Location: Phitsanulok and Phetchabun Provinces
Area: 1262 km²
Thung Salaeng Luang National Park is situated in Phitsanulok and Phetchabun Provinces of Thailand. The natural park covers an area of 1262 km² on limestone hills that range from 300 to 1028 meters above sea level. Most of Thung Salaeng Luang National Park is covered by deciduous and mixed deciduous forests. Tropical evergreens and meadows are also fairly common in the region. The idea of establishing a park here was first proposed in the 1950's, however from the late 50's to early 70's this area was inhabited by guerrillas of the Communist Party of Thailand. So Thung Salaeng Luang National Park became a nature reserve on in 1972 once government troops re took control of the region. River Wang Thing flows through Thung Salaeng Luang National Park. One of the most beautiful waterfalls is that of Kaeng Song also known as Namtok Kaeng Sopha falls. It is the largest in the province of Phitsanulok and local simply refer to it as "Niagara" as a reference to American- Canadian famous travel destination. The best time to visit the area of Thung Salaeng Luang National Park is from November to December. The whole forest is blooming with flowers. The whole jungle come alive with over 160 species of birds flocking to these lands. Additionally there are Asian elephants, palm civet, yellow pine marten and many other animals that call this park their home.
Best Time to Visit
The cool/dry season (November to February) is
ideal. Expect daytime temperatures of 15–28°C (59–82°F), clear skies,
minimal rain, and excellent conditions for hiking and photography.
Mornings often feature dramatic sea-of-mist over the savannas
(especially October–February), golden grasslands, and wildflower blooms.
Nights can drop to around 5°C, so bring layers.
Peak months
(Nov–Jan): More visitors on weekends, but still uncrowded compared to
famous parks. Book accommodations early.
Shoulder (late Nov or early
Feb): Great weather, fewer crowds, and better rates.
Avoid:
June–October (monsoon season) brings heavy rains, muddy/slippery trails,
flooding risks, and limited access. March–May is hot (up to 35°C+),
making daytime activities exhausting.
Key Attractions and
Activities
Nong Mae Na area (main eastern visitor center in Khao Kho
District, Phetchabun): Iconic open savannas with morning mist, easy
grassland walks, and viewpoints. Safari-style drives (about 14 km to
Thung Nang Phaya and back) cost around 800 THB for up to 10 people.
Rope Bridge Campsite / Headquarters (northern edge, Nakhon Thai
District, Phitsanulok): Near Khek River; features a rope bridge crossing
and access to trails.
Waterfalls:
Sri Dit Waterfall:
Accessible single-tier fall with a wide cliff; flows year-round, about
12 km from Nong Mae Na.
Kaeng Sopha Waterfall: Large cascading falls
(strong currents in rainy season); about 10–11 km from northern
campsite.
Hiking and Trails: Mix of easy meadow walks, pine
forest paths, and moderate ridge hikes. Some dirt roads (e.g., 13 km
loops) allow exploration; no extensive marked long-distance trails for
casual visitors, but self-guided wandering is possible. Multi-day treks
exist for more adventurous types.
Wildlife: Common birds (110+
species), deer, small mammals. Elephants and other large animals are
rare sightings. Low-key birdwatching and nature observation shine here.
Other: Tham Phra Wang Daeng (Thailand’s longest cave, on the west
side—requires guides/permits for deeper exploration). Seasonal cycling
or photography in pine-savanna landscapes.
Getting There and
Transportation
No direct public transport reaches the park
entrances—private vehicle or arranged transfer is essential.
From
Phetchabun: Hwy 21 north, then Hwy 2258; about 40–55 km to Nong Mae Na
(coordinates: 16.5790, 100.8831).
From Phitsanulok: Longer drive to
northern areas or Hwy 12 access.
From Bangkok: Bus/train to
Phitsanulok or Phetchabun (6–8 hours), then taxi/motorbike rental or
private transfer. Renting a scooter or car in a nearby town (e.g., Lom
Sak or Khao Kho) is popular for flexibility.
Inside the park: Limited
roads; some dirt tracks best in dry season (scooters possible, cars
riskier when wet).
Tip: Use coordinates in navigation apps and
confirm routes, as Google Maps can mislead toward the headquarters
instead of Nong Mae Na.
Entrance Fees and Practicalities (as of
recent data)
Foreign adults: Around 200 THB (some sources note higher
in certain zones or past increases up to 500 THB—confirm on-site).
Children 100 THB. Thais pay lower rates (40/20 THB). Vehicle fees apply
(cars ~30 THB).
Opening hours: Vary by area—Nong Mae Na often 6 am–8
pm; headquarters/Rope Bridge ~8 am–4 pm. Check current status.
Rules:
No littering, stay on paths, respect wildlife (keep distance), no
feeding animals. Follow park guidelines for safety. Camping and
overnight stays have specific rules.
Accommodation and Camping
Camping is one of the best ways to experience the park, especially for
misty sunrises.
Nong Mae Na Campsite: Prime savanna views.
Rope
Bridge Campsite: Riverside setting.
Tent rental: ~225 THB (3-person);
own tent ~30 THB. Sleeping sets extra (~60 THB/person).
Bungalows:
Available at both areas (1,000–5,000 THB depending on size/capacity).
Book in advance via DNP website (best from within Thailand due to
payment logistics).
Nearby towns (Lom Sak, Khao Kho, Phetchabun):
Guesthouses, hotels for day-trippers or more comfort.
Restaurants
are limited—mainly at visitor centers during high season (Nov–Jan);
otherwise, small shops for noodles/drinks. Bring snacks or eat in towns.
In-Depth Visiting Tips
Pack smart: Sturdy hiking shoes (trails
can be steep/slippery), rain jacket (weather changes), layers for cool
nights, insect repellent, sun protection, headlamp, reusable water
bottle, and binoculars for wildlife/birds. GPS or offline maps
recommended.
Safety: Wildlife encounters are uncommon but possible
(snakes, etc.—keep distance). Trails less marked in places; start early
to avoid heat/midday sun and have daylight for returns. Strong river
currents at waterfalls in wet season.
Health/Prep: Limited facilities
inside—carry first aid, enough water/food. Pharmacies and hospitals in
nearby towns. Respect "no photos with animals" or other rules.
Photography: Golden hour and mist are magical—bring a tripod or
wide-angle lens. Drones may have restrictions.
Budget: Low-cost for
camping/self-guided; factor in transport and fees. Group safari tours
help share costs.
Cultural notes: Thai visitors often barbecue at
campsites—be respectful of shared spaces. Basic Thai phrases help with
staff (English limited).
Sustainability: Stick to Leave No Trace;
support conservation by following rules.
Accessibility: Not highly
developed for wheelchair users; focus on main viewpoints and shorter
paths.
Name Origin and Pre-Establishment Context
The park’s name
literally translates to “Field (or Meadow) of the Salaeng Luang Trees.”
“Thung” refers to open grassy plains, while “Salaeng Luang” (or Salaeng
Jai) denotes the Strychnos nux-vomica tree (poison nut tree), which was
once abundant in the area’s meadows.
Before formal protection, the
region consisted of remote, rolling hills and rugged limestone ranges
used for subsistence by local Thai communities and various hill tribes.
These groups practiced shifting cultivation, hunting, and gathering, as
was common in Thailand’s upland forests. Historical records of major
indigenous conflicts or archaeological sites specific to the park are
limited compared to other areas (such as Karen communities in southern
parks like Kaeng Krachan). However, general references note impacts from
hill tribes and “intruders” on flora and fauna in the decades
surrounding establishment.
In the post-World War II era, Thailand’s
forests faced increasing pressure from logging, agricultural expansion,
and shifting cultivation. International advisors (e.g., FAO missions in
the 1950s) highlighted the ecological value of sites like Thung Salaeng
Luang and recommended systematic protection.
Thailand’s modern
conservation framework began with the Wild Animals Reservation and
Protection Act (1960) and the National Park Act (1962), under Field
Marshal Sarit Thanarat’s government, which emphasized “modernizing”
peripheral landscapes through protected areas.
Establishment as a
National Park (1959–1963)
In 1959, the Thai Cabinet passed a
resolution (October 7) to designate the Thung Salaeng Luang forest as a
protected area—one of 15 such forests identified nationwide. It was
formally proposed for inclusion in the emerging national park system
that same year.
On January 29, 1963 (some sources cite May 27 or the
royal gazette around that period), it was declared Thailand’s third
national park after Khao Yai (1962), initially covering about 1,282 km².
Early management focused on boundary demarcation, basic patrols, and
restricting resource extraction. Infrastructure from this era includes a
notable sling (rope) bridge over the Kaek River, reportedly built around
1958 near the time of initial opening.
Area Adjustments and
Re-Gazetting (1970s)
In the early 1970s, at the request of the Thai
Army, approximately 20 km² were excised from the park (likely for
strategic or security reasons). This prompted the creation of a “new”
national park area in 1972 to formalize adjusted boundaries.
The park
was officially re-gazetted on May 27, 1975 (Royal Gazette reference),
confirming the current size of 1,262 km².
This re-establishment
stabilized its legal status under what later became the Department of
National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation (DNP).
The
Communist Insurgency Era (Late 1960s–Early 1980s)
One of the most
dramatic chapters in the park’s history occurred during Thailand’s
communist insurgency (1965–1983), led by the Communist Party of Thailand
(CPT). The park’s dense forests and remote terrain made it a key
guerrilla base, infiltration route, and sanctuary for CPT forces—similar
to the neighboring Phu Hin Rong Khla National Park, which preserves more
visible historical sites from the period.
From the late 1960s to the
early 1980s, insurgents used the area for operations, leading to
military sealing of sections of the forest, restricted civilian and even
official park access, and clashes. This period caused documented damage
to flora and fauna. Malaria was also a persistent health hazard in the
humid, remote environment.
The insurgency’s decline accelerated after
major Thai government offensives (including battles near Khao Kor in
1981–1982) and a broader amnesty program. By the early 1980s, CPT
momentum had broken, with mass defections and the effective end of armed
struggle by 1983.
This allowed the park to transition toward fuller
conservation and public use in the mid-to-late 1980s.
Post-Insurgency Development and Modern Era (1980s–Present)
With the
insurgency’s end, the DNP expanded management: trails, visitor centers,
campsites (some self-catering), and interpretive infrastructure were
developed. The park’s grasslands, waterfalls (e.g., Kaeng Sopha), caves
(including one explored to its end in 1998), and pine forests became
attractions, though visitation remains relatively low (e.g., 52,126
visitors in 2019).
Challenges have included ongoing encroachment
along highways (e.g., Phitsanulok–Lomsak), poaching, and occasional
temporary closures (e.g., 2007 for operational reasons; seasonal
closures for areas like Thung Non Son meadow during certain months). In
2021, improvements were made to an 8-km trail and Thung Non Son floral
viewing area.
Today, Thung Salaeng Luang exemplifies Thailand’s
national park system evolution—from early post-war conservation amid
development pressures, through Cold War-era political conflict, to
contemporary ecotourism and biodiversity protection. Its unique savanna
ecosystem continues to face typical pressures (habitat fragmentation,
wildlife trade), but it remains a relatively quiet, under-visited gem
compared to flagship parks like Khao Yai or Doi Inthanon.
Location and General Layout
The park spans 1,262 km²
(approximately 487 sq mi) across Phitsanulok and Phetchabun provinces,
primarily in Wang Thong, Nakhon Thai, and Noen Maprang districts
(Phitsanulok) and Khao Kho, Lom Sak, and Wang Pong districts
(Phetchabun). It lies roughly at coordinates 16°49′40″N 100°52′12″E,
straddling the highlands between Phitsanulok and Phetchabun cities and
accessible via Highway 12 (which parallels the northern edge) or Highway
21/2258 from Phetchabun.
The park divides into two main
visitor-accessible zones that highlight its geographic contrasts:
The southern/eastern section (Nong Mae Na visitor center in Khao Kho
District, Phetchabun) centers on open savannas and rolling grasslands.
The northern section (headquarters and rope bridge area in Nakhon Thai
District, Phitsanulok) features riverine valleys, waterfalls, and denser
forest along the Khek (Wang Thong) River system.
A western
limestone range runs north-south, while the bulk of the park consists of
undulating terrain interspersed with meadows.
Topography and
Geology
Elevations range from about 300 m in the lower valleys to
1,028 m at the park’s highest point, Khao Khae peak. The dominant
landforms are rolling hills and plateaus of limestone, slate, and
hardpan, creating a gently undulating landscape with occasional steep
valleys and ridges.
The western edge transitions into a more rugged
north-south limestone mountain range, contributing to karst topography.
This geology has produced numerous caves, sinkholes, and underground
streams. The most notable is Tham Phra Wang Daeng, Thailand’s longest
cave at approximately 13–13.8 km long (with ~10 km of streamway and a
depth of 131 m), located on the western side in Noen Maprang District.
Other caves include Tham Duan, Tham Dao, Tham Phra Rod-Maree, and Tham
Sai-Ngarm.
Large salt licks (natural mineral deposits) occur at Pong
Sai (northwest) and Pong Thung Phaya (southwest), important for wildlife
and reflecting underlying mineral-rich geology.
Hydrology and
Water Features
As a major watershed in the region, the park feeds
numerous streams and rivers that ultimately contribute to the Chao
Phraya basin. Key waterways include:
The Wang Thong River (also known
as the Khek River in places), which flows through the northern section.
Tributaries such as Huai Khek Yai, Huai Khek Noi, Lam Nam Thum, Khlong
Chomphu, and Khlong Wang Thong.
Prominent waterfalls showcase the
park’s hydrological diversity:
Namtok Kaeng Sopha — a dramatic
3-tiered cascade on the Wang Thong River, often called one of
Phitsanulok’s largest and most powerful during the rainy season.
Namtok Phai Si Thong (9-tiered, more recently highlighted).
Sri Dit
(or Kuhlab Daeng) — a wide, single-tier fall over a broad cliff with
year-round flow.
Smaller falls like Namtok Kaeng Song and Lanphwai
Kaeng Wang Nam Yen (a creek with hundreds of islets).
Climate
The park experiences a tropical monsoon climate. Average annual
temperature is around 25°C, with hot-season peaks often reaching 30°C or
more from March to June. Annual rainfall averages 1,700 mm, concentrated
in the rainy season (July–October). The cool, dry season
(November–February) brings lower temperatures, clearer skies, and the
park’s signature morning mists that blanket the savannas—especially
striking from October to February.
This seasonal pattern strongly
influences vegetation color (golden grasses in the dry season) and
accessibility, with mist creating ethereal, sea-of-cloud views from
ridges and viewpoints.
Vegetation and Major Landscapes
Thung
Salaeng Luang stands out for its savanna-forest mosaic, unusual in
Thailand’s typically dense tropical forests. It features a rich variety
of forest types:
Hill evergreen and tropical/dry evergreen.
Mixed deciduous and dry dipterocarp.
Coniferous (notably Pinus
merkusii stands on higher slopes, giving an unexpected alpine
character).
Interrupting these are vast open grasslands and
meadows, the park’s defining geographic feature and the reason for its
name (“Thung Salaeng Luang” refers to its prominent meadow). Major named
savannas include:
Thung Salaeng Luang — ~10 km² savanna.
Thung
Nang Phaya — ~5 km² savanna (accessible via a scenic 14 km dirt/safari
road from Nong Mae Na).
Thung Non Son — a flower-filled grassland
with pine groves.
These open areas create sweeping vistas,
support unique wildlife viewing (e.g., deer at dawn/dusk), and contrast
sharply with surrounding forest. Pine forests and wildflower meadows add
seasonal color and texture, particularly on ridges.
Plant species
The tree landscape is characterized by deciduous
forest and bushes typical of the lowlands of Southeast Asia. Smaller
areas are covered by evergreen forest. November is the main flowering
time. Here is an excerpt from the plant diversity:
Jambolana plum,
(Syzygium cumini)
Pinus merkusii, (in English: Sumatran Pine)
Baccaurea ramiflora, (in English: Burmese grape)
Toona ciliata
Hydnocarpus ilicifolia
Magnolia champaca
Hopea ferrea
Musa
balbisiana
Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb.
Numerous animal species can be found in Thung Salaeng Luang National
Park: in addition to the endangered tiger, there are, among others, the
elephant and the civet cat. Other animals are:
Cervus unicolor
Thick-billed Green Pigeon, (Treron curvirostra)
Bengal Swift,
(Cypsiurus balasiensis)
Indian roller, (Coracias benghalensis)
Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, (Culicicapa ceylonensis)
Amboina's
tortoise, (Cuora amboinensis)
Green whip snake, (Ahaetulla prasina)
Namtok Kaeng Sopha (Kaeng Sopha Waterfall) (Thai: น้ำตกแก่งโสภา) –
three-tiered waterfall in the course of Wang Thong
Thung Salaeng
Luang (ทุ่งแสลงหลวง) – grassland
Thung Nang Phaya (ทุ่งนางพญา) –
grassy landscape with a beautiful stand of pine trees
Thung Non Son
(ทุ่งโนนสน) – a meadow landscape that is largely covered with blossom
flowers in autumn (October, November).
Tham Phra Wang Daeng
(ถ้ำพระวังแดง) and Tham Duean, Tham Dao (ถ้ำเดือน, ถ้ำดาว) – caves
(stalagmites, stalactites)