Hippodrome (At Meydani) (Istanbul)

 Hippodrome (At Meydani) (Istanbul)  

The Hippodrome of Constantinople, known today as Sultanahmet Square (Turkish: Sultanahmet Meydanı) in Istanbul, Turkey, is one of the most significant historical sites in the city. Originally the ceremonial and sporting heart of Byzantine Constantinople, it was a vast public arena where chariot races, political events, and social gatherings shaped the life of the capital. Though much of the original structure is no longer visible, the site retains several iconic monuments and continues to serve as a central public space in modern Istanbul.

 

Hippodrome (At Meydani) (Istanbul)  Hippodrome (At Meydani) (Istanbul)

Historical Background

The Hippodrome was first established in 203 CE during the reign of Roman Emperor Septimius Severus, who began developing Byzantium as a major city. However, it was significantly expanded and transformed under Constantine the Great after he made Constantinople the capital of the Roman Empire in 330 CE. Modeled after the Circus Maximus in Rome, the Hippodrome became the epicenter of public life in the Byzantine Empire, serving as a venue for chariot races, imperial ceremonies, public executions, and political demonstrations.

The Hippodrome was particularly vital during the Byzantine period (4th–15th centuries), hosting chariot races that were not just sporting events but also major social and political spectacles. The races were organized by factions known as the Blues and Greens, which represented different social and political groups. These factions wielded significant influence, and their rivalries sometimes erupted into violence, most notably during the Nika Riots of 532 CE. The riots, sparked by factional tensions, led to the destruction of much of Constantinople and the deaths of tens of thousands, with Emperor Justinian I nearly losing his throne before suppressing the uprising.

After the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453 CE, the Hippodrome lost its original function. The Ottomans referred to the area as At Meydanı ("Horse Square") and used it for festivals, fairs, and occasional sporting events. Over time, the site was built over, and its structures were dismantled or buried. Today, the area is a public square, but several surviving monuments from the Byzantine era make it a key historical and tourist site.

 

Architectural Features

The Hippodrome was a massive, U-shaped arena designed to accommodate tens of thousands of spectators. While little of the original structure remains, historical records and surviving elements provide insight into its design and layout.

Dimensions and Layout:
The Hippodrome measured approximately 450 meters long and 130 meters wide, making it one of the largest arenas of its kind in the ancient world.
It was oriented north-south, with a U-shaped track for chariot racing and a central raised platform called the spina, which was adorned with statues, obelisks, and monuments.
The arena could seat up to 100,000 spectators, with tiered seating (most of which has disappeared) arranged along the sides and the curved southern end.
At the northern end was the Kathisma, an imperial box where the emperor and court watched events, connected directly to the Great Palace of Constantinople.

Spina and Monuments:
The spina was the central barrier dividing the racetrack, decorated with lavish sculptures, columns, and obelisks, many of which were brought from across the empire to symbolize Constantinople’s power.
Three surviving monuments from the spina remain in situ today, forming the core of the Hippodrome’s historical legacy (described in detail below).
The spina also featured bronze statues, such as the Quadriga of Lysippus (a four-horse chariot group), which was looted during the Fourth Crusade in 1204 and taken to Venice, where it adorns St. Mark’s Basilica.

Entrances and Surroundings:
The Hippodrome had multiple gates for access, including ceremonial entrances for the emperor and competitors.
The surrounding area included palaces, churches, and public buildings, making the Hippodrome the heart of Constantinople’s civic life.

Construction Materials:
The structure was built using stone, brick, and marble, with the seating areas likely covered in marble or decorative stone, as was common in Roman and Byzantine architecture.
The track itself was made of packed earth or sand to provide traction for chariots.

 

Key Monuments of the Hippodrome

The surviving monuments in the Hippodrome are among Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks, each with its own historical and artistic significance. These are located along the former spina and are the primary remnants of the Byzantine arena.

Obelisk of Theodosius (Egyptian Obelisk):
Origin and Date: This red granite obelisk was originally erected in 1500 BCE by Pharaoh Thutmose III in Egypt, near the Temple of Karnak. It was transported to Constantinople by Emperor Theodosius I in 390 CE and erected in the Hippodrome.
Description: The obelisk stands 19.6 meters tall (originally taller, but the lower portion was damaged during transport). It is carved with hieroglyphs celebrating Thutmose III’s victories.
Base: The obelisk rests on a marble pedestal added by Theodosius, decorated with reliefs depicting the emperor, his court, and scenes of chariot races. The pedestal also describes the engineering feat of erecting the obelisk, which took 32 days.
Significance: The obelisk symbolized the continuity of imperial power, linking Constantinople to the ancient world.

Serpentine Column:
Origin and Date: This bronze column was created in 479 BCE by the Greeks to commemorate their victory over the Persians at the Battle of Plataea. It originally stood at the Oracle of Delphi and was brought to Constantinople by Constantine the Great in 324 CE.
Description: The column consists of three intertwined serpents, though the heads are missing (one fragment is in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum). It stands about 8 meters tall, though it was originally taller.
Significance: The column represents a trophy of Greek unity and victory, repurposed to glorify Constantinople. Its weathered appearance reflects its age and exposure to the elements.

Walled Obelisk (Constantine’s Obelisk):
Origin and Date: This stone obelisk was likely built or restored in the 10th century CE during the reign of Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus, though its exact origins are debated.
Description: The obelisk is 32 meters tall and made of roughly hewn stone blocks, originally clad in bronze plates inscribed with victory dedications. The plates were looted during the Fourth Crusade.
Significance: Though less ornate than the other monuments, it served as a marker of Byzantine imperial prestige and continuity.

 

Cultural and Symbolic Significance

The Hippodrome was far more than a racetrack; it was a stage for Byzantine society and politics:

Chariot Racing and Factionalism: Chariot races were the most popular entertainment in Constantinople, akin to modern sports spectacles. The Blues and Greens, supported by different social classes and political factions, turned races into proxy battles for influence. The emperor often aligned with one faction, making the Hippodrome a barometer of public sentiment.
Political Arena: The Hippodrome was where emperors addressed the public, distributed largesse, or faced protests. It was a space for dialogue—and sometimes confrontation—between rulers and citizens, as seen during the Nika Riots.
Symbol of Power: The spina’s monuments, drawn from Egypt, Greece, and Rome, showcased Constantinople’s role as the "New Rome" and heir to ancient civilizations.
Cultural Legacy: The Hippodrome influenced later public spaces in the Islamic and European worlds, with its model of a grand civic arena enduring in various forms.

 

Modern-Day Status

Today, the Hippodrome is no longer a distinct structure but a public square known as Sultanahmet Square, located in Istanbul’s historic district near the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. Its modern status includes:

Preservation and Appearance:
The original U-shaped track and seating are buried or built over, but the alignment of the square follows the Hippodrome’s footprint. Archaeological excavations have revealed portions of the foundations, visible in nearby museums or underground.
The three spina monuments (Obelisk of Theodosius, Serpentine Column, and Walled Obelisk) remain in their original positions, forming a historical spine through the square.
The area is landscaped with pathways, lawns, and benches, making it a popular gathering place for locals and tourists.

Tourist Attraction:
Sultanahmet Square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (as part of Istanbul’s historic areas), drawing millions of visitors annually for its historical significance and proximity to other landmarks.
Informational plaques near the monuments provide context, and guided tours often include the Hippodrome as part of broader Byzantine and Ottoman itineraries.
The square is free to visit, though nearby museums (e.g., Istanbul Archaeological Museum) charge admission for related artifacts.

Cultural Events:
The square hosts festivals, concerts, and public celebrations, especially during Ramadan and national holidays, echoing its historical role as a communal space.
The annual Istanbul Marathon and other events sometimes pass through or start in the square, connecting it to modern sporting traditions.

Challenges:
Heavy tourism and urban activity strain the site’s preservation, with the monuments exposed to pollution and weathering.
Ongoing archaeological work seeks to uncover more of the Hippodrome’s remains, but Istanbul’s dense urban fabric limits large-scale excavations.

 

Interesting Facts and Anecdotes

Nika Riots: During the 532 CE riots, the mob proclaimed a rival emperor in the Hippodrome, and Justinian’s brutal response (killing 30,000–40,000 people) cemented his authority but left a dark legacy.
Lost Treasures: The Fourth Crusade (1204) saw Crusaders loot many of the Hippodrome’s bronze statues, including the Quadriga, which was melted down or repurposed in Western Europe.
Sphendone: The curved southern end of the Hippodrome, known as the Sphendone, partially survives and can be seen in the Marmara University area, offering a glimpse of the original structure.
Modern Rediscovery: In the 19th and 20th centuries, European scholars and Ottoman authorities began studying the Hippodrome, leading to its recognition as a key Byzantine site.