Songkhla, located in southern Thailand on the eastern coast of the Malay Peninsula, is a historic coastal city and the capital of Songkhla Province. Positioned approximately 970 kilometers south of Bangkok and 30 kilometers from Hat Yai, Songkhla is a cultural and historical gem, often overshadowed by its larger neighbor Hat Yai, the region’s commercial hub. With a population of around 75,048 in the city and 1.4 million in the province (2024 estimate), Songkhla blends a rich maritime heritage, vibrant multicultural communities (Thai, Chinese, and Malay), and scenic coastal landscapes. Unlike the ancient Siamese capitals of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya, the Lanna centers of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, the Isan hub of Khon Kaen, the royal resort of Hua Hin, or the southern cultural stronghold of Nakhon Si Thammarat, Songkhla is distinguished by its Sino-Portuguese architecture, strategic lakeside location, and role as a historical trade port.
Songkhla’s history spans over a millennium, making it older than Hat
Yai (1920s–present), Hua Hin (1920s–present), and Khon Kaen
(1797–present), but younger than Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Srivijaya-era
origins (6th century) or Sukhothai (1238–1438) and Ayutthaya’s
(1350–1767) Siamese capitals. The city traces its roots to the early
centuries CE, when it was a key port in the Srivijaya Empire, a maritime
Buddhist kingdom centered in Sumatra. Known as Singgora or Singhanakhon,
Songkhla thrived as a trade hub connecting India, China, and the Malay
Archipelago, similar to Nakhon Si Thammarat’s early role but less
prominent than Ayutthaya’s later global trade network.
By the
10th century, Songkhla was a semi-autonomous city-state under Srivijaya,
later falling under the influence of the Tamil Chola Empire and the
Khmer Empire. Its strategic location on a peninsula between the Gulf of
Thailand and Songkhla Lake (Thale Sap) made it a vital maritime and
defensive outpost, akin to Sukhothai’s fortified position. In the 13th
century, Songkhla came under Sukhothai’s loose control, followed by
Ayutthaya’s dominance in the 14th century. Unlike Chiang Mai and Chiang
Rai’s Lanna autonomy, Songkhla’s rulers often paid tribute to central
Thai powers while managing local Malay vassals.
In the 17th–19th
centuries, Songkhla was a regional powerhouse, governing southern
provinces and resisting Malay rebellions, particularly during the
Bangkok period under the Chakri Dynasty. The city’s fortifications,
including the Songkhla City Wall (built 1836–1842), reflect its military
significance, comparable to Nakhon Si Thammarat’s older walls. The
arrival of Chinese immigrants, particularly Hokkien traders, in the 18th
century shaped its multicultural identity, a trait shared with Hat Yai.
The Southern Railway’s extension in 1913, later than Nakhon Si Thammarat
but earlier than Hat Yai, boosted trade, though Hat Yai’s railway
junction eclipsed Songkhla’s commercial role.
During World War
II, Songkhla was a Japanese landing point in 1941, but its post-war
recovery focused on fishing, agriculture, and tourism. In the 20th
century, it became a provincial capital and educational center, with
Thaksin University, though it remained less urbanized than Khon Kaen or
Hat Yai. Today, Songkhla’s historical significance is recognized through
preservation efforts, with its old town proposed for UNESCO
consideration, aligning with Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Nakhon Si
Thammarat’s heritage status.
Songkhla’s attractions combine historical sites, scenic beaches,
vibrant markets, and natural landmarks, offering a more compact and
coastal experience than Sukhothai or Ayutthaya’s sprawling ruins, Chiang
Mai’s temple density, Chiang Rai’s artistic temples, Hat Yai’s urban
markets, Khon Kaen’s lake-centric sites, Hua Hin’s resort beaches, or
Nakhon Si Thammarat’s ancient temples. Its old town and lakeside setting
are unique draws. Below are the highlights:
Songkhla Old Town:
The historic heart of Songkhla, centered on Nakhon Nai, Nakhon Nok, and
Nang Ngam Roads, features Sino-Portuguese shophouses from the 19th
century, vibrant street art, and cafes. Unlike Ayutthaya’s ruins or
Chiang Mai’s moat-walled old city, it’s a living heritage zone, similar
to Nakhon Si Thammarat’s old city but more compact. Key sites include
the Songkhla City Pillar Shrine, a colorful spiritual landmark, and Ban
Nakorn Nai Museum, a restored mansion showcasing local history. Entry:
Free (museum: 50 THB).
Samila Beach and Golden Mermaid Statue:
Songkhla’s iconic beach, a 2-kilometer stretch of fine sand, is famous
for the Golden Mermaid Statue, a symbol of local folklore. The beach is
quieter than Hua Hin’s but livelier than Khanom’s in Nakhon Si
Thammarat, with seafood restaurants and views of Cat and Mouse Islands.
Ideal for sunset strolls and kite-flying. Entry: Free.
Songkhla
National Museum (Phathammarong Museum): Housed in a 1878 Chinese-style
mansion, this museum displays artifacts from Srivijaya to the Bangkok
period, including ceramics and royal regalia. It’s smaller than
Sukhothai’s Ramkhamhaeng Museum or Khon Kaen’s National Museum but
richer than Hat Yai’s urban museums. Address: Wichianchom Rd, Bo Yang.
Entry: 100 THB.
Wat Matchimawat (Wat Klang): A 17th-century temple in
the old town, known for its intricate murals and Chinese-influenced
architecture. Its historical significance parallels Nakhon Si
Thammarat’s Wat Phra Mahathat but is less grand, offering a quieter
alternative to Chiang Mai’s Wat Phra Singh. Address: Nakhon Nai Rd, Bo
Yang. Entry: Free.
Tang Kuan Hill and Songkhla Lighthouse: A 92-meter
hill accessible by a red funicular lift, offering panoramic views of
Songkhla Lake, the Gulf, and the city’s 1-kilometer-long peninsula. The
hilltop features a replica of Bangkok’s Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall, a
nod to Songkhla’s royal ties, akin to Hua Hin’s Klai Kangwon Palace. The
lighthouse below is a maritime landmark. Address: Laem Son On, Bo Yang.
Lift: 30 THB.
Songkhla Lake (Thale Sap): Southeast Asia’s largest
lagoon, spanning 1,040 square kilometers, offers boat tours to fishing
villages and birdwatching (e.g., migratory birds in winter). Its
ecological significance rivals Khon Kaen’s Bueng Kaen Nakhon but
surpasses Sukhothai’s limited natural sites. Tours: 500–1,500 THB.
Khao Kao Seng Beach: A serene beach 5 km south of Samila, known for its
rock formations and fishing village vibe. Less developed than Hua Hin’s
beaches or Hat Yai’s nearby Songkhla coast, it’s ideal for tranquility.
Entry: Free.
Songkhla Zoo and Waterpark: A family-friendly attraction
with animals, slides, and a wave pool, located near Khao Rup Chang Hill.
It’s less cultural than Chiang Rai’s Black House or Khon Kaen’s Dino
Water Park but a fun diversion. Entry: 100–300 THB.
Hub Ho Hin Red
Rice Mill: A restored 1917 rice mill in the old town, now a museum
showcasing Songkhla’s agricultural past. Its industrial heritage is
unique, unlike Ayutthaya’s royal focus or Chiang Mai’s artisan crafts.
Address: Nakhon Nok Rd, Bo Yang. Entry: 50 THB.
Hatyai-Songkhla
Floating Market (Khlong Hae, 25 km from Songkhla): A weekend market
where vendors sell food from boats, offering southern dishes like khao
yam. Smaller than Bangkok’s floating markets but more authentic than Hat
Yai’s urban markets. Entry: Free; tuk-tuk from Songkhla: 100–200 THB.
Songkhla’s culture is a vibrant tapestry of Thai, Chinese, and Malay
influences, similar to Hat Yai’s multiculturalism but less
commercialized, and distinct from Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai’s Lanna
heritage, Khon Kaen’s Isan identity, Hua Hin’s royal polish, Sukhothai
and Ayutthaya’s Siamese roots, or Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Srivijaya
legacy. The Southern Thai dialect, infused with Malay loanwords, is
widely spoken, and the city’s Chinese community, centered in the old
town, drives festivals like Chinese New Year with dragon dances and
lanterns.
Buddhism dominates, with temples like Wat Matchimawat
hosting festivals, though Songkhla’s spiritual scene is less prominent
than Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Wat Phra Mahathat or Chiang Mai’s meditation
centers. The Songkhla Lantern Festival (November, coinciding with Loy
Krathong) illuminates the lake with floating lanterns, rivaling
Sukhothai’s spectacle but with a coastal twist. The Chak Phra Festival
(October) involves parading Buddha images, a southern tradition shared
with Nakhon Si Thammarat.
Songkhla’s cuisine reflects southern
Thai flavors, with spicy, seafood-heavy dishes like gaeng som (sour
curry), sataw pad kapi (stink bean stir-fry), and roti canai
(Malay-influenced flatbread), spicier than Hua Hin’s central Thai fare
but milder than Khon Kaen’s Isan laap. The old town’s street food,
including khanom jeen (rice noodles with curry), is a highlight,
comparable to Hat Yai’s Bovorn Bazaar but less crowded.
Songkhla
is a hub for southern arts, particularly nang talung (shadow puppetry),
shared with Nakhon Si Thammarat, and rong ngeng (southern folk music),
less prominent than Khon Kaen’s mor lam or Chiang Mai’s khon dance. The
city’s Sino-Portuguese architecture and street art add a modern cultural
layer, akin to Chiang Rai’s contemporary art scene but rooted in
historical trade.
Songkhla is a mid-sized city with a relaxed, coastal vibe, less urban
than Hat Yai or Khon Kaen, less touristy than Hua Hin, and more
developed than Sukhothai or Chiang Rai’s rural outskirts. Its economy
relies on fishing, agriculture (rubber, rice), tourism, and education,
with Thaksin University and Rajamangala University fostering a youthful
atmosphere, similar to Khon Kaen’s university-driven energy. The city’s
port, one of Thailand’s largest, supports trade with Malaysia, though
less significant than Hat Yai’s cross-border commerce.
Infrastructure includes modern malls like Ocean Shopping Town and
Lotus’s, smaller than Hat Yai’s CentralFestival but sufficient for
locals. Songkhla’s railway station connects to Bangkok (14–16 hours,
600–1,200 THB) and Hat Yai (30 minutes, 20–50 THB), while buses link to
Hua Hin (10–12 hours, 600–1,000 THB), Khon Kaen (16–18 hours), and
Nakhon Si Thammarat (2 hours, 100–200 THB). The nearest airport, Hat Yai
International, is 45 minutes away, unlike Sukhothai’s dedicated airport
or Chiang Mai’s major hub.
Nightlife is low-key, with beachfront
bars at Samila, old town cafes, and live music venues along Nakhon Nai
Road, quieter than Hat Yai’s Prachasamran Road or Chiang Mai’s
Nimmanhaemin but livelier than Sukhothai’s riverside eateries. The
expatriate community, smaller than Hua Hin’s, supports international
restaurants and guesthouses, particularly near the old town.
Best Time to Visit: November to February, with mild weather (20–30°C)
ideal for beaches and old town walks. March to May is hot (35–40°C), and
June to October brings rain, enhancing Songkhla Lake’s scenery but
complicating outdoor sites. The Lantern Festival (November) is a
highlight.
Getting There: Use Hat Yai International Airport (45
minutes, taxi: 300–500 THB) with flights from Bangkok (1.5 hours,
1,000–3,000 THB) or Chiang Mai (2 hours). Trains from Bangkok to
Songkhla (14–16 hours, 600–1,200 THB) or buses from Bangkok (12–14
hours, 600–1,200 THB), Hua Hin (10–12 hours), Khon Kaen (16–18 hours),
Sukhothai (via Bangkok, 18–20 hours), or Nakhon Si Thammarat (2 hours)
are accessible. From Chiang Rai, buses via Bangkok take 20–24 hours
(1,500–2,000 THB).
Getting Around: Songkhla’s compact old town and
Samila Beach are walkable. Songthaews (20–50 THB) and tuk-tuks (50–100
THB) cover the city; Grab is available. Rent scooters (200–300 THB/day)
or cars (1,000–1,500 THB/day) for Khao Kao Seng or Hat Yai’s floating
market. Bicycles (50–100 THB/day) suit the old town, unlike Hat Yai’s
urban sprawl or Ayutthaya’s spread-out ruins.
Accommodation: Budget
guesthouses (300–600 THB/night) like Songkhla Tae Raek Antique Hotel are
in the old town. Mid-range hotels like BP Samila Beach Hotel
(1,000–2,000 THB) offer beachfront views, while luxury resorts like The
Bed Songkhla (2,500–5,000 THB) provide comfort. Book near Samila or the
old town, unlike Sukhothai’s park proximity or Hua Hin’s resort focus.
Dress Code and Etiquette: Modest attire for temples (cover shoulders and
knees); avoid touching sacred objects, similar to Ayutthaya or Nakhon Si
Thammarat’s etiquette. Respect Malay-Muslim customs in mixed areas, like
Hat Yai’s halal-friendly vibe. Bargain politely at markets.
Costs:
Most attractions are free; museums and zoos cost 50–100 THB. Street food
is 30–60 THB, restaurant meals 100–300 THB. A daily budget of 800–1,500
THB suits mid-range travelers, cheaper than Hua Hin but similar to Khon
Kaen or Nakhon Si Thammarat.
Songkhla faces environmental challenges like coastal erosion at
Samila Beach, less severe than Hua Hin’s but requiring attention, and
occasional flooding during the rainy season, akin to Nakhon Si
Thammarat. Songkhla Lake’s ecosystem is threatened by agricultural
runoff, a concern shared with Khon Kaen’s Bueng Kaen Nakhon but less
critical than Chiang Rai’s seasonal smog. Preservation of the old town
and city wall is robust, with UNESCO nomination efforts mirroring Nakhon
Si Thammarat’s Wat Phra Mahathat, though funding lags behind Sukhothai
and Ayutthaya’s UNESCO sites.
Cultural commodification, such as
mass-produced nang talung souvenirs, is minimal compared to Khon Kaen’s
mor lam or Chiang Mai’s crafts, but the old town’s gentrification risks
pricing out locals, unlike Hat Yai’s market-driven economy. Sustainable
tourism, including lake eco-tours and old town walking guides, aligns
with Chiang Mai’s eco-initiatives, protecting Songkhla’s heritage from
overtourism seen in Hua Hin or Chiang Mai.
Songkhla is southern Thailand’s hidden treasure, where history, culture, and nature converge in a compact, authentic package. Its Sino-Portuguese old town, Golden Mermaid statue, and Songkhla Lake offer a unique blend of heritage and scenic beauty, distinct from the ancient grandeur of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya, the cultural richness of Chiang Mai, the artistic serenity of Chiang Rai, the commercial pulse of Hat Yai, the resort allure of Hua Hin, the Isan vitality of Khon Kaen, or the spiritual weight of Nakhon Si Thammarat. Whether wandering the old town’s colorful streets, savoring gaeng som by the beach, or gazing at the city from Tang Kuan Hill, visitors discover a destination that embodies southern Thailand’s warmth and diversity. Songkhla’s understated elegance and historical depth make it a must-visit for those seeking an authentic, less-touristed Thai experience.