Location: Beida, Little Petra, Wadi Musa
Siq al-Barid, commonly known as Little Petra, is a remarkable Nabataean archaeological site located approximately 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) north of the larger and more famous Petra in the Ma’an Governorate of southern Jordan. Often referred to as Petra’s “northern suburb,” this smaller yet captivating site is nestled within a 450-meter-long (1,480-foot) narrow canyon, known as the “cold canyon” due to its high sandstone walls that block sunlight, keeping the area shaded and cool. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site and part of the broader Petra Archaeological Park, Little Petra offers a quieter, more intimate glimpse into the Nabataean civilization’s architectural prowess, cultural practices, and role in ancient trade networks.
Siq al-Barid was constructed during the height of the Nabataean
Kingdom’s influence, primarily in the 1st century BCE to 1st century CE,
when Petra served as a major hub along the Silk Road and other trade
routes connecting Arabia, Egypt, Syria, and the Mediterranean. The
Nabataeans, a nomadic Bedouin tribe that transitioned into a
sophisticated mercantile civilization, were renowned for their rock-cut
architecture and advanced hydraulic engineering. While Petra was the
political, commercial, and ceremonial capital, Little Petra is believed
to have functioned as a complementary site with a more practical and
residential focus.
Archaeologists propose that Siq al-Barid
served multiple purposes:
Caravan Stop and Trading Post: The site
likely acted as a resupply and hospitality center for caravans traveling
through Petra. Its fertile surroundings, supported by cisterns and
agricultural activity, provided grazing for animals and provisions like
grain, olive oil, and wine for traders. The presence of dining halls
suggests it was a place for entertaining merchants and facilitating
trade negotiations.
Agricultural Suburb: The area around Little
Petra, particularly near Al-Beidha, was a hub for agriculture, including
viticulture (wine production), as evidenced by numerous well-preserved
wine presses. This suggests that Siq al-Barid supported Petra’s economy
by supplying food and goods.
Residential and Cultic Center: Unlike
Petra, which is dominated by monumental tombs and temples, Little
Petra’s rock-cut structures include dwellings and banqueting halls,
indicating it housed residents or temporary visitors. Some structures
may have had religious or ritual significance, particularly those linked
to the Dionysiac cult, as seen in the site’s frescoes.
Possible
Training Ground: Some theories suggest Little Petra was a “practice
site” where Nabataean artisans honed their rock-cutting skills before
working on Petra’s grander monuments.
After the decline of the
Nabataean Kingdom, following its annexation by the Roman Empire in 106
CE, Siq al-Barid, like Petra, was largely abandoned by the 8th century
CE. Bedouin tribes later used its caves for shelter and storage, leaving
traces of campfires and graffiti that have impacted some structures. The
site remained relatively overlooked by archaeologists until the 20th
century, with significant conservation efforts, such as those on the
Painted Biclinium, occurring between 2006 and 2010.
Siq al-Barid’s compact layout, centered around a narrow wadi (valley)
framed by towering sandstone cliffs, mirrors Petra’s iconic Siq but on a
smaller scale. The canyon, approximately 350–450 meters long, features
three wider open areas connected by narrower passages, with rock-cut
buildings densely packed along the walls. The site’s design reflects the
Nabataeans’ mastery of blending natural landscapes with functional
architecture. Below are the main features of Siq al-Barid:
1. The
Entrance and Siq
Description: Visitors enter Little Petra through a
narrow, winding gorge carved into the sandstone, similar to Petra’s Siq
but shorter and less grandiose. The entrance is flanked by a rock-cut
tomb (Façade 846) with a classical Nabataean design, featuring relief
pillars, quarter columns, and a metope-triglyph frieze, dating to the
1st century BCE–1st century CE.
Characteristics: The Siq is about
350–450 meters long, with walls rising 90–180 meters (300–600 feet) in
places. Its name, “cold canyon,” derives from the limited sunlight that
penetrates the high walls, creating a shaded, cool environment. The
passage widens at intervals, revealing open plazas with carved
structures. The natural curves and vibrant hues of the sandstone—ranging
from reds to whites—add to its visual allure.
Significance: The gated
entrance and narrow passageway suggest controlled access, possibly for
security or to manage caravan traffic. The Siq’s hydrological
engineering, including cisterns and water channels, ensured a reliable
water supply for inhabitants and visitors.
2. First Open Area:
Temple and Cave Dwellings
Description: After entering the Siq, the
canyon opens into a plaza-like area where a prominent rock-cut temple
stands above a series of cave dwellings. The temple, supported by two
well-preserved columns, features a portico and pediment, indicative of
Greco-Roman influences adopted by the Nabataeans. The cave dwellings
below likely served as homes or storage spaces.
Significance: The
temple’s elevated position and elaborate facade suggest it held
religious or ceremonial importance, possibly dedicated to a deity like
Dushara, the Nabataean god. The dwellings reflect the site’s residential
function, housing locals or visiting traders.
3. Second Open
Area: Triclinia and Painted Biclinium
Triclinia (Dining Halls): This
area features four rock-cut triclinia, ceremonial dining halls with
benches along three walls, designed for reclining diners. These spaces,
one on the left and three on the right, were likely used for feasting
and social or religious gatherings, possibly to entertain merchants or
honor ancestors. Their density is notable, as few blank spaces remain on
the canyon walls.
Painted Biclinium (Painted House): Located on the
south side of the Siq, accessible via rock-cut stairs, the Painted
Biclinium is Little Petra’s most iconic feature. This smaller dining
room, with two benches, houses rare Nabataean frescoes on its ceiling
and back wall, dating to approximately 40 BCE–25 CE. The frescoes,
restored between 2006 and 2010 by the Petra National Trust and the
Courtauld Institute of Art, depict:
Vines, flowers, and birds,
showcasing Hellenistic artistic influences.
Mythological figures,
including erotes (winged gods associated with love and wine), a Pan
figure playing a flute, and a winged cupid with a bow and arrow.
Scenes of viticulture, with figures using ladders and pruning hooks,
suggesting the area’s wine-making significance.
Faux architectural
elements, reminiscent of Pompeian wall paintings.
Significance: The
frescoes are among the few surviving examples of Nabataean painting,
offering insights into their artistic sophistication and religious
practices, particularly their connection to the Dionysiac cult, which
celebrated wine and excess. The conservation effort revealed vibrant
colors and intricate details previously obscured by soot and graffiti
from Bedouin campfires. The Biclinium’s fencing protects the delicate
artwork, but visitors can still photograph it from the entrance.
4. Third Open Area and Viewpoint
Description: The Siq concludes in a
third open area with a steep, worn staircase leading to a flat ledge and
a panoramic viewpoint. From here, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of
the surrounding wadi and Petra’s mountainous landscape. A rough
6-kilometer (3.7-mile) trail extends from this point to Ad-Deir (the
Monastery) in Petra’s main site, offering an alternative entrance for
hikers, though a guide is recommended due to the lack of signage.
Significance: The viewpoint provides a stunning perspective of the
region’s rugged beauty, emphasizing Little Petra’s strategic location in
a fertile valley. The trail to Ad-Deir connects Siq al-Barid to Petra,
reinforcing its role as a satellite settlement.
5. Additional
Structures and Features
Tombs and Facades: While less funerary than
Petra, Little Petra includes rock-cut tombs, such as Façade 846 at the
entrance, with intricate carvings reflecting Nabataean funerary
architecture. Other facades may have served decorative or symbolic
purposes.
Cisterns and Water Channels: The site’s sophisticated
hydraulic system, including cisterns and channels carved into the rock,
supported agriculture and daily life. Some cisterns are still used by
local Bedouins for livestock.
Rock-Cut Stairs and Pathways: Numerous
staircases and pathways branch off the main Siq, leading to upper-level
structures or viewpoints. These “multistorey alleyways” suggest a
bustling, densely populated site during its peak.
Siq al-Barid offers a unique window into Nabataean society,
complementing the grandeur of Petra with a more intimate, functional
perspective:
Trade and Economy: As a caravan stop, Little Petra
was integral to Petra’s role as a trade hub, facilitating commerce along
routes to China, Egypt, and the Mediterranean. The triclinia and Painted
Biclinium highlight the Nabataeans’ hospitality and social customs,
possibly including ritual feasting as described by the ancient writer
Strabo, who noted their communal meals with music and singers.
Art
and Religion: The Painted Biclinium’s frescoes reveal the Nabataeans’
adoption of Hellenistic and Greco-Roman artistic styles, as well as
their reverence for Dionysus, the god of wine, reflecting the region’s
viticultural wealth. The presence of temples and cultic spaces suggests
religious activity, possibly linked to ancestor veneration or
trade-related rituals.
Daily Life: The cave dwellings, storage
chambers, and agricultural infrastructure indicate that Little Petra
supported a resident population and transient traders, offering a
glimpse into the Nabataeans’ practical adaptations to their desert
environment.
Preservation and Rediscovery: While Petra has long
captivated explorers since its rediscovery by Jacob Burckhardt in 1812,
Little Petra remained secondary until recent decades. The conservation
of the Painted Biclinium has elevated its status, drawing attention to
its unique artistic heritage.
Access and Logistics
Location: Little Petra is 9 km north of Wadi
Musa, the gateway town to Petra, accessible via a scenic road passing
the Bedouin village of Umm Sayhoun. The site is near Al-Beidha, a
Neolithic village, making it a convenient half-day trip.
Transportation: Visitors can reach Little Petra by:
Car or Taxi: A
15–20-minute drive from Wadi Musa, with a free parking lot at the
entrance.
Guided Tours: Many Petra tours include Little Petra, often
in the afternoon. Private or group tours are available from Wadi Musa,
Aqaba, or Amman.
Hiking or Camel/Horse: Traditional options exist for
adventurous travelers, including a 6-km guided hike from Little Petra to
Petra’s Monastery.
Entrance Fee: Unlike Petra, Little Petra is free
to visit, though a Petra ticket is required for hikers continuing to
Ad-Deir.
Opening Hours: The site is open daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00
PM in summer and 6:00 AM to 4:00 PM in winter, aligning with Petra’s
schedule.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning (around 6–7 AM) offers the best
experience, with fewer crowds and cooler temperatures. Spring
(March–May) and fall (September–November) are ideal due to mild weather.
The canyon’s shade makes it comfortable year-round, but pack a jacket
for winter or early mornings.
Time Required: Exploring Little Petra
takes 1–1.5 hours for a standard visit, or 2.5–3 hours with Al-Beidha or
hiking. The compact size makes it suitable for families or those with
limited time.
What to Bring: Wear comfortable walking shoes, bring
water, and carry a fleece or jacket due to the canyon’s cool
microclimate. A camera is essential for capturing the frescoes and
views.
Guides and Amenities: Local Bedouin vendors sell snacks,
drinks, and souvenirs near the entrance. Guides are available but not
pushy, and the site’s lack of signage may make a guide or guidebook
helpful for context.
Safety: The staircases lack railings, so
supervise children closely. Check weather conditions, as flash floods
are a risk in the canyon during rain.
Highlights Not to Miss
Marvel at the Painted Biclinium’s frescoes, a rare artistic treasure.
Climb the staircase at the Siq’s end for panoramic views.
Explore the
triclinia and imagine ancient feasts.
Admire the temple and cave
dwellings in the first plaza for their architectural elegance.