Location: South- East of Madaba Map
Umm ar-Rasas, also known as Kastron Mefaa or Mephaat, is an ancient archaeological site in central Jordan, approximately 30 kilometers southeast of Madaba and 75 kilometers south of Amman, along the historic King’s Highway. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, it is celebrated for its well-preserved Byzantine mosaics, Roman fortifications, and early Christian and Islamic heritage. The site spans the 3rd to 9th centuries CE, offering a window into the region’s Roman, Byzantine, and early Muslim periods.
Umm ar-Rasas has roots stretching back to the Iron Age (circa 800
BCE), with its significance evolving through multiple eras:
Biblical Origins: Scholars associate Umm ar-Rasas with Mephaat, a
Moabite settlement mentioned in the Book of Jeremiah (48:21) and Joshua
(13:18, 20) as a city destined for destruction and a refuge for those
guilty of unintentional killing. Its identification as Mephaat was
confirmed by Byzantine church inscriptions naming the site “Castron
Mephaa.”
Roman Period (3rd–4th Century CE): The site began as a Roman
military camp, part of the Limes Arabicus, a desert frontier defending
against nomadic incursions. A large rectangular fort (158 x 139 meters)
housed a garrison, with thick walls and watchtowers symbolizing Roman
imperial power. Eusebius of Caesarea’s Onomasticon (4th century) notes
Mephaat as a Roman army campsite near the desert.
Byzantine
Transformation (5th–8th Century CE): By the 5th century, Umm ar-Rasas
evolved into a thriving Christian ecclesiastical center, fueled by the
surge in Christian pilgrimage to the Holy Land. Over 20 churches and
monasteries were built, many adorned with intricate mosaic floors. The
site became a hub for monks, pilgrims, and settlers, reflecting
Byzantine architectural and artistic prowess.
Islamic Period (7th–9th
Century CE): After the Muslim conquest in 636 CE (Battle of Yarmouk),
Umm ar-Rasas remained a vibrant Christian community under Umayyad and
Abbasid rule. The Church of St. Stephen’s mosaic floor, dated to 785 CE,
was crafted over a century after Muslim rule began, indicating religious
tolerance. However, the site declined in the 9th century, possibly due
to economic shifts or natural disasters, leaving it largely abandoned.
Later History: The site saw minimal activity after the 9th century, with
some Ottoman-era stone houses and temporary Bedouin encampments. Its
isolation preserved its ruins, making it a pristine archaeological site
today.
The name “Umm ar-Rasas” derives from the Arabic root “Rass,”
meaning to align or stack precisely, reflecting the site’s tightly
fitted stone construction that withstood earthquakes. Earlier theories
linking the name to “rasas” (lead) and lead sarcophagi have been
disproven.
Umm ar-Rasas is renowned for its extensive ruins, with only about
20% excavated, leaving much of its potential palaces, markets, and
structures buried under desert debris. Key features include:
Church of St. Stephen
Mosaic Floor: The site’s crown jewel is the
largest intact mosaic floor in Jordan, laid in 718–785 CE, housed in
a modern protective structure. Discovered in 1986 by Franciscan
archaeologist Michele Piccirillo, it spans the church’s nave and
depicts:
Fifteen Cities: Vignettes of major Holy Land cities,
including Jerusalem (labeled “Holy City”), Amman (Philadelphia),
Madaba, Karak (Charachmoba), and Palestinian cities like Nablus,
Gaza, and Caesarea, all inscribed in Greek. These provide a
historical snapshot of 8th-century geography.
Hunting and Fishing
Scenes: The central panel features vivid pastoral and aquatic
imagery, showcasing daily life.
Decorative Borders: Intricate
patterns of leaves, trees, birds, and scrolls frame the mosaic,
signed by six master craftsmen: Staurachios, Euremios, Elias,
Constantinus, Germanus, and Abdela.
Significance: The mosaic’s
creation during the Abbasid period highlights a flourishing
Christian community under Muslim rule. Catwalks allow visitors to
view it from multiple angles, revealing its vibrant colors and
craftsmanship.
Underlying Mosaic: The St. Stephen mosaic overlays
an earlier, damaged floor from the Church of Bishop Sergius (587
CE), indicating layered construction.
Other Churches
Church of the Lions: Outside the city walls, named for its mosaic
depicting two lions, symbolizing strength or guardianship.
Church
of the Rivers and Church of the Palm Tree: Built into the eastern
wall, these feature mosaics named for their motifs of rivers and
palm trees, set within a courtyard.
Additional Churches: Of the
16 known churches (four inside the walls, 11 outside), many have
traces of mosaics, though some are exposed to the elements and await
restoration. The Church of St. Paul is noted for its three iconic
arches, a frequent photographic subject.
Stylite Tower
Located 1.6 kilometers north of the city walls, this
14–15-meter-high Byzantine square tower is a rare surviving example
of a stylite structure. Used by ascetic monks (stylites) who lived
atop pillars for years in isolation, fasting, and prayer, it lacks a
door or internal staircase, emphasizing their separation from the
world. A cross is carved on three sides, and a small chamber at the
top housed the monk. Nearby ruins include a small church, a
three-story building, and rock-cut cisterns. The tower’s uniqueness
and association with monasticism contribute to Umm ar-Rasas’s UNESCO
status.
Roman Fort and City Walls
The rectangular fort,
with gates on the north, south, and east, encloses the main ruins.
Its walls, though reduced to rubble in places, still stand
partially, with door lintels and arches rising amidst the debris.
The fort’s size and strategic location along the Via Traiana Nova (a
Roman road branching from the King’s Highway) underscore its
military importance.
Beyond the walls, especially to the north,
lie additional structures, including churches, residential
buildings, a winery, and agricultural remnants, indicating a
sprawling settlement.
Water Cisterns and Agricultural Traces
Extensive underground cisterns from the 6th century stored
rainwater, showcasing advanced water management in the arid steppe.
These engineering feats supported the city’s population.
Surrounding the site are remnants of ancient agricultural
cultivation, remarkable for their adaptation to the semi-arid
environment.
Umm ar-Rasas is a testament to cultural continuity and artistic
excellence:
Mosaic Art: The site’s mosaics, particularly in
St. Stephen’s Church, rival those of nearby Madaba. Their late
8th-century creation under Muslim rule reflects a blend of Christian
and Islamic influences, with some mosaics showing signs of
iconoclasm (defacement of human figures), possibly due to internal
Christian reforms or Muslim sensitivities.
Religious Tolerance:
The coexistence of Christian communities under Umayyad and Abbasid
rule, as evidenced by the 785 CE mosaic, highlights a period of
religious tolerance, with Christians and Muslims sharing the space.
Tradition holds that the Prophet Muhammad passed through as a youth
with a merchant caravan.
Monasticism and Pilgrimage: The stylite
tower and numerous churches underscore Umm ar-Rasas’s role as a
pilgrimage destination and monastic hub, drawing devout Christians
seeking spiritual communion.
UNESCO Criteria: The site meets
UNESCO criteria for its artistic genius (mosaic floors), unique
stylite towers, and association with the spread of monotheism,
including Christianity and Islam.
Umm ar-Rasas is less visited than Jordan’s marquee sites like Petra
or Wadi Rum, offering a quieter, more introspective experience. Key
details for visitors:
What to See:
St. Stephen’s Church:
The mosaic floor is the main draw, protected by a modern building
with viewing platforms.
Stylite Tower: A 1-mile walk or drive
north, essential for understanding the site’s monastic heritage.
Roman Fort and Arches: Wander the ruins to explore crumbling walls,
arches, and cisterns, imagining life in a Roman garrison or
Byzantine town.
Other Churches: The Church of the Lions and
others offer additional mosaics, though some are less preserved.
Getting There:
Location: 30 km southeast of Madaba,
accessible via the King’s Highway. It’s a 40-minute drive from
Madaba or 1.5 hours from Amman.
Transport: Taxis or private cars
from Madaba are common. Buses from Amman to Madaba, followed by a
taxi, are an option. Guided tours often include Umm ar-Rasas in
Madaba or Dead Sea itineraries.
Admission: Entry is free, or
included with the Jordan Pass, which also covers Petra, Wadi Rum,
and other sites. Tickets are purchased at the main office.
Best
Time to Visit: March–May or September–November for mild weather
(15–25°C / 59–77°F). Summers are scorching (up to 40°C / 104°F), and
winters can be windy and rainy at the site’s high altitude. Sunset
enhances the ruins’ ambiance.
Tips:
Wear sturdy shoes for
uneven terrain, as the site is not disability-accessible.
Respect
the fragile ruins; avoid climbing on unstable structures.
Hire a
local guide for deeper historical context, especially for the
mosaics and tower.
Visit the small on-site museum for context
before exploring.
Nearby Attractions: Combine with Madaba’s
mosaic map, Mount Nebo, or Wadi Mujib for a day trip. The King’s
Highway offers scenic views and other historical stops like Karak
Castle.
Excavation Status: With less than 20% of the site excavated, much
remains buried, limiting full understanding of its scope. Ongoing
work by the Studium Biblicum Franciscanum and Jordan’s Department of
Antiquities aims to uncover more.
Environmental Threats: Exposed
mosaics face damage from sun and wind, though protective structures
like that over St. Stephen’s help. Restoration is needed for others.
Tourism Impact: Low visitor numbers preserve the site’s authenticity
but limit funding for conservation. Increased tourism could strain
the fragile ruins if not managed sustainably.