Hippos-Sussita, known in Greek as Hippos ("horse") and in Aramaic/Hebrew as Sussita ("mare"), is an ancient Greco-Roman city located in northern Israel, overlooking the eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee. Situated on a flat-topped, diamond-shaped hill rising 350 meters above the lake, at 144 meters above sea level, it is part of the Sussita National Park in the Golan Heights, approximately 2 kilometers east of Kibbutz Ein Gev. As one of the ten cities of the Decapolis, a league of Hellenistic cities in the Roman East, Hippos-Sussita was a significant cultural, economic, and strategic center from the 3rd century BCE to the 8th century CE. Its dramatic location, extensive archaeological remains, and panoramic views of the Galilee and Golan make it a compelling destination.
Hippos-Sussita’s strategic position on a basalt and limestone hill,
isolated by steep slopes and valleys, made it a natural fortress with
commanding views over the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the
Jordan Valley. Its location in the Golan Heights, 3 kilometers west of
the modern Israeli-Syrian border, underscores its historical and modern
geopolitical significance.
Topography:
The hill, part of the
Sussita Formation, is a horst (uplifted block) created by tectonic
activity along the Dead Sea Transform fault. It measures 600 meters long
(east-west) and 250 meters wide (north-south), covering about 8 hectares
(20 acres). Steep cliffs on three sides and a saddle ridge to the east
provided natural defenses.
A 1.5-kilometer-long ridge, known as the
Sussita Saddle, connects the hill to the Golan Heights, serving as the
only land access route. This was fortified with walls and a gate to
control entry.
The site overlooks the Sea of Galilee (Lake Kinneret),
offering vistas of Tiberias, Mount Tabor, and the Galilee hills. The Ein
Gev and Kursi valleys flank the hill, with the Sussita Stream (Nahal
Sussita) running below.
Climate and Environment:
The Golan
Heights has a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers (25–35°C) and
cool, rainy winters (5–15°C, 400–600 mm annual rainfall). The hill’s
elevation provides breezy conditions, but summer visits require sun
protection.
The surrounding landscape features basalt hills, sparse
oak and pistachio woodlands, and seasonal wildflowers (e.g., anemones in
spring). Wildlife includes rock hyrax, birds of prey, and migratory
species using the Jordan Valley corridor.
The Sea of Galilee’s
proximity supported fishing and trade, while fertile valleys below the
hill enabled agriculture, including olives, grapes, and grains.
Geopolitical Context:
The Golan Heights, including Hippos-Sussita,
has been under Israeli control since the 1967 Six-Day War, though it is
internationally recognized as Syrian territory. The site’s proximity to
the Syrian border and its historical role as a frontier city highlight
its strategic importance.
Hippos-Sussita’s history spans from the Hellenistic period (3rd
century BCE) to the Umayyad period (8th century CE), reflecting its
role as a Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, and early Islamic city. As
a Decapolis city, it enjoyed autonomy under Roman rule, blending
Greek, Roman, and local Semitic cultures.
Hellenistic
Foundation (3rd Century BCE):
Hippos was likely founded around
200 BCE by the Seleucid Empire, possibly under Antiochus III, as a
military colony (katoikia) to control the Golan and counter
Ptolemaic Egypt. Its name, Hippos or Sussita ("horse"), may reflect
a Seleucid cavalry presence or the hill’s shape.
The city was
built on a virgin site, not a pre-existing settlement, with a
Hellenistic grid plan (hippodamian) featuring a central cardo
(north-south street) and decumanus (east-west street). Early
fortifications included a basalt wall and towers.
As a Decapolis
city, Hippos joined a league of Hellenistic cities (including
Scythopolis/Beit She’an and Gadara) after Pompey’s conquest in 63
BCE, gaining semi-autonomy under Roman oversight.
Roman
Period (63 BCE–324 CE):
Hippos flourished under Roman rule,
serving as a regional hub for trade, agriculture, and
administration. Its economy relied on the Sea of Galilee’s fishing
industry, olive oil production, and Golan grain fields.
The city
was granted a bronze coin mint under Emperor Commodus (180–192 CE),
with coins depicting a horse, Tyche (goddess of fortune), and Zeus,
reflecting its Hellenistic-Roman identity.
Key events include a
brief Jewish revolt in 66 CE during the First Jewish-Roman War, when
Hippos and Sepphoris resisted Jewish rebels, aligning with Rome
(Josephus, Jewish War 2.18). The city’s pagan population and
fortified position protected it from major damage.
Roman
infrastructure included a theater, aqueduct, baths, and temples,
with a small military garrison stationed at the city’s eastern gate.
Byzantine Period (324–636 CE):
Christianity spread rapidly in
Hippos, transforming it into a bishopric by the 4th century CE. At
least eight churches were built, including the Northwest Church
(with a baptistery) and the Cathedral, reflecting the city’s
Christianization.
The city remained prosperous, with expanded
water systems (cisterns and pipelines) and a thriving olive oil
industry. Its population, estimated at 10,000–15,000, included
Greeks, Romans, and local Aramaic-speaking Christians.
A
Samaritan revolt in 529 CE and a 614 CE Persian invasion caused
minor disruptions, but Hippos recovered under Byzantine rule.
Umayyad and Decline (636–749 CE):
After the Muslim conquest
in 636 CE, Hippos came under Umayyad rule, renamed Sussita in
Arabic. The city retained its Christian majority, with churches
maintained but no new construction.
The catastrophic earthquake
of January 18, 749 CE, centered in the Jordan Valley, destroyed
Hippos-Sussita, collapsing buildings and killing many residents.
Survivors abandoned the site, and it was never resettled.
Post-749, the hill was used sporadically by shepherds and as a
temporary refuge during conflicts, but no permanent settlement
emerged.
Modern Period:
In the 19th century, European
explorers like Edward Robinson (1838) and Gottlieb Schumacher (1885)
identified Sussita as the biblical Hippos, noting its ruins. Ottoman
and British Mandate periods saw minimal activity, with local Bedouin
using the site for grazing.
During the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, the
hill was a Syrian military outpost. After Israel’s 1967 capture of
the Golan, Sussita was incorporated into Israel, with Kibbutz Ein
Gev managing the land below.
Excavations began in 1951, and the
site was declared a national park in 2004, with ongoing
archaeological work uncovering its rich past.
Hippos-Sussita is one of the best-preserved Decapolis cities, with
extensive remains uncovered since systematic excavations began in 2000
under the University of Haifa, led by Arthur Segal and Michael
Eisenberg. Its isolation preserved it from modern development, offering
a pristine view of Greco-Roman urban life.
Key Archaeological
Features:
City Layout:
The city follows a Hellenistic grid plan,
with a 550-meter-long cardo maximus (main street) paved with basalt
slabs and lined with 60 columns. The decumanus maximus, 240 meters long,
intersects it, creating a central forum.
The forum, a 60 x 40-meter
plaza, was the civic heart, surrounded by a basilica, temples, and
shops. A monumental arch, possibly dedicated to a Roman emperor, marked
its entrance.
Fortifications:
A 1.6-kilometer-long city wall,
built of basalt and limestone, encircled the hill, with a main gate at
the eastern saddle. Rectangular towers and a bastion protected the gate,
where Roman soldiers were stationed.
The saddle ridge was fortified
with a ditch and secondary wall, controlling access from the Golan.
Water System:
Hippos lacked a natural spring, relying on
rainwater collected in 60–70 underground cisterns, each lined with
hydraulic plaster. A 25-kilometer aqueduct from the Golan Heights
supplied additional water, with pipelines feeding public fountains and
baths.
The Northwest Church cistern, with a cross-shaped pool,
doubled as a baptistery, blending practical and religious functions.
Public Buildings:
Theater: A small, semi-circular theater
(seating ~2,000) on the southern slope overlooks the Sea of Galilee.
Built in the 2nd century CE, it features basalt seating and a limestone
orchestra.
Odeon: A 350-seat indoor theater near the forum, used for
music and council meetings, is richly decorated with frescoes and
mosaics.
Baths: Two bath complexes (northern and southern) include
caldarium (hot room), tepidarium (warm room), and frigidarium (cold
room), with hypocaust heating systems.
Forum and Basilica: The
basilica, a 50 x 30-meter hall with marble columns, served judicial and
commercial functions. Nearby temples were dedicated to Zeus, Tyche, and
possibly Dionysus.
Churches:
Eight Byzantine churches, built
between the 4th and 6th centuries, include the Northwest Church (with a
baptistery and mosaics), the Cathedral (near the forum, with a marble
chancel), and the Northeast Church (with a winepress, indicating
monastic use).
Mosaics depict geometric patterns, crosses, and
Christian symbols, though human figures are absent due to iconoclastic
tendencies.
Residential and Industrial Areas:
Elite homes with
peristyle courtyards and mosaics lined the cardo. A necropolis outside
the eastern gate contains rock-cut tombs.
Olive presses and
winepresses, especially near the Northeast Church, highlight the city’s
agricultural economy.
Roman Road:
A paved road from the
eastern gate to the Golan, with milestones, connected Hippos to other
Decapolis cities. It was used for trade and military movements.
Key Finds:
Artifacts include Roman coins (e.g., with Tyche and horse
imagery), pottery (Nabataean and Eastern Terra Sigillata), glassware,
and bronze statues (e.g., a Hermes bust).
A 2nd-century CE marble
statue of Hercules, found in the basilica, reflects pagan worship.
Christian artifacts include crosses, lamps, and reliquaries.
Inscriptions in Greek, such as dedications to emperors and local
officials, confirm Hippos’s status as a polis. A 6th-century CE church
inscription mentions a Bishop Peter.
Excavations:
Early
surveys (1885–1955) by Schumacher, Albright, and Israeli teams
identified the site. Systematic digs began in 2000, with Polish,
American, and German teams joining Haifa University.
The 749 CE
earthquake preserved the site by burying it under rubble, preventing
looting. Excavations have uncovered 30% of the city, with ongoing work
focusing on the theater and churches.
Challenges include the hill’s
inaccessibility and the risk of further earthquake damage. Conservation
efforts stabilize structures and protect mosaics.
Hippos-Sussita reflects a blend of Hellenistic, Roman, Jewish,
Christian, and early Islamic cultures, shaped by its Decapolis status
and frontier location.
Hellenistic and Roman Culture:
As a
Greek-speaking polis, Hippos adopted Hellenistic urban planning, theater
culture, and pagan worship (Zeus, Tyche, Dionysus). Its coins and
statues reflect Greco-Roman aesthetics.
The city’s diverse population
included Greeks, Romans, and local Aramaic-speaking Nabataeans and Jews,
fostering a cosmopolitan identity.
Jewish Context:
Hippos had
a small Jewish community, likely traders, but its pagan and later
Christian dominance led to tensions during the 66 CE revolt. The Talmud
references Sussita as a gentile city (Mo’ed Katan 25b).
Its proximity
to Tiberias, a Jewish center, highlights its role as a cultural boundary
between Jewish Galilee and the pagan Golan.
Christian
Significance:
By the 4th century CE, Hippos was a Christian
stronghold, with churches replacing temples. Its bishop attended the
Council of Chalcedon (451 CE), affirming its ecclesiastical importance.
The site attracts Christian pilgrims due to its proximity to Kursi (5 km
north), where Jesus performed the Miracle of the Swine (Mark 5:1–20),
traditionally linked to the Golan’s “Gadarenes” or “Gerasenes.”
Mosaics and baptisteries reflect Byzantine Christian art and liturgy,
though iconoclasm (8th century) removed figurative images.
Islamic Period:
Under Umayyad rule, Hippos remained Christian but
integrated into the Muslim administrative system. Its abandonment after
749 CE limited Islamic cultural impact.
Modern Cultural Role:
As a national park, Hippos-Sussita symbolizes Israel’s Hellenistic-Roman
heritage, complementing sites like Beit She’an. Its UNESCO nomination
(pending) underscores its global value.
The site’s multicultural
history resonates with Jewish, Christian, and secular visitors, while
its Golan location ties it to Druze and Arab communities nearby.
Sussita National Park, managed by the Israel Nature and Parks
Authority, offers a rich experience for history buffs, hikers, and
nature lovers, though its remote location and rugged terrain require
planning.
Key Attractions:
City Ruins: The cardo, forum,
basilica, theater, odeon, and churches are well-marked, with signs
explaining their history. The Northwest Church’s baptistery and
Cathedral’s chancel are highlights.
Panoramic Views: The hilltop
offers 360-degree vistas of the Sea of Galilee, Tiberias, Mount Hermon,
and the Golan. Sunrise and sunset visits are spectacular.
Eastern
Gate and Roman Road: The fortified gate and milestones provide a
tangible link to Roman infrastructure.
Olive Presses and Cisterns:
Industrial areas showcase ancient technology, while cisterns reveal
water management ingenuity.
Hiking Trails: A 1–2-hour loop trail
covers the main sites, with steep paths to the theater and southern
wall. A longer trail along the Sussita Saddle connects to the Golan.
Visitor Logistics:
Access:
By Car: From Tiberias (20 minutes),
take Route 92 east along the Sea of Galilee to Ein Gev, then follow
signs to Sussita National Park (2 km uphill). From Tel Aviv (2 hours),
use Highway 6 and Route 77. Enter “Sussita National Park” into Waze or
Google Maps. Parking is available at the base of the hill.
Public
Transport: Buses from Tiberias to Ein Gev (Egged line 25) stop 2 km from
the park. Taxis or a 30-minute walk are needed to reach the entrance.
Check Moovit for schedules.
On Foot: A strenuous 45-minute hike from
Ein Gev ascends the hill via the saddle ridge, recommended for fit
visitors.
Hours:
Summer (April–September): Sunday–Thursday and
Saturday, 8 AM–5 PM; Friday, 8 AM–4 PM.
Winter (October–March):
Sunday–Thursday and Saturday, 8 AM–4 PM; Friday, 8 AM–3 PM.
Last
entry 1 hour before closing. Reservations are advised via the Israel
Nature and Parks Authority website.
Fees: Adults: 22 NIS; children: 9
NIS; students: 19 NIS. A Golan sites combo ticket (including Banias and
Nimrod Fortress) is available. National Parks pass holders enter free.
Facilities: A ticket booth and basic restrooms are at the entrance.
There is no café or picnic area, so bring water, snacks, and sun
protection. The site is not wheelchair-accessible due to steep, uneven
paths. Sturdy shoes, hats, and sunscreen are essential.
Guided Tours:
Ranger-led tours (Hebrew/English) are offered periodically (check
schedules). Private guides or audio guides (available at the ticket
booth) enhance exploration. Tours often combine Sussita with Kursi, Beit
She’an, or Tiberias.
Safety: The hill’s cliffs require caution,
especially for children. Summer heat can be intense, and winter rain
makes paths slippery. Stay on marked trails to avoid unstable ruins.
Nearby Attractions:
Kursi National Park (5 km north): Byzantine
monastery linked to the Miracle of the Swine.
Ein Gev (2 km west):
Kibbutz with a beach, fish restaurants, and boat tours on the Sea of
Galilee.
Tiberias (15 km west): Historical sites (e.g., Tomb of
Maimonides) and hot springs.
Beit She’an National Park (40 km south):
Roman Decapolis city with a theater and mosaics.
Gamla Nature Reserve
(20 km east): Ancient Jewish city and hiking trails.
Hippos-Sussita is a well-preserved archaeological site and an active
excavation area, but it faces several challenges:
Preservation:
The 749 CE earthquake left ruins vulnerable to further seismic activity
and weathering. Conservation efforts focus on stabilizing walls,
covering mosaics, and preventing looting. Funding from universities and
international partners supports these efforts.
Accessibility: The
hill’s steep access and lack of public transport limit visitors, making
it less crowded than Beit She’an but harder to reach. Infrastructure
improvements (e.g., a shuttle from Ein Gev) are under consideration.
Geopolitical Context: The Golan Heights’ disputed status adds
complexity, though the site is safe for tourists. Its proximity to Syria
requires security monitoring, but no incidents have been reported.
Excavation Progress: Only 30% of the city has been excavated, with vast
areas (e.g., residential quarters) still buried. Limited resources slow
progress, but finds continue to enrich understanding of the Decapolis.
Tourism Development: The site’s remote beauty is a draw, but its lack of
facilities (e.g., no café or shade) and rugged terrain deter some
visitors. The national park aims to balance preservation with
accessibility.