The Bedouin Market at Petra, located within the Petra Archaeological Park in southern Jordan’s Ma’an Governorate, is a vibrant, informal collection of stalls and vendors operated primarily by the Bdoul (also spelled Bedul or B’doul) and other Bedouin tribes, such as the Layathnah and Ammarin. Situated along the main trails and key sites of Petra, including the Siq, Street of Facades, Royal Tombs, and paths to Al-Deir (the Monastery), the market is not a centralized, formal marketplace but a dynamic network of temporary booths, blankets, and carts integrated into the ancient Nabataean city’s landscape. These vendors sell handmade crafts, souvenirs, and services like donkey and camel rides, offering tourists a cultural encounter with Jordan’s indigenous Bedouin communities while navigating Petra’s rock-cut tombs and temples.
Petra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985 and one of the New
Seven Wonders of the World (2007), was the capital of the Nabataean
Kingdom (4th century BCE–2nd century CE), a trade hub for spices,
incense, and textiles. The Bdoul Bedouin, who claim descent from the
Nabataeans, have inhabited Petra’s caves and surrounding areas for
centuries, possibly since the 1500s or earlier, living as semi-nomadic
pastoralists and traders. Their presence predates Petra’s rediscovery by
Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812, with early travelers
like Burckhardt noting encounters with the Bdoul as guardians of the
site.
Historically, the Bdoul integrated tourism into their
livelihood, serving as guides, renting caves, and selling food, drinks,
and artifacts like pottery shards. By the 20th century, as Petra’s
global fame grew, their mercantile activities expanded, with stalls
selling souvenirs and offering animal rides becoming a fixture. In 1985,
following Petra’s UNESCO designation, the Jordanian government relocated
most Bdoul from Petra’s caves to the purpose-built village of Umm
Sayhoun, 4–5 km away, to protect the site and promote tourism. This
forced sedentarization disrupted their semi-nomadic lifestyle, limiting
access to grazing lands and crops, and pushed many into
tourism-dependent roles. Despite this, the Bdoul maintain a strong
connection to Petra, viewing themselves as its custodians and leveraging
their heritage to engage with visitors.
The Bedouin Market
reflects the Bdoul’s adaptation to modern economic realities while
preserving cultural traditions. Their oral traditions and knowledge of
Petra’s landscape were recognized as UNESCO Masterpieces of Oral and
Intangible Heritage in 2005, highlighting their role in the site’s
cultural fabric. However, tensions arise from government policies,
tourism pressures, and competing claims to Petra’s heritage, including
national, Islamic, and New Age narratives, as explored in Mikkel Bille’s
Being Bedouin Around Petra.
The Bedouin Market at Petra is not a single, fixed location but a
dispersed collection of stalls and vendors scattered across the
264,000-square-meter archaeological park. Its physical characteristics
are shaped by Petra’s rugged terrain and the Bdoul’s nomadic ingenuity.
Locations and Layout:
Main Trail: Stalls line the 2-km Siq
(narrow gorge) leading to the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), the Street of
Facades, and the Colonnaded Street, with clusters near the Theater,
Royal Tombs (e.g., Corinthian Tomb), and Qasr al-Bint temple. These
high-traffic areas maximize exposure to tourists.
Remote Trails:
Vendors are found on paths to Al-Deir (Monastery) and the High Place of
Sacrifice, often at rest stops or viewpoints. For example, tea shops
near Al-Deir’s plateau offer seating with panoramic views.
Setup:
Stalls range from simple blankets or tarps spread on the ground to
wooden booths, metal frames with fabric roofs, or carts. Some vendors
operate from caves or rock-cut niches, blending into Petra’s landscape.
Stalls are temporary, set up daily and dismantled at closing (6:00 PM
summer, 5:00 PM winter).
Density: The market is densest near the
Treasury and Theater, where dozens of stalls create a bustling
atmosphere. Remote areas, like the Monastery trail, have fewer,
scattered vendors, offering a quieter experience.
Goods and
Services:
Souvenirs: Items include handmade jewelry (silver, beads,
turquoise), scarves, sand bottles with Petra designs, postcards,
magnets, and wooden/stone carvings. Some vendors sell “antique” coins,
pottery, or amphorae, though many are modern replicas or forgeries.
Genuine artifacts are rare due to looting and regulations.
Crafts:
Bedouin women sell woven textiles, rugs, and camel-hair bags, reflecting
traditional craftsmanship. Sand bottles, created by layering colored
sand into intricate patterns, are a popular local art form.
Animal
Rides: Donkey, camel, and horse rides are offered, especially along the
Siq (~5–10 JOD) and Monastery trail (~10–20 JOD round-trip). These are
controversial due to animal welfare concerns, with reports of overworked
donkeys.
Food and Drinks: Tea shops sell Bedouin tea (sweet,
mint-infused, ~2 JOD), coffee, water (~2 JOD), and snacks like nuts or
sweets. Some offer shisha (hookah) or traditional Zarb (meat cooked
underground). Stalls near the Basin Restaurant provide shaded seating.
“Cursy” Stools: A distinctive feature is the “cursy,” a handmade stool
used by vendors, crafted by a Wadi Musa blacksmith from metal frames
with braided seats (rope or fabric). These stools, noted by designer
Matteo Guarnaccia, reflect Bedouin adaptability, with users customizing
braids based on available materials.
Cultural Ambiance:
Vendors, often Bdoul men, women, and children, wear traditional
attire—long robes, headscarves, or goatskin coats—blended with modern
clothing like jeans or sneakers, reflecting cultural transition.
The
market’s atmosphere is lively, with vendors calling out to tourists in
multiple languages (Arabic, English, Italian, Spanish), learned through
interactions. Bargaining is expected, with prices negotiable (e.g.,
jewelry from 10 JOD to 5 JOD).
Stalls integrate with Petra’s ruins,
creating a juxtaposition of ancient sandstone facades and modern
commerce, described as a “market within a historical market.”
Infrastructure:
No formal market structure exists; stalls rely on
Petra’s trails and natural shelters. The Petra Visitor Center (4 km from
Umm Sayhoun) provides no market-specific amenities, but nearby restrooms
and the Basin Restaurant (~2 km from the Treasury) support visitors.
The Jordanian government regulates vending through permits, though
enforcement is inconsistent, leading to occasional arrests of unlicensed
vendors, as reported by Bdoul locals.
The Bedouin Market is a vital economic and cultural lifeline for the
Bdoul and other tribes, navigating the challenges of sedentarization and
tourism dependency:
Economic Role:
Tourism Dependency: Since
the 1985 relocation, 95% of Umm Sayhoun’s Bdoul work in Petra’s tourism,
selling souvenirs, guiding, or offering rides. Tourism accounts for over
10% of Jordan’s GDP, with Petra drawing ~500,000–1 million visitors
annually (2019 peak: 1.1 million).
Child Labor: Over 400 children
work in the market, selling postcards or trinkets, with up to 550 in
high season (spring/autumn). Some, like 13-year-old Raeda Mohammad,
leave school to support families, though others, like 6-year-old Anwar
Naser, balance work and education. This raises ethical concerns, with 41
children dropping out in Umm Sayhoun in 2017.
Entrepreneurship: Bdoul
vendors like Faisal Al Bdoul and Husam Masha’leh, who speak multiple
languages without formal education, exemplify entrepreneurial
adaptability, leveraging tourism to sustain livelihoods.
Economic
Challenges: Tourism fluctuations, such as a 32% drop in 2015 due to the
Syrian war, strain incomes. The COVID-19 pandemic further reduced
visitors, pushing some Bdoul to return to caves illegally.
Social
and Cultural Significance:
Heritage Preservation: The market keeps
Bdoul traditions alive, with crafts like weaving and sand bottles
reflecting their pastoral culture. Their oral traditions, recognized by
UNESCO in 2005, link them to Petra’s Nabataean past, though their
claimed descent is debated by scholars favoring northern Arabian
origins.
Custodianship: The Bdoul view themselves as Petra’s
protectors, a duty articulated by locals like Abu Ismail: “It is our
duty, and the government’s, to protect this archaeological site.” Their
use of Nabataean cisterns, trails, and dams mirrors ancient practices,
preserving a living heritage.
Cultural Transition: Forced relocation
to Umm Sayhoun eroded traditional skills like camel husbandry and
tent-making, as sedentarization introduced electricity and schools. The
market allows Bdoul to maintain identity through crafts and hospitality,
though some, like Khaled, compare their marginalization to Palestinians’
displacement.
Interfaith Context: Petra’s biblical ties (Edom, Moses’
miracle at Ain Musa) draw Christian, Muslim, and Jewish tourists, with
the market serving as a cultural bridge. Bdoul hospitality, offering tea
or meals, reflects Bedouin values of generosity.
Tensions and
Advocacy:
Government Policies: The 1985 relocation, part of
sedentarization and UNESCO compliance, provided housing but lacked
adequate water and electricity, alienating many Bdoul. Arrests of
vendors for minor infractions fuel perceptions of government efforts to
reduce their presence.
Heritage Conflicts: UNESCO’s focus on Petra’s
physical conservation often overlooks Bdoul rights, as noted in Science
(2024), advocating for community involvement in management plans.
Bdoul Strategies: To resist marginalization, the Bdoul emphasize their
Nabataean ancestry, distinguishing themselves from other Bedouin tribes
who stress Muslim Arab roots. This claim, though contested, strengthens
their stake in Petra’s tourism.
Visiting the Bedouin Market is an integral part of exploring Petra,
offering cultural immersion alongside ancient ruins. Below is a detailed
overview:
Access and Logistics:
Location: Stalls are scattered
across Petra’s trails, from the Siq (2 km from the Visitor Center) to
Al-Deir (4–5 km, 800 steps). Key clusters are near the Treasury,
Theater, and Royal Tombs, with tea shops at Al-Deir’s plateau.
Getting There: From Madaba, Petra is 210 km (2.5–3 hours by car, ~20 JOD
fuel) via the Desert Highway (Route 15) or King’s Highway (Route 35).
Taxis from Madaba cost ~50–60 JOD; from Amman (250 km), ~80–100 JOD.
JETT buses from Amman to Wadi Musa cost ~10 JOD (4 hours). The market is
accessible via Petra’s main trail (50 JOD 1-day entry, included in
Jordan Pass ~70 JOD).
Opening Hours: Stalls operate during Petra’s
hours: 6:00 AM–6:00 PM (summer) or 5:00 PM (winter). Peak activity is
9:00 AM–2:00 PM, aligning with tourist flow.
Best Time to Visit:
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) offer mild
temperatures (15–25°C/59–77°F). Summer (June–August) exceeds 35°C
(95°F), requiring early visits. Winter (December–February) brings cooler
weather (5–15°C/41–59°F) and fewer crowds.
What to Expect:
The Market: Visitors encounter stalls every few meters along the Siq,
with vendors calling out phrases like “Happy hour!” or “No hassle!” in
English, Italian, or Spanish. Stalls display colorful jewelry, scarves,
and sand bottles on blankets or racks, with some in caves offering
shade. Tea shops near the Monastery or High Place of Sacrifice provide
seating on rugs or cursy stools, serving tea with valley views.
Goods: Jewelry (5–20 JOD), sand bottles (3–10 JOD), and postcards (~1
JOD) are popular, with bargaining expected (e.g., halve quoted prices).
“Antique” coins or pottery are often replicas; authentic artifacts are
illegal to sell.
Services: Donkey rides to Al-Deir (~10–20 JOD) or
camel rides along the Colonnaded Street (~5–10 JOD) are offered, with
vendors pitching “fast” transport. Tea shops charge ~2 JOD for tea or
water, often including storytelling or shisha.
Interaction: Vendors
are persistent but friendly, using humor or multilingual phrases to
engage tourists. Children, like 6-year-old Anwar selling postcards, add
charm but raise ethical concerns. Bargaining is a cultural norm, but
aggressive sales tactics can feel overwhelming.
Visitor Feedback:
Positives: Tripadvisor and blogs (e.g., Ottsworld) praise the market’s
“vibrant” atmosphere and “authentic” Bedouin hospitality, with tea shops
offering “unforgettable” views. Sand bottles and jewelry are valued as
unique souvenirs, and interactions with multilingual vendors like
“Shakespeare” (Mohammad, speaking 8 languages) are memorable.
Negatives: Some find vendors “pushy” or “obnoxious,” with persistent
sales pitches disrupting Petra’s tranquility. Forgeries (e.g., fake
coins) disappoint buyers expecting authentic artifacts. Animal rides
raise welfare concerns, with overworked donkeys noted in reviews. Child
labor, seen in children selling trinkets, prompts ethical debates. Poor
stall maintenance (litter, worn tarps) detracts from Petra’s grandeur.
Tips: Bargain politely, starting at 50% of quoted prices. Avoid buying
“antiques” unless verified by experts, as exporting artifacts is
illegal. Decline rides or purchases courteously to avoid prolonged sales
pitches. Visit early (6–8 AM) to enjoy stalls before crowds peak. Bring
cash (JOD, small denominations) as cards are rarely accepted. Engage
with vendors like Mofleh Bdoul, who share Petra’s history, for a richer
experience.
Cultural Sensitivity:
Dress modestly (covering
shoulders and knees) to respect Bedouin and Islamic norms. Bargain with
humor but firmness, acknowledging vendors’ livelihoods. Avoid
photographing vendors without permission, especially women and children.
Refuse donkey/camel rides politely if concerned about animal welfare,
and report mistreatment to Petra authorities. Support ethical vendors by
buying crafts from women’s cooperatives (e.g., Petra National Trust).
The Bedouin Market operates in a dynamic but precarious state, shaped
by tourism, government policies, and environmental factors:
Current Condition:
Stalls are functional but informal, with blankets,
tarps, and cursy stools creating a rustic aesthetic. Some booths near
the Treasury are sturdier, with metal frames, but remote stalls (e.g.,
Monastery trail) are basic, often just a rug and goods.
Goods quality
varies, with handmade jewelry and sand bottles authentic, but “antiques”
are largely replicas. Tea shops maintain hygiene, though water bottles
and litter occasionally clutter trails.
Animal welfare is a concern,
with donkeys showing signs of overwork, prompting calls for regulation
by groups like the Petra National Trust.
Preservation and Regulation:
The Jordanian Department of Antiquities and Petra Development and
Tourism Region Authority (PDTRA) regulate vending through permits,
prioritizing Bdoul participation but limiting stall numbers to protect
Petra’s integrity. Unlicensed vendors face fines or arrests, fueling
tensions.
UNESCO and the Petra National Trust advocate sustainable
tourism, training Bdoul guides and promoting crafts to preserve cultural
heritage. However, the 1985 relocation and restricted land access hinder
Bdoul self-sufficiency, as noted in Science (2024).
Environmental
efforts focus on reducing litter and trail damage, with PDTRA cleaning
crews active, though vendor stalls require stricter oversight to prevent
clutter.
Tourism and Accessibility:
The market serves Petra’s
~500,000–1 million annual visitors, peaking in spring/autumn. Its
integration into trails ensures accessibility, with stalls reachable on
foot or by animal ride. The Siq’s flat path suits all, but Monastery
stalls require a strenuous 800-step climb, limiting access for
mobility-impaired visitors.
Wadi Musa’s infrastructure (hotels like
Mövenpick, restaurants, Visitor Center) supports tourists, with the
market enhancing Petra’s cultural appeal. Umm Sayhoun’s proximity (4–5
km) allows Bdoul daily access to vend.
Tourism fluctuations (e.g.,
Syrian war, COVID-19) impact incomes, with 2023–2025 recovery boosting
visitor numbers but straining resources.
Challenges:
Cultural
Erosion: Sedentarization and tourism dependency erode skills like camel
husbandry, with younger Bdoul prioritizing vending over traditional
practices.
Economic Marginalization: High permit costs and arrests
limit Bdoul earnings, with some defying bans to vend illegally. Calls
for royalties or training funds, as suggested by Cultural Survival,
remain unaddressed.
Tourism Impact: Crowds and litter risk degrading
Petra’s trails, with stalls contributing if unregulated. Animal welfare
issues tarnish the market’s image, requiring PDTRA intervention.
Authenticity Debates: The Bdoul’s Nabataean descent claim, used to
assert heritage rights, is contested by scholars favoring Arabian
origins, complicating their cultural narrative. Forgeries sold as
“antiques” undermine trust, as noted by travelers.