring three layers of defense: a gated outer
wall with guard towers, a tall inner wall, and a central keep. A small
port at sea level facilitated trade and military operations. In 1261,
the city and castle were transferred to the Knights Hospitaller. The
Mamluk Sultan Baibars besieged Arsuf in 1265, capturing it after 40 days
and razing both the city and fortress to prevent Crusader reoccupation.
A cache of over 100 Fatimid gold dinars, buried by the Hospitallers
during the siege, was discovered in a Roman fortress, valued at up to
$500,000 today.
Post-Occupational History (13th Century–Present)
After its destruction in 1265, Arsuf was never resettled, though
intermittent human activity persisted. Ottoman records note a handful of
inhabitants, and the site was used for scavenging building materials and
as a British troop encampment during World War I. The nearby Sidna Ali
Mosque, built in 1481 and named after a Muslim soldier who fell in 1250,
remains a notable landmark. Excavations began in the 1950s, with
systematic large-scale digs from 1976 under Israel Roll, followed by
Oren Tal from 2007. The site was opened as Apollonia National Park in
2002 and recognized by the World Monuments Fund in 2004 as one of the
100 most endangered monuments due to cliff erosion.
Apollonia National Park preserves a rich array of archaeological
remains, accessible via a 2-kilometer paved trail with sea overlooks.
Key features include:
Crusader Fortress (1241–1265): The
highlight of the site, built by Jean d’Ibelin, features a deep moat,
double fortification walls, and a 9-meter-high keep. Its European
architectural style, influenced by southern English fortresses, includes
a small sea anchorage. Evidence of the Mamluk siege, including a
ballista stone with an Arabic inscription from 1265, is preserved.
Roman Villa (1st Century CE): Located at the park’s southern end, this
elegant villa with sea views was destroyed in the 118 CE earthquake. Its
remains showcase Roman architectural sophistication.
City Moat: The
Crusader-era moat, 4.5 meters deep, surrounds the landward sides, with
the southern section excavated in 1998. The eastern gate, partially
within an Israel Military Industries area, was uncovered in 1996.
Glass Furnace (Byzantine Period): A 6th-century furnace at the entrance
demonstrates the city’s glass industry, producing raw glass sheets from
beach sand.
Samaritan Synagogue: Located near the Roman villa, this
structure attests to the Samaritan community’s presence in the Byzantine
period.
Byzantine Church (Area K): A polychrome mosaic floor and
column bases indicate a significant Christian presence.
Industrial
Installations: Wine and oil presses, plastered pools, and glass furnaces
highlight the Byzantine economy.
Sidna Ali Mosque (1481): A
well-preserved Ottoman-era mosque near the park, linked to a Muslim
soldier’s martyrdom.
Apollonia-Arsuf encapsulates the cultural diversity and strategic
importance of the Levant. Its history reflects the interplay of
Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic, and Crusader influences,
with each period leaving distinct architectural and cultural marks. The
site’s name changes—Arsuf, Apollonia, Sozusa, Arsur—mirror shifts in
religious and political power, from pagan Phoenician worship to
Hellenistic syncretism, Christian dominance, and Islamic restoration.
The association with Resheph/Apollo highlights ancient religious
syncretism, while the Crusader fortress and Battle of Arsuf underscore
the site’s role in medieval conflicts. The discovery of Fatimid coins
buried by the Hospitallers illustrates the economic wealth and
desperation of the Crusader period.
The site’s post-occupational
history, including its use during World War I and modern preservation
efforts, underscores its enduring relevance. Apollonia’s inclusion in
UNESCO’s tentative list of Crusader castles (2006) and the World
Monuments Fund’s endangered sites (2004) highlights its global
archaeological value. The ongoing restoration of the seaside wall,
supported by the Israel Nature & Heritage Foundation, aims to protect
the cliff from erosion and ensure public access for future generations.
Apollonia National Park is a compact, wheelchair-accessible site,
ideal for a 1–2-hour visit. The trail offers stunning Mediterranean
views, with Caesarea to the north and Tel Aviv-Jaffa to the south. The
park is open Sunday–Thursday and Saturday from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (4:00
PM in winter), with free parking and reservations recommended via the
Israel Nature and Parks Authority. Spring and fall are the best seasons
to visit, as summer can be hot due to the open sun exposure. The park
hosts events like open-air concerts and children’s activities during
holidays, though these may disrupt the historical ambiance for purists.
Visitors can explore the Crusader fortress’s moat, walls, and keep,
the Roman villa’s foundations, and the glass furnace, with informative
signage enhancing the experience. The coastal path provides tranquil
walkways and dramatic cliffside views. The park’s proximity to Tel Aviv
(15–20 minutes by car, or an hour by bus routes 601 or 606) makes it an
accessible day trip. The nearby Reichman University and Sidna Ali Mosque
add modern and historical context to the area.
The primary threat to Apollonia is geological instability from cliff erosion and pounding surf, endangering the Crusader castle. The Israel Nature & Heritage Foundation’s Tech Advisory Board is raising funds to reinforce the seaside wall and build a protective breakwater. Continued excavations, led by Tel Aviv University and international partners, aim to uncover more of the site’s history, particularly from the Byzantine and Early Islamic periods. The balance between tourism, preservation, and archaeological research remains a priority.