Location: Phitsanulok and Phetchabun Provinces Map
Area: 307 km²
Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park is a rugged, mountainous protected area in northern Thailand, known for its dramatic landscapes, unique rock formations, lush forests, and significant historical ties to Thailand's communist insurgency era. Spanning approximately 307 square kilometers (119 square miles), it offers a blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage, attracting visitors interested in hiking, wildlife, and history. The park's elevation and cool climate make it a refreshing escape from Thailand's tropical heat, with temperatures often staying below 25°C and occasionally dipping to freezing in winter.
The park is primarily located in Phitsanulok Province, about 130
kilometers from Phitsanulok city center, but it extends into Loei and
Phetchabun provinces, lying roughly 40 kilometers from the Laotian
border. It sits in the forested mountains of the Luang Prabang Range,
part of the Phetchabun Mountains and the broader Luang Prabang montane
rain forests ecoregion, which stretches north along the Thai-Laos
border. The terrain is characterized by fold mountains (complex, rugged
peaks) running east to west, with the highest point being Phu Man Khao
at around 1,820 meters above sea level, followed by Phu Lom Lo at 1,664
meters, Phu Phaeng Ma, Phu Khi Tao, and Phu Hin Rong Kla itself. These
mountains act as watersheds for several streams, including Huai Lam Nam
Sai, Huai Luang Yai, Nam Khumun, Om Sing, and Mueat Don creeks.
The
landscape features a mix of forest types: mixed deciduous and dry
dipterocarp forests in lower elevations with species like Burma sal
(Shorea obtusa) and Dipterocarpus tuberculatus; hill evergreen forests
in higher, humid zones with evergreen chinkapin (Castanopsis spp.) and
rattan; and coniferous forests dominated by Khasya pine (Pinus kesiya)
and Merkus pine on open plains. A 37-kilometer road connects the western
and eastern checkpoints, providing access to most sites, though the area
is steep and challenging, especially for sedans. The climate is cool
throughout the year, with average temperatures of 18-25°C; winters
(November-February) can see fog and lows of 0-4°C, summers remain mild,
and the rainy season (June-October) brings heavy precipitation.
Phu Hin Rong Kla has a turbulent past tied to Thailand's communist
insurgency. From 1968 to 1982, its remote, rugged terrain made it a
major stronghold for the Communist Party of Thailand (CPT), serving as a
base during conflicts with the Royal Thai Armed Forces. The area was a
hub for guerrilla warfare, with CPT establishing camps, schools,
hospitals, and other facilities. Early military operations, like the
1972 Phu Khwang campaign involving army, navy, air force, police, and
civilians, failed due to the dense forests and complex mountains.
However, government policies in the early 1980s, including cooperation
with local Hmong hill tribes, led to the insurgents' peaceful surrender
without further casualties.
Post-conflict, a 1983 survey by the Royal
Forest Department recommended designating the area as a national park
for its natural and historical value. It was officially established as
Thailand's 48th national park on July 26, 1984, and has since been
managed by the Protected Areas Regional Office 11 in Phitsanulok. Today,
remnants of the CPT era—such as bunkers, meeting halls, and
artifacts—are preserved as educational sites, highlighting the
consequences of armed conflict and the heroism of those involved. The
park attracted about 289,210 visitors in 2019, reflecting its growing
popularity as a site of historical reflection.
The park's diverse ecosystems support a rich array of plant life.
Notable flora includes Khasya pine woods, red maples (Acer spp.) around
former barracks, and wild orchids like Habenaria rhodochela, Doritis,
and Dendrobium species that bloom from late rainy season to early winter
on rocky outcrops, alongside ferns, mosses, lichens, and seasonal
wildflowers. The forests have recovered somewhat since the insurgency,
but past human activity caused some damage.
Wildlife populations were
heavily impacted by the conflict and human settlement, leading to the
extirpation of many larger mammals, though numbers are slowly
increasing. Mammals include rare sightings of leopards (Panthera
pardus), Asian black bears (Ursus thibetanus), Asian golden cats
(Catopuma temminckii), hog badgers (Arctonyx collaris), Indochinese
serows (Capricornis milneedwardsii), barking deer (Muntiacus muntjak),
Indian muntjac (Muntiacus vaginalis), mouse deer (Tragulus spp.), and
possibly tigers (Panthera tigris), though evidence is lacking due to the
park's limited size. Birdlife is abundant, with over 260 species
recorded, including around 190 passerines (e.g., rusty-cheeked scimitar
babblers, white-headed bulbuls) and 70 non-passerines (e.g., Siamese
firebacks, grey peacock-pheasants, red-headed trogons, Hodgson's
frogmouths). Reptiles (18 species from 4 families) and amphibians (15
species from 5 families) are also present, adding to the biodiversity.
The park's attractions combine natural wonders and historical sites,
accessible via short trails or the main road. Key natural features
include bizarre rock formations at Lan Hin Pum (a series of viewpoints
with west-facing valleys and a 3 km circular trail) and Lan Hin Taek (a
cracked stone sheet resembling splitting land, less than 0.5 km from
headquarters, adorned with orchids and ferns). Waterfalls abound: Man
Daeng (a 32-tiered cascade on Man Creek, requiring a 3.5 km guided
trail); Romklao and Pharadon (twin falls accessible by a 1 km trail);
Sri Pachrin (medium-sized, 600 m trail); Huai Khamin Noi; Pha Lat; Tat
Fa (or Tan Gawsahng); and Ganglad. Viewpoints like Pha Chu Thong (a
cliff), Thap Boek, and Phu Lom Lo offer panoramic vistas.
Historical
attractions center on CPT remnants: the insurgent headquarters (3.5 km
trail featuring meeting places, jails, intelligence centers, wooden
huts, water wheels, cafeterias, and cloth shops); a military political
school; air raid shelters; and the "Death Bridge." A small museum at the
visitor center displays artifacts like weapons, medical instruments,
Chinese anatomy charts, and paintings of Mao Tse Tung and Joseph Stalin.
Another Thailand-Communism museum provides deeper insights.
Activities include hiking nature trails (e.g., to headquarters or
waterfalls, 0.6-3.5 km), trekking, geological observation, flower and
plant viewing, birdwatching, stargazing, and cultural/history tours. No
public transport operates inside; visitors need a private vehicle or
guided tour.
The park is enjoyable year-round, but the rainy season (June-October) offers misty mornings, vibrant wildflowers, and full waterfalls amid lush greenery. Winter (November-February) is ideal for cooler weather (perfect for hiking) and blooming cherry trees in January. Avoid summer if sensitive to haze, though temperatures remain mild.
Park-run accommodations include bungalows and houses like Rong Kla 101-110 and 201-206, sleeping 2-30 people, priced from 800-6,000 Baht per night (discounts Monday-Thursday). All have hot water showers; book via the DNP website (nps.dnp.go.th/reservation.php) and pay within Thailand. Camping is available near the visitor center: rent tents (225 Baht for 2-3 people) plus sleeping gear (60 Baht/person), with 24-hour access and facilities. Two restaurants operate near headquarters (7 am-8 pm), and vendors are at Lan Hin Pum. The visitor center is open 8 am-4:30 pm; ranger stations provide support. Mobile coverage (AIS, TRUE, DTAC) is available at headquarters.
Entrance fees (as of 2022): 200 Baht for foreign adults, 100 Baht for children (3-14); Thai nationals pay 40/20 Baht. Vehicles: 30 Baht/car. Keep receipts for checks. Some trails (e.g., Man Daeng) require park staff guidance. Contact: Tel +66 8 1596 5977, email phuh-055@hotmail.co.th, Facebook @PhuhinrongklaNP.
From Bangkok (about 500 km, 6 hours by car): Take Highway 1 north to Highway 32 via Ayutthaya, Singburi, Chainat, and Nakhon Sawan, then Highway 117 to Phitsanulok. From Phitsanulok: Highway 12 east 68 km, left on Road 2013 north 24 km to Nakhon Thai, then right on Highway 2331 (steep uphill). From Phetchabun: Highway 21 north 40 km, left on Highway 12 for 5 km, right on Road 2372 north 16 km, then left toward the park. The road is winding; cool engines on ascents.