Bangkok has been the capital of the Kingdom of Thailand since
1782. It has a special administrative status and is governed by
a governor. The capital has 8.249 million inhabitants (2010
census) and is by far the largest city in the country. A total
of 14.566 million people live in the Bangkok Metropolitan Region
(BMR), the largest metropolitan region in Thailand (2010
census).
The city is the political, economic and cultural
center of Thailand with universities, colleges, palaces and over
400 wats (Buddhist temples and monasteries), as well as the
country's most important transport hub. Bangkok is also home to
the Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific
(UNESCAP). With more than 17 million foreign tourists, Bangkok
was the most visited city in the world in 2013. Since then,
Bangkok has occupied one of the top two places, with either
London or Hong Kong taking the other place depending on the
counting method and year.
The time to UTC is +7 hours.
The time difference to Central Europe is +6 hours in winter and
+5 hours in summer, as there is no daylight saving time in
Thailand.
The metropolis of Bangkok is a large and sprawling city.
Administratively, it is divided into 50 Khet (เขต) (city districts). For
the purposes of this travel guide, the following division is more
appropriate:
Siam: Central business district around Siam Square
with chic shopping centers and international hotels
(roughly
corresponds to Khet Pathum Wan)
Sukhumvit: On both sides of Thanon
Sukhumvit, the southeastern arterial road of Bangkok, with many
nightlife options that are particularly popular with expats and the
local middle and upper classes: hotels, chic restaurants and nightclubs,
but also two of the well-known red-light districts.
(Khet Khlong
Toei, Watthana, Phra Khanong)
Silom: The financial and business
district along Thanon Si Lom and Sathon, which turns into one of the
city's main nightlife destinations in the evenings and at night. There
are also many hotels and most embassies here.
(Khet Bang Rak, Sathon,
Bang Kho Laem, Yan Nawa)
Rattanakosin: The historic old town with
the Grand Palace, Temple of the Emerald Buddha and Wat Pho, as well as
the newer residential and government district of Dusit and the Chinese
(Yaowarat) and Indian (Phahurat) quarters.
(Khet Phra Nakhon,
Dusit, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Samphanthawong)
Thonburi: The
districts west of the Chao Phraya River are considered quieter and more
down-to-earth. There are still a few canals here as well as the famous
"Temple of Dawn" Wat Arun.
(Khet Thon Buri, Bangkok Yai, Bangkok
Noi, Bang Phlat, Khlong San, Chom Thong, Taling Chan, Phasi Charoen,
Bang Khae)
Phahonyothin: The northern outskirts along Thanon
Phahonyothin from the Victory Monument to Don Mueang Airport. The huge
Chatuchak weekend market is located here.
(Khet Ratchathewi, Phaya
Thai, Bang Sue, Chatuchak, Lak Si, Don Mueang)
Ratchadaphisek:
The sprawling northeast of the city: Thanks to the subway line, Thanon
Ratchadaphisek has developed into an office, but also a pleasure and
entertainment mile. There are also several large university campuses,
shopping centers and extensive residential areas here.
(Khet Huai
Khwang, Din Daeng, Bang Kapi, Suan Luang)
Bangkok can seem quite confusing. There is no real center, but rather several districts that fulfill the function of an inner city, even if the area around the BTS station "Siam", where the two Skytrain lines currently cross, is increasingly seen as the center in the traditional sense. Streets sometimes change names along the way. Basically, only the main streets (Thanon) have a name, the side streets (Soi) leading off from them are numbered. Sometimes the numbering is inconsistent, however; or a side street is not known by its number, but by its - possibly unofficial - nickname. The official addresses therefore often do not get you very far. The 50 official city districts are also purely administrative in nature, but play no role in the minds of most Bangkok residents. It is better to orient yourself using city districts, well-known facilities such as sights, temples, (colleges) schools, monuments, shopping centers or mass transit stops.
There are over 400 wats (Buddhist temples) in the city. The most
important is Wat Phra Kaeo (Wat Phra Sri Rattana Satsadaram), which
houses the so-called "Emerald Buddha" and is highly revered throughout
the country.
Together with the Grand Palace, Wat Pho (Wat Phra
Chetuphon), the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok, and Wat Mahathat,
which houses one of the major Buddhist universities
(Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University) in Southeast Asia, Wat Phra
Kaeo on Rattanakosin Island forms the historic center of the city.
Bangkok is also home to the National Museum of Thailand, the
National Gallery, the National Library and the National Theater.
The National Theater in Bangkok is located on the site of the old
Wang Na, the palace of the Second King of Thailand (the Uparat) on
Thanon Na Phra That. In front of the east entrance is a statue of Phra
Pinklao, who was appointed as the penultimate Uparat by King Mongkut as
his younger brother.
The building was rebuilt in its current form
between 1960 and 1965 after a fire: the T-shaped building shows a
mixture of Thai and Western architecture. Above the main entrance to the
theater is a relief depicting the patron god of the arts, the Hindu god
Ganesha. Performances of classical Thai dance take place in the
building. The hall has an original trapezoid shape. Renovation work was
carried out in 2006.
The royal theater Sala Chalermkrung
(สาลา-เฉลิม-กรุง) was a gift from King Prajadhipok (Rama VII) to his
people and was opened on July 2, 1933 for the 150th Rattanakosin
anniversary. It was the first theater in Thailand with air conditioning
and also the first cinema in Thailand. Since 2006, the Thai mask dance
Khon, which contains scenes from the epic Ramakien, has been performed
here regularly.
In the newly built Joe Louis Theater on the
grounds of the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, the Ramayana epic is performed as
a Thai puppet show. The traditional figures are introduced before the
performance. Three artists perform with colorful, elaborately
embroidered rod puppets that have been made by the head of the family,
Sakorn Yanghiawsod (Joe Louis), since the 1950s.
The National Museum houses a remarkable collection of artifacts and
art objects from the Thai Bronze Age to the most recent times. The
entire complex consists of historical buildings in Thai style, as it was
the palace of Uparat, the so-called Vice-King of Siam, until the time of
King Chulalongkorn the Wang Na.
The boathouses on Khlong Bangkok
Noi, a branch of the National Museum directly behind the Pinklao Bridge,
house the royal barges. These artistically carved and decorated barges
are only used in the royal barge procession.
The National Gallery
Museum is opposite the National Museum on Thanon Chao Fa. Old and
contemporary paintings by important Thai artists are exhibited there.
Jim Thompson's Thai house on Khlong Saen Saep in Soi Kasemsan 2, a
side street off Rama I Street (Thanon Phra Ram 1), is an ensemble of
several wooden houses in the old Thai style. It was created by Jim
Thompson (* 1906), the legendary man who revived the Thai silk industry
after the end of the Second World War and made it world famous, and who
disappeared without a trace in 1967 under mysterious circumstances.
Today the complex is a museum where Thompson's exquisite collection of
Asian art can be seen. The Bangkok Art and Culture Center is just 500
meters away on foot.
The Wang Suan Pakkad (Suan Pakkad Palace) is
a complex of eight Thai houses in the middle of a garden on Thanon Si
Ayutthaya. Formerly the residence of Prince Chumbhot, it houses an
important collection of Asian antiques. Particularly worth seeing is the
"lacquer pavilion", a small wooden pavilion from the time of King Narai
of Ayutthaya (1656-1688), which served as a kuti in Wat Ban Kling near
Ayutthaya until 1959. It is decorated with murals in the Lai-Rot-Nam
technique (black gold lacquer) from the late Ayutthaya or early
Rattanakosin period.
The Bangkok Doll Museum in Soi Ratchataphan
behind Thanon Ratchaprarop exhibits dolls made locally. In Ban
Kamthieng, a 200-year-old Thai house in the Lan Na Thai style in the
garden of the Siam Society in Thanon Asok Montri, a collection of tools
used by Thai farmers and fishermen can be seen. The Queen's Gallery on
Thanon Ratchadamnoen near the Phan Fa Lilat Bridge regularly shows
exhibitions of well-known and lesser-known contemporary Thai artists on
four floors. These exhibitions are often sponsored by Queen Sirikit.
The Siam Museum shows exhibits on the topics of Thai history and
Thai lifestyle.
This most important landmark in Bangkok on the banks of the Chao
Phraya consists of over 100 buildings in various architectural styles.
The entire site, with an area of more than 200,000 square meters, is
surrounded by a 1.9-kilometer-long battlemented wall.
A special
gem of this ensemble is the Wat Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Emerald
Buddha), a masterpiece of Thai art. Among its treasures is the Emerald
Buddha, the most revered Buddha statue in Thailand.
Other
attractions of this large palace are the Amarin Winichai Throne Hall,
the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall and the large Chakri Palace. Others
include the "Royal Thai Decorations and Coin Pavilion" with a permanent
exhibition of royal regalia, precious items, medals and coins as well as
other means of payment that were in circulation at the beginning of the
11th century.
In front of the Grand Palace is the Sanam Luang
(also called Phramen Ground, or "Phra Meru" field), a spacious parade
ground surrounded by tamarind trees that has been used since Bangkok was
founded for the cremation of members of the royal family, but also for
other public ceremonies, such as the royal ploughing ceremony in May.
Several magnificent buildings are grouped around the square: the Fine
Arts Department with the Silpakorn Art Academy, Thammasat University and
the National Museum, the National Theater, the Ministry of Justice and
the Lak Müang (City Pillar), the spiritual center of the historic city.
Wat Pho (“Temple of the Reclining Buddha”) is a sprawling temple
complex directly south of the Grand Palace. There you will find a huge
statue of a reclining Buddha covered in gold leaf – 46 meters long and
15 meters high – the soles of his feet are inlaid with mother of pearl.
Wat Pho was once the country's first public educational institution. The
temple is also famous for its traditional Thai massage.
Wat Arun
(“The Temple of Dawn”) is an impressive temple building and the landmark
of Bangkok on the other bank of the Chao Praya, opposite the Grand
Palace. Its pagoda, which rises to a height of around 75 meters, is
covered with porcelain tiles and sparkles in the sun.
Wat Traimit
(“Temple of the Golden Buddha”) is a sanctuary at the end of Thanon
Yaowarat in “Chinatown”, near Bangkok's main train station Hualampong.
There is a three-meter-high Buddha made of five and a half tons of solid
gold.
Wat Benchamabophit ("Marble Temple") is located on Thanon
Si Ayutthaya, next to the Chitralada Palace, the residence of King
Bhumibol Adulyadej. This is one of Bangkok's newest temples. It was
built from white Carrara marble during the reign of King Rama V
(1868-1910). Elements of European sacred architecture are striking, such
as colorful glass windows. In the corridor (Phra Rabieng) around the
Ubosot there is a collection of bronze Buddha statues from various Thai
art styles.
Wat Suthat on Thanon Bamrung Mueang is known for its
exquisite 19th century murals, which were restored on the occasion of
the 200th anniversary of the city of Bangkok with financial help from
the Federal Republic of Germany. The giant swing in front of the temple,
called Sao Ching Cha, was used for Brahman rituals a long time ago. Some
shops in the area sell Buddhist devotional items.
Wat Saket ("The
Golden Mountain"): The most interesting thing about this temple is the
so-called "Golden Mountain" dating from the 19th century. The golden
chedi, which crowns an artificial hill with its 87-meter-high gilded
pagoda, houses Buddha relics. From there you can visit the old town of
Bangkok.
Other important temples in central Bangkok are Wat
Mahathat on the edge of Sanam Luang Field, which houses the main
university of the Mahanikai Buddhist faith, the
Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University, Wat Ratchanatdaram on Thanon
Ratchadamnoen behind the Rama III Memorial Park with its Loha Prasat (a
pagoda called the "iron palace" because of its building material), Wat
Ratchabopit, a temple on Thanon Ban Mo with a mixture of local and
European style elements, and Wat Intharawihan on Thanon Wisutkasat with
a 32-meter-high standing Buddha figure.
For a comprehensive
overview, see also List of Buddhist temples in Bangkok.
Lak Müang (City Pillar Shrine), Bangkok's "city shrine", is located
on the southeast corner of Sanam Luang Field. It houses the foundation
stone of Bangkok laid by King Rama I (1736-1809) - actually a pillar.
This has a reputation for granting wishes. All day long, believers pay
dancers to enchant the city spirits who live there with their dances and
thus bargain for health and prosperity.
The Wimanmek Palace (the
heavenly palace) - it is the largest teak building in the world - is
located behind the parliament. It has 81 rooms, halls and anterooms on
three floors and is furnished with memorabilia of the royal family from
the end of the 19th century. The teak is covered with gold leaf in many
places.
Also worth seeing are the Chao Phraya and the still
preserved canals of Bangkok (khlongs), which ran through large parts of
the city until the middle of the 20th century. Many of these old traffic
routes were filled in to build roads. Together with the Chao Phraya, the
"River of Kings", they show vividly how life and activity on the water
has essentially remained largely unchanged for several centuries.
Sights on the Chao Phraya include the Phra Phutthayotfa Bridge
(colloquially Thai "Saphan Phut", English "Memorial Bridge"), the first
bridge between Bangkok and Thonburi, inaugurated on the 150th
anniversary of the founding of Bangkok, and the Rama VIII Bridge, which
was only inaugurated in May 2002.
Since 1941, the Victory
Monument has stood on what is now a very busy square with a roundabout.
Lumphini Park is the largest park in the center of Bangkok. "Tai Chi"
exercises are practiced there every morning. The park is walled and
contains an artificial lake that can be used for rowing and pedal boats
that can be rented. The 576,000 square meter Lumphini Park was created
in the 1920s by King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) on royal land.
In the
Dusit Zoo, Bangkok's oldest zoological garden next to the Royal Plaza,
most of the well-known African and Asian mammals and birds and many
other animal species can be seen. The area has cafes and an artificial
lake with areas for recreation. The area is crossed by two canals, one
of which is the venue for a famous rafting competition in the autumn on
the occasion of the Loi Krathong festival.
Also worth seeing is
King Rama IX Park, an approximately 80 hectare park and botanical garden
in Soi 103 (Udomsuk) on Thanon Sukhumvit. It was opened in 1987 on the
occasion of King Bhumibol Adulyadej's 60th birthday.
The
Rommaninat Park on Thanon Maha Chai was Bangkok's city prison until the
mid-1990s. The city administration relocated the prison outside the city
gates and turned it into a beautiful park. It offers many residents an
evening opportunity for sport and recreation.
In two large and several small stadiums spread across Bangkok, you
can watch the Thai national sport Muay Thai, better known as Thai
boxing, with all its rituals. Both Lumpini and Ratchadamnoen stadiums
host some of the country's best fighters. The events take place in both
stadiums throughout the week. Aside from the fight in the ring, there is
additional entertainment in the form of betting on the outcome of the
fights and musical accompaniment played by a traditional ensemble (Pi
Phat) based on the Pi or "Thai oboe".
Another popular sport is
the traditional "Sepak Takraw". This is a type of ball game in which a
woven rattan ball has to be kept in the air for as long as possible
using all parts of the body - except the hands. Professional teams play
against each other on the Sanam Luang field in front of the Grand Palace
in Bangkok. Another version of this sport is net takro, which is played
in the National Stadium and the Hua Mak Stadium.
Another
traditional sport in Thailand is kite fighting, in which a symbolic
battle of the sexes takes place in the air. The large "male" kites,
called Chula, fight against the smaller, "female" Pakpao. The huge
Chulas must be controlled by a whole team of men. These colorful events
take place in March and April on the Sanam Luang field because the
necessary wind comes up every afternoon.
In addition to the
traditional sports typical of Thailand, football is also played in
Bangkok. The Thai national football team plays almost all of its home
games in the Rajamangala National Stadium. There are also five football
clubs that play in the country's highest league, the Thai Premier
League.
Horse racing is also very popular in Bangkok. Betting on
the outcome of the races is legal. There are even two horse racing
tracks in Bangkok: the "Royal Bangkok Sports Club" and the "Royal Turf
Club of Thailand".
In Bangkok there are restaurants for practically every taste. All the
important European, Middle Eastern and Far Eastern flavours are
represented in many gourmet restaurants. The areas where tourists mainly
stay have the highest density of restaurants, especially Thanon
Sukhumvit with its numerous side streets. Travel guides claim that in
these areas you are never more than 50 metres away from the next
restaurant.
Nevertheless, there are a few special features in
Bangkok worth mentioning:
Food stalls, street stalls, market stalls:
At the numerous food stalls and street stalls that are practically "on
every street corner" in Bangkok, you can eat your fill at an incredibly
low price by European standards, but you also have to make compromises
in terms of equipment and hygiene. The food from these open-air kitchens
has become an integral part of the daily life of many Thais in the big
cities. Housewives cook less and less themselves; they are even jokingly
called "plastic bag housewives" because they carry the food from the
food stalls home in plastic bags. Just 100 years ago, when Bangkok was
still the "Venice of the East", snacks, noodle soups or full meals were
mainly sold from small boats. Today, these stalls can consist of two
rattan baskets carried over the shoulder, they can be handcarts,
motorcycle sidecars or even simple tables placed on the side of the
road.
Food courts, food centers: A more or less large number of food
stalls in a hygienic environment - usually in the basement or on the top
floor of large shopping centers and supermarkets. Each food stall makes
its own specialty. Payment is not made with cash, but with "coupons" in
various denominations that can be bought beforehand at the entrance;
unused coupons can be returned. Increasingly, rechargeable plastic cards
are being used instead of coupons.
Riverside: Many long-established
restaurants in Bangkok are located on the banks of the Chao Phraya. Some
terraces are right on the bank, others are built on stilts in the river.
The food is traditionally Thai.
Hotel Dining: The city's major hotels
regularly try to outdo each other by offering special deals or "all you
can eat" buffet meals. Daily newspapers have pages of information about
special events or special prices in hotel restaurants.
English
afternoon tea: Some hotels, most notably the Oriental Hotel in the
renovated Author's Wing, also offer English afternoon tea. This is less
of an event to fill you up, but more of a social way to pass the hot
afternoon until the next dinner, just as the Western aristocracy did 100
years ago.
Dinner Cruises: Several hotels and restaurants offer
cruises with restaurant service. The selection ranges from the large
"Riverside 2", a nearly 100-meter-long, modern riverboat with
restaurants for over 1,000 people, to the "Mahora", an antique wooden
rice barge that has been converted into a floating restaurant for
smaller groups. The trip takes about two to three hours, goes part way
down the river, then back to the starting point. Live music is offered
for entertainment, from loud disco music on the large ships to small
ensembles performing traditional music.
Large shopping centers are concentrated mainly in the lower Thanon
Sukhumvit (Sukhumvit Street), Thanon Silom (Silom Street) and especially
at Siam Square. Here, MBK, Siam Discovery Center, Zen, Central World and
Siam Paragon are located next to each other, which, in addition to all
imaginable luxury brands such as Ferrari and Lamborghini, also has a
huge walk-in aquarium.
The shopping centers house shops, offices,
restaurants, cinemas and department stores. The shopping palaces, which
are among the largest in the world, are located on the arterial roads
outside the center, for example Seacon Square and Seri Center in Thanon
Srinagarindra far east of the city center, as well as the Future Park in
the Rangsit district, north of Don Mueang airport.
In the city of
Bangkok, which has a population of one million, some markets with a
rural character have survived, where fresh fruit and vegetables, fish
and meat are sold. The legendary floating markets, however, only exist
outside the metropolis. Most of Bangkok's markets sell mainly textiles
and drugstore items, but also plants and souvenirs.
Silver and
niello goods, dolls and masks, wood carvings, rubbings of temple reliefs
on thin rice paper, bronze items, cotton textiles, parasols, fans and
much more are offered cheaply in Bangkok. The trade in antiques has been
banned in Thailand since 1989. As a result, an entire industry lives off
the production of fakes that are sometimes deceptively real.
Chinese New Year (next January 29, 2025 or February 17, 2026): is
celebrated by many Bangkokians of Chinese descent, especially in
Chinatown, of course. More in the Rattanakosin district.
Kite flying:
kite season is between the end of February and the beginning of May.
Kite flying has a long tradition in Thailand and is practiced in many
parks in Bangkok. There is also a special festival or kite competition
on Sanam Luang. More in the Rattanakosin district.
Songkran (April 13
to 15): the Thai New Year is also celebrated in Bangkok. At the hottest
time of the year there are parades where a lot of water is sprayed and
real water fights. The celebrations are particularly excessive on Khao
San Road and in Patpong, where show stages are set up.
Coronation Day
of the King: May 4. Anniversary of the coronation ceremony of King Rama
X (King Maha Vajiralongkorn) on May 4, 2019.
Ceremony of the first
ploughing (in May, exact date varies): royal and Brahman ceremony in
which the farmers are blessed for the beginning of the rice-growing
season. More in the Rattanakosin district.
Wisakha Bucha (full moon
in May or early June): most important Buddhist holiday; there are
processions with candles or lights, the temples are specially decorated.
Particularly impressive at Sanam Luang, Wat Saket ("Golden Mountain") or
Phutthamonthon, the large Buddhist park west of Bangkok. Bars and pubs
are closed, sale and serving of alcohol is prohibited.
Queen's
birthday June 3rd. Birthday of Queen Suthida Vajiralongkorn.
King's
birthday July 28th. Birthday of King Maha Vajiralongkorn
Birthday of
the Queen Mother and Mother's Day (12 August): Main streets are
decorated weeks in advance with pictures of the Queen and light blue
flags. On the day itself there are parades, large public gatherings and
a large fireworks display.
Loi Krathong (full moon in November): The
festival of lights in honour of the river goddess is celebrated on the
river and the khlongs in Bangkok, as everywhere in Thailand. Rafts made
of banana wood and leaves decorated with flowers and candles are
launched and people can make a wish.
Father's Day (birthday of the
late King Bhumibol Adulyadej) and National Day: 5 December. State of
emergency in Bangkok, and not just because of the birthday
Due to the air and road traffic, Bangkok is not actually an ideal
city for cycling. However, there are providers who take their
participants on remote, less busy paths, through green and sometimes
almost rural areas of Bangkok and the surrounding area. This way you can
get to know the metropolis from a completely different perspective.
1 Grasshopper Adventures, 57 Ratchadamnoen Rd (between the Democracy
Monument and the Kok Wua intersection). Tours with Merida mountain
bikes, small groups (max. 6-10 participants), low to medium difficulty
level; tours from 13 to 35 km: half-day history and food tour, Bangkok
at night or historical Bangkok; full-day canal tour by boat and bike or
into the rural surroundings of Bangkok; multi-day tours through Thailand
also available. Price: half-day tour from approx. 1200฿ per person,
reduced for children and young people.
2 Co Van Kessel Bangkok Tours,
River City Shopping Center, 23 Charoen Krung Road, Soi 24. Tel.:
(0)2-6397351. 3-hour bike tours (also at night) 12-14 kilometers; 5-hour
combined tours with boat and bike; all-day combined tours with train,
boat and bike. Price: 3-hour bike tour 950฿ per person.
3 Follow Me
Bike Tours, 126 Soi Sathon 9. Small groups (max. 6-8 participants);
various tours (4 to 9½ hours; 22 to 25km driving distance), some
combined with tuk-tuk, boat ride or walking: old town, jungle, evening,
local life, special food or "complete"; tours can also be booked
"privately" in some cases, i.e. only with the people you want to go
with. Price: from 1800฿ per person. P.
4 ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist,
10/5-7, Soi Aree, Sukhumvit Road Soi 26. Tel.: (0)81-8129641. Price:
half-day tour 1300฿ p.p.
Muay Thai
Muay Thai or Thai boxing is
the national sport of Thailand. There are several stadiums where you can
watch a fight.
5 Lumpinee Boxing Stadium (Lumphini Stadium), 6
Ramintra Road, Anusawari, Bang Khen, Bangkok (next to Royal Thai Army
Golf Course). The most famous stadium with the highest-ranking fights is
no longer located in the eponymous Lumphini Park, but has moved to the
northern edge of the city. – (BTS) to Saphan Khwai, then (bus 26) to
Talat Lat Pla Khao Open: Fights usually Tues and Fri 6 p.m.; Sat 4 and 9
p.m. Price: Standing room from 200฿.
6 Rajadamnern Stadium
(Ratchadamnoen Stadium), Th. Ratchadamnoen Nok, Pom Prap Sattru Phai,.
Old and well-known stadium near the old town and Khao San Road. – (Bus)
to Sanam Muai Ratchadamoen Open: Fights usually Mon, Wed, Thu, Sun at
6.30 p.m.
Restaurant ships
A highlight for Bangkok travelers is the evening
trip on a restaurant ship. While you enjoy your meal, you are boated a
little way down the Chao Phraya River and back again and can admire the
sights on the banks illuminated in the evening.
River-side. 2½
hour trip. With an early reservation you can go for 100฿ (approx. 2
euros). If the weather is bad, you can go to the air-conditioned
restaurant below deck. Otherwise, the seats on deck are taken quite
early. Unfortunately, reservations for the seats are not possible. It is
best to board early (6 p.m.). The food itself is rather poor in terms of
value for money. Towards the end of the trip there is even a loud disco
hour below deck.
Wan Fah. also has a restaurant ship, and the company
also organizes trips on the Khlongs with smaller ships during the day.
Apsara Dinner Cruise by Banyan Tree. Restaurant ship of the noble Banyan
Tree Hotel. Open: 8 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Another pleasure is a trip on a small canal boat. While the many
small canals that once earned Bangkok the nickname "Venice of the East"
have largely been filled in to make way for roads in the modern part of
the metropolis, many of them are still preserved on the west side of the
city. This way you can get to know traditional Bangkok, which has hardly
been developed by tourism and international business, from the water
side.
7 Pandan Tour (meeting point: Wutthakat BTS station). Tour
through the canals (khlongs) on a small traditional teak boat. Price:
day tour (6 ½ hours) 2295฿ including meal.
8 Asiatique The Riverfront (เอเชียทีค เดอะริเวอร์ฟรอนต์). Leisure
complex opened in 2012 on the banks of the Chao Phraya, with
restaurants, shops and a Ferris wheel. Around 1900, the site was a pier
for the teak trade of the Danish Østasiatiske Kompagni. The current
commercial buildings imitate the look of the old harbor warehouses. The
complex is particularly popular for strolling in the evenings. — 2194
Th. Charoen Krung — (Express boat) to Wat Ratchasingkhon or own shuttle
boat to Asiatique from Sathon pier (BTS Saphan Taksin)
9 Siam Park
City (สยามอะเมซิ่งพาร์ค). This is an amusement park in Min Buri. You pay
฿ 900 for a VIP ticket, which includes a buffet in the SALLY restaurant
in the entrance area and access to all rides and the attached water
park. Swimwear is required in the water park, which you can also rent if
necessary. Lockers are also available, but you either have to bring your
own locks or buy them on site for 120 baht. Siam Park is no longer the
newest park (it has been in operation since 1980), and in some places it
could use a little cosmetic work, but the rides look good and are fun.
Open: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
10 Safari World (ซาฟารีเวิลด์; on the
north-eastern outskirts of the city, a good 20 km outside the center).
Animal and amusement park that consists of two parts. In the actual
Safari Park there are giraffes, zebras, lions, tigers that seem to move
freely around the grounds, like on a safari, through which visitors
travel in a bus or car. There are also various exotic birds; elephants
and orangutans that perform tricks; you can pose with orangutans and
possibly with tiger cubs. In the Marine Park, on the other hand, dolphin
and seal shows are shown. There are several restaurants on site. – Hard
to reach by public transport (take the BTS to Mo Chit, then continue
with bus 26 or 96 to Fashion Island Shopping Mall, from there take a
minibus or taxi). Instead, you can book a complete trip to Safari World
with tour operators, including pick-up from your hotel. From ฿ 1350, so
only a little more than the actual entrance fee. Open: daily 9 a.m. to 5
p.m. Price: entrance fee for both parks ฿ 1200, children ฿ 900; Safari
Park only ฿ 800 (children 700) (as of May 2015); less for Thais. Boat
trip (“Jungle Safari”) costs extra.
Suvarnabhumi Airport
The international airport Suvarnabhumi
Airport (IATA: BKK) is located about 30km east of Bangkok city center.
Suvarnabhumi (สุวรรณภูมิ, RTGS: Suwannaphum) is pronounced suwannapuum
(IPA: [sùwannápʰuːm]). The name Suvarnabhumi means "Golden Land" and was
chosen by Thailand's king. The airport is used for the vast majority of
international and some domestic flights. There is only one terminal.
However, due to its size, long distances often have to be covered here
too.
There are several direct flights daily from Germany, Austria
and Switzerland. The flight time from Germany to Bangkok is about 11-12
hours. Lufthansa flies non-stop from Frankfurt am Main and Munich to
Bangkok in the late evening. THAI flies several times a week to and from
Frankfurt am Main, Munich and Zurich. SWISS and Austrian Airlines also
offer direct connections from Zurich and Vienna several times a week.
EVA Air also flies from Vienna directly to Bangkok as a stopover on the
way to Taipei. The previous connection with Eurowings has been
discontinued.
There are a large number of connecting flights to
BKK. One is via neighboring European countries, whose airlines want to
make additional use of the direct connections from their hubs. And the
other is offers from mainly Arab (state) airlines with a change in Doha
with Qatar Airways, Abu Dhabi or Dubai, for example.
Getting
there
Airport Rail Link: runs from 6 a.m. to midnight from
Suvarnabhumi to Phaya Thai or just Makkasan. The Cityline (45฿) takes
around 30 minutes with stops at all stations and runs at least every 20
minutes. The express connections have unfortunately not been available
since 2015. At the Phaya Thai station you can easily transfer to the
Skytrain. At Makkasan station you can change to the metro, but there is
a 400-meter walk between the stations of the two systems.
Taxis
are available one level below the arrivals level. The route is marked
with a "Public Taxi" sign. A "Public Taxi Counter Service" is offered
there. For a fee, the destination is written down in Thai, and the
smaller section of this two-part note is given to the driver. The driver
charges the 50฿ fee in addition to the price of the taximeter. You
should let them use the expressway on the journey; some drivers ask for
it. The toll (45 and 25฿) is also in addition to the taximeter. Or you
can give the money to the driver at the toll booth to pay. Make sure you
give back any change. Depending on your destination in Bangkok, the
journey will take around 45-60 minutes (without traffic jams) and cost
250-400฿ (plus toll).
It is possible that you will be offered a
taxi in the arrivals area. These are often touts. The trips arranged can
easily be double the usual fare. There is usually no reason to accept
these offers.
Bus
If you don't have a lot of luggage with you,
you can also use the inexpensive public transport (i.e. bus).
Since mid-2017 there has been a shuttle bus S1 from Suvarnabhumi Airport
to Khao San Road. This starts from the ground floor, Portal 7, and costs
60 ฿. The journey takes 30-90 minutes, depending on the traffic
situation.
The other buses leave from the bus terminal. The bus
terminal is not directly at the airport terminal, however! There is,
however, a free shuttle bus to the bus terminal.
Detailed
information at bangkokairportonline.
Here are just a few connections:
Bus number 551: Suvarnabhumi Airport - Victory Monument (via Expressway)
Bus number 552: Suvarnabhumi Airport - On Nut BTS station
Bus number
553: Suvarnabhumi Airport - Samut Prakan
Bus number 554: Suvarnabhumi
Airport - Don Mueang Airport (via Expressway)
Long-distance buses
have a stop in front of the terminal. Several connections are offered,
including to Pattaya and Jomtien, e.g. the 389 Airport Pattaya Bus. This
bus line runs every hour on the hour from the airport (Level 1, Gate 8)
directly to the office in Jomtien and vice versa. The same company also
runs to the seaside resort of Hua Hin.
Don Mueang Airport
The
second airport in Bangkok is Don Mueang Airport (IATA: DMK), which is
located 24 kilometers north of Bangkok city center. This airport is the
former international airport of Bangkok, which was replaced by
Suvarnabhumi as the international airport in 2006. Due to capacity
problems and probably higher fees in Suvarnabhumi, several airlines have
moved their flights back to Don Mueang, including Air Asia, Nok Air and
Orient Thai.
If you have booked a connection with a change
between the two airports, the transfer time should not be
underestimated. Recommendations range from a very optimistic 1½ to a
realistic four hours. There is an hourly bus line (555) that connects
both airports. If you have a plane ticket for a flight to Suvarnabhumi,
you can use a shuttle bus there for free.
Regular buses connect
Don Mueang with the city center. Lines 10 and 29 run via Victory
Monument.
The state railway company's train station of the same
name is located in the immediate vicinity of the airport. There are
constant trains to Ayutthaya (1/2 hour journey time, 11฿) and Bangkok's
main train station Hua Lamphong (1 hour journey time, 5฿). In Bang Sue
(Junction) there is a connection to the metro (1/2 hour). The transfer
from the airport to Don Mueang station is near Gate 6 on the ground
floor of Terminal 2 (International Flights). The train station is on the
way to the Amari Hotel, which is clearly signposted.
U-Tapao
Airport
U-Tapao International Airport (ท่าอากาศยานนานาชาติอู่ตะเภา,
IATA: UTP; the train station is Ban Phlu Ta Luang on the Chachoengsao
Junction–Sattahip railway line. High-speed train with the new Bangkok
Central Station and the two airfields there under construction).
Originally a naval airfield, with a second terminal since 2019. Serves
the internationally known seaside resort of Pattaya. Further expansion
ongoing. Domestic flights as well as increasingly direct (low-cost)
flights from Siberia and China.
Trains run from Hua Lamphong station to all regions of Thailand.
Prices are extremely low (e.g. 270฿ to Chiang Mai), but the trains are
also very slow. Everything is very honest, and the staff at the counters
are very helpful. There is an information desk and a small, separate
ticket office for foreign tourists. Compared to Germany, very few trains
run, and since January 2023 only regional trains have been running.
Outside the station - past the taxi stands - is the entrance to the
underground (MRT), which has one of its terminuses here. When you come
from the trains and enter the large station hall, immediately turn right
to leave the building through the entrance and immediately left again,
then you are at the MRT entrance. But there are also corresponding
signs.
Operations in Hua Lamphong have been restricted since 2021
and will be completely relocated to the new main station by 2024.
Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station
(สถานีกลางกรุงเทพอภิวัฒน์; Bang Sue MRT and 2 SRT Red Lines. Pedestrian
bridge to the "Mo Chit 2" bus station = Chatuchak). Four levels:
basement for the subway, ground floor for the air-conditioned station
hall, E1 for standard meter-gauge trains with 12 platforms; E2 with 10
standard gauge platforms.
There are various bus stations in Bangkok from which long-distance
buses depart in different directions. The three large ones are generally
known for the main directions:
the eastern bus station is called
Ekkamai. Buses to the east coast (e.g. Pattaya, Rayong, Ko Samet, Ko
Chang) leave from here. It is located directly at the Ekkamai station on
the BTS Sukhumvit Line (E7)(Exit 2).
The northern bus station is
called Mo Chit 2 or Chatuchak. Most buses to the north, northeast and
north central region leave from here. Despite the same name, the BTS Mo
Chit station is a half-hour walk away, as the extensive (and fenced-in)
Queen Sirikit Park lies in between! It is better to get there by taxi or
bus.
Buses to the southern region leave from the Sai Tai bus station.
It is located far outside the center on the western edge of the city and
can only be reached by taxi or city bus.
A bus company can also
have its own terminals, such as Nakhonchai Air (NCA) another 2
kilometers north of the Mo Chit bus station.
The port of Bangkok, called Khlong Toei, is located near the mouth of the Chao Phraya River and is mainly used as a cargo port. Larger ships, especially the large cruise ships, head for the deep-sea port in Laem Chabang. This is located about 120 km southeast of Bangkok and is not connected to the public transport network.
The fastest way to get from A to B in Bangkok, especially during the morning and evening rush hour, is to use the non-road-based transport systems Metro (known everywhere as MRT) as an underground railway and Skytrain (BTS) as an elevated railway above road traffic. The systems are similarly constructed, but belong to different companies. Accordingly, purchased tickets are only valid in the respective system.
The oldest rail system is the Skytrain (BTS), which runs at a height
of around 10 meters on a concrete track that was built on stilts. So far
there are almost 52km of track for the two lines: the light green
Sukhumvit line and the dark green Silom line, which cross at the Siam
stop. At this station, the tracks of the two lines are divided
vertically and each stop next to each other, so that a level transfer is
possible depending on the desired route. The lines coming from the east
and south and continuing west and north stop on the third (top) level
above street level, and the trains going in the opposite direction of
both lines stop on the second level below above street level. The first
level above street level serves as a distribution and pedestrian level.
Single tickets (in the form of magnetic stripe cards in credit card
format) are sold at machines and counters in every station. It should be
noted that most machines (narrow wall-mounted devices) in the BTS system
only accept coins, but there are a few machines (wider than the
aforementioned devices and with touchscreens) that accept notes,
although not at every station; however, it is usually easy to buy the
desired ticket at the counter or change money there, even without
language skills (irritatingly, you often don't get the ticket directly
at the counter, but only coins, which you then use to go to the
machine). Before buying tickets, which are available in 8 different
price levels (2023: 17-47 ฿), you have to find out which price level to
buy for the desired connection on a route map displayed several times at
each station. The corresponding fare is noted on the route map at each
stop. In contrast to the price level designations we are used to, the
price levels here are named after their fare (e.g. "17" for 17฿ fare).
For visitors who want to travel to several stops in the course of a
day, day tickets for 150฿/person (as of 06/2023) can be a cheap
alternative, as one route can cost up to 50฿. These season tickets are
not available from the machines, but only at the counter.
The
ticket check takes place at automatic barriers before entering the
platform. Single tickets are inserted into the slot at the front of the
barrier (make sure that the direction is correct, as marked with an
arrow on the ticket!) and then issued again at the top of the barrier.
The barrier itself only opens after the ticket has been removed. Season
tickets, on the other hand, are held on an RFID reader at the top of the
barrier. When leaving the system at the destination stop, the single
ticket is pushed back into the barrier and retained there; with season
tickets, the procedure is the same as at the starting stop.
The MRT now also has two lines. The blue line is over 20km long and
runs from Tha Phra (ท่าพระ; transfer option to the southern branch;
Talat Phlu market) via Tao Poon to the main station Hua Lampong to Lak
Song (หลักสอง; shopping center The Mall Bang Khae).
The purple
line, which was only completed in 2016, runs largely outside the city of
Bangkok and is unlikely to be of interest to most visitors. It starts in
Khlong Bang Phai (คลองบางไผ่). It ends in Tao Poon (เตาปูน), where you
can change to the blue line.
There are three transfer points
between the subway and the skytrain: at the
BTS Asok and MRT
Sukhumvit stops, at
BTS Sala Daeng and MRT Si Lom and at
BTS Mo
Chit and MRT Chatuchak Park
Tickets for the MRT can be purchased
at counters and machines in every station. Prices depend on the number
of stops traveled through and will be 15-40 ฿ for a single journey in
2023. Children pay half. The machines display a route map on a
touchscreen, on which you can select your desired destination stop. The
user interface of these machines can be switched to English. You can pay
with coins and banknotes up to 100฿. RFID plastic chips are issued as
tickets (these end up in the coin dispenser tray together with any
change) - these are held up to the reader on the platform barrier when
entering the system and thrown into the platform barrier when leaving
the system at the destination stop.
When entering the MRT
stations, you always have to go through a metal detector. Although there
are additional security personnel at the detectors and the detectors go
off on practically every passenger, there is usually no follow-up check,
especially no frisking.
The monorail on the yellow line (“yellow line”) connects along
Srinakarin Road and Lat Phrao Rd. 23 stops via Lat Phrao (YL01; “blue
line” connection) via Hua Mak (หแขวงหัวหมาก) (YL11; airport railway)
with Samrong (สำโรง) (YL23; “green line” connection). An extension of
Lat Phrao is under construction in 2023.
Prices are on a par with
the Skytrain.
Other rail-based services
The system is
complemented by the Airport Rail Link, which connects the city with
Bangkok-Suvarnabhumi Airport. There are transfer options at the Phaya
Thai stations with the BTS Phaya Thai, in Hua Mak with the monorail
(“yellow line”) and Makkasan with the MRT Phetchaburi (สถานีเพชรบุรี).
Network map
The network map for both companies can be found here.
Bangkok has a well-developed infrastructure of public transport
buses. The fare depends on the type of bus. There are essentially the
following types of buses in Bangkok:
non-air-conditioned red buses
with the inscription รถเมล์ฟรี จากภาษีประชาชน, "Free bus from people's
tax money"
non-air-conditioned red buses: 8 Baht fixed price
non-air-conditioned blue buses: 10 Baht fixed price
non-air-conditioned orange buses: 10 Baht fixed price
air-conditioned
yellow buses: 14 Baht
air-conditioned orange buses (running on
natural gas): 15-25 Baht
Fare is always paid to the conductor.
The route number of the buses can be found on the front of the
buses, together with the final stop and often also the stops served,
both in Thai characters. For some bus lines (e.g. 15, 47) the
destination is also written in English.
There is no fixed
timetable; an overview of all bus lines in Bangkok and their routes is
available on the official website of the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority
(BMTA) as well as on the website https://transitbangkok.com/ (English),
as well as an online route planner. Google Maps now also takes local
buses into account when planning routes, although this is not always
reliable.
Most bus stops in Bangkok are marked with a blue sign
with a white bus on it. The white sign below lists all the lines that
stop there. If no one gets off, buses usually only stop if you make this
clear with a hand signal.
Taxi travel in Bangkok is very cheap compared to European cities.
Taxis are easy to get around the clock in almost every corner of the
city. They come in a variety of colors (the color is irrelevant), but
they all have a light bar on the roof that says "taxi meter." You should
only use official taxis like these.
There is a red light
indicator in the windshield on the passenger side that is connected to
the taximeter. If the text (ว่าง, pronounced wâang, meaning "free")
lights up, the taxi is free. Taximeters are usually used in Bangkok.
When the taximeter is switched on, a red "35" lights up in the
center console. The kilometers driven are shown in a slightly smaller
size in the top right corner of the taximeter; to the left of this are
the minutes in which the taxi has not moved or has hardly moved. The
first kilometer is already included in the basic fee of 35 Baht, each
additional kilometer costs 5.50 Baht. From the tenth kilometer, the
price increases to 6.50 baht, from the twentieth to 7.50 baht, and from
the fortieth to 8 baht. Waiting in traffic jams is included, and a time
component is then calculated: 2 baht per minute that the taxi is
stationary or driving slower than 6 km/h. A trip from the BTS station
Siam to the Grand Palace (7 km) costs 68 baht without traffic jams; if
you are stuck in traffic for half an hour, it is 128 baht.
In
heavy rain, when there is a risk of traffic jams or in tourist areas,
some taxi drivers try to negotiate a fixed price - usually an excessive
one. This is not advisable. Taxis waiting on the side of the road or in
front of hotels should also be avoided and a free taxi should be flagged
down from the flow of traffic instead. Sometimes it helps to walk 100
metres from a hotel or tourist attraction to the next main road.
You should state your destination before getting in, as it can happen
that a driver does not drive to a particular destination due to traffic
jams, ignorance or other reasons. You can complain about this to the
supervisory authority (see below).
Note: Even if the driver
claims otherwise, you cannot be sure that he knows the destination of
the trip. Bangkok is a very large city with countless streets and
hotels. Many taxi drivers are also not from Bangkok themselves, but have
moved here from the provinces (local knowledge is not checked when
issuing a license). The spelling of street names in Bangkok in Latin
letters can also vary greatly, and seemingly Western street names or
places are often pronounced completely differently in Thai than
expected. A business card from the hotel/guesthouse or a printout from
the Internet with instructions in Thai can be helpful - but it is not a
guarantee that you will reach your destination without any problems.
Taxi drivers sometimes try to talk tourists into something, for
example to take them to an "interesting" destination (often local shops)
that you did not originally want to go to. As a passenger, you should
politely refuse this, as this is usually just part of a deal with other
shops. If necessary, end the journey and look for another taxi. In most
cases, however, taxi rides within Bangkok are problem-free.
Expressway: Some destinations - such as the route to and from
Suvarnabhumi International Airport - can be reached both via
conventional roads and via the toll expressway (ทางด่วน, taang duàn).
The expressway is usually faster and should be used before departures.
The additional costs vary depending on the route, on average between 20
and 75 baht. The money for this should be given to the driver at the
relevant toll booths and the receipt should be kept.
Payment: You
should have the exact fare ready. Often the driver cannot give out large
bills (or at least claims not to).
Complaints about the
misconduct of taxi drivers can be made to the Department of Land
Transport on hotline 1584. You should write down the taxi number that is
displayed on the door in the passenger compartment. Since 2015, the
authority has even offered a complaints app called DLT Check in.
Shared taxis, known as songthaeo, are also common throughout
Thailand. They travel on specific routes and can be seen as feeder
routes to the buses. A route can either be a circular route or a
specific route along a major road. However, it is not easy to identify
the right shared taxi, as they are not labeled with Latin letters or
have no markings on the vehicle. They often have a numbering system
similar to buses, but as this is not published anywhere, it is only
useful for recognition.
The shared taxi is stopped with a hand
signal like a bus and you climb into the passenger area at the back.
When you get closer to your destination, you can let the driver know by
ringing your bell and he will stop at the next opportunity. Then you
walk along the passenger side (watch out for traffic here too!) to the
driver and pay there. The fare is a flat rate and is (Nov 2012) between
8 and 10 Baht per journey. You can often see this fare displayed in the
passenger area.
In addition to the Songthaeo, there is another
type of shared taxi in some parts of Bangkok. The natural gas-powered
vehicles are different colors depending on the route and are smaller,
with the entrance on the left side (in the direction of travel). The
fare is 7 to 10 baht per trip, and the journeys are usually much shorter
than with buses.
The tuk-tuk is a three-wheeled vehicle with a roof (driver in front,
up to two, sometimes three passengers in the back). Since tuk-tuks do
not have a taximeter, the fare must be negotiated before the journey. In
most cases, this is to the disadvantage of the passenger(s) and is
rarely several times more than the price for the same route in a taxi.
The only advantage is that the tuk-tuks may be able to squeeze through
one of the numerous traffic jams. Motorcycle taxis are even better at
this and are therefore the means of choice if you are in a real hurry
(see below).
Many tuk-tuk drivers also work as touts for
restaurants, jewelry dealers and boat tours. Often you are then dropped
off somewhere without notice. Such towing operations are particularly
common when the fare is low (under 100 baht). Personal questions ("Where
are you from?", "How long are you going to be in Thailand?") are used to
optimize the towing operation. You should not ask drivers for directions
and do not believe them if they tell you that a tourist attraction is
closed.
Tuk-tuk drivers are generally poor drivers and not for
the faint-hearted.
For short trips and in a hurry, you can use a motorcycle taxi. Drivers are at almost every intersection and can be recognized by their orange vests with a number on them. The driving style is sometimes breathtaking (hold on tight!) and a ride is only recommended if you are in a real hurry, as the motorcycle taxis are good at weaving through traffic jams. The fare is between ฿20 and 100 (depending on the destination). As the drivers often do not speak English, you should know some Thai yourself or have the name of the destination written in Thai on a piece of paper.
Passenger boats run on the Chao Phraya River under the name Chao
Phraya Express Boat. They have the advantage of not being tied to the
road and are therefore the means of choice for north-south connections
between places near the river bank (e.g. Khao San Road: Phra Athit
pier). The central station with a transfer option to the Skytrain is the
Sathorn pier on the Taksin Bridge. There is one line that stops at all
stops (no flag; only Mon-Fri 6:45 a.m.–7:30 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.–4:30
p.m.) and three lines that skip stations (bright yellow, green or orange
flags on the boat; check the route map!). These are mainly used by
locals. The fare is very low (10-32฿) and is paid directly on the boat.
There is also the Tourist Boat (blue flag), which goes to the most
important sights on the river (e.g. Grand Palace, Wat Pho) and on which
explanations are also offered in English during the trip. A day ticket
for as many trips as you like costs 150 baht, a single trip costs 40
baht.
The trip takes some getting used to and getting on and off
is not for the faint-hearted. Usually a rope is tied and the boat is
pushed onto the jetty with high propulsion power. Only then can you get
on or off the boat. Docking and leaving sometimes takes less than a
minute. It's best to watch first before trying it out for yourself. The
waiting areas at some jetties (e.g. at the Phra Athit station mentioned
above) are integrated into a building; accordingly, it can sometimes be
difficult to judge which line an approaching boat belongs to due to a
lack of a clear view. In this case (especially if there are obviously
tourists at the jetty) the staff sometimes call out the corresponding
fare for the boat in English over a megaphone (e.g. "fifteen" for the
orange line or "forty" for the blue line).
At some stations, you
can buy a ticket in advance at a counter (don't be surprised, it's about
the size of a postage stamp and is made of extremely thin paper). Here,
too, you should name the corresponding fare for the chosen line. During
the journey, a conductor walks over the boat and collects the fare in
cash from the passengers, which is usually completely non-verbal (the
conductor holds his wallet in front of the passenger's nose and rattles
it) and therefore does not represent an obstacle for the interested
traveler. If you have already bought a ticket at the pier, you hand it
over for validation (a simple tearing).
The individual stops are
not announced on the boats (at least on the non-tourist lines). For
better orientation, it is therefore advisable to look up the number of
the desired destination and the name of the previous stop on the route
map in order to be able to fight your way to the exit at the rear in
time, especially if the boat is very full.
At piers near tourist
attractions (especially Wat Pho), you are often intercepted by touts who
want to sell you a ticket on a "river taxi", even if you emphasize that
you want to get on the "express boat". The trips cost around 500฿ per
boat per hour, so they are only interesting for groups. And always
negotiate with the captain, not with the tout on land, otherwise he will
add his commission on top.
The Khlong Saen Saep Expressboat uses the east-west khlong (canal)
parallel to the traffic-congested Phetchaburi Road and continues to the
Bang Kapi district. The western end point is near the "Golden Mountain"
(Wat Saket) on the edge of the old town. The western and eastern
sections have their transfer point at Pratu Nam near Central World. You
can see how it works by taking a trip from the Golden Mountain (Phan Fa
Lilat pier) to Pratu Nam (12 Baht). It has the advantage that you don't
have to look for your pier to get off. The piers only have small signs
in English. The eastern section (price up to 20 Baht) is mainly used by
commuters.
The fare is paid to "conductors" who balance on the
railing during the journey. During rush hour the boats are often very
full. Standing under the low roof can be very uncomfortable on longer
journeys. It can also happen that you get splashed by the canal water,
which sometimes smells very strongly of sewage. The plastic sheets that
are supposed to prevent this have to be pulled up and down by the
passengers themselves. The line runs from 5:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and
the wait until the next departure is never longer than 10 to 15 minutes,
even at midday. In the afternoon, the boats run much more frequently.
Ferries run at many places between the two banks of the Chao Phraya. The price is usually a single-digit baht amount. It should be noted that the boats often rock heavily when there are waves on the river.
Bangkok is considered a shopping paradise (see Süddeutsche Zeitung:
“City of bargain hunters”). The following description is therefore only
a small excerpt and can by no means be exhaustive:
Siam Square is
located on King Rama I Road, an extension of Sukhumvit Road. It is a
kind of shopping district with numerous opportunities to spend money,
especially clothing and food. A few minutes' walk away on Phetchaburi
Road is Pantip Plaza, a five-story shopping mall. Here you can find
consumer electronics and computer technology, as well as music, DVDs and
software. The prices are slightly below European levels. However, if the
prices are dramatically cheaper than in Germany, they are certainly
counterfeit goods. Music and software in particular are often offered
dramatically cheaper. Imports into Germany are prohibited and the
products are usually defective, so that the supposed bargain turns out
to be useless.
Bangkok is known for its tailors, who can make
tailor-made shirts, suits and costumes at reasonable prices. However,
there are large fluctuations in quality and you should not rely on
promises but on recommendations from friends and other customers. You
should generally stay away from tailors who approach their customers on
the street. We recommend the Siam Emporium, which has two branches. One
branch is on the second floor of the Siam Center (232 Siam Center, Rama
1 Road, Pathumwan Bangkok 10330). The other branch is the company's
headquarters and is located near the Nana Skytrain station (170
Sukhumvit Road, Sukhumvit Soi 8, Bangkok 10110 - use exit 4 at Nana
station). The cost of a tailor-made suit is between 150 and 200 euros,
depending on the quality of the fabric. A tailor-made shirt costs the
equivalent of around 20 euros and takes around 48 hours to produce. It
makes no sense to ask for a discount at the Siam Emporium. You are aware
of the quality delivered and do not give discounts. Another advantage is
the possibility of ordering online. Once you have been measured on site
(and your figure has not changed), you can easily order another suit
online and have it delivered.
Although Bangkok's many shopping centers are generally neither
particularly cheap nor "authentic," there can still be something to be
said for escaping the heat for a while and window shopping in the cool
of the air conditioning. This is the place for those who prefer
well-organized department stores and specialty shops to the chaos of
market stalls and who prefer clearly marked fixed prices to haggling.
Many middle- and upper-class Bangkokians spend a large part of their
free time in these malls, so they have entertainment and food options
that allow them to stay for several hours. Many shopping centers have a
multiplex cinema where English or English-subtitled films are also
shown.
3 CentralWorld, 999/9 Th. Phra Ram 1 (Rama I Road), Pathum
Wan (at the Ratchaprasong intersection, diagonally opposite Erawan
Shrine). With 550,000 m² of space, it is the largest shopping center in
Thailand and one of the largest in the world. International fashion
brands such as Timberland, Zara, MNG and Izzue are represented here, as
well as Toys ‘R’ Us, there is a multiplex cinema with 15 screens, an ice
rink and over 100 restaurants and cafes. – (BTS) to Siam or (Khlong
boat) to Pratu Nam or (bus) to Rong Phayaban Tamruat or Hang Central
World. Open: daily 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
4 Siam Paragon, 991 Th. Phra
Ram 1 (Rama I Road), Pathum Wan. Glittering and high-priced mall,
meeting place for the local upper class and rich tourists;
representatives of international luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton,
Prada, Rolex, Armani, Swarovski, Bose, Bang & Olufsen; showrooms of
Ferrari, Lamborghini and Aston Martin; multiplex cinema with 15 screens
and IMAX technology, bowling alley. A special attraction in Siam Paragon
is the large aquarium Siam Ocean World. – (BTS) to Siam or (Khlong boat)
to Saphan Hua Chang or (bus) to Siam Center. Open: daily 10 a.m. to 10
p.m.
5 MBK Center (เอ็มบีเคเซ็นเตอร์), 444 Th. Phaya Thai (at the
Pathum Wan intersection, opposite Bangkok Art and Culture Centre). One
of Bangkok's older shopping centres, frequented mainly by locals. Prices
are lower here than in other shopping centres. Unlike European and
American malls, there are not only shops here, but also areas with small
stalls like in an Asian market. Here you can buy mobile phones, photo
equipment, video games, clothes and bags relatively cheaply. There is
also a large food court with food stalls and a cinema. – (BTS) to
National Stadium or (Khlong boat) to Saphan Hua Chang or (bus) to Hang
Mabunkhrong Open: daily 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
6 Platinum Fashion Mall,
222 Th. Petchaburi, Ratchathewi (between Central World and Baiyoke
Tower, near Pantip Plaza). good address for inexpensive clothing. The
small shops are spread over 5 floors in 3 zones.
7 River City
(ริเวอร์ซิตี้), Th. Yotha, Samphanthawong (side street of Thanon Charoen
Krung, near Royal Orchid Hotel). multi-storey shopping centre with shops
specialising in high-quality antiques, art and handicrafts; usually no
bargains though; auctions on the first Saturday of the month. (Express
boat) to Si Phraya or (bus) to Tha Nam Si Phraya or River City's own
shuttle boat from (BTS) Taksin. Open: daily 10am-10pm.
Street vendors are inevitable on all of Bangkok's main streets.
Sometimes you wonder where they get their goods from, since the prices
there should be even lower. The answer is simple. There are a good dozen
markets for all kinds of goods. Textiles are mainly traded at the
wholesale market Bobae Market (Thanon Krung Kasem near the Thanon
Bamrung Muang intersection). However, you often have to buy larger
quantities there. Individual items of clothing are often considerably
more expensive.
The largest market in Asia is the Chatuchak
weekend market (Pahonyothin Road corner Kamphaeng Phet 1 Road; MRT stop
Kamphaeng Phet). There is nothing you can't find at over 15,000 market
stalls. Furniture, plants, art and junk, live fish, pets and of course
clothing and food at almost unbeatable prices.
Goods of dubious
origin can be found at the Klong Toey Market (Rama IV/corner of
Ratchadaphisek) and the Nakhom Kasem Market (Thanon Charoen Krung/corner
of Thanon Chakkrawat). These are mainly electrical and electronic
devices, software and CDs, watches and jewelry. They are almost always
counterfeits, smuggled goods or goods that were "lost" in Bangkok
harbor. Of course, all of this is without guarantee and without the
right to exchange.
There are two floating markets in the city
area. These are open from Friday to Sunday. If you want to visit a
floating market that is open all week, you have to go to Damnoen Saduak.
Bangkok Bank
Bank of Ayudhya (Krungsri)
Kasikorn Bank
Krung
Thai Bank PCL
Siam Commercial Bank
Thai Military Bank (TMB)
There is an incredible variety of food options in Bangkok, from
simple street food stalls to high-end restaurants, from the four
regional cuisines of Thailand to Japanese, Mexican, Italian, French and
even German cuisine. Vegetarians should also have no problem finding
their taste here. The following can only be a rough introduction, taking
into account restaurants with a special or rare offer. More information
can be found in the district articles.
Cheap
There are small
mobile food stalls everywhere, where you can usually eat well and
inexpensively. However, before buying, you should take a look at the
method of preparation and storage of the food. Because if you see that
the chicken has been lying in the sun for a little too long, for
example, you should look for another food stall. A strong stomach and a
certain willingness to experiment are an advantage, but anyone who comes
to Southeast Asia should not miss out on a good and inexpensive meal at
one of the many food stalls.
There are also large areas with a
variety of restaurants (“food courts”) in the shopping centers (e.g.
MBK). You buy tokens (coupons) or credit for a payment card at a
counter, which you can use to put together a menu from the freshly
prepared dishes at the various stalls.
The hot pot or suki
restaurants that have been adopted from East Asia are also recommended
(the Thai word suki (สุกี้) is derived from the Japanese sukiyaki, but
is an independent variant of the hot pot). You choose raw ingredients
(various bite-sized meat, fish or seafood appetizers, vegetables,
mushrooms, tofu, egg, noodles, dumplings, etc.) from a buffet or the
menu, which you can then cook yourself at the table in a hot pot filled
with broth (like a fondue). Very common restaurant chains that use this
principle are MK Restaurants or Hot Pot Restaurant. Their branches can
be found in almost every shopping center in Bangkok.
1 Ran Lung
Yai (ร้านลุงใหญ่), 532 Th. Din Daeng. Considered one of the best Isan
restaurants in Bangkok. Although it looks very simple, even upper-class
Bangkokians come to “Uncle Yai’s” restaurant to eat som tam, grilled
chicken, etc. Open: daily 3:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Medium
Many
hotels, including the upscale ones, open their buffets to external
guests. You can often get good food here at a reasonable flat rate. The
current offers are printed in daily newspapers or can be viewed at
www.buffet-thailand.com.
Thai
2 Cabbages & Condoms, 10
Sukhumvit Soi 12, Bangkok 10110 (Located between the Nana and Asoke
Skytrain stations. From Skhumvit Rd. you turn south into Soi 12 and you
will see the restaurant about 200m on the right (there are plenty of
signs). Tel.: +662 229 4610, Mobile: +662 229 461128. The restaurant is
run by the non-profit Population and Community Development Association
(PDA), which is primarily committed to education and family planning.
That's why you'll be confronted with condoms throughout the restaurant -
a life-sized Santa Claus made of condoms, lampshades made of condoms and
a condom instead of a mint on the bill. Located a little way off the
main road, the atmosphere is comparatively quiet and relaxed and the
ambience is very comfortably exotic. There is only typical Thai food and
the numerous staff are always on hand. A dinner with starters and drinks
costs around 15 euros per person. Right next door is a PDA souvenir
shop, where you can stock up on fun condom-themed items. Open: Daily
11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
3 Raan Jay Fai (ร้านเจ๊ไฝ, Raan Jae Fai),
327 Th. Maha Chai, Khwaeng Samran Rat, Khet Phra Nakhon. Tel.: +66 2 223
9384 . The first street restaurant with a Michelin star. This extremely
simple shop has been family-run for decades. Jay Fai, now over 70 years
old, stands at the charcoal stove from afternoon to night, wearing a
woolly hat, ski goggles (to protect her eyes), lipstick and rubber
boots. Her daughter serves. Simple dishes from traditional Thai cuisine
are prepared with very fresh ingredients and of the highest quality,
which is why members of high society and even the royal family
occasionally dine here. The prices are considerably higher than at most
Bangkok food stalls, but still much cheaper than at a typical
Michelin-starred restaurant. The house specialty is Khai Chiao Pu
(omelette with crab meat). Since it was mentioned in the 2018 Michelin
Guide, the demand has increased massively, and reservations are now
required. Video documentation Features: Michelin 1*, Thai cuisine. Open:
Mon-Sat 3 p.m.–2 a.m. Price: Main courses 400–1000 ฿.
German and
Swiss
4 Bei Otto, 1 Soi 20, Sukhumvit Road. Tel.: +66 (0)2-2600869,
Fax: +66 (0)2-2581496. For all tourists who are craving roulades,
schnitzel or bratwurst after a long vacation in Asia, a visit to Otto is
recommended. The clientele consists of tourists with a craving for
German food and expatriates who miss German cuisine. Thai women in
dirndls serve original German dishes. The restaurant has a small shop
that sells sausages from its own slaughterhouse and bread from its own
bakery, as well as German newspapers and other German products.
5
Deutsches Eck, Rembrandt Tower, Soi 20 Th. Sukhumvit, Khlong Toei. Tel.:
+66 (0)2-262026-3, +66 (0)2-262026-5, E-Mail:
info@deutscheseckbangkok.com. German restaurant and pub. Price: main
courses from 295฿.
G's Bangkok, Soi Patpong 2, Silom Rd. (Next to
Foodland). German restaurant and, according to its own statement,
"embassy of beers" in the middle of the Patpong red light district;
large selection of German beers, German, European and Thai dishes. Open:
daily 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.
6 Swiss Corner Restaurant, Soi 3 Muban
Sammakorn, Sukhaphiban 3 (Ramkhamhaeng Soi 112). Tel.: (0)2-3730301,
E-Mail: swisscornerbkk@gmx.ch. Restaurant founded by a Swiss, offers
classic dishes of (Central) European cuisine, the house specialty is
steak fondue; quite a large selection of wines. Located a little outside
the city (approx. 10km northeast of Thanon Phetchaburi). Open: Mon,
Tue–Fri 4pm–10pm, Sat–Sun 12pm–10pm. Price: Main courses from 340฿.
7
Tawandang German Brewery, 462/61 Th. Phra Ram 3 (Rama III Road), Chong
Nonsi, Yan Nawa. Tel.: (0)2-678 1114. Inn with its own small brewery
that produces beer brewed in the German style (lager, wheat, dark);
German and Thai dishes, regular show program.
Upscale
Thai
8 Le Du, 399/3 Silom Soi 7. Upscale Thai cuisine (seasonal offerings)
and wine bar. (BTS) to Chong Nonsi (take exit 4). Open: Mon-Sat
6pm-11pm. Price: Main courses from 570฿, 4-course menu from 1160฿.
Asian
9 Gaggan, 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Phloen Chit. Tel.:
(0)2-6521700, email: reservation@eatatgaggan.com. Haute cuisine by chef
Anand Gaggan (a student of Ferran Adrià), who describes his style as
"progressive Indian" and uses modern science and technology in the
kitchen ("molecular gastronomy"). – (BTS) to Ratchadamri Open: daily
6pm-11pm. Price: menus from 2900฿.
10 Isao, 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31.
Upscale Japanese/fusion cuisine and sushi bar. You can't make
reservations, but you may have to queue until a table becomes available;
also sushi to take away – (BTS) to Phrom Phong or (MRT) to Sukhumvit
Open: Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-11pm.
West
11 Authors' Lounge at Mandarin Oriental. Several luxury hotels
in Bangkok serve "English afternoon tea", but the Authors' Lounge at the
Mandarin Oriental is an institution. In the elegant salon with
fin-de-siècle wicker furniture, you can feel transported back to a
bygone era. Naturally, there is a large selection of teas, as well as a
multi-tiered set of fine scones and real clotted cream, jams, pies,
sandwiches, pieces of cake, cookies and other delicacies. Price: Tea set
for 2 people for 1200฿.
12 J'Aime, Hotel U Sathorn Bangkok; 105,
105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon. Tel.: (0)2-119 4899,
email: reserve@jaime-bangkok.com. Haute cuisine by French star chef
Jean-Michel Lorain. Open: daily 12 noon–2.30 p.m., 6 p.m.–10.30 p.m.
Price: lunch menu 1700฿; 6-course menu 3199฿ without drinks.
13
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Mahanakorn Cube (5th floor), 96 Th.
Narathiwat Ratchanakarin. Email: reservations@robuchon-bangkok.com. A
branch of the L’Atelier concept of the internationally renowned
Michelin-starred chef Joël Robuchon – French haute cuisine. – (BTS) to
Chong Nonsi. Open: daily 11.30am–2.30pm and 6.30pm–10.30pm. Price: main
courses 1580–3750฿, 5-course menu 5850฿ (excluding drinks).
14 Le
Normandie at Mandarin Oriental. Tel.: (0)2-659 9000 ext. 7390, Email:
mobkk-restaurants@mohg.com. Top restaurant with French cuisine. Men must
wear a jacket in the evening. Open: Mon-Sat 7pm-10pm, Sat also 12pm-2pm.
Price: Main courses from 2160฿; 6-course menu 5800฿ without drinks.
15 Sühring, 10 Soi Yen Akat 3, Khwaeng Chong Nonsi, Khet Yan Nawa. Tel.:
(0)2-2287 1799. Haute cuisine restaurant run by two German chefs (twin
brothers Mathias and Thomas Sühring). The dishes are inspired by classic
German and Central European cuisine, but vary it in their own unique
way. The restaurant is located in a former diplomatic villa and has been
awarded a Michelin star. Open: daily 5.30pm-9.30pm. Price: Menus at 4200
or 5150฿.
16 The Water Library Chamchuri, Level 2, Chamchuri Square,
Th. Phra Ram 4 (Rama IV Road). Tel.: (0)2-160 5188, E-Mail:
chamchuri@waterlibrary.com. Refined, Italian-inspired cuisine under the
direction of the German chef Mirco Keller. A special feature is the
large selection of different mineral waters, which are presented on a
representative shelf (hence the name); large selection of wines.
Children only from 8 years. – (MRT) to Sam Yan Open: daily 11.30 a.m. to
2 p.m., 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Price: main courses from 1040฿, 5-course menu
3400฿ (excluding drinks).
17 22 Kitchen & Bar, Dusit Thani, 946 Th.
Phra Ram 4 (Rama IV Road). Restaurant on the panoramic top floor (22nd
floor) of the Hotel Dusit Thani. Nikolas Ramirez's cuisine is a fusion
of Pacific Rim Mexico, Peru, Hawaii and Japan. Well-stocked bar with
unusual cocktail creations. - (MRT) to Silom or (BTS) to Sala Daeng.
Cafés
18 Roots Coffee Roaster, Ekamai Terrace No. 2-4, 295 Ekamai
15-17. Tel.: (0)88-190 5950, E-mail: info@rootsbkk.com. Serves
home-roasted filter coffee and espresso specialties. Open: Sat-Sun
12pm-6pm.
Bangkok is known for its diverse nightlife. The most famous are
probably the red light districts of Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza,
where you will find mainly gogo bars. There are also a large number of
bars and pubs, nightclubs, discos, lounges, rooftop bars, jazz bars,
etc.
Khao San Road and its side streets offer a wide variety of
nightlife options. The range extends from small pubs with live music to
large discos. Brick Bar is a music bar with a predominantly Thai
clientele. Live music is played here, including ska, jazz and blues.
Roof Bar is, as the name suggests, a bar on the top floor (although
there are only two upper floors here), with a clear view of Khao San.
Live bands also play here. Lava Club is a smaller disco that focuses
mainly on hip hop and related music. The Club is a relatively large
disco that mainly plays electronic music. Gazebo is an oriental-style
cocktail and shisha rooftop bar on Chakrapong Rd, a side street of Khao
San. In addition, the entire district around Khao San Rd, Phra Athit Rd
and Soi Rambuttri is lined with pubs and bars. You can simply look
around and spontaneously decide where you like. See district article.
RCA (Royal City Avenue) is a nightlife area in the Khet Huai Khwang
district in the northeast of the city. There are mainly large dance
clubs here. Well-known names here are Route 66, Onyx and Slim & Flix.
Most of them play electronic dance music such as house.
Silom is
another of the main nightlife districts. During the day it is Bangkok's
banking and financial district, at night there are a variety of bars and
clubs here.
Sukhumvit is also an important area for going out,
perhaps even the largest. Nightlife options are concentrated (apart from
the red-light districts of Nana Plaza (Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (Soi 23))
in Soi 11 (e.g. the large Levels Club & Lounge, the Q Bar or the rooftop
bar & restaurant Above Eleven), in Soi 55 "Thong Lo" (or "Thonglor";
e.g. the discotheque Booze, the House of Beers or Whiskey Mist) and in
Soi 63 "Ekkamai" (e.g. the clubs Escobar or Sonic or the cozy Tuba Bar,
furnished with second-hand furniture, which also serves German and
Belgian beer) — the side streets (Soi) are numbered in ascending order
in the direction out of the city. Even-numbered sois are located on the
right of Sukhumvit Rd, odd-numbered sois are located on the left of
Sukhumvit Rd. Some sois (e.g. Thong Lo and Ekkamai) are so large that
they themselves have numbered side streets. — The Skytrain line of the
same name (BTS) runs above Sukhumvit; until around midnight. For Nana
Plaza and Soi 11: Nana stop. For Soi Cowboy: Asok. For Thong Lo: Thong
Lo. For Ekkamai: Ekkamai.
So-called roof bars on the roof of
high-rise buildings and large hotels are very common and popular in
Bangkok. They offer a fantastic view of the city at night. Most are in
the Silom and Sukhumvit districts.
L'Appart, Sofitel Bangkok
Sukhumvit (32nd floor), 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15. Price: Cocktails
340฿; Beer from 220฿; tapas from 90฿.
The Roof Top Bar, Baiyoke Sky
Hotel, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd., Ratchathewi. Tel.: (0)2-656 3939. Cocktail
and wine bar on the 83rd floor of Baiyoke Tower 2, the tallest building
in Thailand at 304 meters (until the Maha Nakhon is completed). Open: 5
p.m. to 1 a.m.
Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar (Banyan Tree Hotel), Banyan
Tree Hotel, 21/100 South Sathon Road, Bangkok 10120. This is the place
to start or end your stay in Bangkok. The restaurant and bar are located
on the roof (61st floor) of the 5-star Banyan Tree Hotel. It is best to
visit after sunset, as the view over the sea of lights of Bangkok is
guaranteed to be a lasting memory. This view of Bangkok will make
everyone fall in love with this city - guaranteed!
More in the
respective district articles
The roof bars usually have a dress code,
which they also strictly enforce. Guests wearing sneakers, sandals,
shorts or sleeveless shirts (for men) are turned away. The dress code is
sometimes also applied to children.
There are hundreds of accommodations in Bangkok, from the simplest
guest house to smaller boutique hotels and international luxury hotels.
With simple guest houses, you can simply arrive on a whim. Advance
reservations are unusual, the prices are fixed anyway and there are so
many in the "backpacker district" around Khao San Road and Phra Athit
that you never have to worry about being left without accommodation. A
double room with a fan is available here from 200 Baht. For mid-range
and upscale hotels, however, booking early via online portals or travel
agencies is highly recommended. Prices there are often 30% lower than
the list price, which is available directly at reception.
Individual accommodations in the district articles, especially Siam,
Sukhumvit, Silom and Rattanakosin.
Cheap
Khao San Road in the
Bang Lamphu district is well-known among backpackers worldwide with its
side streets and alleys (Thanon Phra Athit, Thanon Chakraphong, Soi
Rambuttri), where dozens of places to sleep are offered and everything
an uncertain first-time traveler needs can be found, such as travel
agencies, internet cafes and restaurants with mainly English-language
menus. The hostels offer everything from windowless, cheap dorms to
rooms with TVs and air conditioning, and it is a good place to arrive in
Thailand and find out what to do next. Khao San Road has no metro or
skytrain connection, but you can take a boat from the Phra Athit pier to
the terminus of the skytrain (Saphan Taksin). For more information, see
the district article.
PanPan Hostel, 50/31 Pan Road, Silom, Bang Rak,
Bangkok 10500. Tel.: (0)99-1570147, (0)81-4460655. Modern, clean hostel
with bright furnishings à la Ikea; convenient location in a quiet side
street of Thanon Silom, 700 meters from the Skytrain station, right next
to the Indian temple; non-smoking accommodation; 6-bed dorm, 4-bed dorm
(mixed or women only) or triple room with shared bathroom, double or
family room with private bathroom; all rooms with AC; breakfast
included; laundry service (3 items per day included); roof terrace,
shared kitchen, lockers); WiFi included. Price: bed in 6-bed dorm 380฿,
double room from 1100฿.
The Yard, 51 Phahonyothin Road, Samsen Nai,
Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400. Tel.: (0)2-2798888, Mobile: (0)89-6774050.
Beautiful, modern and clean hostel with a garden; located in a quiet
residential area (hardly touristy), but with plenty of restaurants and
cafes, 600 meters from the Skytrain station; 6-bed dorms (mixed or women
only), 4-bed dorm or double room, some with balcony; all rooms with AC,
shared bathrooms with showers; breakfast included in all categories;
bike rental; washing machine, barbecue facilities, small library;
luggage storage for up to 2 months; WiFi included. Price: bed in 6-bed
dorm 550฿; double room from 1500฿.
Medium
Inn A Day, 57-61 Th.
Maharat, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200. Small, family-run boutique hotel
(11 individually furnished rooms) directly on the Chao Phraya River,
directly opposite Wat Arun (some rooms with a view of the river and
landmark), in the immediate vicinity of Wat Pho; almost all rooms with a
balcony - (express boat) to Tha Tian or (ferry) from Wat Arun or (bus)
to Tha Tian Price: double room from 3500฿.
Phranakorn Nornlen, 46
Thewet soi 1, Phranakorn, Bangkhunprom, Krungkasem, Bangkok. Tel.:
(0)2-6288188-9, email: rooms@phranakorn-nornlen.com. Small boutique
hotel in a side street of the old town (near Wat Intharawihan), which
identifies itself as a "green" hotel; vegetarian organic breakfast and
restaurant; WiFi included, all rooms non-smoking, no TV; advice on tours
and excursions, Thai massage, activities such as Thai cooking class.
Price: double room from 2600฿.
SSIP Boutique Dhevej Bangkok, 42
Th. Phitsanulok, Dusit, Bangkok. Tel.: (0)2-2821899. Small, tastefully
furnished hotel in a colonial-style building with a lush garden near
Dusit Palace and Rama V Memorial, a little off the beaten track from the
main attractions, but quickly accessible by boat (10 minutes' walk to
the pier). Price: double room from 2400฿.
Upscale
Ariyasomvilla, 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok
10110. Tel.: (0)2-548880-3, (0)2-2538800, email: info@ariyasom.com.
Green oasis in a quiet side street of Thanon Sukhumvit in the middle of
Bangkok: small resort (24 rooms) with lush garden, classy furnishings in
the style of Bangkok in the 1940s and 50s, but with all modern
amenities; swimming pool, spa, library, restaurant (Thai and western,
especially with vegetarian and seafood dishes); about 10 minutes' walk
to the Skytrain. Price: double room from 6,263฿ (list price low season),
possibly much cheaper if booked early via online portals or travel
agency.
Luxury
Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue,
Bangkok 10500. Tel.: (0)2-6599000. One of the leading and most
traditional luxury hotels in Asia, founded in 1876, located directly on
the Chao Phraya River. Price: Double room from 15,150฿ (normal price),
special offers may be cheaper.
The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park
Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330.
Tel.: (0)2-6879000. Luxury hotel in a modern high-rise in the middle of
the central business district, right next to the Chit Lom BTS station;
roof terrace with swimming pool and spectacular view. Price: Double room
from 9000฿ (normal price), early bird may be cheaper.
The Siam, 3/2
Th. Khao, Vachirapayabal, Dusit, Bangkok 10300. Tel.: (0)2-2066999,
E-Mail: info@thesiamhotel.com. Small luxury resort (39 units) with
suites and "villas" from 80 to 160 m² directly on the Chao Phraya River
near Dusit Palace; furnishings in the style of the reign of Rama V
(around 1900) and Art Deco; Thai restaurant, bistro, café, bar, library,
private pier, spa, swimming pool, fitness room. Price: Suite from
17,600฿.
Since Thailand is a highly centralized country, Bangkok has a
disproportionately high number of colleges and universities. Most of the
country's top universities are also located in Bangkok and the
surrounding area. These offer so-called international programs, i.e.
courses that are taught entirely in English, or even international
institutes, and are therefore well suited to foreign guest students.
1 Chulalongkorn University, 254 Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330. Founded in
1917 (the predecessor institute had already existed since 1899), it is
the oldest, most renowned, but also most elite university in the
country. It has a broad range of offerings. The QS World University
Ranking ranks it among the 200 leading universities in the world in all
engineering subjects, architecture, modern languages, business
administration, chemistry, biology, pharmacy and medicine.
2
Kasetsart University, 50 Ngam Wong Wan Rd, Lat Yao, Chatuchak, Bangkok
10900. Its predecessor was an agricultural school, Kasetsart means
"agricultural science". Since 1969, however, it has been a full
university where you can also study engineering, natural science,
economics and social science subjects. According to the QS World
University Ranking, it is one of the 50 leading institutes in the world
for agricultural and forestry sciences. It is also interesting for
visitors who are not interested in studying because of its large public
aquarium.
3 Mahidol University, 999 Phutthamonthon 4 Road, Salaya,
Nakhon Pathom 73170. It emerged from the first modern medical school in
the country and was initially a specialized university for medical
science. Since 1969, however, it has been a full university with a wide
range of courses. However, its strengths still lie primarily in the
fields of medicine and life sciences. According to the QS World
University Ranking, it is one of the world's 100 leading universities in
medicine. There are two campuses in Bangkok (Phaya Thai and Bangkok
Noi), but the main campus (including the "International College") is in
the province of Nakhon Pathom, 20 km west of Bangkok. The Medical Museum
set up by the university, also known as the "Museum of Death", is of
interest to tourists.
4 Thammasat University, 2 Prachan Road, Bangkok
10170. The second oldest university in the country, its student body is
considered to be somewhat more liberal and progressive than that of
Chulalongkorn, with whom it has a traditional rivalry. Originally it
specialized in law, political science and economics, but for decades it
has been a full university. The original campus with the rectorate and
"International College" is located in the middle of the old town within
walking distance of the Grand Palace, but most bachelor's courses are
taught on the newer Rangsit campus 40 km north of Bangkok.
A popular offer is Thai cooking courses. There are numerous providers
that target foreign guests. The price level is generally higher than in
other parts of Thailand, e.g. Chiang Mai. The courses usually include a
visit to the market to learn what to look out for when buying
ingredients. The schools provide all the cooking utensils you need, and
you often also get a certificate and a collection of recipes.
5
Baipai Thai Cooking School, 8/91 Ngam Wongwan Road, Soi 54. Tel.:
(0)89-6606535, (0)2-5611404, E-Mail: thaicooking@baipai.com. Cooking
school in a traditional Thai wooden house in a residential area on the
outskirts of the city. In a half-day course you learn four dishes, the
menu changes from day to day. Cooking school organizes pick-up from
large hotels in the city area. Price: 4-hour course for 2200฿.
6 Chef
Leez, 35 Samsen Road (near the junction of Soi 1; 500m from Khao San
Road). Tel.: (0)86-5681311. In four hours you should learn 13 different
dishes, which includes a visit to the market. The classes are quite
large, max. 20 participants. There are also "semi-private" courses for
around 6 students. Special diets and intolerances can be taken into
account on request. Price: 4-hour course for 2200฿.
7 Cooking with
Poo & Friends. Tel.: (0)80-4348686, email: cookwithpoo@gmail.com.
Cooking school in the Khlong Toei slum area, the teachers are slum
dwellers. A daily changing menu of four dishes is cooked. Course
includes a visit to the market. Since the cooking school is difficult to
find, you meet at the Emporium Suites (BTS station Phrom Phong). Price:
4-hour course for 1500฿.
8 Maliwan Thai Cooking Class, 9 Sip Sam Hang
Rd (in a small alley off Th. Kraisi, near Wat Bowonniwet, 500m from Khao
San Road). Tel.: (0)2-1075825, Mobile: (0)90-0063824, Email:
cs@maliwancooking.com. Changing menus of 5 dishes are cooked, including
a visit to the market. Small groups (max. 8 participants). There are
also customizable and private courses. Price: 4-hour course for 1375฿.
9 Silom Thai Cooking School, 68 Silom Soi 13. Tel.: (0)84-7265669,
email: info@bangkokthaicooking.com. Cooking school in a traditional
outdoor kitchen. Small groups (max. 9 participants). Six dishes are
cooked in one course; the respective dishes change from day to day. To
learn more dishes, you can participate on several days; from 3 days
onwards the price is reduced to 800฿/day. Price: 4-hour course for
1000฿.
10 Sompong Thai Cooking School, 31/11 Silom Soi 13 (approx.
100m into the alley that branches off from Th. Silom opposite the Narai
Hotel, 800m from the Chong Nonsi BTS station.). Tel.: (0)2-2332128.
Small groups (max. 8 students). A menu of 5 dishes will be cooked that
changes from day to day. The course includes a visit to the market.
Vegetarian options are available on request, and intolerances can be
accommodated on request. Price: 4-hour course for 1000฿.
According to the Foreign Office, Thailand is experiencing "increasing crime (including theft, rape, robbery, sometimes resulting in death)." Such attacks can also occur in Bangkok.
At the two main attractions, the Grand Palace (with Wat Phra Kaeo)
and Wat Pho, tourists are often approached by touts who claim that the
temple is closed (in reality, Wat Phra Kaeo is only closed on two days a
year: the King's birthday on December 5th and ???) and offer a tour to
other attractions instead. Most of the time, you are then lured into
gemstone shops where worthless gemstones are sold at extremely inflated
prices as a "unique opportunity".
Bangkok taxi drivers sometimes
use a similar trick. For example, if you want to drive to the Grand
Palace in the morning, they claim that the palace doesn't open until
10:00 a.m. (in reality, you can visit it from 8:30 a.m.). They then
offer to take you to a jewelry store in the meantime, where you can
supposedly get a bargain. You should definitely not agree to this. It is
best to end the journey immediately and look for a new taxi.
You
should also be careful when taking a taxi to the Patpong entertainment
district: taxi drivers sometimes suggest that you go to a "ping pong
show" (erotic show) (among other things, they promise that you only have
to pay 1,000 BHT and all drinks are free). It also happens that you are
dropped off in front of a bar where the show is taking place without
asking. Never go into this bar, as they often ask for "additional fees"
(ominous tips, etc.), which can drive the cost of attending the show to
breathtaking heights.
Only take a taxi with a meter and make sure
that it is switched on. Long distances can be negotiated. Not every taxi
driver knows the whole of Bangkok, but they will not always admit it in
order to avoid losing face. It is often helpful to be able to show the
taxi driver your destination on Google Maps using your cell phone.
The traffic conditions in Thailand are considered to be one of the most dangerous in the world. In 2010, the World Health Organization (WHO) estimated the number of traffic fatalities in the whole of Thailand at 26,312. Roads in Bangkok should be crossed with caution, as e.g. zebra crossings, red lights and other traffic regulations are not always observed.
Bangkok is repeatedly the scene of political unrest, which in several
cases has escalated into extreme violence. In 2010, between 88 and 92
people died in protests by the National United Front of Democracy
Against Dictatorship (UDD) against the Thai government, including two
foreign journalists. The last demonstrations in Bangkok were in late
2013/early 2014, during which 28 people died.
In 2015, Bangkok
saw several bomb attacks, but with one exception, only minor injuries
were sustained. On August 17, however, a homemade bomb detonated at the
Erawan Shrine, which is popular with Thais and tourists alike, near the
Central World shopping center, killing 20 people - including tourists
from China, Malaysia and Singapore - and seriously injuring at least 125
others.
Tourists should always follow the travel and safety
advice of the Federal Foreign Office when traveling through Bangkok and
Thailand in order to stay informed about security-related incidents.
Tourists in Bangkok should take the usual precautions that apply to
most countries in Southeast Asia. These include, for example, not
drinking tap water and only drinking water from sealed bottles. It is
better to avoid ice cubes in drinks, and the same goes for ice cream
that is sold unpackaged. Fruit should only be eaten peeled. Even if the
"street food" from the street corner stalls is some of the tastiest you
can get in Bangkok and many travelers love it, you should take a
critical look at the ingredients used and their freshness. If in doubt,
if you have a sensitive stomach, it might be better to avoid it.
Only the outskirts of Thailand are malaria areas, the capital can be
considered malaria-free. Nevertheless, you should also protect yourself
from mosquito bites in Bangkok, as these can transmit the dangerous
dengue fever (especially in the rainy season from April to September).
Bangkok is considered to be one of the strongholds of the day-active
tiger mosquitoes, which are responsible for dengue fever.
Unfortunately, sexually transmitted diseases and HIV are still among the
diseases that the country has to contend with, even if the number of new
HIV infections has not increased in the last two years. Tourists who
enjoy such entertainment in Bangkok should urgently adhere to the usual
rules of safer sex. In certain circumstances, additional protective
measures (e.g. hepatitis protection) may be advisable.
When you arrive in Bangkok, you might initially get the impression
that English is the second official or common language here: not only
street signs, signposts, means of transport, sights and public
facilities, but also shops, food and drink menus are usually in Thai and
English. However, you should not assume that English is spoken and
understood fluently in all of these facilities. In the tourist sector
such as hotels and upscale restaurants, this is certainly the case;
outside of that, it is a matter of luck and you will often only come
across rudimentary English skills. Most travelers and even many expats
who live here for a longer period of time speak (almost) no Thai and
usually get by anyway - with gestures if necessary.
Of course,
there are advantages to learning at least a little Thai. On the one
hand, many Bangkokians - like everywhere else in the world - are happy
if you at least make an effort to speak their language. Some will then
become more accommodating, even giving discounts or tips. On the other
hand, you can also discover destinations and opportunities off the
beaten track. In a small shop or food stall in an area where tourists
rarely go, for example, you will have a hard time speaking English. You
should not expect motorcycle taxi drivers to speak English either, as
this means of transport is rarely used by foreigners. It helps to at
least know the numbers, as you should negotiate the fare before the
journey. At the market, you may also be quoted a different price in Thai
than in English, as this shows that you are not such a naive tourist.
See the Thai phrasebook.
If that is too much for you, it is
useful to be able to show a taxi driver your destination written down in
Thai, for example. Simple maps in Thai to describe the destination are
also helpful. There should be well-known points of interest for
orientation, e.g. a Wat.
Bangkok was originally just a small fishing village on the eastern
bank of the Chao Phraya. It was first recorded on a Portuguese map in
1511. Around 1680 there were only three inhabited places south of the
village: a customs house, the trading post called Fort Amsterdam, which
was built by the Dutch in 1622, and the town of Ban Vat. During the
historical era of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, the town developed into a
sizeable trading port and important stop on the water route to the
capital.
The origins of today's Bangkok lie in the small town of
Thonburi, now part of the capital, on the western bank of the Chao
Praya. General Taksin made Thonburi the new capital in 1772, after the
capital of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya had been largely destroyed in the
war with Burma in 1767. Ten years later, the new King Rama I, founder of
the Chakri dynasty that still rules today, moved the seat of government
to the eastern bank and began to develop the area called Rattanakosin,
with the village of Bang Kok, which was then mainly inhabited by
Chinese, into the capital, following the example of the former
residential city.
Since then, the official name of the city has
been Krung Thep (กรุงเทพฯ). However, this is only a shortened form of
the full name, the longest city name in the world (see Name of the city
above). Western traders and travelers used the name of the village
Bangkok instead, which became the internationally known name today.
Rattanakosin was turned into an artificial island in a bend of the
Chao Phraya by a canal, the Khlong Lot, in the center of which the new
royal palace and the royal temple, Wat Phra Kaeo with the Emerald Buddha
(Phra Kaeo), the national shrine of Thailand, were built.
At that
time, the entire city was criss-crossed by a dense network of canals
(khlongs). Most of the traffic took place on these khlongs. Even the
markets took place on the water ("floating markets"). There were hardly
any streets. At that time, Bangkok was sometimes referred to as the
Venice of the East. Most of the khlongs were filled in one after the
other from the middle of the 19th century onwards to make room for the
steadily increasing traffic and the growing city.
In 1863, the
city's first paved road, Thanon Charoen Krung (literally translated as
"road to expand the capital"; western foreigners called it New Road),
was completed on the site of an earlier elephant trail. During the reign
of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) (reigned 1868-1910), a railway line
connecting Bangkok with the north of the country, tram lines for
inner-city traffic, a large number of new roads and the majority of
government buildings, often influenced by European styles, were built.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the city grew north and east
beyond its former borders. The inauguration of the first bridge, the
Memorial Bridge, over the Chao Praya in 1932 marked a further growth
spurt, especially for the districts west of the river. During the Second
World War, Bangkok was occupied by Japanese forces for several years and
was bombed by the Allies from 1944 onwards. After the end of the war,
however, the city recovered quickly and continued to grow steadily.
By the middle of the 20th century, most of the khlongs had been
filled in and replaced by boulevards and streets. During this time,
major roads in all directions, such as Sukhumvit Road, were built. From
the 1960s and 1970s onwards, more houses were built and city motorways
expanded than ever before. In the 1970s, Bangkok was the scene of
dramatic political events: first the popular uprising against the
military dictatorship in October 1973, and then three years later the
massacre of left-wing students and demonstrators on the campus of
Thammasat University. With the economic boom of the 1980s (see "Tiger
States"), another new development began, which led to the construction
of a large number of high-rise buildings and permanently changed the
cityscape. At the same time, the number of residents rose rapidly,
ultimately making Bangkok one of the largest metropolises in the world.
In May 1992, there were further mass protests in the capital against the
government of the time, which were brutally suppressed in what is known
as "Black May".
At the beginning of the 21st century, over six million people live in
Bangkok, and over ten million in the metropolitan region. Economically,
the city is recovering noticeably from the collapse at the end of the
boom in the 1990s, which is also reflected in new construction projects.
One of the city's biggest problems is road traffic. Even the expansion
of the public transport network with Bangkok Metro and Bangkok Skytrain
has so far only been able to ease the situation minimally.
After
several political crises in the country since 2006, Bangkok was the
scene of bloody riots in April and May 2010 that attracted international
attention.
At the end of October 2011, the largest flood disaster
in 50 years flooded several districts of Bangkok, and many districts had
to be evacuated.
At the end of 2013 and the beginning of 2014,
Bangkok was once again the scene of politically motivated riots. In
January 2014, the opposition movement announced the goal of completely
paralyzing public life in Bangkok ("Shutdown Bangkok"). The conflict
ended in May 2014 with another military coup.