Location: Al Taj, Amman
The Abu Darwish Mosque, perched atop Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh—one of Amman’s seven historic hills—is a striking architectural and cultural landmark in Jordan’s capital. Built in 1961, it is renowned for its distinctive black-and-white checkered facade, a design inspired by traditional Levantine and Damascene architecture. Commissioned by King Hussein and funded by Hasan Mustafa Sharkas, a Circassian immigrant also known as Abu Darwish, the mosque stands as a testament to both Jordan’s multicultural heritage and its modern history.
The Abu Darwish Mosque was constructed in 1961, making it a
relatively recent addition compared to Jordan’s older religious sites,
such as the Grand Husseini Mosque. Its creation was driven by Hasan
Mustafa Sharkas, a wealthy Circassian immigrant who fled Russian
invasions in the Caucasus during the 19th century. The Circassian
community, which settled in Amman starting in 1878, played a significant
role in shaping the city’s early development. Sharkas, also known as Abu
Darwish, owned the land on Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh and personally financed
the mosque’s construction, reportedly designing it himself.
Before the mosque was built, the Ashrafiyeh area was largely
uninhabited, with only a hospital nearby. Recognizing the lack of
facilities for women visiting sick relatives, Sharkas constructed two
lounging rooms on the site, reflecting his community-oriented vision.
The mosque’s construction transformed the hill into a focal point,
visible from across Amman due to its elevated position and striking
design. While some sources credit King Hussein and Mustafa Jakazi with
commissioning the project, Sharkas’s role as the primary financier and
designer is consistently highlighted.
The mosque’s establishment
also reflects the Circassian community’s integration into Jordanian
society. By 1961, Amman was transitioning from a small settlement to a
modern capital, and the mosque symbolized both cultural continuity for
the Circassians and Jordan’s embrace of diverse identities under
Hashemite rule. Its completion marked a milestone in the city’s
architectural and religious landscape, complementing older mosques while
introducing a bold, modern aesthetic.
The Abu Darwish Mosque is instantly recognizable for its unique
black-and-white checkered exterior, a design that draws heavily on
Levantine and Syrian architectural traditions, particularly Damascene
styles. The alternating stonework, using black basalt and white
limestone sourced from Syria, creates a striking visual effect, often
compared to a chessboard or mosaic. This aesthetic sets it apart from
other mosques in Jordan, earning praise for its originality and
simplicity. Visitors frequently describe its colors as “unlike anything
seen before,” highlighting its impact as a visual landmark.
Key
architectural features include:
Facade and Structure: The mosque’s
exterior features a checkered pattern across its walls, minaret, and six
domes, creating a cohesive and bold appearance. The 36-meter-tall
minaret is a prominent feature, visible from multiple points in Amman,
especially during sunrise or sunset when the stones catch the light.
Interior: The interior is described as restrained yet elegant, with a
focus on simplicity. Precious Persian carpets cover the prayer halls,
adding warmth and cultural value. The main prayer hall features a mihrab
(niche indicating the direction of Mecca) and a small lectern, while a
circular washing area for ritual ablutions is located nearby. A smaller
room, possibly for children or instructional prayers, is noted for its
intimate scale.
Domes and Minaret: The mosque has six domes, with the
main dome also featuring the checkered pattern. The minaret, standing at
36 meters, is a key element of the mosque’s silhouette, blending
seamlessly with the overall design.
Calligraphy and Ornamentation:
The mosque’s inscriptions and paintings were crafted by a skilled local
calligrapher, adding artistic depth to its interiors. While less ornate
than older mosques like the King Abdullah I Mosque, the calligraphy
reflects traditional Islamic artistry.
Spanning approximately 2,500
square meters, the mosque can accommodate over 7,000 worshippers, with
two prayer halls: a larger one for 2,000 and a smaller one for 500. Its
design, attributed to Sharkas, was executed by Palestinian workers from
a West Bank village near Jerusalem, highlighting regional collaboration.
The mosque’s elevated plaza offers panoramic views of East Amman, the
Citadel, and the city center, enhancing its appeal as a scenic
destination.
The Abu Darwish Mosque serves both religious and community
functions, with facilities that support its role as a local and
tourist landmark:
Prayer Halls: The two halls cater to
different group sizes, with the larger hall used for major
gatherings like Friday prayers, which are significant spiritual
events.
Library and School: A small library and a school for
teaching the Holy Quran are located within the premises, fostering
education and community engagement.
Museum: A small museum is
mentioned in some sources, though access is not guaranteed,
particularly for non-Muslims. Its contents are not well-documented,
suggesting it may house minor artifacts or historical items related
to the mosque or Circassian heritage.
Plaza and Seating Areas:
The outdoor plaza features seating areas, ideal for relaxing and
enjoying views of Amman. The plaza’s design integrates with the
mosque’s aesthetic, offering a space for reflection and photography.
Administrative Building: Located across the street, this building
supports mosque operations and may serve as a point of contact for
visitors seeking entry.
The mosque’s facilities are modest
compared to larger institutions like the King Abdullah I Mosque,
reflecting its community-focused role rather than a state-driven
one. However, its library and school underscore its commitment to
education, a nod to Sharkas’s vision of supporting the Ashrafiyeh
community.
The Abu Darwish Mosque holds multifaceted significance in Amman’s
cultural and religious landscape:
Circassian Heritage: As a
Circassian-funded project, the mosque symbolizes the community’s
enduring presence in Jordan. The Circassians, who arrived as refugees in
the 19th century, established Amman as a hub, and the mosque marks their
cultural identity and integration.
Architectural Innovation: Its
black-and-white checkered design is a bold departure from traditional
Jordanian mosque architecture, earning it recognition as one of Amman’s
architectural highlights. Posts on X describe it as “a truly unique
piece of architecture in the Ammani landscape,” reflecting local pride.
Religious Role: With a capacity for 7,000 worshippers, the mosque is a
vital spiritual center, particularly for Friday prayers. Its school and
library further its role in religious education.
Tourist Attraction:
Despite restrictions on non-Muslim entry, the mosque draws visitors for
its exterior beauty and scenic views. Its location on Jabal
Al-Ashrafiyeh, overlooking the Citadel and downtown Amman, makes it a
popular stop for photographers and those exploring the city’s seven
hills.
Urban Transformation: The mosque’s construction catalyzed
development in the Ashrafiyeh area, turning a sparsely populated hill
into a recognized neighborhood. Its visibility from other hills
reinforces Amman’s identity as a city of layered history and modern
growth.
However, the mosque’s cultural narrative is tied to its
Circassian and Hashemite origins, which may overshadow broader Jordanian
or Palestinian contributions to its construction. Its prominence as a
tourist site is also tempered by access restrictions, raising questions
about inclusivity in Jordan’s cultural heritage.
Location: Abu Darwish Street, Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh, Amman, Jordan. The
mosque sits atop one of Amman’s highest points, approximately 2 miles
from downtown.
Access: The mosque is best reached by taxi due to the
steep climb up Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. Visitors are advised to walk
downhill afterward toward downtown Amman for a scenic stroll, possibly
stopping at local bakeries like Zahrat Armenia for Armenian sfeeha.
Public transport options are limited, but the mosque is near bus routes
serving East Amman.
Opening Hours: The mosque is primarily open for
prayers, with no fixed public hours for tourists. Non-Muslims are
generally not allowed inside, especially during prayer times, though
some visitors report gaining entry through guides or special permission
outside prayer hours.
Admission: Free, though donations may be
appreciated. Visitors must dress conservatively (long sleeves, pants,
and headscarves for women). Shoes must be removed before entering, and
headscarves are required for women.
Best Time to Visit: Spring
(March–May) or fall (September–November) for pleasant weather. Sunrise
or sunset visits enhance the mosque’s visual appeal and offer stunning
city views.
Contact: No direct phone number is widely listed, but
inquiries can be made through local tour operators or the mosque’s
administrative building.
Nearby Attractions: The Citadel (1.5 miles),
Roman Theatre (2 miles), and Grand Husseini Mosque (1.5 miles) are
easily accessible, making the mosque part of a broader historical tour.
The Zahrat Armenia bakery, recommended by visitors, is a short walk
downhill.
Visitors typically spend 20–40 minutes at the site,
primarily exploring the exterior and plaza. Those granted interior
access may require additional time for guided tours, which can include
interactions with local sheikhs, as one group experienced in 2015.
While the Abu Darwish Mosque is celebrated for its beauty and
cultural significance, several aspects invite critical examination:
Access Restrictions: The mosque’s policy of limiting non-Muslim
entry, while rooted in religious tradition, contrasts with more open
sites like the King Abdullah I Mosque, which welcomes tourists for a
fee. This exclusivity may limit its role as a shared cultural asset, as
noted by disappointed visitors on Tripadvisor who could only view the
exterior.
Narrative Focus: The mosque’s story emphasizes Circassian
and Hashemite contributions, potentially sidelining the Palestinian
workers who built it or the broader Jordanian context. This selective
framing aligns with state-supported narratives, raising questions about
whose heritage is prioritized.
Urban Impact: While the mosque spurred
development in Ashrafiyeh, the area remains less tourist-friendly than
downtown Amman, with some visitors reporting unease due to local youths
following them. This suggests a gap between the mosque’s prominence and
the neighborhood’s integration into Amman’s tourism ecosystem.
Architectural Simplicity vs. Expectation: The interior’s “sober” design,
while elegant, has been described as underwhelming by some who expected
more ornate features based on the striking exterior. This contrast may
reflect a deliberate choice to prioritize simplicity but can disappoint
visitors accustomed to grander mosque interiors.
Cultural
Authenticity: The mosque’s Syrian-inspired design, while authentic to
Levantine traditions, reflects the Circassian founder’s nostalgia for a
broader regional aesthetic rather than a distinctly Jordanian one. This
raises questions about how “local” the mosque’s identity is, especially
in a city with diverse architectural influences.
These points
highlight the mosque’s complex role as both a community anchor and a
selective tourist site, warranting a nuanced understanding of its place
in Amman’s cultural fabric.