The Church of Saint John the Baptist, also known as the Shrine of the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, is a Roman Catholic church located in Madaba, Jordan. Situated on a hilltop in the Al-Tal area, considered the historic center of the city, the church is a significant religious and archaeological site, recognized by the Vatican in 1967 as a shrine commemorating the beheading of John the Baptist, traditionally associated with nearby Machaerus Palace. Built in 1913 on the site of an ancient acropolis, the church blends modern architecture with ancient remains, offering a unique experience for pilgrims, historians, and tourists.
Madaba, known in the Old Testament as Medeba, is an ancient city 30
kilometers southwest of Amman, with a history stretching back to the
Middle Bronze Age (ca. 2000 BCE). Mentioned in the Bible (Numbers 21:30,
Joshua 13:9) and the Mesha Stele, it was a Moabite border city that
passed through Israelite, Nabataean, Greek, Roman, and Byzantine
control. By the Byzantine period (4th–7th centuries CE), Madaba was a
thriving Christian center, famous for its mosaics, including the
6th-century Madaba Map in the nearby Greek Orthodox Basilica of Saint
George. A devastating earthquake in 746 CE reduced much of the city to
ruins, and it remained largely abandoned for over a millennium.
In the late 19th century, Christian Arab tribes from Karak resettled
Madaba, reviving its Christian heritage. These settlers, facing tensions
with Muslims in Karak, were permitted to build churches only on sites of
previous Christian worship, leading to the rediscovery of ancient
mosaics and ruins. The Church of Saint John the Baptist emerged from
this context, with its construction tied to the reestablishment of a
Christian community. The church’s dedication to John the Baptist
reflects its proximity (43 kilometers) to Machaerus, where, according to
Flavius Josephus (Antiquities 18.5.2) and the Gospels (Mark 6:17–29,
Matthew 14:3–12), John was beheaded by Herod Antipas in the early 30s
CE.
The church’s development unfolded in stages:
1883: Father
Paolo Bandoli built a modest stone-and-mud chapel, marking the first
Christian worship site in modern Madaba.
1892: Father Giuseppe
Manfredi constructed a more substantial two-room church.
1913:
Manfredi secured a Firman (Ottoman permit) to build the current church,
completed as a Roman Catholic basilica on the acropolis, incorporating
ancient remains uncovered during construction.
In 1967, the Vatican
recognized the church as a Shrine of the Beheading of Saint John the
Baptist, affiliating it with the Latin Patriarchate of Jerusalem and
encouraging pilgrimage. The church’s location on the acropolis, believed
to be a Moabite, Roman, and Byzantine fortress, ties it to Madaba’s
layered history, while its modern role reflects the city’s status as
home to Jordan’s largest proportional Christian community (approximately
10–30% of the population).
The Church of Saint John the Baptist is a blend of early 20th-century
Roman Catholic architecture and ancient archaeological remains, designed
as a classical Roman basilica. Its construction on an acropolis hill,
overlooking Madaba and the Dead Sea, enhances its prominence. Below are
the key architectural and archaeological features:
Exterior and
Facade:
The church, completed in 1913, is built from creamy sandstone
sourced from a local house, giving it a warm, antique appearance that
blends with Madaba’s historic aesthetic.
The facade is adorned with
Roman and Corinthian columns, salvaged from ancient structures, which
dot the courtyard and lend a classical gravitas.
A prominent bell
tower, topped with three bells, rises from the courtyard, offering
panoramic views of Madaba and its surroundings. The tower’s narrow,
steep stairs and slender balcony require dexterity to climb, making it a
highlight for adventurous visitors.
Interior Design:
The
church follows a basilica layout with arches and columns supporting the
roof, creating a spacious, bright interior.
The wooden altar is
decorated with fine carvings, reflecting early 20th-century
craftsmanship. Western windows feature colorful stained-glass panels
depicting scenes from John the Baptist’s life, such as his baptism of
Jesus and his preaching.
The entrance is framed by mosaics made of
semiprecious stones, a nod to Madaba’s reputation as the “City of
Mosaics.” Unlike the Byzantine mosaics elsewhere in Madaba, these are
modern but inspired by local traditions.
The chapel houses an icon of
the Beheading of John the Baptist, a focal point for pilgrims,
emphasizing the church’s dedicatory purpose.
Archaeological Features
(Acropolis Museum):
The church sits atop an ancient acropolis, a
fortified hill used by Moabites, Romans, and Byzantines. Excavations
beneath the church revealed a wealth of archaeological remains, now
preserved in the Acropolis Museum within the church’s vaulted
underbelly.
Key discoveries include:
Moabite Well: A
3,000-year-old functioning well from the Moabite period (ca. 1200 BCE),
accessible via narrow stairs. Visitors can lower a bucket to retrieve
drinkable water, connecting directly to the region’s ancient past. The
well’s significance is debated, with some speculating it may relate to
biblical narratives like Rebekah’s well (Genesis 24), though this is
unconfirmed.
Ancient Tunnels and Caverns: A network of underground
passages, likely used for storage or refuge during the acropolis’
earlier phases, provides a cool, musty environment. These tunnels
include displays explaining the “hidden cult” practices of early
Christians under persecution.
Byzantine Ruins: Remnants of structures
predating the church, integrated into the museum’s layout, highlight
Madaba’s continuous occupation.
The museum features exhibits
dedicated to John the Baptist, including a shrine with art and relics,
and a recreated Moabite tent, possibly representing Ruth’s tent from
biblical tradition.
A 19th-century chapel, now a visitor center and
gift shop, displays photographs from 1902–1911, offering insights into
Madaba’s early modern history and the Christian resettlement.
Mosaic Replicas:
While the church itself lacks original Byzantine
mosaics, the visitor center and museum feature replicas of famous Madaba
mosaics, including those from Umm ar-Rasas and St. Stephen’s Church.
These replicas, made with colored stones, complement the church’s modern
mosaics and tie it to the city’s mosaic heritage.
Bell Tower:
The bell tower, accessible via steep metal ladders and narrow stone
stairs, is a standout feature. Climbing it involves maneuvering around
bells and ropes, but the reward is a breathtaking 360-degree view of
Madaba, the Dead Sea, and distant hills. The tower’s narrow balcony has
a flimsy rail, making it unsuitable for those with vertigo.
The Church of Saint John the Baptist holds profound significance as a
religious shrine, a cultural landmark, and an archaeological treasure,
reflecting Madaba’s unique blend of history and faith:
Religious
Importance:
The church’s dedication to the beheading of John the
Baptist ties it to the biblical narrative of John’s execution at
Machaerus, 43 kilometers away. The Vatican’s 1967 recognition as a
shrine underscores its role as a pilgrimage site for Catholics and other
Christians, who visit to honor John, a pivotal figure in Christianity
known for baptizing Jesus.
The icon of the Beheading and the
underground shrine create a spiritual focal point, while the active
parish hosts regular Masses (typically Saturday evenings and Sunday
mornings/evenings, depending on the priest’s schedule). The church
welcomes practicing Catholics for worship, maintaining its role as a
living place of faith.
Madaba’s Christian community, one of Jordan’s
largest, finds a spiritual home in the church, which symbolizes their
resilience and continuity from Byzantine times to the present.
Archaeological and Historical Value:
The church’s location on the
acropolis connects it to Madaba’s 4,500-year history, from Moabite
fortifications to Byzantine settlements. The Acropolis Museum’s
artifacts, particularly the Moabite well, offer a tangible link to the
biblical and pre-biblical past, making the church a draw for historians
and archaeologists.
Excavations under the church, conducted during
its construction and later, have enriched understanding of Madaba’s
urban evolution, revealing how the acropolis served as a political and
religious center across civilizations.
The visitor center’s
photographs and historical displays document the Christian resettlement
of Madaba in the 1880s, highlighting the community’s role in uncovering
the city’s mosaics and reviving its heritage.
Cultural Role:
As part of Madaba’s “City of Mosaics” identity, the church contributes
to the city’s reputation as a cultural hub, complementing sites like the
Madaba Map and Archaeological Park. Its modern mosaics and replicas
reflect the region’s artistic legacy, even if they are not Byzantine
originals.
The church’s integration of ancient and modern elements
symbolizes Madaba’s rebirth in the 19th century, when Christian settlers
transformed a ruined landscape into a vibrant town with churches,
schools, and minarets. This narrative of resilience resonates with
locals and visitors alike.
The church’s educational facilities,
including schools and a library built in the 1960s–2000s, underscore its
role as a community anchor, supporting Madaba’s Christian population and
fostering cultural continuity.
Pilgrimage and Tourism:
The
church is a key stop on Christian pilgrimage routes, often paired with
visits to Mount Nebo, Machaerus, and Bethany Beyond the Jordan. Its
proximity to these sites and its Vatican-endorsed status make it a
must-visit for those tracing John the Baptist’s life and martyrdom.
For secular tourists, the church offers a blend of history, archaeology,
and scenic views, with the bell tower and Acropolis Museum providing
unique experiences not found at other Madaba sites.
The Church of Saint John the Baptist is well-preserved and actively
maintained, serving as both a place of worship and a tourist attraction.
Its current state reflects careful restoration and community
stewardship:
Preservation Efforts:
The church has undergone
several renovations since 1913, with modern updates ensuring structural
stability and accessibility. The Acropolis Museum was developed to
protect and display archaeological finds, with careful curation to
preserve the Moabite well, tunnels, and Byzantine ruins.
The visitor
center, housed in the 19th-century chapel, was transformed in the 1990s
to include exhibits and a gift shop, enhancing the site’s educational
value.
The Latin Patriarchate of Jerusalem oversees the church,
ensuring its maintenance and religious functions, while local
authorities support its role in Madaba’s tourism economy.
Current
Condition:
The church is in excellent condition, with a bright, airy
interior and well-maintained exterior. The stained-glass windows,
mosaics, and carvings remain intact, and the bell tower is structurally
sound, though its steep climb requires caution.
The Acropolis
Museum’s underground spaces are clean and cool, with lighting and
signage to guide visitors through the tunnels and exhibits. The Moabite
well continues to function, a testament to ancient engineering.
The
visitor center’s photographic display and mosaic replicas are
well-preserved, though some visitors note the dim lighting in the
tunnels creates a spooky atmosphere.
Accessibility and Tourism:
The church is open daily from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM, though it closes
during Masses (Saturday evenings, Sunday mornings/evenings) and
occasional Sunday events. Entry costs 1 JOD (approximately 1.41 USD),
not included in the Jordan Pass, with donations appreciated for upkeep.
Located on Prs. Haya St., Madaba, the church is easily accessible by car
(31 minutes from Amman, 3.75 JOD in fuel) or taxi (46.87 JOD from
Amman). Parking is available, and the site is wheelchair-accessible,
though the bell tower and some tunnels may be challenging for those with
mobility issues.
Visitors are advised to dress modestly out of
respect for the religious site and to avoid the bell tower if prone to
vertigo. Guided tours are available for a more in-depth experience, and
the church is part of the self-guided Madaba Archaeological Park walking
tour.
Nearby attractions include the Madaba Map at St. George’s
Church, the Madaba Archaeological Park, and the Mosaic School, making
the church a convenient stop on a broader tour of Madaba.
Visitor
Experience:
Reviews praise the church for its blend of history,
faith, and archaeology, with highlights including the Moabite well,
underground tunnels, and bell tower views. Visitors recommend allocating
30–60 minutes to explore the church, museum, and tower.
The curator
and local parishioners are noted for their knowledge and hospitality,
often sharing stories about the church and Madaba’s Christian heritage.
Some visitors find the tunnels’ dim lighting and narrow passages eerie,
but others appreciate the immersive historical atmosphere. The church’s
air-conditioned information area and restrooms add comfort for tourists.
The Church of Saint John the Baptist has been studied for its
archaeological and historical contributions, offering insights into
Madaba’s past and its Christian revival:
Acropolis Excavations:
The acropolis’ remains, uncovered during the church’s construction,
confirm Madaba’s role as a fortified center from the Moabite period
through Byzantine times. The Moabite well and tunnels suggest a
sophisticated water management and defense system, paralleling other
regional sites like Machaerus.
Christian Resettlement: The church’s
history reflects the broader 19th-century Christian resettlement of
Madaba, documented in sources like the Acts of the Council of Chalcedon
(451 CE) and local traditions. The settlers’ discovery of mosaics during
home construction sparked global interest in Madaba’s Byzantine
heritage, with the church playing a central role in this revival.
Connection to John the Baptist: While the church’s dedication is
symbolic, tied to Machaerus rather than a local beheading site, its
shrine status reinforces Madaba’s place in Christian pilgrimage
networks. The underground shrine and iconography draw on early Christian
traditions of venerating martyrs.
Cultural Synthesis: The church’s
architecture and exhibits blend Roman, Byzantine, and modern Jordanian
elements, mirroring Madaba’s history of cultural synthesis. The use of
ancient columns and modern mosaics reflects a conscious effort to
connect past and present.